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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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to  th< 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
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D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


D 
D 
D 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

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r^    Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 


Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

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Transparence 


Thei 
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Origii 
begin 
the  li 
sion, 
other 
first 
sion. 
or  illu 


r~pt  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
I      I    Pages  detached/ 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


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Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppidmentaires; 


Various  pagings.  Pages  365  &  366  folded. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  fiimd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

V 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
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Dana  Porter  Arts  Library 
University  of  Waterloo 

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conformit*  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  an 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  fiimis  en  commenqant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinta 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
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originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenqant  par  la 
pramidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmAs  d  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  fiimi  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  m^thode. 


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From  tlie  drawing  by  Pierre  Morand  made  November  12,  1842,  in  the  possession  ot 

Colonel  John  Jacob  Astor. 


JOHN   JACOB    ASTOR. 


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wil 


INTRODUCTION 


In  the  course  of  occasional  visits  to  Canada  many 
years  since,  I  became  intimately  acquainted  with  some 
of  the  principal  partners  of  the  great  Northwest  Fur 
Company,  who  at  that  time  lived  in  genial  style  at 
Montreal,  and  kept  almost  open  house  for  the  stranger. 
At  their  hospitable  boards  I  occasionally  met  with 
partners,  and  clerks,  and  hardy  fur  traders  from  the 
interior  posts;  men  who  had  passed  years  remote 
from  civilized  society,  among  distant  and  savage 
tribes,  and  who  had  wonders  to  recount  of  their  wide 
and  wild  peregrinations,  their  hunting  exploits,  and 
their  perilous  adventures  and  hair-breadth  escapes 
among  the  Indians.  I  was  at  an  age  when  imagination 
lends  its  coloring  to  everything,  and  the  stories  of  these 
Sinbads  of  the  wilderness  made  the  life  of  a  trapper 
and  fur  trader  perfect  romance  to  me.  I  even  medi- 
tated at  one  time  a  visit  to  the  remote  posts  of  the 
company  in  the  boats  whic;  annually  ascended  the 
lakes  and  rivers,  being  thereto  invited  by  one  of  the 
partners;  and  I  have  ever  since  regretted  that  I  was 
prevented  by  circumstances  from  carrying  my  inten- 
tion into  effect.  From  those  early  impressions,  the 
grand  enterprise  of  the  great  fur  companies,  and  the 
hazardous  errantry  of  their  associates  in  the  wild 
parts  of  our  vast  continent,  have  always  been  themes 
of  charmed  interest  to  me;  and  I  have  felt  anxious  to 
get  at  the  details  of  their  adventurous  expeditions 
among  the  savage  tribes  that  peopled  the  depths  of  the 
wilderness. 


VI 


INTRODUCTION 


About  two  years  ago,  not  long  after  my  return  from 
a  tour  upon  the  prairies  of  the  far  West,  I  had  a  con- 
versation with  my  friend,  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor, 
relative  to  that  portion  of  our  country,  and  to  the 
adventurous  traders  to  Santa  Fe  and  the  Columbia. 
This  led  him  to  advert  to  a  great  enterprise  set  on  foot 
and  conducted  tv  him,  between  twenty  and  thirty 
years  since,  having  for  its  object  to  carry  the  fur  trade 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  sweep  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific. 

Finding  that  I  took  an  interest  in  the  subject,  he 
expressed  a  regret  that  the  true  nature  and  extent  of 
his  enterprise  and  its  national  character  and  importance 
had  never  been  understood,  and  a  wish  that  I  would 
undertake  to  give  an  account  of  it.  The  suggestion 
struck  upon  the  chord  of  early  associations  already 
vibrating  in  my  mind.  It  occurred  to  me  that  a  work 
of  this  kind  might  comprise  a  variety  of  those  curious 
details,  so  interesting  to  me,  illustrative  of  the  fur 
trade;  of  its  remote  and  adventurous  enterprises,  and 
of  the  various  people,  and  tribes,  and  castes,  and  char- 
acters, civilized  and  savage,  affected  by  its  operations. 
The  journals,  and  letters,  also,  of  the  adventurers  by 
sea  and  land  employed  by  Mr.  Astor  in  his  compre- 
hensive project,  might  throw  light  upon  portions  of 
our  country  quite  out  of  the  track  of  ordinary  travel, 
and  as  yet  but  little  known.  I  therefore  felt  disposed 
to  undertake  the  task,  provided  documents  of  suffi- 
cient extent  and  minuteness  could  be  furnished  to  me. 
All  the  papers  relative  to  the  enterprise  was  accord- 
ingly submitted  to  my  inspection.  Among  them  were 
journals  and  letters  narrating  exp'^ditions  by  sea,  and 
journeys  to  and  fro  across  the  Focky  Mountains  by 
routes  before  untravelled,  together  with  documents 
illustrative  of  savage  and  colonial  life  on  the  borders 
of  the  Pacific.  With  such  material  in  hand,  I  under- 
took the  work.     The  trouble  of  rummaging  among 


INTRODUCTION 


vii 


business  papers,  and  of  collecting  and  collating  facts 
from  amidst  tedious  and  commonplace  details,  was 
spared  me  by  my  nephew,  Pierre  M.  Irving,  who  acted 
as  my  pioneer,  and  to  whom  I  am  greatly  indebted 
for  smoothing  my  path  and  lightening  my  labors. 

As  the  journals,  on  which  I  chiefly  depended,  had 
been  kept  by  men  of  business,  intent  upon  the  main 
object  of  the  enterprise,  and  but  little  versed  in  sci- 
ence, or  curious  about  matters  not  immediately  bearing 
upon  their  interests,  and  as  they  were  written  often 
in  moments  of  fatigue  or  hurry,  amid  the  inconven- 
iences of  wild  encampments,  they  were  often  meagre 
in  their  details,  furnishing  hints  to  provoke  rather 
than  narratives  to  satisfy  inquiry.  I  have,  therefore, 
availed  myself  occasionally  of  collateral  lights  supplied 
by  the  published  journals  of  other  travellers  who 
have  visited  the  scenes  described:  such  as  Messrs. 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  Bradbury,  Breckenridge,  Long, 
Franchere,  and  Ross  Cox,  and  make  a  general  ac- 
knowledgment of  aid  received  from  these  quarters. 

The  work  I  here  present  to  the  public,  is  necessarily 
of  a  rambling  and  somewhat  disjointed  nature,  com- 
prising various  expeditions  and  adventures  by  land 
and  sea.  The  facts,  however,  will  prove  to  be  linked 
and  banded  together  by  one  grand  scheme,  devised 
and  conducted  by  a  master  spirit ;  one  set  of  characters, 
also,  continues  throughout,  appearing  occasionally, 
though  sometimes  at  long  intervals,  and  the  whole  en- 
terprise winds  up  by  a  regular  catastrophe ;  so  that  the 
work,  without  any  labored  attempt  at  artificial  con- 
struction, actually  possesses  much  of  that  unity  so 
much  sought  after  in  works  of  fiction,  and  considered 
so  important  to  the  interest  of  every  history. 


R 


Fu 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I 


PAGE 


Objects  of  American  enterprise  —  gold  hunting  and  fur  trad- 
ing—  their  effect  on  colonization  —  early  French  Cana- 
dian settlers  —  Ottowa  and  Huron  hunters  —  an  Indian 
trading  camp  —  courieurs  des  bois,  or  rangers  of  the 
woods  —  their  roaming  life  —  their  revels  and  excesses  — 
licensed  traders  —  missionaries  —  trading  posts  —  primi- 
tive French  Canadian  merchant  —  his  establishment  and 
dependents  —  British  Canadian  fur  merchant  —  origin  of 
the  Northwest  Company  —  its  constitution  —  its  internal 
trade  —  a  candidate  for  the  company  —  privations  in  the 
wilderness  —  northwest  clerks  —  northwest  partners  —  a 
northwest  nabob  —  feudal  notions  in  the  forests  —  the 
lords  of  the  lakes  —  Fort  William  —  its  parliamentary 
hall  and  banqueting  room  —  wassailing  in  the  wilderness 


CHAPTER  n 

Rise  of  the  Mackinaw  Company  —  attempt  of  the  American 
government  to  counteract  foreign  influence  over  the  In- 
dian tribes  —  John  Jacob  Astor  —  his  birth-place  —  his 
arrival  in  the  United  States  —  what  first  turned  his  at- 
tention to  the  fur  trade  —  his  character,  enterprises,  and 
success  —  his  communications  with  the  American  govern- 
ment—  origin  of  the  American  Fur  Company  .... 


13 


CHAPTER   III 

Fur  trade  in  the  Pacific  —  American  coasting  voyages  —  Rus- 
sian enterprises  —  discovery  of  the  Columbia  River  — 
Carver's  project  to  found  a  settlement  there — Mackenzie's 
expedition — Lewis  and  Clarke's  journey  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains  —  Mr.  Astor's  grand  commercial  scheme  — 
his  correspondence  on  the  subject  with  Mr.  Jefferson  — 
his  negotiations  with  the  Northwest  Company  —  his  steps 
to  carry  his  scheme  into  effect 18 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  IV 


PAGE 


Two  expeditions  set  on  foot  —  the  Tonquin  and  her  crew  — 
Captain  Thorn,  his  character  —  the  partners  and  clerks 
—  Canadian  voyageurs,  their  habits,  employments,  dress, 
character,  songs  —  expedition  of  a  Canadian  boat  and  its 
crew  by  land  and  water  —  arrival  at  New  York  —  prepa- 
rations for  a  sea  voyage  —  northwest  braggarts  —  under- 
hand precautions  —  letter  of  instructions 31 


CHAPTER  V 

Sailing  of  the  Tonquin  —  a  rigid  commander  and  a  reckless 
crew  —  landsmen  on  shipboard  —  fresh  water  sailors  at 
sea  —  lubber  nests  —  ship  fare  —  a  Labrador  veteran  — 
literary  clerks  —  curious  travellers  —  Robinson  Crusoe's 
Island  —  quarterdeck  quarrels  —  Falkland  Islands  —  a 
wild-goose  chase  —  Port  Egmont  —  epitaph  hunting  — 
Old  Morality  —  penguin  shooting  —  sportsmen  left  in 
the  lurch  —  a  hard  pull  —  further  altercations  —  arrival 
at  Owyhee 39 


i  \ 


CHAPTER  VI 

Owyhee  —  Sandwich  Islanders  —  their  nautical  talents  —  Ta- 
maahmaah  —  his  navy  —  his  negotiations  —  views  of  Mr. 
Astor  with  respect  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  Karakakora 

—  royal  monopoly  of  pork  —  description  of  the  islanders 

—  gayeties  on  shore  —  chronicler  of  the  island —  place 
where  Captain  Cook  was  killed  —  John  Young,  a  nautical 
governor  —  his  story  —  Waititi  —  a  royal  residence  —  a 
royal  visit  —  grand  ceremonials  —  close  dealing  —  a  royal 
pork  merchant  —  grievances  of  a  matter-of-fact  man  .     . 


50 


CHAPTER  VII 

Departure   from  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  misunderstandings 

—  miseries  of  a  suspicious  man  —  arrival  at  the  Columbia 

—  dangerous  service  —  gloomy  apprehensions  —  bars  and 
breakers  —  perils  of  the  ship  —  disasters  of  a  boat's  crew 

—  burial  of  a  Sandwich  Islander 63 


CONTENTS 


XI 


CHAPTER  VIII 


PAGE 


Mouth  of  the  Columbia  —  the  native  tribes  —  their  fishing  — 
their  canoes  —  bold  navigators  —  equestrian  Indians  and 
piscatory  Indians,  difference  in  their  physical  organization 
—  search  for  a  trading  site  —  expedition  of  M'Dougal  and 
David  Stuart  —  Comcomly  the  one-eyed  chieftain  —  in- 
fluence of  wealth  in  savage  life  —  slavery  among  the  na- 
tives—  an  aristocracy  of  Flatheads  —  hospitality  among 
the  Chinooks  —  Comcomly's  daughter  —  her  conquest     .     71 

CHAPTER  IX 

Point  George  —  founding  of  Astoria  —  Indian  visitors  —  their 
reception  —  the  captain  taboos  the  ship  —  departure  of  the 
Tonquin  —  comments  on  the  conduct  of  Captain  Thorn  .     ^^ 


■I 


CHAPTER  X 

Disquieting  rumors  from  the  interior  —  reconnoitring  party  — 
preparations  for  a  trading  post  —  an  unexpected  arrival 
—  a  spy  in  the  camp  —  expedition  into  the  interior  — 
shores  of  the  Columbia  —  Mount  Coffin  —  Indian  Sepul- 
chre—  the  land  of  spirits  —  Columbian  valley  —  Vancou- 
ver's Point — falls  and  rapids  —  a  great  fishing  mart  — 
the  village  of  Wish-ram  —  difference  between  fishing  In- 
dians and  hunting  Indians  —  effects  of  habits  of  trade  on 
the  Indian  character  —  post  established  at  the  Oakinagan 

CHAPTER  XI 

Alarm  at  Astoria  —  rumor  of  Indian  hostilities  —  prepara- 
tions for  defence  —  tragical  fate  of  the  Tonquin    .     .     . 


81 


92 


CHAPTER  XII 

Gloom  at  Astoria  —  an  ingenious  stratagem  —  the  small-pox 
chief  —  launching  of  the  Dolly  —  an  arrival  —  a  Canadian 
trapper  —  a  freeman  of  the  forest  —  an  Iroquois  hunter 
—  winter  on  the  Columbia  —  festivities  of  New  Year  .     .  102 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Expedition  by  land  —  Wilson  P.  Hunt  —  his  character  — 
—  Donald  M'Kenzie  —  recruiting  service  among  the  voy- 
ageurs  —  a  bark  canoe  —  chapel  of  St.  Anne  —  votive  of- 


Il 


Xll 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


ferings  —  pious  carousals  —  a  ragged  regiment  —  Mack- 
inaw—  picture  of  a  trading  post  —  frolicking  voyageurs 

—  swells  and  swaggerers  —  Indian  coxcombs  —  a  man  of 
the  north  —  jockeyship  of  voyageurs  —  inefficacy  of  gold 

—  weight  of  a  feather  —  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks  —  his  char- 
acter—  his  risks  among  the  Indians  —  his  warning  con- 
cerning Sioux  and  Blackfeet  —  embarkation  of  recruits  — 
parting  scenes  between  brothers,  cousins,  wives,  sweet- 
hearts, and  pot  companions io8 


CHAPTER   XIV 

St.  Louis  —  its  situation  —  motley  population  —  French  Creole 
traders  and  their  dependents  —  Missouri  Fur  Company  — 
Mr.  Manuel  Lisa  —  Mississippi  boatmen  —  vagrant  In- 
dians—  Kentucky  hunters  —  old  French  mansion  —  fid- 
dling—  billiards  —  Mr.  Joseph  Miller  —  his  character  — 
recruits  —  voyage  up  the  Missouri  —  difficulties  of  the 
river  —  merits  of  Canadian  voyageurs  —  arrival  at  the 
Nodowa  —  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan  joins  the  party  —  John 
Day,  a  Virginia  hunter  —  description  of  him  —  Mr.  Hunt 
returns  to  St.  Louis 117 


CHAPTER  XV 

Opposition  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Company  —  Blackfeet  Indians 

—  Pierre  Dorion,  a  half-breed  interpreter  —  old  Dorion 
and  his  hybrid  progeny  —  family  quarrels  —  cross-pur- 
poses between  Dorion  and  Lisa  —  renegadoes  from  No- 
dowa—  perplexities  of  a  commander  —  Messrs.  Bradbury 
and  Nuttall  join  the  expedition  —  legal  embarrassments 
of  Pierre  Dorion  —  departure  from  St.  Louis  —  conjugal 
discipline  of  a  half-breed  —  annual  swelling  of  the  rivers 

—  Daniel  Boone,  the  patriarch  of  Kentucky  —  John  Colter 

—  his  adventures  among  the  Indians  —  rumors  of  danger 
ahead  —  Fort  Osage  —  an  Indian  war-feast  —  troubles  in 
the  Dorion  family  —  Buffaloes  and  turkey-buzzards    .     . 


124 


CHAPTER   XVI 

Return  of  spring — appearance  of  snakes  —  great  flights  of 
wild  pigeons  —  renewal  of  the  voyage  —  night  encamp- 
ments —  Platte  River  —  ceremonials  on  passing  it  —  signs 


CONTENTS 

of  Indian  war  parties  —  magnificent  prospect  at  Papillion 
Creek  —  desertion  of  two  hunters  —  an  irruption  into  the 
camp  of  Indian  desperadoes  —  village  of  the  Omahas  — 
anecdotes  of  the  tribe  —  feudal  wars  of  the  Indians  — 
story  of  Blackbird,  the  famous  Omaha  chief     .... 


Xlll 

PAGE 


138 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Rumors  of  danger  from  the  Sioux  Tetons  —  ruthless  char- 
acter of  those  savages  —  pirates  of  the  Missouri  —  their 
affair  with  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  —  a  trading  expedition 

brroken  up  —  M'Lellan's  vow  of  vengeance uneasiness 

in  the  camp  —  desertions  —  departure  from  the  Omaha 
village  —  meeting  with  Jones  and  Carson,  two  adventur- 
ous trappers  —  scientific  pursuits  of  Messrs.  Bradbury  and 
Nuttall  —  zeal  of  a  botanist  —  adventure  of  Mr.  Brad- 
bury with  a  Ponca  Indian  —  expedient  of  the  pocket  com- 
pass and  microscope  —  a  messenger  from  Lisa  —  motives 
for  pressing  forward 151 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Camp  gossip  —  deserters  —  recruits  —  Kentucky  hunters  —  a 
veteran  woodman  —  tidings  of  Mr.  Henry  —  danger  from 
the  Blackfeet  —  alteration  of  plans  —  scenery  of  the  river 

—  buffalo  roads  —  iron  ore  —  country  of  the  Sioux  —  a 
land  of  danger  —  apprehensions  of  the  voyageurs  —  In- 
dian  scouts  —  threatened  hostilities  —  a   council   of   war 

—  an  array  of  battle  —  a  parley  —  the  pipe  of  peace  — 
speech-making 160 


•     •  CHAPTER  XIX 

The  great  bend  of  the  Missouri  —  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  meet 
with  two  of  their  Indian  opponents  —  wanton  outrage  of 
a  white  man  the  cause  of  Indian  hostility  —  dangers  and 
precautions  —  an  Indian  war  party  —  dangerous  situation 
of  Mr.  Hunt  —  a  friendly  encampment  —  feasting  and 
dancing  —  approach  of  Manuel  Lisa  and  his  party  —  a 
grim  meeting  between  old  rivals  —  Pierre  Dorion  in  a 
fury  —  a  burst  of  chivalry    .     ; 170 


XIV 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XX 


PAGE 


Features  of  the  wilderness  —  herds  of  buffalo  —  antelopes  — 
their  varieties  and  habits — John  Day — his  hunting  strata- 
gem-^  interview  with  three  Arickaras  —  negotiations  be- 
tween the  rival  parties  —  the  Left-handed  and  the  Big 
Man,  two  Arickara  chiefs  —  Arickara  village  —  its  inhab- 
itants— ceremonials  on  landing — a  council  lodge — grand 
conference  —  speech  of  Lisa  —  negotiation  for  horses  — 
shrewd  suggestion  of  Gray  Eyes,  an  Arickara  chief  —  en- 
campment of  the  trading  parties 178 

CHAPTER  XXI 

An  Indian  horse  fair  —  love  of  the  Indians  for  horses  — 
scenes  in  the  Arickara  village  —  Indian  hospitality  — 
duties  of  Indian  women  —  game  habits  of  the  men  —  their 
indolence  —  love  of  gossiping  —  rumors  of  lurking  ene- 
mies—  scouts  —  an  alarm  —  a  sallying  forth  —  Indian 
dogs  —  return  of  a  horse-stealing  party  —  an  Indian  depu- 
tation —  fresh  alarms  —  return  of  a  successful  war  party 

—  dress    of    the    Arickaras  —  Indian    toilet  —  triumphal 
entry  of  the  war  party  —  meetings  of  relations  and  friends 

—  Indian  sensibility  —  meeting  of  a  wounded  warrior  and 

his  mother  —  festivities  and  lamentations 188 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Wilderness   of    the    Far   West  —  great   American    desert  — 

—  parched  seasons  —  Black  Hills  —  Rocky  Mountains  — 

—  wandering    and    predatory    hordes  —  speculations    on 
what  may  be  the  future  population — apprehended  dangers 

—  a  plot  to  desert  —  Rose  the  interpreter  —  his  sinister 
character  —  departure  from  the  Arickara  village     .     .      198 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Summer  weather  of  the  prairies  —  purity  of  the  atmosphere 
—  Canadians  on  the  march  —  sickness  in  the  camp  —  Big 
River  —  vulgar  nomenclature  —  suggestions  about  the 
original  Indians'  names  —  camp  of  Cheyennes  —  trade  for 
horses  —  character  of  the  Cheyennes  —  their  horseman- 
ship—  historical  anecdotes  of  the  tribe 203 


CONTENTS 


XV 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


PAGE 


New  distribution  of  horses  —  secret  information  of  treason 
in  the  camp  —  Rose  the  interpreter  —  his  perfidious  char- 
acter—  his  plots  —  anecdotes  of  the  Crow  Indians  —  no- 
torious horse-stealers  —  some  account  of  Rose  —  a  des- 
perado of  the  frontier 209 


CHAPTER  XXV 

Substitute  for  fuel  on  the  prairies  —  fossil  trees  —  fierceness 
of  the  buffaloes  when  in  heat  —  three  hunters  missing  — 
signal-fires  and  smokes  —  uneasiness  concerning  the  lost 
men — a  plan  to  forestall  a  rogue — new  arrangement  with 
Rose  —  return  of  the  wanderers 212 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

The  Black  Mountains  —  haunts  of  predatory  Indians  —  their 
wild  and  broken  appearance  —  superstitions  concerning 
them  —  thunder-spirits  —  singular  noises  in  the  mountains 

—  secret  mines  —  hidden  treasures  —  mountains  in  labor 

—  scientific  explanation — impassable  defiles — black-tailed 
deer  —  the  bighorn  or  ahsahta  —  prospect  from  a  lofty 
height  —  plain  with  herds  of  buffalo  —  distant  peaks  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  —  alarms  in  the  camp  —  tracks  of 
grizzly  bears  —  dangerous  nature  of  this  animal  —  adven- 
tures of  William  Cannon  and  John  Day  with  grizzly 
bears 217 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

Indian  trail  —  rough  mountain  travelling  —  sufferings  from 
hunger  and  thirst  —  Powder  River  —  game  in  abundance 

—  a  hunter's  paradise  —  mountain  peak  seen  at  a  great 
distance  —  one  of  the  Bighorn  chain  —  Rocky  Mountains 

—  extent  —  appearance  —  height  —  the  great  American 
desert  —  various  characteristics  of  the  mountains  —  In- 
dian   superstitions   concerning   them  —  land   of    souls  — 

—  towns  of  the  free  and  generous  spirits  —  happy  hunt- 
ing grounds 225 


XVI 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 


PAGE 


Region  of  the  Crow  Indians  —  scouts  on  the  look-out  —  visit 
from  a  crew  of  hard  riders  —  a  Crow  camp  —  presents 
to  the  Crow  chief  —  bargaining  —  Crow  bullies  —  Rose 
among  his  Indian  friends  —  parting  with  the  Crows  — 
perplexities  among  the  mountains  —  more  of  the  Crows 
—  equestrian  children  —  search  after  stragglers      .     .     .  230 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

Mountain  glens  —  wandering  band  of  savages  —  anecdotes  of 
Shoshonies  and  Flatheads  —  root  diggers  —  their  solitary 
lurking  habits  —  gnomes  of  the  mountains  —  Wind  River 
—  scarcity  of  food — alteration  of  route — the  Pilot  Knobs 
or  Tetons  —  branch  of  the  Colorado  —  hunting  camp  .     .  236 


CHAPTER  XXX 

A  plentiful  hunting  camp  —  Shoshonie  hunters  —  Hoback's 
River  —  Mad  River  —  encampment  near  the  Pilot  Knobs 
—  a  consultation  —  preparations  for  a  perilous  voyage     .  243 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

A  consultation  whether  to  proceed  by  land  or  water  —  prepa- 
rations for  boat  building  —  an  exploring  party  —  a  party 
of  trappers  detached  —  two  Snake  visitors  —  their  report 
concerning  the  river  —  confirmed  by  the  exploring  party 
—  Mad  River  abandoned  —  arrival  at  Henry's  Fort  —  de- 
tachment of  Robinson,  Hoback,  and  Rezner  to  trap  — 
Mr.  Miller  resolves  to  accompany  them  —  their  departure  247 


CHAPTER   XXXII 

Scanty  fare  —  a  mendicant  Snake  —  embarkation  on  Henry 
River  —  joy  of  the  voyageurs  —  arrival  at  Snake  River  — 
rapids  and  breakers  —  beginning  of  misfortunes  —  Snake 
encampments  —  parley  with  a  savage  —  a  second  disaster 
—  loss  of  a  boatman  —  the  Caldron  Linn 254 


CONTENTS 


xvu 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 


PAGE 


Gloomy  council  —  exploring  parties  —  discouraging  reports  — 
disastrous  experiment  —  detachments  in  quest  of  succor 

—  caches,  how  made  —  return  of  one  of  the  detachments 

—  unsuccessful  —  further  disappointments  —  the  Devil's 
Scuttle  Hole 260 

CHAPTER   XXXIV 

Determination  of  the  party  to  proceed  on  foot — dreary  deserts 
between  Snake  River  and  the  Columbia  —  distribution  of 
effects  preparatory  to  a  march  —  division  of  the  party  — 
rugged  march  along  the  river  —  wild  and  broken  scenery 

—  Shoshonies  —  alarm  of  a  Snake  encampment  —  inter- 
course with  the  Snakes  —  horse  dealing  —  value  of  a  tin 
kettle  —  sufferings  from  thirst  —  a  horse  reclaimed  —  for- 
titude of  an  Indian  woman  —  scarcity  of  food  —  dog's 
flesh  a  dainty  —  news  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  party  — 
painful  travelling  among  the  mountains  —  snow-storms  — 
a  dreary  mountain  prospect  —  a  bivouac  during  a  wintry 
night  —  return  to  the  river  bank 267 

CHAPTER  XXXV 

An  unexpected  meeting  —  navigation  in  a  skin  canoe  —  strange 
fears  of  suffering  men  —  hardships  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his 
comrades  —  tidings  of  M'Lellan  —  a  retrograde  march  — 
a  willow  raft  —  extreme  suffering  of  some  of  the  party  — 
illness  of  Mr.  Crooks  —  impatience  of  some  of  the  men  — 
necessity  of  leaving  the  laggards  behind 278 


*  CHAPTER  XXXVI 

Mr.  Hunt  overtakes  the  advanced  party  —  Pierre  Dorion,  and 
his  skeleton  horse  —  a  Shoshonie  camp  —  a  justifiable 
outrage  —  feasting  on  horse  flesh  —  Mr.  Crooks  brought 
to  the  camp  —  undertakes  to  relieve  his  men  —  the  skin 
ferry-boat  —  frenzy  of  Prevost  —  his  melancholy  fate  — 
enfeebled  state  of  John  Day  —  Mr.  Crooks  again  left  be- 
hind—  the  party  emerge  from  among  the  mountains  — 
interview  with  Shoshonies  —  a  guide  procured  to  conduct 
the  party  across  a  mountain  —  ferriage  across  Snake  River 


XVlll 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


—  reunion  with  Mr.  Crook's  men  —  final  departure  from 
the  river 283 

CHAPTER  XXXVII 

Departure  from  Snake  River  —  mountains  to  the  north  —  way- 
worn travellers  —  an  increase  of  the  Dorion  family  —  a 
camp  of  Shoshonies  —  a  New  Year  festival  among  the 
Snakes — a  wintry  march  through  the  mountains — a  sunny 
prospect,  and  milder  climate — Indian  horse-tracks — grassy 
valleys  —  a  camp  of  Sciatogas  —  joy  of  the  travellers  — 
dangers  of  abundance  —  habits  of  the  Sciatogas  —  fate  of 
Carriere  —  the  Umatalla  —  arrival  at  the  banks  of  the  Co- 
lumbia—  tidings  of  the  scattered  members  of  the  expedi- 
tion—  scenery  on  the  Columbia  —  tidings  of  Astoria  — 
arrival  at  the  falls 289 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII 

The  village  of  Wish-ram  —  roguery  of  the  inhabitants  —  their 
habitations  —  tidings  of  Astoria  —  of  the  Tonquin  massa- 
cre —  thieves  about  the  camp  —  a  band  of  braggarts  —  em- 
barkation—  arrival  at  Astoria  —  a  joyful  reception  —  old 
comrades  —  adventures  of  Reed,  M'Lellan,  and  M'Ken- 
zie  among  the  Snake  River  Mountains  —  rejoicing  at 
Astoria 300 

CHAPTER  XXXIX 

Scanty  fare  during  the  winter  —  a  poor  hunting  ground  — 
the  return  of  the  fishing  season  —  the  uthlecan  or  smelt  — 
its  qualities  —  vast  shoals  of  it  —  sturgeon  —  Indian  modes 
of  taking  it  —  the  salmon  —  different  species — nature  of 
the  country  about  the  coast  —  forests  and  forest  trees  — 
a  remarkable  flowering  vine  —  animals  —  birds  —  reptiles 

—  climate  west  of  the  mountains  —  mildness  of  the  tem- 
perature —  soil  of  the  coast  and  the  interior 308 


CHAPTER  XL 

Natives  in  the  neighborhood  of  Astoria  —  their  persons  and 
characteristics — causes  of  deformity — their  dress — their 
contempt  of  beards  —  ornaments  —  armor  and  weapons  — 
mode  of  flattening  the  head  —  extent  of  the  custom  — 
religious  belief  —  the  two  great  spirits  of  the  air  and  of 


CONTENTS 


XIX 


PAGE 


the  fire  —  priests  or  medicine  men  —  the  rival  idols  — 
polygamy  a  cause  of  greatness  —  petty  warfare  —  music, 
dancing,  gambling  —  thieving  a  virtue  —  keen  traders  — 
intrusive  habits  —  abhorrence  of  drunkenness  —  anecdote 
of  Comcomly 313 

CHAPTER  XLI 

Spring  arrangements  at  Astoria  —  various  expeditions  set  out 

—  the  Long  Narrows  —  pilfering  Indians  —  thievish  tribe 
at  Wish-ram  —  portage  at  the  falls  —  portage  by  moon- 
light—  an  attack,  a  rout,  and  a  robbery  —  Indian  cure  for 
cowardice — a  parley  and  compromise — the  dispatch  party 
turn  back  —  meet  Crooks  and  John  Day  —  their  sufferings 

—  Indian  perfidy  —  arrival  at  Astoria 321 


CHAPTER  XLII 

Comprehensive  views  —  to  supply  the  Russian  fur  establish- 
ment—  an  agent  sent  to  Russia  —  project  of  an  annual 
ship  —  the  Beaver  fitted  out  —  her  equipment  and  crew 
—  instructions  to  the  captain  —  the  Sandwich  Islands  — 
rumors  of  the  fate  of  the  Tonquin  —  precautions  on  reach- 
ing the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 


331 


CHAPTER  XLIII 

Active  operations  at  Astoria  —  various  expeditions  fitted  out 
—  Robert  Stuart  and  a  party  destined  for  New  York  — 
singular  conduct  of  John  Day  —  his  fate  —  piratical  pass 
and  hazardous  portage  —  rattlesnakes  —  their  abhorrence 
of  tobacco  —  arrival  among  the  Wallah-Wallahs  —  pur- 
chase of  horses  —  departure  of  Stuart  and  his  band  for 
the  mountains 336 


CHAPTER  XLIV 

Route  of  Mr.  Stuart  —  dreary  wilds —  thirsty  travelling  —  a 
grove  and  streamlet  —  the  Blue  Mountains  —  a  fertile 
plain  with  rivulets  —  sulphur  spring — route  along  Snake 
River  —  rumors  of  white  men  —  the  Snake  and  his  horse 
—  a  Snake  guide  —  a  midnight  decampment  —  unex- 
pected meeting  with  old  comrades  —  story  of  trappers' 
hardships  —  Salmon   Falls  —  a  great  fishery  —  mode  of 


XX 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


spearing  salmon  —  arrival  at  the  Caldron  Linn  —  state 
of  the  caches  —  new  resolution  of  the  three  Kentucky 
trappers 343 

•  '  CHAPTER  XLV 

The  Snake  ^iver  deserts  —  scanty  fare  —  bewildered  travel- 
lers—  prowling  Indians  —  a  giant  Crow  chief  —  a  buUey 
rebuked  —  Indian  signals  —  smoke  on  the  mountains  — 
Mad  River  —  an  alarm  —  an  Indian   foray  —  a  scamper 

—  a  rude  Indian  joke  —  a  sharp-shooter  balked  of  his 
shot 357 

CHAPTER   XLVI 

Travellers  unhorsed  —  pedestrian  preparations  —  prying  spies 
— bonfires  of  baggage — a  march  on  foot — rafting  a  river 

—  the  wounded  elk  —  Indian  trails  —  wilful  conduct  of 
Mr,  M'Lellan  —  grand  prospect  from  a  mountain  —  dis- 
tant craters  of  volcanoes  —  illness  of  Mr.  Crooks  .     .     .  365 


CHAPTER   XLVII 

Ben  Jones  and  a  grizzly  bear  —  rocky  heights  —  mountain  tor- 
rents—  traces  of  M'Lellan  —  volcanic  remains  —  mineral 
earths  —  peculiar  clay  for  pottery  —  dismal  plight  of 
M'Lellan  —  starvation  —  shocking  proposition  of  a  des- 
perate man  —  a  broken-down  bull  —  a  ravenous  meal  — 
Indian  graves  —  hospitable  Snakes  —  a  forlorn  alliance    . 


373 


CHAPTER  XLVIII 

Spanish  River  scenery  —  trail  of  Crow  Indians  —  a  snow- 
storm—  a  rousing  fire  and  a  buffalo  feast  —  a  plain  of 
salt — climbing  a  mountain  —  volcanic  summit  —  extin- 
guished crater  —  marine  shells  —  encampment  on  a  prairie 
—  successful  hunting  —  good  cheer  —  romantic  scenery  — 
rocky  defile  —  foaming  rapids  —  the  fiery  narrows  .     .     .  382 


CHAPTER  XLIX 

Wintry  storms  —  a  halt  and  council  —  cantonment  for  the 
winter  —  fine  hunting  country  —  game  of  the  mountains 
and    plains  —  successful    hunting  —  Mr.    Crooks    and    a 


CONTENTS 


XXI 

PAGE 


grizzly  bear  —  the  wigwam  —  bighorn  and  blacktails  — 
beef  and  venison  —  good  quarters  and  good  cheer  —  an 
alarm  —  an  intrusion  —  unwelcome  guests  —  desolation  of 
the  larder  —  gormandizing  exploits  of  hungry  savages  — 
good  quarters  abandoned 388 

CHAPTER   L 

Rough  wintry  travelling  —  hills  and  plains  —  snow  and  ice  — 
disappearance  of  game  —  a  vast  dreary  plain  —  a  second 
halt  for  the  winter  —  another  wigwam  —  New  Year's  feast 

—  buffalo  humps,  tongues,  and  marrow-bones  —  return  of 
spring  —  launch  of  canoes  —  bad  navigation  —  pedestrian 
march  —  vast  prairies  —  deserted  camps  —  Pawnee  squaws 
— an  Otto  Indian — news  of  war — voyage  down  the  Platte 
and  the  Missouri  —  reception  at  Fort  Osage  —  arrival  at 

St.  Louis 397 

CHAPTER  LI 

Agreement  between  Mr.  Astor  and  the  Russian  Fur  Company 

—  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  —  in- 
structions to  Captain  Sowle  of  the  Beaver  —  fitting  out 

of  the  Lark  —  news  of  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Stuart    .     .     .  404 

CHAPTER  LH 

Banks  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  —  departure  of  David  Stuart  for 
the  Oakinagan  —  Mr.  Clarke's  route  up  Lewis  River  — 
Chipunnish,  or  Pierced-nose  Indians  —  their  character,  ap- 
pearance, and  habits  —  thievish  habits  —  laying  up  of  the 
boats  —  post  at  Pointed  Heart  and  Spokan  Rivers  — 
M'Kenzie,  his  route  up  the  Camoenum  —  bands  of  travel- 
ling Indians  —  expedition  of  Reed  to  the  caches  —  adven- 
tures of  wandering  voyageurs  and  trappers 409 


CHAPTER  LIII 

Departure  of  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  Beaver  —  precautions  at  the  fac- 
tory—  detachment  to  the  Wollamut  —  gloomy  apprehen- 
sions—  arrival  of  M'Kenzie  —  affairs  at  the  Shahaptan  — 
news  of  war  —  dismay  of  M'Dougal  —  determination  to 
abandon  Astoria  —  departure  of  M'Kenzie  for  the  interior 


XXll 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


—  adventure  at  the  rapids  —  visit  to  the  ruffians  of  Wish- 
ram —  a  perilous  situation  —  meeting  with  M'Tavish  and 
his  party  —  arrival  at  the  Shahaptan  —  plundered  caches 

—  determination  of  the  wintering  partners  not  to  leave  the 
country  —  arrival  of  Clarke  among  the  Nez  Perces  —  the 
affair  of  the  silver  goblet  —  hanging  of  an  Indian  —  arri- 
val of  the  wintering  partners  at  Astoria 416 


CHAPTER  LIV 

The  partners  displeased  with  M'Dougal  —  equivocal  conduct 
of  that  gentleman  —  partners  agree  to  abandon  Astoria 
—  sale  of  goods  to  M'Tavish  —  arrangements  for  the 
year  —  manifesto  signed  by  the  partners  —  departure  of 
M'Tavish  for  the  interior 427 


CHAPTER  LV 

Anxieties  of  Mr.  Astor  —  memorial  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany—  tidings  of  a  British  naval  expedition  against  As- 
toria—  Mr.  Astor  applies  to  government  for  protection 
—  the  frigate  Adams  ordered  to  be  fitted  out  —  bright 
news  from  Astoria  —  sunshine  suddenly  overclouded  .     .  432 


CHAPTER  LVI 

Affairs  of  state  at  Astoria  —  M'Dougal  proposes  for  the  hand 
of  an  Indian  princess  —  matrimonial  embassy  to  Com- 
comly — matrimonial  notions  among  the  Chinooks — settle- 
ments and  pin-money  —  the  bringing  home  of  the  bride 
—  a  managing  father-in-law  —  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  at 
Astoria 434 


CHAPTER  LVII 

Voyage  of  the  Beaver  to  New  Archangel — a  Russian  governor 
—  roystering  rule  —  the  tyranny  of  the  table  —  hard  drink- 
ing bargains  —  voyage  to  Kamtschatka  —  seal-catching  es- 
tablishment at  St.  Paul's  —  storms  at  sea  —  Mr.  Hunt  left 
at  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  transactions  of  the  Beaver  at 
Canton  —  return  of  Mr.  Hunt  to  Astoria 438 


CONTENTS 


xxin 


CHAPTER  LVIII 


PAGE 


Arrangements  among  the  partners  —  Mr.  Hunt  sails  in  the 
Albatross  —  arrives  at  the  Marquesas  —  news  of  the  frig- 
ate Phnebc  — Mr.  Hunt  proceeds  to  the  Sandwich  Islands 
-^voyage  of  ^he  Lark — her  shipwreck — transactions  with 
the  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  —  conduct  of  Ta- 
maahmaah  446 


CHAPTER  LIX 

Arrival  of  MTavish  at  Astoria  —  conduct  of  his  followers  — 
—  negotiations  of  M'Dougal  and  M'Tavish  —  bargain  for 
the  transfer  of  Astoria  —  doubts  entertained  of  the  loy- 
alty of  M'Dougal 453 

CHAPTER  LX 

Arrival  of  a  strange  sail  —  agitation  at  Astoria  —  warlike 
offer  of  Comcomly  —  Astoria  taken  possession  of  by  the 
British  —  indignation  of  Comcomly  at  the  conduct  of  his 
son-in-law 458 

f 

CHAPTER  LXI 

Arrival  of  the  brig  Pedler  at  Astoria  —  breaking  up  of  the 
establishment  —  departure  of  several  of  the  company  — 
tragical  story  told  by  the  squaw  of  Pierre  Dorion  —  fate 
of  Reed  and  his  companions  —  attempts  of  Mr,  Astor  to 
renew  his  enterprise  —  disappointment  —  concluding  ob- 
servations and  reflections 463 


APPENDIX 

Draught  of  a  petition  to  Congress,  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  in  1812  .  474 

Letter  from  Mr.  Gallatin  to  Mr.  Astor 476 

Notices  of  the  present  state  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly  extracted 
from  an  article  published  in  Silliman's  Journal  for  Jan- 
uary, 1834 478 

Height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 483 

Suggestions  with  respect  to  the  Indian  tribes,  and  the  pro- 
tection of  our  Trade 484 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  I 

Two  leading  objects  of  commercial  gain  have  given 
birth  to  wide  and  daring  enterprise  in  the  early  history 
of  the  Americas;  the  precious  metals  of  the  South, 
and  the  rich  peltries  of  the  North.  While  the  fiery  and 
magnificent  Spaniard,  infiamed  with  the  mania  for 
gold,  has  extended  his  discoveries  and  conquests  over 
those  brilliant  countries  scorched  by  the  ardent  sun  of 
the  tropics,  the  adroit  and  buoyant  Frenchman,  and  the 
cool  and  calculating  Briton,  have  pursued  the  less  splen- 
did, but  no  less  lucrative,  traffic  in  furs  amidst  the 
hyperborean  regions  of  the  Canadas,  until  they  have 
advanced  even  within  the  Arctic  Circle. 

These  two  pursuits  have  thus  in  a  manner  been  the 
pioneers  and  precursors  of  civilization.  Without  paus- 
ing on  the  borders,  they  have  penetrated  at  once,  in  de- 
fiance of  difficulties  and  dangers,  to  the  heart  of  savage 
countries :  laying  open  the  hidden  secrets  of  the  wilder- 
ness; leading  the  way  to  remote  regions  of  beauty  and. 
fertility  that  might  have  remained  unexplored  for  ages, 
and  beckoning  after  them  the  slow  and  pausing  steps 
of  agriculture  and  civilization. 

It  was  the  fur  trade,  in  fact,  which  gave  early  sus- 
tenance and  vitality  to  the  great  Canadian  provinces. 
Being  destitute  of  the  precious  metals,  at  that  time  the 
leading  objects  of  American  enterprise,  they  were  long 
neglected  by  the  parent  country.  The  French  adven- 
turers, however,  w^ho  had  settled  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  soon  found  that  in  the  rich  peltries  of  the 


ASTORIA 


Hill 


interior,  they  had  sources  of  wealth  that  might  almost 
rival  the  mines  of  Mexico  and  Peru.  The  Indians,  as 
yet  unacquainted  with  the  artificial  value  given  to  some 
descriptions  of  furs,  in  civilized  life,  brought  quanti- 
ties of  the  most  precious  kinds  and  bartered  them  away 
for  European  trinkets  and  cheap  commodities.  Im- 
mense profits  were  thus  made  by  the  early  traders,  and 
the  traffic  was  pursued  with  avidity. 

As  the  valuable  furs  soon  became  scarce  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  settlements,  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity 
were  stimulated  to  take  a  wider  range  in  their  hunting 
expeditions ;  they  were  generally  accompanied  on  these 
expeditions  by  some  of  the  traders  or  their  dependents, 
who  shared  in  the  toils  and  perils  of  the  chase,  and  at 
the  same  time  made  themselves  acquainted  with  the 
best  hunting  and  trapping  grounds,  and  with  the  remote 
tribes,  whom  they  encouraged  to  bring  their  peltries 
to  the  settlements.  In  this  way  the  trade  augmented, 
and  was  drawn  from  remote  quarters  to  Montreal. 
Every  now  and  then  a  large  body  of  Ottawas,  Hurons, 
and  other  tribes  who  hunted  the  countries  bordering  on 
the  great  lakes,  would  come  down  in  a  squadron  of 
light  canoes,  laden  with  beaver  skins,  and  other  spoils 
of  their  year's  hunting.  The  canoes  would  be  unladen, 
taken  on  shore,  and  their  contents  disposed  in  order. 
A  camp  of  birch  bark  would  be  pitched  outside  of  the 
town,  and  a  kind  of  primitive  fair  opened  with  that 
grave  ceremonial  so  dear  to  the  Indians.  An  audience 
would  be  demanded  of  the  governor-general,  who 
would  hold  the  conference  with  becoming  state,  seated 
in  an  elbow-chair,  with  the  Indians  ranged  in  semi- 
circles before  him,  seated  on  the  ground,  and  silently 
smoking  their  pipes.  Speeches  would  be  made,  presents 
exchanged,  and  the  audience  would  break  up  in  univer- 
sal good-humor. 

Now  would  ensue  a  brisk  traffic  with  the  merchants, 
and  all  Montreal  would  be  alive  with  naked  Indians 


ASTORIA 


iniver- 


running  from  shop  to  shop,  bargaining  for  arms,  ket- 
tles, knives,  axes,  blankets,  bright-colored  cloths,  and 
other  articles  of  use  or  fancy;  upon  all  which,  says 
an  old  French  writer,  the  merchants  were  sure  to  clear 
at  least  two  hundred  per  cent.  There  was  no  money 
used  in  this  traffic,  and,  after  a  time,  all  payment  in 
spirituous  liquors  was  prohibited,  in  consequence  of 
the  frantic  and  frightful  excesses  and  bloody  brawls 
which  they  were  apt  to  occasion. 

Their  wants  and  caprices  being  supplied,  they  would 
take  leave  of  the  governor,  strike  their  tents,  launch 
their  canoes,  and  ply  their  way  up  the  Ottawa  to  the 
lakes. 

A  new  and  anomalous  class  of  men  gradually  grew 
out  of  this  trade.  These  were  called  courcurs  des  bois, 
rangers  of  the  woods ;  originally  men  who  had  accom- 
panied the  Indians  in  their  hunting  expeditions,  and 
made  themselves  acquainted  with  remote  tracts  and 
tribes;  and  who  now  became,  as  it  were,  peddlers  of 
the  wilderness.  These  men  would  set  out  from  Mon- 
treal with  canoes  well  stocked  with  goods,  with  arms 
and  ammunition,  and  would  make  their  way  up  the 
mazy  and  wandering  rivers  that  interlace  the  vast 
forests  of  the  Canadas,  coasting  the  most  remote  lakes, 
and  creating  new  wants  and  habitudes  among  the  na- 
tives. Sometimes  they  sojourned  for  months  among 
them,  assimilating  to  their  tastes  and  habits  with  the 
happy  facility  of  Frenchmen  adopting  in  some  degree 
the  Indian  dress,  and  not  unfrequently  taking  to  them- 
selves Indian  wives. 

Twelve,  fifteen,  eighteen  months  would  often  elapse 
without  any  tidings  of  them,  when  they  would  come 
sweeping  their  way  down  the  Ottawa  in  full  glee,  their 
canoes  laden  down  with  packs  of  beaver  skins.  Now 
came  their  turn  for  revelry  and  extravagance.  "  You 
would  be  amazed,"  says  an  old  writer  already  quoted, 
"  if  you  saw  how  lewd  these  peddlers  are  when  they 


\ 


4  ASTORIA 

return;  how  they  feast  and  game,  and  how  prodigal 
they  are,  not  only  in  their  clothes,  but  upon  their 
sweethearts.  Such  of  them  as  are  married  have  the 
wisdom  to  retire  to  their  own  houses ;  but  the  bachelors 
act  just  as  an  East  Indiaman  and  pirates  are  wont  to 
do;  for  they  lavish,  eat,  drink,  and  play  all  away  as 
long  as  the  goods  hold  out ;  and  when  these  are  gone, 
they  even  sell  their  embroidery,  their  lace,  and  their 
clothes.  This  done,  they  are  forced  upon  a  new  voy- 
age for  subsistence."  ^ 

Many  of  these  courcurs  dcs  hois  became  so  accus- 
tomed to  the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  the  perfect 
freedom  of  the  wilderness,  that  they  lost  all  relish  for 
civiHzation,  and  identified  themselves  with  the  savages 
among  whom  they  dwelt,  or  could  only  be  distinguished 
from  them  by  superior  licentiousness.  Their  conduct 
and  example  gradually  corrupted  the  natives,  and  im- 
peded the  works  of  the  Catholic  missionaries,  who  were 
at  this  time  prosecuting  their  pious  labors  in  the  wilds 
of  Canada. 

To  check  these  abuses,  and  to  protect  the  fur  trade 
from  various  irregularities  practised  by  these  loose  ad- 
venturers, an  order  was  issued  by  the  French  govern- 
ment prohibiting  all  persons,  on  pain  of  death,  from 
trading  into  the  interior  of  the  country  without  a 
license. 

These  licenses  were  granted  in  writing  by  the  gov- 
ernor-general, and  at  first  were  given  only  to  persons 
of  respectability;  to  gentlemen  of  broken  fortunes;  to 
old  officers  of  the  army  who  had  families  to  provide 
for;  or  to  their  widows.  Each  license  permitted  the 
fitting  out  of  two  large  canoes  with  merchandise  for 
the  lakes,  and  no  more  than  twenty-five  licenses  were 
to  be  issued  in  one  year.  By  degrees,  however,  private 
licenses  were  also  granted,  and  the  number  rapidly  in- 
creased.   Those  who  did  not  choose  to  fit  out  the  ex- 

*  La  Hontan,  v.  i.  let.  4. 


ASTORIA  S 

peditions  themselves,  were  permitted  to  sell  them  to  the 
merchants;  these  employed  the  courcurs  dcs  bois,  or 
rangers  of  the  woods,  to  undertake  the  long  voyages 
on  shares,  and  thus  the  abuses  of  the  old  system  were 
revived  and  continued.^ 

The  pious  missionaries,  employed  by  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church  to  convert  the  Indians,  did  everything 
in  their  power  to  counteract  the  profligacy  caused  and 
propagated  by  these  men  in  the  heart  of  the  wilder- 
ness. The  Catholic  chapel  might  often  be  seen  planted 
beside  the  trading  house,  and  its  spire  surmounted  by 
a  cross,  towering  from  the  midst  of  an  Indian  village, 
on  the  banks  of  a  river  or  a  lake.  The  missions  had 
often  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  simple  sons  of  the  for- 
est, but  had  little  power  over  the  renegades  from 
civilization. 

At  length  it  was  found  necessary  to  establish  forti- 
fied posts  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  and  the  lakes 
for  the  protection  of  the  trade,  and  the  restraint  of 
these  profligates  of  the  wilderness.  The  most  impor- 
tant of  these  was  at  Michilimackinac,  situated  at  the 
strait  of  the  same  name,  which  connects  Lakes  Huron 


*  The  following  are  the  terms  on  which  these  expeditions  were 
commonly  undertaken.  The  merchant  holding  the  license  would 
fit  out  the  two  canoes  with  a  thousand  crowns  worth  of  goods, 
and  put  them  under  the  conduct  of  six  coureurs  des  bois,  to  whom 
the  goods  were  charged  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  per  cent,  above  the 
ready  money  price  in  the  colony.  The  coureurs  des  bois,  in  their 
turn,  dealt  so  sharply  with  the  savages,  that  they  generally  re- 
turned, at  the  end  of  a  year  or  so,  with  four  canoes  well  laden, 
so  as  to  insure  a  clear  profit  of  seven  hundred  per  cent.,  insomuch 
that  the  thousand  crowns  invested,  produced  eight  thousand.  Of 
this  extravagant  profit  the  merchant  had  the  lion's  share.  In  the 
first  place  he  would  set  aside  six  hundred  crowns  for  the  cost 
of  his  license,  then  a  thousand  crowns  for  the  cost  of  the  origi- 
nal merchandise.  This  would  leave  six  thousand  four  hundred 
crowns,  from  which  he  would  take  forty  per  cent.,  for  bottomry, 
amounting  to  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty  crowns.  The 
residue  would  be  equally  divided  among  the  six  wood  rangers, 
who  would  thus  receive  little  more  than  six  hundred  crowns  for 
all  their  toils  and  perils. 


If 


ASTORIA 


m 


II 


and  Michigan.  It  became  the  great  interior  mart  and 
place  of  deposit,  and  some  of  the  regular  merchants 
who  prosecuted  the  trade  in  person,  under  their  licenses, 
formed  establishments  here.  This,  too,  was  a  rendez- 
vous for  the  rangers  of  the  woods,  as  well  those  who 
came  up  with  goods  from  Montreal  as  those  who  re- 
turned with  peltries  from  the  interior.  Here  new  ex- 
peditions were  fitted  out  and  took  their  deparcure  for 
Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi;  Lake  Superior 
and  the  Northwest ;  and  here  the  peltries  brought  in 
return  were  embarked  for  Montreal. 

The  French  merchant  at  his  trading  post,  in  these 
primitive  days  of  Canada,  was  a  kind  of  commercial 
patriarch.  With  the  lax  habits  and  easy  familiarity  of 
his  race,  he  had  a  little  world  of  self-indulgence  and 
misrule  around  him.  He  had  his  clerks,  canoe  men, 
and  retainers  of  all  kinds,  who  lived  with  him  on  terms 
of  perfect  sociability,  always  calling  him  by  his  Chris- 
tian name;  he  had  his  harem  of  Indian  beauties,  and 
his  troop  of  half-breed  children ;  nor  was  there  ever 
wanting  a  louting  train  of  Indians,  hanging  about  the 
establishment,  eating  and  drinking  at  his  expense  in  the 
intervals  of  their  hunting  expeditions. 

The  Canadian  traders,  for  a  long  time,  had  trouble- 
some competitors  in  the  British  merchants  of  New 
York,  who  inveigled  the  Indian  hunters  and  the  con- 
reurs  des  hois  to  their  posts,  and  traded  with  them  on 
more  favorable  terms.  A  still  more  formidable  opposi- 
tion was  organized  in  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
chartered  by  Charles  II.,  in  1670,  with  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  establishing  trading  houses  on  the  shores 
of  that  bay  and  its  tributary  rivers ;  a  privilege  which 
they  have  maintained  to  the  present  day.  Between  this 
British  company  and  the  French  merchants  of  Canada, 
feuds  and  contests  arose  about  alle-;ed  infringements 
of  territorial  limits,  and  acts  of  violence  and  bloodshed 
occurred  between  their  agents. 


ASTORIA 


In  1762,  the  French  lost  possession  of  Canada,  and 
the  trade  fell  principally  into  the  hands  of  British  sub- 
jects. For  a  time,  however,  it  shrunk  within  narrow 
limits.  The  old  coiirciirs  dcs  hois  were  broken  up  and 
dispersed,  or,  where  they  could  be  met  with,  were  slow 
to  accustom  themselves  to  the  habits  and  manners  of 
their  British  employers.  They  missed  the  freedom,  in- 
dulgence, and  familiarity  of  the  old  French  trading 
houses,  and  did  not  relish  the  sober  exactness,  reserve, 
and  method  of  the  new-comers.  The  British  traders, 
too,  were  ignorant  of  the  country,  and  distrustful  of 
the  natives.  They  had  reason  to  be  so.  The  treacher- 
ous and  bloody  affairs  of  Detroit  and  Michilimackinac 
showed  them  the  lurking  hostility  cherished  by  the 
savages,  who  had  too  long  been  taught  by  the  French 
to  regard  them  as  enemies. 

It  was  not  until  the  year  1766,  that  the  trade  re- 
gained its  old  channels ;  but  it  was  then  pursued  with 
much  avidity  and  emulation  by  individual  merchants, 
and  soon  transcended  its  former  bounds.  Expeditions 
were  fitted  out  by  various  persons  from  Montreal 
and  Michilimackinac,  and  rivalships  and  jealousies  of 
course  ensued.  The  trade  was  injured  by  their  artifices 
to  outbid  and  undermine  each  other ;  the  Indians  were 
debauched  by  the  sale  of  spirituous  liquors,  which  had 
been  prohibited  under  the  French  rule.  Scenes  of 
drunkenness,  brutality,  and  brawl  were  the  consequence, 
in  the  Indian  villages  and  around  the  trading  houses ; 
while  bloody  feuds  took  place  between  rival  trading 
parties  when  they  happened  to  encounter  each  other  in 
the  lawless  depths  of  the  wilderness. 

To  put  an  end  to  these  sordid  and  ruinous  conten- 
tions, several  of  the  principal  merchants  of  Montreal 
entered  into  a  partnership  in  the  winter  of  1783,  which 
was  augmented  by  amalgamation  with  a  rival  com- 
pany in  1787.  Thus  was  created  the  famous  "  North- 
west Company,"  which  for  a  time  held  a  lordly  sway 


I 


m 


8 


ASTORIA 


over  the  wintry  lakes  and  boundless  forests  of  the 
Canadas,  almost  equal  to  that  of  the  I-^ast  India  Com- 
pany over  the  voluptuous  climes  and  magnificent  realms 
of  the  Orient. 

The  company  consisted  of  twenty-three  shareholders, 
or  partners,  but  held  in  its  employ  about  two  thousand 
persons  as  clerks,  guides,  interpreters,  and  "  voyageurs," 
or  boatmen.  These  were  distributed  at  various  trad- 
ing posts,  established  far  and  wide  on  the  interior 
lakes  and  rivers,  at  immense  distances  from  each  other, 
and  in  the  heart  of  trackless  countries  and  savage 
tribes. 

Several  of  the  partners  resided  in  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  to  manage  the  main  concerns  of  the  company. 
These  were  called  agents,  and  were  personages  of  great 
weight  and  importance;  the  other  partners  took  their 
stations  at  the  interior  posts,  where  they  remained 
throughout  the  winter,  to  superintend  the  intercourse 
with  the  various  tribes  of  Indians.  They  were  thence 
called  wintering  partners. 

The  goods  destined  for  this  wide  and  wandering 
traffic  were  put  up  at  the  warehouses  of  the  company 
in  Montreal,  and  conveyed  in  batteaux,  or  boats  and 
canoes,  up  the  river  Attawa,  or  Ottowa,  which  falls 
into  the  St.  Lawrence  near  Montreal,  and  by  other 
rivers  and  portages,  to  Lake  Nipising,  Lake  Huron, 
Lake  Superior,  and  thence,  by  several  chains  of  great 
and  small  lakes,  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  Lake  Athabasca, 
and  the  Great  Slave  Lake.  This  singular  and  beauti- 
ful system  of  internal  seas,  which  renders  an  immense 
region  of  wilderness  so  accessible  to  the  frail  bark  of 
the  Indian  or  the  trader,  was  studded  by  the  remote 
posts  of  the  company,  where  they  carried  on  their 
traffic  with  the  surrounding  tribes. 

The  company,  as  we  have  shown,  was  at  first  a  spon- 
taneous association  of  merchants ;  but,  after  it  had  been 
regularly  organized,  admission  into  it  became  extremely 


ASTORIA 


difficult.  A  candidate  had  to  enter,  as  it  were,  "  before 
the  mast,"  to  undergo  a  long  probation,  and  to  rise 
slowly  by  his  merits  and  services.  He  began,  at  an 
early  age,  as  a  clerk,  and  served  an  apprenticeship  of 
seven  years,  for  which  he  received  one  hundred  pounds 
sterling,  was  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  com- 
pany, and  furnished  with  suitable  clothing  and  equip- 
ments. His  probation  was  generally  passed  at  the  in- 
terior trading  posts ;  removed  for  years  from  civilized 
society,  leading  a  life  almost  as  wild  and  precarious  as 
the  savages  around  him ;  exposed  to  the  severities  of 
a  northern  winter,  often  suffering  from  a  scarcity  of 
food,  and  sometimes  destitute  for  a  long  time  of  both 
bread  and  salt.  When  his  apprenticeship  had  expired, 
he  received  a  salary  according  to  his  deserts,  varying 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds  sterling, 
and  was  now  eligible  to  the  great  object  of  his  ambi- 
tion, a  partnership  in  the  company ;  thougji  years  might 
yet  elapse  before  he  attained  to  that  enviable  station. 

Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  men  of  good  families, 
from  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  characterized  by  the 
perseverance,  thrift,  and  fidelity  of  their  country,  and 
fitted  by  their  native  hardihood  to  encounter  the  rigor- 
ous climate  of  the  North,  and  to  endure  the  trials  and 
privations  of  their  lot ;  though  it  must  not  be  concealed 
that  the  constitutions  of  many  of  them  became  im- 
paired by  the  hardships  of  the  wilderness,  and  their 
stomachs  injured  by  occasional  famishing,  and  especi- 
ally by  the  want  of  bread  and  salt.  Now  and  then,  at 
an  interval  of  years,  they  were  permitted  to  come  down 
on  a  visit  to  the  establishment  at  Montreal,  to  recruit 
their  health,  and  to  have  a  taste  of  civilized  life;  and 
these  were  brilliant  spots  in  their  existence. 

As  to  the  principal  partners,  or  agents,  who  resided 
in  Montreal  and  Quebec,  they  formed  a  kind  of  com- 
mercial aristocracy,  living  in  lordly  and  hospitable 
style.     Their  early  associations  when  clerks  at  the  re- 


lO 


ASTORIA 


mote  trading  posts,  and  the  pleasures,  dangers,  ad- 
ventures, and  mishaps  which  they  had  shared  together 
in  their  wild  wood  hfe,  had  hnked  them  heartily  to  each 
other,  so  that  they  formed  a  convivial  fraternity.  Few 
travellers  that  have  visited  Canada  some  thirty  years 
since,  in  the  days  of  the  M'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays, 
the  M'Kenzies,  the  Frobishers,  and  the  other  magnates 
of  the  Northwest,  when  the  company  was  in  all  its 
glory,  but  must  remember  the  round  of  feasting  and 
revelry  kept  up  among  these  hyperborean  nabobs. 

Sometimes  one  or  two  partners,  recently  from  the  in- 
terior posts,  would  make  their  appearance  in  New 
York,  in  the  course  of  a  tour  of  pleasure  and  curiosity. 
On  these  occasions  there  was  always  a  degree  of  magni- 
ficence of  the  purse  al)oii':  them,  and  a  peculiar  propen- 
sity to  expenditure  at  the  goldsmith's  and  jeweller's  for 
rings,  chains,  brooches,  necklaces,  jewelled  watches,  and 
other  rich  triijkets,  partly  for  their  own  wear,  partly  for 
presents  to  their  female  acquaintances;  a  gorgeous 
prodigality,  such  as  was  often  to  be  noticed  in  former 
times  in  Southern  planters  and  West  India  Creoles, 
when  flush  wth  the  profits  of  their  plantations. 

To  behold  the  Northwest  Company  in  all  its  state 
and  grandeur,  however,  it  was  necessary  to  witness  an 
annual  gathering  at  the  great  interior  place  of  con- 
ference established  at  Fort  William,  near  what  is 
called  the  Grand  Portage,  on  Lake  Superior.  Here 
two  or  three  of  the  leading  partners  from  Montreal 
proceeded  once  a  year  to  meet  the  partners  from  the 
various  trading  posts  of  the  wilderness,  to  discuss  the 
affairs  of  the  company  during  the  preceding  year,  and 
to  arrange  plans  for  the  future. 

On  these  occasions  might  be  seen  the  change  since  the 
unceremonious  times  of  the  old  French  traders;  now 
the  aristocratical  character  of  the  Briton  shone  forth 
magnificently,  or  rather  the  feudal  spirit  of  the  High- 
lander.   Every  partner  who  had  charge  of  an  interior 


AS  COHiA 


Hi 


dangers,  ad- 
ared  together 
jartily  to  each 
ternity.  Few 
;  thirty  years 
M'GilUvrays, 
her  magnates 
vas  in  all  its 
feasting  and 
.n  nabobs. 
y  from  the  in- 
mce  in  New 
and  curiosity, 
ree  of  magni- 
culiar  propen- 
jeweller's  for 
1  watches,  and 
par,  partly  for 
a  gorgeous 
ced  in  former 
India  Creoles, 
Ltions. 

n  all  its  state 
to  witness  an 
place  of  con- 
lear  what  is 
Derior.  Here 
om  Montreal 
lers  from  the 
to  discuss  the 
ing  year,  and 

ange  since  the 
traders;  now 
1  shone  forth 
of  the  High- 
Df  an  interior 


post,  and  a  score  of  retaiii'^rs  at  hi  comnvind,  felt  lik<. 
the  chieftain  of  a  Highland  clan,  and  \\  alnK  as 
important  in  the  eyes  of  his  dependents  >  of  hi  r>elf. 
To  him  a  visit  to  the  grand  conference  at  <)rt  W  iiliam 
was  a  most  important  event,  and  he  rei)aire(l  there  as 
to  a  meeting  of  parliament. 

Tile  partners  from  Montreal,  however,  were  the 
lords  of  the  ascendant;  coming  from  the  midst  of 
luxurious  and  ostentatious  life,  they  quite  eclipsed  their 
compeers  from  the  woods,  whose  forms  and  faces  had 
been  l)attered  and  hardened  by  hard  living  and  hard 
service,  and  whose  garments  and  equipments  were  all 
the  worse  for  wear.  Indeed,  the  partners  from  below 
considered  the  whole  dignity  of  the  company  as  repre- 
sented in  their  persons,  and  conducted  themselves  in 
suitable  style.  They  ascended  the  rivers  in  great  state, 
like  sovereigns  making  a  progress,  or  rather  like  High- 
land chieftains  navigating  their  subject  lakes.  They 
were  wrapped  in  rich  furs,  their  huge  canoes  freighted 
with  every  convenience  and  luxury,  and  manned  by 
Canadian  voyageurs,  as  obedient  as  Highland  clans- 
men. They  carried  up  with  them  cooks  and  bakers, 
together  with  delicacies  of  every  kind,  and  abundance 
of  choice  wines  for  the  banquets  which  attended  this 
great  convocation.  Happy  were  they,  too,  if  they  could 
meet  with  some  distinguished  stranger ;  above  all,  some 
titled  member  of  the  British  nobility,  to  accompany 
them  on  this  stately  occasion,  and  grace  their  high 
solemnities. 

Fort  William,  the  scene  of  this  important  annual 
meeting,  was  a  considerable  village  on  the  banks  of 
Lake  Superior.  Here,  in  an  immense  wooden  building, 
was  the  great  council  hall,  as  also  the  banqueting  cham- 
ber, decorated  with  Indian  arms  and  accoutrements, 
and  the  trophies  of  the  fur  trade.  The  house  swarmed 
at  this  time  with  traders  and  voyageurs,  some  from 
Montreal,  bound  to  the  interior  posts;   some  from  the 


V 


13 


ASTORIA 


interior  posts,  hound  to  Montreal.  The  councils  were 
held  in  great  state,  for  every  niemher  felt  as  if  sitting- 
in  parliament,  and  every  retainer  and  dependent  looked 
up  to  the  assenihlage  with  awe,  as  to  the  House  of 
Lords.  There  was  a  vast  deal  of  solemn  deliheration, 
and  hard  Scottish  reasoning,  with  an  occasional  swell 
of  pompous  declamation. 

These  grave  and  weighty  councils  were  alternated 
by  huge  feasts  and  revels,  like  some  of  the  old  feasts 
descrihed  in  Highland  castles.  The  tahles  in  the  great 
banqueting  room  groaned  under  the  weight  of  game 
of  all  kinds ;  of  venison  from  the  woods,  and  fish  from 
the  lakes,  with  hunters'  delicacies,  such  as  buffaloes' 
tongues,  and  beavers'  tails,  and  various  luxuries  from 
Montreal,  all  served  up  by  experienced  cooks  brought 
for  the  purpose.  There  was  no  stint  of  generous  wine, 
for  it  was  a  hard-drinking  period,  a  time  of  loyal  toasts, 
and  bacchanalian  songs,  and  brimming  bumpers. 

While  the  chiefs  thus  revelled  in  hall,  and  made  the 
rafters  resound  with  bursts  of  loyalty  and  old  Scottish 
songs,  chanted  in  voices  cracked  and  sharpened  by  the 
northern  blast,  their  merriment  was  echoed  and  pro- 
longed by  a  mongrel  legion  of  retainers,  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  half-breeds,  Indian  hunters,  and  vagabond 
hangers-on  who  feasted  sumptuously  without  on  the 
crumbs  that  fell  from  their  table,  and  made  the  welkin 
ring  with  old  French  ditties,  mingled  with  Indian  yelps 
and  yellings. 

Such  was  the  Northwest  Company  in  its  powerful 
and  prosperous  days,  when  it  held  a  kind  of  feudal 
sway  over  a  vast  domain  of  lake  and  forest.  We  are 
dwelling  too  long,  perhaps,  upon  these  individual  pic- 
tures, endeared  to  us  by  the  associations  of  early  life, 
when,  as  yet  a  stripling  youth,  we  have  sat  at  the  hos- 
pitable boards  of  the  "  mighty  Northwesters,"  the  lords 
of  the  ascendant  at  Montreal,  and  gazed  with  wonder- 
ing and  inexperienced  eye  at  the  baronial  wassailing, 


.'A 


ASTORIA 


13 


:ils  were 
f  sitting 
It  looked 
louse  of 
beration, 
lal  swell 

Iternated 
Id  feasts 
the  great 
of  game 
ish  from 
niff  aloes' 
ies  from 
brought 
His  wine, 
al  toasts, 
ers. 

nade  the 
Scottish 
by  the 
and  pro- 
ian  voy- 
agabond 
t  on  the 
welkin 
ian  yelps 


:d 


f 


powerful 
feudal 
We  are 
lual  pic- 
irlv  life, 
the  hos- 
he  lords 
wonder- 
ssailing. 


and  listened  with  astonished  ear  to  their  talcs  of  hard- 
ships and  adventures.  It  is  one  object  of  our  task, 
however,  to  present  scenes  of  the  rough  life  of  the 
wilderness,  and  we  are  tempted  to  fix  these  few  me- 
morials of  a  transient  state  of  things  fast  passing  into 
oblivion;  —  for  the  feudal  state  of  Fort  William  is 
at  an  end ;  its  council  chamber  is  silent  and  deserted ; 
its  banquet  hall  no  longer  echoes  to  the  burst  of  loyalty, 
or  the  "  auld  world  "  ditty ;  the  lords  of  the  lakes  and 
forests  have  passed  away ;  and  the  hospitable  magnates 
of  Montreal  —  where  are  they? 


CHAPTER  II 

The  success  of  the  Northwest  Company  stimulated 
further  enterprise  in  this  opening  and  apparently 
boundless  field  of  profit.  The  traffic  of  that  company 
lay  principally  in  the  high  northern  latitudes,  while 
there  were  immense  regions  to  the  south  and  west, 
known  to  abound  with  valuable  peltries ;  but  which,  as 
yet,  had  been  but  little  explored  by  the  fur  trader.  A 
new  association  of  British  merchants  was  therefore 
formed,  to  prosecute  the  trade  in  this  direction.  The 
chief  factory  was  established  at  the  old  emporium  of 
Michilimackinac,  from  which  place  the  association  took 
its  name,  and  was  commonly  called  the  Mackinaw 
Company. 

While  the  Northwesters  continued  to  push  their  en- 
terprises into  the  hyperborean  regions  from  their 
stronghold  at  Fort  William,  and  to  hold  almost  sover- 
eign sway  over  the  tribes  of  the  upper  lakes  and  rivers, 
the  Mackinaw  Company  sent  forth  their  light  perogues, 
and  barks,  by  Green  Bay,  Fox  River,  and  the  Wiscon- 
sin, to  that  great  artery  of  the  West,  the  Mississippi; 
and  down  that  stream  to  all  its  tributary  rivers.  In 
this  way  they  hoped  soon  to  monopolize  the  trade  with 


14 


ASTORIA 


all  the  tribes  on  the  southern  and  western  waters,  and 
of  those  vast  tracts  comprised  in  ancient  Louisiana. 

The  government  of  the  United  States  began  to  view 
with  a  wary  eye  the  growing  influence  thus  acquired  by 
combinations  of  foreigners,  over  the  aboriginal  tribes 
inhabiting  its  territories,  and  endeavored  to  counteract 
it.  For  this  purpose,  as  early  as  1796,  the  government 
sent  out  agents  to  establish  rival  trading  houses  on  the 
frontier,  so  as  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  Indians,  to 
link  their  interests  and  feelings  with  those  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  United  States,  and  to  divert  this  important 
branch  of  trade  into  national  channels. 

The  expedient,  however,  was  unsuccessful,  as  most 
commercial  expedients  are  prone  to  be,  where  the  dull 
patronage  of  government  is  counted  upon  to  outvie  the 
keen  activity  of  private  enterprise.  What  government 
failed  to  effect,  however,  with  all  its  patronage  and  all 
its  agents,  was  at  length  brought  about  by  the  enter- 
prise and  perseverance  of  a  single  merchant,  one  of  its 
adopted  citizens ;  and  this  brings  us  to  speak  of  the  in- 
dividual whose  enterprise  is  the  especial  subject  of  the 
following  pages ;  a  man  whose  name  and  character  are 
worthy  of  being  enrolled  in  the  history  of  commerce,  as 
illustrating  its  noblest  aims  and  soundest  maxims.  A 
few  brief  anecdotes  of  his  early  life,  and  of  the  cir- 
cumstances which  first  determined  him  to  the  branch 
of  commerce  of  which  we  are  treating,  cannot  be  but 
interesting. 

John  Jacob  Astor,  the  individual  in  question,  was 
born  in  the  honest  little  German  village  of  Waldorf, 
near  Heidelberg,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine.  He  was 
brought  up  in  the  simplicity  of  rural  life,  but,  while  yet 
a  mere  stripling,  left  his  home,  and  launched  himself 
amid  the  busy  scenes  of  London,  having  had,  from  his 
very  boyhood,  a  singular  presentiment  that  he  would 
ultimately  arrive  at  great  fortune. 

At  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution  he  was  still 


ASTORIA 


15 


iters,  and 
lisiana. 
n  to  view 
quired  by 
rial  tribes 
ounteract 
vernment 
es  on  the 
idians,  to 
■  the  peo- 
mportant 

,  as  most 
2  the  dull 
)utvie  the 
vernment 
^e  and  all 
:he  enter- 
jne  of  its 

f  the  in- 
ct  of  the 
acter  are 
merce,  as 
xims.     A 

the  cir- 
branch 
Dt  be  but 

ion,  was 
^Valdorf, 

He  was 
while  yet 

himself 
from  his 
le  would 

was  still 


in  London,  and  scarce  on  the  threshold  of  active  life. 
An  elder  brother  had  been  for  some  few  years  resident 
in  the  United  States,  and  Mr.  Astor  determined  to  fol- 
low him,  and  to  seek  his  fortunes  in  the  rising  country. 
Investing  a  small  sum  which  he  had  amassed  since 
leaving  his  native  village,  in  merchandise  suited  to  the 
American  market,  he  embarked,  in  the  month  of  No- 
vember, 1783,  in  a  ship  bound  to  Baltimore,  and  ar- 
rived in  Hampton  Roads  in  the  month  of  January. 
Tlie  winter  was  extremely  severe,  and  the  ship,  with 
many  others,  was  detained  l)y  the  ice  in  and  about 
Chesapeake  Bay  for  nearly  three  months. 

During  this  period,  the  passengers  of  the  various 
ships  used  occasionally  to  go  on  shore,  and  mingle  so- 
ciably together.  In  this  way  Mr.  Astor  became  ac- 
quainted with  a  countryman  of  his,  a  furrier  by  trade. 
Having  had  a  previous  impression  that  this  might  be 
a  lucrative  trade  in  the  New  World,  he  made  many  in- 
quiries of  his  new  acquaintance  on  the  subject,  who 
cheerfully  gave  him  all  the  information  in  his  power 
as  to  the  quality  and  value  of  different  furs,  and  the 
mode  of  carrying  on  the  traffic.  He  subsequently  ac- 
companied him  to  New  York,  and,  by  his  advice,  Mr. 
Astor  was  induced  to  invest  the  proceeds  of  his  mer- 
chandise in  furs.  With  these  he  sailed  from  New  York 
to  London  in  1784,  disposed  of  them  advantageously, 
made  himself  further  acquainted  with  the  course  of  the 
trade,  and  returned  the  same  year  to  New  York,  with 
a  view  to  settle  in  the  United*  States. 

He  now  devoted  himself  to  the  brand,  of  commerce 
with  which  he  had  thus  casually  been  made  acquainted. 
He  began  his  career,  of  course,  on  the  narrowest  scale ; 
but  he  brought  to  the  task  a  persevering  industry, 
rigid  economy,  and  strict  integrity.  To  these  were 
added  an  aspiring  spirit  that  always  looked  upwards; 
a  genius  bold,  fertile,  and  expansive ;  a  sagacity  quick 
to  grasp  and  convert  every  circumstance  to  its  advan- 


I 


i6 


ASTORIA 


-;  ■ 


tage,  and  a  singular  and  never  wavering  confidence  of 
signal  success.^ 

As  yet,  trade  in  peltries  was  not  organized  in  the 
United  States,  and  could  not  be  said  to  form  a  regular 
line  of  business.  Furs  and  skins  were  casually  col- 
lected by  the  country  traders  in  their  dealings  with  the 
Indians  or  the  white  hunters,  but  the  main  supply  was 
derived  from  Canada.  As  Mr.  Astor's  means  in- 
creased, he  made  annual  visits  to  Montreal,  where  he 
purchased  furs  from  the  houses  at  that  place  engaged 
in  the  trade.  These  he  shipped  from  Canada  to  Lon- 
don, no  direct  trade  being  allowed  from  that  colony  to 
any  but  the  mother  country. 

In  1794  or  '95,  a  treaty  with  Great  Britain  removed 
the  restrictions  imposed  upon  the  trade  with  the  col- 
onies, and  opened  a  direct  commercial  intercourse  be- 
tween Canada  and  the  United  States.  Mr.  Astor  was 
in  London  at  the  time,  and  immediately  made  a  con- 
tract with  the  agents  of  the  Northwest  Company  for 
furs.  He  was  now  enabled  to  import  them  from  Mon- 
treal into  the  United  States  for  the  home  supply,  and 
to  be  shipped  thence  to  different  parts  of  Europe,  as 
well  as  to  China,  which  has  ever  been  the  best  market 
for  the  richest  and  finest  kinds  of  peltry. 

The  treaty  in  question  provided,  likewise,  that  the 
military  posts  occupied  by  the  British  within  the  ter- 
ritorial limits  of  the  United  States,  should  be  surren- 
dered. Accordingly,  Oswego,  Niagara,  Detroit,  Michi- 
limackinac,  and  other  posts  on  the  American  side  of 
the  lakes,  were  given  up.    An  opening  was  thus  made 

*  An  instance  of  this  buoyant  confidence,  which  no  doubt  aided 
to  produce  the  success  it  anticipated,  we  have  from  the  lips  of 
Mr.  A.  himself.  While  yet  almost  a  stranger  in  the  city,  and  in 
very  narrow  circumstances,  he  passed  by  where  a  row  of  houses 
had  just  been  erected  in  Broadway,  and  which,  from  the  superior 
style  of  their  architecture,  were  the  talk  and  boast  of  the  city. 
"  I  Ml  build,  one  day  or  other,  a  greater  house  than  any  of  these, 
in  this  very  street,"  said  he  to  himself.  He  has  accomplished  his 
prediction. 


1 


ASTORIA 


17 


dence  of 

d  in  the 
I  regular 
ally  col- 
vvith  the 
pply  was 
eans  in- 
vhere  he 
engaged 
to  Lon- 
olony  to 

removed 
the  col- 
urse  be- 
stor  was 
e  a  con- 
►any  for 
m  Mon- 
ply,  and 
ro]^)e,  as 
market 

lat  the 
the  ter- 
stirren- 
Michi- 
side  of 
is  made 

ibt  aided 
lips  of 
and  in 
f  houses 
superior 
the  city. 
)f  these, 
shed  his 


ii 


for  the  American  merchant  to  trade  on  the  confines  of 
Canada,  and  within  the  territories  of  the  United 
States.  After  an  interval  of  some  years,  about  1807, 
Mr.  Astor  embarked  in  this  trade  on  his  own  account. 
His  capital  and  resources  had  by  this  time  greatly 
augmented,  and  he  had  risen  from  small  beginnings  to 
take  his  place  among  the  first  merchants  and  financiers 
of  the  country.  His  genius  had  ever  been  in  advance 
of  his  circumstances,  prompting  hjm  to  new  and  wide 
fields  of  enterprise  beyond  the  scope  of  ordinary  mer- 
chants. With  all  his  enterprise  and  resources,  how- 
ever, lie  soon  found  the  power  and  influence  of  the 
Michilimackinac  (or  Mackinaw)  Company  too  great 
for  him,  having  engrossed  most  of  the  trade  within 
the  American  borders. 

A  plan  had  to  be  devised  to  enable  him  to  enter  into 
successful  competition.  He  was  aware  of  the  wish  of 
the  American  government,  already  stated,  that  the  fur 
trade  within  its  boundaries  should  be  in  the  hands  of 
American  citizens,  and  of  the  ineffectual  measures  it 
had  taken  to  accomplish  that  object.  He  now  offered, 
if  aided  and  protected  by  government,  to  turn  the 
whole  of  that  trade  into  American  channels.  He  was 
invited  to  unfold  his  plans  to  government,  and  they 
were  warmly  approved,  though  the  executive  could 
give  no  direct  aid. 

Thus  countenanced,  however,  he  obtained,  in  1809, 
a  charter  from  the  legislature  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  incorporating  a  company  under  the  name  of 
"  The  American  Fur  Company,"  with  a  capital  of  one 
million  of  dollars,  with  the  privilege  of  increasing  it  to 
two  millions.  The  capital  was  furnished  by  himself  — 
he,  in  fact,  constituted  the  company;  for,  though  he 
had  a  board  of  directors,  they  were  merely  nominal; 
the  whole  business  was  conducted  on  his  plans  and  with 
his  resources,  but  he  preferred  to  do  so  under  the  im- 
posing and  formidable  aspect  of  a  corporation,  rather 


f 


i8 


ASTORIA 


than  in  his  indivickial  name,  and  his  pohcy  was  saga- 
cious and  effective. 

As  the  Mackinaw  Company  still  continued  its  ri- 
valry, and  as  the  fur  trade  would  not  advantageously 
admit  of  competition,  he  made  a  new  arrangement  in 
1811,  by  which,  in  conjunction  with  certain  partners  of 
the  Northwest  Company,  and  other  persons  engaged  in 
the  fur  trade,  he  bought  out  the  Mackinaw  Company, 
and  merged  that  and  the  American  Fur  Company  into 
a  new  association,  to  be  called  the  "'  Southwest  Com- 
pany." This  he  likewise  did  with  the  privity  and  ap- 
probation of  the  American  government. 

By  this  arrangement  Mr.  Astor  became  proprietor 
of  one  half  of  the  Indian  establishments  and  goods 
which  the  Mackinaw  Company  had  within  the  territory 
of  the  Indian  country  in  the  United  States,  and  it  was 
understood  that  the  whole  was  to  be  surrendered  into 
his  hands  at  the  expiration  of  five  years,  on  condition 
that  the  American  Company  would  not  trade  within 
the  British  dominions. 

Unluckily,  the  war  which  broke  out  In  181 2  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  suspended  the  as- 
sociation ;  and,  after  the  war,  it  was  entirely  dissolved ; 
Congress  having  passed  a  law  prohibiting  British  fur 
traders  from  prosecuting  their  enterprises  within  the 
territories  of  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  III 

While  the  various  companies  we  have  noticed  were 
pushing  their  enterprises  far  and  wide  in  the  wilds  of 
Canada,  and  along  the  course  of  the  great  western 
waters,  other  adventurers,  intent  on  the  same  objects, 
were  traversing  the  watery  wastes  of  the  Pacific  and 
skirting  the  northwest  coast  of  America.  The  last 
voyage  of  that  renowned  but  unfortunate  discoverer, 


ASTORIA 


19 


as  saga- 

d  its  ri- 
ageously 
nnent  in 
■tners  of 
^aged  in 
ompany, 
any  into 
st  Com- 
and  ap- 

oprietor 
1  goods 
lerritory 
d  it  was 
red  into 
ondition 
within 

letween 
the  as- 

isolved ; 
ish  fur 

Ihin  the 


were 
iilds  of 

western 
)bjects, 

ic  and 
lie  last 

)verer, 


Captain  Cook,  had  made  known  the  vast  quantities  of 
the  sea-otter  to  be  found  along  that  coast,  and  the 
immense  prices  to  be  obtained  for  its  fur  in  China.  It 
was  as  if  a  new  gold  coast  had  been  discovered.  In- 
dividuals from  various  countries  dashed  into  this  lucra- 
tive traffic,  so  that  in  the  year  1792,  there  were  twenty- 
one  vessels  under  different  flags,  plying  along  the  coast 
and  trading  with  the  natives.  The  greater  part  of  them 
were  American,  and  owned  by  Boston  merchants. 
They  generally  remained  on  the  coast  and  about  the 
adjacent  seas,  for  two  years,  carrying  on  as  wandering 
and  adventurous  a  commerce  on  the  water  as  did  the 
traders  and  trappers  on  land.  Their  trade  extended 
along  the  whole  coast  from  California  to  the  high 
northern  latitudes.  They  would  run  in  near  shore,  an- 
chor, and  wait  for  the  natives  to  come  off  in  their 
canoes  w^ith  peltries.  The  trade  exhausted  at  one  place, 
they  would  up  anchor  and  off  to  another.  In  this  way 
they  ^vould  consume  the  summer,  and  when  autumn 
came  on,  would  run  down  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and 
winter  in  some  friendly  and  plentiful  harbor.  In  the 
following  year  they  w'ould  resume  their  summer  trade, 
commencing  at  California  and  proceeding  north:  and, 
having  in  the  course  of  the  two  seasons  collected  a  suf- 
ficient cargo  of  peltries,  would  make  the  best  of  their 
way  to  China.  Here  they  would  sell  their  furs,  take 
in  teas,  nankeens,  and  other  merchandise,  and  return 
to  Boston,  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three  years. 

The  people,  how^ever,  who  entered  most  extensively 
and  effectively  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  Pacific,  were 
the  Russians.  Instead  of  making  casual  voyages,  in 
transient  ships,  they  established  regular  trading  houses 
in  the  high  latitudes,  along  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  and  upon  the  chain  of  the  Aleutian  Islands 
between  Kamtschatka  and  the  promontory  of  Alaska. 

To  promote  and  protect  these  enterprises,  a  com- 
pany was  incorporated  by  the  Russian  government  with 


20 


ASTORIA 


I  { 


1       ! 


exclusive  privileges,  and  a  capital  of  two  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  pounds  sterling;  and  the  sovereignty  of 
that  part  of  the  American  continent,  along  the  coast 
of  which  the  posts  had  been  established,  was  claimed 
by  the  Russian  crown,  on  the  plea  that  the  land  had 
been  discovered  and  occupied  by  its  subjects. 

As  China  was  the  grand  mart  for  the  furs  collected 
in  these  quarters,  the  Russians  had  the  advantage  over 
their  competitors  in  the  trade.  The  latter  had  to  take 
their  peltries  to  Canton,  which,  however,  was  a  mere 
receiving  mart,  from  whence  they  had  to  be  distributed 
over  the  interior  of  the  empire  and  sent  to  the  northern 
parts,  where  there  was  the  chief  consumption.  The 
Russians,  on  the  contrary,  carried  their  furs,  by  a 
shorter  voyage,  directly  to  the  northern  parts  of  the 
Chinese  empire;  thus  being  able  to  afford  them  in 
the  market  without  the  additional  cost  of  internal 
transportation. 

We  come  now  to  the  immediate  field  of  operation  of 
the  great  enterprise  we  have  undertaken  to  illustrate. 

Among  the  American  ships  which  traded  along  the 
northwest  coast  in  1792,  was  the  Columbia,  Captain 
Gray,  of  Boston.  In  the  course  of  her  voyage  she  dis- 
covered the  mouth  of  a  large  river  in  lat.  46°  19'  north. 
Entering  it  with  some  difficulty,  on  account  of  sand- 
bars and  breakers,  she  came  to  anchor  in  a  spacious 
bay.  A  boat  was  well  manned,  and  sent  on  shore  to  a 
village  on  the  beach,  but  all  the  inhabitants  fled  except- 
ing the  aged  and  infirm.  The  kind  manner  in  which 
these  were  treated,  and  the  presents  given  to  them, 
gradually  lured  back  the  others,  and  a  friendly  inter- 
course took  place.  They  had  never  seen  a  ship  or  a 
white  man.  When  they  had  first  descried  the  Colum- 
bia, they  had  supposed  it  a  floating  island ;  then  some 
monster  of  the  deep ;  but  when  they  saw  the  boat  put- 
ting for  shore  with  human  beings  on  board,  they  con- 
sidered them  cannibals  sent  by  the  Great  Spirit  to  rav- 


1 


ASTORIA 


21 


dred  and 
eignty  of 
the  coast- 
;  claimed 
land  had 

collected 
age  over 
1  to  take 
>  a  mere 
stributcd 
northern 
>n.  The 
rs,  by  a 
s  of  the 
them  in 
internal 

ation  of 
ktstrate. 
ong  the 
Captain 
she  dis- 
'  north, 
sand- 
^acioiis 
)re  to  a 
except- 
which 
them, 
inter- 
p  or  a 
I^olum- 
1  some 
at  put- 
:y  con- 
o  rav- 


age  the  country  and  devour  the  inhabitants.  Captain 
Gray  did  not  ascend  the  river  farther  than  the  bay  in 
(juestion,  which  continues  to  bear  his  name.  After 
putting  to  sea,  he  fell  in  with  the  celebrated  discoverer, 
Vancouver,  and  informed  him  of  his  discovery,  fur- 
nishing him  with  a  chart  which  he  had  made  of  the 
river.  Vancouver  visited  the  river,  and  his  lieutenant, 
Broughton,  explored  it  by  the  aid  of  Captain  Gray's 
chart ;  ascending  it  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles,  un- 
til within  view  of  a  snowy  mountain,  to  which  he  gave 
the  name  of  Mount  Hood,  which  it  still  retains. 

The  existence  of  this  river,  however,  was  known 
long  before  the  visits  of  Gray  and  Vancouver,  l)ut  the 
information  concerning  it  was  vague  and  indefinite, 
being  gathered  from  the  reports  of  Indians.  It  was 
spoken  of  by  travellers  as  the  Oregon,  and  as  the  Great 
River  of  the  West.  A  Spanish  ship  is  said  to  have 
been  wrecked  at  the  mouth,  several  of  the  crew  of 
which  lived  for  some  time  among  the  natives.  The 
Columbia,  hov/ever,  is  believed  to  be  the  first  ship  that 
made  a  regular  discovery  and  anchored  within  its 
waters,  and  it  has  since  generally  borne  the  name  of 
that  vessel. 

As  early  as  1763,  shortly  after  the  acquisition  of  the 
Canadas  by  Great  Britain,  Captain  Jonathan  Carver, 
who  had  been  in  the  British  provincial  army,  projected 
a  journey  across  the  continent  between  the  forty-third 
and  forty-sixth  degrees  of  northern  latitude  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  His  objects  were  to  ascer- 
tain the  breadth  of  the  continent  at  its  broadest  part, 
and  to  determine  on  some  place  on  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  where  government  might  establish  a  post  to 
facilitate  the  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage,  or  a 
communication  between  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  This  place  he  presumed  would  be  somewhere 
about  the  Straits  of  Annian,  at  which  point  he  sup- 
posed the   Oregon   disembogued   itself.      It   was   his 


22 


ASTORIA 


I  .;: 


t 


opinion,  also,  that  a  settlement  on  this  extremity  of 
America  would  disclose  new  sources  of  trade,  promote 
many  useful  discoveries,  and  open  a  more  direct  com- 
munication with  China  and  the  English  settlements  in 
the  East  Indies,  than  that  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
or  the  Straits  of  Magellan.^  This  enterprising  and  in- 
trepid traveller  was  twice  baffled  in  individual  efforts 
to  accomplish  this  great  journey.  In  1774,  he  was 
joined  in  the  scheme  by  Richard  Whitworth,  a  mem- 
ber of  Parliament,  and  a  man  of  wealth.  Their  enter- 
prise was  projected  on  a  broad  and  bold  plan.  They 
were  to  take  with  them  fifty  or  sixty  men,  artificers  and 
mariners.  With  these  they  were  to  make  their  way  up 
one  of  the  branches  of  the  Missouri,  explore  the  moun- 
tains for  the  source  of  the  Oregon,  or  River  of  the 
West,  and  sail  down  that  river  to  its  supposed  exit, 
near  the  Straits  of  Annian,  Here  they  were  to  erect  a 
fort,  and  build  the  vessels  necessary  to  carry  their  dis- 
coveries by  sea  into  effect.  Their  plan  had  the  sanc- 
tion of  the  British  government,  and  grants  and  other 
requisites  were  nearly  completed,  when  the  breaking 
out  of  the  American  Revolution  once  more  defeated 
the  undertaking.^ 

The  expedition  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  1793, 
across  the  continent  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  he 
reached  in  lat.  52°  20'  48'',  again  suggested  the  pos- 
sibility of  linking  together  the  trade  of  both  sides  of 
the  continent.  In  lat.  52°  30'  he  had  descended  a  river 
for  some  distance  which  flowed  towards  the  south,  and 
was  called  by  the  natives  Tacoutche  Tesse,  and  which 
he  erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  Columbia.  It  was 
afterwards  ascertained  that  it  emptied  itself  in  lat.  49°, 
whereas  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is  about  three  de- 
grees further  south. 

When  Mackenzie  some  years  subsequently  published 

*  Carver's  Travels,  Introd.  b.  iii.    Philad.  1796. 

*  Ibid.,  p.  360.    Philad.  1796. 


ASTORIA 


23 


an  account  of  his  expeditions,  he  suggested  the  poHcy 
of  opening  an  intercourse  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  oceans,  and  forming  regular  establishments 
througli  the  interior  and  at  both  extremes,  as  well  as 
along  the  coasts  and  islands.  By  this  means,  he  ob- 
served, the  entire  command  of  the  fur  trade  of  North 
America  might  be  obtained  from  lat.  48°  north,  to  the 
pole,  excepting  that  portion  held  by  the  Russians,  for 
as  to  the  American  adventurers  who  had  hitherto  en- 
joyed the  traffic  along  the  northwest  coast,  they  would 
instantly  disappear,  he  added,  before  a  well  regulated 
trade. 

A  scheme  of  this  kind,  however,  was  too  vast  and 
hazardous  for  individual  enterprise ;  it  could  only  be 
undertaken  by  a  company  under  the  sanction  and  pro- 
tection of  a  government ;  and  as  there  might  be  a  clash- 
ing of  claims  between  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  North- 
west Company,  the  one  holding  by  right  of  charter, 
the  other  by  right  of  possession,  he  proposed  that  the 
two  companies  should  coalesce  in  this  great  undertak- 
ing. The  long-cherished  jealousies  of  these  two  com- 
panies, however,  were  too  deep  and  strong  to  allow 
them  to  listen  to  such  counsel. 

In  the  meantime  the  attention  of  the  American  gov- 
ernment was  attracted  to  the  subject,  and  the  memor- 
able expedition  under  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  fitted 
out.  These  gentlemen,  in  1804,  accomplished  the  en- 
terprise which  had  been  projected  by  Carver  and 
Whitworth,  in  1774.  They  ascended  the  Missouri, 
passed  through  the  stupendous  gates  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  hitherto  unknow^n  to  white  men ;  dis- 
covered and  explored  the  upper  waters  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  followed  that  river  down  to  its  mouth,  where 
their  countryman.  Gray,  had  anchored  about  twelve 
years  previously.  Here  they  passed  the  winter,  and  re- 
turned across  the  mountains  in  the  following  spring. 
The  reports  published  by  them  of  their  expedition, 


24 


ASTORIA 


I  ' 


') 


ilemonstrated  the  practicability  of  establishing  a  line 
of  communicati(^n  across  the  continent,  from  the  At- 
lantic to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  was  then  that  the  idea  presented  itself  to  the  mind 
of  Mr.  Astor,  of  grasping  with  his  individual  hand 
this  great  enterprise,  which  for  years  had  been  dubi- 
ously yet  desirously  contemplated  by  powerful  asso- 
ciations and  maternal  sfovernments.  For  some  time  he 
revolved  the  idea  in  his  mind,  gradually  extending  and 
maturing  his  plans  as  his  means  of  executing  them 
augmented.  The  main  feature  of  his  scheme  was  to 
establish  a  line  of  trading  posts  along  the  Missouri  and 
the  Columbia,  to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  where  was  to 
be  founded  the  chief  trading  house  or  mart.  Inferior 
posts  would  be  established  in  the  interior,  and  on  all 
the  tributary  streams  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade  with 
the  Indians;  these  posts  would  draw  their  supplies 
from  the  main  establishment,  and  bring  to  it  the  peltries 
they  collected.  Coasting  craft  would  be  built  and  fitted 
out,  also,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade,  at 
favorable  seasons,  all  along  the  northwest  coast,  and 
return,  with  the  proceeds  of  their  voyages,  to  this  place 
of  deposit.  Thus  all  the  Indian  trade,  both  of  the  in- 
terior and  the  coast,  would  converge  to  this  point,  and 
thence  derive  its  sustenance. 

A  ship  was  to  be  sent  annually  from  New  York  to 
this  main  establishment  with  reinforcements  and  sup- 
plies, and  with  merchandise  suited  to  the  trade.  It 
would  take  on  board  the  furs  collected  during  the  pre- 
ceding year,  carry  them  to  Canton,  invest  the  proceeds 
in  the  rich  merchandise  of  China,  and  return  thus 
freighted  to  New  York. 

As,  in  extending  the  American  trade  along  the  coast 
to  the  northward,  it  might  be  brought  into  the  vicinity 
of  the  Russian  Fur  Company,  and  produce  a  hostile 
rivalry,  it  was  part  of  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor  to  con- 
ciliate the  good-will  of  that  company  by  the  most  ami- 


ASTORIA 


25 


ig"  a  line 
1  the  At- 

the  mind 
ual  liand 
?en  dubi- 
ful  asso- 
i  time  he 
^h'ng  and 
ng  them 
i  was  to 
ouri  and 
e  was  to 
Inferior 
d  on  all 
de  with 
supplies 

peltries 
id  fitted 
"ade,  at 
ist,  and 
is  place 

the  in- 
nt,  and 

'ork  to 
id  sup- 
le.  It 
le  pre- 
oceeds 
thus 

J  coast 
icinity 
lostile 
)  con- 
t  ami- 


cable  and  beneficial  arrang-ements.  The  Russian  estab- 
lishment was  chiefly  dependent  for  its  supplies  upon 
transient  trading^  vessels  from  the  United  States. 
These  vessels,  however,  were  often  of  more  harm  than 
advantage.  Being  owned  by  private  adventurers,  or 
casual  voyageurs,  who  cared  only  for  present  profit,  and 
had  no  interest  in  the  permanent  prosperity  of  the 
trade,  they  were  reckless  in  their  dealings  with  the  na- 
tives, and  made  no  scruple  of  supplying  them  with  fire- 
arms. In  this  way  several  fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Russian  posts,  or  within  the  range  of  their  trad- 
ing excursions,  were  furnislied  with  deadly  means  of 
warfare,  and  rendered  troublesome  and  dangerous 
neighbors. 

The  Russian  government  had  made  representations 
to  that  of  the  United  States  of  these  malpractices  on 
the  part  of  its  citizens,  and  urged  to  have  this  traffic 
in  arms  prohibited ;  but,  as  it  did  not  infringe  any 
municipal  law,  our  government  could  not  interfere. 
Yet  still  it  regarded,  with  solicitude,  a  traffic  which,  if 
persisted  in,  might  give  offence  to  Russia,  at  that  time 
almost  the  only  friendly  power  to  us.  In  this  dilemma 
the  government  had  applied  to  Mr.  Astor,  as  one  con- 
versant in  this  branch  of  trade,  for  information  that 
might  point  out  a  way  to  remedy  the  evil.  This  cir- 
cumstance had  suggested  to  him  the  idea  of  supplying 
the  Russian  establishment  regularly  by  means  of  the 
annual  ship  that  should  visit  the  settlement  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  (or  Oregon)  ;  by  this  means  the 
casual  trading  vessels  would  be  excluded  from  those 
parts  of  the  coast  where  their  malpractices  were  so  in- 
jurious to  the  Russians. 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  enterprise  projected  by 
Mr.  Astor,  but  which  continually  expanded  in  his  mind. 
Indeed  it  is  due  to  him  to  say  that  he  was  not  actuated 
by  mere  motives  of  individual  profit.  He  was  already 
wealthy  beyond  the  ordinary  desires  of  man,  but  he 


1 

1|> 


,"     ^      '^i 


26 


ASTORIA 


now  aspired  to  tliat  honorable  fame  which  is  awarded 
to  men  of  similar  scope  of  mind,  who  by  their  threat 
commercial  enterprises  have  enriched  nations,  peopled 
wildernesses,  and  extended  the  honnds  of  empire,  lie 
considered  his  i)rojected  estahlishnient  at  the  month  of 
the  Colnmbia  as  the  emporinm  to  an  immense  com- 
merce* as  a  ccjlony  that  would  form  the  j^erm  of  a 
wide  civilization;  that  would,  in  fact,  carry  tlie  Ameri- 
can population  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  spread 
it  along-  the  shores  of  the  Pacilic,  as  it  already  animated 
the  shores  of  the  Atlantic. 

As  Mr.  Astor,  by  the  magnitude  of  his  com- 
mercial and  financial  relations,  and  the  vigor  and 
scope  of  his  self-taught  mind,  had  elevated  himself 
into  the  consideration  of  government  and  the  com- 
munion and  correspondence  with  leading  statesmen, 
he,  at  an  early  period,  communicated  his  schemes 
to  President  Jefferson,  soliciting  the  countenance  of 
government.  How  highly  they  were  esteemed  by 
tliat  eminent  man,  we  may  judge  by  the  follow- 
ing passage,  written  by  him  some  time  afterwards 
to   Mr.   Astor. 

"  I  remember  well  having  invited  your  proposition 
on  this  subject,^  and  encouraged  it  with  the  assurance 
of  every  facility  and  protection  which  the  government 
could  properly  afford.  I  considered,  as  a  great  public 
acquisition,  the  commencement  of  a  settlement  on  that 
point  of  the  western  coast  of  America,  and  looked  for- 
ward with  gratification  to  the  time  when  its  descend- 
ants should  have  spread  themselves  through  the  whole 
length  of  that  coast,  covering  it  with  free  and  inde- 
pendent Americans,  unconnected  with  us  but  by  the 

*  On  this  point  Mr.  Jefferson's  memory  was  in  error.  The 
proposition  alluded  to  was  the  one,  already  mentioned,  for  the 
establishment  of  an  American  Fur  Company  in  the  Atlantic  States. 
The  great  enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  that  was  to  sweep 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  originated  in  the  mind  of  Mr.  Astor, 
and  was  proposed  by  him  to  the  government. 


:i  warded 
■ir  i^reat 

peopled  „ 
ire.     Jle 
loiith  of 
se  com- 
'111  of  a 

Ameri- 
1  spread 
niniated 

is  com- 
^or  and 
himself 
le  com- 
tesmen, 
schemes 
fince  of 
led  by 
ollow- 
rwards 

osition 
u  ranee 
nnient 

:)iiblic 
>n  that 
d  for- 
scend- 
whole 

inde- 
y  the 

The 
or  the 
States, 
sweep 
Astor, 


ASTORIA 


27 


ties  of  blood  and  interest,  and  enjoying'  like  ns  the 
rights  of  self-government." 

The  cabinet  joined  with  Mr.  Jefferson  in  warm  ap- 
probation of  the  plan,  and  held  ont  assurance  of  every 
protection  that  could,  consistently  with  general  policy, 
be  afforded. 

Mr.  Astor  now  prepared  to  carry  his  scheme  into 
prompt  execution,  lie  had  some  competition,  however, 
to  apprehend  and  guard  against.  The  Northwest  Com- 
pany, acting  feebly  and  partially  upon  tlie  suggestions 
of  its  former  agent.  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  had 
pushed  one  or  two  advanced  trading  posts  across  the 
J\ocky  Mountains,  into  a  tract  of  country  visited  by 
that  enterprising  traveller,  and  since  named  New  Cale- 
donia. This  tract  lay  about  two  degrees  north  of  the 
Columbia,  and  intervened  between  the  territories  of 
the  United  States  and  those  of  Russia.  Its  length  wns 
about  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  its  breadth, 
from  the  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  from  three  hundred 
to  three  hundred  and  fifty  geographical  miles. 

Should  the  Northwest  Company  persist  in  extend- 
ing their  trade  in  that  quarter,  their  competition  might 
be  of  serious  detriment  to  the  plans  of  Mr.  Astor.  It 
is  true  they  would  contend  with  him  to  a  vast  disad- 
vantage, from  the  checks  and  restrictions  to  which  they 
were  subjected.  They  were  straitened  on  one  side  by 
the  rivalry  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company;  then  they 
had  no  good  post  on  the  Pacific  where  they  could  re- 
ceive supplies  by  sea  for  their  establishments  beyond 
the  mountains;  nor,  if  they  had  one,  could  they  ship 
their  furs  thence  to  China,  that  great  mart  for  peltries ; 
the  Chinese  trade  being  comprised  in  the  monopoly  of 
the  East  India  Company.  Their  posts  beyond  the 
mountains  had  to  be  supplied  in  yearly  expeditions,  like 
caravans,  from  Montreal,  and  the  furs  conveyed  back 
in  the  same  way,  by  long,  precarious,  and  expensive 
routes,  across  the  continent.    Mr.  Astor,  on  the  con- 


28 


ASTORIA 


;i 


if 


trary,  would  be  able  to  supply  his  proposed  establish- 
ment at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  by  sea,  and  to  ship 
the  furs  collected  there  directly  to  China,  so  as  to  un- 
dersell the  Northwest  Company  in  the  great  Chinese 
market. 

Still,  the  competition  of  two  rival  companies  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  could  not  but  prove  detri- 
mental to  both,  and  fraught  with  those  evils,  both  to 
the  trade  and  to  the  Indians,  that  had  attended  similar 
rivalries  in  the  Canadas.  To  prevent  any  contest  of  the 
kind,  therefore,  he  made  known  his  plan  to  the  agents 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  proposed  to  interest 
them,  to  the  extent  of  one  third,  in  the  trade  thus  to 
be  opened.  Some  correspondence  and  negotiation  en- 
sued. The  company  were  aware  of  the  advantages 
which  would  be  possessed  by  Mr.  Astor  should  he  be 
able  to  carry  his  scheme  into  effect;  but  they  antici- 
pated a  monopoly  of  the  trade  beyond  the  mountains 
by  their  establishments  in  New  Caledonia,  and  w-ere 
loth  to  share  it  with  an  individual  wdio  had  already 
proved  a  formidable  competitor  in  the  Atlantic  trade. 
They  hoped,  too,  by  a  timely  move,  to  secure  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  before  Mr.  Astor  would  be  able  to 
put  his  plans  into  operation;  and,  that  key  to  the  in- 
ternal trade  once  in  their  possession,  the  whole  country 
would  be  at  their  command.  After  some  negotiation 
and  delay,  therefore,  they  declined  the  proposition  that 
had  been  made  to  them,  but  subsequently  dispatched  a 
party  for  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  establish  a 
post  there  before  any  expedition  sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor 
might  arrive. 

In  the  meantime  Mr.  Astor,  finding  his  overtures 
rejected,  proceeded  fearlessly  to  execute  his  enterprise 
in  face  of  the  whole  power  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany. His  main  establishment  once  planted  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  he  looked  with  confidence  to 
ultimate  success.     Being  able  to  reinforce  and  supply 


ASTORIA 


29 


^stablish- 

d  to  ship 

as  to  iin- 

Chinese 

lies  west 
v^e  detri- 
,  both  to 
J  similar 
!st  of  the 
le  agents 
>  interest 
;  thus  to 
ition  en- 
vantages 
Id  he  be 
y  antici- 
puntains 
lid  were 
already 
trade, 
mouth 
able  to 
the  in- 
country 
otiation 
on  that 
ched  a 
blish  a 
Astor 

ertures 
erprise 
Com- 
at  the 
nice  to 
supply 


c 


it  amply  by  sea,  he  would  push  his  interior  posts  in 
every  direction  up  the  rivers  and  along  the  coast ;  sup- 
plying the  natives  at  a  lower  rate,  and  thus  gradually 
obliging  the  Northwest  Company  to  give  up  the  com- 
petition, relinquish  New  Caledonia,  and  retire  to  the 
other  side  of  the  mountains.  He  would  then  have  pos- 
session of  the  trade,  not  merely  of  the  Columbia  and  its 
tributaries,  but  of  the  regions  farther  north,  quite  to 
the  Russian  possessions.  Such  was  a  part  of  his  bril- 
liant and  comprehensive  plan. 

He  now  proceeded,  with  all  diligence,  to  procure 
proper  agents  and  coadjutors,  habituated  to  the  Indian 
trade  and  to  the  life  of  the  wilderness.  Among  the 
clerks  of  the  Northwest  Company  were  several  of  great 
capacity  and  experience,  who  had  served  out  their  pro- 
bationary terms,  but  who,  either  through  lack  of  in- 
terest and  influence,  or  a  want  of  vacancies,  had  not 
been  promoted.  They  were  consequently  much  dissatis- 
fied, and  ready  for  any  employment  in  which  their 
talents  and  acquirements  might  be  turned  to  better 
account. 

Mr.  Astor  made  his  overtures  to  several  of  these  per- 
sons, and  three  of  them  entered  into  his  views.  One 
of  these.  Air.  Alexander  M'Kay,  had  accompanied  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie  in  both  of  his  expeditions  to  the 
nortiiwest  coast  of  America  in  1789  and  1793.  The 
other  two  were  Duncan  M'Dougal  and  13onald  M'Ken- 
zie.  To  these  were  subsequently  added  Mr.  Wilson 
Price  Hunt,  of  New  Jersey.  As  this  gentleman  was  a 
native  born  citizen  of  the  United  States,  a  person  of 
great  probity  and  worth,  he  was  selected  by  Mr.  Astor 
to  be  his  chief  agent,  and  to  represent  him  in  the  con- 
templated establishment. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  1810,  articles  of  agreement 
were  entered  into  between  Mr.  Astor  and  those  four 
gentlemen,  acting  for  themselves  and  for  the  several 
persons  wlio  had  already  agreed  to  become,  or  should 


i 


4 


ll 


30 


ASTORIA 


thereafter  become,  associated  under  the  firm  of  "  The 
Pacific  Fur  Company." 

According  to  these  articles,  Mr.  Astor  was  to  be  at 
the  head  of  the  company,  and  to  manage  its  affairs  in 
New  York.  He  was  to  furnish  vessels,  goods,  pro- 
visions, arms,  ammunition,  and  all  other  requisites  for 
the  enterprise  at  first  cost  and  charges,  provided  that 
they  did  not,  at  any  time,  involve  an  advance  of  more 
than  four  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  stock  of  the  company  was  to  be  divided  into 
a  hundred  equal  shares,  with  the  profits  accruing 
thereon.  Fifty  shares  were  to  be  at  the  disposition  of 
Mr.  Astor,  and  the  other  fifty  to  be  divided  among  the 
partners  and  their  associates. 

Mr.  Astor  was  to  have  the  privilege  of  introducing 
other  persons  into  the  connection,  as  partners,  two  of 
whom,  at  least,  should  be  conversant  with  the  Indian 
trade,  and  none  of  them  entitled  to  more  than  three 
shares. 

A  general  meeting  of  the  company  was  to  be  held  an- 
nually at  Columbia  River,  for  the  investigation  and 
regulation  of  its  affairs ;  at  which  absent  members 
might  be  represented,  and  might  vote  by  proxy  under 
certain  specified  conditions. 

The  association,  if  successful,  was  to  continue  for 
twenty  years ;  but  the  parties  had  full  power  to  abandon 
and  dissolve  it  within  the  first  five  years,  should  it  be 
found  unprofitable.  For  this  term  Mr.  Astor  cove- 
nanted to  bear  all  the  loss  that  might  be  incurred ;  after 
which  it  was  to  be  borne  by  all  the  partners,  in  propor- 
tion to  their  respective  shares. 

The  parties  of  the  second  part  were  to  execute  faith- 
fully such  duties  as  might  be  assigned  to  them  by  a 
majority  of  the  company  on  the  northwest  coast,  and 
to  repair  to  such  place  or  places  as  the  majority  might 
direct. 

An  agent,  appointed  for  the  term  of  five  years,  was 


j 


ASTORIA 


31 


of  "  The 

s  to  be  at 
affairs  in 
)ods,  pro- 
lisites  for 
'ided  that 
i  of  more 

ided  into 

accruing 

3sition  of 

mong  the 

troducing 
s,  two  of 
le  Indian 
lan  three 

held  an- 
ion and 
members 
cy  under 

inue  for 
abandon 
lid  it  be 
3r  cove- 
d;  after 
propor- 

e  faith- 
m  by  a 
1st,  and 
y  might 

rs,  was 


to  reside  at  the  principal  establishment  on  the  north- 
west coast,  and  Wilson  Price  Hunt  was  the  one  chosen 
for  the  first  term.  Should  the  interests  of  the  concern 
at  any  time  require  his  absence,  a  person  was  to  be 
appointed,  in  general  meeting,  to  take  his  place. 

Such  were  the  leading  conditions  of  this  association ; 
we  shall  now  proceed  to  relate  the  various  hardy  and 
eventful  expeditions,  by  sea  and  land,  to  which  it  gave 
rise. 


CHAPTER  IV 

In  prosecuting  his  great  scheme  of  commerce  and  col- 
onization, two  expeditions  were  devised  by  Mr.  Astor, 
one  by  sea,  the  other  by  land.  The  former  was  to  carry 
out  the  people,  stores,  ammunition,  and  merchandise, 
requisite  for  establishing  a  fortified  trading  post  at  the 
mouth  of  Columbia  River.  The  latter,  conducted  by 
Air.  Hunt,  was  to  proceed  up  the  Missouri,  and  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the  same  point ;  exploring  a 
line  of  communication  across  the  continent,  and  noting 
the  places  where  interior  trading  posts  might  be  es- 
tablished. The  expedition  by  sea  is  the  one  w-hich 
comes  first  under  consideration. 

A  fine  ship  was  provided  called  the  Tonquin,  of  two 
hundred  and  ninety  tons  burden,  mounting  ten  guns, 
with  a  crew  of  twenty  men.  She  carried  an  assort- 
ment of  merchandise  for  trading  with  the  natives  of 
the  sea-board  and  of  the  interior,  together  with  the 
frame  of  a  schooner,  to  be  employed  in  the  coasting 
trade.  Seeds  also  were  provided  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  soil,  and  nothing  was  neglected  for  the  neces- 
sary supply  of  the  establishment.  The  command  of  the 
ship  was  intrusted  to  Jonathan  Thorn,  of  New  York, 
a  lieutenant  in  the  United  States  navy,  on  leave  of  ab- 
sence.    He  was  a  man  of  courage  and  firmness,  who 


Z'2 


ASTORIA 


J; 


had  distinguished  himself  in  our  TripoHtan  war,  and, 
from  being  accustomed  to  naval  discipline,  was  con- 
sidered by  Mr.  Astor  as  well  fitted  to  take  charge  of  an 
expedition  of  the  kind.  Four  of  the  partners  were  to 
embark  in  the  ship,  namely,  Messrs.  M'Kay,  M'Dougal, 
David  Stuart,  and  his  nephew,  Robert  Stuart.  Mr. 
M'Dougal  was  empowered  by  Mr.  Astor  to  act  as  his 
proxy  in  the  absence  of  Mr.  Hunt,  to  vote  for  him  and 
in  his  name,  on  any  question  that  might  come  before 
any  meeting  of  the  persons  interested  in  the  voyage. 

Beside  the  partners,  there  were  twelve  clerks  to  go 
out  in  the  ship,  several  of  them  natives  of  Canada,  who 
had  some  experience  in  Indian  trade.  They  were  bound 
to  the  service  of  the  company  for  five  years,  at  the  rate 
of  one  hundred  dollars  a  year,  payable  at  the  expira- 
tion of  the  term,  and  an  annual  equipment  of  clothing 
to  the  amount  of  forty  dollars.  In  case  of  ill  conduct 
they  were  liable  to  forfeit  their  wages  and  be  dismissed ; . 
but,  should  they  acquit  themselves  well,  the  confident 
expectation  was  held  out  to  them  of  promotion,  and 
partnership.  Their  interests  were  thus,  to  some  ex- 
tent, identified  with  those  of  the  company. 

Several  artisans  were  likewise  to  sail  in  the  ship,  for 
tlie  supply  of  the  colony;  but  the  most  peculiar  and 
characteristic  part  of  this  motley  embarkation  consisted 
of  thirteen  Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  who  had  enlisted 
for  five  years.  As  this  class  of  functionaries  will  con- 
tinually recur  in  the  course  of  the  following  narrations, 
and  as  they  form  one  of  those  distinct  and  strongly 
marked  castes  or  orders  of  people,  springing  up  in  this 
vast  continent  out  of  geographical  circumstances,  or 
the  varied  pursuits,  habitudes,  and  origins  of  its  popu- 
lation, we  shall  sketch  a  few  of  their  characteristics  for 
the  information  of  the  reader. 

The  "  voyageurs  "  form  a  kind  of  confraternity  in 
the  Canadas,  like  the  arrieros,  or  carriers  of  Spain, 
and,  like  them,  are  employed  in  long  internal  expedi- 


ASTORIA 


33 


var,  and, 
*vas  con- 
ge of  an 
were  to 
'Doiigal, 
rt.     Mr. 
ct  as  his 
him  and 
e  before 
^yage. 
<s  to  go 
ida,  who 
"e  bound 
the  rate 
expira- 
clothing 
conduct 
smissed;. 
onfident 
on,  and 
)me  ex- 
hip,  for 
iar  and 
)nsisted 
enHsted 
ill  con- 
ations, 
rongly 
in  this 
ces,  or 
popu- 
ics  for 

lity  in 
Spain, 
xpedi- 


tions  of  travel  and  traffic :  with  this  difference,  that 
the  arrieros  travel  by  land,  the  voyageurs  by  water ;  the 
former  with  mules  and  horses,  the  latter  with  batteaux 
and  canoes.  The  voyageurs  may  be  said  to  have  sprung 
up  out  of  the  fur  trade,  having  originally  been  em- 
ployed by  the  early  French  mercliants  in  their  trading 
expeditions  through  the  labyrinth  of  rivers  and  lakes 
of  the  boundless  interior.  They  w'ere  coeval  with  the 
courcurs  dcs  bois,  or  rangers  of  the  woods,  already 
noticed,  and,  like  them,  in  the  intervals  of  their  long, 
arduous,  and  laborious  expeditions,  were  prone  to  pass 
their  time  in  idleness  and  revelry  about  the  trading 
posts  or  settlements ;  squandering  their  hard  earnings 
in  heedless  conviviality,  and  rivalling  their  neighbors, 
the  Indians,  in  indolent  indulgence  and  an  imprudent 
disregard  of  the  morrow. 

When  Canada  passed  under  British  domination,  and 
the  old  French  trading  houses  were  broken  up  the  voy- 
ageurs, like  the  coureurs  des  hois,  were  for  a  time  dis- 
heartened and  disconsolate,  and  with  difficulty  could 
reconcile  themselves  to  the  service  of  the  new-comers, 
so  different  in  habits,  manners,  and  language  from 
their  former  employers.  By  degrees,  however,  they  be- 
came accustomed  to  the  change,  and  at  length  came  to 
consider  the  British  fur  traders,  and  especially  the 
members  of  the  Northwest  Company,  as  the  legitimate 
lords  of  creation. 

The  dress  of  these  people  is  generally  half  civilized, 
half  savage.  They  wear  a  capot  or  surcoat,  made  of  a 
blanket,  a  striped  cotton  shirt,  cloth  trowsers,  or  leath- 
ern leggins,  moccasins,  of  deer-skin,  and  a  belt  of  varie- 
gated worsted,  from  which  are  suspended  the  knife, 
tobacco-pouch,  and  other  implements.  Their  language 
is  of  the  same  piebald  character,  being  a  French  patois, 
embroidered  with  Indian  and  English  words  and 
phrases. 

The  lives  of  the  voyageurs  are  passed  in  wild  and 

3 


!1 

I 


34 


ASTORIA 


extensive  rovings,  in  the  service  of  individuals,  but 
more  especially  of  the  fur  traders.  They  are  generally 
of  French  descent,  and  inherit  much  of  the  gayety  and 
lightness  of  heart  of  their  ancestors,  being  full  of 
anecdote  and  song,  and  ever  ready  for  the  dance. 
They  inherit,  too,  a  fund  of  civility  and  complaisance; 
and,  instead  of  that  hardness  and  grossness  which  men 
in  laborious  life  are  apt  to  indulge  towards  each  other, 
they  are  mutually  obliging  and  accommodating;  in- 
terchanging kind  offices,  yielding  each  other  assistance 
and  comfort  in  every  emergency,  and  using  the  familiar 
appellations  of  *'  cousin  "  and  "  brother  "  when  there  is 
in  fact  no  relationship.  Their  natural  good-will  is 
probably  heightened  by  a  community  of  adventure  and 
hardship  in  their  precarious  and  wandering  life. 

No  men  are  more  submissive  to  their  leaders  and 
employers,  more  capable  of  enduring  hardship,  or  more 
good-humored  under  privations.  Never  are  they  so 
happy  as  when  on  long  and  rough  expeditions,  toiling 
Up  rivers  or  coasting  lakes ;  encamping  at  night  on  the 
borders,  gossiping  round  their  fires,  and  bivouacking 
in  the  open  air.  They  are  dexterous  boatmen,  vigorous 
and  adroit  with  the  oar  and  paddle,  and  will  row  from 
morning  until  night  without  a  murmur.  The  steers- 
man often  sings  an  old  traditionary  French  song,  with 
some  regular  burden  in  which  they  all  join,  keeping 
time  with  their  oars;  if  at  any  time  they  flag  in  spirits 
or  relax  in  exertion,  it  is  but  necessary  to  strike  up  a 
song  of  the  kind  to  put  them  all  in  fresh  spirits  and 
activity.  The  Canadian  waters  are  vocal  with  these 
little  French  chansons,  that  have  been  echoed  from 
mouth  to  mouth  and  transmitted  from  father  to  son, 
from  the  earliest  days  of  the  colony;  and  it  has  a 
pleasing  effect,  in  a  still  golden  summer  evening,  to 
see  a  batteau  gliding  across  the  bosom  of  a  lake  and 
dipping  its  oars  to  the  cadence  of  these  quaint  old  dit- 
ties, or  sweeping  along  in  full  chorus  on  a  bright  sunny 


ASTORIA 


35 


morning,  down  the  transparent  current  of  one  of  the 
Canada  rivers. 

But  we  are  talking"  of  things  that  are  fast  fading 
away!  The  march  of  mechanical  invention  is  driving 
everything  poetical  before  it.  The  steamboats,  which 
are  fast  dispelling  the  wildness  and  romance  of  our 
lakes  and  ri\ers,  and  aiding  to  subdue  the  world  into 
commonplace,  are  proving  as  fatal  to  the  race  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  as  they  have  been  to  that  of  the 
boatmen  of  the  Mississippi.  Their  glory  is  departed. 
They  are  o  longer  the  lords  of  our  internal  seas,  and 
the  great  navigators  of  the  wilderness.  Some  of  them 
may  still  occasionally  be  seen  coasting  the  lower  lakes 
with  their  frail  barks,  and  pitching  their  camps  and 
lighting  their  fires  upon  the  shores ;  but  their  range  is 
fast  contracting  to  those  remote  waters  and  shallow 
and  obstructed  rivers  unvisited  by  the  steamboat.  In 
the  course  of  years  they  will  gradually  disappear ;  their 
songs  will  die  away  like  the  echoes  they  once  awakened, 
and  the  Canadian  voyageurs  will  become  a  forgotten 
race,  or  remembered,  like  their  associates,  the  Indians, 
among  the  poetical  images  of  past  times,  and  as  themes 
for  local  and  romantic  associations. 

An  instance  of  the  buoyant  temperament  and  the 
professional  pride  of  these  people  was  furnished  in  the 
gay  and  braggart  style  in  which  they  arrived  at  New 
York  to  join  the  enterprise.  They  were  determined 
to  regale  and  astonish  the  people  of  the  "  States  "  with 
the  sight  of  a  Canadian  boat  and  a  Canadian  crew. 
They  accordingly  fitted  up  a  large  but  light  bark 
canoe,  such  as  is  used  in  the  fur  trade;  transported  it 
in  a  wagon  from  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
shores  of  Lake  Champlain;    traversed  the  lake  in  it, 


from  end  to  end ;    hoisted  it  ao^ain  in  a 


wagon 


and 


wheeled  it  off  to  Lansingburgh,  and  there  launched  it 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  Down  this  river  they 
plied  their  course  merrily  on  a  fine  summer's  day,  mak- 


I 

I 


36 


ASTORIA 


ing  its  banks  resound  for  the  first  time  with  their  old 
French  boat-songs ;  passing  by  the  villages  with  whoop 
and  halloo,  so  as  to  make  the  honest  Dutch  farmers 
mistake  them  for  a  crew  of  savages.  In  this  way  they 
swept,  in  full  song  and  with  regular  flourish  of  the 
paddle,  round  New  York,  in  a  still  summer  evening,  to 
the  wonder  and  admiration  of  its  inhabitants,  who  had 
never  before  witnessed  on  their  waters,  a  nautical  ap- 
parition of  the  kind. 

Such  was  the  variegated  band  of  adventurers  about 
to  embark  in  the  Tonquin  on  this  arduous  and  doubtful 
enterprise.  While  yet  in  port  and  on  dry  land,  in  the 
bustle  of  preparation  and  the  excitement  of  novelty,  all 
was  sunshine  and  promise.  The  Canadians,  especially, 
who,  with  their  constitutional  vivacity,  have  a  con- 
siderable dash  of  the  gascon,  were  buoyant  and  boast- 
ful, and  great  braggarts  as  to  the  future;  while  all 
those  who  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade,  plumed 
themselves  upon  their  hardihood  and  their  capacity  to 
endure  privations.  If  Mr.  Astor  ventured  to  hint  at 
the  difficulties  they  might  have  to  encounter,  they 
treated  them  with  scorn.  They  w-ere  "  northwesters  "  ; 
men  seasoned  to  hardships,  who  cared  for  neither  wind 
nor  weather.  They  could  live  hard,  lie  hard,  sleep  hard, 
eat  dogs !  —  in  a  word  they  were  ready  to  do  and 
suffer  anything  for  the  good  of  the  enterprise.  With 
all  this  profession  of  zeal  and  devotion,  Mr.  Astor  was 
not  over-confident  of  the  stability  and  firm  faith  of 
these  mercurial  beings.  He  had  received  information, 
also,  that  an  armed  brig  from  Halifax,  probably  at  tWe 
instigation  of  the  Northwest  Company,  was  hovering 
on  the  coast,  watching  for  the  Tonquin,  with  the  pur- 
pose of  impressing  the  Canadians  on  board  of  her,  as 
British  subjects,  and  thus  interrupting  the  voyage.  It 
was  a  time  of  doubt  and  anxiety,  when  the  relations 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  were  daily 


ASTORIA 


37 


assuming  a  more  precarious  aspect  and  verging  to- 
wards that  war  which  shortly  ensued.  As  a  precau- 
tionary measure,  therefore,  he  required  that  the  voy- 
ageurs,  as  they  were  about  to  enter  into  the  service  of 
an  American  association,  and  to  reside  within  the  Hmits 
of  the  United  States,  should  take  the  oaths  of  naturali- 
zation as  American  citizens.  To  this  they  readily  agreed, 
and  shortly  afterward  assured  him  that  they  had  actu- 
ally done  so.  It  was  not  until  after  they  had  sailed  that 
he  discovered  that  they  had  entirely  deceived  him  in  the 
matter. 

The  confidence  of  Mr.  Astor  was  abused  in  another 
quarter.  Two  of  the  partners,  both  of  them  Scotch- 
men, and  recently  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany, had  misgivings  as  to  an  enterprise  which  might 
clash  with  the  interests  and  establishments  protected  by 
the  British  flag.  They  privately  waited  ujXDn  the  Brit- 
ish minister,  Mr.  Jackson,  then  in  New  York,  laid 
open  to  him  the  whole  scheme  of  Mr.  Astor,  though 
intrusted  to  them  in  confidence,  and  dependent,  in  a 
great  measure,  upon  secrecy  at  the  outset  for  its  suc- 
cess, and  inquired  whether  they,  as  British  subjects, 
could  lawfully  engage  in  it.  The  reply  satisfied  their 
scruples,  while  the  information  they  imparted  ex- 
cited the  surprise  and  admiration  of  Mr.  Jackson, 
that  a  private  individual  should  have  conceived  and 
set  on  foot  at  his  own  risk  and  expense  so  great  an 
enterprise. 

This  step  on  the  part  of  those  gentlemen  was  not 
known  to  Mr.  Astor  until  some  time  afterwards,  or  it 
might  have  modified  the  trust  and  confidence  reposed 
in  them. 

To  guard  against  any  interruption  to  the  voyage  by 
the  armed  brig,  said  to  be  off  the  harbor,  Mr.  Astor 
applied  to  Commodore  Rodgers,  at  that  time  com- 
manding at  New  York,  to  give  the  Tonquin  safe  con- 
voy off  the  coast.     Tlie  commodore  having  received 


'  IT 


38 


ASTORIA 


from  a  high  official  source  assurance  of  the  deep  in- 
terest which  the  government  took  in  the  enterprise, 
sent  directions  to  Captain  Hull,  at  that  time  cruising 
off  the  harbor,  in  the  frigate  Constitution,  to  afford  the 
Tonquin  the  required  protection  when  she  should  put 
to  sea. 

Before  the  day  of  embarkation,  Mr.  Astor  addressed 
a  letter  of  instruction  to  the  four  {partners  who  were 
to  sail  in  the  ship.  In  this  he  enjoined  them,  in  the 
most  earnest  manner,  to  cultivate  harmony  and  unanim- 
ity, and  recommended  that  all  differences  of  opinions 
on  points  connected  with  the  objects  and  interests  of 
the  voyage  should  be  discussed  by  the  whole,  and  de- 
cided by  a  majority  of  votes.  He,  moreover,  gave  them 
especial  caution  as  to  their  conduct  on  arriving  at  their 
destined  port;  exhorting  them  to  be  careful  to  make 
a  favorable  impression  upon  the  wild  people  among 
whom  their  lot  and  the  fortunes  of  the  enterprise 
would  be  cast.  "If  you  find  them  kind,"  said  he.  "  as 
I  hope  you  wall,  be  so  to  them.  If  otherwise,  act  with 
caution  and  forbearance,  and  convince  them  that  you 
come  as  friends." 

With  the  same  anxious  forethought  he  wrote  a  letter 
of  instructions  to  Captain  Thorn,  in  which  he  urged  the 
strictest  attention  to  the  health  of  himself  and  his 
crew,  and  to  the  promotion  of  good-humor  and  har- 
mony on  board  his  ship.  "  To  prevent  any  misunder- 
standing," added  he.  "  will  require  your  particular  good 
management.  His  letter  closed  with  an  injunction  of 
wariness  in  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  a  subject 
on  which  Mr.  Astor  was  justly  sensible  he  could  not 
be  too  earnest.  "  I  must  recommend  you,"  said  he, 
"  to  be  particularly  careful  on  the  coast,  and  not  to 
rely  too  much  on  the  friendly  disposition  of  the  na- 
tives. All  accidents  which  have  as  yet  happened  there 
arose  from  too  much  confidence  in  the  Indians." 

The  reader  will  bear  these  instructions  in  mind,  as 


ASTORIA 


39 


events  will  prove  tlicir  wisdom  and  importance,  and 
the  disasters  which  ensued  in  consequence  of  the 
neglect  of  them. 


CHAPTER  V 


e,  "  as 

with 

you 


good 
on  of 
lb  j  ect 
d  not 
he, 
lOt  to 
e  na- 
there 

d,  as 


On  the  eighth  of  September,  1810,  the  Tonquir,  put  to 
sea,  where  she  was  soon  joined  by  the  frigate  Consti- 
tution. The  wind  ..as  fresh  and  fair  from  the  south- 
west, and  the  shi[)  was  soon  out  of  sight  of  land  and 
free  from  the  apprehended  danger  of  interruption. 
The  frigate,  therefore,  gave  her  *'  God  speed,"  and  left 
her  to  her  course. 

The  harmony  so  earnestly  enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor  on 
this  heterogeneous  crew,  and  which  had  been  so  con- 
fidently promised  in  the  buoyant  moments  of  prepara- 
tion, w^as  doomed  to  meet  with  a  check  at  the  very 
outset. 

Captain  Thorn  was  an  honest,  straightforward,  but 
somewhat  dry  and  dictatorial  commander,  who,  having 
been  nurtured  in  the  system  and  discipline  of  a  ship 
of  war,  and  in  a  sacred  opinion  of  the  supremacy  of 
the  quarter-deck,  was  disposed  to  be  absolute  lord  and 
master  Cii  board  of  his  ship.  He  appears,  moreover,  to 
have  had  no  great  opinion,  from  the  first,  of  the  per- 
sons embarked  with  him.  He  had  stood  by  with  surly 
contempt  while  they  vaunted  so  bravely  to  Mr.  iVstor 
of  all  they  could  do  and  all  they  could  undergo;  how 
they  could  face  all  weathers,  put  up  with  all  kinds  of 
fare,  and  even  eat  dogs  with  a  relish,  when  no  better 
food  was  to  be  had.  He  had  set  them  down  as  a  set  of 
landlubbers  and  braggadocios,  and  was  disposed  to 
treat  them  accordingly.  Mr.  Astor  was,  in  his  eyes, 
his  only  real  employer,  being  the  father  of  the  enter- 
prise, who  furnished  all  funds  and  bore  all  losses.  The 
others  were  mere  agents  and  subordinates,  who  lived 


i^- 


40 


ASTORIA 


!l 


at  his  expense.  He  evidently  had  but  a  narrow  idea 
of  the  sco[)e  and  nature  of  the  enterprise,  hmiting  his 
views  merely  to  his  part  of  it;  everything  beyond  the 
concerns  of  his  ship  was  out  of  his  sphere;  and  any- 
thing that  interfered  with  the  routine  of  his  nautical 
duties  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  partners,  on  tiie  other  hand,  had  been  brought 
up  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  in  a 
profound  idea  of  the  importance,  dignity,  and  author- 
ity of  a  partner.  They  already  began  to  consider  them- 
selves on  a  par  with  the  Al'Tavishes,  the  M'Gillivrays, 
the  Frobishers,  and  the  other  magnates  of  the  North- 
west, whom  they  had  been  accustomed  to  look  up  to  as 
the  great  ones  of  the  earth ;'  and  they  were  a  little  dis- 
posed, perhaps,  to  wear  their  suddenly-acquired  honors 
with  some  air  of  pretension.  Mr.  Astor,  too,  had  put 
them  on  their  mettle  with  respect  to  the  captain,  de- 
scribing him  as  a  gunpowder  fellow  who  would  com- 
mand his  ship  in  fine  style,  and,  if  there  was  any  fight- 
ing to  do,  would  "  blow  all  out  of  the  water." 

Thus  prepared  to  regard  each  other  with  no  very 
cordial  eye,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  parties 
soon  came  into  collision.  On  the  very  first  night  Cap- 
tain Thorn  began  his  man-of-war  discipline  by  order- 
ing the  lights  in  the  cabin  to  be  extinguished  at  eight 
o'clock. 

The  pride  of  the  partners  was  immediately  in  arms. 
This  was  an  invasion  of  their  rights  and  dignities  not 
to  be  borne.  They  were  on  board  of  their  own  ship, 
and  entitled  to  consult  their  ease  and  enjoyment. 
M'Dougal  was  the  champion  of  their  cause.  He  was 
an  active,  ir  "itable,  fuming,  vainglorious  little  man, 
and  elevated  in  his  own  opinion,  by  being  the  proxy  of 
Mr.  Astor.  A  violent  altercation  ensued,  in  the  course 
of  which  Thorn  threatened  to  put  the  partners  in  irons 
should  they  prove  refractory;  upon  which  M'Dougal 
seized  a  pistol  and  swore  to  be  the  death  of  the  captain 


ASTORIA 


41 


should  he  ever  offer  such  an  indignity.  It  was  some 
time  before  the  irritated  parties  could  be  pacitied  l)y 
the  more  temperate  bystanders. 

Such  was  the  captain's  outset  with  the  partners.  Nor 
did  the  clerks  stand  much  higher  in  his  good  graces; 
indeed,  he  seems  to  have  regarded  all  the  landsmen  on 
board  his  ship  as  a  kind  of  live  lumber,  continually  in 
the  way.  The  poor  voyageurs,  too,  continually  irritated 
his  spleen  by  their  "  lubberly  "  and  unseemly  habits, 
so  abhorrent  to  one  accustomed  to  the  cleanliness  of  a 
man-of-war.  These  poor  fresh-water  sailors,  so  vain- 
glorious ui\  shore,  acj.  alniost  amphibit)us  when  on 
lakes  anci  rivi^'s,  lost  all  h^.art  and  stomach  the  mo- 
ment they  wert  at  sra.  1  or  days  they  suffered  the  dole- 
ful rigors  and  1  etching?  of  sea-sickness,  lurking  below 
in  their  be.'ths  v.\  sciuru'd  state,  ov  enierginj;  now  and 
then  like  spectres  from  the  ho t.c i ». way «^.  '.o  capotes  and 
blankets,  '.villi  dirty  ni>^htca^>?,  gTl/zly  beard,  lantern 
visage  and  unhappy  C;/0,  shivcrir.^  ai-cjul  the  deck,  and 
ever  and  anon  craw^ing^  ',0  tne  si  vies  of  thv'  vessel,  and 
offering  up  their  tributes  to  the  windwrU-;!,  to  the  in- 
finite annoyance  of  tl^.e  captrcin. 

His  letters  to  IMr.  Astor,  wherein  he  pours  forth  the 
bitterness  of  his  soul,  and  his  seainaniike  impatience 
of  what  he  consider':^  tlic  *'  !ubbc7r\.'  "  chaiacter  and  con- 
duct of  those  around  hiiri.  cucbefoif-  us.  and  are  amus- 
ingly characteristic.  Tiie  hoju^st  captain  is  full  of 
vexation  on  his  own  account,  ar><!  solicitude  on  account 
of  Mr.  Astor,  wdiosc  property  he  considers  at  the 
mercy  of  a  most  li--  erogeneous  and  wasteful  crew. 

As  to  the  cl':rks,  he  pronounced  them  mere  pretend- 
ers, not  one  of  whom  had  ever  been  among  the  In- 
dians, ior  farther  to  the  northwest  than  Montreal,  nor 
of  higher  rank  than  bar-keeper  of  a  tavern  or  marker 
of  a  billiard-table,  excepting  one,  who  had  been  a 
school-master,  and  whom  he  emphatically  sets  down 
for  "  as  foolish  a  pedant  as  ever  lived." 


ll 


42 


ASTORIA 


Then  as  to  the  artisans  and  la1)orers  who  had  been 
brought  from  Canada  and  shipped  at  such  expense,  the 
three  most  respectable,  accorthng  to  the  captain's  ac- 
count, were  culprits,  who  had  lied  from  Canada  on  ac- 
count of  their  misdeeds ;  the  rest  had  figured  in  Mon- 
treal as  draymen,  barbers,  waiters,  and  carriole  drivers, 
and  were  the  most  helpless,  worthless  beings  '*  that 
ever  broke  sea-biscuit." 

It  may  easily  be  imagined  what  a  series  of  misun- 
derstandings and  cross-purposes  would  be  likely  to 
take  place  between  such  a  crew  and  such  a  commander. 
The  captain,  in  his  zeal  for  the  health  and  cleanliness 
of  his  ship,  would  make  sweeping  visitations  to  the 
*'  lubber  nests  '■'  of  the  unlucky  "  voyageurs  "  and  their 
companions  in  misery,  ferret  them  out  of  their  berths, 
make  them  air  and  wash  themselves  and  their  accoutre- 
ments, and  oblige  them  to  stir  about  briskly  and  take 
exercise. 

Nor  did  his  disgust  and  vexation  cease  when  all 
hands  had  recovered  from  sea-sickness,  and  become 
accustomed  to  the  ship,  for  now  broke  out  an  alarming 
keenness  of  appetite  that  threatened  havoc  to  the  pro- 
visions. What  especially  irritated  the  captain  was  the 
daintiness  of  some  of  his  cabin  passengers.  They  were 
loud  in  their  complaints  of  the  ship's  fare,  though  their 
table  was  served  with  fresh  pork,  hams,  tongues, 
smoked  beef,  and  puddings.  "  When  thwarted  in  their 
cravings  for  delicacies,"  said  he,  "  they  would  exclaim 

it  was  d d  hard  they  could  not  live  as  they  pleased 

upon  their  own  property,  being  on  board  of  their  own 
ship,  freighted  with  their  own  merchandise.  And 
these,"  added  he,  *'  are  the  line  fellows  who  made  such 
boast  that  they  could  '  eat  dogs.'  " 

In  his  indignation  at  what  he  termed  their  effem- 
inacy, he  would  swear  that  he  would  never  take  them 
to  sea  again  "  without  having  Fly-market  on  the  fore- 
castle, Covcnt-gnrdcn  on  the  pot)p,  ar.d  a  cool  spring 
from  Canada  in  the  maintop." 


ASTORIA 


43 


)nng 


As  they  proceeded  on  their  voyage  and  got  into  the 
smooth  seas  and  pleasant  weather  of  tiie  tropics,  other 
annoyances  occurred  to  vex  the  spirit  of  the  captain. 
He  had  been  crossed  by  the  irritable  mood  of  one  of 
the  partners;  he  was  now  excessively  annoyed  by  the 
good-humor  of  another.  This  was  the  elder  Stuart, 
who  was  an  easy  soul,  and  of  a  social  disposition.  He 
had  seen  life  in  Canada,  and  on  the  coast  of  Labrador; 
had  been  a  fur  trader  in  the  former,  and  a  fisherman  on 
the  latter;  and,  in  the  course  of  his  experience,  had 
made  various  expeditions  with  voyageurs.  He  was  ac- 
customed, therefore,  to  the  familiarity  which  prevails 
between  that  class  and  their  superiors,  and  the  gossip- 
ings  which  take  place  among  them  when  seated  round 
a  fire  at  their  encampments.  Stuart  was  never  so  happy 
as  when  he  could  seat  himself  on  the  deck  with  a  num- 
ber of  these  men  round  him,  in  camping  style,  smoke 
together,  passing  the  pipe  from  mouth  to  mouth,  after 
the  manner  of  the  Indians,  sing  old  Canadian  boat- 
songs,  and  tell  stories  about  their  hardships  and  ad- 
ventures, in  the  course  oi  which  he  rivalled  Sinbad  in 
his  long  tales  of  the  sea,  about  his  fishing  exploits  on 
the  coast  of  Labrador. 

This  gossiping  familiarity  shocked  the  captain's  no- 
tions of  rank  and  subordination,  and  nothing  was  so 
abhorrent  to  him  as  the  community  of  pipe  between 
master  and  man,  and  their  mingling  in  chorus  in  the 
outlandish  boat-songs. 

Then  there  was  another  whimsical  source  of  annoy- 
ance to  him.  Some  of  the  young  clerks,  who  were  mak- 
ing their  first  voyage,  and  to  whom  everything  was 
new  and  strange,  were,  very  rationally,  in  the  habit  of 
taking  notes  and  keeping  journals.  This  was  a  sore 
abomination  to  the  honest  captain,  who  held  their 
literary  pretensions  in  great  contempt.  "The  collect- 
ing of  materials  for  long  histories  of  their  voyages 
and  travels,"  said  he,  in  his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  "  ap- 


44 


ASTORIA 


» 


pears  to  engross  most  of  tlieir  attention."  We  can 
conceive  what  must  have  been  the  crusty  impatience  of 
the  worthy  navigator,  when,  on  any  trifling  occurrence 
in  the  course  of  the  voyage,  quite  commonplace  in  his 
eyes,  he  saw  these  young  landsmen  running  to  record 
it  in  their  journals;  and  what  indignant  glances  he 
must  have  cast  to  right  and  left,  as  he  worried  about 
the  deck,  giving  out  his  orders  for  the  management 
of  the  ship,  surrounded  by  singing,  smoking,  gossiping, 
scribbling  groups,  all,  as  he  thought,  intent  upon  the 
amusement  of  the  passing  hour,  instead  of  the  great 
purposes  and  interests  of  the  voyage. 

It  is  possible  the  captain  was  in  some  degree  right  in 
his  notions.  Though  some  of  the  passengers  had  much 
to  gain  by  the  voyage,  none  of  them  had  anything  posi- 
tively to  lose.  They  were  mostly  young  men,  in  the 
heyday  of  life;  and  having  got  into  fine  latitudes,  upon 
smooth  seas,  with  a  well-stored  ship  under  them,  and 
a  fair  wind  in  the  shoukler  of  the  sail,  they  seemed  to 
have  got  into  a  holiday  world,  and  were  disposed  to 
enjoy  it.  That  craving  desire,  natural  to  untravelled 
men  of  fresh  and  lively  minds,  t(  see  strange  lands, 
and  to  visit  scenes  famous  in  history  or  fable,  was  ex- 
pressed by  some  of  the  partners  and  clerks,  with  respect 
to  some  of  the  storied  coasts  and  islands  that  lay  within 
their  route.  The  captain,  however,  who  regarded  every 
coast  and  island  with  a  matter-of-fact  eye,  and  had  no 
more  associations  connected  with  them  than  those  laid 
down  in  his  sea-chart,  considered  all  this  curiosity  as 
exceedingly  idle  and  childish.  "  In  the  first  part  of  the 
voyage,"  says  he  in  his  letter,  "  they  were  determined 
to  have  it  said  they  had  been  in  Africa,  and  therefore 
insisted  on  my  stopping  at  the  Cape  de  Verds.  Next 
they  said  the  ship  should  stop  on  the  coast  of  Pata- 
gonia, for  they  must  see  the  large  and  uncomuKMi  in- 
habitants of  that  place.  Then  they  must  go  to  the 
island  where  Robinson  Crusoe  had  so  long  lived.    And 


ASTORIA 


45 


itbiii 


y  as 
the 
ined 
fore 
Mext 
ala- 
1  in- 
tlic 
And 


lastly,  they  were  determined  to  see  the  handsome  in- 
habitants of  Easter  Island." 

To  all  these  resolves  the  captain  opposed  his  per- 
emptory veto,  as  "contrary  to  instructions."  Then 
would  break  forth  an  unavailing  explosion  of  wrath 
on  the  part  of  certaiii  of  the  partners,  in  the  course  of 
which  they  did  nol  dven  spare  Mr.  Astor  for  his  act 
of  supererogation  in  furnishing  orders  for  the  control 
of  the  ship  while  they  were  on  board,  instead  of  leaving 
them  to  be  the  judges  where  it  would  be  l)est  for  her 
to  touch,  and  how  long  to  remain.  The  choleric 
M'Dougal  took  the  lead  in  these  railings,  being,  as 
has  been  observed,  a  little  puffed  up  with  the  idea  of 
being  Mr.  Astor's  proxy. 

The  captain,  however,  became  only  so  much  the 
more  crusty  and  dogged  in  his  adlierence  to  his  orders, 
and  touchy  and  harsh  in  his  dealings  with  his  passen- 
gers, and  frequent  altercations  ensued.  He  may  in 
some  measure  have  been  influenced  by  his  seamanlike 
impatience  of  the  interference  of  landsmen,  and  his 
high  notions  of  naval  etiquette  and  quarter-deck  au- 
thority; but  he  evidently  had  an  honest,  trusty  con- 
cern for  the  interests  of  his  employer.  He  pictured  to 
himself  the  anxious  projector  of  the  enterprise,  who 
had  disbursed  so  munificently  in  its  outfit,  calculating 
on  the  zeal,  fidelity,  and  singleness  of  purpose  of  his 
associates  and  agents ;  while  they,  on  the  other  hand, 
having  a  good  ship  at  their  disposal,  and  a  deep  pocket 
at  home  to  bear  them  out,  seemed  ready  to  loiter  on 
every  coast,  and  amuse  themselves  in  every  port. 

On  the  fourth  of  December  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  Falkland  Islands.  Having  been  for  some  time  on 
an  allowance  of  water,  it  was  resolved  to  anchor  here 
and  obtain  a  supjily.  A  boat  was  sent  hv.o  a  small 
bay  to  take  soundings.  Mr.  M'Dougal  and  Mr.  M'Kay 
took  this  occasion  to  go  on  shore,  but  with  a  re- 
quest  from  the  captain  that   they   would   not   detain 


46 


ASTORIA 


I 


the  ship.  Once  on  shore,  however,  they  were  in  no 
haste  to  obey  his  orders,  but  rambled  about  in  search 
of  curiosities.  The  anchorage  proving  unsafe,  and 
water  difficult  to  be  procured,  the  captain  stood  out  to 
sea,  and  made  repeated  signals  for  those  on  shore  to 
rejoin  the  ship  but  it  was  not  until  nine  at  night  that 
they  came  on  board. 

The  wind  being  adverse,  the  boat  was  again  sent  on 
shore  on  the  following  morning,  and  the  same  gentle- 
men again  landed,  but  promised  to  come  off  at  a  mo- 
ment's warning;  they  again  forgot  their  promise  in 
their  eager  pursuit  of  wild  j;  ~,ese  and  sea-wolves.  After 
a  time  the  wind  hauled  fair,  and  signals  were  made  for 
the  boat.  Half  an  hour  elapsed  but  no  boat  put  off. 
The  captain  reconnoitred  the  shore  with  his  glass,  and, 
to  his  infinite  vexation,  saw  the  '^iterers  in  the  full 
enjoyment  of  their  "  wild-goose-chase."  Nettled  to 
the  quick,  he  immediately  made  sail.  When  those  on 
shore  saw  the  ship  actually  under  way,  they  embarked 
with  all  speed,  but  had  a  hard  pull  of  eight  miles  before 
they  got  on  board,  and  then  experienced  but  a  grim 
reception,  notwithstanding  that  they  came  well  laden 
with  the  spoils  of  the  chase. 

Two  days  afterwards,  on  the  seventh  of  December, 
they  anchored  at  Fort  Egmont,  in  the  same  island, 
where  they  remained  four  days  taking  in  water  and 
making  repairs.  This  was  a  joyous  time  for  the  lands- 
men. They  pitched  a  tent  on  shore,  had  a  boat  at  their 
command,  and  passed  their  time  merrily  in  rambling 
about  the  island,  and  coasting  along  the  shores,  shoot- 
ing sea-lions,  seals,  foxes,  geese,  ducks,  and  penguins. 
None  were  keener  in  pursuit  of  this  kind  of  game 
than  M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart;  the  latter  was  re- 
minded of  aquatic  sports  on  the  coast  of  Labrador, 
and  his  hunting  exploits  in  the  Northwest. 

In  the  meantime  the  captain  addressed  himself 
steadily  to  the  business  of  hi.  ship,  scorning  the  holi- 


ASTORIA 


47 


day  spirit  and  useless  pursuits  of  his  emancipated 
messmates,  and  warning  them,  from  time  to  time,  not 
to  wander  away  nor  he  out  of  hail.  They  promised, 
as  usual,  that  the  ship  should  never  experience  a  mo- 
ment's detention  on  their  account,  but,  as  usual,  forgot 
their  promise. 

On  the  morning  of  the  nth,  the  repairs  being  all 
finished,  and  the  water  casks  replenished,  the  signal 
was  given  to  em1)ark,  and  the  ship  began  to  weigh 
anchor.  At  this  time  several  of  the  passengers  were 
dispersed  about  the  island,  amusing  themselves  in 
various  ways.  Some  of  the  young  men  had  found  two 
inscriptions,  in  English,  over  a  place  where  two  un- 
fortunate mariners  had  been  buried  in  this  desert 
island.  As  the  inscriptions  were  nearly  worn  out  by 
time  and  weather,  they  were  playing  the  part  of  "  Old 
Mortality,"  and  piously  renewing  them.  The  signal 
from  the  ship  summoned  them  from  their  labors ;  tiiey 
saw  the  sails  unfurled,  and  that  she  was  getting  un- 
der way.  The  two  sporting  partners,  however,  Mr. 
M'Dougal  and  David  Stuart,  had  strolled  away  to  the 
south  of  the  island  in  pursuit  of  penguins.  It  would 
never  do  to  put  off  without  them,  as  there  was  but  one 
boat  to  convey  the  whole. 

While  this  delay  took  place  on  shore,  the  captain 
was  storming  on  board.  This  was  the  third  time  his 
orders  had  been  treated  with  contempt,  and  the  ship 
wantonly  detained,  and  it  should  be  the  last ;  so  he 
spread  all  sail  and  put  to  sea,  swearing  he  would  leave 
the  laggards  to  shift  for  themselves.  It  was  in  vain 
that  thos^  on  board  made  remonstrances  and  entreaties, 
and  represented  the  horrors  of  abandoning  men  upon 
a  sterile  and  uninhabited  island;  the  sturdy  captain 
was  infiexible. 

In  the  meantime  the  penguin  hunters  had  joined  the 
engravers  of  tombstones,  but  not  before  the  ship  was 
already  out  at  sea.     They  all,  to  the  number  of  eight, 


4 


Il 


I 


48 


ASTORIA 


threw  themselves  into  their  boat,  which  was  about 
twenty  feet  in  length,  and  rowed  with  might  and  main. 
For  three  hours  and  a  half  did  they  tug  anxiously  and 
severely  at  the  oar,  swashed  occasionally  by  the  surg- 
ing waves  of  the  open  sea,  while  the  ship  inexorably 
kept  on  her  course,  and  seemed  determined  to  leave 
them  behind. 

On  board  of  the  ship  was  the  nephew  of  David 
Stuart,  a  young  man  of  spirit  and  resolution.  See- 
ing, as  he  thought,  the  captain  obstinately  bent  upon 
abandoning  his  uncle  and  the  others,  he  seized  a  pistol, 
and  in  a  paroxysm  of  wrath  swore  he  would  blow  out 
the  captain's  brains,  unless  he  put  about  or  shortened 
sail. 

Fortunately  for  all  parties,  the  wind  just  then  came 
ahead,  and  the  boat  was  enabled  to  reach  the  ship; 
otherwise,  disastrous  circumstances  might  have  en- 
sued. We  can  hardly  believe  that  the  captain  really 
intended  to  carry  his  threat  into  full  effect,  and  rather 
think  he  meant  to  let  the  laggards  olif  for  a  long  pull 
and  a  hearty  fright.  He  declared,  however,  in  his  let- 
ter to  Mr.  Astor,  that  he  was  serious  in  his  threats, 
and  there  is  no  knowing  how  far  such  an  iron  man 
may  push  his  notions  of  authority. 

"  Had  the  wind,"  writes  he,  "  (unfortunately)  not 
hauled  ahead  soon  after  leaving  the  harbor's  mouth,  I 
should  positively  have  left  them ;  and,  indeed,  I  can- 
not but  think  it  an  unfortunate  circumstance  for  you 
that  it  so  happened,  for  the  first  loss  in  this  instance 
would,  in  my  opinion,  have  proved  the  best,  as  they 
seem  to  have  no  idea  of  the  value  of  property,  nor  any 
apparent  regard  for  your  interest,  although  interwoven 
with  their  own." 

This,  it  must  be  confessed,  was  acting  with  a  high 
hand,  and  carrying  a  regard  to  the  owner's  property 
to  a  dangerous  length.  Various  petty  feuds  occurred 
also  between  him  and  the  partners  in  respect  to  the 


ASTORIA 


49 


they 


goods  on  board  the  ship,  some  articles  of  which  they 
wished  to  distribute  for  clothing  among  the  men,  or 
for  other  purposes  which  they  deemed  essential.  The 
captain,  however,  kept  a  mastiff  watch  upon  the  cargo, 
and  growled  and  snapped  if  they  bv^t  olTered  to  touch 
box  or  bale.  "  It  was  contrary  to  orders ;  it  would 
forfeit  his  insurance;  it  was  out  of  all  rule."  It 
was  in  vain  they  insisted  upon  their  right  to  do 
so,  as  part  owners,  and  as  acting  for  the  good  of  the 
enterprise;  the  captain  only  stuck  to  his  point  the 
more  stanchly.  They  consoled  themselves,  therefore, 
by  declaring,  that  as  soon  as  they  made  land,  they 
would  assert  their  rights,  and  do  with  ship  and  cargo 
as  they  pleased. 

Beside  these  feuds  between  the  captain  and  the 
partners,  there  were  feuds  between  the  partners  them- 
selves, occasioned,  in  some  measure,  by  jealousy  of 
rank.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kay  began  to  draw  plans  for 
the  fort,  and  other  buildings  of  the  intended  establish- 
ment. They  agreed  very  well  as  to  the  outline  and 
dimensions,  which  were  on  a  sufficiently  grand  scale; 
but  when  they  came  to  arrange  the  details,  fierce  dis- 
putes arose,  and  they  would  quarrel  by  the  hour  about 
the  distribution  of  the  doors  and  windows.  Many 
were  the  hard  words  and  hard  names  bandied  between 
them  on  these  occasions,  according  to  the  captain's 
account.  Each  accused  the  other  of  endeavoring  to 
assume  unwarrantable  power,  and  take  the  lead;  upon 
which  Mr.  M'Dougal  would  vauntingly  lay  down  Mr. 
Astor's  letter,  constituting  him  his  representative  and 
proxy,  a  document  not  to  be  disputed. 

These  wordy  contests,  though  violent,  were  brief; 
"  and  within  fifteen  minutes,"  says  the  captain,  "  they 
would  be  caressing  each  other  like  children." 

While  all  this  petty  anarchy  was  agitating  the  little 
world  within  the  Tonquin,  the  good  ship  prosperously 
pursued  her  course,  doubled  Cape  Horn  on  the  25th 

4 


m 


50 


ASTORIA 


f 


I 


of  December,  careered  across  the  bosom  of  the  Pacific, 
until,  on  the  nth  of  February,  the  snowy  peaks  of 
Owyhee  were  seen  brightening  above  the  horizon. 


CHAPTER    VI 


Owyhee,  or  Hawaii,  as  it  is  written  by  more  exact 
orthographers,  is  the  largest  of  the  cluster,  ten  in 
number,  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  is  about  ninety- 
seven  miles  in  length,  and  seventy-eight  in  breadth, 
rising  gradually  into  three  pyramidal  summits  or 
cones;  the  highest,  Mouna  Roa,  being  eighteen  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  so  as  to  domineer 
over  the  whole  archipelago,  and  to  be  a  landmark  over 
a  wide  extent  of  ocean.  It  remains  a  lasting  monu- 
ment of  the  enterprising  and  unfortunate  Captain 
Cook,  who  was  murdered  by  the  natives  of  this  island. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders,  wdien  first  discovered, 
evinced  a  character  superior  to  most  of  the  savages  of 
the  Pacific  isles.  They  were  frank  and  open  in  their 
deportment,  friendly  and  liberal  in  their  dealings,  with 
an  apt  ingenuity  apparent  in  all  their  rude  inventions. 

The  tragical  fate  of  the  discoverer,  which,  for  a 
time,  brought  them  under  the  charge  of  ferocity,  was, 
in  fact,  the  result  of  sudden  exasperation,  caused  by 
the  seizure  of  their  chief. 

At  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Tonquin,  the  islanders 
had  profited,  in  many  respects,  by  occasional  inter- 
course with  white  men ;  and  had  shown  a  quickness 
to  observe  and  cultivate  those  arts  important  to  their 
mode  of  living.  Originally  they  had  no  means  of  navi- 
gating the  seas  by  which  they  were  surrounded,  su- 
perior to  light  pirogues,  which  were  little  competent 
to  contend  with  the  storms  of  the  broad  ocean.  As 
the  islanders  are  not  in  sight  of  each  other,  there  could, 
therefore,   be  but   casual   intercourse  between   them. 


ASTORIA 


51 


The  traffic  with  white  men  had  put  them  in  possession 
of  vessels  of  superior  description  ;  they  had  made  tliem- 
sclves  acquainted  with  their  management,  and  had 
even  made  rude  advances  in  the  art  of  ship-lniilding. 

These  improvements  had  been  promoted,  in  a  great 
measure,  by  the  energy  and  sagacity  of  one  man,  the 
famous  Tamaahmaali.  He  had  originally  been  a  petty 
eri,  or  chief ;  but,  being  of  an  intrepid  and  aspiring 
nature,  he  had  risen  in  rank,  and,  availing  himself  of 
the  superior  advantages  now  afforded  in  navigation, 
had  brought  the  whole  archipelago  in  subjection  to 
his  arms.  At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Tonquin 
he  had  about  forty  schooners,  of  from  twenty  to  thirty 
tons  burden,  and  one  old  American  ship.  With  these 
he  held  undisputed  sway  over  his  insular  domains,  and 
carried  on  intercourse  with  the  chiefs  or  governors 
whom  he  had  placed  in  command  of  the  several  islands. 

The  situation  of  this  group  of  islands,  far  in  the 
bosom  of  the  vast  Pacific,  and  their  abundant  fertility, 
render  them  important  stopping-places  on  the  highway 
to  China,  or  to  the  northwest  coast  of  America.  Here 
the  vessels  engaged  in  the  fur  trade  touched  to  make 
repairs  and  procure  provisions ;  and  here  they  often 
sheltered  themselves  during  the  winters  that  occurred 
in  their  long  coasting  expeditions. 

The  British  navigators  were,  from  the  first,  aware 
of  the  value  of  these  islands  to  the  purposes  of  com- 
merce; and  Tamaahmaah,  not  long  after  he  had  at- 
tained the  sovereign  sway,  was  persuaded  by  Van- 
couver, the  celebrated  discoverer,  to  acknowledge,  on 
behalf  of  himself  and  subjects,  allegiance  to  the  king 
of  Great  Britain.  The  reader  cannot  but  call  to  mincl 
the  visit  which  the  royal  family  and  court  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  was,  in  late  years,  induced  to  make  to  the 
court  of  St.  James;  and  the  serio-comic  ceremonials 
and  mock  parade  which  attended  that  singular  travesty 
of  monarchal  style. 


52 


ASTORIA 


It  was  a  part  of  the  wide  and  compreliensive  plan  of 
Mr.  Astor  to  estahlisli  a  friendly  intercourse  between 
these  islands  and  his  intended  colony,  which  might,  for 
a  time,  have  occasion  to  draw  su])plics  thence;  and  he 
even  had  a  vague  idea  of,  some  time  or  other,  getting 
possession  of  one  of  their  islands  as  a  rendezvous  for 
his  ships,  and  a  link  in  the  chain  of  his  commercial 
establishments. 

On  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  February,  the  Ton- 
quin  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Karakakooa,  in  the  island 
of  Owyhee.  The  surrounding  shores  were  wild  and 
broken,  with  overhanging  cliffs  and  precipices  of  black 
volcanic  rock.  Beyond  these,  however,  the  country 
was  fertile  and  well  cultivated,  with  enclosures  of 
yams,  plantains,  sweet  potatoes,  sugar-canes,  and  other 
productions  of  warm  climates  and  teeming  soils,  and 
the  numerous  habitations  of  the  natives  were  pleas- 
antly sheltered  beneath  clumps  of  cocoanut  and  bread- 
fruit trees,  which  afforded  l)oth  food  and  shade.  This 
mingled  variety  of  garden  and  grove  swept  gradually 
up  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  until  succeeded  by  dense 
forests,  which  in  turn  gave  place  to  naked  and  craggy 
rocks,  until  the  summits  rose  into  the  regions  of  per- 
petual snow. 

The  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah  was  at  this 
time  at  another  island  named  Woahoo.  The  island 
of  Owyhee  was  under  the  command  of  one  of  his  eris, 
or  chiefs,  who  resided  at  the  village  of  Tocaigh,  situ- 
ated on  a  different  part  of  the  coast  from  the  bay  of 
Karakakooa. 

On  the  morning  after  her  arrival,  the  ship  was  sur- 
rounded by  canoes  and  pirogues,  filled  with  tlie  island- 
ers of  both  sexes,  bringing  off  supplies  of  fruits  and 
vegetables,  bananas,  plantains,  water-melons,  yams, 
cabbages,  and  taro.  The  captain  was  desirous,  how- 
ever, of  purchasing  a  number  of  hogs,  but  there  were 
none  to  be  had.    The  trade  in  pork  was  a  royal  monop- 


ASTORIA 


53 


and 


oly,  and  no  snl)jcct  of  tlie  j^^reat  Tamnahmaah  dared 
to  meddle  with  it.  Such  provisions  as  tliey  could  fur- 
nish, lio\ve\er,  were  hroui^lit  by  the  natives  in  abun- 
dance, and  a  lively  intercourse  was  kept  up  during  the 
day,  in  which  the  women  mingled  in  the  kindest 
manner. 

Tiic  islanders  are  a  comely  race,  of  a  copper  com- 
plexion. The  men  are  tall  and  well  made,  with  forms 
indicating  strength  and  activity;  the  women  vith 
regular  and  occasionally  handsome  features,  and  a 
lascivious  expression,  characteristic  of  their  tempera- 
ment. Their  style  of  dress  was  nearly  the  same  as 
in  the  days  of  Cai)tain  Cook.  The  men  wore  the  maro, 
a  band  one  foot  in  width  and  several  feet  in  length, 
swathed  round  the  loins,  and  formed  of  tappa,  or  cloth 
of  bark;  the  kihei,  or  mantle,  about  six  feet  square, 
tied  in  a  knot  over  one  shoulder,  passed  under  the  op- 
posite arm,  so  as  to  leave  it  bare,  and  falling  in  grace- 
ful folds,  before  and  behind,  to  the  knee,  so  as  to  bear 
some  resemblance  to  a  Roman  toga. 

The  female  dress  consisted  of  the  pan.  a  garment 
formed  of  a  piece  of  tappa,  several  yards  in  length  and 
one  in  width,  wrapped  round  the  waist,  and  reaching 
like  a  petticoat,  to  the  knees.  Over  this  a  kihei  or 
mantle,  larger  than  that  of  the  men,  sometimes  worn 
over  both  shoulders,  like  a  shawl,  sometimes  over  one 
only.  These  mantles  were  seldom  worn  by  either  sex 
during  the  heat  of  the  day,  when  the  exposure  of  their 
persons  was  at  first  very  revolting  to  a  civilized  eye. 

Towards  evening  several  of  the  partners  and  clerks 
went  on  shore,  where  they  were  well  received  and 
hospitably  entertained.  A  dance  was  performed  for 
their  amusement,  in  which  nineteen  young  women  and 
one  man  figured  very  gracefully,  singing  in  concert, 
and  moving  to  the  cadence  of  their  song. 

All  this,  however,  was  nothing  to  the  purpose  in 
the  eyes  of  Captain  Thorn,  who,  being  disappointed 


54 


ASTORIA 


in  his  hope  of  ohtainincf  a  supply  of  i)ork,  or  finding 
good  water,  was  anxious  to  be  off.  Tliis  it  was  not 
so  easy  to  effect.  The  passengers,  once  on  shore,  were 
disposed,  as  usual,  to  profit  by  the  occasion.  The 
partners  had  many  inquiries  to  make  relative  to  the 
island,  with  a  view  to  business;  while  the  young  clerks 
were  delighted  with  the  charms  and  graces  of  the 
dancing  damsels. 

To  add  to  their  gratifications,  an  old  man  offered 
to  conduct  them  to  the  spot  where  Captain  Cook  was 
massacred.  The  i)roposition  was  eagerly  accepted,  and 
all  hauvls  set  out  on  a  pilgrimage  to  the  place.  The 
veteran  islander  performed  his  promise  faithfully,  and 
pointed  out  the  very  spot  where  the  unfortunate  dis- 
coverer fell.  The  rocks  and  cocoa-trees  around  bore 
record  of  the  fact,  in  the  marks  of  the  balls  fired  from 
the  boats  upon  the  savages.  The  pilgrims  gathered 
round  the  old  man,  and  drew  from  him  all  the  particu- 
lars he  had  to  relate  respecting  this  memorable  event; 
while  the  honest  captain  stood  by  and  bit  his  nails 
with  impatience.  To  add  to  his  vexation,  they  em- 
ployed themselves  in  knocking  off  pieces  of  the  rocks, 
and  cutting  off  the  bark  of  the  trees  marked  by  the 
balls,  which  they  conveyed  back  to  the  ship  as  precious 
relics. 

Right  glad,  therefore,  was  he  to  get  them  and  their 
treasures  fairly  on  board,  when  he  made  sail  from  this 
unprofitable  place,  and  steered  for  the  Bay  of  Tocaigh, 
the  residence  of  the  chief  or  governor  of  the  island, 
where  he  hoped  to  be  more  successful  in  obtaining 
supplies.  On  coming  to  anchor  the  captain  went  on 
shore,  accompanied  by  Mr.  M'Dougal  and  Mr.  M'Kay, 
and  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor.  This  dignitary  proved 
to  be  an  old  sailor,  by  the  name  of  John  Young;  who, 
after  being  tossed  about  the  seas  like  another  Sinbad, 
had,  by  one  of  the  whimsical  freaks  of  fortune,  been 
elevated  to  the  government  of  a  savage  island.     He 


ASTORIA 


55 


their 

this 

aigh, 

and, 


received  his  visitors  with  more  hearty  familiarity  than 
personages  in  his  high  station  are  apt  to  indulrifc.  hut 
soon  gave  them  to  understand  that  j)r()visi(Mis  were 
scanty  at  Tocaigh,  and  that  there  was  no  good  water, 
no  rain  having  fallen  in  the  neighborhood  in  three 
years. 

The  captain  was  immediately  for  breaking  up  the 
conference  and  departing,  but  the  partner ^  were  not 
so  willing  to  part  with  the  nautical  governor,  who 
seemed  disposed  to  be  extremely  communicative,  and 
from  whom  they  might  be  able  to  procure  some  useful 
information.  A  long  conversation  accordingly  ensued, 
in  the  course  of  which  they  made  many  inquiries  alxjut 
the  affairs  of  the  islands,  their  natural  productions, 
and  the  possibility  of  turning  them  to  advantage  in 
the  way  of  trade;  nor  did  they  fail  to  inquire  into  the 
individual  history  of  John  Young,  and  how  he  came 
to  be  governor.  This  he  gave  with  great  condescen- 
sion, running  through  the  whole  course  of  his  fortunes 
"  even  from  his  boyish  days." 

He  vvas  a  native  of  Liverpool,  in  England,  and  had 
followed  the  sea  from  boyhood,  until,  by  dint  of  good 
conduct,  he  had  risen  so  far  in  his  profession  as  to  be 
boatswain  of  an  American  ship  called  the  Eleanor, 
commanded  by  Captain  Metcalf.  In  this  vessel  he  had 
sailed  in  1789,  on  one  of  those  casual  expeditions  to 
the  northwest  coast,  in  quest  of  furs.  In  the  course 
of  the  voyage,  the  captain  left  a  small  schooner,  named 
the  Fair  American,  at  Nootka,  with  a  crew  of  five  men, 
commanded  by  his  son,  a  youth  of  eighteen.  She  was 
to  follow  on  in  the  track  of  the  Eleanor. 

In  February,  1790,  Captain  Metcalf  touched  at 
the  island  of  Mowee,  one  of  the  Sandwich  group. 
While  anchored  here,  a  boat  which  was  astern  of  the 
Eleanor  was  stolen,  and  a  seaman  who  was  in  it  was 
killed.  The  natives,  generally,  disclaimed  the  out- 
rage, and  brought  the  shattered  remains  of  the  boat 


5^ 


ASTORIA 


and  the  dead  body  of  the  seaman  to  the  sliip.  Sup- 
l)osing  that  they  had  thus  appeased  the  anger  of  the 
captain,  they  thronged,  as  usual,  in  great  numbers 
about  the  vessel,  to  fade.  Captain  Metcalf,  however, 
determined  on  a  bloody  revenge.  The  Eleanor 
mounted  ten  guns.  All  these  he  ordered  to  be  loaded 
with  musket-balls,  nails,  and  pieces  of  old  iron,  and 
then  fired  them,  and  the  small  arms  of  the  ship,  among 
the  natives.  The  havoc  was  dreadful;  more  than  a 
hundred,  according  to  Young's  acctnint,  were  slain. 

After  this  signal  act  of  vengeance.  Captain  Met- 
calf sailed  from  Mowee,  and  made  for  the  island  of 
Owyhee,  wliere  he  was  well  received  by  Tamaalimaah. 
The  fortunes  of  this  warlike  chief  were  at  that  time 
on  the  rise.  He  had  originally  been  of  inferior  rank, 
ruling  over  only  one  or  two  districts  of  Owyhee,  but 
had  gradually  made  himself  sovereign  of  his  native 
island. 

The  Eleanor  remained  some  few  days  at  anchor 
here,  and  an  apparently  friendly  intercourse  was  kept 
up  with  the  inhabitants.  On  the  17th  March,  John 
Young  obtained  permission  to  pass  the  night  on  shore. 
On  the  following  morning  a  signal-gun  summoned 
him  to  return  on  board. 

He  went  to  the  shore  to  embark,  but  found  all  the 
canoes  hauled  up  on  the  beach  and  rigorously  tabooed, 
or  interdicted.  He  would  have  launched  one  himself, 
but  was  informed  by  Tamaalimaah  that  if  he  pre- 
sumed to  do  so  he  would  be  put  to  death. 

Young  was  obliged  to  submit,  a'.id  remained  all  day 
in  great  perplexity  to  account  for  this  mysterious 
taboo,  and  fearful  that  some  hostility  was  intended. 
In  the  evening  he  learned  the  cause  of  it,  and  his  un- 
easiness was  increased.  It  api)cared  that  the  vindictive 
act  of  Captain  Metcalf  had  recoiled  upon  his  own  head. 
The  schooner  Eair  American,  commanded  by  his  son, 
{oUowing  in  his  track,  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the 


ASTORIA 


57 


f  the 


natives  to  the  southward  of  Tocaio^h  Bay,  and  young 
Metcalf  and  four  of  the  crew  had  heen  massacred. 

On  receiving  intelhgence  of  this  event,  'J^uiiaali- 
niaah  had  immcchately  tahooed  all  the  canoes,  and 
interdicted  all  intercourse  with  the  ship,  lest  the  cap- 
tain should  learn  the  fate  of  the  schooner,  and  take 
his  revenge  upon  the  island.  For  the  same  reason  he 
prevented  Young  from  rejoining  his  countrymen.  The 
Eleanor  continued  to  fire  signals  from  time  to  time 
for  two  days,  and  then  sailed ;  concluding,  no  doubt, 
that  the  boatswain  had  deserted. 

John  Young  was  in  despair  when  he  saw  the  ship 
make  sail,  and  found  himself  abandoned  among  sav- 
ages;—  and  savages,  too,  sanguinary  in  their  charac- 
ter, and  inllamed  by  acts  of  hostility,  lie  was  agree- 
ably disappointed,  however,  in  experiencing  nothing 
but  kind  treatment  from  Tamaahmaah  and  his  people. 
It  is  true,  he  was  narrowly  watched  whenever  a  vessel 
came  in  sight,  lest  he  should  escape  and  relate  what 
had  passed;  but  at  ^^'^er  times  he  was  treated  with 
entire  confidence  and  great  distinction.  He  became  a 
prime  favorite,  cabinet  counsellor,  and  active  coadjut(jr 
of  Tamaahmaah,  attending  him  in  all  his  excursions, 
whether  of  business  or  pleasure,  and  aiding  in  his 
warlike  and  ambitious  enterprises.  By  degrees  he  rose 
to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  espoused  one  of  the  beauties  of 
the  island,  and  became  habituated  and  reconciled  to 
his  new  way  of  life;  thinking  it  better,  perhaps,  to  rule 
among  savages  than  serve  among  white  men;  to  be 
a  feathered  chief  than  a  tarpaulin  boatswain.  His 
favor  with  Tamaahmaah  never  declined;  and  when 
that  sagacious,  intrei)id,  and  aspiring  chieftain  had 
made  himself  sovereign  over  the  whole  group  of  is- 
lands, and  removed  his  residence  to  Woahoo,  he  left 
his  faithful  adherent  John  Young  in  command  of 
Owyhee. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  the  history  of  Governor  Young, 


58 


ASTORIA 


as  furnished  by  himself;  and  we  regret  that  we  are 
not  able  to  p^ive  any  account  of  the  state  maintained 
by  this  seafarinj^  worthy,  and  the  manner  in  which  he 
discharged  his  high  functions;  though  it  is  evident 
he  had  more  of  the  hearty  familiarity  of  the  forecastle 
than  the  dignity  of  the  gubernatorial  office. 

These  long  conferences  were  bitter  trials  to  the  pa- 
tience of  the  captain,  who  had  no  rcsi)ect  either  for 
the  governor  or  his  island,  and  was  anxious  to  push  on 
in  quest  of  provisions  and  water.  As  soon  as  he  could 
get  his  inquisiti\c  partners  once  more  on  board,  he 
weighed  anchor,  and  made  sail  for  the  island  of  Woa- 
hoo,  the  royal  residence  of  Tamaahmaah., 

This  is  the  most  beautiful  island  of  the  Sandwich 
group.  It  is  forty-six  miles  in  length  and  twenty-three 
in  breadth.  A  ridge  of  volcanic  mountains  extends 
through  the  centre,  rising  into  lofty  peaks,  and  skirted 
by  undulating  hills  and  rich  plains,  wliere  the  cabins 
of  the  natives  peep  out  from  beneath  groves  of  cocoa- 
nut  and  other  luxuriant  trees. 

On  the  2 1st  of  Fel)ruary  the  Tonquin  cast  anchor 
in  the  beautiful  bay  before  the  village  of  Waititi,  (pro- 
nounced Whyteetee.)  the  abode  of  Tamaahmaah.  fhis 
village  contained  about  two  hundred  habitations,  com- 
posed of  poles  set  in  the  ground,  tied  together  at  the 
ends,  and  thatched  with  grass,  and  was  situated  in  an 
open  grove  of  cocoanuts.  The  royal  palace  of  Ta- 
maahmaah was  a  large  house  of  two  stories ;  the  lower 
of  stone,  the  upper  of  wood.  Round  this  his  body- 
guard kept  watch,  composed  of  twenty-four  men,  in 
long  blue  cassocks  turned  up  with  yellow,  and  each 
armed  with  a  musket. 

While  at  anchor  at  this  place,  much  ceremonious  vis- 
iting and  long  conferences  took  place  between  the  ])o- 
tentate  of  the  islands  and  the  partners  of  the  company. 
Tamaahmaah  came  on  board  of  the  ship  in  royal  style, 
in  his  double  pirogue.    He  was  between  fifty  and  sixty 


ASTORIA 


59 


VIS- 
|)0- 

iny. 
yle, 
xty 


years  of  age,  above  the  middle  size,  large  and  well 
made,  though  somewhat  corpulent.  He  was  dressed 
in  an  old  suit  of  regimentals,  with  a  sword  by  his  side, 
and  seemed  somewhat  embarrassed  by  his  magnificent 
attire.  Three  of  his  wives  accompanied  him.  They 
were  almost  as  tall,  and  quite  as  corpulent  as  himself; 
but  by  no  means  to  be  compared  with  him  in  grandeur 
of  habiliments,  wearing  no  otiier  garl)  than  the  pan. 
With  him,  also,  came  his  great  favorite  and  confiden- 
tial counsellor,  Kraimaker;  who,  from  holding  a  post 
equivalent  to  that  of  prime  minister,  had  been  famil- 
iarly named  Billy  Pitt  by  the  British  visitors  to  tl.e 
islands. 

The  sovereign  was  received  with  befitting  cere- 
monial. The  American  flag  was  dis])layed,  four  gu" 
were  fired,  and  the  partners  appeared  in  scarlet  coa;s, 
and  conc^ucted  their  illustrious  guests  to  the  cabin, 
whore  they  were  regaled  with  wine.  In  this  interview 
the  partners  endeavored  to  impress  the  monarch  with  a 
sense  of  their  importance,  and  of  the  importance  of 
the  association  to  which  they  belonged.  They  let  him 
know  that  they  were  eris,  or  chiefs,  of  a  great  com- 
pany about  to  be  established  on  the  northwest  coast, 
and  talked  of  the  probability  of  opening  a  trade  with 
his  islands,  and  of  sending  shij)S  there  occasionally. 
All  this  was  gratifying  and  interesting  to  him,  for  he 
was  aware  of  the  advantages  of  trade,  and  desirous 
of  promoting  frequent  intercourse  with  white  men. 
He  encouraged  Europeans  and  Americans  to  settle  in 
his  islands  and  intermarry  with  his  subjects.  There 
were  between  twenty  and  thirty  white  men  at  tliat  time 
resident  in  the  island,  but  many  of  them  wcve  mere 
vagabonds,  who  remained  there  in  hopes  of  leading  a 
lazy  and  an  easy  life.  For  such  Tamaahmaah  had  a 
great  contempt ;  those  only  had  his  esteem  and  counte- 
nance who  knew  some  trade  or  mechanic  art,  and  were 
sober  and  industrious. 


I 


6o 


ASTORIA 


On  the  clay  sul)seqiicnt  to  tlie  monarch's  visit,  the 
partners  landed  and  waited  upon  him  in  return.  Know- 
ing the  effect  of  show  and  (h'ess  upon  men  in  savage 
Hfe,  and  wisliing  to  make  a  favorahle  impression  as 
the  cris,  or  chiefs,  of  the  great  Americar  Fur  Com- 
pany, some  of  tliem  appeared  in  Highland  plaids  and 
kilts,  to  the  great  admiration  of  the  natives. 

While  visits  of  ceremony  and  grand  diplomatic  con- 
ferences were  going  on  between  tlie  j)artners  and  the 
king,  the  captain,  in  his  plain,  matter-of-fact  way,  was 
pushing  what  he  considered  a  far  more  important  ne- 
gotiation ;  the  purchase  of  a  sup])ly  of  hogs,  lie  found 
that  the  king  had  profited  in  more  ways  than  one  by 
his  intercourse  with  white  men.  Above  all  other  arts 
he  had  learned  the  art  of  driving  a  bargain.  He  was  a 
magnanimous  monarch,  but  a  shrewd  pork  merchant ; 
and  perhaps  thought  he  could  not  do  better  with  bis 
future  allies,  the  American  Fur  Company,  than  to  be- 
gin by  close  dealing.  Several  interviews  were  requi- 
site, and  much  bargaining,  bef(^re  he  could  be  brought 
to  part  with  a  bristle  of  his  bacon,  and  then  he  insisted 
upon  being  paid  in  hard  Spanish  dollars ;  giving  as 
a  reason  that  he  wanted  money  to  purchase  a  frigate 
from  his  brother  George,  as  he  affectionately  termed 
the  king  of  England.^ 


'  Tt  appears,  from  the  accounts  of  subsequent  voyagers,  that 
Taniaahinaah  afterwards  succeevled  in  his  wish  of  purchasing  a 
large  ship.  In  tiiis  lie  setit  a  car;^r,  of  sandal-wood  to  Canton, 
having  discovered  that  the  foreign  merchants  trading  with  him 
made  large  protits  on  this  wood,  shipped  by  them  from  the  islands 
to  the  Chinese  markets.  1  he  ship  was  maimed  by  natives,  but  tlic 
otil'icers  wc-e  Knglishmen.  Sh*-  accomplishetl  her  voyage,  and  re- 
turned in  safety  to  the  islands,  with  the  Hawaiian  Hag  iloating 
gloriously  in  the  breeze.  The  king  hastened  on  board,  expecting 
to  liiid  his  sandal-wood  converted  into  crapes  and  damasks,  and 
other  rich  stuffs  of  China,  but  found,  to  his  astonishment,  by  the 
legerdemain  of  traffic,  his  eargo  had  all  disappeared,  and,  in  place 
of  it.  remaiiud  a  bill  of  charges  amounting  to  three  thousand 
doUars.  It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  made  to  comi)re- 
hciid   certain   of   the  most   important  items  of  the   bill,   such   as 


ASTORIA 


6i 


At  length  the  royal  liarga.  i  was  concluded ;  the 
necessary  supply  of  hogs  obiained,  beside  several 
goats,  two  slieep,  a  quantity  of  poultry,  and  vegetables 
in  abundance.  The  partners  now  urged  to  recruit  their 
forces  from  the  natives  of  this  island.  They  declared 
they  had  never  seen  watermen  e(|ual  to  thcni,  even 
anKjng  the  voyageurs  of  the  Northwest;  and,  indeed, 
they  are  remarkable  for  their  skill  in  managing  their 
light  craft,  and  can  swim  and  (h\e  like  waterfowl.  The 
partners  were  inclined,  therefore,  to  take  thirty  or  forty 
with  them  to  the  Columbia,  to  be  employed  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  company.  The  captain,  however,  objected 
that  there  was  not  room  in  his  vessel  for  the  accomnu^- 
clation  of  such  a  number.  Twelve,  only,  were  therefore 
enlisied  for  the  company,  and  as  many  more  for  the 
service  of  the  ship.  The  former  engaged  to  serve  for 
the  term  of  three  years,  diu'ing  which  they  were  to  l>e 
fed  and  clothed ;  and  at  the  expiration  of  the  time  were 
to  receive  one  hundred  dollars  in  merchandise. 

And  now,  having  embarked  his  live-stock,  fruits, 
vegetables,  and  water,  the  captain  made  ready  in  set 
sail.  How  much  the  honest  man  had  suffered  in  spirit 
by  what  he  considered  the  freaks  and  vagaries  of  h.is 
passengers,  and  how  little  he  had  understood  their 
humors  and  intentions,  is  amusingly  shown  in  a  letter 
written  to  Mr.  Astor  from  Woalioo,  which  contains 
his  comments  on  the  scenes  we  have  descri])ed. 

*'  It  would  be  diflicult,"  he  writes,  "  to  imagine  the 
frantic  gambols  that  are  daily  played  off  here,  some- 
times uressing  in  red  coats,  and  otherwise  very  fan- 
pilotage  anchorage,  ami  custom-house  fees;  but  when  he  discov- 
crcfl  that  maritime  states  in  other  countries  derived  large  revemies 
in  this  maiuier,  to  the  great  cost  of  the  merchant,  "  Well,"  cried 
he,  "  then  1  will  have  harhor  fees  also."  Me  established  them  ac- 
cordingly. Pilotage  a  dt)nar  a  foot  on  the  draft  of  each  vessel. 
Anchorage  from  sixty  to  seventy  dollars.  In  this  way  he  greatly 
increased  the  royal  revenue,  and  turned  his  Ch.ina  speculation  to 
account. 


62 


ASTORIA 


!    f 


tastically,  and  collecting-  a  number  of  ignorant  nativ^es 
around  them,  telling-  them  that  they  are  the  great  cares 
of  the  Northwest,  and  making-  arrangements  for  send- 
ing three  or  four  vessels  yearly  to  them  from  the  coast 
with  spars,  &c. ;  while  those  very  natives  cannot  even 
furnish  a  hog  to  the  ship.  Then  dressing  in  High- 
land plaids  and  kilts,  and  making  similar  arrangements, 
with  presents  of  rum,  wine,  or  anything  that  is  at  hand. 
Then  taking  a  number  of  clerks  and  men  on  shore  to 
the  very  spot  on  which  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  and 
each  fetching  off  a  piece  of  the  rock  or  tree  tliat  was 
touched  by  the  shot.  Then  sitting  down  with  some 
white  man  or  some  native  who  can  be  a  little  under- 
stood, and  collecting  the  h'story  of  those  islands,  of 
Tamaahmaah's  wars,  the  curiosities  of  the  islands,  &c., 
preparatory  to  the  histories  of  their  voyages ;  and  the 
C'^llrxtion  is  indeed  ridiculously  contemptible.  To 
enumerate  the  thousand  instances  of  ignorance,  filth, 
&c.,  or  to  particularize  all  the  frantic  gambols  that  are 
daily  practised,  would  require  volumes." 

Before  embarking,  the  great  eris  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  took  leave  of  their  illustrious  ally  in  due 
style,  with  many  professions  of  lasting  friendship  and 
promises  of  future  intercourse;  while  the  matter-of- 
fact  captain  anathematized  him  in  his  heart  for  a 
grasping,  trafficking  savage;  as  shrewd  and  sordid  in 
liis  dealings  ps  a  white  man.  A5  one  of  the  vessels  of 
the  company  will,  in  the  course  of  events,  have  to 
appeal  to  the  justice  and  magnanimity  of  this  island 
potentate,  we  shall  see  how  far  the  honest  captain  was 
right  in  his  opinion. 


ASTORIA 


63 


CHAPTER   VII 


a 

in 


It  was  on  the  28th  of  February  that  the  Tonqiiin  set 
sail  from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  For  two  days  tlic 
wind  was  contrary,  and  the  vessel  was  detained  in 
their  neighborhood;  at  length  a  favorable  breeze 
sprang  up,  and  in  a  little  while  the  rich  groves, 
green  hills,  and  snowy  peaks  of  those  happy  islands 
one  after  another  sank  from  sight,  or  melted  into  the 
blue  distance,  and  the  Tonquin  ploughed  her  course 
towards  the  sterner  regions  of  the  Pacific. 

The  misunderstandings  between  the  captain  and  his 
passengers  still  continued;  or  rather,  increased  in 
gravity.  By  his  altercav.ions  and  his  moody  humors, 
he  had  cut  himself  off  from  all  community  of  thought, 
or  freedom  of  conversation  with  them.  He  disdained 
to  ask  any  questions  as  to  their  proceedings,  and  could 
only  guess  at  the  meaning  of  their  movements,  and  in 
so  doing  indulged  in  conjectures  and  suspicions,  which 
produced  the  most  whimsical  self-torment. 

Thus,  in  one  of  his  disputes  with  them,  relative  to 
the  goods  on  board,  some  of  the  packages  of  which 
they  wished  to  open,  to  take  out  articles  of  clothing  iov 
the  men  or  presents  for  the  natives,  he  was  so  harsh 
and  peremptory  that  they  lost  all  i)atience,  and  hinted 
that  they  were  the  strongest  party,  and  might  reduce 
him  to  a  very  ridiculous  dilemma,  by  taking  from  him 
the  command. 

A  thought  now  flashed  across  the  captain's  mind 
that  they  really  had  a  design  to  depose  him,  and  that, 
having  picked  up  some  information  at  Owyhee,  pos- 
sibly of  war  between  the  United  States  and  England, 
they  meant  to  alter  the  destination  of  the  voyage; 
perhaps  to  seize  upon  ship  and  cargo  for  their  own 
use. 


i 


64 


ASTORIA 


Once  having  conceived  tliis  suspicion,  everything 
went  to  foster  it.  They  had  distributed  hre-arnis 
among  some  of  their  men,  a  common  precaution 
among  the  fur  traders  wlien  minghng  with  the  na- 
tives. This,  liowever,  looked  like  preparation.  Then 
several  of  the  partners  and  clerks  and  some  of  the 
men,  being  Scotsmen,  were  acquainted  with  the  Gaelic, 
and  held  long  conversations  together  in  that  language. 
These  conversations  were  considered  by  the  captain  of 
a  "  mysterious  and  unwarrantable  nature,"  and  related, 
no  doubt,  to  some  iuu\  conspiracy  that  was  brewing 
among  them.  lie  frankly  avows  such  suspicions,  in 
his  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  but  intimates  that  he  stood 
ready  to  resist  any  treasonous  outbreak;  and  seems 
to  think  that  the  evidence  of  preparation  on  his  part 
had  an  effect  in  overawing  the  conspirators. 

llie  fact  is,  as  we  have  since  been  informed  by  one 
of  the  parties,  it  was  a  mischievous  pleasure  with  some 
of  the  partners  and  clerks,  who  were  young  men,  to 
play  upon  the  suspicious  temper  and  splenetic  humors 
of  the  captain.  To  this  we  may  ascribe  many  of  their 
whimsical  pranks  and  absurd  propositions,  and,  above 
all,  their  mysterious  colloquies  in  Gaelic. 

In  this  sore  and  irritable  mood  did  the  captain 
pursue  his  course,  keeping  a  wary  eye  on  ever)' 
movement,  and  bristling  up  whenever  the  detested 
sound  of  the  Gaelic  language  grated  upon  his 
ear.  Nothing  occurred,  however,  materially  to  dis- 
turb the  residue  of  the  voyage  excepting  a  violent 
storm;  and  on  the  twenty-second  of  March,  the 
Tonquin  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oregon,  or 
Columbia   River. 

'J'he  aspect  of  the  river  and  the  adjacent  coast  was 
wild  and  dangerous.  The  mouth  of  the  Columbia  is 
upwards  of  four  miles  wide  with  a  peninsula  and  prom- 
ontory on  one  side,  and  a  long  low-spit  of  land  on 
the  other;    between  which  a  sand  bar  and  chain  of 


ASTORIA 


6S 


breakers  almost  Ijlock  up  the  entrance.  The  interior 
of  the  country  rises  into  successive  rani^es  of  moun- 
tains, which,  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  tiie  ron([uin, 
were  covered  with  snow. 

A  fresh  wind  from  the  northwest  sent  a  roug;h  tum- 
bling sea  upon  the  coast,  wliich  broke  ui)on  tlie  bar 
in  furious  surges,  and  extended  a  sheet  of  foam  almost 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Under  these  circum- 
stances the  captain  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  approach 
witiiin  three  leagues,  until  the  bar  should  be  sounded 
and  the  channel  ascertained.  Mr.  Vox,  the  chief  mate, 
was  ordered  to  this  service  in  the  whaleboat,  accom- 
pauif  1  by  John  Martin,  an  old  seaman,  who  had  for- 
merly visited  the  river,  and  by  three  Canadians.  Vok 
recpiested  to  have  regular  sailors  to  man  the  boat,  but 
the  captain  would  not  spare  them  from  the  service  of 
the  ship,  and  suppo.sed  the  Canadians,  being  exi)ert 
boatmen  on  lakes  and  rivers,  were  competent  to  the 
service,  especially  when  directed  and  aided  by  Fox 
and  Martin.  Fox  seems  to  have  lost  all  tirmness  of 
spirit  on  the  occasion,  and  to  have  regarded  the  ser- 
vice with  a  misgiving  heart.  He  came  to  the  partners 
for  sympathy,  knowing  their  differences  with  the  cap- 
tain, and  the  tears  were  in  his  eyes  as  he  represented 
his  case.  "  1  am  sent  off,"  said  he,  "  without  seamen 
to  man  my  boat,  in  boisterous  weatlier,  and  on  the  most 
dangerous  part  of  the  northwest  coast.  My  uncle  was 
lost  a  few  years  ago  on  this  same  bar,  and  I  am  now 
going  to  lay  my  bones  alongside  of  his."  The  partners 
sympathized  in  his  appreliensions.  and  remonstrated 
with  the  captain.  The  latter,  however,  was  not  to  be 
moved.  He  had  been  displeased  with  Mr.  Fox  in  t'.ie 
earlier  part  of  the  voyage,  considering  him  indi/Icut 
and  inactive;  and  probably  thought  his  present  re- 
pugnance arc^se  from  a  want  of  true  nautical  spirit. 
The  interference  of  the  partners  in  the  business  of  the 
ship,  also,  was  not  calculated  to  have  a  favorable  effect 


M 


a 


66 


AFTORIA 


' 


on  a  stickler  for  aiitliority  like  himself,  especially  in 
his  actual  state  of  feeling-  towards  thcni. 

At  one  o'clock,  p.  m..  therefore.  Vox  and  his  com- 
rades set  ol'f  in  the  whalebuat,  which  is  represented  as 
small  in  size,  and  crazy  in  condition.  All  eyes  were 
strained  after  the  little  bark  as  it  pulled  for  shore, 
rising"  and  sinkinj^  with  the  huge  rolling  waves,  until 
it  entered,  a  mere  speck,  among  the  ff)aming  breakers, 
and  was  soon  lost  to  view,  luening-  set  in.  night  suc- 
ceeded and  passed  away,  and  morning  returned,  but 
witiiout  the  return  of  the  boat. 

As  the  wind  had  moderated,  the  ship  stood  near  to 
the  land,  so  as  to  command  a  view  of  the  river's  mouth. 
Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a  wild  chaos  of  tumbling 
waves  breaking-  upon  the  bar,  and  apparently  forming 
a  foaming  barrier  from  shore  to  shore.  Towards  night 
the  ship  again  stood  out  to  g"ain  sea-room,  and  a  gloom 
was  visible  in  every  countenance.  The  captain  him- 
self shared  in  the  general  anxiety,  and  probably  re- 
pented of  his  peremptory  orders.  Another  weary  and 
watchful  nig-ht  succeeded,  during-  which  the  wind  sub- 
sided, and  the  weather  became  serene. 

On  the  following  day,  the  ship  having-  drifted  near 
the  land,  anchored  in  fourteen  fathoms  water,  to 
the  northward  of  the  long  peninsula  or  promontory 
which  forms  the  north  side  of  the  entrance,  and  is 
called  Cape  Disappointment.  The  pinnace  was  then 
manned,  and  two  of  the  partners,  Mr.  David  Stuart 
and  Mr.  M'Kay,  set  off  in  the  hope  of  learning-  some- 
thing- of  the  fate  of  the  whaleboat.  The  surf,  how- 
ever, broke  with  such  violence  along  the  shore  that 
they  could  find  no  landing  place.  Several  of  the  na- 
tives appeared  on  the  beach  and  made  signs  to  them 
to  row  round  the  cape,  but  they  thought  it  most  pru- 
dent to  return  to  the  ship. 

The  wind  now  springing  up,  the  Tonquin  got  under 
way,  and  stood  in  to  seek  the  channel ;  but  was  again 


ASTORIA 


67 


deterred  by  the  frii^litful  aspect  of  tlie  breakers,  from 
venturing  within  a  league.  Here  she  hove  to;  and 
Mr.  Ivlnmford.  the  second  mate,  was  chspatched  witli 
four  liands,  in  the  pinnace,  to  sound  across  the  channel 
until  he  should  find  four  fathoms  lepth.  The  ])innace 
entered  among  the  breakers,  but  was  near  being  lost, 
and  with  difticulty  got  back  to  the  ship.  The  captain 
insisted  that  Mr.  Mum  ford  had  steered  too  mi-.ch  to 
the  southward.  He  now  turned  to  Mr.  Aiken,  an  able 
mariner,  destined  to  command  the  schooner  intended 
for  the  coasting  trade,  and  ordered  him,  together  with 
John  Coles,  sail-maker,  Stephen  W'eekes,  armorer,  and 
two  Sandwich  Islanders,  to  proceed  ahead  and  take 
soundings,  while  the  shi[)  should  follow  under  easy 
sail.  In  this  way  they  prcjceeded  until  Aiken  had 
ascertained  the  channel,  when  signal  was  given  from 
the  ship  for  him  to  leturn  on  board.  He  was  then 
within  pistol  shot,  but  so  furious  was  the  current,  and 
tumultuous  the  breakers,  that  the  boat  became  unman- 
ageable, and  was  hurried  away,  the  crew  crying  out 
piteously  for  assistance.  In  a  few  moments  she  could 
not  be  seen  from  the  ship's  deck.  Some  of  the  ])as- 
sengers  climl)ed  to  the  mizzen  top,  and  beheld  her 
still  strugg]  iig  to  reach  the  ship;  but  shortly  after  she 
broached  broadside  to  the  waves,  and  her  case  seemed 
desiderate.  The  attention  of  those  on  board  of  the  ship 
was  now  called  to  their  own  safety.  They  were  in 
shallow  w^ater;  the  vessel  struck  repeatedly,  the  waves 
broke  over  her,  and  there  was  danger  of  her  founder- 
ing. At  length  she  got  into  seven  fathoms  w'ater,  and 
the  wind  lulling,  and  the  night  coming  on,  cast  anchor. 
With  the  darkness  their  anxieties  increased.  The  wind 
whistled,  the  sea  roared,  the  gloom  was  only  broken 
by  the  ghastly  glare  of  the  foaming  breakers,  the 
minds  of  the  seamen  were  full  of  dreary  apprehen- 
sions, and  some  of  them  fancied  they  heard  the  cries 
of  their   lost  comrades  mingling  with  the  uproar  of 


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Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


68 


ASTORIA 


I 
i  J 


the  elements.  For  a  time,  too,  the  rapidly  ebbing  tide 
threatened  to  sweep  them  from  their  precarious  an- 
chorage. At  length  the  reflux  of  the  tide,  and  the 
springing  up  of  the  wind,  enabled  them  to  quit  their 
dangerous  situation  and  take  shelter  in  a  small  bay 
within  Cape  Disappointment,  where  they  rode  in  safety 
during  the  residue  of  a  stormy  night,  and  enjoyed  a 
brief  interval  of  refreshing  sleep. 

With  the  light  of  day  returned  their  cares  and  anx- 
ieties. They  looked  out  from  the  mast-head  over  a 
wild  coast,  and  wilder  sea,  but  could  discover  no  trace 
of  the  two  boats  and  their  crews  that  were  missing. 
Several  of  the  natives  came  on  board  with  peltries,  but 
there  was  no  disposition  to  trade.  They  were  inter- 
rogated by  signs  after  the  lost  boats,  but  could  not 
understand  the  inquiries. 

Parties  now  went  on  shore  and  scoured  the  neigh- 
borhood. One  of  these  was  headed  by  the  captain. 
They  had  not  proceeded  far  when  they  beheld  a  per- 
son at  a  distance  in  civilized  garb.  As  he  drew  near 
he  proved  to  be  Weekes,  the  armorer.  There  was  a 
burst  of  joy,  for  it  was  hoped  his  comrades  w^ere  near 
at  hand.  His  story,  however,  was  one  of  disaster. 
He  and  his  companions  had  found  it  impossible  to 
govern  their  boat,  having  no  rudder,  and  being  beset 
by  rapid  and  whirling  currents  and  boisterous  surges. 
After  long  struggling  they  had  let  her  go  at  the  mercy 
of  the  weaves,  tossing  about,  sometimes  with  her  bow, 
sometimes  with  her  broadside  to  the  surges,  threatened 
each  instant  with  destruction,  yet  repeatedly  escaping, 
until  a  huge  sea  broke  over  and  swamped  her.  Weekes 
was  overwhelmed  by  the  boiling  waves,  but  emerging 
above  the  surface,  looked  round  for  his  companions. 
Aiken  and  Coles  were  not  to  be  seen;  near  him  were 
the  two  Sandwich  Islanders,  stripping  themselves  of 
their  clothing  that  they  might  swim  more  freely.  He 
did  the  same,  and  the  boat  floating  near  to  him  he 


ASTORIA 


69 


of 
he 


seized  hold  of  it.  The  two  islanders  joined  him,  and, 
uniting  their  forces,  they  succeeded  in  turning  the  boat 
upon  her  keel ;  then  bearing  down  her  stern  and  rock- 
ing her,  they  forced  out  so  much  water  that  she  was 
able  to  bear  the  weight  of  a  man  without  sinking. 
One  of  the  islanders  now  got  in,  and  in  a  little  while 
bailed  out  the  water  with  his  hands.  The  other  swam 
about  and  collected  the  oars,  and  they  all  three  got 
once  more  on  board. 

By  this  time  the  tide  had  swept  them  beyond  the 
breakers,  and  Weekes  called  on  his  companions  to 
row  for  land.  They  were  so  chilled  and  benum1)ed  by 
the  cold,  however,  that  they  lost  all  heart,  and  abso- 
lutely refused.  Weekes  was  equally  chilled,  but  had 
superior  sagacity  and  self-command.  He  counteracted 
the  tendency  to  drowsiness  and  stupor  which  cold  pro- 
duces by  keeping  himself  in  constant  exercise;  and 
seeing  that  the  vessel  was  advancing,  and  that  every- 
thing depended  upon  himself,  he  set  to  work  to  scull 
the  boat  clear  of  the  bar,  and  into  quiet  water. 

Towards  midnight  one  of  the  poor  islanders  ex- 
pired :  his  companion  threw  himself  on  his  corpse  and 
could  not  be  persuaded  to  leave  him.  The  dismal  night 
wore  away  amidst  these  horrors :  as  the  day  dawned, 
Weekes  found  himself  near  the  land.  He  steered  di- 
rectly for  it,  and  at  length,  with  the  aid  of  the  surf,  ran 
his  boat  high  upon  a  sandy  beach. 

Finding  that  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  yet  gave 
signs  of  life,  he  aided  him  to  leave  the  boat,  and  set 
out  with  him  towards  the  adjacent  woods.  The  poor 
fellow,  however,  was  too  feeble  to  follow  him,  and 
Weekes  was  soon  obliged  to  abandon  him  to  his  fate 
and  provide  for  his  own  safety.  Falling  upon  a  beaten 
path,-  he  pursued  it,  and  after  a  few  hours  came  to  a 
part  of  the  coast,  where,  to  his  surprise  and  joy,  he 
beheld  the  ship  at  anchor  and  was  met  by  the  captain 
and  his  party. 


n 


it  i 

IH    ,:''     » 


70 


ASTORIA 


^      M' 


After  Weekes  had  related  his  adventures,  three  par- 
ties were  dispatched  to  beat  up  the  coast  in  search  of 
the  unfortunate  islander.  They  returned  at  night  with- 
out success,  though  they  had  used  the  utmost  diligence. 
On  the  following  day  the  search  was  resumed,  and 
the  poor  fellow  was  at  length  discovered  lying  beneath 
a  group  of  rocks,  his  legs  swollen,  his  feet  torn  and 
bloody  from  walking  through  bushes  and  briers,  and 
himself  half-dead  with  cold,  hunger,  and  fatigue. 
Weekes  and  this  islander  were  the  only  survivors  of 
the  crew  of  the  jolly-boat,  and  no  trace  was  ever  dis- 
covered of  Fox  and  his  party.  Thus  eight  men  were 
lost  on  the  first  approach  to  the  coast;  a  commence- 
ment that  cast  a  gloom  over  the  spirits  of  the  whole 
party,  and  was  regarded  by  some  of  the  superstitious 
as  an  omen  that  boded  no  good  to  the  enterprise. 

Towards  night  the  Sandwich  Islanders  went  on 
shore,  to  bury  the  body  of  their  unfortunate  country- 
man who  had  perished  in  the  boat.  On  arriving  at 
the  place  where  it  had  been  left,  they  dug  a  grave  in 
the  sand,  in  which  they  deposited  the  corpse,  with  a 
biscuit  under  one  of  the  arms,  some  lard  under  the 
chin,  and  a  small  quantity  of  tobacco,  as  provisions 
for  its  journey  in  the  land  of  spirits.  Having  covered 
the  body  with  sand  and  flints,  they  kneeled  along  the 
grave  in  a  double  row,  with  their  faces  turned  to  the 
east,  while  one  who  ofliciated  as  a  priest  sprinkled  them 
with  water  from  a  hat.  In  so  doing  he  recited  a  kind 
of  prayer  or  invocation,  to  which,  at  intervals,  the 
others  made  responses.  Such  were  the  simple  rites 
performed  by  these  poor  savages  at  the  grave  of  their 
comrade  on  the  shores  of  a  strange  land;  and  when 
these  were  done,  they  rose  and  returned  in  silence  to 
the  ship,  without  once  casting  a  look  behind. 


ASTORIA 


71 


CHAPTER   VIII 


ind 
the 
ites 
Heir 


The  Columbia,  or  Oregon,  for  the  distance  of  thirty 
or  forty  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  sea,  is,  prop- 
erly speaking,  a  mere  estuary,  indented  by  deep  bays 
so  as  to  vary  from  three  to  seven  miles  in  width ;  and 
is  rendered  extremely  intricate  and  dangerous  by 
shoals  reaching  nearly  from  shore  to  shore,  on  which, 
at  times,  the  winds  and  currents  produce  foaming  and 
tumultuous  breakers.  The  mouth  of  the  river  proper 
is  but  about  half  a  mile  wide,  formed  by  the  contract- 
ing shores  of  the  estuary.  The  entrance  from  the  sea, 
as  we  have  already  observed,  is  bounded  on  the  south 
side  by  a  flat  sandy  spit  of  land,  stretching  into  the 
ocean.  This  is  commonly  called  Point  Adams.  The 
opposite,  or  northern  side,  is  Cape  Disappointment;  a 
kind  of  peninsula,  terminating  in  a  steep  knoll  or  prom- 
ontory covered  w^ith  a  forest  of  pine-trees,  and  con- 
nected with  the  main-land  by  a  low  and  narrow  neck. 
Immediately  within  this  cape  is  a  wide,  open  bay,  ter- 
minating at  Chinook  Point,  so  called  from  a  neighbor- 
ing tribe  of  Indians.  This  was  called  Baker's  Bay, 
and  here  the  Tonquin  was  anchored. 

The  natives  inhabiting  the  lower  part  of  the  river, 
and  with  whom  the  company  was  likely  to  have  the 
most  frequent  intercourse,  were  divided  at  this  time 
into  four  tribes,  the  Chinooks,  Clatsops,  Wahkiacums, 
and  Cathlamahs.  They  resembled  each  other  in  per- 
son, dress,  language,  and  manner;  and  were  probably 
from  the  same  stock,  but  broken  into  tribes,  or  rather 
hordes,  by  those  feuds  and  schisms  frequent  among 
Indians. 

These  people  generally  live  by  fishing.  It  is  true 
they  occasionally  hunt  the  elk  and  deer,  and  ensnare 
the  water-fowl  of  their  ponds  and  rivers,  but  these  are 
casual   luxuries.      Their   chief   subsistence   is   derived 


^«    ( 


ASTORIA 


I  -v 


\i'  '■■ 


■  i 


from  the  salmon  and  other  fish  which  abound  in  the 
Cokmibia  and  its  tributary  streams,  aided  by  roots  and 
herbs,  especially  the  wappatoo,  which  is  found  on  the 
islands  of  the  river. 

As  the  Indians  of  the  plains  who  depend  upon  the 
chase  are  bold  and  expert  riders,  and  pride  themselves 
upon  their  horses,  so  these  piscatory  tribes  of  the  coast 
excel  in  the  management  ot  canoes,  and  are  never  more 
at  home  than  when  riding  upon  the  waves.  Their 
canoes  vary  in  form  and  size.  Some  are  upwards  of 
fifty  feet  long,  cut  out  of  a  single  tree,  either  fir  or 
white  cedar,  and  capable  of  carrying  thirty  persons. 
They  have  thwart  pieces  from  side  to  side  about  three 
inches  thick,  and  their  gunwales  flare  outwards,  so  as 
to  cast  off  the  surges  of  the  w'aves.  The  bow  and  stern 
are  decorated  with  grotesque  figures  of  men  and  ani- 
mals, sometimes  five  feet  in  height. 

In  managing  their  canoes  they  kneel  two  and  two 
along  the  bottom,  sitting  on  their  heels,  and  wielding 
paddles  from  four  to  five  feet  long,  while  one  sits  on 
the  stern  and  steers  with  a  paddle  of  the  same  kind. 
The  women  are  equally  expert  with  the  men  in  manag- 
ing the  canoe,  and  generally  take  the  helm. 

It  is  surprising  to  see  with  wdiat  fearless  unconcern 
these  savages  venture  in  their  light  barks  upon  the 
roughest  and  most  tempestuous  seas.  They  seem  to 
ride  upon  the  waves  like  sea-fowl.  Should  a  surge 
throw  the  canoe  upon  its  side  and  endanger  its  over- 
turn, those  to  windward  lean  over  the  upper  gunwale, 
thrust  their  paddles  deep  into  the  wave,  apparently  catch 
the  water  and  force  it  under  the  canoe,  and  by  this 
action  not  merely  regain  an  equilibrium,  but  give  their 
bark  a  vigorous  impulse  forward. 

The  effect  of  different  modes  of  life  upon  the  human 
frame  and  human  character  is  strikingly  instanced  in 
the  contrast  between  the  hunting  Indians  of  the  prai- 
ries, and  the  piscatory  Indians  of  the  sea-coast.     The 


ASTORIA 


73 


former,  continually  on  horseback  scouring  the  plains, 
gaining  their  food  by  hardy  exercise,  and  subsisting 
chiefly  on  flesh,  are  generally  tall,  sinewy,  meagre,  but 
well  formed,  and  of  bold  and  fierce  deportment:  the 
latter,  lounging  about  the  river  banks,  or  squatting 
and  curved  up  in  their  canoes,  are  generally  low  in 
stature,  ill-shaped,  with  crooked  legs,  thick  ankles,  and 
broad  flat  feet.  They  are  inferior  also  in  muscular 
power  and  activity,  and  in  game  qualities  and  appear- 
ance; to  their  hard-riding  brethren  of  the  prairies. 

Having  premised  these  few-  particulars  concerning 
the  neighboring  Indians,  we  will  return  to  the  imme- 
diate concerns  of  the  Tonquin  and  her  crew. 

Further  search  was  made  for  Mr.  Fox  and  his  party, 
but  with  no  better  success,  and  they  were  at  length 
given  up  as  lost.  In  the  meantime,  the  captain  and 
some  of  the  partners  explored  the  river  for  some  dis- 
tance in  a  large  boat,  to  select  a  suitable  place  for  the 
trading  post.  Their  old  jealousies  and  differences  con- 
tinued; they  never  could  coincide  in  their  choice,  and 
the  captain  objected  altogether  to  any  site  so  high  up 
the  river.  They  all  returned,  therefore,  to  Baker's 
Bay  in  no  very  good  humor.  The  partners  proposed 
to  examine  the  opposite  shore,  but  the  captain  was  im- 
patient of  any  further  delay.  His  eagerness  to  *'  get 
on  "  had  increased  upon  him.  He  thought  all  these 
excursions  a  sheer  loss  of  time,  and  was  resolved  to 
land  at  once,  build  a  shelter  for  the  reception  of  that 
part  of  his  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of  the  settle- 
ment, and,  having  cleared  his  ship  of  it  and  of  his  irk- 
some shipmates,  to  depart  upon  the  prosecution  of  his 
coasting  voyage,  according  to  orders. 

On  the  following  day,  therefore,  without  troubling 
himself  to  consult  the  partners,  he  landed  in  Baker's 
Bay,  and  proceeded  to  erect  a  shed  for  the  reception 
of  the  rigging,  equipments,  and  stores  of  the  schooner 
that  was  to  be  built  for  the  use  of  the  settlement. 


/ 


'^^  II 


!^  ^" 


. 


74 


ASTORIA 


This  dogged  determination  on  the  part  of  the  sturdy 
captain  gave  high  offence  to  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  now 
considered  himself  at  the  head  of  the  concern,  as  Mr. 
Astor's  representative  and  proxy.  He  set  off  the  same 
day,  (April  5th,)  accompanied  by  Mr.  David  Stuart, 
for  the  southern  shore,  intending  to  be  back  by  the 
seventh.  Not  having  the  captain  to  contend  with,  they 
soon  pitched  upon  a  spot  which  appeared  to  them  fa- 
vorable for  the  intended  establishment.  It  was  on  a 
point  of  land  called  Point  George,  having  a  very  good 
harbor,  where  vessels,  not  exceeding  two  hundred  tons 
burden,  might  anchor  within  fifty  yards  of  the  shore. 

After  a  day  thus  profitably  spent,  they  recrossed 
the  river,  but  landed  on  the  northern  shore  several 
miles  above  the  anchoring  ground  of  the  Tonquin,  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Chinook,  and  visited  the  village 
of  that  tribe.  Here  they  were  received  with  great  hos- 
pitality by  the  chief,  who  was  named  Comcomly,  a 
shrewd  old  savage,  with  but  one  eye,  who  will  occasion- 
ally figure  in  this  narrative.  Each  village  forms  a 
petty  sovereignty,  governed  by  its  own  chief,  who, 
however,  possesses  but  little  authority,  unless  he  be  a 
man  of  wealth  and  substance;  that  is  to  say,  possessed 
of  canoes,  slaves,  and  wives.  The  greater  number  of 
these,  the  greater  is  the  chief.  How  many  wives  this 
one-eyed  potentate  maintained  we  are  not  told,  but  he 
certainly  possessed  great  sway,  not  merely  over  his 
own  tribe,  but  over  the  neighborhood. 

Having  mentioned  slaves,  we  would  observe  that 
slavery  exists  among  several  of  the  tribes  beyond  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  slaves  are  well  treated  while 
in  good  health,  but  occupied  in  all  kinds  of  drudgery. 
Should  they  become  useless,  however,  by  sickness  or 
old  age,  they  are  totally  neglected,  and  left  to  perish; 
nor  is  any  respect  paid  to  their  bodies  after  death. 

A  singular  custom  prevails,  not  merely  among  the 
Chinooks,  but  among  most  of  the  tribes  about  this 


1  I  :■:. 


ASTORIA 


75 


the 
this 


part  of  the  coast,  which  is  the  flattening-  of  the  fore- 
head. The  process  hy  which  this  deformity  is  effected 
commences  immediately  after  birth.  The  infant  is 
laid  in  a  wooden  trough,  by  way  of  cradle.  The  end 
on  which  the  head  reposes  is  higher  than  the  rest.  A 
padding  is  placed  on  the  forehead  of  the  infant,  with 
a  piece  of  bark  above  it,  and  is  pressed  down  by  cords, 
wdiich  pass  through  holes  on  each  side  of  the  trough. 
As  the  tightening  of  the  padding  and  the  pressing  of 
the  head  to  the  board  is  gradual,  the  process  is  said 
not  to  be  attended  with  much  pain.  The  appearance 
of  the  infant,  however,  while  in  this  state  of  compres- 
sion, is  whimsically  hideous,  and  "  its  little  black  eyes," 
we  are  told,  ''  being  forced  out  by  the  tightness  of  the 
bandages,  resemble  those  of  a  mouse  choked  in  a  trap." 

About  a  year's  pressure  is  sufficient  to  produce  the 
desired  effect,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  child 
emerges  from  its  bandages  a  complete  flathead,  and 
continues  so  through  life.  It  must  be  noted,  however, 
that  this  flattening  of  the  head  has  something  in  it  of 
aristocratical  significancy,  like  the  crippling  of  the  feet 
among  the  Chinese  ladies  of  quality.  At  any  rate,  it 
is  a  sign  of  freedom.  No  slave  is  permitted  to  bestow 
this  enviable  deformity  upon  his  child;  all  the  slaves, 
therefore,  are  roundheads. 

With  this  worthy  tribe  of  Chinooks  the  two  partners 
passed  a  part  of  the  day  very  agreeably  M'Dougal, 
who  was  somewhat  vain  of  his  official  rank,  had  given 
it  to  be  understood  that  they  were  two  chiefs  of  a  great 
trading  company,  about  to  be  established  here,  and  the 
quicksighted,  though  one-eyed  chief,  who  was  some- 
what practised  in  traffic  with  white  men,  immediately 
perceived  the  policy  of  cultivating  the  friendship  of 
two  such  important  visitors.  He  regaled  them,  there- 
fore, to  the  best  of  his  ability,  with  abundance  of 
salmon  and  wappatoo.  The  next  morning,  April  7th, 
they  prepared  to  return  to  the  vessel,   according  to 


1  ''■■ 


! 


f   ;;■ 


1 

if 

,1. 


76 


ASTORIA 


promise.  They  liad  eleven  miles  of  open  bay  to  trav- 
erse; the  wind  was  fresh,  the  waves  ran  high.  Com- 
comly  remonstrated  with  them  on  the  hazard  to  which 
they  would  be  exposed.  They  were  resolute,  however, 
and  launched  their  boat,  while  the  wary  chieftain  fol- 
lowed at  some  short  distance  in  his  canoe.  Scarce  had 
they  rowed  a  mile,  when  a  wave  broke  over  their  boat 
and  upset  it.  They  were  in  imminent  peril  of  drown- 
ing, especially  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  could  not  swim. 
Comcomly,  however,  came  bounding  over  the  waves 
in  his  light  canoe,  and  snatched  them  from  a  watery 
grave. 

They  w'ere  taken  on  shore  and  a  fire  made,  at  which 
they  dried  their  clothes,  after  which  Comcomly  con- 
ducted them  back  to  his  village.  Here  everything  was 
done  that  could  be  devised  for  their  entertainment 
during  three  days  that  they  were  detained  by  bad 
weather.  Comcomly  made  his  people  perform  antics 
before  them ;  and  his  wives  and  daughters  endeavored, 
by  all  the  soothing  and  endearing  arts  of  women,  to 
find  favor  in  their  eyes.  Some  even  painted  their 
bodies  with  red  clay,  and  anointed  themselves  with 
fish  oil,  to  give  additional  lustre  to  their  charms.  Mr. 
M'Dougal  seems  to  have  had  a  heart  susceptible  to  the 
influence  of  the  gentler  sex.  Whether  or  no  it  was 
first  touched  on  this  occasion  we  do  not  learn;  but  it 
will  be  found,  in  the  course  of  this  work,  that  one  of 
the  daughters  of  the  hospitable  Comcomly  eventually 
made  a  conquest  of  the  great  eri  of  the  American  Fur 
Company. 

When  the  weather  had  moderated  and  the  sea  be- 
come tranquil,  the  one-eyed  chief  of  the  Chinooks 
manned  his  state  canoe,  and  conducted  his  guests  in 
safety  to  the  ship,  where  they  were  welcomed  with  joy, 
for  apprehensions  had  been  felt  for  their  safety.  Com- 
comly and  his  people  were  then  entertained  on  board 
of  the  Tonquin,  and  liberally  rewarded  for  their  hos- 


m. 


ASTORIA 


77 


pitality  and  services.  Tliey  returned  liome  liij^hly  satis- 
fied, promising  to  remain  faithful  friends  and  allies 
of  the  white  men. 


con- 


CHAPTER    IX 

From  the  report  made  by  the  two  exploring  partners, 
it  was  determined  that  Point  George  sliould  be  the  site 
of  the  trading  house.  These  gentlemen,  it  is  true,  were 
not  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  place,  and  were  de- 
sirous of  continuing  their  search ;  but  Captain  Thorn 
was  impatient  to  land  his  cargo  and  continue  his  voy- 
age, and  protested  against  any  more  of  what  he  termed 
"  sporting  excursions." 

Accordingly,  on  the  12th  of  April  the  launch  was 
freighted  with  all  things  necessary  for  the  purpose, 
and  sixteen  persons  departed  in  her  to  commence  the 
establishment,  leaving  the  Tonquin  to  follow  as  soon 
as  the  harbor  could  be  sounded. 

Crossing  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  the  party 
landed,  and  encamped  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  bay 
within  Point  George.  The  situation  chosen  for  the 
fortified  post  was  on  an  elevation  facing  to  the  north, 
with  the  wide  estuary,  its  sand  bars  and  tumultuous 
breakers  spread  out  before  it,  and  the  promontory  of 
Cape  Disappointment,  fifteen  miles  distant,  closing  the 
prospect  to  the  left.  The  surrounding  country  was 
in  all  the  freshness  of  spring;  the  trees  were  in  the 
young  leaf,  the  weather  was  superb,  and  everything 
looked  delightful  to  men  just  emancipated  from  a  long 
confinement  on  shipboard.  The  Tonquin  shortly  after- 
wards made  her  way  through  the  intricate  channel,  and 
came  to  anchor  in  the  little  bay,  and  was  saluted  from 
the  encampment  with  three  volleys  of  musketry  and 
three  cheers.  She  returned  the  salute  wnth  three  cheers 
and  three  guns. 


/ 


:|  « 


'  I 


I'l 


1 


!    i 


_— ^J?fc 


n 


78 


ASTORIA 


All  hands  now  set  to  work  cutting  down  trees,  clear- 
ing away  thickets,  and  marking  out  the  place  for  the 
residence,  store-house,  and  powder  magazine,  which 
were  to  be  built  of  logs  and  covered  with  bark.  Others 
landed  the  timljers  intended  for  the  frame  of  the  coast- 
ing vessel,  and  proceeded  to  put  them  together,  while 
others  prepared  a  garden  spot,  and  sowed  the  seeds  of 
various  vegetables. 

The  next  thought  was  to  give  a  name  to  the  embryo 
metropolis:  the  one  that  naturally  presented  itself  was 
that  of  the  projector  and  supporter  of  the  whole  enter- 
prise.    It  was  accordingly  named  Astoria. 

The  neighboring  Indians  now  swarmed  about  the 
place.  Some  brought  a  few  land-otter  and  sea-otter 
skins  to  barter,  but  in  very  scanty  parcels ;  the  greater 
number  came  prying  about  to  gratify  their  curiosity, 
for  they  are  said  to  be  impertinently  inquisitive ;  while 
not  a  few  came  with  no  other  design  than  to  pilfer; 
the  laws  of  mciim  and  tuum  being  but  slightly  respected 
among  them.  Some  of  them  beset  the  ship  in  their 
canoes,  among  whom  was  the  Chinook  chief  Com- 
comly,  and  his  liege  subjects.  These  were  well  re- 
ceived by  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  was  delighted  with  an 
opportunity  of  entering  upon  his  functions,  and  ac- 
quiring importance  in  the  eyes  of  his  future  neigh- 
bors. The  confusion  thus  produced  on  board,  and  the 
derangement  of  the  cargo  caused  by  this  petty  trade, 
stirred  the  spleen  of  the  captain,  who  had  a  sovereign 
contempt  for  the  one-eyed  chieftain  and  all  his  crew. 
He  complained  loudly  of  having  his  ship  lumbered  by 
a  host  of  **  Indian  ragamuffins,"  who  had  not  a  skin 
to  dispose  off,  and  at  length  put  his  positive  inter- 
dict upon  all  trafficking  on  board.  Upon  this  Mr. 
M'Dougal  was  fain  to  land,  and  establish  his  quarters 
at  the  encampment,  where  he  could  exercise  his  rights 
and  enjoy  his  dignities  without  control. 

The  feud,  however,  between  these  rival  powers  still 


ASTORIA 


79 


still 


continued,  but  was  chiefly  carried  on  by  letter.  Day 
after  day  and  week  after  week  elapsed,  yet  tlie  store- 
house requisite  for  the  reception  of  the  car^o  were 
not  completed,  and  the  ship  was  detained  in  port; 
while  the  captain  was  teased  by  frecpient  reciuisitions 
for  various  articles  for  the  use  of  tlie  establishment, 
or  the  trade  with  the  natives.  An  an^ry  correspond- 
ence took  place,  in  which  he  complained  bitterly  of  the 
time  wasted  in  **  smoking-  and  si)orting  parties,"  as  he 
termed  the  reconnoitring  expeditions,  and  in  clearing 
and  preparing  meadow  ground  and  turnip  patches, 
instead  of  dispatching  his  ship.  At  length  all  these  jar- 
ring matters  were  adjusted,  if  not  to  the  satisfaction, 
at  least  to  the  acquiescence  of  all  parties.  The  part  of 
the  cargo  destined  for  the  use  of  Astoria  was  landed, 
and  the  ship  left  free  to  proceed  on  her  voyage. 

As  the  Tonquin  was  to  coast  to  the  north,  to  trade 
for  peltries  at  the  different  harbors,  and  to  touch  at 
Astoria  on  her  return  in  the  autumn,  it  was  unani- 
mously determined  that  Mr.  M'Kay  should  go  in  her 
as  supercargo,  taking  with  him  Mr.  Lewis  as  ship's 
clerk.  On  the  first  of  June  the  ship  got  under  way, 
and  dropped  down  to  Baker's  Bay,  where  she  was  de- 
tained for  a  few  days  by  a  head  wind ;  but  early  in 
the  morning  of  the  fifth  stood  out  to  sea  with  a  fine 
breeze  and  swelling  canvas,  and  swept  off  gayly  on  her 
fatal  voyage,  from  which  she  was  never  to  return! 

On  reviewing  the  conduct  of  Captain  Thorn,  and 
examining  his  peevish  and  somewhat  whimsical  cor- 
respondence, the  impression  left  upon  our  mind  is, 
upon  the  whole,  decidedly  in  his  favor.  While  we 
smile  at  the  simplicity  of  his  heart  and  the  narrowness 
of  his  views,  which  made  him  regard  everything  out 
of  the  direct  path  of  his  daily  duty,  and  the  rigid 
exigencies  of  the  service,  as  trivial  and  impertinent, 
which  inspired  him  with  contempt  for  the  swelling 
vanity  of   some  of  his  coadjutors,   and   the  literary 


y  m 


aot. 


I 


80 


ASTORIA 


i  .'■ 


3  h 


:l 


if     j 


I 
I 


. : 
i 


exercises  and  curious  researches  of  others,  we  cannot 
but  applaud  that  strict  and  conscientious  devotion  to 
the  interests  of  his  employer,  and  to  what  he  consid- 
ered the  true  objects  of  the  enterprise  in  which  he  was 
engaged.  He  certainly  was  to  blame  occasionally  for 
the  asperity  of  his  manners,  and  the  arbitrary  nature 
of  his  measures,  yet  much  that  is  exceptionable  in  this 
part  of  his  conduct  may  be  traced  to  rigid  notions  of 
duty,  acquired  in  that  tyrannical  school,  a  ship  of  war, 
and  to  the  construction  given  by  his  companions  to 
the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  so  little  in  conformity  with 
his  own.  His  mind,  too,  appears  to  have  become 
•almost  diseased  by  the  suspicions  he  had  formed  as 
to  the  loyalty  of  his  associates,  and  the  nature  of  their 
ultimate  designs;  yet  on  this  point  there  were  circum- 
stances to,  in  some  measure,  justify  him.  The  rela- 
tions between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain 
were  at  that  time  in  a  critical  state;  in  fact,  the  two 
countries  were  on  the  eve  of  a  war.  Several  of  the 
partners  were  British  subjects,  and  might  be  ready  to 
desert  the  flag  under  which  they  acted,  should  a  war 
take  place.  Their  application  to  the  British  minister 
at  New  York  shows  the  dubious  feeling  with  which 
they  had  embarked  in  the  present  enterprise.  They 
had  been  in  the  employ  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  might  be  disposed  to  rally  again  under  that  asso- 
ciation, should  events  threaten  the  prosperity  of  this 
embryo  establishment  of  Mr.  Astor.  Besides,  we  have 
the  fact,  averred  to  us  by  one  of  the  partners,  that 
some  of  them,  who  were  young  and  heedless,  took  a 
mischievous  and  unwarrantable  pleasure  in  playing 
upon  the  jealous  temper  of  the  captain,  and  affecting 
mysterious  consultations  and  sinister  movements. 

These  circumstances  are  cited  in  palliation  of  the 
doubts  and  surmises  of  Captain  Thorn,  which  might 
otherwise  appear  strange  and  unreasonable.  That  most 
of  the  partners  were  perfectly  upright  and  faithful 


ASTORIA 


8l 


in  the  discharge  of  the  trust  reposed  in  them  we  are 
fully  satisfied ;  still  the  honest  captain  was  not  in- 
variably wrong  in  his  suspicions;  and  that  he  formed 
a  pretty  just  opinion  of  the  integrity  of  that  aspiring 
personage,  Mr.  M'Dougal,  will  be  substantially  proved 
in  the  sequel. 


CHAPTER   X 

While  the  Astorians  were  busily  occupied  in  complet- 
ing their  factory  and  fort,  a  report  was  brought  to 
them  by  an  Indian  from  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  that 
a  party  of  thirty  white  men  had  appeared  on  the  banks 
of  the  Columbia,  and  were  actually  building  houses 
at  the  second  rapids.  This  information  caused  much 
disquiet.  We  have  already  mentioned  that  the  North- 
west Company  had  established  posts  to  the  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  a  district  called  by  them  New 
Caledonia,  which  extended  from  lat.  52°  to  55°  north, 
being  within  the  British  territories.  It  was  now  appre- 
hended that  they  were  advancing  within  the  Ameri- 
can limits,  and  were  endeavoring  to  seize  upon  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  and  forestall  the  American  Fur 
Company  in  the  surrounding  trade;  in  which  case 
bloody  feuds  might  be  anticipated,  such  as  had  pre- 
vailed between  the  rival  fur  companies  in  former  days. 

A  reconnoitring  party  was  sent  up  the  river  to  ascer- 
tain the  truth  of  the  report.  They  ascended  to  the 
foot  of  the  first  rapid,  about  two  hundred  miles,  but 
could  hear  nothing  of  any  white  men  being  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Not  long  after  their  return,  however,  further  ac- 
counts were  received,  by  two  wandering  Indians,  which 
established  the  fact,  that  the  Northwest  Company  had 
actually  erected  a  trading  house  on  the  Spokan  River, 
which  falls  into  the  north  branch  of  the  Columbia. 


H 


M 


in 


till 


J     !'^ 


m!: 


!«• 


;!*    ''  1 


li      :'    \ 


82 


ASTORIA 


What  rendered  this  intelHgence  the  more  disquiet- 
ing, was  the  inabiHty  of  the  Astorians,  in  theif  present 
reduced  state  as  to  numbers,  and  the  exigencies  of 
their  new  estabHshment,  to  furnish  detachments  to 
penetrate  the  country  in  different  directions,  and  fix 
the  posts  necessary  to  secure  the  interior  trade. 

It  was  resolved,  however,  at  any  rate,  to  advance  a 
counter-check  to  this  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  one  of 
the  partners,  Mr.  David  Stuart,  prepared  to  set  out  for 
the  purpose  with  eight  men  and  a  small  assortment  of 
goods.  He  was  to  be  guided  by  the  two  Indians,  who 
knew  the  country,  and  promised  to  take  him  to  a  place 
not  far  from  the  Spokan  River,  and  in  a  neighborhood 
abounding  with  beaver.  Here  he  was  to  establish  him- 
self and  to  remain  for  a  time,  provided  he  found  the 
situation  advantageous  and  the  natives  friendly. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  when  Mr.  Stuart  was  nearly 
ready  to  embark,  a  canoe  made  its  appearance,  stand- 
ing for  the  harbor,  and  manned  by  nine  white  men. 
Much  speculation  took  place  who  these  strangers  could 
be,  for  it  was  too  soon  to  expect  their  own  people, 
under  Mr.  Hunt,  who  were  to  cross  the  continent.  As 
the  canoe  drew  near,  the  British  standard  was  dis- 
tinguished :  on  coming  to  land,  one  of  the  crew  stepped 
on  shore,  and  announced  himself  as  Mr.  David  Thomp- 
son, astronomer,  and  partner  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany. According  to  his  account,  he  had  set  out  in  the 
preceding  year  with  a  tolerably  strong  party,  and  a 
supply  of  Indian  goods,  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
A  part  of  his  people,  however,  had  deserted  him  on 
the  eastern  side,  and  returned  with  the  goods  to  the 
nearest  Northwest  post.  He  had  persisted  in  crossing 
the  mountains  with  eight  men,  who  remained  true  to 
him.  They  had  traversed  the  higher  regions,  and 
ventured  near  the  source  of  the  Columbia,  where,  in 
the  spring,  they  had  constructed  a  cedar  canoe,  the 
same  in  which  they  had  reached  Astoria. 


men. 
ould 
ople, 
As 
dis- 
pped 
mp- 
om- 
the 
d  a 
lains. 
li  on 
the 
>sing 
le  to 
and 
,  in 
the 


ASTORIA 


83 


This,  in  fact,  was  the  party  dispatched  by  the  North- 
west Company  to  anticipate  Mr.  Astor  in  his  intention 
of  effecting  a  settlement  at  the  month  of  the  Cohimbia 
River.  It  appears,  from  information  subsequently  de- 
rived from  other  sources,  that  Mr.  Thompson  had 
pushed  on  his  course  with  great  haste,  calling  at  all 
the  Indian  villages  in  his  march,  presenting  them  with 
British  flags,  and  even  planting  them  at  the  forks  of 
the  rivers,  proclaiming  formally  that  he  took  posses- 
sion of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  king  of  Great 
Britain  for  the  Northwest  Company.  As  his  original 
plan  was  defeated  by  the  desertion  of  his  people,  it  is 
probable  that  he  descended  the  river  simply  to  recon- 
noitre, and  ascertain  whether  an  American  settlement 
had  been  commenced. 

Mr.  Thompson  was,  no  doubt,  the  first  white  man 
who  descended  the  northern  branch  of  the  Columbia 
from  so  near  its  source.  Lewis  and  Clarke  struck  the 
main  body  of  the  river  at  the  forks,  about  four  hun- 
dred miles  from  its  mouth.  They  entered  it  from 
Lewis  River,  its  southern  branch,  and  thence  descended. 

Though  Mr.  Thompson  could  be  considered  as  little 
better  than  a  spy  in  the  camp,  he  was  received  with 
great  cordiality  by  Mr.  M'Dougal,  who  had  a  lurking 
feeling  of  companionship  and  good-will  f  jr  all  of  the 
Northwf'st  Company.  He  invited  him  to  headquarters, 
where  he  an:l  his  people  were  hospitably  entertained. 
Nay,  further,  being  somewhat  in  extremity,  he  was 
furnished  'jy  Mr.  M'Dougal  with  goods  and  provisions 
for  his  jOurney  back,  across  the  mountains,  much 
against  the  wishes  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  who  did  not 
think  the  object  of  his  visit  entitled  him  to  any  favor. 

On  the  23d  of  July,  Mr.  Stuart  set  out  upon  his 
expedition  to  the  interior.  His  party  consisted  of  four 
of  the  clerks,  Messrs.  Pillet,  Ross,  M'Lennon,  and 
Montigny,  two  Canadian  voyageurs,  and  two  natives 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands.    They  had  three  canoes  well 


I 


Bib 


\  j 

■  I 
1 

1 

i  1 

<   1 

1 

! 

i    ' 

>     J 1 

i  S 

4j 

^^i^M^ 

84 


ASTORIA 


laden  with  provisions,  and  with  goods  and  necessaries 
for  a  trading  establishment. 

Mr.  Thompson  and  his  party  set  out  in  company 
with  them,  it  being  his  intention  to  proceed  direct  to 
Montreal.  The  partners  at  Astoria  forwarded  by  him 
a  short  letter  to  Mr.  Astor,  informing  him  of  their  safe 
arrival  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  that  they 
had  not  yet  heard  of  Mr.  Hunt.  The  little  squadron 
of  canoes  set  sail  with  a  favorable  breeze,  and  soon 
passed  Tongue  Point,  a  long,  high,  and  rocky  promon- 
tory, covered  with  trees,  and  stretching  far  into  the 
river.  Opposite  to  this,  on  the  northern  shore,  is  a 
deep  bay,  where  the  Columbia  anchored  at  the  time 
of  the  discovery,  and  which  is  still  called  Gray's  Bay, 
from  the  name  of  her  commander. 

From  hence,  the  general  course  of  the  river  for 
about  seventy  miles,  was  nearly  southeast;  varying  in 
breadth  according  to  its  bays  and  indentations,  and 
navigable  for  vessels  of  three  hundred  tons.  The 
shores  were  in  some  places  high  and  rocky,  with  low 
marshy  islands  at  their  feet,  subject  to  inundation,  and 
covered  with  willows,  poplars,  and  other  trees  that 
love  an  alluvial  soil.  Sometimes  the  mountains  re- 
ceded, and  gave  place  to  beautiful  plains  and  noble 
forests.  While  the  river  margin  was  richly  fringed 
with  trees  of  deciduous  foliage,  the  rough  uplands 
were  crowned  by  majestic  pines,  and  firs  of  gigantic 
size,  some  towering  to  the  height  of  between  two  and 
three  hundred  feet,  with  proportionate  circumference. 
Out  of  these  the  Indians  wrought  their  great  canoes 
and  pirogues. 

At  one  part  of  the  river,  they  passed,  on  the  northern 
side,  an  isolated  rock,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high,  rising  from  a  low  marshy  soil,  and  totally  dis- 
connected with  the  adjacent  mountains.  This  was  held 
in  great  reverence  by  the  neighboring  Indians,  being 
one  of  their  principal  places  of  sepulture.     The  same 


ASTORIA 


85 


r  for 
ng  in 
and 
The 
low 
and 
that 
re- 
loble 


:hern 

feet 

dis- 

held 

leing 

>ame 


provident  care  for  the  deceased  that  prevails  among 
the  hunting  tribes  of  the  prairies  is  observable  among 
the  piscatory  tribes  of  the  rivers  and  sea-coast.  Among 
the  former,  the  favorite  horse  of  the  hunter  is  buried 
with  him  in  the  same  funereal  mound,  and  his  bow  and 
arrows  are  laid  by  his  side,  that  he  may  be  perfectly 
equipped  for  the  "  happy  hunting  grounds "  of  the 
land  of  spirits.  Among  the  latter,  the  Indian  is 
wrapped  in  his  mantle  of  skins,  laid  in  his  canoe,  with 
his  paddle,  his  fishing  spear,  and  other  implements  be- 
side him,  and  placed  aloft  on  some  rock  or  other  emi- 
nence overlooking  the  river,  or  bay,  or  lake,  that  he 
has  frequented.  He  is  thus  fitted  out  to  launch  away 
upon  those  placid  streams  and  sunny  lakes  stocked  with 
all  kinds  of  fish  and  water- fowl,  which  are  prepared  in 
the  next  world  for  those  who  have  acquitted  them- 
selves as  good  sons,  good  fathers,  good  husbands,  and, 
above  all,  good  fishermen,  during  their  mortal  sojourn. 

The  isolated  rock  in  question  presented  a  spectacle 
of  the  kind,  numerous  dead  bodies  being  deposited  in 
canoes  on  its  summit;  while  on  poles  around  were 
trophies,  or,  rather,  funereal  offerings  of  trinkets,  gar- 
ments, baskets  of  roots,  and  other  articles  for  the  use 
of  the  deceased.  A  reverential  feeling  protects  these 
sacred  spots  from  robbery  or  insult.  The  friends  of 
the  deceased,  especially  the  women,  repair  here  at  sun- 
rise and  sunset  for  some  time  after  his  death,  singing 
his  funeral  dirge,  and  uttering  loud  wailings  and 
lamentations. 

From  the  number  of  dead  bodies  in  canoes  observed 
upon  this  rock  by  the  first  explorers  of  the  river,  it 
received  the  name  of  Mount  Cofiin,  which  it  continues 
to  bear. 

Beyond  this  rock  they  passed  the  mouth  of  a  river 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  which  appeared  to 
take  its  rise  in  a  distant  mountain,  covered  with  snow. 
The  Indian  name  of  this  river   was  the  Cowleskee. 


1 


I 


I 


I  -j 


) 


I  : 


i  I 


1 

I 

i; 


1       ji; 


86 


ASTORIA 


Some  miles  further  on  they  came  to  the  great  Colum- 
bian Valley,  so  called  by  Lewis  and  Clarke.  It  is  sixty 
miles  in  width,  and  extends  far  to  the  southeast  be- 
tween parallel  ridges  of  mountains,  which  bound  it  on 
the  east  and  w^est.  Through  the  centre  of  this  valley 
flowed  a  large  and  beautiful  stream,  called  the  Walla- 
mot,^  which  came  wandering  for  several  hundred 
miles,  through  a  yet  unexplored  wilderness.  The 
sheltered  situation  of  this  immense  valley  had  an  ob- 
vious effect  upon  the  climate.  It  was  a  region  of  great 
beauty  and  luxuriance,  with  lakes  and  pools,  and 
green  meadows  shaded  by  noble  groves.  Various 
tribes  were  said  to  reside  in  this  valley,  and  along  the 
banks  of  the  Wallamot. 

About  eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamot 
the  little  squadron  arrived  at  Vancouver's  Point,  so 
called  in  honor  of  that  celebrated  voyager  by  his 
lieutenant  (Brou^hton)  when  he  explored  the  river. 
This  point  is  said  to  present  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
scenes  on  the  Columbia;  a  lovely  meadow,  with  a 
silver  sheet  of  limpid  water  in  the  centre,  enlivened 
by  wild-fowl,  a  range  of  hills  crowned  by  forests, 
wdiile  the  prospect  is  closed  by  Mount  Hood,  a  mag- 
nificent mountain  rising  into  a  lofty  peak,  and  covered 
wath  snow ;  the  ultimate  landmark  of  the  first  ex- 
plorers of  the  river. 

Point  Vancouver  is  about  one  hundred  miles  from 
Astoria.  Here  the  reflux  of  the  tide  ceases  to  be  per- 
ceptible. To  this  place  vessels  of  two  and  three  hun- 
dred tons  burden  may  ascend.  The  party  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Stuart  had  been  three  or  four  days 
in  reaching  it,  though  we  have  forborne  to  notice  their 
daily  progress  and  nightly  encampments. 

From  Point  Vancouver  the  river  turned  towards 
the  northeast,  and  became  more  contracted  and  rapid, 

*  Pronounced  Wallamot,  the  accent  being  upon  the  second 
syllable. 


ASTORIA 


87 


:rom 
per- 

hun- 
the 

days 

their 


with  occasional  islands  and  frequent  sand-banks. 
These  islands  are  furnished  with  a  number  of  ponds, 
and  at  certain  seasons  abound  with  swans,  geese, 
brandts,  cranes,  gulls,  plover  and  other  wild-fowl. 
The  shores,  too,  are  low  and  closely  wooded,  and  such 
an  undergrowth  of  vines  and  rushes  as  to  be  almost 
impassable. 

About  thirty  miles  above  Point  Vancouver  the  moun- 
tains again  approach  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which 
is  bordered  by  stupendous  precipices,  covered  with  the 
fir  and  the  white  cedar,  and  enlivened  occasionally  by 
beautiful  cascades  leaping  from  a  great  height,  and 
sending  up  wreaths  of  vapor.  One  of  these  precipices, 
or  cliffs,  is  curiously  worn  by  time  and  weather  so  as 
to  have  the  appearance  of  a  ruined  fortress,  with 
towers  and  battlements,  beetling  high  above  the 
river,  while  two  small  cascades,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  height,  pitch  down  from  tli£  fissures  of  the 
rocks. 

The  turbulence  and  rapidity  of  the  current  continu- 
ally augmenting  as  they  advanced,  gave  the  voyagers 
intimation  that  they  were  approaching  the  great  ob- 
structions of  the  river,  and  at  length  they  arrived  at 
Strawberry  Island,  so  called  by  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid.  As  this  part 
of  the  Columbia  will  be  repeatedly  mentioned  in  the 
course  of  this  work,  being  the  scene  of  some  of  its 
incidents,  we  shall  give  a  general  description  of  it  in 
this  place. 

The  falls  or  rapids  of  the  Columbia  are  situated 
above  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  river.  The  first  is  a  perpendicular  cascade  of 
twenty  feet,  after  which  there  is  a  swnft  descent  for 
a  mile,  between  islands  of  hard  black  rock,  to  another 
pitch  of  eight  feet  divided  by  two  rocks.  About  two 
and  a  half  miles  below  this  the  river  expands  into  a 
wide  basin,  seemingly  dammed  up  by  a  perpendicular 


1    i 


!i 


88 


ASTORIA 


i'l 


.   f! 


:>■■ 

! 


I' 


I 


ridge  of  black  rock.  A  current,  however,  sets  diago- 
nally to  the  left  of  this  rocky  barrier,  where  there  is 
a  chasm  forty-five  yards  in  width.  Through  this  the 
whole  body  of  the  river  roars  along,  swelling  and 
whirling  and  boiling  for  some  distance  in  the  wildest 
confusion.  Through  this  tremendous  channel  the  in- 
trepid explorers  of  the  river,  Lewis  and  Clarke,  passed 
safely  in  their  boats;  the  danger  being,  not  from  the 
rocks,  but  from  the  great  surges  and  whirlpools. 

At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  foot 
of  this  narrow  channel  is  a  rapid,  formed  by  two  rocky 
islands;  and  two  miles  beyond  is  a  second  great  fall, 
over  a  ledge  of  rocks  twenty  feet  high,  extending 
nearly  from  shore  to  shore.  The  river  is  again  com- 
pressed into  a  channel  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  feet 
wide,  worn  through  a  rough  bed  of  hard  black  rock, 
along  which  it  boils  and  roars  with  great  fury  for  the 
distance  of  three  miles.  This  is  called  "  The  Long 
Narrows." 

Here  is  the  great  fishing  place  of  the  Columbia. 
In  the  spring  of  the  year,  when  the  water  is  high,  the 
salmon  ascend  the  river  in  incredible  numbers.  As 
they  pass  through  this  narrow  strait,  the  Indians,  stand- 
ing on  the  rocks,  or  on  the  end  of  wooden  stages  pro- 
jecting from  the  banks,  scoop  them  up  with  small  nets 
distended  on  hoops  and  attached  to  long  handles,  and 
cast  them  on  the  shore. 

They  are  then  cured  and  packed  in  a  peculiar  man- 
ner. After  having  been  opened  and  disembowelled, 
they  are  exposed  to  the  sun  on  scaffolds  erected  on 
the  river  banks.  When  sufficiently  dry,  they  are 
pounded  fine  between  two  stones,  ]jressed  into  the 
smallest  compass,  and  packed  in  baskets  or  bales  of 
grass  matting,  about  two  feet  long  and  one  in  diameter, 
lined  with  the  cured  skin  of  a  salmon.  The  top  is 
likewise  covered  with  fish  skins,  secured  by  cords  pass- 
ing through  holes  in  the  edge  of  the  basket.     Pack- 


ASTORIA 


89 


ages  are  then  made,  each  conlainin.i?  twelve  of  these 
bales,  seven  at  bottom,  five  at  top,  pressed  close  to  each 
other,  with  the  corded  side  upward,  wrapped  in  mats 
and  corded.  These  are  placed  in  dry  situations,  and 
again  covered  with  matting.  Each  of  these  packages 
contains  from  ninety  to  a  hundred  pounds  of  dried 
fish,  which  in  this  state  will  keep  sound  for  several 
years.^ 

We  have  given  this  process  at  some  length,  as  fur- 
nished by  the  first  explorers,  because  it  marks  a  prac- 
tised ingenuity  in  preparing  articles  of  traffic  for  a 
market,  seldom  seen  among  our  aboriginals.  For  like 
reasons  we  would  make  especial  mention  of  the  village 
of  Wish-ram,  at  the  head  of  the  Long  Narrows,  as 
being  a  solitary  instance  of  an  aboriginal  trading  mart, 
or  emporium.  Here  the  salmon  caught  in  the  neighbor- 
ing rapids  were  "  warehoused/'  to  await  customers. 
Hither  the  tribes  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
repaired  with  the  fish  of  the  sea-coast,  the  roots, 
berries,  and  especially  the  wappatoo,  gathered  in  the 
lower  parts  of  the  river,  together  with  goods  and 
trinkets  obtained  from  the  ships  which  casually  visit 
the  coast.  Hither  also  the  tribes  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  brought  down  horses,  bear-grass,  quamash, 
and  other  commodities  of  the  interior.  The  merchant 
fishermen  at  the  falls  acted  as  middlemen  or  factors, 
and  passed  the  objects  of  traffic,  as  it  were,  cross- 
handed  ;  trading  away  part  of  the  wares  received  from 
the  mountain  tribes  to  those  of  the  river  and  the  plains, 
and  vice  versa:  their  packages  of  pounded  salmon  en- 
tered largely  into  the  system  of  barter,  and  being  car- 
ried off  in  opposite  directions,  found  their  way  to  the 
savage  hunting  camps  far  in  the  interior,  and  to  the 
casual  white  traders  who  touched  upon  the  coast. 

We  have  already  noticed  certain  contrarieties  of 
character  between  the  Indian  tribes,  produced  by  their 

*  Lewis  and  Clarke,  vol.  ii.  p.  32. 


i  i 


.,i  '■<■{ 


r: 


11 


90 


ASTORIA 


I 


I  J  :| 


:i 


It  I 


diet  and  mode  of  life;  and  nowhere  are  tliey  more 
apparent  than  about  the  falls  of  the  Columbia.  The 
Indians  of  this  great  fishing  mart  are  represented  by 
the  earliest  explorers  as  sleeker  and  fatter,  but  less 
hardy  and  active,  than  the  tribes  of  the  mountains  and 
the  prairies,  who  live  by  hunting,  or  of  the  upper  parts 
of  the  river,  where  fish  is  scanty,  and  the  inhabitants 
must  eke  out  their  subsistence  by  digging  roots  or  chas- 
ing the  deer.  Indeed,  whenever  an  Indian  of  the  upper 
country  is  too  lazy  to  hunt,  yet  is  fond  of  good  living,  he 
repairs  to  the  falls,  to  live  in  abundance  without  labor. 

"  By  such  worthless  dogs  as  these,"  says  an  honest 
trader  in  his  journal,  which  now  lies  before  us,  "  by 
such  worthless  dogs  as  these  are  these  noted  fishing- 
places  peopled,  which,  like  our  great  cities,  may 
with  propriety  be  called  the  headquarters  of  vitiated 
principles." 

The  habits  of  trade  and  the  avidity  of  gain  have 
their  corrupting  effects  even  in  the  wilderness,  as  may 
be  instanced  in  the  members  of  this  aboriginal  empo- 
rium; for  the  same  journalist  denounces  them  as 
*'  saucy,  impudent  rascals,  who  will  steal  when  they 
can,  and  pillage  whenever  a  weak  party  falls  in  their 
power." 

That  he  does  not  belie  them  will  be  evidenced  here- 
after, when  we  have  occasion  again  to  touch  at  Wish- 
ram  and  navigate  the  rapids.  In  the  present  instance 
the  travellers  effected  the  laborious  ascent  of  this  part 
of  the  river,  with  all  its  various  portages,  without  mo- 
lestation, and  once  more  launched  away  in  smooth 
water  above  the  high  falls. 

The  two  parties  continued  together,  without  material 
impediment,  for  three  or  four  hundred  miles  further 
up  the  Columbia;  Mr.  Thompson  appearing  to  take 
great  interest  in  the  success  of  Mr.  Stuart,  and  point- 
ing out  places  favorable,  as  he  said,  to  the  establish- 
ment of  his  contemplated  trading  post. 


ASTORIA 


91 


rial 
her 
ake 
int- 
ish- 


Mr.  Stuart,  who  (Hstrusted  his  sincerity,  at  length 
pretended  to  adopt  liis  advice,  and,  taking  leave  of 
him,  remained  as  if  to  estahlish  himself,  while  the 
other  proceeded  on  his  course  towards  the  mountains. 
No  sooner,  however,  had  he  fairly  departed  than  Mr. 
Stuart  again  pushed  forward,  under  guidance  of  the 
two  Indians,  nor  did  he  stop  until  he  had  arrived  witliin 
ahout  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  of  the  Spokan 
River,  which  he  considered  near  enough  to  keep  the 
rival  estahlishment  in  check. 

The  place  which  he  pitched  upon  for  his  trading  post 
was  a  point  of  land  ahout  three  miles  in  length  and  two 
in  breadth,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Oakinagan 
with  the  Columbia.  The  former  is  a  river  which  has 
its  source  in  a  considerable  lake  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  west  of  the  point  of  junction.  The  two 
rivers,  about  the  place  of  their  confluence,  are  bordered 
by  immense  prairies  covered  w'ith  herbage,  but  desti- 
tute of  trees.  The  point  itself  was  ornamented  with 
wild  flowers  of  every  hue,  in  which  innumerable  hum- 
ming-birds were  "  banqueting  nearly  the  livelong  day." 

The  situation  of  this  point  appeared  to  be  well 
adapted  for  a  trading  post.  The  climate  was  salu- 
brious, the  soil  fertile,  the  rivers  well  stocked  with  fish, 
the  natives  peaceable  and  friendly.  There  were  easy 
communications  with  the  interior  by  the  upper  w^aters 
of  the  Columbia  and  the  lateral  stream  of  the  Oakina- 
gan, while  the  downward  current  of  the  Columbia  fur- 
nished a  highway  to  Astoria. 

Availing  himself,  therefore,  of  the  driftwood  which 
had  collected  in  quantities  in  the  neighboring  bends  of 
the  river,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  men  set  to  work  to  erect 
a  house,  which  in  a  little  while  was  sufficiently  com- 
pleted for  their  residence ;  and  thus  was  established  the 
first  interior  post  of  the  company.  We  will  now  return 
to  notice  the  progress  of  affairs  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia. 


!    I 

1! 

I! 


92 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  XI 


The  sailing  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  departure  of  Mr. 
David  Stuart  and  his  detachment,  had  prochiced  a  strik- 
ing effect  on  affairs  at  Astoria.  The  natives  who  had 
swarmed  about  the  place  began  immediately  to  drop  off, 
until  at  length  not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen.  This,  at 
first,  was  attributed  to  the  want  of  peltries  with  which 
to  trade ;  but  in  a  little  while  the  mystery  was  explained 
in  a  more  alarming  manner.  A  conspiracy  was  said 
to  be  on  foot  among  the  neighboring  tribes  to  make  a 
combined  attack  upon  the  white  men,  now  that  they 
were  so  reduced  in  number.  For  this  purpose  there  had 
been  a  gathering  of  warriors  in  a  neighboring  bay, 
under  pretext  of  fishing  for  sturgeon ;  and  fleets  of 
canoes  were  expected  to  join  them  from  the  north  and 
south.  Even  Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chief,  notwith- 
standing his  professed  friendship  for  Mr.  M'Dougal, 
was  strongly  suspected  of  being  concerned  in  this  gen- 
eral combination. 

Alarmed  at  rumors  of  this  impending  danger,  the 
Astorians  suspended  their  regular  labor,  and  set  to 
work,  with  all  haste,  to  throw  up  temporary  works  for 
refuge  and  defence.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  they 
surrounded  their  dwelling-house  and  magazines  with 
a  picket  fence  ninety  feet  square,  flanked  by  two  bas- 
tions, on  which  were  mounted  four  four-pounders. 
Every  day  they  exercised  themselves  in  the  use  of  their 
weapons,  so  as  to  qualify  themselves  for  military  duty, 
and  at  night  ensconced  themselves  in  their  fortress  and 
posted  sentinels,  to  guard  against  surprise.  In  this 
way  they  hoped,  even  in  case  of  attack,  to  be  able  to 
hold  out  until  the  arrival  of  the  party  to  be  conducted 
by  Mr.  Hunt  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  or  until  the 
return  of  tho  Tonquin.  The  latter  dependence,  how- 
ever, was  doomed  soon  to  be  destroyed.    Early  in  Au- 


ASTORIA 


93 


gust,  a  wandering  band  of  savages  from  the  Strait  of 
Juan  dc  Inica,  made  their  appearance  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Cokimbia,  where  they  came  to  fish  for  sturgeon. 
They  brought  disastrous  accounts  of  tiie  Ton([uiu, 
which  were  .'it  first  treated  as  mere  fables,  but  which 
were  too  sadly  c  tifirnied  l)y  a  different  tribe  that  ar- 
rived a  few  days  subsequently.  We  shall  relate  the 
circumstances  of  this  nielandioly  affair  as  correctly 
as  the  casual  discrepancies  in  the  statements  that  have 
reached  us  will  permit. 

We  have  already  stated  that  the  Tonquin  set  sail 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  the  fifth  of  June.  The 
whole  number  of  persons  on  board  amounted  to  twenty- 
three.  In  one  of  the  outer  bays  they  picked  up,  from 
a  fishing  canoe,  an  Indian  named  Lamazee,  who  had 
already  made  two  voyages  along  the  coast,  and  knew 
something  of  the  language  of  the  various  tribes.  He 
agreed  to  accompany  them  as  interpreter. 

Steering  to  the  north,  Captain  Thorn  arrived  in  a 
few  days  at  Vancouver's  Island,  and  anchored  in  the 
harbor  of  Neweetee,  very  much  against  the  advice  of 
his  Indian  interpreter,  who  warned  him  against  the 
perfidious  character  of  the  natives  of  this  part  of  the 
coast.  Numbers  of  canoes  soon  came  off,  bringing 
sea-otter  skins  to  sell.  It  was  too  late  in  the  day  to 
commence  a  traffic,  but  Mr.  M'Kay,  accompanied  by  a 
few  of  the  men,  went  on  shore  to  a  large  village  to 
visit  Wicananish,  the  chief  of  the  surrounding  terri- 
tory, six  of  the  natives  remaining  on  board  as  hostages. 
He  was  received  with  great  professions  of  friendship, 
entertained  hospitably,  and  a  couch  of  sea-otter  skins 
was  prepared  for  him  in  the  dwelling  of  the  chieftain, 
where  he  was  prevailed  upon  to  pass  the  night. 

In  the  morning,  before  Mr.  M'Kay  had  returned  to 
the  ship,  great  numbers  of  the  natives  came  off  in  their 
crnoes  to  trade,  headed  by  two  sons  of  Wicananish. 
As  thry  brought  abundance  of   sea-otter  skins,   and 


94 


ASTORIA 


,4        r 


there  was  every  appearance  of  a  brisk  trade,  Captain 
Thorn  did  not  wait  for  the  return  of  Mr.  IM'Kay,  but 
spread  his  wares  upon  deck,  making  a  tempting  display 
of  blankets,  cloths,  knives,  beads,  and  fish-hooks,  ex- 
pecting a  prompt  and  profitable  sale.  The  Indians, 
however,  were  not  so  eager  and  simple  as  he  had  sup- 
posed, having  learned  the  art  of  bargaining  and  the 
value  of  merchandise  from  the  casual  traders  along 
the  coast.  They  were  guided,  too,  by  a  shrewd  old 
chief  named  Nookamis,  who  had  grown  gray  in  traffic 
with  New  England  skippers,  and  prided  himself  upon 
his  acuteness.  His  opinion  seemed  to  regulate  the 
market.  When  Captain  Thorn  made  what  he  con- 
sidered a  liberal  offer  for  an  otter-skin,  the  wily  old 
Indian  treated  it  with  scorn,  and  asked  more  than 
double.  His  comrades  all  took  their  cue  from  him,  and 
not  an  otter-skin  was  to  be  had  at  a  reasonable  rate. 

The  old  fellow,  hovvcver,  overshot  his  mark,  and 
mistook  the  character  of  the  man  he  was  treating  with. 
Thorn  was  a  plain,  straightforward  sailor,  who  never 
had  two  minds  nor  two  prices  in  his  dealings,  was  de- 
ficient in  patience  and  pliancy,  and  totally  wanting  in 
the  chicanery  of  traffic.  He  had  a  vast  deal  of  stern, 
but  honest  pride  in  his  nature,  and,  moreover,  held  the 
whole  savage  race  in  sovereign  contempt.  Abandon- 
ing all  further  attempts,  therefore,  to  bargain  with  his 
shuffiing  customers,  he  thrust  his  hands  into  his  pockets, 
and  paced  up  and  down  the  deck  in  sullen  silence.  The 
cunning  old  Indian  followed  him  to  and  fro,  holding 
out  a  sea-otter  skin  to  him  at  every  turn,  and  pestering 
him  to  trade.  Finding  other  means  unavailing,  he 
suddenly  changed  his  tone,  and  began  to  jeer  and 
banter  him  upon  the  mean  prices  he  offered.  This  was 
too  much  for  the  patience  of  the  captain,  who  was  never 
remarkable  for  relishing  a  joke,  especially  when  at  his 
own  expense.  Turning  suddenly  upon  his  persecutor, 
he  snatched  the  proffered  otter-skin  from  his  hands, 


ASTORIA 


95 


rubbed  it  in  his  face,  and  dismissed  him  over  the  side 
of  the  ship  with  no  very  compHmentary  appHcation  to 
accelerate  his  exit.  He  then  kicked  the  peUries  to  the 
right  and  left  about  the  deck,  and  broke  up  the  market 
in  the  most  ignominious  manner.  Old  Nookamis  made 
for  shore  in  a  furious  passion,  in  which  he  was  joined 
by  Shewish,  one  of  the  sons  of  Wicananish,  who  went 
off  breathing  vengeance,  and  the  ship  was  soon  aban- 
doned by  the  natives. 

When  Mr.  M'Kay  returned  on  board,  the  interpreter 
related  what  had  passed,  and  begged  him  to  prevail 
upon  the  captain  to  make  sail,  as,  from  his  knowledge 
of  the  temper  and  pride  of  the  people  of  the  place,  lie 
was  sure  they  would  resent  the  indignity  offered  to  one 
of  their  chiefs.  Mr.  M'Kay,  who  himself  possessed  some 
experience  of  Indian  character,  went  to  the  captain, 
who  was  still  pacing  the  deck  in  moody  humor,  repre- 
sented the  danger  to  which  his  hasty  act  had  exposed 
the  vessel,  and  urged  him  to  weigh  anchor.  The  cap- 
tain made  light  of  his  counsels,  and  pointed  to  his  can- 
non and  fire-arms  as  a  sufficient  safeguard  against 
naked  savages.  Further  remonstrances  only  provoked 
taunting  replies  and  sharp  altercations.  The  day  passed 
away  without  any  signs  of  hostility,  and  at  night  the 
captain  retired  as  usual  to  his  cabin,  taking  no  more 
than  the  usual  precautions. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  while  the 
captain  and  Mr.  M'Kay  were  yet  asleep,  a  canoe  came 
alongside  in  which  w^ere  twenty  Indians,  commanded 
by  young  Shewish.  They  were  unarmed,  their  asi:)ect 
and  demeanor  friendly,  and  they  held  up  otter-skins, 
and  made  signs  indicative  of  a  wish  to  trade.  The  cau- 
tion enjoined  by  Mr.  Astor,  in  respect  to  the  admission 
of  Indians  on  board  of  the  ship,  had  been  neglected  for 
some  time  past,  and  the  officer  of  the  watch,  perceiving 
those  in  the  canoe  to  be  without  weapons,  and  having 
received  no  orders  to  the  contrary,  readily  permitted 


^  m 


PI 


k 
n 

n 

1* ..' 


h 


i   •¥ 


' 


ill 


96 


ASTORIA 


them  to  mount  the  deck.  Another  canoe  soon  suc- 
ceeded, the  crew  of  which  was  likewise  admitted.  In 
a  Httle  while  other  canoes  came  off,  and  Indians  were 
soon  clambering  into  the  vessel  on  all  sides. 

The  officer  of  the  watch  now  felt  alarmed,  and  called 
to  Captain  Thorn  and  Mr.  M'Kay.  By  the  time  they 
came  on  deck,  it  was  thronged  with  Indians.  The  in- 
terpreter noticed  to  Mr.  M'Kay  that  many  of  the  natives 
w^ore  short  mantles  of  skins,  and  intimated  a  suspicion 
that  they  were  secretly  armed.  Mr.  M'Kay  urged  the 
captain  to  clear  the  ship  and  get  under  way.  He  again 
made  light  of  the  advice ;  but  the  augmented  swarm  of 
canoes  about  the  ship,  and  the  numbers  still  putting  off 
from  shore,  at  length  awakened  his  distrust,  and  he  or- 
dered some  of  the  crew  to  weigh  anchor,  while  some 
were  sent  aloft  to  make  sail. 

The  Indians  now  offered  to  trade  with  the  captain 
on  his  own  terms,  prompted,  apparently,  by  the  ap- 
proaching departure  of  the  ship.  Accordingly,  a  hur- 
ried trade  was  commenced.  The  main  articles  sought 
by  the  savages  in  barter,  were  knives ;  as  fast  as  some 
were  supplied  they  moved  off,  and  others  succeeded. 
By  degrees  they  were  thus  distributed  about  the  deck, 
and  all  with  weapons. 

The  anchor  was  now  nearly  up,  the  sails  were  loose, 
and  the  captain,  in  a  loud  and  peremptory  tone,  or- 
dered the  ship  to  be  cleared.  In  an  instant,  a  signal 
yell  was  given;  it  was  echoed  on  every  side,  knives 
and  war-clubs  were  brandished  in  every  direction,  and 
the  savages  rushed  upon  their  marked  victims. 

The  first  that  fell  was  Mr.  Lewis,  the  ship's  clerk. 
He  was  leaning,  with  folded  arms,  over  a  bale  of 
blankets,  engaged  in  bargaining,  when  he  received  a 
deadly  stab  in  the  back,  and  fell  down  the  companion- 
way. 

Mr.  M'Kay,  who  was  seated  on  the  taffrail,  sprang 
on  his  feet,  but  was  instantly  knocked  down  with  a  war- 


ASTORIA 


97 


off 


club  and  flung  backwards  into  the  sea,  where  he  was 
dispatched  by  the  women  in  the  canoes. 

In  the  meantime  Captain  Thorn  made  desperate 
fight  against  fearful  odds.  He  was  a  powerful  as  well 
as  a  resolute  man,  but  he  had  come  upon  deck  without 
weapons.  Shewish,  the  young  chief,  singled  him  out 
as  his  peculiar  prey,  and  rushed  upon  him  at  the  first 
outbreak.  The  captain  had  barely  time  to  draw  a 
clasp-knife,  with  one  blow  of  which  he  laid  the  young 
savage  dead  at  his  feet.  Several  of  the  stoutest  fol- 
lowers of  Shewish  now  set  upon  him.  He  defended 
himself  vigorously,  dealing  crippling  blows  to  right 
and  left,  and  strewing  the  quarter-deck  with  the  slain 
and  wounded.  His  object  was  to  fight  his  way  to  the 
cabin,  where  there  were  fire-arms ;  but  he  was  hemmed 
in  with  foes,  covered  with  wounds,  and  faint  with  loss 
of  blood.  For  an  instant  he  leaned  upon  the  tiller 
wheel,  when  a  blow  from  behind,  with  a  war-club, 
felled  him  to  the  deck,  where  he  was  dispatched  with 
knives  and  thrown  overboard. 

While  this  was  transacting  upon  the  quarter-deck,  a 
chance-medley  fight  was  going  on  throughout  the  ship. 
The  crew  fought  desperately  with  knives,  handspikes, 
and  whatever  weapon  they  could  seize  upon  in  the  mo- 
ment of  surprise.  They  were  soon,  however,  over- 
powered by  numbers,  and  mercilessly  butchered. 

As  to  the  seven  who  had  been  sent  aloft  to  make 
sail,  they  contemplated  with  horror  the  carnage  that 
was  going  on  below.  Being  destitute  of  weapons,  they 
let  themselves  down  by  the  running  rigging,  in  hopes 
of  getting  between  decks.  One  fell  in  the  attempt,  and 
was  instantly  dispatched ;  another  received  a  death-blow 
in  the  back  as  he  was  descending;  a  third,  Stephen 
Weekes,  the  armorer,  was  mortally  wounded  as  he 
was  getting  down  the  hatchway. 

The  remaining  four  made  good  their  retreat  into  the 
cabin,  where  they  found  Mr.  Lewis,  still  alive,  though 

7 


■  ' 

-:     ii 


^i^ 


i 


'i 


i  i    3 

ill    '■ 


98 


ASTORIA 


mortally  wounded.  Barricading  the  cabin  door,  they 
broke  holes  through  the  companion-way,  and,  with  the 
muskets  and  ammunition  which  were  at  hand,  opened 
a  brisk  fire  that  soon  cleared  the  deck. 

Thus  far  the  Indian  interpreter,  from  whom  these 
particulars  are  derived,  had  been  an  eye-witness  to  the 
deadly  conflict.  He  had  taken  no  part  in  it,  and  had 
been  spared  by  the  natives  as  being  of  their  race.  In 
the  confusion  of  the  moment  he  took  refu^-e  with  the 
rest,  in  the  canoes.  The  survivors  of  the  crew  now 
sallied  forth,  and  discharged  some  of  the  deck  guns, 
which  did  great  execution  among  the  canoes,  and  drove 
all  the  savages  to  shore. 

For  the  remainder  of  the  day  no  one  ventured  to  put 
off  to  the  ship,  deterred  by  the  effects  of  the  fire-arms. 
The  night  passed  away  without  any  further  attempt 
on  the  part  of  the  natives.  When  the  day  dawned,  the 
Tonquin  still  lay  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  her  sails  all 
loose  and  flapping  in  the  wind,  and  no  one  apparently 
on  board  of  her.  After  a  time,  some  of  the  canoes 
ventured  forth  to  reconnoitre,  taking  with  them  the 
interpreter.  They  paddled  about  her,  keeping  cau- 
tiously at  a  distance,  but  growing  more  and  more  em- 
boldened at  seeing  her  quiet  and  lifeless.  One  man  at 
lengtli  made  his  appearance  on  the  deck,  and  was 
recognized  by  the  interpreter  as  Mr.  Lewis.  He  made 
friendly  signs,  and  invited  them  on  board.  It  was 
long  before  they  ventured  to  comply.  Those  who 
mounted  the  deck  met  with  no  opposition;  no  one  was 
to  be  seen  on  board ;  for  Mr.  Lewis,  after  inviting 
them,  had  disappeared.  Other  canoes  now  pressed  for- 
ward to  board  the  prize ;  the  decks  were  soon  crowded, 
and  the  sides  covered  with  clambering  savages,  all  in- 
tent on  plunder.  In  the  midst  of  their  eagerness  and 
exultation,  the  ship  blew  up  with  a  tremendous  ex- 
plosion. Arms,  legs,  and  mutilated  bodies  were  blown 
into  the  air,  and  dreadful  havoc  was  made  in  the  sur- 


|: 


ASTORIA 


99 


at 

vas 
ide 
as 
■ho 
^as 


rounding  canoes.  The  interpreter  was  in  the  main- 
chains  at  the  time  of  the  explosion,  and  was  thrown  un- 
hurt into  the  water,  where  he  succeeded  in  getting  into 
one  of  the  canoes.  According  to  his  statement,  the 
bay  presented  an  awful  spectacle  after  the  catastrophe. 
The  ship  had  disappeared,  but  the  bay  was  covered  with 
fragments  of  the  wreck,  with  shattered  canoes,  and 
Indians  swimming  for  their  lives,  or  struggling  in  the 
agonies  of  death ;  while  those  who  had  escaped  the 
danger  remained  aghast  and  stupefied,  or  made  with 
frantic  panic  for  the  shore.  Upwards  of  a  hundred 
savages  were  destroyed  by  the  explosion,  many  more 
were  shockingly  mutilated,  and  for  days  afterwards 
the  limbs  and  bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  upon  the 
beach. 

The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  overwhelmed 
with  consternation  at  this  astounding  calamity,  which 
had  burst  upon  them  in  the  very  moment  of  triumph. 
The  warriors  sat  mute  and  mournful,  while  the  women 
filled  the  air  with  loud  lamentations.  Their  weeping 
and  wailing,  however,  was  suddenly  changed  into  yells 
of  fury  at  the  sight  of  four  unfortunate  white  men, 
brought  captive  into  the  village.  They  had  been  driven 
on  shore  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  and  taken  at  some 
distance  along  the  coast. 

The  interpreter  was  permitted  to  converse  with 
them.  They  proved  to  be  the  four  brave  fellows  who 
had  m.ade  such  desperate  defence  from  the  cabin.  The 
interpreter  gathered  from  them  some  of  the  particulars 
already  related.  They  told  him  further,  that  after 
they  had  beaten  off  the  enemy  and  cleared  the  ship, 
Lewis  advised  that  they  should  slip  the  cable  and  en- 
deavor to  get  to  sea.  They  declined  to  take  his  ad- 
vice, alleging  that  the  wind  set  too  strongly  into  the 
bay,  and  would  drive  them  on  shore.  They  resolved, 
as  soon  as  it  was  dark,  to  put  off  quietly  in  the  ship's 
boat,  which  they  would  be  able  to  do  unperceived,  and 


1*  '  i 


lOO 


ASTORIA 


li  i 


\l 


■  i 

t 

ji 

1 

:| 

i 

[  1 

1 

a 

i 

' 

1 

to  coast  along  back  to  Astoria.  They  put  their  resolu- 
tion into  effect ;  but  Lewis  refused  to  accompany  them, 
being  disabled  by  his  wound,  hopeless  of  escape,  and 
determined  on  a  terrible  revenge.  On  the  voyage  out, 
he  had  repeatedly  expressed  a  presentiment  that  he 
should  die  by  his  own  hands ;  thinking  it  highl}-  prob- 
able that  he  should  be  engaged  in  some  contest  with 
the  natives,  and  being  resolved,  in  case  of  extremity, 
to  commit  suicide  rather  than  be  made  a  prisoner.  He 
now  declared  his  intention  to  remain  on  board  of  the 
ship  until  daylight,  to  decoy  as  many  of  the  savages 
on  board  as  possible,  then  to  set  fire  to  the  powder 
magazine,  and  terminate  his  life  by  a  signal  act  of 
vengeance.  How  well  he  succeeded  has  been  shown. 
His  companions  bade  him  a  melancholy  adieu,  and  set 
off  on  their  precarious  expedition.  They  strove  with 
might  and  main  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but  found  it  im- 
possible to  weather  a  point  of  land,  and  were  at  length 
compelled  to  take  shelter  in  a  small  cove,  where  they 
hoped  to  remain  concealed  until  the  wind  should  be 
more  favorable.  Exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watching, 
they  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  and  in  that  state  were  sur- 
prised by  the  savages.  Better  had  it  been  for  those  un- 
fortunate men  had  they  remained  with  Lewis,  and 
shared  his  heroic  death :  as  it  was,  they  perished  in  a 
more  painful  and  protracted  manner,  being  sacrificed 
by  the  natives  to  the  manes  of  their  friends  with  all 
the  lingering  tortures  of  savage  cruelty.  Some  time 
after  their  death,  the  interpreter,  wdio  had  remained  a 
kind  of  prisoner  at  large,  effected  his  escape,  and 
brought  the  tragical  tidings  to  Astoria. 

Such  is  the  melancholy  story  of  the  Tonquin,  and 
such  was  the  fate  of  her  brave,  but  headstrong  com- 
mander, and  her  adventurous  crew.  It  is  a  catastrophe 
that  shows  the  importance,  in  all  enterprises  of  mo- 
ment, to  keep  in  mind  the  general  instructions  c^  ihe 
sagacious  heads  which  devise  them.     Mr.  Astor  was 


ASTORIA 


lOI 


all 


■11  o- 
ihe 
vas 


well  aware  of  the  perils  to  which  ships  were  exposed 
on  this  coast  from  quarrels  with  the  natives,  and  from 
perfidious  attempts  of  the  latter  to  surprise  and  capture 
them  in  unguarded  moments.  He  had  repeatedly  en- 
joined it  upon  Captain  Thorn,  in  conversation,  and  at 
parting,  in  his  letter  of  instructions,  to  be  courteous 
and  kind  in  his  dealings  with  the  savages,  but  by  no 
means  to  confide  in  their  apparent  friendship,  nor  to 
admit  more  than  a  fciv  on  board  of  his  ship  at  a  time. 

Had  the  deportment  of  Captain  Thorn  been  properly 
regulated,  the  insult  so  wounding  to  savage  pride  would 
never  have  been  given.  Had  he  enforced  the  rule  to 
admit  but  a  few  at  a  time,  the  savages  would  not  have 
been  able  to  get  the  mastery.  He  was  too  irritable, 
however,  to  practise  the  necessary  self-command,  and, 
having  been  nurtured  in  a  proud  contempt  of  danger, 
thought  it  beneath  him  to  manifest  any  fear  of  a  crew 
of  unarmed  savages. 

With  all  his  faults  and  foibles,  we  cannot  but  speak 
of  him  with  esteem,  and  deplore  his  untimely  fate ;  for 
we  remember  him  well  in  early  life,  as  a  companion  in 
pleasant  scenes  and  joyous  hours.  When  on  shore, 
among  his  friends,  he  was  a  frank,  manly,  sound- 
hearted  sailor.  On  board  ship  he  evidently  assumed 
the  hardness  of  deportment  and  sternness  of  de- 
meanor which  many  deem  essential  to  naval  service. 
Throughout  the  whole  of  the  expedition,  however,  he 
showed  himself  loyal,  single-minded,  straightforward, 
and  fearless;  and  if  the  fate  of  his  vessel  may  be 
charged  to  his  harshness  and  imprudence,  we  should 
recollect  that  he  paid  for  his  error  with  his  life. 

The  loss  of  the  Tonquin  was  a  grievous  blow  to  the 
infant  establishment  of  Astoria,  and  one  that  threat- 
ened to  bring  after  it  a  train  of  disasters.  The  intel- 
ligence of  it  did  not  reach  Mr.  Astor  until  many 
months  afterwards.  He  felt  it  in  all  its  force,  and 
was  aware  that  it  must  cripple,  if  not  entirely  defeat, 


!   E     !i 


102 


ASTORIA 


.   ; 

I 

% 

; 

i    1 

( 

I 

1     ^ 

1 

• 
I 

1    '    ' 

the  great  scheme  of  his  ambition.  In  his  letters,  writ- 
ten at  the  time,  he  speaks  of  it  as  "  a  calamity,  the 
length  of  which  he  could  not  foresee."  He  indulged, 
however,  in  no  weak  and  vain  lamentation,  but  sought 
to  devise  a  prompt  and  efficient  remedy.  The  very 
same  evening  he  appeared  at  the  theatre  with  his  usual 
serenity  of  countenance.  A  friend,  who  knew  the  dis- 
astrous intelligence  he  had  received,  expressed  his  as- 
tonishment that  he  could  have  calmness  of  spirit  suf- 
ficient for  such  a  scene  of  light  amusement.  "  What 
would  you  have  me  do?  "  was  his  characteristic  reply; 
"  would  you  have  me  stay  at  home  and  weep  for  what 
I  cannot  help  ?  " 


CHAPTER   XII 

The  tidings  of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  mas- 
sacre of  her  crew,  struck  dismay  into  the  hearts  of  the 
Astorians.  They  found  themselves  a  mere  handful  of 
men,  on  a  savage  coast,  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes, 
who  would  doubtless  be  incited  and  encouraged  to 
deeds  of  violence  by  the  late  fearful  catastrophe.  In 
this  juncture  Mr.  M'Dougal,  we  are  told,  had  recourse 
to  a  stratagem  by  which  to  avail  himself  of  the  igno- 
rance and  credulity  of  the  savages,  and  which  certainly 
does  credit  to  his  ingenuity. 

The  natives  of  the  coast,  and,  indeed,  of  all  the 
regions  west  of  the  mountains,  had  an  extreme  dread 
of  the  small-pox;  that  terrific  scourge  having,  a  few 
years  previously,  appeared  among  them,  and  almost 
swept  off  entire  tribes.  Its  origin  and  nature  were 
wrapped  in  mystery,  and  they  conceived  it  an  evil  in- 
flicted upon  them  by  the  Great  Spirit,  or  brought  among 
them  by  the  white  men.  The  last  idea  was  seized  upon 
by  Mr.  M'Dougal.  He  assembled  several  of  the  chief- 
tains whom  he  believed  to  be  in  the  conspiracy.    When 


ASTORIA 


103 


inly 

the 
ead 
few 
nost 
vere 
in- 


they  were  all  seated  around,  he  informed  them  that 
he  had  heard  of  the  treachery  of  some  of  their  north- 
ern brethren  towards  the  Tonquin,  and  was  determined 
on  vengeance.  "  The  white  men  among  you,"  said  he, 
"  are  few  in  number,  it  is  true,  but  they  are  mighty 
in  medicine.  See  here,"  continued  he,  drawing  forth 
a  small  bottle  and  holding  it  before  their  eyes,  "  in  this 
bottle  I  hold  the  small-pox,  safely  corked  up;  I  have 
but  to  draw  the  cork,  and  let  loose  the  pestilence,  to 
sweep  man,  woman,  and  child  from  the  face  of  the 
earth." 

The  chiefs  were  struck  with  horror  and  alarm.  They 
implored  him  not  to  uncork  the  bottle,  since  they  and 
all  their  people  were  firm  friends  of  the  white  men,  and 
would  always  remain  so;  but,  should  the  small-pox  be 
once  let  out.  it  would  run  like  wildfire  throughout  the 
country,  sweeping  ofi;  the  good  as  well  as  the  bad ;  and 
surely  he  would  not  be  so  unjust  as  to  punish  his  friends 
for  crimes  committed  by  his  enemies. 

Mr.  M'Dougal  pretended  to  be  convinced  by  their 
reasoning,  and  assured  them  that,  so  long  as  the  white 
people  should  be  unmolested,  and  the  conduct  of  their 
Indian  neighbors  friendly  and  hospitable,  the  phial  of 
wrath  should  remain  sealed  up;  but,  on  the  least 
hostility,  the  fatal  cork  should  be  drawn. 

From  this  time,  it  is  added,  he  was  much  dreaded  by 
the  natives,  as  one  who  held  their  fate  in  his  hands, 
and  was  called,  by  way  of  preeminence,  "  the  Great 
Small-pox  Chief." 

All  this  while,  the  labors  at  the  infant  settlement 
went  on  with  unremitting  assiduity,  and,  by  the  26th 
of  September,  a  commodious  mansion,  spacious  enough 
to  accommodate  all  hands,  was  completed.  It  was  built 
of  stone  and  clay,  there  being  no  calcareous  stone  in 
the  neighborhood  from  which  lime  for  mortar  could 
be  procured.  The  schooner  was  also  finished,  and 
launched,  with  the  accustomed  ceremony,  on  the  sec- 


i:! 


11 


i 


*' 


104 


ASTORIA 


oncl  of  October,  and  took  her  station  below  the  fort. 
She  was  named  the  Dolly,  and  was  the  first  American 
vessel  launched  on  this  coast. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  in  the  evening,  the  little  com- 
munity at  Astoria  was  enlivened  by  the  unexpected  ar- 
rival of  a  detachment  from  Mr.  David  Stuart's  post 
on  the  Oakinagan.  It  consisted  of  two  of  the  clerks 
and  two  of  the  privates.  They  brought  favorable  ac- 
counts of  the  new  establishment,  but  reported  that, 
as  Mr.  Stuart  was  apprehensive  there  might  be  a  diffi- 
culty of  subsisting  his  whole  party  throughout  the 
winter,  he  had  sent  one  half  back  to  Astoria,  retaining 
with  him  only  Ross,  Montigny,  and  two  others.  Such 
is  the  hardihood  of  the  Indian  trader.  In  the  heart 
of  a  savage  and  unknown  country,  seven  hundred 
miles  from  the  main  body  of  his  fellow-adventurers, 
Stuart  had  dismissed  half  of  his  little  number,  and  was 
prepared  with  the  residue  to  brave  all  the  perils  of  the 
wilderness,  and  the  rigors  of  a  long  and  dreary  winter. 

With  the  return  party  came  a  Canadian  creole  named 
Regis  Brugiere  and  an  Iroquois  hunter,  with  his  wife 
and  two  children.  As  these  two  personages  belong  to 
certain  classes  which  have  derived  their  neculiar  char- 
acteristics from  the  fur  trade,  we  deem  some  few  par- 
ticulars concerning  them  pertinent  to  the  nature  of  this 
work. 

Brugiere  was  of  a  class  of  beaver  trappers  and  hunt- 
ers technically  called  "  Freemen,"  in  the  language  of 
the  traders.  They  are  generally  Canadians  by  birth, 
and  of  French  descent,  who  have  been  employed  for  a 
term  of  years  by  some  fur  company,  but,  their  term 
being  expired,  continue  to  hunt  and  trap  on  their  own 
account,  trading  with  the  company  like  the  Indians. 
Hence  they  derive  their  appellation  of  Freemen,  to 
distinguish  them  from  the  trappers  who  are  bound  for 
a  number  of  years,  and  receive  wages,  or  hunt  on 
shares. 


ASTORIA 


to: 


on 


Having  passed  their  early  youth  in  ti  e  wilderness, 
separated  almost  entirely  from  civilized  man,  and  in 
frequent  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  they  relapse, 
with  a  facility  common  to  human  nature,  into  the 
habitudes  of  savage  life.  Though  no  longer  bound  by 
engagements  to  continue  in  the  interior,  they  have  be- 
come so  accustomed  to  the  freedom  of  the  forest  and 
the  prairie,  that  they  look  back  with  repugnance  upon 
the  restraints  of  civilization.  Most  of  them  inter- 
marry with  the  natives,  and,  like  the  latter,  have  often 
a  plurality  of  wives.  Wanderers  of  the  wilderness, 
according  to  the  vicissitudes  of  the  seasons,  the  migra- 
tions of  animals,  and  the  plenty  or  scarcity  of  game, 
they  lead  a  precarious  and  unsettled  existence ;  ex- 
posed to  sun  and  storm,  and  all  kinds  of  hardships, 
until  they  resemble  Indians  in  complexion  as  well  as 
in  tastes  and  habits.  From  time  to  time,  they  bring  the 
peltries  they  have  collected  to  the  trading  houses  of 
the  company  in  whose  employ  they  have  been  brought 
up.  Here  they  traffic  them  away  for  such  articles  of 
merchandise  or  ammunition  as  they  may  stand  in  need 
of.  At  the  time  when  Montreal  was  the  great  em- 
porium of  the  fur  trader,  one  of  these  freemen  of  the 
wilderness  would  suddenly  return,  after  an  absence  of 
many  years,  among  his  old  friends  and  comrades. 
He  would  be  greeted  as  one  risen  from  the  dead ;  and 
with  the  greater  welcome,  as  he  returned  flush  of 
money.  A  short  time,  however,  spent  in  revelry,  would 
be  sufficient  to  drain  his  purse  and  sate  him  with  civi- 
lized life,  and  he  would  return  with  new  relish  to  the 
unshackled  freedom  of  the  forest. 

Numbers  of  men  of  this  class  were  scattered 
throughout  the  northwest  territories.  Some  of  them 
retained  a  little  of  the  thrift  and  forethought  of  the 
civilized  man,  and  became  wealthy  among  their  im- 
provident neighbors ;  their  wealth  being  chiefly  dis- 
played in  large  bands  of  horses,  which  covered  the 


io6 


ASTORIA 


.1 


3 


S     ' 


prairies  in  the  vicinity  of  their  abodes.  Most  of  them, 
however,  were  prone  to  assimilate  to  the  red  man  in 
their  heedlessness  of  the  future. 

Such  was  Regis  Brugiere,  a  freeman  and  rover  of 
the  wilderness.  Having  been  brouglit  up  in  the  service 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  he  had  followed  in  the 
train  of  one  of  its  expeditions  across  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  undertaken  to  trap  for  the  trading  post  es- 
tablished on  the  Spokan  River.  In  the  course  of  his 
hunting  excursions  he  had  either  accidentally,  or  de- 
signedly, found  his  way  to  the  post  of  Mr.  Stuart,  and 
had  been  prevailed  upon  to  descend  the  Columbia,  and 
"  try  his  luck  "  at  Astoria. 

Ignace  Shonowane,  the  Iroquois  hunter,  was  a  speci- 
men of  a  different  class.  He  was  one  of  those  aborigi- 
nals of  Canada  who  had  partially  conformed  to  the 
habits  of  civilization  and  the  doctrines  of  Christianity, 
under  the  influence  of  the  French  colonists  and  the 
Catholic  priests;  who  seem  generally  to  have  been 
more  successful  in  conciliating,  taming,  and  converting 
the  savages,  than  their  English  and  Protestant  rivals. 
These  half-civilized  Indians  retained  some  of  the  good, 
and  many  of  the  evil  qualities  of  their  original  stock. 
They  were  first-rate  hunters,  and  dexterous  in  the 
management  of  the  canoe.  They  could  undergo  great 
privations,  and  were  admirable  for  the  service  of  the 
rivers,  lakes,  and  forests,  provided  they  could  be  kept 
sober,  and  in  proper  subordination ;  but  once  inflamed 
with  liquor,  to  which  they  were  madly  addicted,  all  the 
dormant  passions  inherent  in  their  nature  were  prone 
to  break  forth,  and  to  hurry  them  into  the  most  vindic- 
tive and  bloody  acts  of  violence. 

Though  they  generally  professed  the  Roman  Catholic 
religion,  yet  it  was  mixed,  occasionally,  with  some  of 
their  ancient  superstitions ;  and  they  retained  much  of 
the  Indian  belief  in  charms  and  omens.  Numbers  of 
these  men  were  employed  by  the  Northwest  Company 


ASTORIA 


107 


ting 
als. 
|ood, 
ock. 
the 
reat 
the 
ept 
med 
the 
-one 
Idic- 

lolic 
of 
of 
of 

[any 


as  trappers,  hunters,  and  canoe  men,  but  on  hnver 
terms  than  were  allowed  to  white  men.  Ignace  Shuno- 
wane  liad,  in  this  way,  followed  the  enterprise  of  the 
company  to  the  hanks  of  the  Spokan,  being,  probably, 
one  of  the  hrst  of  his  tribe  that  had  traversed  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Such  were  some  of  the  motley  populace  of  the  wil- 
derness, incident  to  the  fur  trade,  who  were  gradually 
attracted  to  the  new  settlement  of  Astoria. 

The  month  of  October  now  began  to  give  indications 
of  approaching  winter.  Hitherto,  the  colonists  had 
been  well  pleased  with  the  climate.  The  summer  had 
been  temperate,  the  mercury  never  rising  above  eighty 
degrees.  Westerly  winds  had  prevailed  during  the 
spring  and  the  early  part  of  summer,  and  been  suc- 
ceeded by  fresh  breezes  from  the  northwest.  In  the 
month  of  October  the  southerly  winds  set  in,  bringing 
with  them  frequent  rain. 

The  Indians  now  began  to  quit  the  borders  of  the 
ocean,  and  to  retire  to  their  winter  quarters  in  the 
sheltered  bosom  of  the  forests,  or  along  the  small 
rivers  and  brooks.  The  rainy  season,  which  com- 
mences in  October,  continues,  with  little  intermission, 
until  April ;  and  though  the  winters  are  generally  mild, 
the  mercury  seldom  sinking  below  the  freezing  point, 
yet  the  tempests  of  wind  and  rain  are  terrible.  The 
sun  is  sometimes  obscured  for  weeks,  the  brooks  swell 
into  roaring  torrents,  and  the  country  is  threatened 
with  a  deluge. 

The  departure  of  the  Indians  to  their  winter  quarters 
gradually  rendered  provisions  scanty,  and  obliged  the 
colonists  to  send  out  foraging  expeditions  in  the  Dolly. 
Still  the  little  handful  of  adventurers  kept  up  their 
spirits  in  their  lonely  fort  at  Astoria,  looking  forward 
to  the  time  wdien  they  should  be  animated  and  rein- 
forced by  the  party  under  Mr.  Hunt,  that  was  to  come 
to  them  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


I 


•io8 


ASTORIA 


'  ?i 


The  year  gradually  wore  away.  The  rain,  which 
had  poured  down  almost  incessantly  since  the  first  of 
October,  cleared  up  towards  the  evening  of  the  31st 
of  December,  and  the  morning  of  the  first  of  January 
ushered  in  a  day  of  sunshine. 

The  hereditary  French  holiday  spirit  of  the  French 
voyageurs  is  hardly  to  be  depressed  by  any  adversi- 
ties ;  and  they  can  manage  to  get  up  a  fete  in  the  most 
squalid  situations,  and  under  the  most  untoward  cir- 
cumstances. An  extra  allowance  of  rum,  and  a  little 
flour  to  make  cakes  and  puddings,  constitute  a 
"  regale  " ;  and  they  forget  all  their  toils  and  troubles 
in  the  song  and  dance. 

On  the  present  occasion,  the  partners  endeavored  to 
celebrate  the  new  year  with  some  effect.  At  sunrise 
the  drums  beat  to  arms,  the  colors  were  hoisted,  with 
three  rounds  of  small  arms  and  three  discharges  of 
cannon.  The  day  was  devoted  to  games  of  agility  and 
strength,  and  other  amusements ;  and  grog  was  tem- 
perately distributed,  together  with  bread,  butter,  and 
cheese.  The  best  dinner  their  circumstances  could 
afford  was  served  up  at  midday.  At  sunset  the  colors 
were  lowered,  with  another  discharge  of  artillery.  The 
night  was  spent  in  dancing;  and,  though  there  was  a 
lack  of  female  partners  to  excite  their  gallantry,  the 
voyageurs  kept  up  the  ball  with  true  French  spirit, 
until  three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  So  passed  the  new 
year  festival  of  181 2  at  the  infant  colony  of  Astoria. 


CHAPTER    XIII 

We  have  followed  up  the  fortunes  of  the  maritime  part 
of  this  enterprise  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  have 
conducted  the  affairs  of  the  embryo  establishment  to 
the  opening  of  the  new  year ;  let  us  now  turn  back  to 
the  adventurous  band  to  whom  was  intrusted  the  land 


ASTORIA 


109 


)ria. 


part 
have 
It  to 
[k  to 
lland 


expedition,  and  who  were  to  make  their  way  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Cokimbia,  up  vast  rivers,  across  trackless 
plains,  and  over  the  rugged  barriers  of  the  Rocky- 
Mountains. 

The  conduct  of  this  expedition,  as  has  been  already 
mentioned,  was  assigned  to  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt, 
of  Trenton,  New  Jersey,  one  of  the  partners  of  the 
company,  who  was  ultimately  to  be  at  the  head  of  the 
establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  He  is 
represented  as  a  man  scrupulously  upright  and  faith- 
ful in  his  dealings,  amicable  in  his  disposition,  and  of 
most  accommodating  manner;  and  his  whole  conduct 
w^ill  be  found  in  unison  with  such  a  character.  He 
was  not  practically  experienced  in  the  Indian  trade; 
that  is  to  say,  he  had  never  made  any  expeditions  of 
traffic  into  the  heart  of  the  w^ilderness,  but  he  had  been 
engaged  in  commerce  at  St.  Louis,  then  a  frontier  set- 
tlement on  the  Mississippi,  wdiere  the  chief  branch  of 
his  business  had  consisted  in  furnishing  Indian  traders 
with  goods  and  equipments.  In  this  way,  he  had  ac- 
quired much  knowledge  of  the  trade  at  second  hand, 
and  of  the  various  tribes,  and  the  interior  country  over 
which  it  extended. 

Another  of  the  partners,  Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  was 
associated  with  Mr.  Hunt  in  the  expedition,  and  ex- 
celled on  those  points  in  which  the  other  was  deficient ; 
for  he  had  been  ten  years  in  the  interior,  in  the  service 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  valued  himself  on  his 
knowledge  of  "  woodcraft,"  and  the  strategy  of  In- 
dian trade  and  Indian  warfare.  He  had  a  frame  sea- 
soned to  toils  and  hardships ;  a  spirit  not  to  be  intimi- 
dated, and  was  reputed  to  be  a  "  remarkable  shot  " ; 
which  of  itself  was  sufficient  to  give  him  renown  upon 
the  frontier. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  coadjutor  repaired,  about  the  latter 
part  of  July,  18 10,  to  Montreal,  the  ancient  emporium 
of  the  fur  trade,  where  everything  requisite  for  the  ex- 


1I 


1 

4 


no 


ASTORIA 


pedition  could  be  procured.  One  of  the  first  objects 
was  to  recruit  a  complement  of  Canadian  voyageurs 
from  the  disbanded  herd  usually  to  be  found  loitering 
about  the  place.  A  degree  of  jockeyship,  however,  is 
required  for  this  service,  for  a  Canadian  voyageur  is 
as  full  of  latent  tricks  and  vice  as  a  horse;  and  when 
he  makes  the  greatest  external  promise,  is  prone  to 
prove  the  greatest  "  take  in."  Beside,  the  Northwest 
Company,  who  maintained  a  long  established  control 
at  Montreal,  and  knew  the  qualities  of  every  voyageur, 
secretly  interdicted  the  prime  hands  from  engaging  in 
this  new  service;  so  that,  although  liberal  terms  were 
offered,  few  presented  themselves  but  such  as  were 
not  worth  having. 

From  these  Mr.  Hunt  engaged  a  number  sufficient, 
as  he  supposed,  for  present  purposes ;  and,  having  laid 
in  a  supply  of  ammunition,  provisions,  and  Indian 
goods,  embarked  all  on  board  one  of  those  great  canoes 
at  that  time  universally  used  by  the  fur  traders  for 
navigating  the  intricate  and  often-obstructed  rivers. 
The  canoe  was  between  thirty  and  forty  feet  long,  and 
several  feet  in  width ;  constructed  of  birch  bark,  sewed 
with  fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce  tree,  and  daubed 
with  resin  of  the  pine,  instead  of  tar.  The  cargo  was 
made  up  in  packages,  weighing  from  ninety  to  on: 
hundred  pounds  each,  for  the  facility  of  loading  and 
unloading,  and  of  transportation  at  portages.  The 
canoe  itself,  though  capable  of  sustaining  a  freight  of 
upwards  of  four  tons,  could  readily  be  carried  on  men's 
shoulders.  Canoes  of  this  size  are  generally  managed 
by  eight  or  ten  men,  two  of  whom  are  picked  veterans, 
who  receive  double  wages,  and  are  stationed,  one  at 
the  bow  and  the  other  at  the  stern,  to  keep  a  look-out 
and  to  steer.  They  are  termed  the  foreman  and  the 
steersman.  The  rest,  who  ply  the  paddles,  are  called 
middle  men.  When  there  is  a  favorable  breeze,  the 
canoe  is  occasionally  navigated  with  a  sail. 


ASTORIA 


III 


anoes 
s  for 
ivers. 

and 
ewed 
iiiljed 

was 

0112 

and 

The 

it  of 

,nen's 

laged 


The  expedition  took  its  regular  departure,  as  usual, 
from  St.  Anne's,  near  the  extremity  of  the  island  of 
Montreal,  the  great  starting-place  of  the  traders  to  the 
interior.  Here  stood  the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  Anne, 
the  patroness  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs;  where  they 
made  co.nfession,  and  offered  up  their  vows,  previous 
to  departing  on  any  hazardous  expedition.  The  shrine 
of  the  saint  was  decorated  with  relics  and  votive  offer- 
ings hung  up  by  these  superstitious  beings,  either  to 
propitiate  her  favor,  or  in  gratitude  for  some  signal 
deliverance  in  the  wilderness.  It  was  the  custom,  too, 
of  these  devout  vagabonds,  after  leaving  the  chapel, 
to  have  a  grand  carouse,  in  honor  of  the  saint  and  for 
the  prosperity  of  the  voyage.  In  this  part  of  their 
devotions,  the  crew  of  Mr.  Hunt  proved  themselves 
by  no  means  deficient.  Indeed,  he  soon  discovered  that 
his  recruits,  enlisted  at  Montreal,  were  Tit  to  vie  with 
the  ragged  regiment  of  L^al staff.  Some  were  able- 
bodied,  but  inexpert;  others  were  expert,  but  lazy; 
while  a  third  class  were  expert  and  willing,  but  totally 
worn  out,  being  broken-down  veterans,  incapable  of 
toil. 

With  this  inefficient  crew  he  made  his  way  up  the 
Ottawa  River,  :  nd  by  the  ancient  route  of  the  fur 
traders,  along  a  succession  of  small  lakes  and  rivers, 
to  Michilimackinac.  Their  progress  was  slow  and 
tedious.  Mr.  Hunt  was  not  accustomed  to  the  manage- 
ment of  "  voyageurs,"  and  he  had  a  crew  admirably 
disposed  to  play  the  old  soldier,  and  balk  their  work; 
and  ever  ready  to  come  to  a  halt,  land,  make  a  fire, 
put  on  the  great  pot,  and  smoke,  and  gossip,  and  sing 
by  the  hour. 

It  was  not  until  the  22d  of  July  that  they  arrived  at 
Mackinaw,  situated  on  the  island  of  the  same  name, 
at  the  confluence  of  l?kes  Huron  and  ]Michigan.  This 
famous  old   French  trading  post  continued   to  be   a 

>r  a  multifarious  ai 


rallying  point 


motley  popuk 


112 


ASTORIA 


•i  ■ 


tion.  The  inhabitants  were  amphibious  in  their  habits, 
most  of  them  being,  or  having  been  voyageurs  or 
canoe  men.  It  was  the  great  place  of  arrival  and  de- 
parture of  the  southwest  fur  trade.  Here  the  Mack- 
inaw Company  had  established  its  principal  post,  from 
whence  it  communicated  with  the  interior  and  with 
Montreal.  Hence  its  various  traders  and  trappers  set 
out  for  their  respective  destinations  about  Lake  Su- 
perior and  its  tributary  waters,  or  for  the  Mississippi, 
the  Arkansas  the  Missouri,  and  the  other  regions  of 
the  west.  Here,  after  the  absence  of  a  year,  or  more, 
they  returned  with  their  peltries,  and  settled  their  ac- 
counts ;  the  furs  rendered  in  by  them  being  trans- 
mitted in  canoes  from  hence  to  Montreal.  Mackinaw 
was,  therefore,  for  a  great  part  of  the  year,  very 
scantily  peopled ;  but  at  certain  seasons  the  traders 
arrived  from  all  points,  with  their  crews  of  voyageurs, 
and  the  place  swarmed  like  a  hive. 

Mackinaw,  at  that  time,  was  a  mere  village,  stretch- 
ing along  a  small  bay,  with  a  fine  broad  beach  in  front 
of  its  principal  row  of  houses,  and  dominated  by  the 
old  fort,  which  crowned  an  impending  height.  The 
beach  was  a  kind  of  public  promenade,  where  were 
displayed  all  the  vagaries  of  a  seaport  on  the  arrival  of 
a  fleet  from  a  long  cruise.  Here  voyageurs  frolicked 
away  their  wages,  fiddling  and  dancing  in  the  booths 
and  cabins,  buying  all  kinds  of  knick-knacks,  dressing 
themselves  out  finely,  and  parading  up  and  down,  like 
arrant  braggarts  and  coxcombs.  Sometimes  they  met 
with  rival  coxcombs  in  the  young  Indians  from  the 
opposite  shore,  who  would  appear  on  the  beach  painted 
and  decorated  in  fantastic  style,  and  would  saunter  up 
and  down,  to  be  gazed  at  and  admired,  perfectly  satis- 
fied that  they  eclipsed  their  pale-faced  competitors. 

Now  and  then  a  chance  party  of  "  Northwesters  " 
appeared  at  Mackinaw  from  the  rendezvous  at  Fort 
William.     These  held  themselves  up  as  the  chivalry 


ASTORIA 


113 


The 


;r  up 
Isatis- 

[S. 

ters 

Fort 

Ivalry 


}f 


of  the  fur  trade.  They  were  men  of  iron ;  proof 
against  cold  weather,  hard  fare,  and  perils  of  all  kinds. 
Some  would  wear  the  Northwest  button,  and  a  formid- 
able dirk,  and  assume  something  of  a  military  air. 
They  generally  wore  feathers  in  their  hats,  and  affected 
the  ''  brave."  '*  Je  suis  un  homme  du  nord !  "  —  "I 
am  a  man  of  the  north,"  —  one  of  these  swelling  fel- 
lows would  exclaim,  sticking  his  arms  akimbo  and 
ruffling  by  the  Southwesters,  whom  he  regarded  with 
great  contempt,  as  men  softened  by  mild  climates  and 
tlie  luxurious  fare  of  bread  and  bacon,  and  whom  he 
stigmatized  with  the  inglorious  name  of  pork-eaters. 
The  superiority  assumed  by  these  vainglorious  swag- 
gerers was,  in  general,  tacitly  admitted.  Indeed, 
some  of  them  had  acquired  great  notoriety  for  deeds 
of  hardihood  and  courage;  for  the  fur  trade  had 
its  heroes,  whose  names  resounded  throughout  the 
wilderness. 

Such  was  Mackinaw  at  the  time  of  which  we  are 
treating.  It  now,  doubtless,  presents  a  totally  different 
aspect.  The  fur  companies  no  longer  assemble  there; 
the  navigation  of  the  lakes  is  carried  on  by  steamboats 
and  various  shipping,  and  the  race  of  traders,  and 
trappers,  and  vogageurs,  and  Indian  dandies,  have 
vapored  out  their  brief  hour  and  disappeared.  Such 
changes  does  the  lapse  of  a  handful  of  years  make  in 
this  ever-changing  country. 

At  this  place  Mr.  Hunt  remained  for  some  time,  to 
complete  his  assortment  of  Indian  goods,  and  to  in- 
crease his  number  of  voyageurs,  as  well  as  to  engage 
some  of  a  more  efficient  character  than  those  enlisted 
at  Montreal. 

And  now  commenced  another  game  of  jockeyship. 
There  were  able  and  efficient  men  in  abundance  at 
Mackinaw,  but  for  several  days  not  one  presented  him- 
self. If  offers  were  made  to  any,  they  were  listened  to 
with  a  shake  of  the  head.     Should  any  one  seem  in- 

8 


i 

I 

j; 

i 


f !  '}■ 


114 


ASTORIA 


II 


dined  to  enlist,  there  were  officious  idlers  and  busy- 
bodies,  of  that  class  who  are  ever  ready  to  dissuade 
others  from  any  enterprise  in  which  they  themselves 
have  no  concern.  These  would  pull  him  by  the  sleeve, 
take  him  on  one  side,  and  murmur  in  his  ear,  or  would 
suggest  difficulties  outright. 

It  was  objected  that  the  expedition  would  have  to 
navigate  unknown  rivers,  and  pass  through  howling 
wildernesses  infested  by  savage  tribes,  who  had  al- 
ready cut  off  the  unfortunate  voyageurs  that  had 
ventured  among  them;  that  it  was  to  climb  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  descend  into  desolate  and  famished 
regions,  where  the  traveller  was  often  obliged  to  sub- 
sist on  grasshoppers  and  crickets,  or  to  kill  his  own 
horse  for  food. 

At  length  ore  man  was  hardy  enough  to  engage, 
and  he  was  used  like  a  "  stool-pigeon,"  to  decoy  others ; 
but  several  days  elapsed  before  any  more  could  be  pre- 
vailed upon  to  join  him.  A  few  then  came  to  terms. 
It  was  desirable  to  engage  them  for  five  years,  but 
some  refused  to  engage  for  more  than  three.  Then 
they  must  have  part  of  their  pay  in  advance,  which 
was  readily  granted.  When  they  had  pocketed  the 
amount,  and  squandered  it  in  regales  or  in  outfits,  they 
began  to  talk  of  pecuniary  obligations  at  Mackinaw, 
which  must  be  discharged  before  they  v/ould  be  free  to 
depart ;  or  engagements  with  other  persons,  which  were 
only  to  be  cancelled  by  a  "  reasonable  consideration." 

It  was  in  vain  to  argue  or  remonstrate.  The  money 
advanced  had  already  been  sacked  and  spent,  and  must 
be  lost  and  the  recruits  left  behind,  unless  they  could 
be  freed  from  their  debts  and  engagements.  Accord- 
ingly, a  fine  was  paid  for  one ;  a  judgment  for  an- 
other ;  a  tavern  bill  for  the  third,  and  almost  all  had 
to  be  bought  off  from  some  prior  engagement,  either 
real  or  pretended. 

Mr.  Hunt  groaned  in  spirit  at  the  incessant  and  un- 


ASTORIA 


II 


were 
m. 

loney 
I  must 
Icoiild 
Icord- 
an- 
had 
jither 

un- 


reasonable demands  of  these  worthies  upon  his  purse : 
yet  with  all  this  outlay  of  funds,  the  number  recruited 
was  but  scanty,  and  many  of  the  most  desirable  still 
held  themselves  aloof,  and  were  not  to  be  caught  by  a 
golden  bait.  With  these  he  tried  another  temptation. 
Among  the  recruits  who  had  enlisted  he  distributed 
feathers  and  ostrich  plumes.  These  they  put  in  their 
hats,  and  thus  figured  about  Mackinaw,  assuming  airs 
of  vast  importance,  as  "  voyageurs  "  in  a  new  company, 
that  was  to  eclipse  the  Northwest.  The  effect  was  com- 
plete. A  French  Canadian  is  too  vain  and  mercurial 
a  being  to  withstand  the  finery  and  ostentation  of  the 
feather.  Numbers  immediately  pressed  into  the  ser- 
vice. One  must  have  an  ostrich  plume;  another,  a 
white  feather  with  a  red  end ;  a  third,  a  bunch  of 
cocks'  tails.  Thus  all  paraded  about,  in  vainglorious 
style,  more  delighted  with  the  feathers  in  their  hats 
than  with  the  money  in  their  pockets ;  and  considering 
themselves  fully  equal  to  the  boastful  "  men  of  the 
north." 

While  thus  recruiting  the  number  of  rank  and  file, 
Mr.  Hunt  was  joined  by  a  person  whom  he  had  in- 
vited, by  letter,  to  engage  as  a  partner  in  the  expedi- 
tion. This  was  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks,  a  young  man, 
a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had  served  under  the  North- 
west Company,  and  been  engaged  in  trading  expedi- 
tions upon  his  individual  account,  among  the  tribe?  of 
the  Missouri.  Mr.  Hunt  knew  him  personally,  and 
had  conceived  a  high  and  merited  opinion  of  his  judg- 
ment, enterprise,  and  integrity ;  he  was  rejoiced,  there- 
fore, when  the  latter  consented  to  accompany  him.  Mr. 
Crooks,  however,  drew  from  experience  a  picture  of 
the  dangers  to  which  they  would  be  subjected,  and 
urged  the  importance  of  going  with  a  considerable 
force.  In  ascending  the  upper  Missouri  they  would 
have  to  pass  through  the  country  of  the  Sioux  Indians, 
who  had  manifested  repeated  hostility  to  the  white 


i 


1 

;*     1 


^  i 


ii6 


ASTORIA 


traders,  and  rendered  their  expeditions  extremely 
perilous ;  firing-  upon  them  from  the  river  banks  as 
they  passed  beneath  in  their  boats,  and  attacking  them 
in  their  encampments.  Mr.  Crooks  himself,  when 
voyaging  in  company  with  anotlier  trader  of  the  name 
of  M'Lellan,  had  been  interrupted  by  these  marauders, 
and  had  considered  himself  fortunate  in  escaping  down 
the  river  without  loss  of  life  or  property,  but  w'ith  a 
total  abandonment  of  his  trading  voyage. 

Should  they  be  fortunate  enough  to  pass  through 
the  country  of  the  Sioux  without  molestation,  they 
would  have  another  tribe  still  more  savage  and  war- 
like beyond,  and  deadly  foes  of  the  white  men. 

These  were  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  who  ranged  over 
a  wide  extent  of  country  which  they  would  have  to 
traverse.  Under  all  these  circumstances  it  was  thought 
advisable  to  augment  the  party  considerably.  It  al- 
ready exceeded  the  number  of  thirty,  to  which  it  had 
originally  been  limited ;  but  it  was  determined,  on  ar- 
riving at  St.  Louis,  to  increase  it  to  the  number  of 
sixty. 

These  matters  being  arranged,  they  prepared  to  em- 
bark ;  but  the  embarkation  of  a  crew  of  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  on  a  distant  expedition,  is  not  so  easy  a  mat- 
ter as  might  be  imagined ;  especially  of  such  a  set  of 
vainglorious  fellows  with  money  in  both  pockets,  and 
cocks'  tails  in  their  hats.  Like  sailors,  the  Canadian 
voyageurs  generally  preface  a  long  cruise  with  a 
carouse.  They  have  their  cronies,  their  brothers,  their 
cousins,  their  wives,  their  sweethearts,  all  to  be  en- 
tertained at  their  expense.  They  feast,  they  fiddle, 
they  drink,  they  sing,  they  dance,  they  frolic  and  fight, 
until  they  are  all  as  mad  as  so  many  drunken  Indians. 
The  publicans  are  all  obedience  to  their  commands, 
never  hesitating  to  let  them  run  up  scores  without  limit, 
knowing  that,  when  their  own  money  is  expended,  the 
purses  of  their  employers  must  answer  for  the  bill,  or 


ASTORIA 


117 


em- 
voy- 
mat- 
et  of 

and 
idian 
th  a 
their 


the  voyage  must  be  delayed.  Neither  was  it  possible, 
at  that  time,  to  remedy  the  matter  at  Mackinaw.  In 
tliat  amphibious  community  there  was  ahvays  a  pro- 
pensity to  wrest  the  laws  in  favor  of  riotous  or  mutin- 
ous boatmen.  It  was  necessary,  also,  to  keep  the  re- 
cruits in  good-humor,  seeing  the  novelty  and  danger 
of  the  service  into  which  they  were  entering,  and  the 
ease  with  which  they  might  at  any  time  escape  it,  by 
jumping  into  a  canoe  and  going  clown  the  stream. 

Such  were  the  scenes  that  beset  Mr.  Hunt,  and  gave 
him  a  foretaste  of  the  difficulties  of  his  command.  The 
little  cabarets  and  sutlers'  shops  along  the  bay  re- 
sounded with  the  scraping  of  fiddles,  with  snatches  of 
old  French  songs,  wdth  Indian  w^hoops  and  yells,  while 
every  plumed  and  feathered  vagabond  had  his  troop 
of  loving  cousins  and  comrades  at  his  heels.  It  was 
with  the  utmost  difficulty  they  could  be  extricated  from 
the  clutches  of  the  publicans,  and  the  embraces  of  their 
pot  companions,  who  followed  them  to  the  water's 
edge  with  many  a  hug,  a  kiss  on  each  check,  and  a 
maudlin  benediction  in  Canadian  French. 

It  was  about  the  12th  of  August  that  they  left 
IMackinaw,  and  pursued  the  usual  route  by  Green  Bay, 
Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers,  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  and 
thence  down  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Louis,^ii£xe-they 
landed  on  the  third  of  September. 

/' 


IKC 


^,.,^^J^l^V,,lj 


\ 


n.''  /■ 


<7.  r-i-^^   i 


CHAPTER   XIV, 


;^r-- 


St.  Louis,  which  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  was,  at  that  time,  a  frontier  settlement,  and 
the  last  fitting-out  place  for  the  Indian  trade  of  the 
Southwest.  It  possessed  a  motley  population,  com- 
posed of  the  Creole  descendants  of  the  original  French 


ii8 


ASTORIA 


colonists;  the  keen  traders  from  tlie  Atlantic  States; 
the  backwoodsmen  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee ;  the 
Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  prairies;  together  with 
a  singular  ac[uatic  race  that  had  grown  up  from  the 
navigation  of  the  rivers — ''the  boatmen  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi"; who  possessed  habits,  manners,  and  al- 
most a  language,  peculiarly  their  own,  and  strongly 
technical.  They,  at  that  time,  were  extremely  numer- 
ous, and  conducted  the  chief  navigation  and  commerce 
of  the  Ohio  and  the  Alississippi,  as  the  voyageurs  did 
of  the  Canadian  waters;  but,  like  them,  their  conse- 
quence and  characteristics  are  rapidly  vanishing  before 
the  all  pervading  intrusion  of  steamboats. 

The  old  French  houses  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade 
had  gathered  round  them  a  train  of  dependents, 
mongrel  Indians,  and  mongrel  Frenchmen,  who  had 
intermarried  with  Indians.  These  they  employed  in 
their  various  expeditions  by  land  and  water.  Vari- 
ous individuals  of  other  countries  had,  of  late  years, 
pushed  the  trade  further  into  the  interior,  to  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  had  swelled  the  number  of 
these  hangers-on.  Several  of  these  traders  had,  two 
or  three  years  previously,  formed  themselves  into  a 
company,  composed  of  twelve  partners,  with  a  capital 
of  about  forty  thousand  dollars,  called  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company;  the  object  of  which  was,  to  establish 
posts  along  the  upper  part  of  that  river,  and  monopo- 
lize the  trade.  The  leading  partner  of  this  company 
was  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  a  Spaniard  by  birth,  and  a  man 
of  bold  and  enterprising  character,  who  had  ascended 
the  Missouri  almost  to  its  source,  and  made  himself 
well  acquainted  and  popular  with  several  of  its  tribes. 
By  his  exertions,  trading  posts  had  been  established, 
in  1808,  in  the  Sioux  country,  and  among  the  Aricara 
and  Mandan  tribes;  and  a  principal  one,  under  Mr. 
Henry,  one  of  the  partners,  at  the  forks  of  the  Mis- 
souri.    This  company  had  in  its  employ  about  ^wo 


ASTORIA 


119 


hundred  and  fifty  men.  partly  American  lumters,  and 
partly  Creoles  and  Canadian  voyageurs. 

All  these  circumstances  combined  to  produce  a  pop- 
ulation at  St.  Louis  even  still  more  motley  than  that 
at  Ivlackinaw.  Here  were  to  be  seen,  about  the  river 
banks,  the  hectoring,  extravagant,  bragging  boatmen 
of  the  Mississippi,  with  the  gay,  grimacing,  singing, 
good-humored  Canadian  voyageurs.  Vagrant  Indians, 
of  various  tribes,  loitered  about  the  streets.  Now  and 
then  a  stark  Kentucky  hunter,  in  leathern  hunting- 
dress,  with  rifle  on  shoulder  and  knife  in  l)elt,  strode 
along.  Here  and  there  w^ere  new  brick  houses  and 
shops,  just  set  up  by  bustling,  driving,  and  eager  men 
of  traffic  from  the  Atlantic  States;  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  old  French  mansions,  with  open  casements, 
still  retained  the  easy,  indolent  air  of  the  original  colo- 
nists; and  now  and  then  the  scraping  of  a  fiddle,  a 
strain  of  an  ancient  French  song,  or  the  sound  of  bil- 
liard balls,  showed  that  the  happy  Gallic  turn  for 
gayety  and  amusement  still  lingered  about  the  place. 

Such  was  St.  Louis  at  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival 
there,  and  the  appearance  of  a  new  fur  company,  with 
ample  funds  at  its  command,  produced  a  strong  sensa- 
tion among  the  Indian  traders  of  the  place,  and 
awakened  keen  jealousy  and  opposition  on  the  part 
of  the  Missouri  Company.  Mr.  Hunt  proceeded  to 
strengthen  himself  against  all  competition.  For  this 
purpose,  he  secured  to  the  interests  of  the  association 
another  of  those  enterprising  men,  who  had  been  en- 
gaged in  individual  traffic  w^ith  the  tribes  of  the  Mis- 
souri. This  was  a  Mr.  Joseph  Miller,  a  gentleman 
well  educated  and  well  informed,  and  of  a  respectable 
family  of  Baltimore.  He  had  been  an  officer  in  the 
army  of  the  United  States,  but  had  resigned  in  disgust, 
on  being  refused  a  furlough,  and  had  taken  to  trap- 
ping beaver  and  trading  among  the  Indians.  He  was 
easily  induced  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  join  as  a  partner,  and 


I 


v 


.4- 

:.4 


120 


ASTORIA 


<i    I 


was  considered  by  him,  on  account  of  his  echication 
and  acfjuirements,  and  his  experience  in  Indian  trade, 
a  vakiable  adch'tion  to  the  company. 

Several  adcHtional  men  were  hkewise  enhsted  at 
St.  Louis,  some  as  boatmen,  and  others  as  hunters. 
These  last  were  engaged,  not  merely  to  kill  game  for 
provisions,  but  also,  and  indeed  chietly,  to  trap  beaver 
and  other  animals  of  rich  furs,  valuable  in  the  trade. 
They  enlisted  on  different  terms.  Some  were  to  have 
a  fixed  salary  of  three  hundred  dollars ;  others  were 
to  be  fitted  out  and  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
company,  and  were  to  hunt  and  trap  on  shares. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  met  with  much  opposition  on  the  part 
of  rival  traders,  especially  the  Missouri  h\u-  Com- 
pany, it  took  him  some  weeks  to  complete  his  prepara- 
tions. The  delays  which  he  had  previously  experienced 
at  Montreal,  Mackinaw,  and  on  the  way,  added  to 
those  at  St.  Louis,  had  thrown  him  much  behind  his 
original  calculations,  so  that  it  would  be  impossible  to 
effect  his  voyage  up  the  Missouri  in  the  present  year. 
This  river,  flowing  from  high  and  cold  latitudes,  and 
through  wide  and  open  plains,  exposed  to  chilling 
blasts,  freezes  early.  The  winter  may  be  dated  from 
the  first  of  November;  there  was  every  prospect, 
therefore,  that  it  would  be  closed  with  ice  long  before 
Mr.  Hunt  could  reach  its  upper  waters.  To  avoid, 
however,  the  expense  of  wintering  at  St.  Louis,  he  de- 
termined to  push  up  the  river  as  far  as  possible,  to 
some  point  above  the  settlements,  where  game  was 
plenty,  and  where  his  whole  party  could  be  subsisted 
by  hunting,  until  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  in  the 
spring  should  permit  tliem  to  resume  their  voyage. 

Accordingly  on  the  twenty-first  of  October  he  took 
his  departure  from  St.  Louis.  His  party  was  dis- 
tributed in  three  boats.  One  was  the  barge  which  he 
had  brought  from  Mackinaw ;  another  was  of  a  larger 
size,   such  as   was   formerly  used   in   navigating   the 


ASTOklA 


iJi 


^^oha\\k  I\ivcr,  and  known  by  trc  generic  name  of  the 
Schenectady  ])arj4e;  the  other  was  a  large  keel  boat,  at 
that  time  the  grand  conveyance  on  the  Mississipi)!, 

In  this  way  they  set  out  ivinw  St.  Louis,  in  buoyant 
spirits,  and  soon  arri\ed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouii. 
'Jills  vast  river,  three  thousand  miles  in  length,  and 
which,  with  its  tributary  streams,  drains  such  an  im- 
mense extent  of  country,  was  as  yet  but  casually  and 
imperfectly  navigated  by  the  adventurous  bark  of  the 
fur  trader.  A  steamboat  had  never  yet  stemmed  its 
turbulent  current.  Sails  were  but  of  casual  assistance, 
for  it  recjuired  a  strong  wind  to  concpier  the  force  of 
the  stream.  The  main  dependence  was  on  bodily 
strength  and  manual  dexterity.  The  boats,  in  general, 
had  to  be  propelled  by  oars  and  setting  poles,  or  drawn 
by  the  hand  and  by  grappling  hooks  from  one  root  or 
overhanging  tree  to  another;  or  towed  by  the  long 
cordeMe,  or  towing  line,  where  the  shores  were  suf- 
ficiently clear  of  woods  and  thickets  to  permit  the  men 
to  pass  along  the  banks. 

During  this  slow  and  tedious  progress  the  boat  w^ould 
be  exposed  to  frecjuent  danger  from  floating  trees  and 
great  masses  of  driftwood,  or  to  be  impaled  upon 
snags  and  sawyers ;  that  is  to  say,  sunken  trees,  pre- 
senting a  jagged  or  pointed  end  above  the  surface  of 
the  water.  As  the  channel  of  the  river  frequently 
shifted  from  side  to  side  according  to  the  bends  and 
sand-banks,  the  boat  had,  in  the  same  \vay,  to  advance 
in  a  zigzag  course.  Often  a  part  of  the  crew  Avould 
have  to  leap  into  the  water  at  the  shallows,  and  wade 
along  with  the  towing  line,  while  their  comrades  on 
board  toilfnlly  assisted  with  oar  and  setting  pole. 
Sometimes  the  boat  would  seem  to  be  retained  motion- 
less, as  if  spell-bound,  opposite  some  point  round  which 
the  current  set  with  violence,  and  wdiere  the  utmost 
labor  scarce  efifected  any  visible  progress. 

On  these  occasions  it  was  that  the  merits  of  the 


t 


122 


ASTORIA 


II  i- 


h  ■ 

1 1 

f 

V 

5 

hi 

li'fl  - 

rh 

f  I  ■■ 

1 '  ■' 

J 

! 

:  II 

i 

1 

,3 

1   I 

I 


Canadian  voyageiirs  came  into  full  action.  Patient 
of  toil,  not  to  be  disheartened  by  impediments  and  dis- 
appointments, fertile  in  expedients,  and  versed  in  every 
mode  of  humoring  and  conquering  the  wayward  cur- 
rent, they  would  ply  every  exertion,  sometimes  in  the 
boat,  sometimes  on  shore,  sometimes  in  the  water,  how- 
ever cold;  always  alert,  always  in  good  humor;  and, 
should  they  at  any  time  flag  or  grow  weary,  one  of 
their  popular  boat-songs,  chanted  by  a  veteran  oars- 
man, and  responded  to  in  chorus,  acted  as  a  never- 
failing  restorative. 

By  such  assiduous  and  persevering  labor  they  made 
their  way  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the 
Missouri,  by  the  i6th  of  November,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Nodowa.  As  this  was  a  good  hunting  country, 
and  as  the  season  was  rapidly  advancing,  they  de- 
termined to  establish  their  winter  quarters  at  this  place ; 
and,  in  fact,  two  days  after  they  had  come  to  a  halt, 
the  river  closed  just  above  their  encampment. 

The  party  had  not  been  long  at  this  place  when  they 
were  joined  by  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan,  another  trader 
of  the  Missouri ;  the  same  who  had  been  associated 
with  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  unfortunate  expedition  in 
which  they  had  been  intercepted  by  the  Sioux  Indians, 
and  obliged  to  make  a  vapid  retreat  down  the  river. 

M'Lellan  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  had  been  a 
partisan  under  General  Wayne,  in  his  Indian  wars, 
where  he  had  distinguished  himself  by  his  fiery  spirit 
and  reckless  daring,  and  marvellous  stories  were  told 
of  his  exploits.  His  appearance  answered  to  his  char- 
acter. His  frame  was  meagre,  but  muscular;  show- 
ing strength,  activity,  and  iron  firmness.  His  eyes  were 
dark,  deep-set,  and  piercing.  He  was  restless,  fearless, 
but  of  impetuous  and  sometimes  ungovernable  temper. 
He  had  been  invited  by  ^Ir.  Hunt  to  enroll  himself  as 
a  partner,  and  gladly  consented  ;  being  pleased  with  the 
thoughts  of  passing  with  a  powerful   force  through 


p 


ASTORIA 


123 


in  a 
^ars, 
Ipirit 
told 
Ihar- 

lOW- 

Ivere 

lless, 
]per. 
If  as 
the 
liigh 


the  country  of  the  Sioux,  and  perhaps  havinj^  an  op- 
portunity of  revenging  himself  upon  that  lawless  tribe 
for  their  past  offences. 

Another  recruit  that  joined  the  camp  at  Nodowa 
deserves  equal  mention.  This  was  John  Day,  a  hunter 
from  the  back-woods  of  Virginia,  who  had  been  several 
years  on  the  Missouri  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and 
of  otlier  traders.  He  was  about  forty  years  of  age, 
six  feet  two  inches  high,  straight  as  an  Indian ;  with 
an  elastic  step  as  if  he  trod  on  springs,  and  a  hand- 
some, open,  manly  countenance.  It  was  his  boast,  that 
in  his  younger  days,  nothing  could  hurt  or  daunt  him ; 
but  he  had  "  lived  too  fast,"  and  injured  his  constitu- 
tion by  his  excesses.  Still  he  was  strong  of  hand,  bold 
of  heart,  a  prime  woodman,  and  an  almost  unerring 
shot.  He  had  the  frank  spirit  of  a  Virginian,  and  the 
rough  heroism  of  a  pioneer  of  the  west. 

The  party  were  now  brought  to  a  halt  for  several 
months.  They  were  in  a  country  abounding  with  deer 
and  wild  turkeys,  so  that  there  was  no  stint  of  provi- 
sions, and  every  one  appeared  cheerful  and  contented. 
Mr.  Hunt  determined  to  avail  himself  of  this  interval 
to  return  to  St.  Louis  and  obtain  a  reinforcement.  He 
wished  to  procure  an  interpreter,  acquainted  with  the 
language  of  the  Sioux,  as,  from  all  accounts,  he  appre- 
hended difficulties  in  passing  through  the  country  of 
that  nation.  He  felt  the  necessity,  also,  of  having  a 
greater  number  of  hunters,  not  merely  to  keep  up  a 
supply  of  provisions  throughout  their  long  and  ardu- 
ous expedition,  but  also  as  a  protection  and  defence, 
in  case  of  Indian  hostilities.  For  such  service  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  were  little  to  be  depended  upon, 
fighting  not  being  a  part  of  their  profession.  The 
proper  kind  of  men  were  American  hunters,  experi- 
enced in  savage  life  and  savage  warfare,  and  possessed 
of  the  true  game  spirit  of  the  west. 

Leaving,  therefore,  the  encampment  in  charge  of  the 


^ 


1 1'  ■ 


124 


ASTORIA 


other  partners,  Mr.  Hunt  set  off  on  foot  on  the  first 
of  January  (1810),  for  St.  Louis.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  eight  men  as  far  as  Fort  Osage,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  below  Nodowa.  Here  he  pro- 
cured a  couple  of  horses,  and  proceeded  on  the  re- 
mainder of  his  journey  with  two  men,  sending  the 
other  six  back  to  the  encampment.  He  arrived  at  St. 
Louis  on  the  20th  of  January. 


^1       ! 

4 


CHAPTER    XV 

On  this  his  second  visit  to  St.  Louis,  Mr.  Hunt  was 
again  impeded  in  his  plans  by  the  opposition  of  the  Mis- 
souri Fur  Company.  The  affairs  of  that  company 
were,  at  this  time,  in  a  very  dubious  state.  During  the 
preceding  year,  their  principal  establishment  at  the 
forks  of  the  Missouri  had  been  so  much  harassed  by  the 
Blackfeet  Indians,  that  its  commander,  Mr.  Henry, 
one  of  the  partners,  had  been  compelled  to  abandon  the 
post  and  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  fixing  himself  upon  one  of  the  upper  branches 
of  the  Columbia.  What  had  become  of  him  and  his 
party  was  unknown.  The  most  intense  anxiety  was 
felt  concerning  them,  and  apprehensions  that  they 
might  have  been  cut  off  by  the  savages.  At  the  time  of 
Mr.  Hunt's  arrival  at  St.  Louis,  the  Missouri  Com- 
pany were  fitting  out  an  expedition  to  go  in  quest  of 
Mr.  Henry.  It  was  to  be  conducted  by  Mr.  Manuel 
Lisa,  the  enterprising  partner  already  mentioned. 

There  being  thus  two  expeditions  on  foot  at  the 
same  moment,  an  unusual  demand  was  occasioned  for 
hunters  and  voyageurs,  who  accordingly  profited  by 
the  circumstance,  and  stipulated  for  high  terms.  Mr. 
Hunt  found  a  keen  and  subtle  competitor  in  Lisa,  and 
was  obliged  to  secure  his  recruits  liy  liberal  advances 
of  pay,  and  by  other  pecuniary  indulgences. 


ASTORIA 


125 


the 
I  for 
1  by 

Mr. 

and 
nces 


The  greatest  difficuUy  was  to  procure  the  Sioux  in- 
terpreter. There  was  but  one  man  to  be  met  with  at 
St.  Louis  who  was  fitted  for  the  purpose,  but  to  se- 
cure him  would  require  much  management.  Tlie  in- 
dividual in  question  was  a  half-breed,  named  Pierre 
Dorion;  and,  as  he  figures  hereafter  in  this  narrative, 
and  is,  withal,  a  striking  specimen  of  the  hybrid  race 
on  the  frontier,  we  shall  give  a  few  particulars  concern- 
ing him.  Pierre  was  the  son  of  Doricn,  tlie  French 
interpreter,  who  accompanied  Messrs.  Lewis  and 
Clarke  in  their  famous  exploring  expedition  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Old  Dorion  was  one  of  those 
French  Creoles,  descendants  of  the  ancient  Canadian 
stock,  who  abound  on  the  western  frontier,  and  amal- 
gamate or  cohabit  with  the  savages.  He  had  sojourned 
among  various  tribes,  and  perhaps  left  progeny  among 
them  all ;  but  his  regular,  or  habitual  wife,  was  a  Sioux 
squaw.  By  her  he  had  a  hopeful  brood  of  half-breed 
sons,  of  whom  Pierre  was  one.  The  domestic  affairs 
>  "  'Id  Dorion  were  conducted  on  the  true  Indian  plan, 
i  ,i-  ler  and  sons  would  occasionally  get  drunk  to- 
gether, and  then  the  cabin  w^as  a  scene  of  ruffian  brawl 
and  fighting,  in  the  course  of  which  the  old  French- 
man was  apt  to  get  soundly  belabored  by  his  mongrel 
offspring.  In  a  furious  scuffle  of  the  kind,  one  of  the 
sons  got  the  old  man  upon  the  ground,  and  was  upon 
the  point  of  scalping  him.  "Hold!  my  son,"  cried 
the  old  fellow,  in  imploring  accents,  "  you  are  too 
brave,  too  honorable  to  scalp  your  father!  "  This  last 
appeal  touched  the  French  side  of  the  half-breed's 
heart,  so  he  suffered  the  old  man  to  wear  his  scalp 
unharmed. 

Of  this  hopeful  stock  was  Pierre  Dorion,  the  man 
whom  it  was  now  the  desire  of  Mr.  Hunt  to  engage  as 
an  interpreter.  Lie  had  been  employed  in  that  capa- 
city by  the  Missouri  Fur  Company  during  the  preced- 
ing year,  and  conducted  their  traders  in  safety  through 


4 


Hi; 


t. 


I 


1 


r 


126 


ASTORIA 


the  different  tribes  of  the  Sioux.  He  had  proved  him- 
self faithful  and  serviceable  while  sober;  but  the  love 
of  liquor,  in  whijch  he  had  been  nurtured  and  brought 
up,  would  occasionally  break  out,  and  with  it  the  savage 
side  of  his  character. 

It  was  his  love  of  liquor  which  had  embroiled  him 
with  the  Missouri  Company.  While  in  their  service 
at  Fort  Mandan,  on  the  frontier,  he  had  been  seized 
with  a  whiskey  mania ;  and,  as  the  beverage  was  only 
to  be  procured  at  the  company's  store,  it  had  been 
charged  in  his  account  at  the  rate  of  ten  dollars  a 
ciuart.  This  item  had  ever  remained  unsettled,  and  a 
matter  of  furious  dispute,  the  mere  mention  of  which 
was  sufficient  to  put  him  in  a  passion. 

The  moment  it  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Lisa  that 
Pierre  Dorion  was  in  treaty  with  the  new  and  rival 
association,  he  endeavored,  by  threats  as  well  as  prom- 
ises, to  prevent  his  engaging  in  their  service.  His 
promises  might,  perhaps,  have  prevailed ;  but  his 
threats,  which  related  to  the  whiskey  debt,  only  served 
to  drive  Pierre  into  the  opposite  ranks.  Still  he  took 
advantage  of  this  competition  for  his  services  to  stand 
out  with  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  most  advantageous  terms, 
and,  after  a  negotiation  of  nearly  two  weeks,  capitu- 
lated to  serve  in  the  expedition,  as  hunter  and  inter- 
preter, at  the  rate  of  three  hundred  dollars  a  year,  two 
hundred  of  which  were  to  be  paid  in  advance. 

When  Mr.  Hunt  had  got  everything  ready  for  leav- 
ing St.  Louis,  new  difficulties  arose.  Five  of  the 
American  hunters  from  the  encampment  at  Nodowa, 
suddenly  made  their  appearance.  They  alleged  that 
they  had  been  ill  treated  l3y  the  partners  at  the  encamp- 
ment, and  had  come  off  clandestinely,  in  consequence  of 
a  dispute.  It  was  useless  at  the  present  moment,  and 
under  present  circumstances,  to  attempt  any  compul- 
sory measures  with  these  deserters.  Two  of  them  Mr. 
Hunt  prevailed  upon,  by  mild  means,  to  return  with 


ASTORIA 


127 


leav- 

the 
Jowa, 

that 
lamp- 
Ice  of 

and 
ipul- 

Mr. 
Iwith 


him.  The  rest  refused;  nay,  what  was  worse,  they 
spread  such  reports  of  the  hardships  and  dangers  to 
be  apprehended  in  the  course  of  the  expedition,  that 
they  struck  a  panic  into  those  hunters  who  had  recently 
engaged  at  St.  Louis,  and,  when  the  hour  of  depar- 
ture arrived,  all  but  one  refused  to  eml)ark.  It  was  in 
vain  to  plead  or  remonstrate;  they  shouldered  their 
rifles  and  turned  their  backs  upon  the  expedition,  and 
Mr.  Hunt  was  fain  to  put  off  from  shore  with  the  single 
hunter  and  a  number  of  voyageurs  whom  he  had  en- 
gaged. Even  Pierre  Dorion,  at  the  last  moment,  re- 
fused to  enter  the  boat  until  Mr.  Hunt  consented  to 
take  his  squaw  and  two  children  on  board  also.  But 
the  tissue  of  perplexities,  on  account  of  this  worthy  in- 
dividual, did  not  end  here. 

Among  the  various  persons  who  were  about  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  Missouri  with  Mr.  Hunt,  were  two  scien- 
tific gentlemen :  one  Mr.  John  Brad1)ury,  a  man  of 
mature  age,  but  great  enterprise  and  personal  activity, 
who  had  been  sent  out  by  the  LinucTan  Society  of 
Liverpool,  to  make  a  collection  of  American  plants ; 
the  other,  a  Mr.  Nuttall,  likewise  an  Englishman, 
younger  in  years,  who  has  since  made  himself  known 
as  the  author  of  "  Travels  in  Arkansas,"  and  a  work  on 
the  "  Genera  of  American  Plants."  Mr.  Hunt  had 
offered  them  the  protection  and  facilities  of  his  party, 
in  their  scientific  researches  up  the  IMissouri.  As  they 
were  not  ready  to  depart  at  the  moment  of  embar- 
kation, they  put  their  trunks  on  board  of  the  boat, 
but  remained  at  St.  Louis  until  the  next  day.  for  the 
arrival  of  the  post,  intending  to  join  the  expedition 
at  St.  Charles,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri. 

The  same  evening,  however,  they  learned  that  a  writ 
had  been  issued  against  Pierre  Dorion  for  his  whiskey 
debt,  by  Mr.  Lisa,  as  agent  of  the  )iIissouri  Companv. 
and  that  it  was  the  intention  to  entrap  the  mongrel 


'5 


\i  i 


I: 

i 

i  ' 

I: 


I: 


n 


« 


128 


ASTORIA 


linguist  on  his  arrival  at  St.  Charles.  Upon  hearing 
this,  Mr.  Bradbury  and  JMr.  Nuttall  set  off  a  little  af- 
ter midnight,  by  land,  got  ahead  of  the  boat  as  it  was 
ascending  the  Missouri,  before  its  arrival  at  St. 
Charles,  and  gave  Pierre  Dorion  warning  of  the  legal 
toil  prepared  to  ensnare  him.  The  knowing  Pierre  im- 
mediately landed  and  took  to  the  woods,  followed  by 
his  squaw  laden  with  their  papooses,  and  a  large  bundle 
containing  their  most  precious  effects,  promising  to  re- 
join the  party  some  distance  above  St.  Charles.  There 
seemed  little  dependence  to  be  placed  upon  the  promises 
of  a  loose  adventurer  of  the  kind,  who  was  at  the  very 
time  playing  an  evasive  game  with  his  former  em- 
ployers; who  had  already  received  two  thirds*  of  his 
year's  pay,  and  his  rille  on  his  shoulder,  his  family  and 
worldly  fortune  at  his  heels,  and  the  wild  woods  before 
him.  There  was  no  alternative,  however,  and  it  was 
hoped  his  pique  against  his  old  employers  would  render 
him  faithful  to  his  new  ones. 

The  party  reached  St.  Charles  in  the  afternoon,  but 
the  harpies  of  the  law  looked  in  vain  for  their  ex- 
pected prey.  The  boats  resumed  their  course  on  the 
following  morning,  and  had  not  proceeded  far  w4ien 
Pierre  Dorion  made  his  appearance  on  the  shore.  He 
was  gladly  taken  on  board,  but  he  came  without  his 
squaw.  They  had  quarrelled  in  the  night ;  Pierre  had 
administered  the  Indian  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  where- 
upon she  had  taken  to  the  woods,  with  their  children 
and  all  their  worldly  goods.  Pierre  evidently  was 
deeply  grieved  and  disconcerted  at  the  loss  of  his  wnfe 
and  his  knapsack,  whereupon  Mr.  Hunt  dispatched  one 
of  the  Canadian  voyageurs  in  search  of  the  fugitive ; 
and  the  whole  party,  after  proceeding  a  few  miles  fur- 
ther encamped  on  an  island  to  wait  his  return.  The 
Canadian  rejoined  the  party,  but  without  the  squaw ; 
and  Pierre  Dorion  passed  a  solitary  and  anxious  night, 
bitterly  regretting  his  indiscretion  in  having  exercised 


ASTORIA 


T29 


Ills  conjugal  antliority  so  near  home.  Before  day- 
break, however,  a  well-kncnvn  voice  reached  his  ears 
from  the  opposite  shore.  It  was  his  repentant  spouse, 
who  had  been  wandering  the  wotxls  all  night  in  quest 
of  the  party,  and  h.ad  at  length  descried  it  by  its  fires. 
A  boat  was  dispatched  for  her,  the  interesting  family 
was  once  more  united,  and  Mr.  Hunt  now  ilattered 
himself  that  his  perplexities  with  Pierre  Dorion  were 
at  an  end. 

Bad  weather,  very  heavy  rains,  and  an  unusually 
early  rise  in  the  Mis'^ouri,  rendered  the  ascent  of  the 
river  toilsome,  slo\  .  and  dangerous.  The  rise  of  the 
Missouri  does  not  generally  take  place  until  the  month 
of  May  or  June ;  the  present  swelling  of  the  river  must 
have  been  caused  by  a  freshet  in  some  of  its  more 
southern  branches.  It  could  not  have  been  the  great 
annual  flood,  as  the  higher  branches  must  still  have 
been  ice-bound. 

And  here  we  cannot  but  pause,  to  notice  the  admi- 
rable arrangement  of  nature,  by  which  the  annual  swell- 
ings of  the  various  great  rivers  which  empty  them- 
selves into  the  Mississippi,  have  been  made  to  precede 
each  other  at  considerable  intervals.  Thus,  the  flood 
of  the  Red  River  precedes  that  of  the  Arkansas  by  a 
month.  The  Arkansas,  also,  rising  in  a  much  more 
southern  latitude  than  the  Missouri,  takes  the  lead  of 
it  in  its  annual  excess,  and  its  superabundant  waters 
are  disgorged  and  disposed  of  long  before  the  breaking 
up  of  Liie  icy  barriers  of  the  north ;  otherwise,  did  all 
these  mighty  streams  rise  simultaneously,  and  dis- 
charge their  vernal  floods  into  the  Mississippi,  an  in- 
undation would  be  the  consequence,  that  would  sub- 
merge and  devastate  all  the  lower  country. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day,  January  17th,  the 
boats  touched  at  Charette,  one  of  the  old  villages 
founded  by  the  original  French  colonists.  Here  they 
met  with   Daniel   Boone,  the  renowned  patriarch   of 

9 


30 


ASTOHTA 


i 


f  ; 


Kentucky,  who  had  kept  in  tl;e  advance  of  civihzation, 
and  on  tlie  l)()rdcrs  of  the  wilderness,  still  leading  a 
hunter's  life,  tiiouj^h  now  in  his  ei.i;hty-(ifth  year.  He 
had  hut  recently  returned  from  a  hunting  and  trapping 
expedition,  and  had  hrought  nearly  sixty  heaver  skins 
as  trophies  oi  his  skill.  Tlie  old  man  was  still  erect  in 
form,  strong  in  limh.  and  unllinching  in  spirit,  and  as 
he  stood  on  the  river  hank,  watching  the  departure  of 
an  expedition  destined  to  traverse  the  wilderness  to 
the  very  shores  of  the  PaciHc,  very  prohahly  felt  a 
throh  of  his  old  jjioneer  si)irit,  impelling  him  to  shoul- 
der his  rille  and  join  the  adventurous  hand.  Boone 
flourished  several  years  after  this  meeting,  in  a  vigor- 
ous old  age,  the  Xestor  of  hunters  and  backwoodsmen; 
and  died,  full  of  sylvan  honor  and  renown,  in  1818,  in 
his  ninety-second  year. 

The  next  morning  early,  as  the  party  were  yet  en- 
camped at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream,  they  were 
visited  by  another  of  these  heroes  of  the  wilderness,  one 
John  Colter,  who  had  accompanied  Lewis  and  Clarke 
in  their  memorable  expedition.  He  had  recently  made 
one  of  those  vast  internal  voyages  so  characteristic  of 
this  fearless  class  of  men,  and  of  the  immense  regions 
over  which  they  hold  their  lonely  wanderings ;  having 
come  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  to  St. 
Louis  in  a  small  canoe.  This  distance  of  three  thou- 
sand miles  he  had  accomplished  in  thirty  days.  Colter 
kejit  with  the  party  all  the  morning.  He  had  many  par- 
ticulars to  give  them  concerning  the  Rlackfeet  Indians, 
a  restless  and  predatory  tribe,  who  had  conceived  an 
implacable  hostility  to  the  white  men,  in  consequence 
of  one  of  their  warriors  having  been  killed  by  Captain 
Lewis,  while  attempting  to  steal  horses.  Through  the 
country  infested  by  these  savages  the  expedition  would 
have  to  proceed,  and  Colter  was  urgent  in  reiterating 
the  precautions  that  ought  to  be  observed  respecting 
them.     He  had  himself  experienced   their  vindictive 


ASTORIA 


131 


cruelty,  and  his  story  deserves  particular  citation,  as 
showing-  the  hairbreadtli  adventures  to  which  these 
solitary  rovers  of  the  wilderness  are  exposed. 

Colter,  with  the  hardihood  of  a  regular  trapper,  had 
cast  himself  loose  from  tiie  ])arty  of  Lewis  and  Chirke 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  had  remained 
to  trap  beaver  alone  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri. Here  he  fell  in  with  another  lonely  trapper,  like 
himself,  named  I'otts,  and  they  agreed  to  keep  together. 
They  were  in  the  very  region  of  the  terrible  Black- 
feet,  at  that  time  thirsting  to  revenge  the  death  of  their 
companion,  and  knew  that  they  had  to  expect  no 
mercy  at  their  hands.  They  were  obliged  to  keep  con- 
cealed all  day  in  the  woody  margins  of  the  rivers,  set- 
ting their  traps  after  nightfall  and  taking  them  up  be- 
fore daybreak.  It  was  running  a  fearful  risk  for  the 
sake  of  a  few  beaver  skins;  but  such  is  the  life  of  the 
tra])]jer. 

They  were  on  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  called  Jef- 
ferson's Fork,  and  had  set  their  traps  at  night, 
about  six  miles  up  a  small  river  that  emptied  into  the 
fork.  Early  in  the  morning  they  ascended  the  river 
in  a  canoe,  to  examine  the  traps.  The  banks  on  each 
side  were  high  and  perpendicular,  and  cast  a  shade 
over  the  stream.  As  they  were  softly  paddling  along, 
they  heard  the  trampling  of  many  feet  upon  the  banks. 
Colter  immediately  gave  the  alarm  of  *'  Indians!  "  and 
was  for  instant  retreat.  Potts  scoffed  at  him  for  being 
frightened  by  the  trampling  of  a  herd  of  buffaloes. 
Colter  checked  his  uneasiness  and  paddled  forward. 
They  had  not  gone  much  further  when  frightful 
whoops  and  yells  burst  forth  from  each  side  of  the 
river,  and  several  hundred  Indians  appeared  on  either 
bank.  Signs  were  made  to  the  unfortunate  trappers  to 
come  on  shore.  They  were  obliged  to  comply.  Before 
they  could  get  out  of  their  canoes,  a  savage  seized  the 
rifle    belonging   to    Potts.      Colter   sprang   on   shore. 


3 
^ 


If 
I' 


1 

'  1 

^ 

1  ' 


i  1 


15 


I 

I' 


132 


ASTORIA 


wrested  tlie  weapon  from  tlic  hands  of  tlie  Indian,  and 
restored  it  to  his  companion,  who  was  still  in  the  canoe, 
and  immechately  pushed  into  the  stream.  There  was 
the  sharp  twang  of  a  bow,  and  Potts  cried  out  that  he 
was  wounded.  Colter  urged  him  to  come  on  shore  and 
submit,  as  his  only  chance  for  life ;  but  the  other  knew 
there  was  no  prospect  of  mercy,  and  determined  to  die 
game.  Levelling  his  rille,  he  shot  one  of  the  savages 
dead  on  the  spot.  The  next  moment  he  fell  himself, 
pierced  with  innumerable  arrows. 

The  vengeance  of  the  savages  now  turned  upon  Col- 
ter. He  was  stripped  naked,  and,  having  some  knowl- 
edge of  the  Blackfoot  language,  overheard  a  consulta- 
tion as  to  the  mode  of  dispatching  him.  so  as  to  derive 
the  greatest  amusement  from  his  death.  Some  were 
for  setting  him  up  as  a  mark,  and  having  a  trial  of  skill 
at  his  expense.  The  chief,  however,  was  for  nobler 
sport.  He  seized  Colter  by  the  shoulder,  and  de- 
manded if  he  could  run  fast.  The  unfortunate  trapper 
was  too  well  accfuainted  with  Indian  customs  not  to 
comprehend  the  drift  of  the  question.  He  knew  he 
was  to  run  for  his  life,  to  furnish  a  kind  of  human 
hunt  to  his  persecutors.  Though  in  reality  he  was 
noted  among  his  brother  hunters  for  swiftness  of  foot, 
he  assured  the  chief  that  he  was  a  very  bad  runner. 
His  stratagem  gained  him  some  vantage  ground.  He 
was  led  by  the  chief  into  the  prairie,  about  four  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  main  body  of  savages,  and  then 
turned  loose  to  save  himself  if  he  could.  A  tremendous 
yell  let  him  know  that  the  whole  pack  of  bloodhounds 
were  off  in  full  cry.  Colter  flew  rather  than  ran;  he 
was  astonished  at  his  own  speed;  but  he  had  six  miles 
of  prairie  to  traverse  before  he  should  reach  the  Jef- 
ferson Fork  of  the  Missouri ;  how  could  he  hope  to 
hold  out  such  a  distance  wdth  the  fearful  odds  of  sev- 
eral hundred  to  one  against  him !  The  plain,  too, 
abounded  with  the  prickly  pear,  which  wounded  his 


ASTORIA 


133 


le 
es 
;f- 
to 


naked  feet.  Still  he  fled  on,  dreading  each  moment  to 
hear  the  twang  of  a  bow,  and  to  feel  an  arrow  ([uiver- 
ing  at  his  heart.  He  did  not  even  dare  to  look  round, 
lest  he  should  lose  an  inch  of  that  distance  on  which  his 
life  depended.  He  had  run  nearly  half  way  across 
the  plain  when  the  sound  of  pursuit  grew  somewhat 
fainter,  and  he  ventured  to  turn  his  head.  The  main 
body  of  his  pursuers  were  a  considerable  distance  be- 
hind ;  several  of  the  fastest  runners  were  scattered  in 
the  advance;  while  a  swift-footed  v«cirrior,  armed  with 
a  spear,  was  not  more  than  a  hundred  yards  behind 
him. 

Inspired  with  new  hope,  Colter  redoubled  his  exer- 
tions, but  strained  himself  to  such  a  degree,  that  the 
blood  gushed  from  his  mouth  and  nostrils,  and 
streamed  down  his  breast.  He  arrived  within  a  mile 
of  the  river.  The  sound  of  footsteps  gathered  upon 
him.  A  glance  behind  showed  his  pursuer  within 
twenty  yards,  and  preparing  to  launch  his  spear.  Stop- 
ping short  he  turned  round  and  spread  out  his  arms. 
The  savage,  confounded  by  this  sudden  action,  at- 
tempted to  stop  and  hurl  his  spear,  but  fell  in  the  very 
act.  His  spear  stuck  in  the  ground,  and  the  shaft  broke 
in  his  hand.  Colter  plucked  up  the  pointed  part,  pinned 
the  savage  to  the  earth,  and  continued  his  flight.  The 
Indians,  as  they  arrived  at  their  slaughtered  compan- 
ion, stopped  to  howl  over  him.  Colter  made  the  most 
of  this  precious  delay,  gained  the  skirt  of  cotton-wood 
bordering  the  river,  dashed  through  it,  and  plunged 
into  the  stream.  He  swam  to  a  neighboring  island, 
against  the  upper  end  of  which  the  driftwood  had 
lodged  in  such  quantities  as  to  form  a  natural  raft ; 
under  this  he  dived,  and  swam  below  water  until  he 
succeeded  in  getting  a  breathing  place  between  the 
floating  trunks  of  trees,  whose  branches  and  bushes 
formed  a  covert  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
water.     He  had  scarcely  drawn  breath  after  all  his 


'i 


4 
ft 


I  ! 


^34 


ASTORIA 


I- 


\h 


I 


•T'i 


toils,  when  lie  heard  his  pursuers  on  tlie  river  bank, 
uhoopinjT;'  and  yelling-  like  so  many  fiends.  They 
l)lunged  in  the  river,  and  swam  to  the  raft.  The  heart 
of  Colter  almost  died  within  him  as  he  saw  them, 
through  the  ehinks  of  his  eoncealment,  passing  and  re- 
passing", and  seeking  for  him  in  all  directions.  They  at 
length  gave  uj)  the  search,  and  he  began  to  rejoice  in 
his  escape,  when  the  idea  presented  itself  that  they 
might  set  the  raft  on  fire.  Here  was  a  new  source  of 
horrible  apprehension,  in  which  he  rennined  until 
nightfall,  h^ortunately  the  idea  did  not  suggest  itself 
to  the  Indians.  As  soon  as<»  it  was  dark,  finding 
by  the  silence  around  that  his  pursuers  had  departed, 
Colter  dived  again  and  came  up  beyond  the  raft. 
He  then  swam  silently  down  the  river  for  a  consid- 
erable distance,  when  he  landed,  and  kept  on  all  night, 
to  get  as  far  off  as  possible  from  this  dangerous 
neighborhood. 

By  daybreak  he  had  gained  sufficient  distance  to  re- 
lieve him  from  the  terrors  of  his  savage  foes ;  but  now 
new  sources  of  inquietude  presented  themselves.  He 
was  naked  and  alone,  in  the  midst  of  an  unbounded 
wilderness;  his  only  chance  was  to  reach  a  trading 
post  of  the  Missouri  Company,  situated  on  a  branch  of 
the  Yellowstone  River.  Even  should  he  elude  his  pur- 
suers, days  must  elapse  before  he  could  reach  this  post, 
during  which  he  must  traverse  immense  prairies  desti- 
tute of  shade,  his  naked  body  exposed  to  the  burning 
heat  of  the  sun  by  day,  and  the  dews  and  chills  of  the 
night  season,  and  his  feet  lacerated  by  the  thorns  of 
the  prickly  pear.  Though  he  might  see  game  in  abun- 
dance around  him,  he  had  no  means  of  killing  any  for 
his  sustenance,  and  must  depend  for  food  upon  the 
roots  of  the  earth.  In  defiance  of  these  difficulties 
he  pushed  resolutely  forward,  guiding  himself  in  his 
trackless  course  by  those  signs  and  indications  known 
only  to  Indians  and  backwoodsmen ;  and  after  braving 


ASTORIA 


i:,5 


of 

iiir- 
|ost, 
■sti- 

I  the 
of 
liin- 
Ifor 
Ithe 
■ies 
Ihis 
Iwn 


(landers  and  hardships  ciK^u^h  to  hreak  down  any  spirit 
but  that  of  a  wcslcni  pioneer,  arrived  safe  at  the  soli- 
tary post  in  cpiestion.^ 

Such  is  a  sample  of  the  ru^^ed  exi^erience  which 
Colter  had  to  relate  of  savage  life;  yet,  with  all  these 
perils  and  terrors  fresh  in  his  recollection,  he  could 
not  see  the  present  hand  on  their  way  to  those  regions 
of  danger  and  adventure,  without  feeling  a  vehement 
impulse  to  join  them.  A  western  trapper  is  like  a 
sailor;  past  hazards  only  stimulate  him  to  further 
risks.  The  vast  prairie  is  to  the  one  w'.iat  the  ocean 
is  to  the  other,  a  boundless  field  o.'  eMtefj-ris-j  and  ex- 
ploit. However  he  may  ha\'e  suiTer':;d  in  his  1;*  i  cruise, 
lie  is  always  ready  to  join  a  new  e>'pe;iltion;  and  the 
more  adventurous  its  nature,  the  more  attractive  is  it 
to  his  vagrant  spirit. 

Nothing  seems  to  have  kept  Colter  from  cont'suting 
with  the  party  to  the  shores  of  the  I  acihr.  1>ui  tiie  cir- 
cumstance of  his  having  recently  married.  All  the 
morning  he  kept  with  them,  balancing  m  Ivs  niiiid  the 
charms  of  his  bride  against  those  of  the  Rock}'  Moun- 
tains;  the  former,  however,  prevailed,  and  after  a 
march  of  several  miles,  he  took  a  reluctant  leave  of  the 
travellers,  and  turned  his  face  homcv/ard. 

Continuing  their  progress  up  t!ie  iMisjOu*-!,  the  party 
encamped  on  the  evening  of  the  21st  of  ^iarch,  in  Ihe 
neighborhood  of  a  little  frontier  village  of  French  Cre- 
oles. Here  Pierre  Dorion  met  with  some  of  h:s  olc' 
comrades,  with  whom  he  had  a  l^>ng  gos:'i\:,  and  re- 
turned to  the  camp  with  rumors  c  f  liloody  feuds  be- 
tween the  Osages  and  the  Iov»ays,  or  ^Vy^ways,  Poto- 
watomies,  Sioux,  and  Sav.kee&.  Blood  had  already 
been  shed,  and  scalps  been  taken.  A  war  party,  three 
hundred  strong,  were  prowling  in  the  neighborhood; 
others  might  be  met  with  higher  up  the  river;  it  be- 
hooved the  travellers,  therefore,  to  be  upon  their  guard 

^  Bradbury,  Travels  in  America,  p.  17. 


i 


.i  -;< 


•a 


%  I 


136 


ASTORIA 


M 


t.  1. 

iff 


against  robbery  or  surprise,  for  an  Indian  war  party 
on  the  march  is  prone  to  acts  of  outrage. 

In  consequence  of  this  report,  which  was  subse- 
fjucntly  confirmed  by  further  intelhgence,  a  guard  was 
kept  up  at  night  round  the  encampment,  and  they  all 
slept  on  their  arms.  As  they  were  sixteen  in  number, 
and  well  supplied  with  weapons  and  ammunition,  they 
trusted  to  be  able  to  give  any  marauding  party  a  warm 
reception.  Nothing  occurred,  however,  to  molest  them 
on  their  voyage,  and  on  the  8th  of  April  they  came  in 
sight  of  Fort  Osage.  On  their  approach  the  flag  was 
hoisted  on  the  fort,  and  they  saluted  it  by  a  discharge 
of  fire-arms.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the  fort  was 
an  Osage  village,  the  inhabitants  of  which,  men, 
women,  and  children,  thronged  down  to  the  water  side 
to  witness  their  landing.  One  of  the  first  persons  they 
met  on  the  river  bank  was  Mr.  Crooks,  who  had  come 
down  in  a  boat,  with  nine  men,  from  the  winter  en- 
campment at  Nodowa,  to  meet  them. 

Tiicy  remained  at  Fort  Osage  a  part  of  three  days, 
during  which  they  were  hospitably  entertained  at  the 
garrison  by  Lieutenant  Brownson,  who  held  a  tempo- 
rary command.  They  were  regaled  also  with  a  war- 
feast  at  the  village ;  the  Osage  warriors  having  re- 
turned from  a  successful  foray  against  the  loways,  in 
which  they  had  taken  seven  scalps.  They  were  paraded 
on  poles  about  the  village,  followed  by  the  w^arriors 
decked  out  in  all  their  savage  ornaments,  and  hideously 
painted  as  if  for  battle. 

By  the  Osage  warriors,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  compan- 
ions were  again  warned  to  be  on  their  guard  in  ascend- 
ing the  river,  as  the  Sioux  tribe  meant  to  lay  in  wait 
and  attack  them. 

On  the  TOth  of  April  they  again  embarked,  their 
party  being  now  augmented  to  twenty-six,  l)y  the  addi- 
tion of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  boat's  crew.  They  had  not 
proceeded  far,  however,  when  there  was  a  great  outcry 


ASTORIA 


^37 


)an- 
Mid- 
Ivait 

peir 
Idi- 
not 

cry 


from  one  of  the  boats ;  it  was  occasioned  by  a  little 
domestic  discipline  in  the  Dorion  family.  The  S([ua\v 
of  the  worthy  interjjretcr,  it  appeared,  had  been  so  de- 
lighted with  the  scalp-dance,  and  other  festivities  of  the 
Osage  village,  that  she  had  taken  a  strong  inclinati(Mi 
to  remain  there.  This  had  been  as  strongly  opposed 
by  her  liege  lord,  who  had  compelled  her  to  embark. 
The  good  dame  had  remained  sulky  ever  since,  where- 
upon l^ierre,  seeing  no  other  mode  of  exorcising  the 
evil  spirit  out  of  her,  and  being,  perhaps,  a  little  in- 
spired bv  whiskev,  had  resorted  to  the  Indian  remedy 
of  the  cudgel,  and  before  his  neighbors  could  interfere, 
had  belal)ored  her  so  soundly,  that  there  is  no  record 
of  her  having  shown  any  refractory  symptoms  through- 
out the  remainder  of  the  expedition. 
I  For  a  week  they  continued  their  voyage,  exposed  to 
almost  incessant  rains.  The  bodies  of  drowned  buffa- 
loes floated  past  them  in  vast  numbers ;  many  had 
drifted  upon  the  shore,  or  against  the  upper  ends  of 
the  rafts  and  islands.  These  had  attracted  great  fliglits 
of  turkey-buzzards ;  some  were  banqueting  on  the  car- 
casses, others  were  soaring  far  aloft  in  the  sky,  and 
others  were  perched  on  the  trees,  with  their  backs  to 
the  sun,  and  their  wings  stretched  out  to  dry,  like  so 
many  vessels  in  harbor,  spreading  their  sails  after  a 
shower. 

The  turkey-buzzard  {vitUur  aura,  or  golden  vul- 
ture), when  on  the  wing,  is  one  of  the  most  specious 
and  imposing  of  birds.  Its  flight  in  the  upper  regions 
of  the  air  is  really  sublime,  extending  its  immense 
wings,  and  wheeling  slowly  and  majestically  to  and 
fro,  seemingly  without  exerting  a  muscle  or  fluttering 
a  feather,  but  moving  by  mere  volition,  and  sailing  on 
the  bosom  of  the  air,  as  a  ship  upon  the  ocean.  Usurp- 
ing the  empyreal  realm  of  the  eagle,  he  assumes  for  a 
time  the  port  and  dignity  of  that  majestic  bird,  and 
often  is  mistaken  for  him  by  ignorant  crawlers  upon 


;/• 


i 


138 


ASTORIA 


earth.  It  is  only  when  he  descencU  from  the  clouds  to 
pounce  upon  carrion  that  he  betrays  his  low  propensi- 
ties, and  reveals  his  caitiff  character.  Near  at  hand  he 
is  a  disgusting  bird,  ragged  in  plumage,  base  in  aspect, 
and  of  loathsome  odor. 

On  the  17th  of  April  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  with  his 
party  at  the  station  near  the  Nodowa  River,  where  the 
main  body  had  been  quartered  during  the  winter. 


1; 


CHAPTER   XVI 

The  weather  continued  rainy  and  ungenial  for  some 
days  after  Mr.  Hunt's  return  to  Nodowa;  yet  spring 
was  rapidly  advancing  and  vegetation  was  putting 
forth  with  all  its  early  freshness  and  beauty.  The 
snakes  began  to  recover  from  their  torpor  and  crawl 
forth  into  day ;  and  the  neighborhood  of  the  wintering 
house  seems  to  have  been  much  infested  with  tliem. 
Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course  of  his  botanical  researches, 
found  a  surprising  number  in  a  half  torpid  state,  under 
flat  stones  upon  the  banks  which  overhung  the  canton- 
ment, and  narrowly  escaped  being  struck  by  a  rattle- 
snake, which  darted  at  him  from  a  cleft  in  the  rock, 
but  fortunately  gave  him  warning  by  his  rattle. 

The  pigeons,  too,  were  filling  the  woods  in  vas^  mi- 
gratory flocks.  It  is  almost  incredible  to  describe  the 
prodigious  flights  of  these  birds  in  the  western  wilder- 
nesses. They  appear  absolutely  in  clouds,  and  move 
with  astonishing  velocity,  their  wings  making  a  whiis- 
tling  sound  as  they  fly.  The  rapid  evolutions  of  these 
flocks,  wheeling  and  shifting  suddenly  as  if  with  one 
mind  and  one  impulse ;  the  flashing  changes  of  color 
they  present,  as  their  backs,  their  breasts,  or  the  under 
part  of  their  wings  are  turned  to  the  spectator,  are  sin- 
gularly pleasing.    When  they  alight,  if  on  the  ground, 


V  ^ 


ASTORIA 


139 


mi- 

the 

Her- 

lovc 

lliis- 

lese 

)ne 

)lor 

Ider 

^^n- 

Ind, 


they  cover  whole  acres  at  a  time;  if  upon  trees,  the 
branches  often  break  'l)eneath  their  weij^ht.  If  sud- 
denly startled  while  feeding  in  the  midst  of  a  forest, 
the  noise  they  make  in  getting  on  the  wing  is  like 
^he  roar  of  a  cataract  or  the  sound  of  distant 
thunder. 

A  flight  of  this  kind,  lik^  an  Egyptian  flight  of 
locusts,  devours  everything  lUat  serves  for  its  food  as 
it  passes  along.  So  great  were  the  numbers  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  camp  that  Mr.  Bradbury,  in  the  course 
of  a  morning's  excursion,  shot  nearly  three  hundred 
with  a  fowling-piece.  He  gives  a  curious,  though  ap- 
parently a  faithful,  account  of  the  kind  of  discipline 
observed  in  these  immense  flocks,  so  that  each  may 
have  a  chance  of  picking  up  food.  As  the  front  ranks 
must  meet  with  the  greatest  abundance,  and  the  rear 
ranks  must  have  scanty  pickings,  the  instant  a  rank 
finds  itself  the  hindmost,  it  rises  in  the  air,  flies  over 
the  whole  flock  and  takes  its  place  in  the  advance.  The 
next  rank  follows  in  its  course,  and  thus  the  last  is  con- 
tinually becoming  first  and  all  by  turns  have  a  front 
place  at  the  banquet. 

The  rains  having  at  length  subsided,  Mr.  Hunt  broke 
up  the  encampment  and  resumed  his  course  up  the 
Missouri. 

The  party  now  consisted  of  nearly  sixty  persons; 
of  whom  five  were  i)artners,  one,  John  Reed,  was  a 
clerk :  forty  were  Canadian  "  voyageurs,"  or  "  en- 
gages," and  there  were  several  hunters.  They  em- 
barked in  four  boats,  one  of  which  was  of  a  large  size, 
mounting  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers.  All  were  fur- 
nished with  masts  and  sails,  to  be  used  when  the  wind 
was  sufficiently  favorable  and  strong  to  overpower  tiie 
current  of  the  river.  Such  was  the  case  for  the  first 
four  or  five  days,  when  they  were  wafted  steadily  up 
the  stream  by  a  strong  southeaster. 

Their  encampments  at  night  were  often  pleasant  and 


r     z 


t:     t 


f; 


ii;i 


t 


li-- 


I: 


m 

If  1'    ! 


14 


140 


ASTORIA 


picturesque:  ou  some  beautiful  bank,  beneath  spread- 
ing trees,  which  afforded  them  shelter  and  fuel.  The 
tents  were  pitched,  the  fires  made,  and  the  meals  pre- 
pared by  the  voyageurs,  and  many  a  story  was  told, 
and  joke  passed,  and  song  sung  round  the  evening  fire. 
All.  however,  were  asleep  at  an  early  hour.  Some 
under  the  tents,  others  wrapped  in  blankets  before  the 
fire,  or  beneath  the  trees;  and  some  few  in  the  boats 
and  canoes. 

On  the  28th,  they  breakfasted  on  one  of  the  islands 
which  lie  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River 
—  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  about  six 
hundred  miles  above  its  confluence  wit^  the  Mississippi. 
This  broad  but  shallow  stream  flows  for  an  immense 
distance  through  a  wide  and  verdant  valley  scooped  out 
of  boundless  prairies.  It  draws  its  main  supplies  by 
several  forks  or  branches,  from  the  Rocky  P.^ountains. 
The  mouth  of  this  river  is  established  as  the  dividing 
point  between  the  upper  and  low-er  Missouri;  and  the 
earlier  voyagers,  in  their  toilsome  ascent,  before  the 
introduction  of  steamboats,  considered  one-half  of 
their  labors  accomplished  when  they  reached  this  place. 
The  passing  of  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska,  therefore, 
was  equivalent  among  boatmen  to  the  crossing  of  the 
line  among  sailors,  and  was  celebrated  with  like  cere- 
monials of  a  rough  and  waggish  nature,  practised  upon 
the  uninitiated  ;  among  which  was  the  old  nautical  joke 
of  shaving.  The  river  deities,  however,  like  those  of 
tlie  sea.  were  to  be  propitiated  by  a  bribe,  and  the  in- 
fliction of  these  rude  honors  to  be  parried  by  a  treat 
to  the  adepts. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Nebraska  new^  signs  were  met 
Avith  of  war  parties  which  had  recently  been  in  the 
vicinity.  There  was  the  frame  of  a  skin  canoe,  in 
which  the  warriors  had  traversed  the  river.  At  night, 
also,  the  lurid  reflection  of  immense  fires  hung  in  the 
sky.  showing  the  conflagration  of  great    racts  cf  the 


ASTORIA 


141 


met 

the 

in 

the 
the 


prairies.  Such  fires  not  lieing  made  hy  hunters  so  late 
in  the  season,  it  was  supposed  they  were  caused  hy 
some  wandering;  war  jjarties.  These  often  take  the 
precaution  to  set  the  prairies  on  fire  ])ehiii(l  them  to 
conceal  their  traces  from  tlieir  enemies.  This  is  chielly 
done  when  the  party  has  heen  unsuccessful,  and  is  on 
the  retreat  and  apprehensive  of  pursuit.  At  such  time 
it  is  not  safe  even  for  friends  to  fall  in  with  them,  as 
they  are  apt  to  be  in  savage  humor,  and  disposed  to 
vent  their  spleen  in  capricious  outraj^e.  These  signs, 
therefore,  of  a  band  of  marauders  on  the  prowl,  called 
for  some  degree  of  vigilance  on  the  part  of  the 
travellers. 

After  passing  the  Nebraska,  the  party  halted  for 
part  of  two  days  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  a  little  above 
Papillion  Creek,  to  supply  themselves  with  a  stock  of 
oars  and  poles  from  the  tough  wood  of  the  ash.  which 
is  not  met  with  higher  up  the  Missouri.  While  the 
voyagers  were  thus  occupied,  the  naturalists  rambled 
over  the  adjacent  country  to  collect  plants.  From  the 
summit  of  a  range  of  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  they  had 
one  of  those  vast  and  magnificent  prospects  which 
sometimes  unfold  themselves  in  those  boundless  re- 
gions. Below  them  was  the  Valley  of  the  Missouri, 
about  seven  miles  in  breadth,  clad  in  the  fresh  verdure 
of  spring;  enamelled  with  flowers  and  interspersed 
with  clumps  and  groves  of  noble  trees,  between  which 
the  mighty  river  poured  its  turbulent  and  turbid  stream. 
The  interior  of  the  country  presented  a  singular  scene ; 
the  immense  waste  being  broken  up  by  innumerable 
green  hills,  not  above  eight  feet  in  height,  but  ex- 
tremely steep,  and  actually  pointed  at  their  summits.  A 
long  line  of  bluffs  extended  for  upwards  of  thirty  miles 
parallel  to  the  Missouri,  with  a  shallow  lake  stretching 
along  their  base,  which  had  evidently  once  formed  a 
bed  of  the  river.    The  surface  of  this  lake  was  covered 


M  i 


-.4 
i 

'1 

I 


i'l' 


1? 


{  i 


i  I 


if 


r  • 


142 


ASTORIA 


Willi  aquatic  plants,  on  the  broad  leaves  of  wliich 
numbers  of  water-snakes,  drawn  forth  by  the  genial 
warmth  of  spring,  were  basking  in  the  sunshine. 

On  the  2(1  day  of  May,  at  the  usual  hour  of  embark- 
ing, the  camj)  was  thrown  into  some  confusion  by  two 
of  the  hunters,  named  Harrington,  expressing  their 
intention  to  abandon  the  expedition  and  return  home. 
One  of  these  had  joined  the  party  in  the  preceding 
autumn,  having  been  hunting  for  two  years  on  the  Mis- 
souri;  the  other  had  engaged  at  St.  Louis,  in  the  fol- 
lowing March,  and  had  come  up  from  thence  with  Mr. 
Hunt.  He  now  declared  that  he  had  enlisted  merely 
for  the  purpose  of  following  his  brother,  and  persuad- 
ing him  to  return ;  having  been  enjoined  to  do  so  by 
his  mother,  whose  anxiety  had  been  awakened  by  the 
idea  of  his  going  on  such  a  wild  and  distant  expedition. 

The  loss  of  two  stark  hunters  and  prime  riflemen  was 
a  serious  affair  to  the  party,  for  they  were  approaching 
the  region  where  they  might  expect  hostilities  from  the 
Sioux :  indeed,  throughout  the  whole  of  their  perilous 
journey,  the  services  of  such  men  would  be  all  impor- 
tant, for  little  reliance  was  to  be  placed  upon  the  valor 
of  the  Canadians  in  case  of  attack.  Mr.  Hunt  endeav- 
ored by  arguments,  expostulations,  and  entreaties,  to 
shake  the  determination  of  the  two  brothers.  He  rep- 
resented to  them  that  they  were  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri ;  that 
they  would  have  four  hundred  miles  to  go  before  they 
could  reach  the  habitation  of  a  white  man,  throughout 
which  they  would  be  exposed  to  all  kinds  of  risks; 
since,  he  declared,  if  they  persisted  in  abandoning  him 
and  breaking  their  faith,  he  would  not  furnish  them 
with  a  single  round  of  ammunition.  All  was  in  vain; 
they  obstinately  persisted  in  their  resolution ;  where- 
upon, Mr.  Hunt,  partly  incited  by  indignation,  partly 
by  the  policy  of  deterring  others  from  desertion,  put 
his  threat  into  execution,  and  left  them  to  find  tlieir 


II 


ASTORIA 


143 


way  back  to  the  settlements  without,  as  he  supposed, 
a  single  bullet  or  charge  of  powder. 

The  boats  now  continued  their  slow  and  toilsome 
course  for  several  days,  against  the  current  of  the  river. 
The  late  signs  of  roaming  war  parties  caused  a  vigilant 
watch  to  be  kept  up  at  night  when  the  crews  encam[)C(l 
on  shore;  nor  was  tliis  vigilance  superlluous;  for  on 
the  night  of  the  seventh  instant,  there  was  a  wild  and 
fearful  yell,  and  eleven  Sioux  warriors,  stark  naked, 
with  tomahawks  in  their  hands,  rushed  int(j  the  camp. 
"i1iey  were  instantly  surrounded  and  seized,  whereupon 
their  leader  called  out  to  his  followers  to  desist  from 
any  violence,  and  pretended  to  be  perfectly  pacific  in 
his  intentions.  It  proved,  however,  that  they  were  a 
part  of  the  war  party,  the  skeleton  of  whose  canoe  had 
been  seen  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Platte,  and  the  re- 
flection of  whose  fires  had  been  descried  in  the  air. 
They  had  been  disappointed  or  defeated  in  the  foray, 
and  in  their  rage  and  mortification  these  eleven  war- 
riors had  "  devoted  their  clothes  to  the  medicine." 
This  is  a  desperate  act  of  Indian  braves  when  foiled 
in  war,  and  in  dread  of  scoffs  and  sneers.  In  such  case 
they  sometimes  throw  off  their  clothes  and  ornaments, 
devote  themselves  to  the  Great  Spirit,  and  attempt 
some  reckless  exploit  with  which  to  cover  their  dis- 
grace. Woe  to  any  defenceless  party  of  white  men 
that  may  then  fall  in  their  way! 

Such  was  the  explanation  given  by  Pierre  Dorion, 
the  half-breed  interpreter,  of  this  wild  intrusion  into 
the  camp;  and  the  party  were  so  exasperated  when 
apprised  of  the  sanguinary  intentions  of  the  prisoners, 
that  they  were  for  shooting  them  on  the  spot.  Mr. 
Hunt,  however,  exerted  his  usual  moderation. and  hu- 
manity, and  ordered  tliat  they  should  l)e  conveyed 
across  the  river  in  one  of  the  boats,  threatening  them, 
however,  with  certain  death,  if  again  caught  in  any 
hostile  act. 


3 


r 


V    ' 

)  • 

1 1 

■ 

f; 

'ki 

i        :* 

■    1 

I! 

;  i  ■'.     1 

It       » 

144 


ASTORIA 


On  the  loth  of  May  the  party  arrived  at  the  Omaha 
(pronounced  Omawhaw)  village,  about  eight  hundred 
and  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Alissouri,  and 
encamped  in  its  neighborhood.  The  village  was  situ- 
ated under  a  hill  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  consisted 
of  about  eighty  lodges.  These  were  of  a  circular  and 
conical  form,  and  about  sixteen  feet  in  diameter;  being 
mere  tents  of  dressed  buffalo  skins,  sewed  together 
and  stretched  on  long  poles,  inclined  towards  each  other 
so  as  to  cross  at  about  half  their  height.  Thus  the 
naked  tops  of  the  poles  diverge  in  such  a  manner  that, 
if  they  were  covered  with  skins  like  the  lower  ends,  the 
tent  would  be  shaped  like  an  hour-glass,  and  present 
the  appearance  of  one  cone  inverted  on  the  apex  of 
another. 

The  forms  of  Indian  lodges  are  worthy  of  attention, 
each  tribe  having  a  different  mode  of  shaping  and  ar- 
ranging them,  so  that  it  is  easy  to  tell,  on  seeing  a  lodge 
or  an  encampment  at  a  distance,  to  what  tribe  the  in- 
habitants belong.  The  exterior  of  the  Omaha  lodges 
have  often  a  gay  and  fanciful  appearance,  being 
painted  with  undulating  bands  of  red  or  yellow,  or 
decorated  with  rude  figures  of  horses,  deer,  and  buffa- 
loes, and  with  human  faces,  painted  like  full  moons, 
four  and  five  feet  broad. 

The  Omahas  were  once  one  of  the  numerous  and 
powerful  tribes  of  the  prairies,  vying  in  warlike  might 
and  prowess  with  the  Sioux,  the  Pawnees,  the  Sauks, 
the  Konzas,  and  the  latans.  Their  wars  with  the 
Sioux,  however,  had  thinned  their  ranks,  and  the  small- 
])ox  in  1P02  had  swept  off  two  thirds  of  their  number. 
At  the  time  of  Mr.  Hunt's  visit  they  still  boasted  about 
two  hundred  warriors  and  hunters,  but  they  are  now 
fast  melting  away,  and  before  long,  will  be  numbered 
among  those  extinguished  nations  of  the  west  that 
exist  but  in  tradition. 

In   his  correspondence   with   Mr.    Astor,    from   this 


ASTORIA 


145 


low 

-ed 

Ihat 


111  is 


point  of  his  journey.  Mr.  Hunt  gives  a  sad  account  of 
the  In(h'an  tribes  bordering  on  the  river,  'i'hey  weie 
in  continual  war  with  each  other,  and  their  wars  were 
of  the  most  harassing  kind;  consisting,  not  merely  of 
main  conflicts  and  expeditions  of  moment,  involving 
the  sackings,  burnings,  and  massacres  of  towns  and 
villages,  but  of  individual  acts  of  treachery,  murder, 
and  cold-l)looded  crueltv;  or  of  vaunting  and  fool- 
hardy exploits  of  single  warriors,  either  to  avenge  some 
personal  wrong,  or  gain  the  vaingloriftus  troph^'  of  a 
scalp.  The  lonely  hunter,  the  wandering  wayfarer,  the 
poor  squaw  cutting  wood  or  gathering  corn,  was  liable 
to  be  surprised  and  slaughtered.  In  this  way  tribes 
were  either  swept  away  at  once,  or  gradually  thinned 
out,  and  savage  life  was  surrounded  with  constant 
horrors  and  alarms,  ^dlat  the  race  of  red  men  should 
diminish  from  year  to  year,  and  so  few  should  survive 
of  the  numerous  nations  which  evidently  once  peopled 
the  vast  regions  of  the  west,  is  nothing  surprising;  it 
is  rather  matter  of  surprise  that  so  many  should  sur- 
vive ;  for  the  existence  of  a  savage  in  these  parts  seems 
little  better  than  a  prolonged  and  all-besetting  death. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  caricature  of  the  boasted  romance  of 
feudal  times;  chivalry  in  its  native  and  uncultured 
state,  and  knight-errantry  run  wild. 

In  their  most  prosperous  days,  the  Omahas  looked 
upon  themselves  as  the  most  powerful  and  perfect  of 
human  beings,  and  considered  all  created  things  as 
made  for  their  peculiar  use  and  benefit.  It  is  this  tribe 
of  whose  chief,  the  famous  Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba,  or 
Blackbird,  such  savage  and  romantic  stories  are  told. 
He  had  died  about  ten  years  previous  to  the  arrival  of 
Mr.  Hunt's  party,  but  his  name  was  still  mentioned 
with  awe  by  his  people.  He  was  one  of  the  first  among 
the  Indian  chiefs  on  the  Missouri  to  deal  with  the  white 
traders,  and  showed  great  sagacity  in  levying  his  n^val 
dues.     When  a  trader  arrived  in  his  village,  he  caused 

10 


i     I' 

V       I 

t 
\    1 


i 


I 


-f*      'M 


^? 


i-' 

ir    . 


146 


ASTORIA 


III!  his  goods  to  be  l)roiight  into  his  lodj^e  and  opened. 
I'rom  these  he  seleeted  whatever  suited  his  sovereign 
pleasure;  blankets,  tobacco,  wliiskey,  powder,  ball, 
beads,  and  red  paint;  and  laid  the  articles  on  one  side, 
without  dei.e;"ning  to  give  any  compensation.  1'hen 
calling  to  him  his  herald  or  crier,  he  would  order  him 
to  mount  on  top  of  the  lodge  and  summon  all  the  tribe 
to  bring  in  their  peltries,  and  trade  with  the  white  man. 
The  lodge  would  soon  be  crowded  with  Indians  bring- 
ing bear,  beave^,  otter,  and  other  skins.  No  one  was 
allowed  to  dispute  the  ])rices  fixed  by  the  white  trader 
upon  his  articles;  who  took  care  to  indemnify  himself 
five  times  over  for  the  goods  set  apart  by  the  chief. 
In  this  way  the  Blackbird  enriched  himself,  and  en- 
riched the  white  men,  and  became  exceedingly  popular 
among  the  traders  of  the  Missouri.  His  people,  how- 
ever, were  not  equally  satisfied  by  a  regulation  of  trade 
which  worked  so  manifestly  against  them,  and  began 
to  show  signs  of  discontent.  Upon  this  a  crafty  and 
unprincipled  trader  revealed  a  secret  to  the  Blackbird, 
by  which  he  might  ac(|uire  unbounded  sway  over  his 
ignorant  and  superstitious  subjects.  He  instructed 
him  in  the  poisonous  qualities  of  arsenic,  and  furnished 
him  with  an  ample  supi)l'y  of  that  baneful  drug.  From 
this  time  the  Blackbird  seemed  endowed  with  super- 
natural powers,  to  possess  the  gift  of  prophecy,  and  to 
hold  the  disposal  of  life  and  death  within  his  hands. 
Woe  to  any  one  who  questioned  his  authority  or  dared 
to  dispute  his  commands!  The  Blackbird  prophesied 
his  death  within  a  certain  time,  and  he  had  the  secret 
means  of  verifying  his  prophecy.  Within  the  fated 
period  the  offender  was  smitten  with  strange  and  sud- 
den disease,  and  perished  from  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Every  one  stood  aghast  at  these  multiplied  examples 
of  his  superhuman  might,  and  dreaded  to  dis])lease  so 
omnipotent  and  vindictive  a  l)eing;  and  the  Blackbird 
enjoyed  a  wide  and  undisputed  sway. 


ASTORIA 


147 


It  was  not,  however,  hy  terror  alone  that  he  ruled  his 
peojjle ;  he  was  a  warrior  of  the  first  order,  and  his 
exploits  in  arms  were  the  theme  of  youn.cf  and  old.  His 
career  had  hej^nn  by  hardships,  havini^  been  taken  pris- 
oner l)y  the  Sioux,  in  early  youth.  Under  his  com- 
mand, the  Omahas  obtained  j^'-reat  character  for  mili- 
tary prowess,  nor  did  he  i)ermit  an  insult  or  an  injury 
to  one  of  his  tribe  to  pass  um-even^"ed.  The  Pawnee 
republicans  had  inflicted  a  gross  indii^nity  on  a  favorite 
and  disting'uished  Omaha  brave.  The  lilackbird  as- 
sembled his  warriors,  led  them  ag"ainst  the  Pawnee 
town,  attacked  it  with  irresistible  fury,  slaughtered  a 
great  number  of  its  inhabitants,  and  burnt  it  to  the 
ground.  He  waged  fierce  and  bloody  war  against  the 
Ottoes  for  many  years,  until  peace  was  effected  be- 
tween them  by  the  mediation  of  the  whites,  l-'earless 
in  battle,  and  fond  of  signalizing  himself,  he  dazzled 
his  followers  by  daring  acts.  In  attacking  a  Kanza 
village,  he  rode  singly  round  it,  loading  and  discharg- 
ing his  rifle  at  the  inhabitants  as  he  galloped  past  them. 
He  kept  up  in  war  the  same  idea  of  mysterious  and 
supernatural  power.  At  one  time,  when  pursuing  a 
war  party  by  their  tracks  across  the  ])rairies,  he  repeat- 
edly discharged  his  rifle  into  the  {prints  made  by  their 
feet  and  by  the  hoofs  of  their  horses,  assuring  his  fol- 
lowers that  he  would  thereby  cripple  the  fugitives,  so 
that  they  wou.ld  easily  be  overtaken.  He  in  fact  did 
overtake  them,  and  destroyed  them  almost  to  a  man ; 
and  his  victory  was  considered  miraculous,  both  by 
friend  and  foe.  By  these  and  similar  ex])loits,  he  made 
himself  the  pride  and  boast  of  his  peoi)le,  and  became 
popular  among  them,  notwithstanding  his  death-de- 
nouncing fiat. 

With  all  his  savage  and  terrific  qualities,  he  was  sen- 
sible of  the  power  of  female  beauty,  and  capable  of 
love.  A  war  party  of  the  Poncas  had  made  a  foray 
into  the  lands  of  the  Omahas,  and  carried  off  a  number 


I 

f  ; 


m 


148 


ASTORIA 


of  women  and  horses.  The  Blackhird  was  roused  to 
fury,  and  took  the  field  with  all  his  braves,  swearinj^  to 
'*  eat  up  the  Ponea  nation  "  —  the  Indian  threat  of  ex- 
terniinatinj^  war.  The  Poncas,  sorely  pressed,  took 
refuge  behind  a  rude  bulwark  of  earth;  but  the  lUaek- 
l)ird  kept  up  so  gallinjq;'  a  fire,  that  he  seemed  likely  to 
execute  his  menace.  In  their  extremity  they  sent  forth 
a  herald,  bearing  the  calumet  or  pipe  of  ])eace,  but  he 
was  shot  down  l)y  order  of  the  I'lackbird.  Another 
herald  was  sent  forth  in  similar  guise,  but  he  shared 
a  like  fate.  The  Ponca  chief  then,  as  a  last  hope,  ar- 
rayed his  beautiful  daughter  in  her  finest  ornaments, 
and  sent  her  forth  with  a  calumet,  to  sue  for  peace. 
The  charms  of  the  Indian  maid  touched  the  stern  heart 
of  the  Blackbird;  he  accepted  the  pipe  at  her  hand, 
smoked  it,  and  from  that  time  a  peace  took  place  be- 
tween the  J'oncas  and  the  Omahas. 

This  beautiful  damsel,  in  all  probability,  was  the 
favorite  wife  whose  fate  makes  so  tragic  an  incident 
in  the  story  of  the  Blackbird.  Her  youth  and  beauty 
had  gained  an  absolute  sway  over  his  rugged  heart,  so 
that  he  distinguished  her  above  all  of  his  other  wives. 
The  habitual  gratification  of  his  vindictive  impulses, 
however,  had  taken  away  from  him  all  mastery  over 
his  passions,  and  rendered  him  liable  to  the  most  furi- 
ous transports  of  rage.  In  one  of  these  his  beautiful 
wife  had  the  misfortune  to  offend  him,  when  suddenly 
drawing  his  knife,  he  laid  her  dead  at  his  feet  with  a 
single  blow. 

In  an  instant  his  frenzy  was  at  an  end.  Pie  gazed 
for  a  time  in  mute  bewilderment  upon  his  victim;  then 
drawing  his  buffalo  robe  over  his  head,  he  sat  down  be- 
side the  corpse,  and  remained  brooding  over  his  crime 
and  his  loss.  Three  days  elapsed,  yet  the  chief  con- 
tinued silent  and  motionless;  tasting  no  food,  and 
apparently  sleepless.  It  was  apprehended  that  he 
intended  to  star\-e  himself  to  death ;    his  people  ap- 


ASTORIA 


1 49 


Mily 
th  a 

I  zed 
Ihcn 

1)e- 
linie 
lon- 

md 
he 

lap- 


proachcd  liini  in  treml)HnjT^  awe.  and  entreated  him 
onee  more  to  nneover  liis  faee  and  he  eoniforted;  hnt 
he  remained  nnmoved.  At  lengtli  one  of  his  warriors 
hronght  in  a  small  ehild,  and  laying;  it  on  the  j^ronnd, 
plaeed  the  foot  of  the  Blaekhird  npon  its  neck.  The 
lieart  of  the  gloomy  savage  was  tonehed  hy  this  api)eal ; 
he  threw  aside  his  rohe;  made  an  harangne  npon  what 
he  had  done;  and  from  that  time  forward  .seemed  to 
have  thrown  the  load  of  grief  and  remorse  from  his 
mind. 

I  le  still  retained  his  fatal  and  mysterions  secret,  and 
with  it  his  terrific  power;  hnt,  ihongh  ahle  to  deal 
death  to  his  enemies,  he  conld  not  avert  it  from  him- 
self or  his  friends.  In  1S02  the  small-pox,  that  dread- 
fnl  pestilence,  which  swept  over  the  land  like  a  fire  over 
the  prairie,  made  its  appearance  in  the  village  of  the 
Omahas.  The  poor  savages  saw  with  dismay  the  rav- 
ages of  a  malady,  loathsome  and  agonizing  in  its  de- 
tails, and  which  set  the  skill  ami  experience  of  their 
conjnrers  and  medicine  men  at  defiance.  In  a  little 
while,  two  thirds  of  the  popnlation  were  swept  from 
the  face  of  the  earth,  and  the  doom  of  the  rest  seemed 
sealed.  The  stoicism  of  the  warriors  was  at  an  end; 
they  hecame  wild  and  desperate;  some  set  fire  to  the 
village  as  a  last  means  of  checking  the  pestilence; 
others,  in  a  frenzy  of  despair,  pnt  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren to  death,  that  they  might  he  .spared  the  agonies  of 
an  inevitahle  disease,  and  that  they  might  all  go  to  some 
hetter  conntry. 

When  the  general  horror  and  dismay  was  at  its 
height,  the  Blaekhird  himself  w'as  strnck  down  with  the 
malady.  The  poor  savages,  when  they  saw  their  chief 
in  danger,  forgot  their  own  miseries,  and  snrronnded 
his  dying  hed.  His  dominant  spirit,  and  his  love  for 
the  white  men.  were  evinced  in  his  latest  hreath.  with 
which  he  designated  his  phice  of  sepnltnre.  It  was  to 
he  on  a  hill  or  promontory,  upwards  of  four  hundred 


1 

.1' 

HI 


Hi 


^50 


ASTORIA 


I  i 


win ;' 
ifV 


I 


feet  in  height,  ovcrlookincj^  a  i;rcat  extent  of  the  Mis- 
souri, from  whence  he  liad  l)een  acccuslomed  to  watch 
for  tlie  barks  of  the  white  men.  The  Missouri  washes 
the  l)ase  of  the  promontory,  and  after  wincHng  and 
doubhng  in  many  hnks  and  mazes  in  the  plain  bek)w, 
returns  to  within  nine  hunch-ed  yards  of  its  starting- 
place;  so  th.at  for  thirty  miles  navigating  with  sail  and 
oar,  the  voyager  finds  himself  continually  near  to  this 
singular  promontory  as  if  s])cll-l)ound. 

It  was  the  dying  command  of  the  Blackbird  that  his 
tomb  should  be  upon  the  summit  of  this  hill,  in  which 
he  should  be  interred,  seated  on  his  favorite  horse,  that 
he  might  overlook  his  ancient  domain,  and  behold  the 
barks  of  the  white  men  as  they  came  up  the  river  to 
trade  with  his  people. 

His  dying  orders  were  faitli fully  obeyed.  His  corpse 
was  placed  astride  of  his  war-steed  and  a  mound  raised 
over  them  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  On  top  of  the 
mound  was  erected  a  staff,  from  whicli  fluttered  the 
banner  of  the  chieftain,  and  the  scalps  that  he  had 
taken  in  battle.  When  the  expedition  under  Mr.  Hunt 
visited  that  part  of  the  countiy,  the  staff  still  remained, 
with  the  fragments  of  the  banner;  and  the  supersti- 
tious rite  of  placing  food  from  lime  to  time  on  the 
mound,  for  the  use  of  the  deceased,  was  still  observed 
by  the  Omahas.  That  rite  has  since  fallen  into  disuse, 
for  the  tribe  itself  is  almc^st  extinct.  Yet  the  hill  of  the 
P)]ack])ir(l  continues  an  object  of  veneration  to  the 
wandering  savage,  and  a  landmark  to  the  voyager  of 
the  Missouri;  and  as  tlie  civilized  traveller  comes 
within  sight  of  its  spell-bt^und  crest,  the  mound  is 
pointed  out  to  him  from  afar,  which  still  encloses  the 
grim  skeletons  of  the  Indian  warrior  and  his  horse. 


ASTORIA 


151 


CHAPTER    XVII 

While  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  sojourninj:^  at 
the  village  of  the  Oniahas,  three  Sioux  Indians  of  the 
Yankton  Ahna  tril)e  arrived,  bringing  un[)leasant  intel- 
ligence. 'JMiey  reported  that  certain  bands  of  the  Sioux 
Tetons,  who  inhabitcil  a  region  many  leagues  further 
up  the  Missouri,  were  near  at  hand,  awaiting  the  ap- 
proach of  the  party,  with  the  avowed  intention  of 
opposing  their  ])rogress. 

The  Sioux  Tetons  were  at  that  time  a  sort  of  pirates 
of  the  Missouri,  who  considered  the  well-freighted 
bark  of  the  American  trader  fair  game.  They  had 
their  own  traffic  with  the  British  merchants  of  the 
Northwest,  wlio  brought  them  regular  supplies  of  mer- 
chandise by  way  of  the  river  St.  Peter.  I>eing  thus 
independent  of  the  Missouri  traders  for  their  supplies, 
they  kept  no  terms  with  them,  but  jilundered  them 
whenever  tliey  had  an  oppor^^nnity,  Tt  has  been  insinu- 
ated that  they  were  jirompted  to  these  outrages  by  the 
Ih'itish  merchants,  who  wished  to  keep  off  all  rivals  in 
the  Indian  trade;  but  others  allege  another  motive, 
and  one  savoring  of  a  decj^er  policy.  The  Sioux,  by 
their  intercourse  with  the  ])ritish  traders,  had  ac(phred 
the  use  of  fire-arms,  which  had  given  them  vast  sui)e- 
riority  over  other  tribes  higher  up  the  Missouri.  They 
had  made  themselves  also,  in  a  manner,  factors  for  the 
upper  tribes,  supplying  them  at  second  hand,  and  at 
greatly  advanced  prices,  with  goods  derived  from  the 
white  men.  The  vSioux,  therefore,  saw  with  jealousy 
the  American  traders  pushing  their  way  up  the  Mis- 
souri; foreseeing  that  the  ui)])er  tribes  would  thus  be 
relieved  fn^m  all  dependence  on  them  for  supplies; 
nay,  what  was  worse,  would  be  furnished  with  fire- 
arms, and  elevated  into  fcM-midable  rivals. 


■t 


I    1: 


t  ■■  - 


!t  ■'' 


v. 


i=;2 


ASTORIA 


We  have  already  alluded  to  a  case  in  which  Mr. 
Crooks  and  Mr.  MT.ellan  had  hecn  interrupted  in  a 
trading  voyage  by  these  ruffians  of  the  river,  and.  as 
it.  is  in  some  degree  connected  with  circumstances  here- 
after to  be  related,  we  shall  s])ecify  it  more  particularly. 

About  two  years  before  the  time  of  which  we  are 
treating.  Crooks  and  M'I.ellan  were  ascending  the  ri\er 
in  boats  wdth  a  party  of  about  forty  men,  bound  on 
one  of  their  trading  expeditions  to  the  upper  trib'^s.  Tn 
one  of  the  bends  of  the  river,  where  the  channel  made 
a  deep  curve  under  im])en(ling  banks,  they  stiddenly 
heard  yells  and  shouts  above  them,  and  beheld  the  cliffs 
overhead  covered  with  armed  savages.  It  was  a  band 
of  Sioux  warriors,  upwards  of  six  hundred  strong. 
They  brandished  their  weapons  in  a  menacing  man- 
ner, and  ordered  the  boats  to  turn  back  and  land  lower 
down  the  river.  There  was  no  disputing  these  com- 
mands, for  they  had  the  ])owcr  to  shower  destruction 
upon  the  white  men,  without  risk  to  themselves. 
Crooks  and  ATLellan,  therefore,  turned  back  with 
feigned  alacrity;  and,  landing,  had  an  interview  with 
the  vSioux.  The  latter  forbade  them,  under  i)ain  of 
exterminating  hostility,  from  attempting  to  ])rocee(l  u]> 
the  river,  but  offered  to  trade  peacefully  with  them  if 
they  would  halt  where  they  were.  The  party,  being 
])rincipally  com])osed  of  voyageurs,  was  too  weak  to 
contend  with  so  superior  a  force,  and  one  so  easily 
augmented;  they  piTtended.  therefore,  to  comply 
cheerfidly  with  their  arbitrary  dictation,  and  immedi- 
atelv  pnxTeded  to  cut  down  trees  and  erect  a  trading 
house.  Idle  warrior  band  departed  for  their  village, 
which  was  about  twenty  nu'les  distant,  to  collect  ob- 
jects of  traffic;  they  left  six  or  eight  (^f  their  number, 
liowevcr,  to  keep  wr'.tch  up')n  the  white  men.  and  scouts 
were  continuallv  passing  to  and  fro  with  intelligence. 

Mr.  Crooks  saw  th:it  it  would  be  impossible  to  prose- 
cute his  voyage  without  the  danger  of  having  his  boats 


ASTORIA 


^53 


ly 


plundered,  and  a  great  part  of  his  men  massacred :  lie 
detemiined,  however,  not  to  he  entirely  frustrated  in 
the  ol)jects  of  his  expedition.  While  he  continued, 
therefore,  witli  g'reat  apparent  earnestness  and  assidu- 
ity, the  construction  of  the  trading  house,  he  dispatched 
the  hunters  and  trappers  of  his  party  in  a  canoe,  to 
make  tlieir  way  up  the  river  to  the  original  place  of 
<k'stination,  there  to  husy  themselves  in  trapping  an.d 
collecting  peltries,  and  to  await  his  arrival  at  some 
future  period. 

As  soon  as  the  detachment  had  had  sufficient  time  to 
ascend  heyond  the  hostile  country  of  the  Sic^ux.  Mr. 
Crooks  suddenly  hroke  up  his  feigned  trading  estah- 
lishment.  enil)arked  his  men  and  effects,  and,  after  giv- 
ing the  astonished  rear-guard  of  saxagcs  a  galling  and 
indignant  message  to  take  to  their  countrymen,  pushed 
down  the  ri\er  with  aU  speed.  s])aring  neither  oar  nor 
paddle,  day  nor  nigh<,  until  fairly  heyond  the  swoop 
of  these  river  hawks. 

What  increased  the  irritation  of  Messrs.  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan  at  this  mortifying  check  to  their  gainful  en- 
terprise, was  the  information  that  a  rival  trader  was  at 
the  hottom  of  it;  the  Sioux,  it  is  said,  having  heen 
instigated  to  this  outrage  hy  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  the  lead- 
ing ])artner  and  agen<  of  the  Missouri  h^ur  Compau}'. 
already  mentioned.  'Hiis  intelligence,  whether  true  or 
false,  so  roused  the  fiery  temper  of  M'Lellan.  that  he 
swore,  if  ever  he  fell  in  with  Lisa  in  the  Indian  coun- 
try, he  would  shoot  him  on  the  spot ;  a  mode  of  redress 
])erfectly  in  unison  with  the  character  of  the  man,  and 
the  code  of  honor  prevalent  heyond  the  frontier. 

If  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had  l)een  exasi)erated  hy  the 
insolent  conduct  of  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and  the  loss 
which  it  had  occasioned,  those  frcehooters  had  heen 
no  less  indignant  at  ])eing  outwitted  hy  the  white  men. 
and  disappointed  of  their  anticipated  gains,  and  it  was 
apprehended  they  would  he  particularly  hostile  against 


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the  ])rcscMit  expedition,  when  lliey  should  learn  that 
these  ^^entlenien  were  engai^ed  in  it. 

All  these  causes  of  uneasiness  were  concealed  as 
much  as  ])ossil)le  from  the  Canadian  voya.ei'curs,  lest 
they  should  become  intimidated;  it  was  impossible, 
however,  to  prevent  the  rumors  l)roui;"ht  by  the  India'is 
from  leaking-  out,  and  they  became  subjects  of  gossip- 
ing and  exaggeration.  Hie  chief  of  the  Omahas,  too, 
on  returning  from  a  hunting  excursion,  re])orte(l  that 
two  men  had  been  killed  some  distance  above,  by  a 
band  of  Sioux.  This  added  to  the  fears  that  already 
began  to  be  excited.  The  voyageurs  pictured  to  them- 
selves bands  of  fierce  warriors  stationed  along  each 
bank  of  the  river,  by  whom  they  would  be  exposed  to 
be  shot  down  in  their  boats:  or  hu'king  hordes,  who 
would  set  on  them  at  night,  and  massacre  them  in  their 
encami)ments.  Some  lost  heart,  and  proposed  to  re- 
turn, rather  than  Tight  their  way.  and,  in  a  manner,  run 
the  gauntlet  througli  the  country  of  these  piratical 
marauders.  In  fact,  tliree  men  deserted  while  at  this 
viliage.  Luckily,  their  place  was  supplied  by  three 
others  who  happened  to  be  there,  and  who  were  j)re- 
vailed  on  to  join  the  expedition  by  promises  of  liberal 
pay.  and  by  being  fitted  out  and  equipped  in  complete 
style. 

The  irresolution  and  discontent  visible  among  some 
of  his  people,  arising  at  times  almost  to  mutiny,  and 
the  occasional  desertions  which  t(^ok  i)lace  while  thus 
among  friendly  tribes,  and  within  reach  of  tlie  fron- 
tiers, added  greatly  to  the  anxieties  of  Mr.  Hunt,  and 
rendered  him  eager  to  prc.:s  forw  ard  and  leave  a  hostile 
tract  behind  him,  so  that  it  w^ould  be  as  perihms  to 
return  as  to  keep  on,  and  no  one  would  dare  to  desert. 

Accordingly,  (mi  the  r 5th  of  May  he  departed  from 
the  village  of  the  Omahas,  and  set  forward  towards 
the  country  of  the  fo'"midable  Sioux  Tetons.  {''or  the 
first  five  days  they  had  a  fair  and  fresh  breeze,  and  the 


ASTORIA 


155 


boats  made  good  progress.  The  wind  then  canic  ahead, 
and  tlie  river  beginning  to  rise,  and  to  int-ease  in  ra- 
|)i(hty,  betokened  the  eommencenient  of  the  annnal 
tlood,  cansed  by  the  mehing  of  tlie  snow  on  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  tlie  vernal  rains  of  tiie  up[)er  prairies. 

As  they  were  now  entering  a  region  where  foes 
might  be  lying  in  wait  on  either  bank,  it  was  deter- 
mined, in  hunting  for  game,  to  confnie  themselves 
principally  to  the  islands,  which  sometimes  extend  to 
considerable  length,  and  are  beautifully  wooded,  af- 
fording abundant  pasturage  and  shade.  On  one  of 
these  they  killed  three  Iniffaloes  and  two  elks,  and  halt- 
ing on  the  Q(\i^e  of  a  beautiful  prairie,  made  a  sumptu- 
ous hunter's  repast.  'J'hey  had  not  long  resumed  their 
boats  and  ])ul1«d  along  the  river  banks  when  they  de- 
scried a  canoe  approaching,  navigated  by  two  men. 
whom,  to  their  surprise,  they  ascertained  to  be  white 
men.  They  proved  to  be  two  of  those  strange  and 
fearless  wanderers  of  the  wilderness,  the  trappers. 
Their  names  were  Benjamin  Jones  and  Alexander 
Carson.  They  had  beer;  for  two  years  ])ast  hunting 
and  trap]")ing  near  the  head  of  the  Missouri,  and  were 
thus  iloating  for  thousands  of  miles  in  a  cockle-shell, 
down  a  turbulent  stream,  through  regions  infested  by 
savage  tribes,  yet  apparently  as  easy  and  unconcerned 
as  if  navigating  securely  in  the  midst  of  civilization. 

The  ac(|uisiti(^n  of  two  such  hardy,  experienced,  and 
dauntless  hunters  was  peculiarly  desirable  at  the  pres- 
ent moment.  Hiey  needed  but  little  j)ersuasion.  The 
wilderness  is  the  home  of  the  trapper;  like  the  sailor, 
he  cares  but  little  -o  which  point  of  the  conij^ass  he 
steers;  and  Jones  and  Carson  readily  abandoned  ilieir 
voyage  to  St.  Louis,  and  turned  their  faces  towards 
the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific. 

The  two  naturalists.  Mr.  Rradbury  and  Mr.  Nuttall, 
who  had  joined  the  expedition  at  St.  I.ouis.  still  accom- 
panied it,  and  pursued  their  researches  on  all  occasions. 


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ASTORIA 


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Mr.  Xuttall  seems  to  have  been  exclusively  devoted  to 
his  scientific  pursuits.  He  was  a  zealous  botanist,  and 
all  his  enthusiasm  was  awakened  at  beholdin^i:^  a  new 
world,  as  it  were,  opening  upon  him  in  the  boundless 
prairies,  clad  in  tlie  vernal  and  variegated  robe  of  un- 
known flowers.  Whenever  the  boats  landed  at  meal 
times,  or  for  any  temporary  purpose,  he  would  spring 
on  shore,  and  set  out  on  a  liunt  for  new  specimens. 
Every  plant  or  flower  of  a  rare  or  unknown  species 
was  eagerly  seized  as  a  prize.  Delighted  with  the 
treasures  s[)reading  themselves  out  before  him,  he 
went  groping  and  stumbling  along  among  the  wilder- 
ness of  sweets,  forgetful  of  everything  but  his  immedi- 
ate pursuit,  and  had  often  to  be  sought  after  when  the 
boats  were  about  to  resume  thei-  course.  At  such 
times  he  woidd  be  found  far  off  in  the  prairies,  or  up 
the  course  of  some  petty  stream,  laden  with  plants  of 
all  kinds. 

The  Canadian  voyageurs,  who  are  a  class  of  people 
that  know  nothing  out  of  their  immediate  line,  and 
with  constitutional  levity  make  a  jest  of  anything  they 
cannot  understand,  were  extremely  puzzled  l)y  this 
passion  for  collecting  what  they  considered  mere  use- 
less weeds.  When  they  saw  the  worthy  botanist  com- 
ing back  heavy  laden  with  his  specimens,  and  treasur- 
ing them  up  as  carefully  as  a  miser  would  his  hoard, 
they  used  to  make  merry  among  themselves  at  his  ex- 
])ense,  regarding  him  as  some  whimsical  kind  of 
madman. 

Mr.  Bradbury  was  less  exclusive  in  his  tastes  and 
habits,  and  combined  the  hunter  and  sportsman  with 
the  naturalist.  He  took  his  rifle  or  his  fowling-piece 
with  him  in  his  geological  researches,  conformed  to  the 
hardy  and  rugged  habits  of  the  men  around  l.:m,  and 
of  course  gained  favor  in  their  eyes.  He  had  a  strong 
relish  for  incident  and  adventure,  was  curious  in  ob- 
serving savage  manners,  and  savage  life,  and   ready 


ASTORIA 


157 


to  join  any  luinting"  or  other  excursion.  Even  now, 
that  the  exi)e(lition  was  proceeding  through  a  danger- 
ous neighhorhood.  he  could  not  ciieck  liis  propensity 
to  ranihle.  Having  ohserved.  on  tiie  evening  of  the 
22(1  of  May.  that  tlie  river  ahead  made  a  great  hend 
which  would  take  up  the  navigation  of  the  following 
day,  he  determined  to  profit  hy  the  circumstance.  C^n 
the  morning  of  the  23(1,  therefore,  instead  of  emhark- 
ing,  he  filled  his  shot-pouch  with  parched  corn,  for  pro- 
visions, and  set  off  to  cross  the  neck  on  foot  and  meet 
tiie  hoats  in  the  afternoon  at  the  opposite  side  of  the 
liend.  Mr.  Hunt  felt  uneasy  at  his  venturing  thus  ah^ne, 
and  reminded  him  that  he  was  in  an  enemy's  country; 
hut  Mr.  Bradhury  made  light  of  the  danger,  and  started 
off  cheerily  upon  his  ramhle.  liis  day  was  passed 
pleasantly  in  traversing  a  heautiful  tract,  making  ho- 
tanical  and  geological  researches,  and  ohserving  the 
hahits  of  an  extensive  village  of  prairie  dogs,  at  which 
he  made  several  ineffectual  shots,  without  considering 
the  risk  he  run  of  attracting  the  attention  of  any  sav- 
ages that  might  he  lurking  in  tlie  neighhorhood.  in 
fact  he  had  totally  forgotten  the  Sioux  Tetons,  and  all 
the  other  ])erils  of  the  country,  when,  ahout  the  middle 
of  the  afternoon,  as  he  stood  near  the  river  hank,  and 
was  looking  out  for  the  hoat,  he  suddenly  felt  a  hand 
laid  on  his  shoulder.  Starting  and  turning  round,  he 
helield  a  n.aked  sa\age  w  ith  a  how  hent,  and  the  arrow 
pointed  at  his  hreast.  In  an  instant  his  gun  was  levelled 
and  his  hand  upon  the  lock.  The  Indian  drew  his  how 
still  furtlier.  hut  forhorc  to  launch  the  shaft.  I\Ir. 
IhT.dhury,  with  adnii.ahle  presence  of  mind,  retlected 
that  the  savnge,  if  hostile  in  his  intents,  would  have 
shot  him  without  giving  him  a  chance  of  defence;  he 
paused,  therefore,  and  held  out  his  hand.  The  other 
took  it  in  sign  of  friendshii).  and  demanded  in  the 
Osage  language  w  hethcr  he  was  a  Big  Knife,  or  Ameri- 
can,     lie   answered    in   the  affirmative,   and   incpiired 


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158 


ASTORIA 


whether  the  other  were  a  Sioux.  To  his  p^rcat  reliel 
he  found  tliat  he  was  a  Ponca.  I)y  this  time  two  other 
Indians  came  runnin^^  uj),  and  all  three  hiid  hold  of 
Mr.  Bradbury  and  seemed  disposed  to  comi)el  him  to 
^o  off  with  them  anionic  the  hills.  He  resisted,  and 
sitting  down  on  a  sandhill  contrived  to  amuse  them 
with  a  pocket  compass.  When  the  novelty  of  this  was 
exhausted  they  again  seized  him,  but  he  now  produced 
a  small  microscope.  This  new  wonder  again  hxed  the 
attention  of  the  savages,  who  have  more  curiosity  than 
it  has  been  the  custom  to  allow  them.  While  thus 
engaged,  one  of  them  suddenly  leaped  up  and  gave 
a  war-whoop.  The  hand  of  the  hardy  naturalist  was 
again  on  his  gun,  and  he  was  ])repared  to  make  battle, 
when  the  Indian  pointed  down  the  river  and  revealed 
the  true  cause  of  his  yell.  It  was  the  mast  of  one  of 
the  boats  appearing  al)ove  the  low  willows  which  bor- 
dered the  stream.  Air.  Bradburv  felt  infinitelv  relieved 
by  the  sight.  The  Indians  on  their  part  now  showed 
signs  of  apprehension,  and  were  disposed  to  run  away; 
but  he  assured  them  of  good  treatment  and  something 
to  drink  if  they  would  accompany  him  on  board  of  tlie 
boats.  They  lingered  for  a  time,  but  disappeared  be- 
fore the  boats  came  to  land. 

On  the  following  morning  they  ajipeared  at  camp 
accompanied  by  several  of  their  tribe.  With  them 
came  also  a  white  man,  who  announced  himself  as  a 
messenger  bearing  missives  for  Mr.  Hunt.  In  fact  he 
brought  a  letter  from  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  partner  and 
agent  of  the  Missouri  \'\\r  Comi)any.  As  has  already 
been  mentioned,  this  gentleman  was  going  in  search 
of  Mr.  Henry  and  his  ])arty,  who  had  been  dislodged 
from  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  by  the  Blackfeet  In- 
dians, and  had  shifted  his  ]iost  somewhere  beyond  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Mr.  Lisa  had  left  St.  Louis  three 
weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt,  and  having  heard  of  the  hostile 
intentions  of  the  Sioux,  had  made  the  greatest  exer- 


ASTORIA 


159 


the 
je- 


tlic 
rce 
tile 
■cer- 


tions  to  overtake  liim.  tliat  they  miq^ht  pass  throuj^^h  the 
(lanj^erous  part  of  the  river  toj^ether.  He  had  twenty 
stout  oarsmen  in  his  service  and  they  phed  their  oars 
so  vig'orously,  that  he  liad  reached  the  Omaha  villaj^-e 
just  four  days  after  tlie  departure  of  Mr.  I  lunt.  h'rom 
this  phice  he  (hspatched  the  messeng^er  in  ((uestion. 
trusting  to  his  overlakint^  the  barges  as  they  toiled  up 
against  the  stream,  and  were  delayed  hy  the  windings 
of  the  river.  The  j)ur])ort  of  liis  letter  was  to  entreat 
Mr.  Hunt  to  wait  until  he  could  come  up  with  him.  that 
they  might  unite  their  forces  and  be  a  protection  to 
each  other  in  their  perilous  course  through  the  country 
of  the  Sioux.  In  fact,  as  it  was  afterwards  ascertained. 
Lisa  was  apprehen>:,.\e  that  Mr.  Hunt  would  do  him 
some  ill  office  with  the  Sioux  l)an(ls.  securing  his  own 
passage  through  their  country  by  pretending  that  he, 
with  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  trade,  was  on  his 
way  to  them  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  goods.  He 
feared,  too,  that  Crooks  and  M'I.ellan  would  take  this 
opj)ortunity  to  retort  up(jn  him  the  perfidy  which  they 
accused  him  of  having  used,  two  years  previously, 
among  these  very  Sioux.  In  this  respect,  however,  he 
did  them  signal  injustice.  There  was  no  such  thing 
as  covert  design  or  treachery  in  their  thouglit;  but 
M'Lellan,  when  he  heard  that  Lisa  was  on  his  way  up 
the  river,  renewed  his  open  threat  of  shooting  him  the 
moment  he  met  him  on  Indian  land. 

The  representations  made  by  Crooks  and  M'Lellan 
of  the  treachery  they  had  experienced,  or  fancied,  on 
the  part  of  Lisa,  had  great  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt, 
especially  when  he  recollected  the  obstacles  that  had 
been  thrown  in  his  own  way  by  that  gentleman  at  St. 
Louis.  He  doubted,  therefore,  the  fair  dealing  of  Lisa, 
and  feared  that,  should  they  enter  the  Sioux  country 
together,  the  latter  might  make  use  of  his  influence 
with  that  tribe,  as  he  had  in  the  case  of  Crooks  and 
M'Lellan,  and  instigate  them  to  oppose  his  progress 
up  the  river. 


■i 


i6o 


ASTORIA 


Me  sent  back,  therefore,  an  answer  calcilated  to 
beguile  Lisa,  assuring  him  that  he  would  wait  for  him 
at  the  I'oncas  village,  which  was  but  a  little  distance 
in  advance  ;  but,  no  sooner  had  the  messenger  departed, 
than  he  pushed  forward  with  all  diligence,  barely  stop- 
ping at  the  village  to  procure  a  supply  of  dried  buffalo 
meat,  and  hastening  to  leave  the  other  party  as  far 
behind  as  i)ossil)le,  ihinking  there  was  less  to  be  api)re- 
hended  from  the  ()])en  hostility  of  Indian  foes,  than 
from  the  quiet  sl.ategy  of  an  Indian  trader. 


Nf 


f   ' 

H  -J 

CHAPTER    XVIII 

It  was  about  noon  when  the  party  left  the  Poncas  vil- 
lage, about  a  league  beyond  which  they  ])assed  the 
mouth  of  the  Ouicourt.  or  Rapid  River  (called,  in  the 
original  b'rench,  rEaii  Qui  Court).  After  having  pro- 
ceeded some  distance  further,  they  landed,  and  en- 
cami)ed  for  the  night.  In  the  evening  camp,  the  voy- 
ageurs  gossiped,  as  usual,  over  the  events  of  the  day; 
and  especially  over  intelligence  picked  up  among  the 
Poncas.  These  Indians  had  confirmed  the  previous 
reports  of  the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Sioux,  and  had 
assured  them  that  five  tribes,  or  bands,  of  that  fierce 
nation  were  actually  asseml)led  higher  up  the  river,  and 
waiting  to  cut  them  off.  This  evening  gossip,  and  tlie 
terrific  stories  of  Indian  warfare  to  which  it  gave  rise, 
produced  a  strong  effect  upon  the  imaginations  of  the 
irresolute;  and  in  the  morning  it  was  discovered  that 
the  two  men,  who  had  joined  the  party  at  the  Omaha 
village,  and  been  so  bounteously  fitted  out,  had  de- 
serted in  the  course  of  the  night,  carrying  with  them 
all  their  ecpiipments.  As  it  was  known  that  one  of 
them  could  not  swim,  it  was  hoped  that  the  banks  of 
the  Ouicourt  River  would  bring  them  to  a  halt.     A 


ASTORIA 


i6i 


he 
lint 
Im 
lie- 
Mil 
lof 
lof 
A 


p^cneral  pursuit  was  tlicrcforc  instituted,  but  without 
success. 

On  tile  following  morning  (Alay  26th),  as  they 
were  all  on  shore,  breakfasting  on  one  of  the  beautiful 
banks  of  the  river,  they  observed  two  canoes  descend- 
ing along  the  oi)i)osite  side.  By  the  aid  of  s[)y-glasses, 
they  ascertained  that  there  were  two  white  men  in  one 
of  the  canoes,  and  one  in  the  other.  A  gun  was  dis- 
charged, which  called  the  attention  of  the  voyageurs, 
who  crossed  over.  They  proved  to  be  three  Kentucky 
hunters,  of  the  true  "  dreadnought  "  stamp.  Their 
names  were  Kdward  Robinson,  John  Iloback,  and  Ja- 
cob Rizner.  Robinson  was  a  veteran  backwoodsman, 
sixty-six  years  of  age.  He  had  been  one  of  the  first 
settlers  of  Kentucky,  and  engaged  in  many  of  the  con- 
flicts of  the  Indians  on  "  the  Woody  Ground."  In 
one  of  these  bailies  he  had  been  scalped,  ami  he  still 
wore  a  handkerchief  bound  round  his  head  to  protect 
the  part.  These  men  bad  passed  several  years  in  the 
upi)er  wilderness.  They  had  been  in  the  service  of  the 
Missouri  Company  under  Mr.  Henry,  and  had  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountains  with  him  in  the  preceding  year, 
when  driven  fioni  his  post  on  the  Alissouri  by  the 
hostilities  of  the  Black  feet.  After  crossing  the  moun- 
tains Mr.  Henry  had  established  himself  on  one  of 
the  head  branches  of  the  Columbia  River.  Tliere  ihey 
had  remained  with  him  for  some  months,  hunling  and 
trapping,  until.  ha\';!g  satisfied  their  wandering  i)ro- 
pensilies,  they  felt  disposed  to  return  to  the  families 
and  coiiiforta1)le  homes  which  they  had  left  in  Ken- 
tucky. They  had  accordingly  made  their  way  back 
across  the  mountains,  and  down  the  rivers,  and  were 
in  full  career  for  St.  Louis,  when  thus  suddenly  inter- 
rupted. The  sight  of  a  powerful  party  of  traders, 
trap])ers,  hunters,  and  voyageurs,  well  armed  and 
equipped,  furnished  at  all  points,  in  higli  heaUh  and 
spirits,   and  banqueting   lustily   on   the   green   margin 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WkS:  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  losSO 

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ASTORIA 


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of  the  river,  was  a  spectacle  equally  stimulating  to 
these  veteran  backwoodsmen  with  the  glorious  array 
of  a  campaigning  army  to  an  old  soldier;  but  when 
they  learned  the  grand  scope  and  extent  of  the  enter- 
prise in  hand,  it  was  irresistible;  homes  and  families 
and  all  the  charms  of  green  Kentucky  vanished  from 
their  thoughts;  they  cast  loose  their  canoes  to  drift 
down  the  stream,  and  joyfully  enlisted  in  the  band  of 
adventurers.  They  engaged  on  similar  terms  with 
some  of  the  other  hunters.  The  company  was  to  fit 
them  out,  and  keep  them  supplied  with  the  requisite 
equipments  and  munitions,  and  they  were  to  yield  one 
half  of  the  produce  of  their  hunting  and  trapping. 

The  addition  of  three  such  stanch  recruits  was  ex- 
tremely acceptable  at  this  dangerous  part  of  the  river. 
The  knowledge  of  the  country  which  they  had  acquired, 
also,  in  their  journeys  and  hunting  excursions  along 
the  rivers  and  among  the  Rocky  Mountains  was  all 
important ;  in  fact,  the  information  derived  from  them 
induced  Mr.  Hunt  to  alter  his  future  course.  He  had 
hitherto  intended  to  proceed  by  the  route  taken  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke  in  their  famous  exploring  expedi- 
tion, ascending  the  Missouri  to  its  forks,  and  thence 
going,  by  land,  across  the  mountains.  These  men  in- 
formed him,  however,  that,  on  taking  that  course  he 
would  have  to  pass  through  the  country  invested  by 
the  savage  tribe  of  the  Black  feet,  and  would  be  ex- 
posed to  their  hostilities;  they  being,  as  has  already 
been  observed,  exasperated  to  deadly  animosity  against 
the  whites,  on  account  of  the  death  of  one  of  their 
tribe  by  the  hand  of  Captain  Lewis.  They  advised 
him  rather  to  pursue  a  route  more  to  the  southward, 
being  the  same  by  which  they  had  returned.  This 
would  carry  them  over  the  mountains  about  where  the 
head  waters  of  the  Platte  and  the  Yellowstone  take 
their  rise,  at  a  place  much  more  easy  and  practicable 
than  that  where  Lewis  and  Clarke  had  crossed.     In 


ASTORIA 


163 


had 

by 

)edi- 


in- 
he 
by 
ex- 
leady 
lainst 
Itheir 
dsed 
rard, 
iThis 
the 
itake 
:able 
In 


pursuing  this  course,  also,  he  would  pass  through  a 
country  abounding  with  game,  where  he  would  have 
a  better  chance  of  procuring  a  constant  supply  of 
provisions  than  by  the  other  route,  and  would  run  less 
risk  of  molestation  from  the  Blackfeet.  Should  he 
adopt  this  advice,  it  would  be  better  for  him  to  aban- 
don the  river  at  the  Arickara  town,  at  which  he  would 
arrive  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.  As  the  Indians  at 
that  town  possessed  horses  in  abundance,  he  might 
purchase  a  sufficient  number  of  them  for  his  great 
journey  overland,  which  would  commence  at  that 
place. 

.After  reflecting  on  this  advice,  and  consulting  with 
his  associates,  Mr.  Hunt  came  to  the  determination  to 
follow  the  route  thus  pointed  out,  in  which  the  hunters 
engaged  to  pilot  him. 

The  party  continued  their  voyage  with  delightful 
May  weather.  The  prairies  bordering  on  the  river 
were  gayly  painted  with  innumerable  flowers,  exhibit- 
ing the  motley  confusion  of  colors  of  a  Turkey  carpet. 
The  beautiful  islands,  also,  on  which  they  occasionally 
halted,  presented  the  appearance  of  mingled  grove  and 
garden.  The  trees  were  often  covered  with  clambering 
grape-vines  in  blossom,  which  perfumed  the  air.  Be- 
tween the  stately  masses  of  the  groves  were  grassy 
lawns  and  glades,  studded  with  flowers,  or  inter- 
spersed with  rose-bushes  in  full  bloom.  These  islands 
were  often  the  resort  of  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  and  the 
antelope,  who  had  made  innumerable  paths  among  the 
trees  and  thickets,  which  had  the  effect  of  the  mazy 
walks  and  alleys  of  parks  and  shrubberies.  Sometimes, 
where  the  river  passed  between  high  banks  and  bluffs, 
the  roads,  made  by  the  tramp  of  buffaloes  for  many 
ages  along  the  face  of  the  heights,  looked  like  so  many 
well-travelled  highways.  At  other  places  the  banks 
were  banded  with  great  veins  of  iron  ore,  laid  bare  by 
the  abrasion  of  the  river.     At  one  place  the  course  of 


'i 


1 


;l 


t,   ' 


i' 


i  if 

m 


164 


ASTORIA 


the  river  was  nearly  in  a  straight  line  for  about  fifteen 
miles.  The  banks  sloped  gently  to  its  margin,  without 
a  single  tree,  but  bordered  with  grass  and  herbage  of 
a  vivid  green.  Along  each  bank,  for  the  whole  fifteen 
miles,  extended  a  stripe,  one  hundred  yards  in  breadth, 
of  a  deep  rusty  brown,  indicating  an  inexhaustible  bed 
of  iron,  through  the  centre  of  which  the  Missouri  had 
worn  its  way.  Indications  of  the  continuance  of  this 
bed  were  afterwards  observed  higher  up  the  river. 
It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  mineral  magazines  which  na- 
ture has  provided  in  the  heart  of  this  vast  realm  of 
fertility,  and  which,  in  connection  with  the  immense 
beds  of  coal  on  the  same  river,  seem  garnered  up  as 
the  elements  of  the  future  wealth  and  power  of  the 
mighty  West. 

The  sight  of  these  mineral  treasures  greatly  ex- 
cited the  curiosity  of  Mr.  Bradbury,  and  it  was  tanta- 
lizing to  him  to  be  checked  in  his  scientific  researches, 
and  obliged  to  forego  his  usual  rambles  on  shore;  but 
they  were  now  entering  the  fated  country  of  the  Sioux 
Tetons,  in  which  it  was  dangerous  to  wander  about 
unguarded. 

This  country  extends  for  some  days'  journey  along 
the  river,  and  consists  of  vast  prairies,  here  and  there 
diversified  by  swelling  hills,  and  cut  up  by  ravines,  the 
channels  of  turbid  streams  in  the  rainy  seasons,  but 
almost  destitute  of  water  during  the  heats  of  summer. 
Here  and  there  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  or  along  the 
alluvial  borders  and  bottoms  of  the  ravines,  are  groves 
and  skirts  of  forest ;  but  for  the  most  part  the  country 
presented  to  the  eye  a  boundless  waste,  covered  with 
herbage,  but  without  trees. 

The  soil  of  this  immense  region  is  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur,  copperas,  alum,  and  glauber  salts ; 
its  various  earths  impart  a  deep  tinge  to  the  streams 
which  drain  it,  and  these,  with  the  crumbling  of  the 
banks  along  the  Missouri,  give  to  the  waters  of  that 


ASTORIA 


165 


preg- 
Isalts ; 
leams 
If  the 
that 


river  much  of  the  coloring  matter  with  which  they  are 
clouded. 

Over  this  vast  tract  the  roving  bands  of  the  Sioux 
Tetons  hold  their  vagrant  sway,  subsisting  by  the  chase 
of  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  and 
waging  ruthless  warfare  with  other  wandering  tribes. 

As  the  boats  made  their  way  up  the  stream  bordered 
by  this  land  of  danger,  many  of  the  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  whose  fears  had  been  awakened,  would  regard 
with  a  distrustful  eye  the  boundless  waste  extending 
on  each  side.  All,  however,  was  silent,  and  apparently 
untenanted  by  a  human  being.  Now  and  then  a  herd 
of  deer  would  be  seen  feeding  tranquilly  among  the 
flowery  herbage,  or  a  line  of  buffaloes,  like  a  caravan 
on  its  march,  moving  across  the  distant  profile  of  the 
prairie.  The  Canadians,  however,  began  to  apprehend 
an  ambush  in  every  thicket,  and  to  regard  the  broad, 
tranquil  plain  as  a  sailor  eyes  some  shallow  and  per- 
fidious sea,  which,  though  smooth  and  safe  to  the 
eye,  conceals  the  lurking  rock  or  treacherous  shoal. 
The  very  name  of  a  Sioux  became  a  watchword  of 
terror.  Not  an  elk,  a  wolf,  or  any  other  animal,  could 
appear  on  the  hills,  but  the  boats  resounded  with  excla- 
mations from  stem  to  stern,  ^' voila  les  Sioux!  voila 
Ics  Sioux!"  (there  are  the  Sioux!  there  are  the 
Sioux!)  Whenever  it  was  practicable,  the  night  en- 
campment was  on  some  island  in  the  centre  of  the 
stream. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  May,  as  the  travellers 
were  breakfasting  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the 
usual  alarni  was  given,  but  with  more  reason,  as  two 
Indians  actually  made  their  appearance  on  a  bluff  on 
the  opposite  or  northeast  side,  and  harangued  them  in 
a  loud  voice.  As  it  was  impossible  at  that  distance  to 
distinguish  what  they  said,  Mr.  Hunt,  after  breakfast, 
crossed  the  river  with  Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter, 
and  advanced  boldly  to  converse  with  them,  while  the 


H    :•! 


:'>         I  'i 


0   -trj 


p\ 


1 66 


ASTORIA 


-:•■:, 
J' 

I'    ' 
■■'■  ' 

m 


m 


rest  remained  watching  in  mute  suspense  the  move- 
ments of  the  parties.  As  soon  as  Mr.  Hunt  landed,  one 
of  the  Indians  disappeared  behind  the  hill,  but  shortly 
reappeared  on  horseback,  and  went  scouring  off  across 
the  heights.  Mr.  Hunt  held  some  conference  with  the 
remaining  savage,  and  then  recrossed  the  river  to  his 
party. 

These  two  Indians  proved  to  be  spies  or  scouts  of  a 
large  war  party  encamped  about  a  league  off,  and  num- 
bering two  hundred  and  eighty  lodges,  or  about  six 
hundred  warriors,  of  three  different  tribes  of  Sioux; 
the  Yangtons  Ahna,  the  Tetons  Bois-brule,  and  the 
Tetons  Min-na-kine-azzo.  They  expected  daily  to  be 
reinforced  by  two  other  tribes,  and  had  been  waiting 
eleven  days  for  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  with 
a  determination  to  oppose  their  progress  up  the  river; 
being  resolved  to  prevent  all  trade  of  the  white  men 
with  their  enemies  the  Arickaras,  Mandans,  and  Mina- 
tarees.  The  Indian  who  had  galloped  off  on  horseback 
had  gone  to  give  notice  of  the  approach  of  the  party, 
so  that  they  might  now  look  out  for  some  fierce  scenes 
with  those  piratical  savages,  of  whom  they  had  re- 
ceived so  many  formidable  accounts. 

The  party  braced  up  their  spirits  to  the  encounter, 
and  reembarking,  pulled  resolutely  up  the  stream.  An 
island  for  some  time  intervened  between  them  and  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river;  but  on  clearing  the  upper 
end,  they  came  in  full  view  of  the  hostile  shore.  There 
was  a  ridge  of  hills  down  which  the  savages  were  pour- 
ing in  great  numbers,  some  on  horseback,  and  some  on 
foot.  Reconnoitring  them  with  the  aid  of  glasses, 
they  perceived  that  they  were  all  in  warlike  array, 
painted  and  decorated  for  battle.  Their  weapons  were 
bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few  short  carbines,  and  most 
of  them  had  round  shields.  Altogether  they  had  a 
wild  and  gallant  appearance,  and,  taking  possession 
of  a  point  which  commanded  the  river,  ranged  them- 


ASTORIA 


167 


inter, 
\n 
d  the 
.ipper 
iiere 
pour- 
he  on 
,sses, 
rray, 
were 
most 
lad  a 
[ssion 
Ihem- 


selves  along  the  bank  as  if  prepared  to  dispute  their 
passage. 

At  sight  of  this  formidable  front  of  war,  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  held  counsel  together.  It  was  plain 
that  the  rumors  they  had  heard  were  correct,  and  the 
Sioux  were  determined  to  oppose  their  progress  by 
force  of  arms.  To  attempt  to  elude  them  and  con- 
tinue along  the  river  was  out  of  the  question.  The 
strength  of  the  mid-current  was  too  violent  to  be  with- 
stood, and  the  boats  were  obliged  to  ascend  along  the 
river  banks.  These  banks  were  often  high  and  per- 
pendicular, affording  the  savages  frequent  stations, 
from  whence,  safe  themselves,  and  almost  unseen,  they 
might  shower  down  their  missiles  upon  the  boats  be- 
low, and  retreat  at  will,  without  danger  from  pursuit. 
Nothing  apparently  remained,  therefore,  but  to  fight  or 
turn  back.  The  Sioux  far  outnumbered  them,  it  is  true, 
but  their  own  party  was  about  sixty  strong,  well  armed 
and  supplied  with  ammunition ;  and,  beside  their  guns 
and  rifles,  they  had  a  swivel  and  two  howitzers  mounted 
in  the  boats.  Should  they  succeed  in  breaking  this  In- 
dian force  by  one  vigorous  assault,  it  was  likely  they 
would  be  deterred  from  making  any  future  attack  of 
consequence.  The  fighting  alternative  was,  therefore, 
instantly  adopted,  and  the  boats  pulled  to  shore  nearly 
opposite  to  the  hostile  force.  Here  the  arms  were  all 
examined  and  put  in  order.  The  swivel  and  howitzers 
were  then  loaded  with  powder  and  discharged,  to  let 
the  savages  know  by  the  report  how  formidably  they 
were  provided.  The  noise  echoed  along  the  shores  of 
the  river,  and  must  have  startled  the  warriors,  who 
were  only  accustomed  to  sharp  reports  of  rifles.  The 
same  pieces  were  then  loaded  with  as  many  bullets  as 
they  would  probably  bear ;  after  which  the  whole  party 
embarked,  and  pulled  across  the  river.  The  Indians  re- 
mained watching  them  in  silence,  their  painted  forms 
and  visages  glaring  in  the  sun,  and  their  feathers  flut- 


:) 

i 


ITr 


1 68 


ASTORIA 


tering  in  the  breeze.  The  poor  Canadians  eyed  them 
with  rueful  glances,  and  now  and  then  a  fearful  ejacu- 
lation escaped  them.  "  Parbleu !  this  is  a  sad  scrape 
we  are  in,  brother!  "  one  would  mutter  to  the  next  oars- 
man. **  Aye,  aye!"  the  other  would  reply,  ''we  are 
not  going  to  a  wedding,  my  friend !  " 

When  the  boats  arrived  within  ritle-shot,  the  hunters 
and  other  fighting  personages  on  board  seized  their 
weapons,  and  prepared  for  action.  As  they  rose  to 
fire,  a  confusion  took  place  among  the  savages.  They 
displayed  their  buffalo  robes,  raised  them  with  both 
hands  above  their  heads,  and  then  spread  them  before 
them  on  the  ground.  At  sight  of  this,  Pierre  Dorion 
eagerly  cried  out  to  the  party  not  to  fire,  as  this  move- 
ment was  a  peaceful  signal,  and  an  invitation  to  a 
parley.  Immediately  about  a  dozen  of  the  principal 
warriors,  separating  from  the  rest,  descended  to  the 
edge  of  the  river,  lighted  a  fire,  seated  themselves  in  a 
semicircle  round  it,  and,  displaying  the  calumet,  invited 
the  party  to  land.  Mr.  Hunt  now  called  a  council  of 
the  partners  on  board  of  his  boat.  The  question  was, 
whether  to  trust  to  the  amicable  overtures  of  these 
ferocious  people?  It  was  determined  in  the  affirma- 
tive ;  for,  otherwise,  there  was  no  alternative  but  to 
fight  them.  The  main  body  of  the  party  were  ordered 
to  remain  on  board  of  the  boats,  keeping  within  shot 
and  prepared  to  fire  in  case  of  any  signs  of  treachery ; 
while  Mr.  Hunt  and  the  other  partners  (M'Kenzie, 
Crooks,  Miller,  and  M'Lellan)  proceeded  to  land,  ac- 
companied by  the  interpreter  and  Mr.  Bradbury.  The 
chiefs,  who  awaited  them  on  the  margin  of  the  river, 
remained  seated  in  their  semicircle,  without  stirring  a 
limb  or  moving  a  muscle,  motionless  as  so  many 
statues.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  advanced  with- 
out hesitation,  and  took  their  seats  on  the  sand  so  as 
to  complete  the  circle.  The  band  of  warriors  who 
lined  the  banks  above  stood  looking  down  in  silent 


ASTORIA 


169 


hem 
lacu- 
rape 
3ars- 
;  are 

nters 
their 
se  to 
They 
both 
efore 
orion 
iiove- 
to  a 
ncipal 
;o  the 
s  in  a 
ivited 
icil  of 
was, 
these 
rma- 
ut  to 
dered 
shot 
hery ; 
nzie, 
ac- 
The 
Iriver, 
ling  a 
nany 
Iwith- 
Iso  as 
who 
jilent 


groups  and  dusters,  some  ostentatiously  equipped  and 
decorated,  others  entirely  naked,  hut  fantastically 
painted,  and  all  variously  armed. 

The  pipe  of  peace  was  now  brought  forward  with 
due  ceremony.  The  bowl  was  of  a  species  of  red  stone 
resembling  porphyry ;  the  stem  was  six  feet  in  length, 
decorated  with  tufts  of  horse-hair  dyed  red.  The  pipe- 
bearer  stepped  within  the  circle,  lighted  the  pipe,  held 
it  towards  the  sun,  then  towards  the  different  points 
of  the  compass,  after  which  he  handed  it  to  the  prin- 
cipal chief.  The  latter  smoked  a  few  whiffs,  then,  hold- 
ing the  head  of  the  pipe  in  his  hand,  offered  the  other 
end  to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  to  each  one  successively  in  the 
circle.  When  all  had  smoked,  it  was  considered  that 
an  assurance  of  good  faith  and  amity  had  been  inter- 
changed. Mr.  Hunt  now  made  a  speech  in  French, 
which  was  interpreted  as  ht  proceeded  by  Pierre 
Dorion.  He  informed  the  Sioux  of  the  real  object  of 
the  expedition  of  himself  and  his  companions,  which 
was,  not  to  trade  with  any  of  the  tribes  up  the  river, 
but  to  cross  the  mountains  to  the  great  salt  lake  in  the 
west,  in  search  of  some  of  their  brothers,  whom  they 
had  not  seen  for  eleven  months.  That  he  had  heard 
of  the  intention  of  the  Sioux  to  oppose  his  passage,  and 
was  prepared,  as  they  might  see,  to  effect  it  at  all 
hazards ;  nevertheless,  his  feelings  towards  the  Sioux 
were  friendly,  in  proof  of  which  he  had  brought  them 
a  present  of  t  jbacco  and  corn.  So  saying,  he  ordered 
about  fifteen  v'Aiottes  of  tobacco,  and  as  many  bags  of 
corn,  to  be  brought  from  the  boat  and  laid  in  a  heap 
near  the  council  fire. 

The  sight  of  these  presents  mollified  the  chieftain, 
who  had,  doubtless,  been  previously  rendered  consider- 
ate by  the  resolute  conduct  of  the  white  men,  the  judi- 
cious disposition  of  their  little  armament,  the  complete- 
ness of  their  equipments,  and  the  compact  array  of 
battle  which  they  presented.     He  made  a  speech  in 


1 


.*    :    i^ 


i 

1 
1 


170 


ASTORIA 


p. 


1 


I 


M 

jil 
11 


reply,  in  which  he  stated  the  object  of  their  hostile  as- 
seml)lag'e,  which  had  been  merely  to  prevent  supplies 
of  arms  and  ammunition  from  S'^i^g"  to  the  Arickaras, 
Mandans,  and  Minatarees,  with  whom  they  were  at 
war;  but  being-  now  convinced  that  the  party  were 
carrying  no  supplies  of  the  kind,  but  merely  proceed- 
ing in  quest  of  their  brothers  beycMid  the  mountains, 
they  would  not  impede  them  in  their  voyage.  lie  con- 
cluded by  thanking  them  for  their  present,  and  advis- 
ing them  to  encamp  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  as 
he  had  some  young  men  among  his  warriors  for  whose 
discretion  he  could  not  be  answerable,  and  who  might 
be  troublesome. 

Here  ended  the  conference :  they  all  arose,  shook 
hands,  and  parted.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  re- 
embarked,  and  the  boats  proceeded  on  their  course 
unmolested. 


■t.  t 


CHAPTER    XIX 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day  (June  ist)  they 
arrived  at  the  great  bend,  where  the  river  winds  for 
about  thirty  miles  round  a  circular  peninsula,  the  neck 
of  which  is  not  above  two  thousand  yards  across.  On 
the  succeeding  morning,  at  an  early  hour,  they  descried 
two  Indians  standing  on  a  high  bank  of  the  river,  wav- 
ing and  spreading  their  buffalo  robes  in  signs  of  amity. 
They  immediately  pulled  to  shore  and  landed.  On 
approaching  the  savages,  however,  the  latter  showed 
evident  symptoms  of  alarm,  spreading  out  their  arms 
horizontally,  according  to  their  mode  of  supplicating 
clemency.  Tlie  reason  was  soon  explained.  They  proved 
to  be  two  chiefs  of  the  very  war  party  that  had  brought 
Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  to  a  stand  two  years  be- 
fore, and  obliged  them  to  escape  down  the  river.  They 
ran  to  embrace  these  gentlemen,  as  if  delighted  to  meet 
with  them ;  yet  they  evidently  feared  some  retaliation 


ASTORIA 


171 


as- 
ics 
•as, 
at 
ere 
;c(l- 
ins, 
:on- 
ivis- 
r,  as 
hose 
light 

liook 
s  re- 
3urse 


they 
J  for 
neck 
On 
fccried 
kvav- 


of  their  past  misconduct,  nor  were  they  quite  at  ease 
until  the  pipe  of  peace  had  l)ccn  smoked. 

Mr.  Hunt  having  l)een  informed  that  the  tril)e  to 
whicli  these  men  l)ek)nged  had  killed  three  white  men 
during  the  preceding  summer,  reproached  them  with 
the  crime,  and  demanded  their  reasons  for  such  savage 
hostility.  "  W'e  kill  white  men,"  replied  one  of  tlie 
chiefs,  "  hecausc  white  men  kill  us.  That  very  man," 
added  he,  pointing  to  Carson,  one  of  the  new  recruits, 
"  killed  one  of  our  hrolhers  last  summer.  The  three 
white  men  were  slain  to  avenge  his  death." 

Their  chief  was  correct  in  his  reply.  Carson  ad- 
mitted that,  heing  with  a  party  of  Arickaras  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri,  and  seeing  a  war  party  of  Sioux 
on  the  opposite  side,  he  had  fired  with  his  rifle  across. 
It  was  a  random  shot,  made  without  much  expectation 
of  effect,  for  the  river  was  full  half  a  mile  in  breadth. 
Unluckily  it  brought  down  a  Sioux  warrior,  for  w^hose 
wanton  destruction  threefold  vengeance  had  been 
taken,  as  has  been  stated.  In  this  way  outrages  are  fre- 
quently committed  on  the  natives  by  thoughtless  or 
mischievous  white  men ;  the  Indians  retaliate  according 
to  a  law  of  their  code,  which  requires  blood  for  blood; 
their  act,  of  w'hat  with  them  is  pious  vengeance, 
resounds  throughout  the  land,  and  is  represented  as 
wanton  and  unprovoked ;  the  neighborhood  is  roused 
to  arms ;  a  war  ensues,  which  ends  in  the  destruction 
of  half  the  tribe,  the  ruin  of  the  rest,  and  their  ex- 
pulsion from  their  hereditary  homes.  Such  is  too  often 
the  real  history  of  Indian  warfare,  which  in  general 
is  traced  up  only  to  some  vindictive  act  of  a  savage ; 
while  the  outrage  of  the  scoundrel  white  man  that  pro- 
voked it  is  sunk  in  silence. 

The  two  chiefs,  having  smoked  their  pipe  of  peace 
and  received  a  few  presents,  departed  well  satisfied. 
In  a  little  while  two  others  appeared  on  horseback,  and 
rode  up  abreast  of  the  boats.    They  had  seen  the  pres- 


,1 

i 
i 


1^2 


ASTORIA 


if 


I ;  (ill'  '^ 


ents  given  to  their  comrades,  but  were  dissatisfied  with 
tlieni.  and  came  after  the  l)oats  to  ask  for  more.  Being 
somewhat  peremptory  and  insolent  in  their  demands, 
Mr.  Hunt  gave  them  a  flat  refusal,  and  threatened,  if 
they  or  any  of  their  tribe  followed  him  with  similar 
demands,  to  treat  them  as  enemies.  They  turned  and 
rode  off  in  a  furious  passion.  As  he  was  ignorant  what 
force  these  chiefs  might  have  behind  the  hills,  and  as 
it  was  very  possible  they  might  take  advantage  of  some 
pass  of  the  river  to  attack  the  boats.  Air.  Hunt  called 
all  stragglers  on  board  and  prepared  for  such  emer- 
gency. It  was  agreed  that  the  large  boat  commanded 
by  Mr.  Hunt  should  ascend  along  the  northeast  side  of 
the  river,  and  the  three  smaller  boats  along  the  south 
side.  By  this  arrangement  each  party  would  com- 
mand a  view  of  the  opposite  heights  above  the  heads 
and  out  of  the  sight  of  their  companions,  and  could 
give  the  alarm  should  they  perceive  any  Indians  lurk- 
ing there.  The  signal  of  alarm  was  to  be  two  shots 
fired  in  quick  succession. 

The  boats  proceeded  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day 
without  seeing  any  signs  of  an  enemy.  About  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  large  boat,  commanded  by 
Mr.  Hunt,  came  to  where  the  river  w^as  divided  by  a 
long  sand-bar,  which  apparently,  however,  left  a  suf- 
ficient channel  between  it  and  the  shore  along  which 
they  were  advancing.  He  kept  up  this  channel,  there- 
fore, for  some  distance,  until  the  water  proved  too 
shallow  for  the  boat.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to 
put  about,  return  down  the  channel,  and  pull  round 
the  lower  end  of  the  sand-bar  into  the  main  stream. 
Just  as  he  had  given  orders  to  this  effect  to  his  men, 
tw^o  signal  guns  were  fired  from  the  boats  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river.  At  the  same  moment,  a  file  of 
savage  warriors  was  observed  pouring  down  from  the 
impending  bank,  and  gathering  on  the  shore  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  bar.    They  \vere  evidently  a  war  party, 


ASTORIA 


^73 


bv  a 
suf- 
Ivhich 
there- 
too 
-e,  to 
roimcl 
ream, 
men, 
le  op- 
ileof 
the 
the 
)arty, 


beiiifi^  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  battle  dubs  and 
carbines,  and  round  bucklers  of  buffalo  bide,  and  their 
naked  bodies  were  painted  with  black  and  white  stripes. 
The  natural  inference  was,  that  they  belonj^ed  to  the 
two  tribes  of  Sioux  which  had  been  expected  by  the 
great  war  party,  and  that  they  had  been  incited  to  hos- 
tility by  the  two  chiefs  who  had  been  enraged  by  the 
refusal  and  the  menace  of  Mr.  Hunt.  Here  then  was 
a  fearful  predicament.  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  crew  seemed 
caught,  as  it  were,  in  a  trap.  The  Indians,  to  the 
number  of  about  a  hundred,  had  already  taken  pos- 
session of  a  point  near  which  the  boat  would  have  to 
pass :  others  kept  pouring  down  the  bank,  and  it  was 
probable  that  some  would  remain  posted  on  the  top  of 
the  height. 

The  hazardous  situation  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  perceived 
by  those  in  the  other  boats,  and  they  hastened  to  his 
assistance.  They  were  at  some  distance  above  the  sand- 
bar, however,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and 
saw,  with  intense  anxiety,  the  number  of  savages  con- 
tinually augmenting,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  channel, 
so  that  the  boat  would  be  exposed  to  a  fearful  attack 
before  they  could  render  it  any  assistance.  Their  anx- 
iety increased,  as  they  saw  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  de- 
scending the  channel  and  dauntlessly  approaching  tl  ^ 
point  of  danger;  but  it  suddenly  changed  into  surpriL. 
on  l)eholding  the  boat  pass  close  by  the  savage  horde 
unmolested,  and  steer  out  safely  into  the  broad  river. 

The  next  moment  the  whole  band  of  warriors  was  in 
motion.  They  ran  along  the  bank  until  they  were 
opposite  to  the  boats,  then  throwing  by  their  weapons 
and  buffalo  robes,  plunged  into  the  river,  waded  and 
swam  off  to  the  boats  and  surrounded  them  in  crowds, 
seeking  to  shake  hands  with  every  individual  on  board ; 
for  the  Indians  have  long  since  found  this  to  be  the 
white  man's  token  of  amity,  and  they  carry  it  to  an 
extreme. 


r;3l    H 

I 


174 


ASTORIA 


All  uneasiness  was  now  at  an  end.  The  Indians 
proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Arjckaras,  jMandans,  and 
Minatarees,  consisting  of  three  hundred  warriors,  and 
bound  on  a  foray  against  the  Sioux.  Their  war  plans 
were  abandoned  for  the  present,  and  they  determined 
to  return  to  the  Arickara  town,  where  they  hoped  to 
obtain  from  the  white  men  arms  and  ammunition  that 
would  enable  them  to  take  the  field  with  advantage  over 
their  enemies. 

The  boats  now  sought  the  first  convenient  place  for 
encamping.  The  tents  were  pitched ;  the  warriors  fixed 
their  camp  at  about  a  hundred  yards  distant;  provi- 
sions were  furnished  from  the  boats  suf^cient  for  all 
parties ;  there  was  hearty  though  rude  feasting  in  both 
camps,  and  in  the  evening  the  red  warriors  entertained 
their  white  friends  with  dances  and  songs,  that  lasted 
until  after  midnight. 

On  the  following  morning  (July  3)  the  travellers 
reembarked,  and  took  a  temporary  leave  of  their  In- 
dian friends,  who  intended  to  proceed  immediately  for 
the  Arickara  town,  where  they  expected  to  arrive  in 
three  days,  long  before  the  boats  could  reach  there. 
Mr.  Hunt  had  not  proceeded  far  before  the  chief  came 
galloping  along  the  shore  and  made  signs  for  a  parley. 
He  said,  his  people  could  not  go  home  satisfied  unless 
they  had  something  to  take  with  them  to  prove  that 
they  had  met  with  the  white  men.  Mr.  Hunt  under- 
stood the  drift  of  the  speech,  and  made  the  chief  a 
present  of  a  cask  of  powder,  a  bag  of  balls,  and  three 
dozen  of  knives,  with  which  he  was  ,highly  pleased. 
While  the  chief  was  receiving  these  presents  an  Indian 
came  running  along  the  shore,  and  announced  that  a 
boat,  filled  with  white  men,  was  coming  up  the  river. 
This  was  by  no  means  agreeable  tidings  to  Mr.  Hunt, 
who  correctly  concluded  it  to  be  the  boat  of  Mr.  Man- 
uel Lisa ;  and  he  was  vexed  to  find  that  alert  and  ad- 
venturous trader  upon  his  heels,  whom  he  hoped  to 


a 
f 


ASTORIA 


175 


lians 

and 

and 
plans 
lined 
ed  to 
I  that 
;  over 

:e  for 
,  fixed 
provi- 
or  all 
1  both 
tained 
lasted 

vellers 
;ir  In- 
y  for 
ive  in 
there, 
came 
Darley. 
unless 
e  that 
inder- 
hief  a 
three 
eased, 
ndian 
ithat  a 
river. 
Hunt, 
Man- 
d  ad- 
ed  to 


have  out-manoeuvred,  and  left  far  behind.  Lisa,  how- 
ever, was  too  much  experienced  in  the  wiles  of  Indian 
trade  to  be  lulled  by  the  promise  of  waiting  for  him 
at  the  Poncas  village ;  on  the  contrary,  he  had  allowed 
himself  no  repose,  and  had  strained  every  nerve  to 
overtake  the  rival  party,  and  availing  himself  of  the 
moonlight,  had  even  sailed  during  a  considerable  part 
of  the  night.  In  this  he  was  partly  prompted  by  his 
apprehensions  of  the  Sioux,  having  met  a  boat  which 
had  probably  passed  Mr.  Hunt's  party  in  the  night,  and 
which  had  been  fired  into  by  these  savages. 

On  hearing  that  Lisa  was  so  near  at  hand,  Mr. 
Hunt  perceived  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  any 
longer  to  evade  him  ;  after  proceeding  a  few  miles  fur- 
ther, therefore,  he  came  to  a  halt  and  waited  for  him 
to  come  up.  In  a  little  while  the  barge  of  Lisa  made 
its  appearance.  It  came  sweeping  gently  up  the  river, 
manned  by  its  twenty  stout  oarsmen,  and  armed  by  a 
swivel  mounted  at  the  bow.  The  whole  number  on 
board  amounted  to  twenty-six  men;  among  them 
was  Mr.  Henry  Breckenridge,  then  a  young,  enterpris- 
ing man ;  who  was  a  mere  passenger,  tempted  by  no- 
tions of  curiosity  to  accompany  Mr.  Lisa.  He  has 
since  made  himself  known  by  various  writing,  among 
which  may  be  noted  a  narrative  of  this  very  voyage. 

The  approach  of  Lisa,  while  it  was  regarded  with 
uneasiness  by  Mr.  Hunt,  roused  the  ire  of  M'Lellan ; 
who,  calling  to  mind  old  grievances,  began  to  look 
round  for  his  rifle,  as  if  he  really  intended  to  carry 
his  threat  into  execution  and  shoot  him  on  the  spot; 
and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  en- 
abled to  restrain  his  ire,  and  prevent  a  scene  of  outrage 
and  confusion. 

The  meeting  between  the  two  leaders,  thus  mutu- 
ally distrustful,  could  not  be  very  cordial;  and  as  to 
Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan,  though  they  refrained 
from  any  outbreak,  yet  they  regarded  in  grim  defiance 


f 


f 


;:1 

1 


I'lM 


176 


ASTORIA 


I  riff 


11 


their  old  rival  and  under-plotter.  In  truth  a  general 
distrust  prevailed  throughout  the  party  concerning 
Lisa  and  his  intentions.  They  considered  him  artful 
and  slippery,  and  secretly  anxious  for  the  failure  of 
their  expedition.  There  being  now  nothing  more  to 
be  apprehended  from  the  Sioux,  they  suspected  that 
Lisa  would  take  advantage  of  his  twenty-oared  barge 
to  leave  them  and  get  first  among  the  Arickaras.  As 
he  had  traded  with  those  people  and  possessed  great 
influence  over  them,  it  was  feared  he  might  make  use 
of  it  to  impede  the  business  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 
It  was  resolved,  therefore,  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out 
upon  his  movements;  and  M'Lellan  swore  that  if  he 
saw  the  least  sign  of  treachery  on  his  part,  he  would 
instantly  put  his  old  threat  into  execution. 

Notwithstanding  these  secret  jealousies  and  heart- 
burnings, the  two  parties  maintained  an  outward  ap- 
pearance of  civility,  and  for  two  days  continued  for- 
ward in  company  with  some  degree  of  harmony.  On 
the  third  day,  however,  an  explosion  took  place,  and  it 
was  produced  by  no  less  a  personage  than  Pierre 
Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter.  It  will  be  recol- 
lected that  this  worthy  had  been  obliged  to  steal  a 
march  from  St.  Louis,  to  avoid  being  arrested  for  an 
old  whiskey  debt  which  he  owed  to  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company,  and  by  which  Mr.  Lisa  had  hoped  to  prevent 
his  enlisting  in  Mr.  Hunt's  expedition.  Dorion,  since 
the  arrival  of  Lisa,  had  kept  aloof  and  regarded  him 
with  a  sullen  and  dogged  aspect.  On  the  fifth  of  July 
the  two  parties  were  brought  to  a  halt  by  a  heavy  r,  in, 
and  remained  encamped  about  a  hundred  yards  apart. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  Lisa  undertook  to  tamper  with 
the  faith  of  Pierre  Dorion.  and,  inviting  him  on  board 
of  his  boat,  regaled  him  with  his  favorite  whiskey. 
When  he  thought  him  sufficiently  mellowed,  he  pro- 
posed to  him  to  quit  the  service  of  his  new  employers 
and  return  to  his  old  allegiance.    Finding  him  not  to 


ASTORIA 


177 


^neral 
:rning 
artful 
ire  of 
Dre  to 
:l  that 
barge 
3.     As 
great 
ke  use 
party, 
ok-out 
t  if  he 
would 

heart- 
ird  ap- 
ed for- 
y.     On 
and  it 
Pierre 
recol- 
Isteal  a 
for  an 
ri  Fur 
revent 
\,  since 
id  him 
>f  July 

ly  r.  in, 

apart. 
;r  with 

board 

[liskey. 

le  pro- 

)loyers 

Inot  to 


be  moved  by  soft  words,  he  called  to  mind  his  old 
debt  to  the  company,  and  threatened  to  carry  him  off 
by  force,  in  payment  of  it.  The  mention  of  this  debt 
always  stirred  up  the  gall  of  Pierre  Dorion,  bringing 
with  it  the  remembrance  of  the  whiskey  extortion.  A 
violent  quarrel  arose  between  him  and  Lisa,  and  he  left 
the  boat  in  high  dudgeon.  His  first  step  was  to  repair 
to  the  tent  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  reveal  the  attempt  that 
had  been  made  to  shake  his  faith.  While  he  was  yet 
talking  Lisa  entered  the  tent,  under  the  pretext  of 
coming  to  borrow  a  towing  line.  High  words  instantly 
ensued  betv/een  him  and  Dorion,  which  ended  by  the 
half-breed's  dealing  him  a  blow.  A  quarrel  in  the 
**  Indian  country,"  however,  is  not  to  be  settled  with 
fisticuffs.  Lisa  immediately  rushed  to  his  boat  for  a 
weapon.  Dorion  snatched  up  a  pair  of  pistols  belong- 
ing to  Mr.  Hunt,  and  placed  himself  in  battle  array. 
The  noise  had  roused  the  camp,  and  every  one  pressed 
to  know  the  cause.  Lisa  now  reappeared  upon  the  field 
with  a  knife  stuck  in  his  girdle.  Mr.  Breckenridge, 
who  had  tried  in  vain  to  mollify  his  ire,  accompanied 
him  to  the  scene  of  action.  Pierre  Dorion's  pistols  gave 
him  the  advantage,  and  he  maintained  a  most  warlike 
attitude.  In  the  meantime.  Crooks  and  M'Lellan  had 
learnt  the  cause  of  the  affray,  and  were  each  eager  to 
take  the  quarrel  into  their  own  hands.  A  scene  of 
uproar  and  hubbub  ensued  that  defies  description. 
M'Lellan  would  have  brought  his  rifle  into  play  and 
settled  all  old  and  new  grudges  by  a  pull  of  the  trigger, 
had  he  not  been  restrained  by  Mr.  Hunt.  That  gentle- 
man acted  as  moderator,  endeavoring  to  prevent  a  gen- 
eral melee :  in  the  midst  of  the  brawl,  however,  an  ex- 
pression was  made  use  of  by  Lisa  derogatory  to  his 
own  honor.  In  an  instant  the  tranquil  spirit  of  Mr. 
Hunt  was  in  a  flame.  He  now  became  as  eager  for  the 
fight  as  any  one  on  the  ground,  and  challenged  Lisa  to 
settle  the  dispute  on  the  spot  with  pistols.     Lisa  re- 


12 


178 


ASTORIA 


paired  to  his  boat  to  arm  himself  for  the  deadly  feud. 
He  was  followed  by  Messrs.  Bradbury  and  Brecken- 
ridge,  who,  novices  in  Indian  life  and  the  "  chivalry  " 
of  the  frontier,  had  no  relish  for  scenes  of  blood  and 
brawl.  By  their  earnest  mediation  the  quarrel  was 
brought  to  a  close  without  bloodshed;  but  the  two 
leaders  of  the  rival  camps  separated  in  anger,  and  all 
personal  intercourse  ceased  between  them. 


CHAPTER    XX 


I  :■  • 


i  I 


m 


»-|i-' 


The  rival  parties  now  coasted  along  the  opposite  sides 
of  the  river,  within  sight  of  each  other ;  the  barges  of 
Mr.  Hunt  always  keeping  some  distance  in  the  advance, 
lest  Lisa  should  push  on  and  get  first  to  the  Arickara 
village.  The  scenery  and  objects,  as  they  proceeded, 
gave  evidence  that  they  were  advancing  deeper  and 
deeper  into  the  domains  of  savage  nature.  Boundless 
wastes  kept  extending  to  the  eye,  more  and  more  ani- 
mated by  herds  of  buffalo.  Sometimes  these  unwieldy 
animals  were  seen  moving  in  long  procession  across  the 
silent  landscape ;  at  other  times  they  were  scattered 
about,  singly  or  in  groups,  on  the  broad,  enamelled 
prairies  and  green  acclivities,  some  cropping  the  rich 
pasturage,  others  reclining  amidst  the  flowery  herb- 
age; the  whole  scene  realizing  in  a  manner  the  old 
Scriptural  descriptions  of  the  vast  pastoral  countries 
of  the  Orient,  with  "  cattle  upon  a  thousand  hills." 

At  one  place  the  shores  seemed  absolutely  lined  with 
buffaloes;  many  were  making  their  way  across  the 
stream,  snorting,  and  blowing,  and  floundering.  Num- 
bers, in  spite  of  every  effort,  were  borne  by  the  rapid 
current  within  shot  of  the  boats,  and  several  were 
killed.  At  another  place  a  number  were  descried  on  the 
beach  of  a  small  island,  under  the  shade  of  the  trees, 


ASTORIA 


179 


feud. 
:ken- 
Llry  " 
I  and 
was 
;  two 
id  all 


:  sides 
ges  of 
vance, 
ickara 
ceded, 
and 
ndless 
■e  ani- 
^vieldy 
iss  the 
[ttered 
Inelled 
rich 
herb- 
[C  old 
Intries 

with 
ts  the 

[um- 
I  rapid 

were 
)n  the 
Itrees, 


or  standing  in  the  water,  like  cattle,  to  avoid  the  flies 
and  the  heat  of  the  day. 

Several  of  the  best  marksmen  stationed  themselves 
in  the  bow  of  a  barge  which  advanced  slowly  and 
silently,  stemming  the  current  with  the  aid  of  a  broad 
sail  and  a  fair  breeze.  The  buffaloes  stood  gazing 
quietly  at  the  barge  as  it  approached,  perfectly  uncon- 
scious of  their  danger.  The  fattest  of  the  herd  was 
selected  by  the  hunters,  who  all  fired  together  and 
brought  down  their  victim. 

Beside  the  buffaloes  they  saw  abundance  of  deer, 
and  frequent  gangs  of  stately  elks,  together  with  light 
troops  of  sprightly  antelopes,  the  fleetest  and  most  beau- 
tiful inhabitants  of  the  prairies. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  antelopes  in  these  regions, 
one  nearly  the  size  of  the  common  deer,  the  other  not 
much  larger  than  a  goat.  Their  color  is  a  light  gray, 
or  rather  dun,  slightly  spotted  with  white;  and  they 
have  small  horns  like  those  of  the  deer,  which  they 
never  shed.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  delicate  and  ele- 
gant finish  of  their  limbs,  in  which  lightness,  elasticity, 
and  strength  are  wonderfully  combined.  All  the  at- 
titudes and  movements  of  this  beautiful  animal  are 
graceful  and  picturesque ;  and  it  is  altogether  as  fit  a 
subject  for  the  fanciful  uses  of  the  poet  as  the  oft- 
suno-  gazelle  of  the  East. 

Their  habits  are  shy  and  capricious;  they  keep  on 
the  open  plains,  are  quick  to  take  the  alarm,  and  bound 
away  with  a  fleetness  that  defies  pursuit.  When  thus 
skimming  across  a  prairie  in  the  autumn,  their  light 
gray  or  dun  color  blends  with  the  hue  of  the  withered 
herbage,  the  swiftness  of  their  motion  bafiles  the  eye, 
and  they  almost  seem  unsubstantial  forms,  driven  like 
gossamer  before  the  wind. 

While  they  thus  keep  to  the  open  plain  and  trust  to 
their  speed,  they  are  safe;  but  they  have  a  prurient 
curiosity  that  sometimes  betrays  them  to  their  ruin. 


.;« 


'% 


1 . 


y  'i 
!  i 


I  M 


i8o 


ASTORIA 


When  they  have  scud  for  some  distance  and  left  their 
pursuer  behind,  they  will  suddenly  stop  and  turn  to 
gaze  at  the  object  of  their  alarm.  If  the  pursuit  is  not 
followed  up  they  will,  after  a  time,  yield  to  their  in- 
quisitive hankering,  and  return  to  the  place  from 
whence  they  have  been  frightened. 

John  Day,  the  veteran  hunter  already  mentioned,  dis- 
played his  experience  and  skill  in  entrapping  one  of 
these  beautiful  animals.  Taking  advantage  of  its  well- 
known  curiosity,  he  laid  down  flat  among  the  grass, 
and  putting  his  handkerchief  on  the  end  of  his  ram- 
rod, waved  it  gently  in  the  air.  This  had  the  effect  of 
the  fabled  fascination  of  the  rattlesnake.  The  antelope 
approached  timidly,  pausing  and  reconnoitring  with 
increased  curiosity ;  moving  round  the  point  of  attrac- 
tion in  a  circle,  but  still  drawing  nearer  and  nearer,  un- 
til being  within  the  range  of  the  deadly  rifle,  he  fell  a 
victim  to  his  curiosity. 

On  the  loth  of  June,  as  the  party  were  making  brisk 
progress  with  a  fine  breeze,  they  met  a  canoe  with  three 
Indians  descending  the  river.  They  came  to  a  parley, 
and  brought  news  from  the  Arickara  village.  The  war 
party,  which  had  caused  such  alarm  at  the  sand-bar, 
had  reached  the  village  some  days  previously,  an- 
nounced the  approach  of  a  party  of  traders,  and  dis- 
played with  great  ostentation  the  presents  they  had  re- 
ceived from  them.  On  further  conversation  with  these 
tliree  Indians,  Mr.  Hunt  learnt  the  real  danger  which 
he  had  run,  when  hemmed  up  within  the  sand-bar. 
The  Mandans  who  were  of  the  war  party,  when  they 
saw  the  boat  so  completely  entrapped  and  apparently 
within  their  power,  had  been  eager  for  attacking  it, 
and  securing  so  rich  a  prize.  The  Minatarees,  also, 
were  nothing  loth,  feeling  in  some  measure  committed 
in  hostility  to  the  whites,  in  consequence  of  their  tribe 
having  killed  two  white  men  above  the  fort  of  the  ?.Iis- 
souri  Fur  Company.    Fortunately,  the  Arickaras,  who 


ASTORIA 


i8i 


1  these 

,'hich 

b-bar. 

they 

|-ently 

ig  it, 

also, 

itted 

tribe 


w 


[IS- 

ho 


formed  the  majority  of  the  war  party,  proved  true 
in  their  friendship  to  the  whites,  and  prevented  any 
hostile  act.  otherwise  a  bloody  affray  and  perhaps  a 
horrible  massacre  might  have  ensued. 

On  the  nth  of  June,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions 
encamped  near  an  island  about  six  miles  below  the 
Arickara  village.  Mr.  Lisa  encamped,  as  usual,  at  no 
great  distance;  but  the  same  sullen  and  jealous  reserve, 
and  non-intercourse  continued  between  them.  Shortly 
after  pitching  the  tents,  Mr.  Breckenridge  made  his 
appearance  as  an  ambassador  from  the  rival  camp.  He 
came  on  behalf  of  his  companions,  to  arrange  the  man- 
ner of  making  their  entrance  into  the  village  and  of 
receiving  the  chiefs;  for  everything  of  the  kind  is  a 
matter  of  grave  ceremonial  among  the  Indians. 

The  partners  now  expressed  frankly  their  deep  dis- 
trust of  the  intentions  of  Mr.  Lisa,  and  their  appre- 
hensions, that,  out  of  the  jealousy  of  trade,  and  resent- 
ment of  recent  disputes,  he  might  seek  to  instigate  the 
Arickaras  against  thern.  Mr.  Breckenridge  assured 
them  that  their  suspicions  were  entirely  groundless, 
and  pledged  himself  that  nothing  of  the  kind  should 
take  place.  He  found  it  difficult,  however,  to  remove 
their  distrust;  the  conference,  therefore,  ended  with- 
out producing  any  cordial  understanding;  and  M'Lel- 
lan  recurred  to  his  old  threat  of  shooting  Lisa  the 
instant  he  discovered  anything  like  treachery  in  his 
proceedings. 

That  night  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  accompanied  by 
thunder  and  lightning.  The  camp  was  deluged,  and 
the  bedding  and  baggage  drenched.  All  hands  em- 
barked at  an  early  hour,  and  set  forward  for  the  vil- 
lage. About  nine  o'clock,  when  half  way,  they  met  a 
canoe,  on  board  of  which  were  two  Arickara  digni- 
taries. One,  a  fine-looking  man,  much  above  the  com- 
mon size,  was  hereditary  chief  of  the  village ;  he  was 
called  the  Left-handed,  on  account  of  a  personal  pecul- 


a 


.    i' 


li 


M'^ 


uii 


'p   ft 


182 


ASTORIA 


iarity.  The  other,  a  ferocious-looking  savage,  was  the 
war  chief,  or  generahssimo ;  he  was  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Big  Man,  an  appellation  he  well  deserved 
from  his  size,  for  he  was  of  a  gigantic  frame.  Both 
were  of  fairer  complexion  than  is  usual  with  savages. 

They  were  accompanied  by  an  interpreter,  a  French 
Creole,  one  of  those  haphazard  wights  of  Gallic  origin 
who  abound  upon  our  frontier,  living  among  the  In- 
dians like  one  of  their  own  race.  He  had  been  twenty 
years  among  the  Arickaras,  had  a  squaw  and  troop  of 
piebald  children,  and  officiated  as  interpreter  to  the 
chiefs.  Through  this  worthy  organ  the  two  digni- 
taries signified  to  Mr.  Hunt  their  sovereign  intention 
to  oppose  the  further  progress  of  the  expedition  up 
the  river  unless  a  boat  were  left  to  trade  with  them. 
Mr.  Hunt,  in  reply,  explained  the  object  of  his  voyage, 
and  his  intention  of  debarking  at  their  village  and  pro- 
ceeding thence  by  land;  and  that  he  would  willingly 
trade  with  them  for  a  supply  of  horses  for  his  journey. 
With  this  explanation  they  were  perfectly  satisfied, 
and  putting  about,  steered  for  their  village  to  make 
preparations  for  the  reception  of  the  strangers. 

The  village  of  the  Rikaras,  Arickaras,  or  Ricarees, 
for  the  name  is  thus  variously  written,  is  between  the 
46th  and  47th  parallels  of  north  latitude,  and  fourteen 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri. The  party  reached  it  about  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  but  landed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
where  they  spread  out  their  baggage  and  effects  to  dry. 
From  hence  they  commanded  an  excellent  view  of  the 
village.  It  was  divided  into  two  portions,  about  eighty 
yards  apart,  being  inhabited  by  two  distinct  bands. 
The  whole  extended  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
along  the  river  bank,  and  was  composed  of  conical 
lodges,  that  looked  like  so  many  small  hillocks,  being 
wooden  frames  intertwined  with  osier,  and  covered 
with  earth.     The  plain  beyond  the  village  swept  up 


ASTORIA 


183 


rees, 
II  the 
teen 
IMis- 
the 
liver, 
dry. 
the 
jhty 
[nds. 
Imile 
ical 
ting 
ired 
up 


I 


into  hills  of  considerable  height,  but  the  whole  country 
was  nearly  destitute  of  trees.  While  they  were  re- 
garding the  village,  they  beheld  a  singular  lleet  coming 
down  the  river.  It  consisted  of  a  number  of  canoes, 
each  made  of  a  single  buffalo  hide  stretclied  on  sticks, 
so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  circular  trough.  Each  one  was 
navigated  by  a  single  squaw,  who  knelt  in  the  bottom 
and  paddled;  towing  after  her  frail  bark  a  bundle  of 
floating  wood  intended  for  firing.  This  kind  of  canoe 
is  in  frequent  use  among  the  Indians ;  the  buffalo  hide 
being  readily  made  up  into  a  bundle  and  transported 
en  horseback ;  it  is  very  serviceable  in  conveying  bag- 
gage across  the  rivers. 

The  great  number  of  horses  grazing  around  the  vil- 
lage, and  scattered  over  the  neighboring  hills  and 
valleys,  bespoke  the  equestrian  hal)it  of  the  Arickaras, 
who  are  admirable  horsemen.  Indeed,  in  the  number 
of  his  horses  consists  the  wealth  of  an  Indian  of  the 
prairies ;  who  resembles  an  Arab  in  his  passion  for  this 
noble  animal,  and  in  his  adroitness  in  the  management 
of  it. 

After  a  time,  the  voice  of  the  sovereign  chief,  "  the 
Left-handed,"  was  heard  across  the  river,  announcing 
that  the  council  lodge  was  preparing,  and  inviting  the 
white  men  to  come  over.  The  river  was  half  a  mile 
in  width,  yet  every  word  uttered  by  the  chieftain  was 
heard ;  this  may  be  partly  attributed  to  the  distinct 
manner  in  which  every  syllable  of  the  compound  w'ords 
in  the  Indian  languages  is  articulated  and  accented ; 
but  in  truth,  a  savage  warrior  might  often  rival 
Achilles  himself  for  force  of  lungs.^ 

Now  came  the  delicate  point  of  management  —  how 
the  two  rival  parties  were  to  conduct  their  visit  to  the 
village  with  proper  circumspection  and  due  decorum. 
Neither  of  the  leaders  had  spoken  to  each  other  since 
their  quarrel.    All  communication  had  been  by  ambas- 

'  Bradbury,  p.  no. 


'      .1: 


1 84 


ASTORIA 


r- 


i 


sadors.  Seeing  the  jealousy  cntcrtpincd  of  Lisa,  Mr. 
Breckenridge,  in  his  negotiatitjn,  had  arrans^ed  that  a 
deputation  from  each  party  should  cross  the  river  at 
the  same  time,  so  tliat  neither  would  have  the  first  ac- 
cess to  the  ear  of  the  Arickaras. 

The  distrust  of  Lisa,  however,  had  increased  in  pro- 
portion as  they  approached  the  sphere  of  action;  and 
M'Lellan,  in  particular,  kept  a  vigilant  eye  upon  his 
motions,  swearing  to  shoot  him  if  lie  attempted  to 
cross  the  river  first. 

About  two  o'clock  the  large  boat  of  i\Ir.  Hunt  was 
manned,  and  he  stepped  on  board,  accompanied  by 
Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Lellan :  Lisa  at  the  same 
time  embarked  in  his  barge ;  the  two  deputations 
amounted  in  all  to  fourteen  persons,  and  never  was 
any  movement  of  rival  potentates  conducted  wnth  more 
wary  exactness. 

They  landed  amidst  a  rabble  crowd,  and  were  re- 
ceived on  the  bank  by  the  left-handed  chief,  who  con- 


ducted   them   into   the   villao-e   with 


grave 


courtesy ; 


driving  to  the  right  and  left  the  swarms  of  old  squaws, 
imp-like  boys,  and  vagabond  dogs,  with  which  the 
place  abounded.  They  wound  their  way  between  the 
cabins,  which  looked  like  dirt-heaps  huddled  together 
without  any  plan,  and  surrounded  by  old  palisades ;  all 
filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  redolent  of  villainous  smells. 
At  length  they  arrived  at  the  council  lodge.  It  was 
somewhat  spacious,  and  formed  of  four  forked  trunks 
of  trees  placed  upright,  supporting  cross-beams  and  a 
frame  of  poles  interwoven  with  osiers,  and  the  whole 
covered  with  earth.  A  hole  sunken  in  the  centre 
formed  the  fireplace,  and  immediately  above  was  a 
circular  hole  in  the  apex  of  the  lodge,  to  let  out  the 
smoke  and  let  in  the  daylight.  Around  the  lodge  were 
recesses  for  sleeping,  like  the  berths  on  board  ships, 
screened  from  view  by  curtains  of  dressed  skins.  At 
the  upper  end  of  the  lodge  was  a  kind  of  hunting  and 


11 


ASTORIA 


185 


iwas 
nks 
Id  a 
liole 
litre 
Is  a 
the 
rere 
lips, 
At 
md 


warlike  tropliy.  consisting  of  two  buffalo  heads  gair- 
ishly  painted,  suimounlcd  by  shields,  bows,  (juivers  of 
arrows,  and  oilier  weapons. 

On  entering  the  lodge  the  chief  pointed  to  mats  or 
cushions  whicli  had  been  placed  around  for  the  stran- 
gers, and  on  which  they  seated  themselves,  while  he 
placed  himself  on  a  kind  of  stool.  7\n  old  man  then 
came  forward  with  the  pipe  of  peace  or  good-fellow- 
ship, lighted  and  handed  it  to  the  chief,  and  then  fall- 
ing back,  scpiatted  himself  near  the  door.  The  pipe 
was  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth,  each  one  taking  a 
whiff,  which  is  eciuivalent  to  the  inviolable  pledge  of 
faith,  of  taking  salt  together  among  the  ancient 
Britons.  The  chief  then  made  a  sign  to  the  old  pipe- 
bearer,  who  seemed  to  fill,  likewise,  the  station  of 
herald,  seneschal,  and  public  crier,  for  he  ascended  to 
the  top  of  the  lodge  to  make  proclamation.  Here  he 
took  his  post  beside  the  aperture  for  the  emission  of 
smoke  and  the  admission  of  light ;  the  chief  dictated 
from  within  what  he  was  to  proclaim,  and  he  bawled 
it  forth  with  a  force  of  lungs  that  resounded  over  all 
the  village.  In  this  way  he  summoned  the  warriors 
and  great  men  to  council ;  every  now  and  then  report- 
ing progress  to  his  chief  through  the  hole  in  the  roof. 

In  a  little  while  the  braves  and  sages  began  to  enter 
one  by  one,  as  their  names  were  called  or  announced, 
emerging  from  under  the  buffalo  robe  suspended  over 
the  entrance  instead  of  a  door,  stalking  across  the 
lodge  to  the  skins  placed  on  the  floor,  and  crouching 
down  on  them  in  silence.  In  this  way  twenty  entered 
and  took  their  seats,  forming  an  assemblage  worthy  of 
the  pencil :  for  the  Arickaras  are  a  noble  race  of  men, 
large  and  well  formed,  and  maintain  a  savage  grandeur 
and  gravity  of  demeanor  in  their  solemn  ceremonials. 

All  being  seated,  the  old  seneschal  prepared  the  pipe 
of  ceremony  or  council,  and  having  lit  it,  handed  it  to 
the  chief.     He  inhaled  the  sacred  smoke,  gave  a  puff 


'4 


!i 


^■•1 

,:)! 


I  J! 


.if' 


1 86 


ASTORIA 


!  ui 


up  ^ 

ifltn 


I:" 


upward  to  the  heaven,  then  downward  to  the  earth, 
then  towards  the  east;  after  this  it  was  as  usual 
passed  from  mouth  to  moutli,  each  holding  it  respect- 
fully until  his  neighbor  had  taken  several  whiffs ;  and 
now  the  grand  council  was  considered  as  opened  in  due 
form. 

The  chief  made  an  harangue  welcoming  the  white 
men  to  his  village,  and  expressing  his  happiness  in 
taking  them  by  the  hand  as  friends;  but  at  the  same 
time  complaining  of  the  poverty  of  himself  and  his 
people;  tlie  usual  prelude  among  Indians  to  begging 
or  hard  bargaining. 

Lisa  rose  to  reply,  and  the  eyes  of  Hunt  and  his 
companions  were  eagerly  turned  upon  him,  those  of 
M'Lellan  glaring  like  a  basilisk's.  He  began  by  the 
usual  expressions  of  friendship,  and  then  proceeded 
to  explain  the  object  of  his  own  party.  Those  per- 
sons, however,  said  he,  pointing  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his 
companions,  are  of  a  different  party,  and  are  quite 
distinct  in  their  views ;  but,  added  he,  though  we  are 
separate  parties,  we  make  but  one  common  cause  when 
the  safety  of  either  is  concerned.  Any  injury  or  in- 
sult offered  to  them  I  shall  consider  as  done  to  myself, 
and  w^ill  resent  it  accordingly.  I  trust,  therefore,  that 
you  will  treat  them  with  the  same  friendship  that  you 
have  always  manifested  for  me,  doing  everything  in 
your  power  to  serve  them  and  to  help  them  on  their 
way.  The  speech  of  Lisa,  delivered  with  an  air  of 
frankness  and  sincerity,  agreeably  surprised  and  dis- 
appointed the  rival  party. 

Mr.  Hunt  then  spoke,  declaring  the  object  of  his 
journey  to  the  great  Salt  Lake  beyond  the  mountains, 
and  that  he  should  want  horses  for  the  purpose,  for 
which  he  was  ready  to  trade,  having  brought  with  him 
plenty  of  goods.  Both  he  and  Lisa  concluded  their 
speeches  by  making  presents  of  tol^acco. 

The    left-handed    chieftain    in    reply    promised    his 


ASTORIA 


187 


in- 

hat 
you 

in 
leir 

of 
dis- 

his 


him 
leir 

his 


friendship  and  aid  to  the  new-comers,  and  welcomed 
them  to  his  village,  lie  added  that  tiiey  had  not  the 
numher  of  horses  to  spare  that  Mr.  Hunt  rcMpiired, 
and  expressed  a  doubt  whether  they  should  be  able 
to  part  with  any.  Upon  this,  another  chieftain,  called 
Gray  Eyes,  made  a  speech,  and  declared  that  they 
could  readily  supply  Mr.  Hunt  with  all  the  horses  he 
might  want,  since,  if  they  had  not  enoug'h  in  the  vil- 
lage, they  could  easily  steal  more.  This  honest  ex- 
pedient immediately  removed  the  main  difhculty ;  but 
the  chief  deferred  all  trading  for  a  day  or  two;  until 
he  should  have  time  to  consult  witb  his  subordinate 
chiefs  as  to  market  rates;  for  the  principal  chief  of  a 
village,  in  conjunction  with  his  council,  usually  fixes 
the  prices  at  which  articles  shall  be  bought  and  sold, 
and  to  them  the  village  must  conform. 

The  council  now  broke  up.  Mr.  Hunt  transferred 
his  camp  across  the  river  at  a  little  distance  below  the 
village,  and  the  left-handed  chief  placed  some  of  his 
warriors  as  a  guard  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  any  of 
his  people.  The  camp  was  pitched  on  the  river  bank 
just  above  the  boats.  The  tents,  and  the  men  wrapped 
in  their  blankets  and  bivouacking  on  skins  in  the  open 
air,  surrounded  the  baggage  at  night.  Four  sentinels 
also  kept  watch  within  sight  of  each  other  outside  of 
the  camp  until  midnight,  when  they  were  relieved  by 
four  others  who  mounted  guard  until  daylight.  Mr. 
Lisa  encamped  near  to  Mr.  Hunt,  between  him  and 
the  village. 

The  speech  of  Tvlr.  Lisa  in  the  council  had  produced 
a  pacific  effect  in  the  encampment.  Though  the  sin- 
cerity of  his  friendship  and  good-will  towards  the  new 
company  still  remained  a  matter  of  doubt,  he  was  no 
longer  suspected  of  an  intention  to  play  false.  The 
intercourse  between  the  two  leaders  was  therefore 
resumed,  and  the  affairs  of  both  parties  went  on 
harmoniously. 


»i^ 


!.  ■!  4 


l5 


If-      ^ 


V 


v 


4 
I 

I 
) 


iil  I 


m 

J  '  i  :^ .  ■  ■ 

#  

ii- 


i88  ASTORIA 


CHAPTER   XXI 

A  TRADE  now  commenced  with  the  Arickaras  under  the 
regulation  and  supervision  of  their  two  chieftains. 
Lisa  sent  a  part  of  his  goods  to  the  lodge  of  the  left- 
handed  dignitary,  and  Mr.  Hunt  established  his  mart 
in  the  lodge  of  the  Big  Man.  The  village  soon  pre- 
sented the  appearance  of  a  busy  fair;  and  as  horses 
were  in  demand,  the  purlieus  and  the  adjacent  plain 
were  like  the  vicinity  of  a  Tartar  encampment ;  horses 
were  put  through  all  their  paces,  and  horsemen  were  ca- 
reering about  with  that  dexterity  and  grace  for  which 
the  Arickaras  are  noted.  As  soon  as  a  horse  was 
purchased,  his  tail  was  cropped,  a  sure  mode  of  dis- 
tinguishing him  from  the  horses  of  the  tribe;  for  the 
Indians  disdain  to  practise  this  absurd,  barbarous,  and 
indecent  mutilation,  invented  by  some  mean  and  vulgar 
mind,  insensible  to  the  merit  and  perfections  of  the 
animal.  On  the  contrary,  the  Indian  horses  are  suffered 
to  remain  in  e\Try  respect  the  superb  and  beautiful 
animals  which  nature  formed  them. 

The  wealth  of  an  Indian  of  the  far  west  consists 
principally  in  his  horses,  of  which  each  chief  and  war- 
rior possesses  a  great  number,  so  that  the  plains  about 
an  Indian  village  or  encampment  are  covered  with 
them.  These  form  objects  of  traffic,  or  objects  of 
depredation,  and  in  this  way  pass  from  tribe  to  tribe 
over  great  tracts  of  country.  The  horses  owned  by 
the  Arickaras  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  wild  stock 
of  the  prairies;  some,  however,  had  been  obtained 
from  the  Poncas,  Pawnees,  and  other  tribes  to  the 
southwest,  who  had  stolen  them  from  the  Spaniards 
in  the  course  of  horse-stealing  expeditions  into  the 
]\Iexican  territories.  These  were  to  jje  known  by  being 
branded ;  a  Spanish  mode  of  marking  horses  not  prac- 
tised by  the  Indians. 


i 


ASTORIA 


189 


war- 
ibout 
I  with 
s  of 
[tribe 
[l  by 
;tock 
.ined 
the 
[ards 
the 
jeing 
>rac- 


As  the  Arickaras  were  meditating  another  expedi- 
tion against  their  enemies  the  Sioux,  the  articles  of 
traffic  most  in  demand  were  guns,  tomahawks,  scalping- 
knives,  powder,  ball,  and  other  munitions  of  war.  The 
price  of  a  horse,  as  regulated  by  the  chiefs,  was  com- 
monly ten  dollars  worth  of  goods  at  first  cost.  To  sup- 
ply the  demand  thus  suddenly  created,  parties  of  young 
men  and  .braves  had  sallied  forth  on  expeditions  to 
steal  horses ;  a  species  of  service  among  the  Indians 
which  takes  precedence  of  hunting,  and  is  considered 
a  department  of  honorable  warfare. 

While  the  leaders  of  the  expedition  were  actively 
engaged  in  preparing  for  the  approaching  journey, 
those  who  had  accompanied  it  for  curiosity  or  amuse- 
ment, found  ample  matter  for  observation  in  the  vil- 
lage and  its  inhabitants.  Wherever  they  went  they 
were  kindly  entertained.  If  they  entered  a  lodge,  the 
buffalo  robe  was  spread  before  the  fire  for  them  to  sit 
down ;  the  pipe  was  brought,  and  while  the  master 
of  the  lodge  conversed  with  his  guests,  the  squaw  put 
the  earthen  vessel  over  the  fire,  well  filled  with  dried- 
buffalo  meat  and  pounded  corn ;  for  the  Indian  in  his 
native  state,  before  he  has  mingled  much  with  white 
men,  and  acquired  their  sordid  habits,  has  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  Arab:  never  does  a  stranger  enter  his 
door  without  having  food  placed  before  him ;  and  never 
is  the  food  thus  furnished  made  a  matter  of  traffic. 

The  life  of  an  Indian  when  at  home  in  his  village 
is  a  life  of  indolence  and  amusement.  To  the  woman 
is  consigned  the  labors  of  the  household  and  the  field ; 
she  arranges  the  lodge;  brings  wood  for  the  fire; 
cooks;  jerks  venison  and  buffalo  meat;  dresses  the 
skins  of  the  animals  killed  in  the  chase;  cultivates  the 
little  patch  of  maize,  pumpkins,  and  pulse,  which  fur- 
nishes a  great  part  of  their  provisions.  Their  time 
for  repose  and  recreation  is  at  sunset,  when  the  labors 
of  the  day  being  ended,  they  gather  together  to  amuse 


'1 

1 


111 


'!;.» 


fu 


f 


m.'i 


190 


ASTORIA 


themselves  with  petty  games,  or  to  hold  gossiping  con- 
vocations on  the  tops  of  their  lodges. 

As  to  the  Indian,  he  is  a  game  animal,  not  to  be 
degraded  by  useful  or  menial  toil.  It  is  enough  that  he 
exposes  himself  to  the  hardships  of  the  chase  and  the 
perils  of  war ;  that  he  brings  home  food  for  his  family, 
and  watches  and  fights  for  its  protection.  Everything 
else  is  beneath  his  attention.  When  at  home,  he  at- 
tends only  to  his  weapons  and  his  horses,  preparing 
the  means  of  future  exploit.  Or  he  engages  with  his 
comrades  in  games  of  dexterity,  agility  and  strength; 
or  in  gambling  games  in  which  everything  is  put  at 
hazard  with  a  recklessness  seldom  witnessed  in  civil- 
ized life. 

A  great  part  of  the  idle  leisure  of  the  Indians  when 
at  home,  is  passed  in  groups,  squatted  together  on 
the  bank  of  a  river,  on  the  top  of  a  mound  on  the 
prairie,  or  on  the  roof  of  one  of  their  earth-covered 
lodges,  talking  over  the  news  of  the  day,  the  affairs 
of  the  tribe,  the  events  and  exploits  of  their  last 
hunting  or  fighting  expedition;  or  listening  to  the 
stories  of  old  times  told  by  some  veteran  chronicler; 
resembling  a  group  of  our  village  quidnuncs  and  poli- 
ticians, listening  to  the  prosings  of  some  superannu- 
ated oracle,  or  discussing  the  contents  of  an  ancient 
newspaper. 

As  to  the  Indian  women,  they  are  far  from  com- 
plaining of  their  lot.  On  the  contrary,  they  would 
despise  their  husbands  could  they  stoop  to  any  menial 
ofBce,  and  would  think  it  conveyed  an  imputation  upon 
their  own  conduct.  It  is  the  worst  insult  one  virago 
can  cast  upon  another  in  a  moment  of  altercation. 
''Infamous  woman!"  will  she  cry,  "  I  have  seen  your 
husband  carrying  wood  into  his  lodge  to  make  the  fire. 
Where  was  his  squaw,  that  he  should  be  obliged  to 
make  a  woman  of  himself!" 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his   fellow-travellers  had  not  been 


ASTORIA 


191 


)een 


many  days  at  the  Arickara  village,  when  rumors  be- 
gan to  circulate  that  the  Sioux  had  followed  them 
up,  and  that  a  war  party,  four  or  five  hundred  in  num- 
ber, were  lurking  somewhere  in  the  neighborhood. 
These  rumors  produced  much  embarrassment  in  the 
camp.  The  white  hunters  were  deterred  from  ventur- 
ing forth  in  quest  of  game,  neither  did  the  leaders 
think  it  proper  to  expose  them  to  such  a  risk.  The 
Arickaras,  too,  who  had  suffered  greatly  in  their  wars 
with  this  cruel  and  ferocious  tribe,  were  roused  to 
increased  vigilance,  and  stationed  mounted  scouts  upon 
the  neighboring  hills.  This,  however,  is  a  general  pre- 
caution among  the  tribes  of  the  prairies.  Those  im- 
mense plains  present  a  horizon  like  the  ocean,  so  that 
any  object  of  importance  can  be  descried  afar,  and 
information  communicated  to  a  great  distance.  The 
scouts  are  stationed  on  the  hills,  therefore,  to  look  out 
both  for  game  and  for  enemies,  and  are,  in  a  manner, 
living  telegraphs  conveying  their  intelligence  by  con- 
certed signs.  If  they  wish  to  give  notice  of  a  herd  of 
buffalo  in  the  plain  beyond,  they  gallop  backwards  and 
forwards  abreast,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  If  they 
perceive  an  enemy  at  hand,  they  gallop  to  and  fro, 
crossing  each  other;  at  sight  of  which  the  whole  vil- 
lage flies  to  arms. 

Such  an  alarm  was  given  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
15th.  Four  scouts  were  seen  crossing  and  recrossing 
each  other  at  full  gallop,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  about 
two  miles  distant  down  the  river.  The  cry  was  up 
that  the  Sioux  were  coming.  In  an  instant  the  village 
was  in  an  uproar.  Men,  women,  and  children  were 
all  brawling  and  shouting;  dogs  barking,  yelping,  and 
howling.  Some  of  the  warriors  ran  for  the  horses  to 
gather  and  drive  them  in  from  the  prairie,  some  for 
their  weapons.  As  fast  as  they  could  arm  and  equip 
they  sallied  forth ;  some  on  horseback,  some  on  foot. 
Some  hastily  arrayed  in  their  war  dress,  with  coronets 


t?  :.il 


:     .id' 


i  If* 


ti 


i 


192 


ASTORIA 


of  fluttering  feathers,  and  tlieir  bodies  smeared  with 
paint ;  others  naked  and  only  furnished  with  the  weap- 
ons they  had  snatched  up.  The  women  and  children 
gathered  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges  and  heightened 
the  confusion  of  the  scene  by  their  vociferation.  Old 
men  who  could  no  longer  bear  arms  took  similar  sta- 
tions, and  harangued  the  warriors  as  they  passed,  ex- 
horting them  to  valorous  deeds.  Some  of  the  veterans 
took  arms  themselves,  and  sallied  forth  with  tottering 
steps.  In  this  way,  the  savage  chivalry  of  the  village 
to  the  number  of  five  hundred,  ix)ured  forth,  helter- 
skelter,  riding  and  running,  with  hideous  yells  and 
war-whoops,  like  so  many  bedlamites  or  demoniacs 
let  loose. 

After  a  while  the  tide  of  war  rolled  back,  but  with 
far  less  uproar.  Either  it  had  been  a  false  alarm,  or 
the  enemy  had  retreated  on  finding  themselves  dis- 
covered, and  quiet  was  restored  to  the  village.  The 
w^hite  hunters  continuing  to  be  fearful  of  ranging  this 
dangerous  neighborhood,  fresh  provisions  began  to 
be  scarce  in  the  camp.  As  a  substitute,  therefore,  for 
venison  and  buffalo  meat,  the  travellers  had  to  pur- 
chase a  number  of  dogs  to  be  shot  and  cooked  for  the 
supply  of  the  camp.  Fortunately,  however  chary  the 
Indians  might  be  of  their  horses,  they  were  liberal  of 
their  dogs.  In  fact,  these  animals  swarm  about  an 
Indian  village  as  they  do  about  a  Turkish  town.  Not 
a  family  but  has  two  or  three  dozen  belonging  to  it, 
of  all  sizes  and  colors ;  some  of  a  superior  breed  an- 
used  for  hunting;  others,  to  draw  the  sledge,  while 
others,  of  a  mongrel  breed,  and  idle  vagabond  nature, 
are  fattened  for  food.  They  are  supposed  to  be  de- 
scended from  the  w'olf,  and  retain  something  of  his 
savage  but  cowardly  temper,  howling  rather  than  bark- 
ing; showing  their  teeth  and  snarling  on  the  slightest 
provocation,  but  sneaking  away  on  the  least  attack. 

The  excitement  of  the  village  continued  from  day  to 


ASTORIA 


193 


m,  or 
5  dis- 
The 
y  this 
m  to 
for 
pur- 
>r  the 
the 
al  of 
it  an 
Not 
to  it, 
i  ar^' 
,vhile 
ture, 
de- 
his 
ark- 
test 

ly  to 


day.  On  the  day  following  the  alarm  just  mentioned, 
several  parties  arrived  from  different  directions,  and 
were  met  and  conducted  by  some  of  the  braves  to  the 
council  lodge,  where  they  reported  the  events  and  suc- 
cess of  their  expeditions,  whether  of  war  or  hunting; 
which  news  was  afterwards  promulgated  Ihrc^ughout 
the  village,  by  certain  old  men  who  acted  as  heralds 
or  town  criers.  Among  the  parties  which  arrived  was 
one  that  had  been  amono:  the  Snake  nation  stealinc: 
horses,  and  returned  crowned  with  success.  As  they 
passed  in  triumph  through  the  village  they  were 
cheered  by  the  men,  women,  and  children,  collected 
as  usual  on  the  tops  of  the  lodges,  and  were  exhorted 
by  the  Nestors  of  the  village  to  be  generous  in  their 
dealings  with  the  white  men. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  feasting  and  rejoicing 
among  the  relations  of  the  successful  warriors ;  but 
the  sounds  of  grief  and  wailing  were  heard  from  the 
hills  adjacent  to  the  village  —  the  lamentations  of 
women  who  had  lost  some  relative  in  the  foray. 

An  Indian  village  is  subject  to  continual  agitations 
and  excitements.  The  next  day  arrived  a  deputation 
of  braves  from  the  Cheyenne  or  Shienne  nation;  a 
broken  tribe,  cut  up.  like  tlie  Arickaras,  by  wars  with 
the  Sioux,  and  driven  to  take  refuge  among  the  Black 
Hills,  near  the  sources  of  the  Cheyenne  River,  from 
which  they  derive  their  name.  One  of  these  deputies 
was  magnificently  arrayed  in  a  buffalo  robe,  on  which 
various  figures  were  fancifully  embroidered  with  split 
quills  dyed  red  and  yellow ;  and  the  whole  was  fringed 
with  the  slender  hoofs  of  young  faw-ns,  that  rattled 
as  he  walked. 

The  arrival  of  this  deputation  was  the  signal  for 
another  of  those  ceremonials  which  occupy  so  much 
of  Indian  life;  for  no  being  is  more  courtly  and  punc- 
tilious, and  more  observing  of  etiquette  and  formality 
than  an  American  savage. 

13 


'4 


•(•■IS 


p 


i' 


I 

i 

1 


y.  a ' 


m 


!!(te' 


194 


ASTORIA 


The  object  of  the  deputation  was  to  give  notice  of 
an  intended  visit  of  the  Shienne  (or  Cheyenne)  tribe 
to  the  Arickara  village  in  the  course  of  fifteen  days. 
To  this  visit  Air.  Hunt  looked  forward  to  procure  ad- 
ditional horses  for  his  journey ;  all  his  bargaining 
being  ineffectual  in  obtaining  a  sufficient  supply  from 
the  Arickaras.  Indeed,  nothing  could  prevail  upon 
the  latter  to  part  with  their  prime  horses,  which  had 
been  trained  to  buffalo  hunting. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  would  have  to  abandon  his  boats  at 
this  place,  Mr.  Lisa  now  offered  to  purchase  them, 
and  such  of  his  merchandise  as  was  superfluous,  and 
to  pay  him  in  horses  to  be  obtained  at  a  fort  belong- 
ing to  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  situated  at  the 
Mandan  villages,  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  fur- 
ther up  the  river.  A  bargain  was  promptly  made, 
and  Air.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Crooks,  with  several  compan- 
ions, set  out  for  the  fort  to  procure  the  horses.  They 
returned,  after  upwards  of  a  fortnight's  absence, 
bringing  with  them  the  stipulated  number  of  horses. 
Still  the  cavalry  was  not  sufficiently  numerous  to 
convey  the  party  and  baggage  and  merchandise,  and 
a  fevv^  days  more  were  required  to  complete  the  ar- 
rangements for  the  journey. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  just  before  daybreak,  a  great 
noise  and  vociferation  was  heard  in  the  village.  This 
being  the  usual  Indian  hour  of  attack  and  surprise, 
and  the  Sioux  being  known  to  be  in  the  neighborhood, 
the  camp  was  instantly  on  the  alert.  As  the  day  broke 
Indians  were  descried  in  considerable  number  on  the 
bluffs,  three  or  four  miles  down  the  river.  The  noise 
and  agitation  in  the  village  continued.  The  tops  of 
the  lodges  were  crowded  with  the  inhabitants,  all  ear- 
nestly looking  towards  the  hills,  and  keeping  up  a 
vehement  chattering.  Presently  an  Indian  warrior 
galloped  past  the  camp  towc  rds  the  village,  and  in  a 
little  while  the  1p:.,i  )ks  began  to  pour  forth. 


ASTORIA 


195 


The  truth  of  the  matter  was  now  ascertained.  The 
Indians  upon  the  distant  hills  were  three  hundred 
Arickara  braves,  returning  from  a  foray  They  had 
met  the  war  party  of  Sioux  who  had  been  so  long 
hovering  about  the  neighborhood,  had  fought  them 
the  day  before,  killed  several,  and  defeated  the  rest 
with  the  loss  of  but  two  or  three  of  their  own  men  and 
about  a  dozen  wounded;  and  they  were  now^  halting 
at  a  distance  until  their  comrades  in  the  village  should 
come  forth  to  meet  them,  and  swell  the  parade  of  their 
triumphal  entry.  The  warrior  who  had  galloped  past 
the  camp  was  the  leader  of  the  party  hastening  home 
to  give  tidings  of  his  victory. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  this  great  martial 
ceremony.  All  the  finery  and  equipments  of  the  war- 
riors were  sent  forth  to  them,  that  they  might  appear 
to  the  greatest  advantage.  Those,  too,  who  had  re- 
mained at  home,  tasked  their  wardrobes  and  toilets 
to  do  honor  to  the  procession. 

The  Arickaras  generally  go  naked,  but,  like  all  sav- 
ages, they  have  their  gala  dress,  of  which  they  are  not 
a  little  vain.  This  usually  consists  of  a  gray  surcoat 
and  leggins  of  the  dressed  skin  of  the  antelope,  re- 
sembling chamois  leather,  and  embroidered  with  por- 
cupine quills  brilliantly  dyed.  A  buffalo  robe  is 
thrown  over  the  right  shoulder,  and  across  the  left  is 
slung  a  quiver  of  arrows.  They  wear  gay  coronets  of 
plumes,  particularly  those  of  the  sw^an ;  but  the  feathers 
of  the  black  eagle  are  considered  the  most  worthy, 
being  a  sacred  bird  among  the  Indian  warriors.  He 
who  has  killed  an  enemy  in  his  own  land,  is  entitled 
to  drag  at  his  heels  a  fox-skin  attached  to  each  moc- 
casin; and  he  who  has  slain  a  grizzly  bear,  w^ears  a 
necklace  of  his  claws,  the  most  glorious  trophy  that  a 
hunter  can  exhibit. 

An  Indian  toilet  is  an  operation  of  some  toil  and 
trouble;   the  warrior  often  has  to  paint  himself  from 


%■  111' 


I' 


.'J 


:«' 


>       i 


1 1 

t:i| 


i: 


W 


t 


i 
f-!. 

»l 

•  I'i 

::j 

1 

1' 

|/: 

|: 

M 


196 


ASTORIA 


head  to  foot,  and  is  extremely  capricious  and  difficult 
to  please,  as  to  the  hideous  distribution  of  streaks  and 
colors.  A  great  part  of  the  morning,  therefore,  passed 
away  before  there  were  any  signs  of  the  distant  pag- 
eant. In  the  meantime  a  profound  stillness  reigned 
over  the  village.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  had  gone 
forth ;  others  remained  in  mute  expectation.  All  sports 
and  occupations  were  suspended,  excepting  that  in 
the  lodges  the  painstaking  squaws  were  silently  busied 
in  preparing  the  repasts  for  the  warriors. 

It  was  near  noon  that  a  mingled  sound  of  voices 
and  rude  music,  faintly  heard  from  a  distance,  gave 
notice  that  the  procession  was  on  the  march.  The  old 
men  and  such  of  the  squaws  as  could  leave  their  em- 
ployments hastened  forth  to  meet  it.  In  a  little  while 
it  emerged  from  behind  a  hill,  and  had  a  wild  and 
picturesque  appearance  as  it  came  moving  over  the 
summit  in  measured  step,  and  to  the  cadence  of  songs 
and  savage  instruments ;  the  warlike  standards  and 
trophies  flaunting  aloft,  and  the  feathers,  and  paint, 
and  silver  ornaments  of  the  warriors  glaring  and  glit- 
tering in  the  sunshine. 

The  pageant  had  really  something  chivalrous  in  its 
arrangement.  The  Arickaras  are  divided  into  several 
bands,  each  bearing  the  name  of  some  animal  or  bird, 
as  the  buffalo,  the  bear,  the  dog, .  the  pheasant.  The 
present  party  consisted  of  four  of  these  bands,  one  of 
which  was  the  dog,  the  most  esteemed  in  war,  being 
composed  of  young  men  under  thirty,  and  noted  for 
prowess.  It  is  engaged  in  the  most  desperate  occa- 
sions. The  bands  marched  in  separate  bodies  under 
their  several  leaders.  The  warriors  on  foot  came 
first,  in  platoons  of  ten  or  twelve  abreast;  then  the 
horsemen.  Each  band  bore  as  an  ensign  a  spear  or 
bow  decorated  with  beads,  porcupine  quills,  and  painted 
feathers.  Each  bore  its  trophies  of  scalps,  elevated 
on  poles,  their  long  black  locks  streaming  in  the  wind. 


ASTORIA 


197 


glit- 

n  its 

iveral 

|bird, 

The 

e  of 

^eing 

for 
)cca- 
Inder 
tame 

the 
ir  or 
Inted 
lated 
tind. 


Each  was  accompanied  by  its  rude  music  and  min- 
strelsy. In  this  way  the  procession  extended  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  The  warriors  were  variously  armed, 
some  few  with  guns,  others  with  bows  and  arrows, 
and  war-clubs ;  all  had  shields  of  buffalo  hide,  a  kind 
of  defence  generally  used  by  the  Indians  of  the  open 
prairies,  who  have  not  the  covert  of  trees  and  forests 
to  protect  them.  They  were  painted  in  the  most  savage 
style.  Some  had  the  stamp  of  a  red  hand  across  their 
mouths,  a  sign  that  they  had  drunk  the  life-blood  of 
a  foe! 

As  they  drew  near  to  the  village  the  old  men  and 
the  women  began  to  meet  them,  and  now  a  scene  en- 
sued that  proved  the  fallacy  of  the  old  fable  of  Indian 
apathy  and  stoicism.  Parents  and  children,  husbands 
and  wives,  brothers  and  sisters  met  with  the  most  rap- 
turous expressions  of  joy;  while  wailings  and  lamen- 
tations were  heard  from  the  relatives  of  the  killed  and 
wounded.  The  procession,  however,  continued  on  \\  ith 
slow  and  measured  step,  in  cadence  to  the  solemn  chant, 
and  the  warriors  maintained  their  fixed  and  stern 
demeanor. 

Between  two  of  the  principal  chiefs  rode  a  young 
warrior  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  the  battle. 
He  was  severely  wounded,  so  as  with  difficulty  to  keep 
on  his  horse;  but  he  preserved  a  serene  and  steadfast 
countenance,  as  if  perfectly  unharmed.  His  mother 
had  heard  of  his  condition.  She  broke  through  the 
throng,  and  rushing  up,  threw  her  arms  around  him 
and  wept  aloud.  He  kept  up  the  spirit  and  demeanor 
of  a  warrior  to  the  last,  but  expired  shortly  after  he 
had  reached  his  home. 

The  village  was  now  a  scene  of  the  utmost  festivity 
and  triumph.  The  banners,  and  trophies,  and  scalps, 
and  painted  shields  were  elevated  on  poles  near  the 
lodges.    There  were  war- feasts,  and  scalp-dances,  with 


/I 

ft 

:P 


31 


«) 
m 


warlike  songs 


and 


savage 


music;    all  the  inhabitants 


\m 


198 


ASTORIA 


%: 


were  arrayed  in  their  festal  dresses;  while  the  old 
heralds  went  round  from  lodge  to  lodge,  promulgating 
with  loud  voices  the  events  of  the  battle  and  the  ex- 
ploits of  the  various  warriors. 

Such  was  the  boisterous  revelry  of  the  village ;  but 
sounds  of  another  kind  were  heard  on  the  surrounding 
hills;  piteous  vvailings  of  the  women,  who  had  retired 
thither  to  mourn  in  darkness  and  solitude  for  those 
who  had  fallen  in  battle.  There  the  poor  mother  of 
the  youthful  warrior  who  had  returned  home  in  tri- 
umph but  to  die,  gave  full  vent  to  the  anguish  of  a 
mother's  heart.  How  much  does  this  custom  among 
the  Indian  women  of  repairing  '•o  the  hill-tops  in  the 
night,  and  pouring  forth  their  wailings  for  the  dead, 
call  to  mind  the  beautiful  and  affecting  passage  of 
Scripture,  *'  In  Rama  was  there  a  voice  heard,  lamen- 
tation, and  weeping,  and  great  mourning,  Rachel  weep- 
ing for  her  children,  and  would  not  be  comforted,  be- 
cause they  are  not." 


CHAPTER   XXII 


While  Mr.  Hunt  was  diligently  preparing  for  his 
arduous  journey,  some  of  his  men  began  to  lose  heart 
at  the  perilous  prospect  before  tliem ;  but  before  we 
Ticcuse  them  of  want  of  spirit,  it  is  proper  to  consider 
the  nature  of  the  wilderness  into  which  they  were  about 
to  adventure.  It  was  a  region  almost  as  vast  and 
trackless  as  the  ocean,  and.  at  the  time  of  which  we 
treat,  but  little  known,  excepting  through  the  vague 
accounts  of  Indian  hunters.  A  part  of  their  route 
would  lay  across  pn  immense  tract,  stretching  north 
and  south  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  foot  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  drained  by  the  tributarv 
streams  of  the   Missouri  and  the  ]\Iississippi.     This 


ASTORIA 


199 


re*,'it)n 


Lgue 


w  hicli  resembles  one  <^  t.e  Jmiucasiirable 
steppe,  of  Asia  has  iv'  inaptly  been  ti-Miied  *'  the  great 
American  desert."  1.  pread  forth  into  undulating 
and  treeless  plains,  r  1  deso  .te  sandy  wastes  weari- 
some to  the  eye  froiii  heir  extent  and  monotony,  and 
which  are  supposed  by  geologists  to  have  formed  the 
ancient  floor  of  the  ocean,  countless  ages  since,  when 
its  primeval  waves  beat  against  the  granite  bases  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

It  is  a  land  where  no  man  permanently  abides ;  for, 
in  certain  seasons  of  the  year  there  is  no  food  either 
for  the  hunter  or  his  steed.  The  herbage  is  parched 
and  withered;  the  brooks  and  streams  are  dried  up; 
the  buffalo,  the  elk,  and  the  deer  have  wandered  to 
distant  parts,  keeping  within  the  verge  of  expiring 
verdure,  and  leaving  behind  them  a  vast  uninhabited 
solitude,  seamed  by  ravines,  the  beds  of  former  tor- 
rents, but  now  serving  only  to  tantalize  and  increase 
the  thirst  of  the  traveller. 

Occasionally  the  monotony  of  this  vast  wilderness 
is  interrupted  by  mountainous  belts  of  sand  and  lime- 
stone, broken  into  confused  masses;  with  precipitous 
cliffs  and  yawning  ravines,  looking  like  the  ruins  of 
a  world ;  or  is  traversed  by  lofty  and  barren  ridges 
of  rock,  almost  impassable,  like  those  denominated  the 
Black  Hills.  Beyond  these  rise  the  stern  barriers  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  limits,  as  it  were,  of  the 
Atlantic  world.  The  rugged  defiles  and  deep  valleys 
of  this  vast  chain  form  sheltering  places  for  restless 
and  ferocious  bands  of  savages,  many  of  them  the  rem- 
nants of  tribes,  once  inhabitants  of  the  prairies,  but 
broken  up  by  war  and  violence,  and  who  carry  into 
their  mountain  haunts  the  fierce  passions  and  reckless 
habits  of  desperadoes. 

Such  is  the  nature  of  this  immense  wilderness  of 
the  far  West ;  which  apparently  defies  cultivation,  and 
the  habitation  of  civilized  life.     Some  portions  of  it 


A\ 


■ill 


i^ 

^u 


J« 


^1 
r 

i 


200 


ASTORIA 


II 


y.i'y. 


Il 


i 

II  I 


^i: 


alonjT^  the  rivers  may  partially  be  siibdited  by  apfri- 
culture,  others  may  form  vast  pastoral  tracts,  like  those 
of  the  East;  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  a  great  part  of 
it  will  form  a  lawless  interval  between  the  abodes  of 
civilized  man,  like  the  wastes  of  the  ocean  or  the  deserts 
of  Arabia,  and,  like  them,  be  subject  to  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  marauder.  Here  may  spring  up  new  and 
mongrel  races,  like  new  formations  in  geology,  the 
amalgamation  of  the  "debris"  and  "  iibrasions "  of 
former  races,  civilized  and  savage;  the  remains  of 
broken  and  almost  extinguished  tribes ;  the  descend- 
ants of  wandering  hunters  and  trappers;  of  fugitives 
from  the  Spanish  and  American  frontiers;  of  adven- 
turers and  desperadoes  of  every  class  and  country, 
yearly  ejected  from  the  bosom  of  society  into  the 
wilderness.  We  are  contributing  incessantly  to  swell 
this  singular  and  heterogeneous  cloud  of  wild  popu- 
lation that  is  to  hang  about  our  frontier,  by  the  trans- 
fer of  whole  tribes  from  the  east  of  the  Mississippi  to 
the  great  wastes  of  the  far  West.  Many  of  these 
bear  with  them  the  smart  of  real  or  fancied  injuries; 
many  consider  themselves  expatriated  beings,  wrong- 
fully exiled  from  their  hereditary  homes,  and  the 
sepulchres  of  their  fathers,  and  cherish  a  deep  and 
abiding  animosity  against  the  race  that  has  dispos- 
sessed them.  Some  may  gradually  become  pastoral 
hordes,  like  those  rude  and  migratory  people,  half 
shepherd,  half  warrior,  who,  with  their  flecks  and 
herds,  roam  the  plains  of  upper  Asia ;  but  others,  it  is  to 
be  apprehended,  will  become  predatory  bands,  mounted 
on  the  fleet  steeds  of  the  prairies,  w^ith  the  open 
plains  for  their  marauding  grounds,  and  the  moun- 
tains for  their  retreats  and  lurking-places.  Here  they 
may  resemble  those  great  hordes  of  the  North,  "  Gog 
and  Magog  with  their  bands,"  that  haunted  the  gloomy 
imaginations  of  the  prophets.  "  A  great  company  and 
a  mighty  host,  all  riding  upon  horses,  and  warring 


ASTORIA 


201 


"les; 
iig- 
the 
and 

)OS- 

oral 
lalf 
and 
s  to 
ited 
)pen 
3un- 
;hey 
log 
)my 
and 
-ing 


upon  those  nations  wliicli  were  at  rest,  and  dwelt  peace- 
ably, and  had  gotten  cattle  and  goods." 

The  Spaniards  changed  the  whole  character  and 
habits  of  the  Indians  when  they  brought  the  horse 
among  them.  In  Chili,  Tucuman,  and  other  parts,  it 
has  converted  them,  we  are  told,  into  Tartar-like  tribes, 
and  enabled  them  to  keep  the  Spaniards  out  of  their 
country,  and  even  to  make  it  dangerous  for  them  to 
venture  far  from  their  towns  and  settlements.  Are  we 
not  in  danger  of  producing  some  such  state  of  things 
in  the  boundless  regions  of  the  far  West?  That  these 
are  not  mere  fanciful  and  extravagant  suggestions  we 
have  sufficient  proofs  in  the  dangers  already  experi- 
enced by  the  traders  to  the  Spanish  mart  of  Santa  Fe, 
and  to  the  distant  posts  of  the  fur  companies.  These 
are  obliged  to  proceed  in  armed  caravans,  and  are 
subject  to  murderous  attacks  from  bands  of  Pawnees, 
Camanches,  and  Black  feet,  that  come  scouring  upon 
them  in  their  weary  march  across  the  plains,  or  lie  in 
wait  for  them  among  the  passes  of  the  mountains. 

We  are  wandering,  however,  into  excursive  specu- 
lations, when  our  intention  was  merely  to  give  an  idea 
of  th'e  nature  of  the  wilderness  which  Mr.  Hunt  was 
about  to  traverse ;  and  which  at  that  time  was  far  less 
known  than  at  present;  though  it  still  remains  in  a 
great  measure  an  unknown  land.  We  cannot  be  sur- 
prised, therefore,  that  some  of  the  least  resolute  of  his 
party  should  feel  dismay  at  the  thoughts  of  adventur- 
ing into  this  perilous  wilderness  under  the  uncertain 
guidance  of  three  hunters,  who  had  merely  passed 
once  through  the  country  and  might  have  forgotten 
the  landmarks.  Their  apprehensions  were  aggravated 
by  some  of  Lisa's  followers,  who,  not  being  engaged 
in  the  expedition,  took  a  mischievous  pleasure  in  ex- 
aggerating its  dangers.  They  painted  in  strong  colors, 
to  the  poor  Canadian  voyageurs,  the  risk  they  would 
run  of  perishing  with  hunger  and  thirst ;  of  being  cut 


.:    I' 


■Ill) 


■  > 


Ik 


till'  • 


202 


ASTORIA 


1 


off  by  war  parties  of  the  Sioux  who  scoured  the  plains ; 
of  having  their  horses  stolen  by  the  Upsarokas  or 
Crows,  who  infested  the  skirts  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains ;  or  of  being"  butchered  by  the  Blackfeet,  who 
lurked  among  the  defiles.  In  a  word,  there  was  little 
chance  of  their  getting  alive  across  the  mountains ;  and 
even  if  they  did.  those  three  guides  knew  nothing  of 
the  howling  wilderness  that  lay  beyond. 

The  apprehensions  thus  awakened  in  the  minds  of 
some  of  the  men  came  well  nigh  proving  detrimental 
to  the  expedition.  Some  of  them  determined  to  desert, 
and  to  make  their  way  back  to  St.  Louis.  They  ac- 
cordingly purloined  several  weapons  and  a  barrel  of 
gunpowder,  as  ammunition  for  their  enterprise,  and 
buried  them  in  the  river  bank,  intending  to  seize  one  of 
the  boats,  and  make  off  in  the  niglit.  Fortunately  their 
plot  was  overheard  by  John  Day,  the  Kentuckian,  and 
communicated  to  the  partners,  who  took  quiet  and 
effectual  means  to  frustrate  it. 

The  dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  the  Crow  In- 
dians had  not  been  overrated  by  the  camp  gossips. 
These  savages,  through  whose  mountain  haunts  the 
party  would  have  to  pass,  were  noted  for  daring  and 
excursive  habits,  and  great  dexterity  in  horse  stealing. 
Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  considered  himself  fortunate  in 
having  met  with  a  man  who  might  be  of  great  use  to 
him  in  any  intercourse  he  might  have  with  the  tribe. 
This  was  a  wandering  individual  named  Edward  Rose, 
whom  he  had  picked  up  somewhere  on  the  Missouri 
—  one  of  those  anomalous  beings  found  on  the  fron- 
tier, who  seem  to  have  neither  kin  nor  country. 
He  had  lived  some  time  among  the  Crows,  so  as 
to  become  acquainted  with  their  language  and  cus- 
toms; and  was,  withal,  a  dogged,  sullen,  silent  fel- 
low, with  a  sinister  aspect,  and  more  of  the  savage 
than  the  civilized  man  in  his  appearance.  He  was  en- 
gaged to  serve  in  general  as  a  hunter,  but  as  guide  and 


ASTORIA 


203 


of 


In- 


:  in 
;  to 
ibe. 
ose, 
ouri 
ron- 
iti-y. 
as 
cus- 
fel- 
/age 
en- 
and 


Interpreter  when  they  should  reach  the  country  of 
the  Crows. 

On  the  1 8th  of  July,  Mr.  Hunt  took  up  his  line 
of  march  by  land  from  the  Arickara  village,  leaving 
Mr.  Lisa  and  Mr.  Nuttall  there,  where  they  intended 
to  await  the  expected  arrival  of  Mr.  Henry  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  As  to  Messrs.  Bradbury  and 
Breckenridge  they  had  departed  some  days  previously, 
on  a  voyage  down  the  river  to  St.  Louis,  with  a  detach- 
ment from  Mr.  Lisa's  party.  With  all  his  exertions, 
Mr.  Hunt  had  been  unable  to  obtain  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  horses  for  the  accommodation  of  all  his  people. 
His  cavalcade  consisted  of  eighty-two  horses,  most  of 
them  heavily  laden  with  Indian  goods,  beaver  traps, 
ammunition,  Indian  corn,  corn  meal  and  other  neces- 
saries. Each  of  the  partners  was  mounted,  and  a 
horse  was  allotted  to  the  interpreter,  Pierre  Dorion,  for 
the  transportation  of  his  luggage  and  his  two  children. 
His  squaw,  for  the  most  part  of  the  time,  trudged  on 
foot,  like  the  residue  of  the  party;  nor  did  any  of  the 
men  show  more  patience  and  fortitude  than  this  reso- 
lute woman  in  enduring  fatigue  and  hardship. 

The  veteran  trappers  and  voyageurs  of  Lisa's  party 
shook  their  heads  as  their  comrades  set  out,  and  took 
leave  of  them  as  of  doomed  men ;  and  even  Lisa  him- 
self gave  it  as  his  opinion,  after  the  travellers  had  de- 
parted, they  would  never  reach  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  but  would  either  perish  with  hunger  in  the 
wilderness,  or  be  cut  off  by  the  savages. 


CHAPTER    XXIII 

The  course  taken  by  Mr.  Hunt  was  at  first  to  the 
northwest,  but  soon  turned  and  kept  generally  to  the 
southwest,  to  avoid  the  country  infested  by  the  Black- 
feet.    His  route  took  him  across  some  of  the  tributary 


It  '!  '< 


i  ■■' 


I' 


«) 

I' 

a 

a 


II 


m 


n\ 


204 


ASTORIA 


W' 


'ft 


streams  of  the  Missouri,  and  over  immense  prairies, 
bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  and  destitute  of  trees. 
It  was  now  the  height  of  summer,  and  these  naked 
plains  would  be  intolerable  to  the  traveller  were  it  not 
for  the  breezes  w.hich  sweep  over  them  during  the 
fervor  of  the  day,  bringing  with  them  tempering  airs 
from  the  distant  mountains.  To  the  prevalence  of 
these  breezes,  and  to  the  want  of  all  leafy  covert,  may 
we  also  attribute  the  freedom  from  those  flies  and 
other  insects  so  tormenting  to  man  and  beast  during 
the  summer  months,  in  the  lower  plains,  which  are 
bordered  and  interspersed  with  woodland. 

The  monotony  of  these  immense  landscapes,  also, 
would  be  as  wearisome  as  that  of  the  ocean  were  it 
not  relieved  in  some  degree  by  the  purity  and  elastic- 
ity of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  beauty  of  the  heavens. 
The  sky  has  that  delicious  blue  for  which  the  sky  of 
Italy  is  renowned;  the  sun  shines  with  a  splendor  un- 
obscured  by  any  cloud  or  vapor,  and  a  starlight  night 
on  the  prairies  is  glorious.  This  purity  and  elasticity 
of  atmosphere  increases  as  the  traveller  approaches 
the  mountains  and  gradually  rises  into  more  elevated 
prairies. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  journey.  Mr.  Hunt  ar- 
ranged the  party  into  small  and  convenient  messes, 
distributing  among  them  the  camp  kettles.  The  en- 
campments at  night  were  as  before;  some  sleeping 
under  tents,  and  others  bivouacking  in  the  open  air. 
The  Canadians  proved  as  patient  of  toil  and  hard- 
ship on  the  land  as  on  the  water ;  indeed,  nothing  could 
surpass  the  patience  and  good-humor  of  these  men 
upon  the  march.  They  were  the  cheerful  drudges  of 
the  party,  loading  and  unloading  the  horses,  pitching 
the  tents,  making  the  fires,  cooking;  in  short,  perform- 
ing all  those  household  and  menial  offices  which  the 
Indians  usually  assign  to  the  squaws;  and,  like  the 
squaws,  they  left  all  the  hunting  and  fighting  to  others. 


ASTORIA 


205 


iping 
air. 
lard- 
:ould 
men 
js  of 
phing 
lorm- 
the 
the 
Ihers. 


A  Canadian  has  but  httle  affection  for  the  exercise 
of  the  rifle. 

The  progress  of  the  party  was  but  slow  for  the  first 
few  days.  Some  of  the  men  were  indisposed;  Mr. 
Crooks,  especially,  was  so  unwell  that  he  could  not 
keep  on  his  horse.  A  rude  kind  of  litter  was,  there- 
fore, prepared  for  him,  consisting  of  two  long  poles, 
fixed,  one  on  each  side  of  two  horses,  with  a  matting 
between  them,  on  which  he  reclined  at  full  length,  and 
was  protected  from  the  sun  by  a  canopy  of  boughs. 

On  the  evening  of  the  23d  (July)  they  encamped 
on  the  banks  of  what  they  term  Big  River;  and  here 
we  cannot  but  pause  to  lament  the  stupid,  common- 
place, and  often  ribald  names  entailed  upon  the  rivers 
and  other  features  of  the  great  West,  by  traders  and 
settlers.  As  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  these  magnificent 
regions  are  yet  in  existence,  the  Indian  names  might 
easily  be  recovered ;  which,  beside  being  in  general 
more  sonorous  and  musical,  would  remain  mementoes 
of  the  primitive  lords  of  the  soil,  of  w^hom  in  a  little 
while  scarce  any  traces  will  be  left.  Indeed,  it  is  to 
be  wished  that  the  whole  of  our  country  could  be 
rescued,  as  much  as  possible,  from  the  wretched  no- 
menclature inflicted  upon  it,  by  ignorant  and  vulgar 
minds ;  and  this  might  be  done,  in  a  great  degree,  by 
restoring  the  Indian  names,  wherever  significant  and 
euphonious.  As  there  appears  to  be  a  spirit  of  re- 
search abroad  in  respect  to  our  aboriginal  antiquities, 
we  would  suggest,  as  a  worthy  object  of  enterprise, 
a  map,  or  maps,  of  every  part  of  our  country,  giving 
the  Indian  names  wherever  they  could  be  ascertained. 
Whoever  achieves  such  an  object  worthily,  will  leave 
a  monument  to  his  own  reputation. 

To  return  from  this  digression.  As  the  travellers 
were  now  in  a  country  abounding  with  buffalo,  they 
remained  for  several  days  encamped  upon  the  banks 
of  Big  River,  to  obtain  a  supply  of  provisions,  and  to 
give  the  invalids  time  to  recruit. 


„  r1 


..■4 


1 


■-'  4. 


2' 


2o6 


ASTORIA 


On  the  second  day  of  dieir  sojourn,  as  Ben  Jones, 
John  Day,  and  others  of  the  hunters  were  in  pursuit 
of  game,  they  came  upon  an  Indian  camp  on  the  open 
prairie,  near  to  a  small  stream  which  ran  through  a 
ravine.  The  tents  or  lodges  were  of  dressed  buffalo 
skins,  sewn  together  and  stretched  on  tapering  pine 
poles,  joined  at  top,  but  radiating  at  bottom,  so  as  to 
form  a  circle  capable  of  admitting  fifty  persons.  Num- 
bers of  horses  were  grazing  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
camp,  or  straying  at  large  in  the  prairie ;  a  sight  most 
acceptable  to  the  hunters.  After  reconnoitring  the 
camp  for  some  time,  they  ascertained  it  to  belong  to 
a  band  of  Cheyenne  Indians,  the  same  that  had  sent 
a  deputation  to  the  Arickaras.  They  received  the  hunt- 
ers in  the  most  friendly  manner;  invited  them  to 
their  lodges,  which  were  more  cleanly  than  Indian 
lodges  are  prone  to  be,  and  set  food  before  them  with 
true  uncivilized  hospitality.  Several  of  them  accom- 
panied the  hunters  back  to  the  camp,  when  a  trade  was 
immediately  opened.  The  Cheyennes  were  astonished 
and  delighted  to  find  a  convoy  of  goods  and  trinkets 
thus  brought  into  the  very  heart  of  the  prairie;  while 
]\Ir.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  overjoyed  to  have 
an  opportunity  of  obtaining  a  further  supply  of  horses 
from  these  equestrian  savages. 

During  a  fortnight  that  the  travellers  lingered  at 
this  place,  dieir  encampment  was  continually  thronged 
by  the  Cheyennes.  They  were  a  civil,  well-behaved 
people,  cleanly  in  their  persons  and  decorous  in  their 
habits.  The  men  were  tall,  straight  and  vigorous,  with 
aquiline  noses,  and  high  cheek  bones.  Some  were  al- 
most as  naked  as  ancient  statues,  and  might  have 
stood  as  models  for  a  statuary;  others  had  leggins 
and  moccasins  of  deer-skin,  and  buffalo  robes,  which 
they  threw  gracefully  over  their  shoulders.  In  a  little 
while,  however,  they  began  to  appear  in  more  gorgeous 
array,  tricked  out  in  the  finery  obtained  from  the  white 


ASTORIA 


207 


men;  bright  cloths,  brass  rings,  beads  of  various 
colors;  and  happy  was  he  who  could  render  himself 
hideous  with  vermilion. 

The  travellers  had  frequent  occasion  to  admire  the 
skill  and  grace  with  which  these  Indians  managed 
their  horses.  Some  of  them  made  a  striking  display 
when  mounted;  themselves  and  their  steeds  decorated 
in  gala  style;  for  the  Indians  often  bestow  more 
finery  upon  their  horses  than  upon  themselves.  Some 
would  hang  around  the  necks,  or  rather  on  the  breasts 
of  their  horses,  the  most  precious  ornaments  they  had 
obtained  from  the  white  men ;  others  interwove  feath- 
ers in  their  manes  and  tails.  The  Indian  horses,  too, 
appear  to  have  an  attachment  to  their  wild  riders, 
and  indeed  it  is  said  that  the  horses  of  the  prairies 
readily  distinguish  an  Indian  from  a  white  man  by 
the  smell,  and  give  a  preference  to  the  former.  Yet 
the  Indians,  in  general,  are  hard  riders,  and,  however 
they  may  value  their  horses,  treat  them  with  great 
roughness  and  neglect.  Occasionally  the  Cheyennes 
joined  the  white  hunters  in  pursuit  of  the  elk  and 
buffalo;  and  when  in  the  ardor  of  the  chase,  spared 
neither  themselves  nor  their  steeds,  scouring  the  prairies 
at  full  speed,  and  plunging  down  precipices  and  fright- 
ful ravines  that  threatened  the  necks  of  both  horse  and 
horseman.  The  Indian  steed,  well  trained  to  the  chase, 
seems  as  mad  as  his  rider,  and  pursues  the  game  as 
eagerly  as  if  it  were  his  natural  prey,  on  the  flesh  of 
which  he  was  to  banquet. 

The  history  of  the  Cheyennes  is  that  of  many  of 
those  wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies.  They  were  the 
remnant  of  a  once  powerful  people  called  the  Shaways, 
inhabiting  a  branch  of  the  Red  River  which  flows 
into  Lake  Winnipeg.  Every  Indian  tribe  has  some 
rival  tribe  with  which  it  wages  implacable  hostility. 
The  deadly  enemies  of  the  Shaways  were  the  Sioux, 
who,  after  a  long  course  of  warfare,  proved  too  power- 


"i 


1  < 


ii 


i  I 


m 


208 


ASTORIA 


i  i 


i  ■ 


n 


fill  for  them,  and  drove  them  across  the  Missouri. 
They  ag^ain  took  root  near  the  Warricanne  Creek,  and 
estabhshed  themselves  the  ^  in  a  fortified  village. 

The  Sioux  still  followed  them  with  deadly  ani- 
mosity; dislodged  them  from  their  village,  and  com- 
pelled them  to  take  refuge  in  the  Black  Hills,  near  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Sheyenne  or  Cheyenne  River. 
Here  they  lost  even  their  name,  and  became  known 
among  the  French  colonists  by  that  of  the  river  they 
frequented. 

The  heart  of  the  tribe  was  now  broken;  its  num- 
bers were  greatly  thinned  by  their  harassing  wars. 
They  no  longer  attempted  to  establish  themselves  in 
any  permanent  abode  that  might  be  an  object  of  at- 
tack to  their  cruel  foes.  They  gave  up  the  cultivation 
of  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  and  became  a  wandering 
tribe,  subsisting  by  the  chase,  and  following  the  buffalo 
in  its  migrations. 

Their  only  possessions  were  horses,  which  they 
caught  on  the  prairies,  or  reared,  or  captured  on  pred- 
atory incursions  into  the  Mexican  territories,  as  has 
already  been  mentioned.  With  some  of  these  they 
repaired  once  a  year  to  the  Arickara  villages,  ex- 
changed them  for  corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  articles 
of  European  merchandise,  and  then  returned  into  the 
heart  of  the  prairies. 

Such  are  the  fluctuating  fortunes  of  these  savage 
nations.  War,  famine,  pestilence,  together  or  singly, 
bring  down  their  strength  and  thin  their  numbers. 
\\'hole  tribes  are  rooted  up  from  their  native  places, 
wander  for  a  time  about  these  immense  regions,  be- 
come amalgamated  with  other  tribes,  or  disappear 
from  the  face  of  the  earth.  There  appears  to  be  a 
tendency  to  extinction  among  all  the  savage  nations; 
and  this  tendency  would  seem  to  have  been  in  operation 
among  the  aboriginals  of  this  country  long  before 
the  advent  of  the  white  men.  if  we  may  judge  from 


ASTORIA 


2og 


the  traces  and  traditions  of  ancient  populonsness  in 
regions  which  were  silent  and  deserted  at  the  time  of 
the  discovery;  and  from  the  mysterious  and  perplex- 
ing vestiges  of  unknown  races,  predecessors  of  those 
found  in  actual  possession,  and  who  must  long  since 
have  become  gradually  extinguished  or  been  destroyed. 
The  whole  history  of  the  aboriginal  population  of  this 
country,  however,  is  an  enigma,  and  a  grand  one  — 
will  it  ever  be  solved? 


they 

ipred- 

has 

they 

ex- 

Iticles 

the 


igJ 


CHAPTER   XXIV 

On  the  sixth  of  August  the  travellers  bade  farewell 
to  the  friendly  band  of  Cheyennes,  and  resumed  their 
journey.  As  they  had  ol)tP.ined  thirty-six  additional 
horses  by  their  recent  traffic,  Mr.  Hunt  made  a  new 
arrangement.  The  baggage  was  made  up  in  smaller 
loads.  A  horse  was  allotted  to  each  of  the  six  prime 
hunters,  and  others  were  distributed  among  the  voy- 
ageurs,  a  horse  for  every  two,  so  that  they  could  ride 
and  walk  alternately.  Mr.  Crooks  being  still  too  feeble 
to  mount  the  saddle,  was  carried  on  a  litter. 

Their  march  this  day  lay  among  singular  hills  and 
knolls  of  an  indurated  red  earth,  resembling  brick, 
about  the  bases  of  which  were  scattered  pumice  stones 
and  cinders,  the  whole  bearing  traces  of  the  action  of 
fire.  In  the  evening  they  encamped  on  a  branch  of 
Big  River. 

They  w^ere  now  out  of  the  tract  of  country  infested 
by  the  Sioux,  and  had  advanced  such  a  distance  into 
the  interior  that  Mr.  Hunt  no  longer  felt  apprehensive 
of  the  desertion  of  any  of  his  men.  He  was  doomed, 
however,  to  experience  new  cause  of  anxiety.  As  he 
was  seated  in  his  tent  after  nightfall,  one  of  the  men 
came  to  him  privately,  and  informed  him  that  there 
was  mischief  brewing  in  the  camp.  Edward  Rose, 
the  interpreter,  whose  sinister  looks  we  have  already 

14 


r 


i     l 


2IO 


ASTORIA 


U'H 


mentioned,  was  denounced  by  this  secret  informer  as 
a  designing,  treacherous  scoundrel,  who  was  tamper- 
ing with  the  fidehty  of  certain  of  the  men,  and  insti- 
gating them  to  a  flagrant  piece  of  treason.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  days  they  would  arrive  at  the  moun- 
tainous district  infested  by  the  Upsarokas  or  Crows, 
the  tribe  among  which  Rose  w^as  to  officiate  as  inter- 
preter. His  plan  was  that  several  of  the  men  should 
join  with  him,  when  in  that  neighborhood,  in  carrying 
ofif  a  number  of  the  horses  with  their  packages  of 
goods,  and  deserting  to  those  savages.  He  assured 
them  of  good  treatment  among  the  Crows,  the  princi- 
pal chiefs  and  warriors  of  whom  he  knew ;  they  would 
soon  become  great  men  among  them,  and  have  the 
finest  women  and  the  daughters  of  the  chiefs  for 
wives;  and  the. horses  and  goods  they  carried  off  would 
make  them  rich  for  life. 

The  intelligence  of  this  treachery  on  the  part  of 
Rose  gave  much  disquiet  to  Mr.  Hunt,  for  he  knew 
not  how  far  it  might  be  effective  among  his  men. 
He  had  already  had  proofs  that  several  of  them  were 
disaffected  to  the  enterprise,  and  loth  to  cross  the 
mountains.  He  knew  also  that  savage  life  had  charms 
for  many  of  them,  especially  the  Canadians,  who  were 
prone  to  intermarry  and  domesticate  themselves  among 
the  Indians. 

And  here  a  word  or  two  concerning  the  Crows  may 
be  of  service  to  the  reader,  as  they  will  figure  occasion- 
ally in  the  succeeding  narration. 

The  tribe  consists  of  four  bands,  which  have  their 
nestling-places  in  fertile,  well-wooded  valleys,  lying 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Big 
Horse  River  and  its  tributary  streams;  but,  though 
these  are  properly  their  homes,  where  they  shelter  their 
old  people,  their  wives,  and  their  children,  the  men  of 
the  tribe  are  almost  continually  on  the  foray  and  the 
scamper.     They  are,  in  fact,  notorious  marauders  and 


ASTORIA 


211 


heir 

ying 

Big 

DUgh 

their 
of 
the 
and 


n 


horsc-slealerr. ;  crossing  and  recrossing  the  mountains, 
rubbing  on  the  one  side,  and  conveying  their  spoils 
to  the  other.  Hence,  we  are  told,  is  derived  their  name, 
given  to  them  on  account  of  their  unsettled  and  pred- 
atory habits;  winging  their  thght,  like  the  crows, 
from  one  side  of  the  mountains  to  the  other,  and  mak- 
ing free  booty  of  every  thing  that  lies  in  their  way. 
Horses,  however,  are  the  especial  objects  of  their 
depredations,  and  their  skill  and  audacity  in  stealing 
them  are  said  to  be  astonishing.  This  is  their  glory 
and  delight ;  an  accomplished  horse-stealer  fills  up 
their  idea  of  a  hero.  JMany  horses  are  oljtained  by 
them,  also,  in  barter  from  tribes  in  and  beyond  the 
mountains.  They  have  an  a])solute  passion  for  this 
noble  animal ;  beside  which  he  is  with  them  an  im- 
portant object  of  traffic.  Once  a  year  they  make  a 
visit  to  the  Mandans,  Minatarees,  and  other  tribes  of 
the  Missouri,  taking  with  them  droves  of  horses  which 
they  exchange  for  guns,  ammunition,  trinkets,  ver- 
milion, cloths  of  bright  colors,  and  various  other  ar- 
ticles of  European  manufacture.  With  these  they 
supply  their  own  wants  and  caprices,  and  carry  on  the 
internal  trade  for  horses  already  mentioned. 

The  plot  of  Rose  to  rob  and  abandon  his  country- 
men when  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  and  to  throw 
himself  into  the  hands  of  a  horde  of  savages,  may 
appear  strange  and  improbable  to  those  unacquainted 
with  the  singular  and  anomalous  characters  that  are 
to  be  found  about  the  borders.  This  fellow,  it  appears, 
was  one  of  those  desperadoes  of  the  frontiers,  out- 
lawed by  their  crimes,  who  combine  the  vices  of  civil- 
ized and  savage  life,  and  are  ten  times  more  barbarous 
than  the  Indians  with  whom  they  consort.  Rose  had 
formerly  belonged  to  one  of  the  gangs-e^-pirates-^vvho 
infested  the  islands  of  the  M^^s^jpjtj^Vfili'dXft^i^JaiJ^ 
boats  as  they  went  up  and  d( 
sometimes  shifted  the  scene 


tne  river,  and  wnit) 


)^ie^,  tg  die 


/- 


^c>, 


^ORIA,  ^ 


r1 
/I 


s 


212 

*^   k.  Art 


ASTORIA 


shore,  waylaying  travellers  as  they  returned  by  land 
from  New  Orleans  with  the  proceeds  of  their  down- 
ward voyage,  plundering  them  of  their  money  and 
effects,  and  often  perpetrating  the  most  atrocious 
murders. 

These  hordes  of  villains  being  broken  up  and  dis- 
persed. Rose  had  betaken  himself  to  the  wilderness, 
and  associated  himself  with  the  Crows,  whose  preda- 
tory habits  were  congenial  with  his  own,  had  married 
a  woman  of  the  tribe,  and,  in  short,  had  identified  him- 
self with  those  vagrant  savages. 

Such  was  the  worthy  guide  and  interpreter,  Edward 
Rose.  We  give  his  story,  however,  not  as  it  was  known 
to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  at  the  time,  but  as  it 
has  been  subsequently  ascertained.  Enough  was  known 
of  the  fellow  and  his  dark  and  perfidious  character  to 
put  Mr.  Hunt  upon  his  guard :  still,  as  there  was  no 
knowing  how  far  his  plans  might  have  succeeded,  and 


as   any   rash   act 


might 


blow   the  mere   smoulderins: 


sparks  of  treason  into  a  sudden  blaze,  it  was  thought 
advisable  by  those  with  whom  Mr.  Hunt  consulted, 
to  conceal  all  knowledge  or  suspicion  of  the  meditated 
treachery,  but  to  keep  up  a  vigilant  watch  upon  the 
movements  of  Rose,  and  a  strict  guard  upon  the  horses 
at  night. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

The  plains  over  wdiich  the  travellers  were  journeymg 
continued  to  be  destitute  of  trees  or  even  shrubs;  in- 
somuch that  they  had  to  use  the  dung  of  the  buffalo 
for  fuel,  as  the  Arabs  of  the  desert  use  that  of  the 
camel.  This  substitute  for  fuel  is  universal  among  the 
Indians  of  these  upper  prairies,  and  is  said  to  make  a 
fire  equal  to  that  of  turf.  If  a  few  chips  are  added, 
it  throws  out  a  cheerful  and  kindly  blaze. 


ASTORIA 


213 


These  plains,  liowever,  had  not  always  been  equally 
destitute  of  wood,  as  was  evident  from  the  trunks  of 
the  trees  which  the  travellers  repeatedly  met  with, 
some  still  standing,  others  lying  about  in  broken  frag- 
ments, but  all  in  a  fossil  state,  having  flourished  in 
times  long  past.  In  these  singular  remains,  the  origi- 
nal grain  of  the  wood  was  still  so  distinct  that  they 
could  be  ascertained  to  be  the  ruins  of  oak  trees.  Sev- 
eral pieces  of  the  fossil  wood  were  selected  by  the  men 
to  serve  as  whetstones. 

In  this  part  of  the  journey  there  was  no  lack  of  pro- 
visions, for  the  prairies  were  covered  with  immense 
herds  of  bufTalo.  These,  in  general,  are  animals  of 
peaceful  demeanor,  grazing  quietly  like  domestic 
cattle;  but  this  was  the  season  when  they  are  in  heat, 
and  when  the  bulls  are  usually  fierce  and  pugnacious. 
There  was  accordingly  a  universal  restlessness  and 
commotion  throughout  the  plain ;  and  the  amorous 
herds  gave  utterance  to  their  feelings  in  low  bellow- 
ings  that  resounded  like  distant  thunder.  Here  and 
there  fierce  duellos  took  place  between  rival  enamo- 
rados;  butting  their  huge  shagged  fronts  together, 
goring  each  other  with  their  short  black  horns,  and 
tearing  up  the  earth  with  their  feet  in  perfect  fury. 

In  one  of  the  evening  halts,  Pierre  Dorion,  the  in- 
terpreter, together  with  Carson  and  Gardpie,  two  of 
the  hunters,  were  missing,  nor  had  they  returned  by 
morning.  As  it  was  supposed  they  had  wandered 
away  in  pursuit  of  bufifalo,  and  would  readily  find  the 
track  of  the  party,  no  solicitude  was  felt  on  their  ac- 
count. A  fire  was  left  burning,  to  guide  them  by  its 
column  of  smoke,  and  the  travellers  proceeded  on  their 
march.  In  the  evening  a  signal-fire  was  made  on  a 
hill  adjacent  to  the  camp,  and  in  the  morning  it  was 
replenished  with  fuel  so  as  to  last  throughout  the  day. 
These  signals  are  usual  among  the  Indians,  to  give 
warnings  to  each  other,  or  to  call  home  straggling 


V  'ri 


SI 


JJ. 


m 


i  1 


■t  I 
t  ■ 

■1  ■ 


214 


ASTORIA 


lh~ 


hunters;  and  such  is  the  transparency  of  tlie  atmos- 
pliere  in  those  elevated  i)lains,  that  a  shj^ht  cohnnn 
of  smoke  can  be  (hsccrned  from  a  .q;reat  (hstance,  par- 
ticuhirly  in  the  evcninj^s.  Two  or  three  days  elapsed, 
however,  without  the  reappearance  of  the  three  hunters; 
and  Mr.  Hunt  slackened  his  march  to  give  them  time 
to  overtake  him. 

A  vigilant  watch  continued  to  be  kept  upon  the  move- 
ments of  Rose,  and  of  such  of  the  men  as  were  con- 
sidered doubtful  in  tlieir  loyalty;  but  nothing  occurred 
to  excite  immediate  apprehensions.  Rose  evidently 
was  not  a  favorite  among  his  comrades,  and  it  was 
hoped  that  he  had  not  been  able  to  make  any  real 
partisans. 

On  the  loth  of  August  they  encamped  among  hills, 
on  the  highest  peak  of  which  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  huge 
pyre  of  pine  wood  to  be  made,  which  soon  sent  up  a 
great  column  of  flame  tliat  might  be  seen  far  and  wide 
over  the  prairies.  This  fire  blazed  all  night,  and  was 
amply  replenished  at  daybreak ;  so  that  the  towering 
pillar  of  smoke  could  not  but  be  descried  by  the  wan- 
derers if  within  the  distance  of  a  day's  journey. 

It  is  a  common  occurrence  in  these  regions,  where 
the  features  of  the  country  so  much  resemble  each 
other,  for  hunters  to  lose  themselves  and  wander  for 
many  days,  before  they  can  find  their  way  back  to  the 
main  body  of  their  party.  In  the  present  instance, 
however,  a  more  than  common  solicitude  was  felt,  in 
consequence  of  the  distrust  awakened  by  the  sinister 
designs  of  Rose. 

The  route  now  became  excessively  toilsome,  over  a 
ridge  of  steep  rocky  hills,  covered  with  loose  stones. 
These  were  intersected  by  deep  valleys,  formed  by  two 
branches  of  Big  River,  coming  from  the  south  of 
west,  both  of  which  they  crossed.  These  streams 
were  bordered  by  meadows,  well  stocked  with  buffaloes. 
Loads  of  meat  were  brought  in  by  the  hunters;    but 


ASTORIA 


215 


was 


er  a 
nes. 
two 
of 
ams 
oes. 
but 


the  travellers  were  rendered  dainty  by  profusion,  and 
would  cook  only  the  choice  i)ieces. 

They  had  now  travelled  for  several  days  at  a  very 
slow  rate,  and  had  made  signal-lires  and  left  traces 
of  their  route  at  every  staj^e,  yet  nothing-  was  heard 
or  seen  of  the  lost  men.  It  began  to  be  feared  that 
they  might  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  some  lurking 
band  of  savages.  A  party  numerous  as  that  of  Mr. 
Hunt,  with  a  long  train  of  pack-horses,  moving  acro'  ; 
open  plains  or  naked  hills,  is  discoverable  at  a  great  dis- 
tance by  Indian  scouts,  who  spread  the  intelligence 
rapidly  to  various  points,  and  assemble  their  friends 
to  hang  about  the  skirts  of  the  travellers,  steal  their 
horses,  or  cut  off  any  stragglers  from  the  main  body. 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  were  more  and  more 
sensible  how  nuich  it  would  be  in  the  power  of  this 
sullen  and  daring  vagabond  Rose,  to  do  them  mischief, 
when  they  should  become  entangled  in  the  defdes  of 
the  mountains,  with  the  passes  of  which  they  were 
wholly  unacquainted,  and  which  were  infested  by  his 
freebooting  friends,  the  Crows.  There,  should  he 
succeed  in  seducing  some  of  the  party  into  his  plans, 
he  might  carry  off  the  best  horses  and  effects,  throw 
himself  among  his  savage  allies,  and  set  all  pursuit 
at  deliance.  Mr.  Hunt  resolved,  therefore,  to  frus- 
trate the  knave,  divert  him,  by  management,  from  his 
plans,  and  make  it  sufficiently  advantageous  for  him 
to  remain  honest.  He  took  occasion,  accordingly,  in 
the  course  of  conversation,  to  inform  Rose  that,  hav- 
ing engaged  him  chiefly  as  a  guide  and  interpreter 
through  the  country  of  the  Crows,  they  would  not 
stand  in  need  oi  his  services  beyond.  Knowing, 
therefore,  his  connection  by  marriage  with  that  tribe, 
and  his  predilection  for  a  residence  among  them, 
they  would  put  no  restraint  upon  his  will,  but,  when- 
ever they  met  with  a  party  of  that  people,  would  leave 
him  at  liberty  to  remain  among  his  adopted  brethren. 


-•1 


*^i 


5 


m 


SV-  ■' 


f:!fi 


uri 


''t 


'  '%■ 


II 


2l6 


ASTORIA 


Furthermore,  that,  in  thus  parting  with  him,  they 
would  pay  him  half  a  year's  wages  in  consideration  of 
his  past  services,  and  would  give  him  a  horse,  three 
beaver  traps,  and  sundry  other  articles  calculated  to 
set  him  up  in  the  world. 

This  unexpected  liberality,  which  made  it  nearly  as 
profitable  and  infinitely  less  hazardous  for  Rose  to  re- 
main honest  than  to  play  the  rogue,  completely  dis- 
armed fiim.  From  that  time  his  whole  deportment 
underwent  a  change.  His  brow  cleared  up  and  ap- 
peared more  cheerful ;  he  left  off  his  sullen,  skulking 
habits,  and  made  no  further  attempts  to  tamper  with 
the  faith  of  his  comrades. 

On  the  13th  of  August  Mr.  Hunt  varied  his  course, 
and  inclined  westward,  in  hopes  of  falling  in  with  the 
three  lost  hunters;  who,  it  was  now  thought,  might 
have  kept  to  the  right  hand  of  Big  River.  This  course 
soon  brought  him  to  a  fork  of  the  Little  Missouri, 
about  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and  resembling  the  great 
river  of  the  same  name  in  the  strength  of  its  current, 
its  turbid  water,  and  the  frequency  of  driftwood  and 
sunken  trees. 

Rugged  mountains  appeared  ahead,  crowding  down 
to  the  water  edge,  and  offering  a  barrier  to  further 
progress  on  the  side  they  were  ascending.  Crossing 
the  river,  therefore,  they  encamped  on  its  northwest 
bank,  where  they  found  good  pasturage  and  buffalo  in 
abundance.  The  w^eather  was  overcast  and  rainy,  and 
a  general  gloom  pervaded  the  camp ;  the  voyageurs  sat 
smoking  in  groups,  with  their  shoulders  as  high  as 
their  heads,  croaking  their  foreboding,  when  suddenly 
towards  evening  a  shout  of  joy  gave  notice  that  the 
lost  men  were  found.  They  came  slowly  lagging  into 
the  camp,  with  weary  looks,  and  horses  jaded  and 
wayworn.  They  had,  in  fact,  been  for  seve/al  days 
incessantly  on  the  move.  In  their  hunting  ej:cursion 
on  the  prairies  they  had  pushed  so  far  in  pv.rsuit  of 


ASTORIA 


217 


ily 
the 


-ys 

on 
of 


buffalo,  as  to  find  it  impossible  to  retrace  their  steps 
over  plains  trampled  by  innumerable  herds;  and  were 
baffled  by  the  monotony  of  the  landscape  in  their  at- 
tempts to  recall  landmarks.  They  had  ridden  to  and 
fro  until  they  had  almost  lost  the  points  of  the  compass, 
and  become  totally  bewildered ;  nor  did  they  ever  per- 
ceive any  of  the  signal-fires  and  columns  of  smoke  made 
by  their  comrades.  At  length,  about  two  days  previ- 
ously, when  almost  spent  by  anxiety  and  hard  riding, 
they  came,  to  their  great  joy,  upon  the  "  trail  "  of  the 
party,  which  they  had  since  followed  up  steadily. 

Those  only,  w4io  have  experienced  the  warm  cor- 
diality that  grows  up  between  comrades  in  wild  and 
adventurous  expeditions  of  the  kind,  can  picture  to  them- 
selves the  hearty  cheering  with  which  the  stragglers 
were  welcomed  to  the  camp.  Every  one  crowded  round 
them  to  ask  questions,  and  to  hear  the  story  of  their 
mishaps;  and  even  the  squaw  of  the  moody  half-breed, 
Pierre  Dorion,  forgot  the  sternness  of  his  domestic 
rule,  and  the  conjugal  discipline  of  the  cudgel,  in  her 
joy  at  his  safe  return. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  were  now  on  the  skirts  of  the 
Black  Hills,  or  Black  Mountains,  as  they  are  sometimes 
called ;  an  extensive  chain,  lying  about  a  hundred  miles 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  stretching  in  a  north- 
east direction  from  the  south  fork  of  the  Nebraska, 
or  Platte  River,  to  the  great  north  bend  of  the  Mis- 
souri. The  Sierra  or  ridge  of  the  Black  Hills,  in  fact, 
forms  the  dividing  line  between  the  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  those  of  the  Arkansas  and  the  Mississippi, 
and  gives  rise  to  the  Cheyenne,  the  Little  Missouri, 
and  several  tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone. 


M  " 


iifl 


Jf  i    '    i 


\m 


W  I 


'    if:  »,. 


\h  !, 


2l8 


ASTORIA 


The  wild  recesses  of  these  hills,  like  those  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  are  retreats  and  lurking-places  for 
broken  and  predatory  tribes,  and  it  was  among  them 
that  the  remnant  of  the  Cheyenne  tribe  took  refuge,  as 
has  been  stated,  from  their  conquering  enemies,  the 
Sioux. 

The  Black  Hills  are  chiefly  composed  of  sandstone, 
and  in  many  places  are  broken  into  savage  cliffs  and 
precipices,  and  present  the  most  singular  and  fantastic 
forms;  sometimes  resembling  towns  and  castellated 
fortresses.  The  ignorant  inhabitants  of  plains  are 
prone  to  clothe  the  mountains  that  bound  their  horizon 
with  fanciful  and  superstitious  attril)utes.  Thus  the 
wandering  tribes  of  the  prairies,  who  often  behold 
clouds  gathering  round  the  summits  of  these  hills,  and 
lightning  flashing,  and  tliunder  pealing  from  them, 
when  all  the  neighboring  plains  are  serene  and  sunny, 
consider  them  the  abode  of  the  genii  or  thunder-spirits 
who  fabricate  storms  and  tempests.  On  et^tering  their 
defiles,  therefore,  they  often  hang  offeri':  •<■  on  the 
trees,  or  place  them  on  the  rocks,  to  prop.  <-  the  in- 
visible "  lords  of  the  mountains,"  and  piucure  good 
weather  and  successful  hunting;  and  they  attach  un- 
usual significance  to  the  echoes  which  haunt  the  preci- 
pices. This  superstition  may  also  have  arisen,  in  part, 
from  a  natural  phenomenon  of  a  singular  nature.  In 
the  most  calm  and  serene  weather,  and  at  all  times  of 
the  day  or  night,  successive  reports  are  now  and  then 
heard  among  tliese  mountains,  resembling  the  dis- 
charge of  several  pieces  of  artillery.  Similar  reports 
were  heard  by  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  which  they  say  were  attributed  by  the  In- 
dians to  the  bursting  of  the  rich  mines  of  silver  con- 
tained in  the  bosom  of  the  mountains. 

In  fact,  these  singular  explosions  have  received 
fanciful  explanations  from  learned  men,  and  have  not 
been  satisfactorily  accounted  for  even  by  philosophers. 


ASTORIA 


219 


as 


;  in- 


In 
of 
len 
lis- 
Drts 
cky 
In- 
on- 

red 

hot 
;rs. 


They  are  said  to  occur  frequently  in  Brazil.  Vascon- 
celles,  a  Jesuit  father,  describes  one  which  he  heard  in 
the  Sierra,  or  mountain  region  of  Piratininga,  and 
which  he  compares  to  the  discharges  of  a  park  of  ar- 
tillery. The  Indians  told  him  that  it  was  an  explosion 
of  stones.  The  worthy  father  had  soon  a  satisfactory 
proof  of  the  truth  of  their  information,  for  the  very 
place  was  found  where  a  rock  had  burst  and  exploded 
from  its  entrails  a  stony  mass,  like  a  bomb-shell,  and  of 
the  size  of  a  bull's  heart.  This  mass  was  broken  either 
in  its  ejection  or  its  fall,  and  wonderful  was  the  in- 
ternal organization  revealed.  It  had  a  shell  harder 
even  than  iron;  within  which  were  arranged,  like  the 
seeds  of  a  pomegranate,  jewels  of  various  colors ; 
some  transparent  as  crystal ;  others  of  a  fine  red,  and 
others  of  mixed  hues.  The  same  phenomenon  is  said 
to  occur  occasionally  in  the  adjacent  province  of 
Guayra,  where  stones  of  the  bigness  of  a  man's  hand 
are  exploded,  with  a  loud  noise,  from  the  bosom  of  the 
earth,  and  scatter  about  glittering  and  beautiful  frag- 
ments that  look  like  precious  gems,  but  are  of  no  value. 
The  Indians  of  the  Orellanna,  also,  tell  of  horrible 
noises  heard  occasionally  in  the  Paraguaxo,  which 
they  consider  the  throes  and  groans  of  the  mountain, 
endeavoring  to  cast  forth  the  precious  stones  hidden 
within  its  entrails.  Others  have  endeavored  to  account 
for  these  discharges  of  "  mountain  artillery  "  on  hum- 
bler principles ;  attributing  them  to  the*  loud  reports 
made  by  the  disruption  and  fall  of  great  masses  of 
rock,  reverberated  and  prolonged  by  the  echoes;  oth- 
ers, to  the  disengagement  of  hydrogen,  produced  by 
subterraneous  -beds  of  coal  in  a  state  of  ignition.  In 
whatever  way  this  singular  phenomenon  may  be  ac- 
counted for,  the  existence  of  it  appears  to  be  well  es- 
tablished. It  remains  one  of  the  lingering  mysteries 
of  nature  which  throw  something  of  a  supernatural 
charm  over  her  wild  mountain  solitudes ;  and  we  doubt 


!    I 


!  i  ■'■■ 


220 


ASTORIA 


^■11 


i  !      ( 


t 


m 


whether  the  imaginative  reader  will  not  rather  join 
with  the  poor  Indian  in  attributing  it  to  the  thunder- 
spirits,  or  the  guardian  genii  of  unseen  treasures,  than 
to  any  commonplace  physical  cause. 

Whatever  might  be  the  supernatural  influences 
among  these  mountains,  the  travellers  found  their 
physical  difficulties  hard  to  cope  with.  They  made 
repeated  attempts  to  find  a  passage  through  or  over  the 
chain,  but  were  as  often  turned  back  by  impassable 
barriers.  Sometimes  a  defile  seemed  to  open  a  practi- 
cable path,  but  it  would  terminate  in  some  wild  chaos 
of  rocks  and  cliffs,  which  it  was  impossible  to  climb. 
The  animals  of  these  solitary  regions  were  different 
from  those  they  had  been  accustomed  to.  The  black- 
tailed  deer  would  bound  up  the  ravines  on  their  ap- 
proach, and  the  bighorn  would  gaze  fearlessly  down 
upon  them  from  some  impending  precipice,  or  skip 
playfully  from  rock  to  rock.  These  animals  are  only 
to  be  met  with  in  mountainous  regions.  The  former 
is  larger  than  the  common  deer,  but  its  flesh  is  not 
equally  esteemed  by  hunters.  It  has  very  large  ears, 
and  the  tip  of  the  tail  is  black,  from  which  it  derives 
its  name. 

The  bighorn  is  so  named  from  its  horns;  which 
are  of  a  great  size,  and  twisted  like  those  of  a  ram.  It 
is  called  by  some  the  argali,  by  others  the  ibex,  though 
differing  from  both  of  these  animals.  The  Mandans 
call  it  the  ahsahta,  a  name  much  better  than  the  clumsy 
appellation  which  it  generally  bears.  It  is  of  the  size 
of  a  small  elk,  or  large  deer,  and  of  a  dun  color,  ex- 
cepting the  belly  and  round  the  tail,  where  it  is  white. 
In  its  habits  it  resembles  the  goat,  frequenting  the 
rudest  precipices :  cropping  the  herbage  from  their 
edges ;  and  like  the  chamois,  bounding  lightly  and  se- 
curely among  dizzy  heights,  where  the  hunter  dares 
not  venture.  It  is  diflficult,  therefore,  to  get  within 
shot  of  it.     Ben  Jones  the  hunter,  however,  in  one  of 


ASTORIA 


221 


the  passes  of  the  Black  Hills,  succeeded  in  bringing 
down  a  bighorn  from  the  verge  of  a  precipice,  the 
flesh  of  which  was  pronounced  by  the  gormands  of  the 
camp  to  have  the  flavor  of  excellent  mutton. 

Baflled  in  his  attempts  to  traverse  this  mountain 
chain,  Mr.  Hunt  skirted  along  it  to  the  southwest,  keep- 
ing it  on  the  right;  and  still  in  hopes  of  finding  an 
opening.  At  an  early  hour  one  day,  he  encamped  in 
a  narrow  valley  on  the  banks  of  a  beautifully  clear 
but  rushy  pool ;  surrounded  by  thickets  bearing  abun- 
dance of  wild  cherries,  currants,  and  yellow  and  purple 
gooseberries. 

While  the  afternoon's  meal  was  in  preparation,  Mr. 
Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  ascended  to  the  summit  of  the 
nearest  hill,  from  whence,  aided  by  the  purity  and 
transparency  of  the  evening  atmosphere,  they  com- 
manded a  vast  prospect  on  all  sides.     Below  them  ex- 


tended a  plain,  dotted  with  innumerable  herds  of  buf- 
falo. Some  were  lying  down  among  the  herbage, 
others  roaming  in  their  unbounded  pastures,  while 
many  were  engaged  in  fierce  contests  like  those  already 
described,  their  low  bellowings  reaching  the  ear  like 
the  hoarse  murmurs  of  the  surf  on  a  distant  shore. 

Far  off  in  the  west  they  descried  a  range  of  lofty 
mountains  printing  the  clear  horizon,  some  of  them 
evidently  capped  with  snow.  These  they  supposed  to 
be  the  Bighorn  Mountains,  so  called  from  the  animal 
of  that  name,  with  which  they  abound.  They  are  a 
spur  of  th.e  great  Rocky  chain.  The  hill  from  whence 
Mr.  Hunt  had  this  prospect  was,  according  to  his  com- 
putation, about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
Arickara  village. 

On  returning  to  the  camp,  Mr.  Hunt  found  some 
uneasiness  prevailing  among  the  Canadian  voyageurs. 
In  straying  among  the  thickets  they  had  beheld  tracks 
of  grizzly  bears  in  every  direction,  doubtless  attracted 
thither  by  the  fruit.    To  their  dismay,  they  now  found 


.'1     I 


li^ 


•if   r  « 


r'i. 


!  1, 


222 


ASTORIA 


that  they  had  encamped  in  one  of  the  favorite  resorts 
of  this  dreaded  animal.  The  idea  marred  all  the 
comfort  of  the  encampment.  As  night  closed,  the 
surrounding  thickets  were  peopled  with  terrors;  inso- 
much that,  according  to  Mr.  Hunt,  they  could  not  help 
starting  at  every  little  breeze  that  stirred  the  bushes. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  the  only  really  formidable  quad- 
ruped of  our  continent.  He  is  the  favorite  theme  of 
the  hunters  of  the  far  West,  who  describe  him  as  equal 
in  size  to  a  common  cow  and  of  prodigious  strength. 
He  makes  battle  if  assailed,  and  often,  if  pressed  by 
hunger,  is  the  assailant.  H  wounded,  he  becomes  furi- 
ous and  will  pursue  the  hunter.  His  speed  exceeds  that 
of  a  man  but  is  inferior  to  that  of  a  horse.  In  attack- 
ing he  rears  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and  springs  the 
length  of  his  body.  Woe  to  horse  or  rider  that  comes 
within  the  sweep  of  his  terrific  claws,  which  are  some- 
times nine  inches  in  length,  and  tear  everything  before 
them. 

At  the  time  we  are  treating  of,  the  grizzly  bear  w-as 
still  frequent  on  the  Missouri  and  in  the  lower  country, 
but,  like  some  of  the  broken  tribes  of  the  prairie,  he 
has  gradually  fallen  back  before  his  enemies,  and  is 
now  chiefly  to  be  found  in  the  upland  regions,  in  rug- 
ged fastnesses  like  those  of  the  Black  Hills  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Here  he  lurks  in  caverns,  or  holes 
which  he  has  digged  in  the  sides  of  hills,  or  under  the 
roots  and  trunks  of  fallen  trees.  Like  the  common 
bear,  he  is  fond  of  fruits,  and  mast,  and  roots,  the 
latter  of  w'hich  he  will  dig  up  with  his  fore  claws.  He 
is  carnivorous  also,  and  will  even  attack  and  conquer 
the  lordly  buffalo,  dragging  his  huge  carcass  to  the 
neighborhood  of  his  den,  that  he  may  prey  upon  it  at 
his  leisure. 

The  hunters,  both  white  and  red  men,  consider  this 
the  most  heroic  game.  They  prefer  to  hunt  him  on 
horseback,  and  will  venture  so  near  as  sometimes  to 


ASTORIA 


223 


was 

jntry, 

:,  he 

d  is 

irug- 

the 

holes 

the 

imon 

the 

He 

luer 

the 

It  at 

[this 
on 
to 


singe  his  hair  with  the  flash  of  the  rifle.  The  hunter  of 
the  grizzly  bear,  however,  must  be  an  experienced  hand, 
and  laiow  where  to  aim  at  a  vital  part ;  for  of  all  quad- 
rupeds, he  is  the  most  difficult  to  be  killed.  He  will 
receive  repeated  wounds  without  flinching,  and  rarely 
is  a  shot  mortal  unless  through  the  head  or  heart. 

That  the  dangers  apprehended  from  the  grizzly  1)ear, 
at  this  night  encampment,  were  not  imaginary,  was 
proved  on  the  following  morning.  Among  the  hired 
men  of  the  party  was  one  William  Cannon,  who  had 
been  a  soldier  at  one  of  the  frontier  posts,  and  entered 
into  the  employ  of  Mr.  Hunt  at  Mackinaw.  He  was 
an  inexperienced  hunter  and  a  poor  shot,  for  which 
he  was  much  bantered  by  his  more  adroit  comrades. 
Piqued  at  their  railleiy,  he  had  been  practising  ever 
since  he  had  joined  the  expedition,  but  without  success. 
In  the  course  of  the  present  afternoon,  he  went  forth 
by  himself  to  take  a  lesson  in  venerie,  and,  to  his  great 
delight,  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a  buffalo.  As  he 
was  a  considerable  distance  from  the  camp,  he  cut  out 
the  tongue  and  some  of  the  choice  bits,  made  them 
into  a  parcel,  and  slinging  them  on  his  shoulders  by  a 
strap  passed  round  his  forehead,  as  the  voyageurs 
carry  packages  of  goods,  set  out  all  glorious  for  the 
camp,  anticipating  a  triumph  over  his  brother  hunters. 
In  passing  through  a  narrow  ravine,  he  heard  a  noise 
behind  him,  and  looking  round  beheld,  to  his  dismay, 
a  grizzly  bear  in  full  pursuit,  apparently  attracted  by 
the  scent  of  the  meat.  Cannon  had  heard  so  much  of 
the  invulnerability  of  this  tremendous  animal,  that  he 
never  attempted  to  fire,  but,  slipping  the  strap  from 
his  forehead,  let  go  the  buffalo  meat  and  ran  for  his 
life.  The  bear  did  not  stop  to  regale  himself  with  the 
game,  but  kept  on  after  the  hunter.  He  had  nearly 
overtaken  him  when  Cannon  reached  a  tree,  and, 
throwing  down  his  rifle,  scrambled  up  it.  The  next 
instant  Bruin  was  at  the  foot  of  the  tree;   but,  as  this 


,^^ 


I'' 


i    I 


224 


ASTORIA 


species  of  bear  does  not  climb,  he  contented  himself 
with  turning  the  chase  into  a  blockade.  Night  came 
on.  In  the  darkness  Cannon  could  not  perceive 
whether  or  not  the  enemy  maintained  his  station ;  but 
his  fears  pictured  him  rigorously  mounting  guard. 
He  passed  the  night,  therefore,  in  the  tree,  a  prey  to 
dismal  fancies.  In  the  morning  the  bear  was  gone. 
Cannon  warily  descended  the  tree,  gathered  up  his 
gun,  and  made  the  best  of  his  way  back  to  the  camp, 
without  venturing  to  look  after  his  buffalo  meat. 

While  on  this  theme  we  will  add  another  anecdote 
of  an  adventure  with  a  grizzly  bear,  told  of  John  Day, 
the  Kentucky  hunter,  but  which  happened  at  a  different 
period  of  the  expedition.  Day  was  hunting  in  com- 
pany with  one  of  the  clerks  of  the  company,  a  lively 
youngster,  who  was  a  great  favorite  with  the  veteran, 
but  whose  vivacity  he  had  continually  to  keep  in  check. 
They  were  in  search  of  deer,  when  suddenly  a  huge 
grizzly  bear  emerged  from  a  thicket  about  thirty  yards 
distant,  rearing  himself  upon  his  hind  legs  witli  a  ter- 
rific growl,  and  displaying  a  hideous  array  of  teeth  and 
claws.  The  rifle  of  the  young  man  w^as  levelled  in  an 
instant,  but  John  Day's  iron  hand  was  as  quickly  upon 
his  arm.  "Be  quiet,  boy!  be  quiet!"  exclaimed  the 
hunter  between  his  clenched  teeth,  and  without  turning 
his  eyes  from  the  bear.  They  remained  motionless. 
The  monster  regarded  them  for  a  time,  then,  lowering 
himself  on  his  fore  paws,  slowly  withdrew.  He  had 
not  gone  many  paces  before  he  again  returned,  reared 
himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and  repeated  his  menace. 
Day's  hand  was  still  on  the  arm  of  his  young  com- 
panion ;  he  again  pressed  it  hard,  and  kept  repeating 
between  his  teeth,  "Quiet,  boy!  —  keep  quiet!  —  keep 
quiet!  "  —  though  the  latter  had  not  made  a  move  since 
his  first  prohibition.  The  bear  again  lowered  himself 
on  all  fours,  retreated  some  twenty  yards  further,  and 
again  turned,  reared,  showed  his  teeth,  and  growled. 


§^^&' 


mself 
came 
"ceive 
;  but 
uard. 
ey  to 
gone, 
p  his 
camp, 

jcdote 
Day, 
ferent 
com- 
lively 
:teran, 
check, 
huge 
yards 
a  ter- 
;h  and 
in  an 
upon 
;d  the 
rning 
Inless. 
lering 
had 
leared 
mace. 
Icom- 
|ating 
keep 
Isince 
nself 
and 
ivled. 


ASTORIA 


225 


This  third  menace  was  too  much  for  the  game  spirit 
of  John  Day.  "  By  Jove !  "  exclaimed  he,  '*  I  can  stand 
this  no  longer,"  and  in  an  instant  a  ball  from  his  rifle 
whizzed  into  the  foe.  The  wound  was  not  mortal ; 
but,  luckily,  it  dismayed  instead  of  enraging  the  animal, 
and  he  retreated  into  the  thicket. 

Day's  young  companion  reproached  him  for  not 
practising  the  caution  which  he  enjoined  upon  others. 
"  Why,  boy,"  replied  the  veteran,  "  caution  is  caution, 
but  one  must  not  put  up  with  too  much,  even  from  a 
bear.  Would  you  have  me  suffer  myself  to  be  bullied 
all  day  by  a  varmint  ?  " 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

For  the  two  following  days,  the  travellers  pursued  a 
westerly  course  for  thirty-four  miles  along  a  ridge 
of  country  dividing  the  tributary  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  the  Yellowstone.  As  landmarks  they  guided 
themselves  by  the  summits  of  the  far  distant  mountains, 
which  they  supposed  to  belong  to  tlie  Bighorn  chain. 
They  were  gradually  rising  into  a  higher  temperature, 
for  the  weather  was  cold  for  the  season,  with  a  sharp 
frost  in  the  night,  and  ice  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness. 

On  the  twenty-second  of  August,  early  in  the  day, 
they  came  upon  the  trail  of  a  numerous  band.  Rose 
and  the  other  hunters  examined  the  foot-prints  with 
great  attention,  and  determined  it  to  be  the  trail  of  a 
party  of  Crows,  returning  from  an  annual  trading 
visit  to  the  Mandans.  As  this  trail  afforded  more 
commodious  travelling,  they  immediately  struck  into 
it,  and  followed  it  for  two  days.  It  led  them  over 
rough  hills,  and  through  broken  gullies,  during  which 
time  they  suffered  great  fatigue  from  the  ruggedness 
of  the  country.    The  weather,  too,  which  had  recently 

15 


.■1 

,(1 


11 


226 


ASTORIA 


1 


■I 


'a 

\ 


]   '^^^ 


i       ■( 


■!  t 


iiV- 


::'!■■ 


II 


been  frosty,  was  now  oppressively  warm,  and  there 
was  a  great  scarcity  of  water,  insomuch  that  a  vakiable 
dog  belonging  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie  died  of  thirst. 

At  one  time  they  had  twenty-five  miles  of  painful 
travel,  without  a  drop  of  water,  until  they  arrived  at 
a  small  running  stream.  Here  they  eagerly  slaked 
their  thirst ;  but,  this  being  allayed,  the  calls  of  hunger 
became  equally  importunate.  Ever  since  they  had  got 
among  these  barren  and  arid  hills,  where  there  was  a 
deficiency  of  grass,  they  had  met  with  no  buffaloes; 
those  animals  keeping  in  the  grassy  meadows  near  the 
streams.  They  were  obliged,  therefore,  to  have  re- 
course to  their  corn  meal,  which  they  reserved  for  such 
emergencies.  Some,  however,  were  lucky  enough  to 
kill  a  wolf,  which  they  cooked  for  supper,  and  pro- 
nounced excellent  food. 

The  next  morning  they  resumed  their  wayfaring, 
hungry  and  jaded,  and  had  a  dogged  march  of  eighteen 
miles  among  the  same  kind  of  hills.  At  length  they 
emerged  upon  a  stream  of  clear  water,  one  of  the  forks 
of  Powder  River,  and  to  their  great  joy  beheld  once 
more  wide  grassy  meadows,  stocked  with  herds  of 
buffalo.  For  several  days  they  kept  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  ascending  it  about  eighteen  miles.  It  w^as 
a  hunter's  paradise;  the  buffaloes  were  in  such  abun- 
dance that  they  were  enabled  to  kill  as  many  as  they 
pleased,  and  to  jerk  a  sufficient  supply  of  meat  for 
several  days'  journeying.  Here,  then,  they  revelled  and 
reposed  after  their  hungry  and  weary  travel,  hunting 
and  feasting,  and  reclining  upon  the  grass.  Their 
quiet,  however,  was  a  little  marred  by  coming  upon 
traces  of  Indians,  who,  they  concluded,  must  be  Crows; 
they  were  therefore  obliged  to  keep  a  more  vigilant 
watch  than  ever  upon  their  horses.  For  several  days 
they  had  been  directing  their  march  towards  the  lofty 
mountain  descried  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
on  the  i/th  of  August,  the  height  of  which  rendered 


ASTORIA 


22'] 


was 
Ibun- 

|they 
for 
and 

iting 

ipon 
)ws ; 
ilant 
lays 
lofty 
mzie 
lered 


it  a  landmark  over  a  vast  extent  of  country.  At  first 
it  had  appeared  to  them  scditary  and  detached ;  but  as 
they  advanced  towards  it,  it  proved  to  he  tlie  principal 
summit  of  a  chain  of  mountains.  Day  by  day  it  varied 
in  form,  or  rather  its  lower  peaks,  and  the  summits  of 
others  of  the  chain  emerged  above  the  clear  horizon, 
and  finally  the  inferior  line  of  hills  which  connected 
most  of  them  rose  to  view.  So  far,  however,  are  ob- 
jects discernible  in  the  pure  atmosphere  of  these  ele- 
vated plains,  that,  from  the  place  where  they  first 
descried  the  main  mountain,  they  had  to  travel  a  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  befcjre  they  reached  its  base. 
Here  they  encamped  on  the  30th  of  August,  having 
come  nearly  four  hundred  miles  since  leaving  the 
Arickara  village. 

The  mountain  which  now  towered  above  them  was 
one  of  the  Bighorn  chain,  bordered  by  a  river,  of  the 
same  name,  and  extending  for  a  long  distance  rather 
east  of  north  and  west  of  south.  It  was  a  part  of  the 
great  system  of  granite  mountains  which  forms  one  of 
the  most  important  and  striking  features  of  North 
America,  stretching  parallel  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific 
from  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  almost  to  the  Arctic 
Ocean ;  and  presenting  a  corresponding  chain  to  that 
of  the  Andes  in  the  southern  hemisphere.  This  vast 
range  has  acquired,  from  its  rugged  and  broken  char- 
acter and  its  summits  of  naked  granite,  the  appellation 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a  name  by  no  means  dis- 
tinctive, as  all  elevated  ranges  are  rocky.  Among  the 
early  explorers  it  was  known  as  the  range  of  Chippe- 
wyan  Mountains,  and  this  Indian  name  is  the  one  it  is 
likely  to  retain  in  poetic  usage.  Rising  from  the  midst 
of  vast  plains  and  prairies,  traversing  several  degrees 
of  latitude,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Pacific,  and  seeming  to  bind  with  diverging  ridges  the 
level  regions  on  its  flanks,  it  has  been  figuratively 
termed  the  backbone  of  the  northern  continent. 


I' 

>l 

'ilia 


') 


228 


ASTORIA 


i 


liW' 


The  Rocky  Mountains  do  not  present  a  ran.c^c  of 
uniform  elevation,  btit  rather  groups  and  occasionally 
detached  peaks.  Thoug'h  some  of  these  rise  to  the 
region  of  perpetual  snows,  and  are  upwards  of  eleven 
thousand  feet  in  real  altitude,  yet  their  height  from 
their  immediate  basis  is  not  so  great  as  might  be 
imagined,  as  tiiey  swell  up  from  elevated  plains  several 
thousand  feet  above  tlie  level  of  the  ocean.  These 
plains  are  often  of  a  desolate  sterility ;  mere  sandy 
wastes,  formed  of  the  detritus  of  the  granite  heights, 
destitute  of  trees  and  herbage,  scorched  by  tiie  ardent 
and  reflected  rays  of  the  summer's  sun,  and  in  winter 
swept  by  chilling  blasts  from  the  snow-clad  moun- 
tains. Such  is  a  great  part  of  that  vast  region  extend- 
ing north  and  south  along  the  mountains,  several  hun- 
dred miles  in  w'idth,  which  has  not  improperly  been 
termed  the  Great  American  Desert.  It  is  a  region  that 
almost  discourages  all  hope  of  cultivation,  and  can 
only  be  traversed  with  safety  by  keeping  near  the 
streams  which  intersect  it.  Extensive  plains  likewise 
occur  among  the  higher  regions  of  the  mountains,  of 
considerable  fertility.  Indeed,  these  lofty  plats  of  table- 
land seem  to  form  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  American 
continents.  Some  occur  among  the  Cordilleras  of  the 
Andes,  where  cities,  and  towns,  and  cultivated  farms 
are  to  be  seen  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

The  Rocky  Mountains,  as  we  have  already  ob- 
served, occur  sometimes  singly  or  in  groups,  and  oc- 
casionally in  collateral  ridges.  Between  these  are  deep 
valleys,  v/ith  small  streams  winding  through  them, 
which  find  their  way  into  the  lower  plains,  augment- 
ing as  they  proceed,  and  ultimately  discharging  them- 
selves into  those  vast  rivers,  which  traverse  the 
prairies  like  great  arteries,  and  drain  the  continent. 

While  the  granitic  summits  of  the  Rocky  Mounts  Ins 
are  bleak  and  bare,  many  of  the  inferior  ndges  are 


1 
1 

s 

d 


ASTORIA 


229 


eral 


ob- 
oc- 
jdeep 
(hem, 
pent- 
bem- 
the 

are 


scantily  clothed  with  scruh!)e(l  pines,  oaks,  cedar,  and 
furze.  Various  parts  of  the  mountains  also  bear  traces 
of  volcanic  action.  Some  of  the  interior  valleys  are 
birewed  witli  scoria  and  broken  siones,  evidently  of 
volcanic  origin ;  the  surrounding  rocks  bear  the  like 
character,  and  vestiges  of  extinguished  craters  are  to 
be  seen  on  the  elevated  heights. 

We  have  already  noticed  the  superstitious  feelings 
witii  which  the  Indians  regard  the  Black  Hills;  but 
this  immense  range  of  mountains,  which  divides  all 
that  they  know  of  the  world,  and  gives  birth  to  such 
mighty  rivers,  is  still  more  an  object  of  awe  and  ven- 
erc^^or.  They  call  it  "the  crest  of  the  world,"  and 
think  ihat  Wacondah,  or  the  master  of  life,  as  they 
depi?;nale  the  Supreme  Being,  has  his  residence  among 
thti-e  aerial  !;eights.  The  tril)es  on  the  eastern  prairies 
call  them  the  mountains  of  the  setting  sun.  Some  of 
tlicn";  place  tlie  ''  happy  hunting  grounds,"  their  ideal 
parathse,  ciUKMir  iht-  recesses  of  these  mountains;  but 
say  that  tlicy  a)  0  .ni  isil^le  to  living  men.  Here  also  is 
t:ie  '*  Lana  of  Seals,"  in  which  are  the  "  towns  of  the 
free  and  [generous  s|>irii;s,"  where  those  who  have 
phased  the  master  .j":  life  while  living,  enjoy  after 
deiitli  ah  manner  of  d-^lights. 

Wonders  are  U):d  of  these  mountains  by  the  dis- 
tant if'bes.  whose  warriors  or  hunters  have  ever  wan- 
dered in  difcir  neij^hborhood.  It  is  thought  by  some 
that,  af'-^r  deal;;,  they  will  have  to  travel  to  these 
mountains  and  ascend  one  of  their  highest  and  most 
rugt^^ed  peaks,  ;.mong  rocks  and  snows  and  tumbling 
torrents.  After  many  moons  of  painful  toil  they  will 
reav:!i  the  summit,  from  whence  they  will  have  a  view 
over  the  land  of  souls.  There  they  will  see  the  happy 
hunting  grounds,  with  the  souls  of  the  brave  and  good 
living  in  tents  in  green  meadows,  by  bright  running 
streams,  or  hunting  the  herds  of  buffalo,  and  elk,  and 
deer,  which  have  been  slain  on  earth.    There,  too,  they 


il  1  ■ 


230 


ASTORIA 


will  see  the  villages  or  towns  of  the  free  and  generous 
spirits  brightening  in  the  midst  of  delicious  prairies. 
If  they  have  acquitted  themselves  well  while  living, 
they  will  be  permitted  to  descend  and  enjoy  this  happy 
country;  if  otherwise  they  will  but  be  tantalized  with 
this  prospect  of  it,  and  then  hurled  back  from  the 
mountain  to  wander  about  the  sandy  plains,  and  endure 
the  eternal  pangs  of  unsatisfied  thirst  and  hunger. 


l»  ■■■    ri. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII 

The  travellers  had  now  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
mountain  regions  infested  by  the  Crow  Indians.  These 
restless  marauders,  as  has  already  been  observed,  are 
apt  to  be  continually  on  the  prowl  about  the  skirts 
of  the  mountains;  and  even  when  encamped  in  some 
deep  and  secluded  glen,  they  keep  scouts  upon  the 
cliffs  and  promontories,  who,  unseen  themselves,  can 
discern  every  living  thing  that  moves  over  the  sub- 
jacent plains  and  valleys.  It  was  not  to  be  expected 
that  our  travellers  could  pass  unseen  through  a  region 
thus  vigilantly  sentinelled;  accordingly,  in  the  edge 
of  the  evening,  not  long  after  they  had  encamped  at 
the  foot  of  the  Bighorn  Sierra,  a  couple  of  wild-look- 
ing beings,  scantily  clad  in  skins,  but  well  armed,  and 
mounted  on  horses  as  wild-looking  as  themselves,  were 
seen  approaching  with  great  caution  from  among  the 
rocks.  They  might  have  been  mistaken  for  two  of  the 
evil  spirits  of  the  mountains  so  formidable  in  Intlian 
fable. 

Rose  was  immediately  sent  out  to  hold  a  parley 
with  them,  and  invite  them  to  the  camp.  They  proved 
to  be  two  scouts  from  the  same  band  that  had  been 
tracked  for  some  days  past,  and  which  was  now  en- 
camped at  some  distance  in  the  folds  of  the  mountain. 
They  were  easily  prevailed  upon  to  come  to  the  camp, 


ASTORIA 


231 


jgion 
edge 
;d  at 
llook- 

and 
Iwere 

the 
If  the 
idian 

irley 
pved 
(jjeen 
en- 
Itain. 
limp, 


where  they  were  well  received,  and,  after  remaining 
there  until  late  in  the  evening,  departed  to  make  a 
report  of  all  they  had  seen  and  experienced  to  their 
companions. 

The  following  day  had  scarce  dawned,  when  a  troop 
of  these  wild  mountain  scamperers  came  galloping 
with  whoops  and  yells  into  the  camp,  bringing  an  in- 
vitation from  their  chief  for  the  white  men  to  visit 
him.  The  tents  were  accordingly  struck,  the  horses 
laden,  and  the  party  were  soon  on  the  march.  The 
Crow  horsemen,  as  they  escorted  them,  appeared  to 
take  pride  in  showing  off  their  equestrian  skill  and 
hardihood;  careering  at  full  speed  on  their  half-savage 
steeds,  and  dashing  among  rocks  and  crags,  and  up 
and  down  the  most  rugged  and  dangerous  places  with 
perfect  ease  and  unconcern. 

A  ride  of  sixteen  miles  brought  them,  in  the  after- 
noon, in  sight  of  the  Crow  camp.  It  was  composed 
of  leathern  tents,  pitched  in  a  meadow  on  the  border 
of  a  small  clear  stream  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
A  great  number  of  horses  were  grazing  in  the  vicinity, 
man_/  of  them  doubtless  captured  in  marauding 
excursions. 

The  Crow  chieftain  came  forth  to  meet  his  guests 
with  great  professions  of  friendship,  and  conducted 
them  to  his  tents,  pointing  out,  by  the  way,  a  con- 
venient place  where  they  might  fix  their  camp.  No 
sooner  had  they  done  so,  than  Mr.  Hunt  opened  some 
of  the  packages  and  made  the  chief  a  present  of  a 
scarlet  blanket  and  a  quantity  of  powder  and  ball ;  he 
gave  him  also  some  knives,  trinkets,  and  tobacco  to 
be  distributed  among  his  warriors,  with  all  which  the 
grim  potentate  seemed,  for  the  time,  well  pleased.  As 
the  Crows,  however,  were  reputed  to  be  perfidious  in 
the  extreme,  and  as  errant  freebooters  as  the  bird  after 
which  they  were  so  worthily  named ;  and  as  their 
general  feeliuL^s  towards  the  whites  were  known  to  be 


It' 


•ti' 

p 

I* 


232 


ASTORIA 


V  • 


I:: 


Wi 


ftfc. 


by  no  means  friendly,  the  intercourse  with  them  was 
conducted  with  great  circumspection. 

The  following  day  was  passed  in  trading  with  the 
Crows  for  buffalo  robes  and  skins,  and  in  bartering 
galled  and  jaded  horses  for  others  that  were  in  good 
condition.  Some  of  the  men,  also,  purchased  horses 
on  their  own  account,  so  that  the  number  now 
amounted  to  one  hundred  and  twenty-one,  most  of 
them  sound  and  active,  and  fit  for  mountain  service. 

Their  wants  being  supplied,  they  ceased  all  further 
traffic,  much  to  the  dissatisfaction  of  the  Crows,  who 
became  extremely  urgent  to  continue  the  trade,  and, 
finding  their  importunities  of  no  avail,  assumed  an 
insolent  and  menacing  tone.  All  this  was  attributed 
by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  associates  to  the  perfidious  in- 
stigations of  Rose  the  interpreter,  whom  they  sus- 
pected of  the  desire  to  foment  ill-will  between  them  and 
the  savages,  for  the  promotion  of  his  nefarious  plans. 
M'Lellan,  with  his  usual  tranchant  mode  of  dealing 
out  justice,  resolved  to  shoot  the  desperado  on  the 
spot  in  case  of  any  outbreak.  Nothing  of  the  kind, 
however,  occurred.  The  Crows  were  probably  daunted 
by  the  resolute,  though  quiet  demeanor  of  the  white 
men,  and  the  constant  vigilance  and  armed  prepara- 
tions which  they  maintained;  and  Rose,  if  he  really 
still  harbored  his  knavish  designs,  must  have  perceived 
that  they  were  suspected,  and,  if  attempted  to  be 
carried  into  effect,  might  bring  ruin  on  his  own  head. 

The  next  morning,  bright  and  early,  Mr,  Hunt  pro- 
posed to  resume  his  journeying.  He  took  a  ceremoni- 
ous leave  of  the  Crow  chieftain,  and  his  vagabond 
warriors,  and  according  to  previous  arrangements, 
consigned  to  their  cherishing  friendship  and  fraternal 
adoption,  their  worthy  confederate  Rose;  who,  having 
figured  among  the  water  pirates  of  the  Mississippi, 
was  well  fitted  to  rise  to  distinction  among  the  land 
pirates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


ASTORIA 


^2>Z 


the 
ind, 
ited 
lite 
ara- 
ally 
ved 
be 
ad. 
)ro- 
oni- 
lond 
nts, 
rnal 

Mllg 

and 


It  is  proper  to  add,  that  the  ruffian  was  well  received 
among  the  tribe,  and  appeared  to  be  perfectly  satis- 
fied with  the  compromise  he  had  made;  feeling  much 
more  at  his  ease  among  savages  than  among  white 
men.  It  is  outcasts  from  civilization,  fugitives  from 
justice,  and  heartless  desperadoes  of  this  kind  who 
sow  the  seeds  of  enmity  and  bitterness  among  the  un- 
fortunate tribes  of  the  frontier.  There  is  no  enemy 
so  implacable  against  a  country  or  a  community  as 
one  of  its  own  people  who  has  rendered  himself  an 
alien  by  his  crimes. 

Right  glad  to  be  delivered  from  this  treacherous 
companion,  Mr.  Hunt  pursued  his  course  along  the 
skirts  of  the  mountain,  in  a  southern  direction,  seek- 
ing for  some  practicable  defile  by  which  he  might  pass 
through  it ;  none  such  presented,  however,  in  the  course 
of  fifteen  miles,  and  he  encamped  on  a  small  stream, 
still  on  the  outskirts.  The  green  meadows  which  bor- 
der these  mountain  streams  are  generally  well  stocked 
with  game,  and  the  hunters  killed  several  fat  elks, 
which  sui)plied  the  camp  with  fresh  meat.  In  the 
evening  the  tra\'ellers  were  surprised  by  an  unwelcome 
visit  from  several  Crows  belonging  to  a  dift'erent  band 
from  that  which  they  recently  left,  and  who  said  their 
camp  was  among  the  mountains.  The  consciousness 
of  l)cing  environed  by  such  dangerous  neighbors,  and 
of  beii.'-  still  within  the  ran^e  of  Rose  and  his  fellow 
ruffians,  obliged  the  party  to  be  continually  on  the 
alert,  and  to  maintain  \veary  vigils  throughout  the 
night,  lest  they  should  be  robbed  of  their  horses. 

On  the  third  of  September,  finding  that  the  moun- 
tain still  stretched  onwards,  presenting  a  continued 
barrier,  they  endeavored  to  force  a  passage  to  the  west- 
ward, but  soon  became  entangled  among  rocks  and 
precipices  which  set  all  their  efforts  at  defiance.  The 
mountain  seemed,  for  the  most  part,  rugged,  bare, 
and  sterile;    yet  here  and  there  it  was  clothed  with 


.1 

,1 


Hi 

r 


■j^ 


ik 


'   St 


Irti 


234 


ASTORIA 


pines,  and  with  shrubs  and  flowering  plants,  some  of 
which  were  in  bloom.  In  toiling  among  these  weary 
places,  their  thirst  became  excessive,  for  no  water  was 
to  be  met  with.  Numbers  of  the  men  wandered  off 
into  rocky  dells  and  ravines  in  hopes  of  finding  some 
brook  or  fountain;  some  of  whom  lost  their  way  and 
did  not  rejoin  the  main  party. 

After  a  day  of  painful  and  fruitless  scrambling,  Mr. 
Hunt  gave  up  the  attempt  to  penetrate  in  this  direction, 
and,  returning  to  the  little  stream  on  the  skirts  of  the 
mountain,  pitched  his  tents  within  six  miles  of  his 
encampment  of  the  preceding  night.  He  now  ordered 
that  signals  should  be  made  for  the  stragglers  in  quest 
of  waier,  but  the  night  passed  away  without  their 
return. 

The  next  morning,  to  their  surprise,  Rose  made  his 
appearance  at  the  camp,  accompanied  by  some  of  his 
Crow  associates.  His  unwelcome  visit  revived  their 
suspicions;  but  he  announced  himself  as  a  messenger 
of  good-will  from  the  chief,  who,  finding  they  had 
taken  the  wrong  road,  had  sent  Rose  and  his  com- 
panions to  guide  them  to  a  nearer  and  better  one  across 
the  mountain. 

Having  no  choice,  being  themselves  utterly  at  fault, 
they  set  out  under  this  questionable  escort.  They  had 
not  gone  far  before  they  fell  in  with  the  whole  party 
of  Crows,  who,  they  now  found,  were  going  the  same 
road  with  themselves.  The  two  cavalcades  of  white 
and  red  men,  therefore,  pushed  on  together,  and  pre- 
sented a  wild  and  picturesque  spectacle,  as,  equipped 
with  various  weapcjns  and  in  various  garbs,  w'ith  trains 
of  pack-horses,  tliey  wound  in  long  lines  through  the 
rugged  defiles,  and  up  and  down  the  crags  and  steeps 
of  the  mountain. 

The  travellers  had  again  an  opportunity  to  see  and 
admire  the  equestrian  habitudes  and  address  of  this 
hard-riding  tribe.     They  were  all  mounted,  man,  wo- 


ASTORIA 


235 


»me  of 
weary 
er  was 
•ed  off 
r  some 
ay  and 

g,  Mr. 
ection, 
of  the 
of  his 
)rdered 
11  quest 
t   their 

ade  his 

of  his 

d  their 

ssenger 

ey  had 

>  com- 

across 

fault, 
|ey  had 
party 
same 
white 
id  pre- 
(uipped 
trains 
]^h  the 
steeps 

ee  and 

If  this 

wo- 


man, and  child,  for  the  Crows  have  horses  in  abun- 
dance, so  that  no  one  goes  on  foot.  The  children  are 
perfect  imps  on  horseback.  Among  them  was  one  so 
young  that  he  could  not  yet  speak.  He  was  tied  on  a 
colt  of  two  years  old,  but  managed  the  reins  as  if  by 
instinct,  and  plied  the  whip  with  true  Indian  prodigal- 
ity. Mr.  Hunt  inquired  the  age  of  this  infant  jockey, 
and  was  answered  that  "  he  had  seen  two  winters." 

This  is  almost  realizing  the  fable  of  the  centaurs ; 
nor  can  we  wonder  at  the  equestrian  adroitness  of 
these,  savages,  who  are  thus  in  a  manner  cradled  in 
the  saddle,  and  become  in  infancy  almost  identified 
with  the  animal  they  bestride. 

The  mountain,  defiles  were  exceedingly  rough  and 
broken,  and  the  travelling  painful  to  the  burdened 
horses.  The  party,  therefore,  proceeded  but  slowly, 
and  were  gradually  left  behind  by  the  band  of  Crows, 
who  had  taken  the  lead.  It  is  more  than  probable  that 
Mr.  Hunt  loitered  in  his  course,  to  get  rid  of  such 
doubtful  fellow-travellers.  Certain  it  is  that  he  felt  a 
sensation  of  relief  as  he  saw  the  whole  crew,  the  rene- 
gade Rose  and  all,  disappear  among  the  windings  of 
the  mountain,  and  heard  the  last  yelp  of  the  savages 
die  away  in  the  distance. 

When  they  were  fairly  out  of  sight,  and  out  of 
hearing,  he  encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the  little 
stream  of  the  preceding  day,  having  come  about  six- 
teen miles.  Here  he  remained  all  the  succeeding  day, 
as  well  to  give  time  for  the  Crows  to  get  in  the  ad- 
vance, as  for  the  stragglers,  who  had  wandered  away 
in  quest  of  water  two  days  previously,  to  rejoin  the 
camp.  Indeed,  considerable  uneasiness  began  to  be 
felt  concerning  these  men,  lest  they  should  become 
utterly  bewildered  in  the  defiles  of  the  mountains,  or 
should  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  marauding  band 
of  savages.  Some  of  the  most  experienced  hunters 
were  sent  in  search  of  them;  others,  in  the  meantime, 


III: 


,  t 


:1  \,\ 

■■2 


m 


236 


ASTORIA 


employed  themselves  in  hunting.  The  narrow  valley 
in  which  they  encamped  being  watered  by  a  running 
stream,  yielded  fresh  pasturage,  and  though  in  the 
heart  of  the  Bighorn  Mountains,  w^s  well  stocked  with 
buffalo.  Several  of  these  were  killed,  as  also  a  grizzly 
bear.  In  the  evening,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties, 
the  stragglers  made  their  appearance,  and  provisions 
being  in  abundance,  there  was  hearty  good  cheer  in 
the  camp. 


li 


CHAPTER    XXIX 


*i- 


Resuming  their  course  on  the  following  morning,  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions  continued  on  westward 
through  a  rugged  region  of  hills  and  r(3cks,  but  diversi- 
fied in  many  places  by  grassy  little  glens,  with  springs 
of  water,  bright  sparkling  brooks,  clumps  of  pine  trees, 
and  a  profusion  of  flowering  plants,  which  were  in 
bloom,  although  the  weather  was  frosty.  These  beau- 
tiful and  verdant  recesses,  running  through  and  soften- 
ing the  rugged  mountains,  were  cheering  and  refresh- 
ing to  the  wayworn  travellers. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  as  they  were  entangled 
in  a  defile,  they  beheld  a  small  band  of  savages,  as  wild- 
looking  as  the  surrounding  scenery,  who  reconnoitred 
them  warily  from  the  rocks  before  they  ventured  to 
advance.  Some  of  them  were  mounted  on  horses 
rudely  caparisoned  with  bridles  or  halters  of  buffalo 
hide,  one  end  trailing  after  them  on  the  ground.  They 
proved  to  be  a  mixed  party  of  Flatheads  and  Sho- 
shonies,  or  Snakes ;  and  as  these  tribes  will  be  fre- 
quently mentioned  in  the  course  of  this  work,  we  shall 
give  a  few  introductory  particulars  concerning  them. 

The  Flatheads  in  question  are  not  to  be  confounded 
with  those  of  the  name  who  dwell  about  the  lower 
Avaters  of  the  Columbia ;  neither  do  they  flatten  their 
heads,  as  the  others  do.     They  inhabit  the  banks  of  a 


ASTORIA 


237 


valley 
lining 
n  the 
1  with 
grizzly 
arties, 
nsions 
eer  in 


g,  Mr. 
stward 
iiversi- 
;prings 
i  trees, 
ere  in 
;  beau- 
often- 
ifresh- 

nigled 
wild- 
loitred 
•ed  to 
Ihorses 
mffalo 
They 
Sho- 
i  f  re- 
shall 
hem. 
unded 
llower 
their 
of  a 


river  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains,  and  are  de- 
scri])ed  as  simple,  honest,  and  hospitable.  Like  all 
people  of  similar  character,  whether  civilized  or  sav- 
age, they  are  prone  to  be  imposed  upon ;  and  are  espe- 
cially maltreated  by  the  ruthless  Black  feet,  who  harass 
them  in  their  villages,  steal  their  horses  by  night,  or 
openly  carry  them  off  in  the  face  of  day,  without  pro- 
voking pursuit  or  retaliation. 

The  Shoshonies  are  a  branch  of  the  once  powerful 
and  prosperous  tribe  of  the  Snakes,  who  possessed  a 
glorious  hunting  country  about  the  upper  forks  of  the 
Missouri,  abounding  in  beaver  and  buffalo.  Their 
hunting  ground  was  occasionally  invaded  by  the  Black- 
feet,  but  the  Snakes  battled  bravely  for  their  domains, 
and  a  long  and  bloody  feud  existed,  with  variable  suc- 
cess. At  length  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  extend- 
ing their  trade  into  the  interior,  had  dealings  with  the 
Black  feet,  who  were  nearest  to  them,  and  supplied 
them  with  fire-arms.  The  Snakes,  who  occasionally 
traded  with  the  Spaniards,  endeavored,  but  in  vain, 
to  obtain  similar  weapons;  the  Spanish  traders  wisely 
refused  to  arm  them  so  formidably.  The  Black  feet 
had  now  a  vast  advantage,  and  soon  dispossessed  the 
poor  Snakes  of  their  favorite  hunting  grounds,  their 
land  of  plenty,  and  drove  them  from  place  to  place, 
until  they  were  fain  to  take  refuge  in  the  wildest  and 
most  desolate  recesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Even 
here  they  are  subject  to  occasional  visits  from  their 
implacable  foes,  as  long  as  they  have  horses,  or  any 
other  property  to  tempt  the  plunderer.  Thus  by  de- 
grees the  Snakes  have  become  a  scattered,  broken- 
spirited,  impoverished  people;  keeping  about  lonely 
rivers  and  mountain  streams,  and  subsisting  chiefly 
upon  fish.  Such  of  them  as  still  possess  horses,  and 
occasionally  figure  as  hunters,  are  called  Shoshonies; 
but  there  is  another  class,  the  most  abject  and  forlorn, 
who  are  called  Shuckers,  or  more  commonly  Diggers 


i  c' 


[I 


0 
1 


238 


ASTORIA 


"It 


My  I 

r '     'i 

H!'-'      ,         i 

1 

and  Root  Eaters.  These  are  a  shy,  secret,  soHtary 
race,  who  keep  in  the  m(3st  retired  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains, lurking  Hke  gnomes  in  caverns  and  clefts  of  the 
rocks,  and  subsisting  in  a  great  measure  on  the  roots 
of  the  earth.  Sometimes,  in  passing  through  a  soli- 
tary mountain  valley,  the  traveller  comes  perchance 
upon  the  bleeding  carcass  of  a  deer  or  buffalo  that  has 
just  been  slain.  He  looks  round  in  vain  for  the  hunter ; 
the  whole  landscape  is  lifeless  and  deserted:  at 
length  he  perceives  a  thread  of  smoke,  curling  up  from 
anK)ng  the  crags  and  cliffs,  and  scrambling  to  the  place, 
finds  some  forlorn  and  skulking  brood  of  Diggers, 
terrified  at  being  discovered. 

The  Shoshonies,  however,  who,  as  has  been  ob- 
served, have  still  "  horse  to  ride  and  weapon  to  wear," 
are  somewhat  bolder  in  their  spirit,  and  more  open 
and  wide  in  their  wanderings.  In  the  autumn,  when 
salmon  disappear  from  the  rivers,  and  hunger  begins 
to  pinch,  they  even  venture  down  into  their  ancient 
hunting  grounds,  to  make  a  foray  among  the  buffaloes. 
In  this  perilous  enterprise  they  are  occasionally  joined 
by  the  Flatheads,  the  persecutions  of  the  Black  feet 
having  produced  a  close  alliance  and  cooperation  be- 
tween these  luckless  and  maltreated  tribes.  Still, 
notwithstanding  their  united  force,  every  step  they 
take  within  the  debatable  ground  is  taken  in  fear 
and  trembling,  and  with  the  utmost  precaution :  and 
an  Indian  trader  assures  us  that  he  has  seen  at 
least  five  hundred  of  them,  armed  and  equippetl  for 
action,  and  keeping  watch  upon  the  hill-tops,  while 
about  fifty  were  hunting  in  the  prairie.  Their  ex- 
cursions are  brief  and  hurried;  as  soon  as  they 
have  collected  and  jerked  sufticient  buffalo  meat  for 
winter  provisions,  they  pack  their  horses,  abandon 
the  dangerous  hunting  grounds,  and  hasten  back  to 
the  mountains,  happy  if  they  have  not  the  terrible 
Blackfeet  rattling  after  them. 


;olitary 

moiiii- 

of  the 

e  roots 

a  soli- 

•chance 

hat  has 

liiinter ; 

id :     at 

p  from 

c  place, 

)iggers, 

;en   ob- 
wear," 
•e  open 
1,  when 
begins 
ancient 
ffaloes. 
joined 
,ackfeet 
lion  be- 
Still, 
p   they 
n    fear 
and 
en    at 
led  for 
while 
ir  ex- 
they 
lat  for 
andon 
ck  to 
rrible 


ASTORIA 


239 


Snch  a  confederate  band  of  Shoshonics  and  Flat- 
heads  was  the  one  met  by  our  travellers.  It  was  bound 
on  a  visit  to  the  Arrapahoes,  a  tribe  inhabiting  the 
banks  of  the  Nebraska.  They  were  armed  to  the  best 
of  their  scanty  means,  and  some  of  the  Shoshonics 
had  bucklers  of  buffalo  hide,  adorned  with  feathers 
and  leathern  fringes,  and  which  have  a  charmed  virtue 
in  their  eyes,  from  having  been  prepared,  with  mystic 
ceremonies,  by  their  conjurers. 

In  company  with  this  wandering  band  our  travellers 
proceeded  all  day.  In  the  evening  they  encamped  near 
to  each  other  in  a  defile  of  the  mountains,  on  the  bor- 
ders of  a  stream  running  north,  and  falling  into  Big- 
horn River.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  camp,  they  found 
gooseberries,  strawberries,  and  currants,  in  great 
abundance.  The  defile  bore  traces  of  having  been  a 
thoroughfare  for  countless  herds  of  buffaloes,  though 
not  one  was  to  be  seen.  The  hunters  succeeded  in 
killing  an  elk  and  several  black-tailed  deer. 

They  were  now  in  the  bosom  of  the  second  Big- 
horn ridge,  with  another  lofty  and  snow-crowned 
mountain  full  in  view  to  the  west.  Fifteen  miles  of 
western  course  l)rought  them,  on  the  following  day, 
down  into  an  intervening  plain,  well  stocked  with 
buffalo.  Here  the  Snakes  and  Flatheads  joined  with 
the  white  hunters  in  a  successful  hunt,  that  soon  filled 
the  camp  with  provisions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September,  the  travel- 
lers parted  company  with  their  Indian  friends,  and 
continued  on  their  course  to  the  west.  A  march  of 
thirty  miles  brought  them,  in  the  evening,  to  the  banks 
of  a  rapid  and  beautifully  clear  stream  al30ut  a  hundred 
yards  wide.  It  is  the  north  fork  or  branch  of  the 
Bighorn  River,  but  bears  its  peculiar  name  of  the  Wind 
River,  from  being  subject  in  the  winter  season  to  a 
continued  blast  which  sweeps  its  banks  and  prevents 
the  snow  from  lying  on  them.     This  blast  is  said  to 


'A 


1-1 


240 


ASTORIA 


f.! 

hi 

s  - 


Mj 


m 


n 
II     * 


m 


be  caused  by  a  narrow  gap  or  funnel  in  the  mountains, 
tln-ough  which  the  river  forces  its  way  between  per- 
pendicular precipices,  resembling  cut  rocks. 

Tliis  river  gives  its  name  to  a  whole  range  of  moun- 
tains consisting  of  three  parallel  chains,  eighty  miles 
in  length,  and  about  twenty  or  twenty-live  broad.  One 
of  its  peaks  is  probably  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  being  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Rocky 
Sierra.  These  mountains  give  rise,  not  merely  to  the 
Wind  or  Bighorn  River,  but  to  several  branches  of 
the  Yellowstone  and  the  Misscjuri  on  the  cast,  and 
of  the  Columbia  and  Colorado  on  the  west;  thus  ili- 
viding  the  sources  of  these  mighty  streams. 

For  five  succeeding  days,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party 
continued  up  the  course  of  the  Wind  River,  to  the 
distance  of  about  eighty  miles,  crossing  and  recross- 
ing  it,  according  to  its  windings,  and  the  nature  of  its 
banks;  sometimes  passing  through  valleys,  at  other 
times  scrambling  over  rocks  and  hills.  The  country 
in  general  was  destitute  of  trees,  but  they  passed 
through  groves  of  wormwood,  eight  and  ten  feet  in 
height,  which  they  used  occasionally  for  fuel,  and  they 
met  with  large  quantities  of  wild  flax. 

The  mountains  were  destitute  of  game;  they  came 
in  sight  of  two  grizzly  bears,  but  could  not  get  near 
enough  for  a  shot;  provisions,  therefore,  began  to  be 
scanty.  They  saw  large  flights  of  the  kind  of  thrush 
commonly  called  the  robin,  and  many  smaller  birds 
of  migratory  species;  but  the  hills  in  general  ap- 
peared lonely  and  with  few  signs  of  animal  life.  On 
the  evening  of  the  14th  September,  they  encamped  on 
the  forks  of  the  Wind  or  Bighorn  River.  The  largest 
of  these  forks  came  from  the  range  of  Wind  River 
Mountains. 

The  hunters  who  served  as  guides  to  the  party  in 
this  part  of  their  route,  had  assured  Mr.  Hunt  that, 
by   following  up  Wind  River,  and  crossing  a  single 


ntains, 
n  per- 

muun- 

milcs 

.    One 

)ve  the 

R(jcky 

to  tlie 

hes  of 

it,   and 

lius  di- 

3  party 

to  the 

recross- 

e  of  its 

t  other 

zountry 

passed 

eet  in 

d  they 

came 
jt  near 

to  be 
thrush 
■  birds 
al  ap- 
On 
)ed  on 
[largest 

River 

irty  in 

It  that, 

single 


1 


ASTORIA 


241 


mountain  ridj^^c,  he  would  come  upon  the  head  waters 
of  the  Columl)ia.  This  scarcity  of  game,  however, 
which  already  had  l)een  felt  to  a  pinching  degree,  and 
which  threatened  them  with  famine  among  the  sterile 
hciglits  whicli  lay  Ijefore  them,  admonished  them  to 
change  their  course.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to 
make  for  a  stream,  which  they  were  informed  passed 
the  neighboring  mountains,  to  the  south  of  west,  on 
tlie  grassy  banks  of  which  it  u'as  probable  they  would 
meet  with  buffalo.  Accor(^'ngly,  about  three  o'clock 
on  the  following  day,  meeting  with  a  beaten  Indian 
road  which  led  in  the  proper  direction,  they  struck  into 
it,  turning  their  backs  upon  Wind  River. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  came  to  a  height  t1iat 
commanded  an  almost  boundless  prospect.  Here  one 
of  the  guides  paused,  and,  after  considering  the  vast 
landscape  attentively,  pointed  to  three  mountain  peaks 
glistening  with  snow\  which  rose,  he  said,  above  a 
fork  of  Columbia  River.  They  were  hailed  by  the 
travellers  with  that  joy  with  which  a  l)eacon  >n  a 
sea-shore  is  hailed  by  mariners  after  a  long  and  danger- 
ous voyage.  It  is  true  there  was  many  a  weary  league 
to  be  traversed  before  they  should  reach  these  land- 
marks, for,  allowing  for  their  evident  height  and  the 
extreme  transparency  of  the  atmosphere,  they  could 
not  be  much  less  than  a  hundred  miles  distant.  Even 
after  reaching  them,  there  would  yet  remain  hundreds 
of  miles  of  their  journey  to  be  accomplished.  All  these 
matters  were  forgotten  in  tlie  joy  at  seeing  the  first 
landmarks  of  the  Columbia,  that  river  which  fomied 
the  bourne  of  the  expedition.  These  remarkable  peaks 
were  known  as  the  Tetons;  as  guiding  points  for 
many  days,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  he  gave  them  the  name  of 
the  Pilot  Knobs. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  to  the  south 
of  west  for  about  forty  miles,  through  a  region  so 
elevated  that  patches  of  snow  lay  on  the  highest  sum- 

x6 


1' 


r| 


]f 


242 


ASTORIA 


niits  and  on  the  nurtlieni  (kclivities.  At  length  they 
canie  to  the  desired  stream,  the  ohject  of  tlieir  search, 
the  waters  of  vvhicli  flowed  to  the  west.  It  was,  in 
fact,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado,  whicli  falls  into  the 
Gulf  of  California,  and  had  received  from  the  hunters 
the  name  of  Spanish  River,  from  information  given 
by  the  Indians  that  Spaniards  resided  upon  its  lower 
waters. 

The  aspect  of  this  river  and  its  vicinity  was  cheer- 
ing to  the  wayworn  and  hungry  travellers.  Its  banks 
were  green,  and  there  were  grassy  valleys  running 
from  it  in  various  directions,  into  the  heart  of  the 
rugged  mountains,  with  herds  of  buffalo  quietly  graz- 
ing. The  hunters  sallied  forth  with  keen  alacrity,  and 
soon  returned  laden  with  provisions. 

In  this  part  of  the  mountains  Mr.  Hunt  met  with 
three  different  kinds  of  gooseberries.  The  common 
purple,  on  a  low  and  very  thorny  bush ;  a  yellow  kind, 
of  an  excellent  flavor,  growing  on  a  stock  free  from 
thorns;  and  a  deep  purple,  of  the  size  and  taste  of  our 
winter  grape,  with  a  thorny  stalk.  There  w-ere  also 
three  kinds  of  currants,  one  very  large  and  well  tasted, 
of  a  purple  color,  and  growing  on  a  bush  eight  or  nine 
feet  high.  Another  of  a  yellow  color,  and  of  the  size 
and  taste  of  the  large  red  currant,  the  bush  four  or 
five  feet  high;  and  the  third  a  beautiful  scarlet,  re- 
sembling the  strawberry  in  sweetness,  though  rather 
insipid,  and  growing  on  a  low  bush. 

On  the  17th  they  continued  down  the  course  of  the 
river,  making  fifteen  miles  to  the  southwest.  The 
river  abounded  with  geese  and  ducks,  and  there  were 
signs  of  its  being  inhabited  by  beaver  and  otters :  in- 
deed they  were  now  approaching  regions  where  these 
animals,  the  great  objects  of  the  fur  trade,  are  said 
to  abound.  They  encamped  for  the  night  opposite  the 
end  of  a  mountain  in  the  west,  which  was  probably  the 
last  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.    On  the  following 


ASTORIA 


243 


they 


t  with 

mnion 

'  kind, 

from 

f  our 

also 

astetl, 

r  nine 

e  size 

ur  or 

t,  re- 

ather 

»f  the 
The 
were 
:  in- 
these 
said 
te  the 
y  the 
Uving 


mortiin.u:  they  abandoned  the  main  course  of  Sjjanish 
River,  and  taking  a  northwest  (hrcction  for  ei^ht  miles, 
came  upon  one  of  its  little  tributaries,  issuing"  out  of 
the  bosom  of  the  mountams,  and  rumiing  throuijh 
green  meadows,  yielding  pasturage  to  herds  of  buffalo. 
As  these  were  probably  the  last  of  that  animal  they 
would  meet  with,  they  encamped  on  the  grassy  banks 
of  the  river,  determining  to  spend  several  days  in 
hunting,  so  as  to  be  able  to  jerk  suflicient  meat  to 
supply  them  until  they  should  reach  the  waters  of  die 
Columbia,  where  they  trusted  to  find  fish  enough  for 
their  support.  A  little  repose,  too.  was  necessary  for 
both  men  and  horses,  after  their  rugged  and  incessant 
marching;  having  in  the  course  of  the  last  seventeen 
days  traversed  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  rough, 
and  in  many  parts  sterile,  mountain  country. 


CHAPTER    XXX 

Five  days  were  passed  by  Mr.  Himt  and  his  compan- 
ions in  the  fresh  meadows  watered  by  the  !)right  little 
mountain  stream.  The  hunters  made  great  havoc 
among  the  buffaloes,  and  brought  in  quantities  of 
meat ;  the  voyageurs  busied  themselves  about  the  fires, 
roasting  and  stewing  for  present  purposes,  or  drying 
provisions  for  the  journey;  the  pack-horses,  eased  of 
their  burdens,  rolled  on  the  grass,  or  grazed  at  large 
about  the  ample  pastures ;  those  of  the  party  wl'o  had 
no  call  upon  their  services,  indulged  in  the  luxury  of 
perfect  relaxation,  and  the  camp  presented  a  picture 
of  rude  feasting  and  revelry,  of  mingled  bustle  and 
repose,  characteristic  of  a  halt  in  a  fine  hunting  coun- 
try. In  the  course  of  one  of  their  excursions,  some  of 
the  men  came  in  sight  of  a  small  party  of  Indians,  who 
instantly  fied  in  great  apparent  consternation.     They 


n 


i 

''■: 


m 


f' 


I 


mi 


m 


I 


:'y  $ 


244 


ASTORIA 


immediately  returned  to  camp  with  the  intcllig^encc : 
upon  which  Mr.  Hunt  and  four  others  llun^  themselves 
upon  their  horses,  and  sallied  forth  to  reconnoitre. 
After  riding  for  about  eight  miles,  they  came  upon 
a  wild  mountain  scene.  A  lonely  green  valley  stretched 
before  them,  surrounded  by  rugged  heights.  A  herd 
of  buffalo  were  careering-  madly  througii  it,  with  a  troop 
of  savage  horsemen  in  full  chase  plying  them  with 
their  bows  and  arrows.  The  api)earance  of  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  companions  put  an  abrupt  end  to  the  hunt; 
the  buffalo  scuttled  oil  in  one  direction,  while  the 
Indians  plied  their  lashes  and  galloped  off  in  another, 
as  fast  as  their  steeds  could  carry  them.  Mr.  Hunt 
gave  chase;  there  was  a  sliarp  scamper,  though  (;f 
short  continuance.  Two  young  Indians,  who  were  in- 
differently mounted,  were  soon  overtaken.  They  were 
terribly  frightened,  and  evidently  gave  themselves  up 
for  lost.  By  degrees  their  fears  were  allayed  by  kind 
treatment;  Init  they  continued  to  regard  the  strangers 
with  a  mixture  of  awe  and  wonder,  for  it  was  the 
first  time  in  their  li\es  they  had  c\er  seen  a  white  man. 
They  belonged  to  a  party  of  Snakes  who  had  come 
across  the  mountains  on  their  autumnal  hunting  ex- 
cursion to  provide  buffaio  meat  for  the  winter,  lieing 
persuaded  of  the  peaceable  intentions  of  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  coj.ipanions,  they  willingly  conducted  them  to  their 
camp.  It  was  pitched  in  a  narrow  valley  on  tlie  margin 
of  a  stream.  'J'he  tents  were  of  dressed  skins,  some 
of  them  fantastically  painted;  with  horses  grazing 
about  them.  The  approach  of  the  party  caused  a  tr:m- 
sient  alarm  in  the  camp,  for  these  poor  Indians  were 
ever  o!i  the  look-out  for  cruel  foes.  No  sooner,  how- 
ever, did  they  recognize  the  garb  and  complexion  of 
their  visitors,  than  tlieir  apprehensions  were  changed 
into  joy;  for  some  of  them  had  dealt  with  white  men, 
and  knew  them  to  be  friendly,  and  to  abound  with 
articles  of  singular  value.    They  welcomed  them,  there- 


ASTORIA 


245 


and 
Llieir 
iro-in 
L)ine 
Izinff 
:r:in- 
ivcre 

U)\V- 

n  of 

liien, 

Ivilh 


fore,  to  their  tents,  set  food  before  them;  and  enter- 
tained thcni  lo  tlie  best  of  their  power. 

'J1iey  had  been  snccessfnl  in  their  hnnt,  and 
their  eanij)  was  fnll  of  jerked  buffalo  meat,  all  of  the 
choicest  kind,  and  extremely  fat.  Mr.  Hunt  purchased 
en.)US4h  of  them,  in  addition  to  what  had  been  killed 
and  cured  by  his  own  hunters,  to  load  all  the  horses 
excei)lin<i;-  those  reserved  for  the  partners  and  the  wife 
of  I'ierre  Dorion.  He  found,  also,  a  few  beaver  skins 
in  their  camp,  for  which  he  paid  liberally,  as  an  induce- 
ment to  them  to  hunt  for  more;  infornu'nj:^  them  that 
some  of  his  party  intended  to  live  amonj;-  the  moun- 
tains, and  trade  with  the  native  hunters  for  their  pel- 
tries. The  poor  Snakes  soon  comprehended  the  ad- 
\anta.q-es  thus  held  out  to  them,  and  promised  to  exert 
themselves  to  procure  a  quantity  of  beaver  skins  for 
future  traffic. 

Ueini^-  now  v.ell  sup])lied  with  provisions,  Mr.  Hunt 
broke  u])  his  encamiiment  on  the  24tli  of  September, 
and  continued  on  to  the  west.  A  march  of  fifteen 
r.iiles,  over  a  mountain  ridi^-e.  l)nm,G;'ht  them  to  a  stream 
about  fifty  feet  in  width,  which  lloback,  one  of  their 
.^•uides,  wlu)  had  trajiped  about  the  nei.£;hborhood  when 
in  the  service  of  Mr.  Henry,  recocfnized  for  one  of  the 
head  waters  of  tlie  Columl)ia.  The  travellers  hailed 
it  with  {lelii;ht,  as  tlie  first  stream  they  had  encountered 
tendinj^  toward  their  point  of  destination.  They  kept 
aloni;-  it  f(M-  two  days,  duriuii^  which,  from  the  con- 
tribution of  many  rills  and  brooks,  it  gradually  swelled 
into  a  small  ri\er.  As  it  meandered  amonj^  rocks  and 
l)recipices,  they  were  frequently  obliged  to  ford  it,  and 
sucii  w.'is  its  rapidity,  tliat  the  men  were  often  in  danjT;-er 
of  beiui^-  swejjt  away.  Sometimes  the  banks  adxanced 
so  close  u|)on  the  river,  that  they  were  oblij^ed  to 
scramble  up  and  down  their  rugged  promontories,  or 
to  skirt  alonir  their  bases   where  there  was  scarce  a 


If 


I 


'.^ 


foothold.     Their  horses  had  dangerous  falls  in  some 


246 


ASTORIA 


of  these  passes.  One  of  them  rolled,  with  his  load, 
nearly  two  hundred  feet  down  hill  into  the  river,  but 
without  receiving  any  injury.  At  length  they  emerged 
from  these  stupendous  dehles,  and  continued  for  sev- 
eral miles  along  the  bank  of  Hoback's  River,  through 
one  of  the  stcMn  mountain  valleys.  Here  it  was  joined 
by  a  river  of  greater  magnitude  and  swifter  current, 
and  their  united  waters  swept  off  through  the  valley 
in  one  impetuous  stream,  which,  fron^  its  rapidity  and 
turbulence,  had  received  the  name  of  /he  Mad  River. 
At  the  confluence  of  these  streams  the  travellers  en- 
cami)ed.  An  important  point  in  their  arduous  journey 
had  been  attained,  a  few  miles  from  their  camp  rose 
the  three  vast  snowy  peaks  called  the  Tetons,  or  the 
Pilot  Knobs,  the  great  landmarks  of  the  Columbia, 
by  which  they  had  shaped  their  course  through  this 
mountain  wilderness.  By  their  feet  flowed  the  rapid 
current  of  Mad  River,  a  stream  ample  enough  to  ad- 
mit of  the  navigation  of  canoes,  and  down  which  they 
might  possibly  be  able  to  steer  their  course  to  the  main 
body  of  the  Columbia.  The  Canadian  voyageurs  re- 
joiced at  the  idea  of  once  more  launching  themselves 
upon  their  favorite  element;  of  exchanging  their 
horses  for  canoes,  and  of  gliding  down  the  bosoms  of 
rivers,  instead  of  scrambling  over  the  backs  of  moun- 
tains. Others  of  the  party,  also,  inexperienced  in  this 
kind  of  travelling,  considered  their  toils  and  troubles 
as  drawing  to  a  close.  They  had  conquered  the  chief 
difficulties  of  this  great  rocky  barrier,  and  now  flat- 
tered themselves  with  the  hope  of  an  -^asy  downward 
course  for  the  rest  of  their  jf)urney.  Little  did  they 
dream  of  the  hardshii)S  and  perils  by  land  and  water, 
which  were  yet  to  be  encountered  in  the  frightful  wil- 
derness that  intervened  between  them  and  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific! 


ASTORIA 


247 


CHAPTER    XXXI 


On  the  banks  of  Mad  River  Mr.  Plunt  b.eld  a  consulta- 
tion with  the  other  partners  as  to  their  future  move- 
ments. The  wild  and  impetuous  current  of  the  river 
rendered  him  doubtful  whether  it  might  not  alx^und 
with  impediments  lower  down,  sufficient  to  render  the 
navigation  of  it  slow  and  ^jerilous,  if  not  impracticable. 
The  hunters  who  had  acted  as  guides,  knew  nothing 
of  the  character  of  the  river  below;  what  rocks,  and 
shoals,  and  rapids  might  obstruct  it,  or  through  what 
mountains  and  deserts  it  might  pass,  ^-hotdd  they  then 
abandon  their  horses,  cast  themselve'  lOose  in  fragile 
barks  upon  this  wild,  doul)tful,  a<- '  unknown  river; 
or  should  they  continue  their  more  toilsome  and  tedi- 
ous, but  perhaps  more  certain  wayfaring  by  land? 

The  vote,  as  might  have  been  expected,  was  almost 
unanimous  for  embarkation;  for  when  men  are  in  diffi- 
culties every  change  seems  to  l)e  for  the  better.  The 
dithculty  now  was  to  find  timber  of  sufficient  size  for 
the  construction  of  canoes,  the  trees  in  these  high 
mountain  regions  being  chiefly  a  scrubbed  growth  of 
pines  and  cedars,  aspens,  haws,  and  service-berries, 
and  a  small  kind  of  colton-tree,  with  a  leaf  rescml)ling 
that  of  the  willow.  There  was  a  species  of  large  fir, 
but  so  full  of  knots  as  to  endanger  the  axe  in  hewing 
it.  After  searcliing  for  some  time,  a  growth  of  timber, 
of  sufficient  size,  was  found  lower  down  the  river, 
whereupon  the  encampment  was  moved  to  the  vicinity. 

The  men  were  now  set  'u  work  to  fell  trees,  and 
the  mountains  echoed  to  the  unwonted  sound  of  their 
axes.  While  preparations  were  thus  going  on  for  a 
voyage  down  the  river.  Mr.  Hunt,  who  still  entertained 
doubts  of  its  practicability,  dispatched  an  exploring 
party,  consisting  of  John  liceL],  the  clerk,  John  Day, 


o 


f)! 


V 

h 

I' 


248 


ASTORIA 


the  hunter,  and  Pierre  Dorion,  tlie  interpreter,  with 
orders  to  proceed  several  days'  march  along  the  stream, 
and  notice  its  course  and  character. 

After  their  departure,  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his  thoughts 
to  another  object  of  importance.  He  had  now  arrived 
at  the  htad  waters  of  the  Columbia,  which  were  among 
the  main  points  emb  aced  by  the  enterprise  of  Mr. 
Astor.  These  upper  streams  were  reputed  to  abound 
in  beaver,  and  had  as  yet  been  unmolested  by  the  white 
trapper.  The  numerous  signs  of  beaver  met  with  dur- 
ing the  recent  search  for  timber,  gave  evidence  that 
the  neighborhood  was  a  good  "  trapping  ground." 
Here,  then,  it  was  proper  to  begin  to  cast  loose  those 
leashes  of  hardy  trappers  that  are  detached  from  trad- 
ing parties  in  the  very  heart  of  the  wilderness.  The 
men  detached  in  the  present  instance  were  iVlexander 
Carson,  Louis  St.  Michel,  Pierre  Detaye,  and  Pierre 
Delaunay.  Trapper^  generally  go  in  pairs,  that  they 
may  assist,  protect,  and  comfort  each  other  in  their 
lonely  and  perilous  occupations.  Hius  Carson  and  St. 
Michel  formed  one  couple,  and  Detaye  and  Delaunay 
another.  They  were  fitted  out  with  traps,  arms,  am- 
munition, horses,  and  e\'ery  other  requisite,  and  were 
to  trap  upon  the  upper  part  of  Mad  River,  and  upon 
the  neighlxjring  streams  of  tiie  mountains.  This 
would  probably  occupy  them  for  some  mcjuths;  and, 
when  they  should  have  collected  a  sufhcient  ([uantity 
of  peltries,  they  were  to  pack  them  upon  their  horses 
and  make  the  best  of  their  way  to  the  mouth  of 
Columbia  l\i\er,  or  to  any  intermediate  post  which 
nn'ght  be  established  by  the  company.  They  took  leave 
ot  their  comrades  and  started  off  on  their  several 
cour?«s  with  stout  hearts  and  cheerful  countenances; 
though  these  lonely  cruisings  into  a  wild  and  hostile 
wilderness  seem  to  the  uninitiated  equivalent  to  being 
cast  adrift  in  the  ship's  yawl  in  the  m'dst  of  tiie  ocean. 

Of   the   perils   that   attend   the   lonely    trapper,    the 


ASTORIA 


249 


/ 


ices ; 
jstile 
Icing 
[can. 
llic 


reader  will  have  suflicient  proof,  when  lie  conies,  in 
the  after  pait  of  this  work,  to  learn  the  hard  f(3rtunes 
of  these  poc "  fellows  in  the  course  of  their  wild 
peregrinations 

The  trappers  had  not  long  departed,  when  two  Snake 
Indians  wandered  into  the  camp.  When  they  perceived 
that  the  strangers  were  fahricating  canoes,  tiiey  shook 
their  heads  and  gave  them  to  understand  that  the  river 
was  not  navigable.  Their  information,  however,  was 
scoffed  vd  by  some  of  the  party,  who  were  obstinately 
l)ent  on  embarkation,  but  was  conlirmed  by  the  ex- 
ploring party,  who  returned  after  several  days'  al>- 
sence.  'I  hey  had  kept  along  the  river  with  great  ditVi- 
culty  for  two  days,  and  found  it  a  narrow,  crooked, 
turbulent  stream,  conbned  in  a  rocky  channel,  with 
many  rapids,  and  occasionally  overhung  with  preci- 
pices. From  the  summit  of  one  of  these  they  had 
caught  a  bird's-eye  view  of  its  boisterous  career  for 
a  great  distance  through  the  heart  of  the  mountain, 
witli  impending  rocks  and  cliffs.  Satisfied  from  this 
view  that  it  was  useless  to  follow  its  course,  either 
by  land  or  water,  they  had  given  up  all  further 
investigation. 

These  concurring  reports  determined  Mr.  Hunt  to 
abandon  Mad  Ri\er,  and  seek  some  more  navigable 
stream.  I'his  determination  was  concurred  in  by  all 
his  associates  excepting  Mr.  Miller,  who  had  become 
impatient  of  the  fatigue  of  land  travel,  and  was  for 
immciliate  embarkation  at  all  hazards.  This  gentle- 
man had  beeii  in  a  gloomy  and  irritated  state  of  mind 
for  some  time  past,  being  troubled  with  a  bodily  mal- 
ady that  rendered  travelling  on  horseback  extremely 
irksome  to  In'm,  and  being,  UKjreover,  discontented  with 
having  a  smaller  share  in  tlie  expedition  than  his  com- 
rades. His  unreasonal)le  objections  to  a  further  march 
by  land  were  overruled,  and  the  party  prepared  to 
decamp. 


til 
1:1 

H 
l\ 

J 


I   ) 


!;!«'■ 


Si" 


r  ! 


i 


ftf 


I  J 


2^0 


ASTORIA 


Robinson,  riol)ack.  and  Rczncr,  the  three  hunters 
who  had  hitherto  served  as  j^^uides  among  tlie  moun- 
tains, now  stepped  forward,  and  advised  Mr.  Hunt 
to  make  for  tlie  post  estabhsheil  (huMuj^  the  precechni; 
year  by  Mr.  Henry,  of  the  Missouri  Fur  Coniinmy. 
They  liad  Ijeen  with  Mr.  Henry,  and,  as  far  as  they 
could  judge  by  the  neighboring  lan(hnarks,  his  post 
coukl  not  be  very  far  off.  They  presumed  tliere  coukl 
be  but  one  intervening  ridge  of  mountains,  whicli 
nn'ght  be  passed  without  any  great  (bft'iculty.  Henry's 
jx)st,  or  fort,  was  on  an  upper  branch  of  tlie  Columbia, 
d(jwn  which  they  made  no  doubt  it  would  be  easy  to 
navigate  in  canoes. 

The  two  Snake  Indians  being  questioned  in  the 
matter,  showed  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  situation 
of  the  post,  and  offered,  with  great  alacrity,  to  guide 
them  to  the  place.  Their  offer  was  accepted,  greatly 
to  the  displeasure  of  Mr.  Miller,  who  seemed  obsti- 
nately bent  upon  braving  the  perils  of  Mad  River. 

The  weather  for  a  few  days  past  had  been  stormy, 
with  rain  and  sleet.  The  Rocky  Mountains  are  sub- 
ject to  tempestuous  winds  from  the  west;  these  some- 
times come  in  flaws  or  currents,  making  a  path  through 
the  forests  many  yards  in  width,  and  whirling  off 
trunks  and  branches  to  a  great  distance.  Tlie  present 
storm  subsided  on  the  third  of  October,  leaving  all 
the  surrounding  heights  covered  with  snow;  for, 
while  rain  had  fallen  m  the  valley,  it  had  snowed  on 
the  hill-tops. 

On  the  4th,  they  broke  up  their  encampment,  and 
crossed  the  river,  the  water  coming  up  to  the  girths 
of  their  horses.  After  travelling  four  miles,  they  en- 
camped at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the  last,  as  they 
hoped,  which  thcj'  should  have  to  traverse.  Four  days 
more  took  them  across  it,  and  over  several  plains, 
watered  by  beautiful  little  streams,  tributaries  of  IMad 
River.     Near  one  of  their  encampments  there  was  a 


ASTORIA 


off 

^sent 

all 

for, 

i\  on 

and 

irths 

en- 

they 

|lays 

tins, 

^lad 

IS  a 


hot  sprinj^  continually  cniitlinj^  a  cloud  of  vapor. 
These  elevated  plains,  which  j^ive  a  i)eculiar  character 
to  the  mountains,  are  freciuented  by  large  ganj;s  of 
antelopes,  ileet  as  the  wind. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th  of  October,  after  a  cold 
wintry  day,  with  gusts  of  westerly  wind  and  Hurries 
of  snow,  they  arrived  at  the  sought-for  post  of  Mr. 
Henry.  Here  he  had  fixed  himself,  after  being  com- 
pelled by  the  hostilities  of  the  Black  feet,  to  alxmdon 
the  upi)cr  waters  of  the  Missouri.  'J'he  post,  however, 
was  deserted,  for  Mr.  Henry  had  left  it  in  the  course 
of  the  preceding  spring,  and,  as  it  afterwards  ap- 
peared, had  fallen  in  with  Air.  Lisa,  at  the  Arickara 
village  on  the  Missouri,  some  time  after  Uie  separation 
of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 

The  weary  travellers  gladly  took  possession  of  the 
deserted  log  huts  which  had  formed  the  post,  and  which 
stood  cm  the  bank  of  a  stream  upwards  of  a  hundred 
yards  wide,  on  which  they  intended  to  embark.  There 
being  plenty  of  suitable  timber  in  the  neighborhood, 
Mr.  Hunt  immediately  proceeded  to  construct  canoes. 
As  he  would  have  to  leave  his  horses  and  their  ac- 
coutrements here,  he  determined  to  make  this  a  trad- 
ing post,  where  the  tranpers  and  hunters,  to  be  dis- 
tributed about  the  country,  might  repair;  and  where 
the  traders  might  touch  on  their  way  through  the 
mountains  to  and  from  the  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  the  C'-!'i;:':''bi:*.  He  informed  the  two  Snake  Indians 
of  tl'is  determination,  and  engaged  them  to  remain 
in  that  neighborhood  and  take  care  of  the  !it>r:.cs  until 
the  white  men  should  return,  promising  them  ami)le 
rewards  for  their  fidelity.  It  fliay  seem  a  desperate 
chance  to  trust  to  the  faith  and  honesty  of  two  such 
vagabonds ;  but,  as  the  horses  would  have,  at  all  events, 
to  be  abandoned,  and  would  otherwise  become  the 
property  of  the  first  vagrant  horde  that  should  en- 
counter them,  it  was  one  chance  in  favor  of  their  being 
regained. 


^V 


I ' 


) 

»  ) 

i 
t 

5 
t 

1: 

* 


M;i ,. 


-J- 


ASTORIA 


At  tin's  place  another  detachnient  of  luinters  prc- 
l)arecl  to  sei)arate  from  the  party  for  the  purpose  of 
Irappint^  heaver.  Three  of  these  had  already  heen 
in  this  neighhorhood,  beinij^  the  veteran  Robinson  and 
his  companions,  llohack  and  Rezner,  who  had  accom- 
panied Air.  I  lein"y  across  the  mountains,  and  who  had 
l)een  picked  \\\)  by  Mr.  Hunt  on  the  Missouri,  on  their 
way  home  to  Kentucky.  Accordin<»'  to  a,t^reement  they 
were  futed  out  with  horses,  trai)s,  amnuinition.  and 
exerythin,^:  requisite  for  their  undertakiuii^,  and  were  to 
brini^  in  all  the  peltries  they  should  collect,  either  to 
this  tradiuj;'  post,  or  to  the  establishment  at  the  mouth 
of  Columbia  River.  Anc^ther  hunter,  of  the  name  of 
Cass,  was  associated  with  them  in  their  enterprise. 
It  is  in  this  way  that  small  knots  of  trappers  and 
hunters  are  distributed  about  the  wilderness  by  the 
fur  companies,  and  like  cranes  and  bitterns,  haunt  its 
solitary  streams.  Robinson,  the  Kentuckian,  the  vet- 
eran of  the  "  bloody  ground,"  who,  as  has  already  l)een 
noted,  had  been  scali)ed  by  the  Indians  in  his  younger 
days,  was  the  leader  of  this  little  band.  When  they 
were  about  to  depart,  IMr.  Miller  called  the  partners 
toiii'ether,  and  threw  up  his  share  in  the  company,  de- 
clariui^-  his  intention  of  joining  the  party  of  trappers. 

This  resolution  struck  every  one  with  astonishment. 
Mr.  Miller  being-  a  man  of  education  and  of  cultivated 
habits,  and  little  fitted  for  the  rude  life  of  a  hunter. 
P)esides,  the  precarious  and  slender  profits  arising  from 
such  a  life  were  l)eneath  the  prospects  of  one  who  held 
a  share  in  the  general  enterprise.  Mr.  Hunt  was  espe- 
cially concerned  and  mortified  at  his  determination,  as 
it  was  throuHi  his  adtice  and  influence  he  had  entered 
into  the  concern.  He  endeavored,  therefore,  to  dis- 
suade him  from  this  sudden  resolution ;  representing 
its  rashness,  and  the  hardships  and  perils  to  which  it 
would  expose  him.  He  earnestly  advised  him,  ho\v- 
cver  he  might  feel  dissatisfied  with  the  enterprise,  still 


ASTORIA 


253 


ners 
(le- 

:rs. 

ilCllt. 

[.'ited 
liter. 

roni 
IhcUl 
bspe- 

1.  as 

lerccl 

dis- 

Iting 

[h  it 

IstiU 


to  continue  on  in  company  until  tliey  should  reach 
the  mouth  of  Columbia  River.  There  they  would  meet 
the  expedition  that  was  to  coiue  hy  sea;  when,  should 
he  still  feel  disposed  to  rclin(|uish  the  undertakini^. 
Mr.  Hunt  pledi^ed  himscll  to  furnish  him  a  jjassaj^e 
home  in  one  of  the  vessels  heloui^in^i^"  to  the  company, 

'[\)  all  this  Miller  replied  al)rui>lly.  that  it  was  use- 
less to  ar^t^ue  with  him,  as  his  mind  was  made  up. 
'i'hey  might  furnish  him,  or  not,  as  they  pleased,  willi 
the  necessary  supplies,  hut  he  was  determined  to  part 
company  here,  and  set  off  with  the  trappers.  So  s;iy- 
ing,  he  Hung  out  of  their  i)resencc  without  vouch- 
saling  any  further  conversation. 

Much  as  this  wayward  conduct  gave  them  anxiety, 
the  partners  saw  it  was  in  vain  to  remonstrate,  luery 
attention  was  paid  to  fit  him  (jut  for  his  headstrong 
undertaking.  He  was  prcn-ided  with  four  horses,  and 
all  the  articles  he  required.  The  two  Snakes  under- 
took to  conduct  him  and  his  compani(^ns  to  an  encamp- 
ment of  their  tribe  lower  down  among  the  mountains, 
from  whom  they  would  receive  information  as  to  the 
best  trapping  grounds.  After  thus  guiding  them,  the 
Snakes  were  to  return  to  Fort  Henry,  as  the  new  trad- 
ing post  was  called,  and  take  charge  of  the  horses 
which  the  party  would  leave  there,  of  which,  after 
all  the  hunters  were  supplied,  there  remained  seventy- 
seven.  These  matters  l)eing  all  arranged,  Mr.  Miller 
set  out  with  his  companions,  under  guidance  of  the 
two  Snakes,  on  the  loth  of  October;  .and  much  did 
it  grieve  the  friends  of  that  gentleman  to  see  him  thus 
wantonly  casting  himself  loose  ui)on  savage  life.  How 
he  and  his  comrades  fared  in  the  wilderness,  and  how 
the  Snakes  acquitted  themselves  of  their  trust  respect- 
ing the  horses,  will  hereafter  appear  in  the  course  of 
these  rambling  anecdotes. 


11 


1 


t  > 


1; 

f 

f 
I 
I 
I 


-254 


ASTORIA 


I 


II   : 

If  i^ 


CHAPTER    XXXII 

While  the  canoes  were  in  preparation,  the  hunters 
ran^anl  about  the  ncigliborhood,  Init  with  httle  success. 
'I'racks  of  hulTaloes  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions, 
but  none  of  a  fresh  date.  There  were  some  elk,  but 
extremely  wild;  two  only  were  killed.  Antelopes  were 
likewise  seen,  but  too  shy  and  tleet  to  be  approached. 
A  few  beavers  were  taken  every  nij^dit,  and  salmon 
trout  of  a  small  size,  so  that  the  camp  had  principally 
to  subsist  upon  dried  butfalo  meat. 

On  the  i4tii,  a  poor,  half-naked  Snake  Indian,  one 
of  that  forlorn  caste  called  the  Shuckers,  or  Diggers, 
made  his  appeaiance  at  the  camp.  He  came  from 
some  lurking-place  among  the  rocks  and  cliffs,  and 
presented  a  picture  of  that  famishing  wretchedness  to 
which  these  lonely  fugitives  among  the  mountains  are 
sometimes  reduced.  Having  received  wherewithal  to 
allay  his  hunger,  he  disap()cared,  but  in  the  course  of 
a  day  or  two  returned  to  the  camp,  bringing  with  him 
his  son,  a  miserable  l)oy,  still  more  naked  and  forlorn 
than  himself.  Food  was  given  to  both;  they  skulked 
about  the  camp  like  hungry  hounds,  seeking  what  they 
might  devour,  and  having  gathered  up  the  feet  and 
entrails  of  some  beavers  that  were  lying  about,  slunk 
olf  with  them  to  their  den  among  the  rocks. 

By  the  i8th  of  October,  fifteen  canoes  were  com- 
pleted, and  on  the  following  day  the  party  embarked 
with  their  effects:  leaving  their  horses  grazing  about 
the  banks,  and  trusting  to  the  honesty  of  the  two 
Snakes,  and  some  special  turn  of  good  luck  for  their 
future  recovery. 

'fhe  ciu"rent  bore  them  along  at  a  rapid  rate;  the 
light  spirits  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  which  had 
occasionally   llagged   upon   land,    rose   to   their  accus- 


al'! 


ASTORIA 


-'55 


om- 
Iked 

)Ut 

It  wo 

beir 

the 
Ihad 
bus- 


UMiied  Ininyancy  on  finding  tlicnisclvcs  aj^ain  upon  the 
water.  They  wielded  tlieir  paddles  with  theii'  wonted 
dexterity,  and  for  the  first  time  made  the  n^-'Uriiaiiis 
eeho  with  their  favorite  boat-songs. 

In  the  eourse  of  the  day  the  little  squadr'm  arrived 
at  the  eonfluer.ce  of  Henry  and  Mad  Rivers,  wliieh, 
thus  united,  swelled  into  a  beautiful  stream  of  a  lij^dit 
pea-.c^reen  color,  navij^able  lor  boats  of  any  size,  and 
which,  from  the  place  of  junction,  took  the  name  of 
Snake  River,  a  stream  doomed  to  be  the  scene  of  much 
disaster  to  the  travellers.  The  banks  were  here  and 
there  fringed  with  willow  thickets  and  small  cotton- 
wood  trees,  "j'he  weather  was  cold,  and  it  snowed  all 
day,  and  great  ilocks  of  ducks  and  geese,  sporting  in 
the  water  or  streaming  through  the  air,  gave  token  that 
winter  was  at  hand;  yet  the  hearts  of  the  travellers 
were  light,  and,  as  they  glided  down  the  little  river, 
they  flattered  themselves  with  the  hope  of  soon  reach- 
ing the  Columbia.  After  making  thirty  miles  in  a 
southerly  direction,  they  encamped  for  the  night  in  a 
neighborho(Kl  which  required  some  little  vigilance,  as 
there  were  recent  traces  of  grizzly  bears  among  the 
thickets. 

On  the  following  day  the  riser  increased  in  width 
and  beauty;  flowing  parallel  to  a  range  t)f  mountains 
on  the  left,  which  at  times  were  finely  reflected  in  its 
light  green  waters.  The  three  snowy  summits  of  the 
Pilot  Knobs  or  Tetons  were  still  seen  towering  in  the 
distance.  After  pursuing  a  swift  but  placid  course 
for  twenty  miles,  the  current  began  to  foam  anil  brawl, 
and  assume  the  wild  and  broken  character  common  to 
the  streams  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  fact 
the  rivers  which  flow  from  those  mountains  to  the 
Pacific,  are  essentially  dilTerent  from  those  which 
traverse  the  great  prairies  on  their  eastern  declivities. 
The  latter,  though  sometimes  boisterous,  are  gener- 
ally free  from  obstructions,  and  easily  navigated;    but 


'  1 


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i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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V 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


y:^ 


la""' 

m 


256 


ASTORIA 


the  rivers  to  the  west  of  the  mountains  descend  more 
steeply  and  impetuously,  and  are  continually  liable  to 
cascades  and  rapids.  The  latter  abounded  in  the  part 
of  the  river  which  the  travellers  were  now  descendins^. 
Two  of  the  canoes  filled  among  the  breakers;  the 
crews  were  saved,  but  much  of  the  lading  was  lost  or 
damaged,  and  one  of  the  canoes  drifted  down  the 
stream  and  was  broken  among  the  rocks. 

On  the  following  day,  October  21st,  they  made  but 
a  short  distance  when  they  came  to  a  dangerous  strait, 
where  the  river  was  compressed  for  nearly  half  a  mile 
between  perpendicular  rocks,  reducing  it  to  the  width 
of  twenty  yards,  and  increasing  its  violence.  Here 
they  were  obliged  to  pass  the  canoes  down  cautiously 
by  a  line  from  the  impending  banks.  This  consumed 
a  great  part  of  a  day;  and  after  they  had  reembarked 
they  were  soon  again  impeded  by  rapids,  when  they 
had  to  unload  their  canoes  and  carry  them  and  their 
cargoes  for  some  distance  by  land.  It  is  at  these  places, 
called  "  portages,"  that  the  Canadian  voyageur  ex- 
hibits his  most  valuable  qualities ;  carrying  heavy  bur- 
dens, and  toiling  to  and  fro,  on  land  and  in  the  water, 
over  rocks  and  precipices,  among  brakes  and  bram- 
bles, not  only  without  a  murmur,  but  with  the  greatest 
cheerfulness  and  alacrity,  joking  and  laughing  and 
singing  scraps  of  old  French  ditties. 

The  spirits  of  the  party,  however,  which  had  been 
elated  on  first  varying  their  journeying  from  land  to 
water,  had  now  lost  some  of  their  iDUoyancy.  Every- 
thing ahead  was  wrapped  in  uncertainty.  They  knew 
nothing  of  the  river  on  which  they  were  floating.  It 
had  never  been  navigated  by  a  white  man,  nor  could 
they  meet  with  an  Indian  to  give  them  any  information 
concerning  it.  It  kept  on  its  course  through  a  vast 
wilderness  of  silent  and  apparently  uninhabited  moun- 
tains, without  a  savage  wigwam  upon  its  banks,  or 
bark  upon  its  waters.    The  difficulties  and  perils  they 


ASTORIA 


257 


1 

1/ 


very- 
<new 
It 
could 
ation 
vast 
■loun- 
s,  or 
they 


l:ad  already  passed,  made  them  apprehend  others  be- 
fore them,  that  might  effectually  bar  their  progress. 
As  they  glided  onward,  however,  tiiey  regained  heart 
and  hope.  The  current  continued  to  be  strong;  but 
it  was  steady,  and  though  they  met  with  frecjuent 
rapids,  none  of  them  were  bad.  INIountains  were  con- 
stantly to  be  seen  in  different  directions,  but  some- 
times the  sw'iit  river  glided  through  prairies,  and  was 
bordered  by  small  cotton-wood  trees  and  willows. 
These  prairies  at  certain  seasons  are  ranged  by  mi- 
gratory herds  of  the  wide-wandering  buffalo,  the 
tracks  of  which,  though  not  of  recent  date,  were  fre- 
quently to  be  seen.  Here,  too,  were  to  be  found  the 
prickly  pear  or  Indian  fig,  a  plant  which  loves  a  more 
southern  climate.  On  the  land  w^ere  large  flights  of 
magpies  and  American  robins ;    whole  fleets  of  ducks 


and   geese  navigated   the  river,   or   flew   off   in 


long 


streaming  files  at  the  approach  of  the  canoes ;  wdiile 
the  frequent  establishments  of  the  painstaking  and 
quiet-loving  beaver,  showed  that  the  solitude  of  these 
waters  was  rarely  disturbed,  even  by  the  all-pervading 
savage. 

They  had  now  come  near  two  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  since  leaving  Fort  Henry,  yet  without  seeing 
a  human  being,  or  a  human  habitation;  a  wild  and 
desert  solitude  extended  on  either  side  of  the  river, 
apparently  almost  destitute  of  animal  life.  At  length, 
on  the  24th  of  October,  they  were  gladdened  by  the 
sight  of  some  savage  tents,  and  hastened  to  land  and 
visit  them,  for  they  were  anxious  to  procure  informa- 
tion to  guide  them  on  their  route.  On  their  approach, 
however,  the  savages  fled  in  consternation.  They 
proved  to  be  a  wandering  band  of  Shoshonies.  In 
their  tents  were  great  quantities  of  small  fish  about 
two  inches  long,  together  with  roots  and  seeds,  or 
grain,  which  they  were  drying  for  winter  provisions. 
They  appeared  to  be  destitute  of  tools  of  any  kind, 

17 


f    I 


I  f 
III 

11' 


1    ) 


258 


ASTORIA 


T 


llil: 


yet  there  were  bows  and  arrows  very  well  made;  the 
former  were  formed  of  pine,  cedar,  or  bone,  strength- 
ened by  sinews,  and  the  latter  of  the  wood  of  rose- 
bushes, and  other  crooked  plants,  but  carefully  straight- 
ened, and  tipped  with  stone  of  a  bottle-green  color. 

There  were  also  vessels  of  willow  and  grass,  so 
closely  wrought  as  to  hold  water,  and  a  seine  neatly 
made  with  meshes,  in  the  ordinary  manner,  of  the 
fibres  of  wild  flax  or  nettle.  The  humble  effects  of 
the  poor  savages  remained  unmolested  by  their  visitors, 
and  a  few  small  articles,  with  a  knife  or  two,  were  left 
in  the  camp,  and  were  no  doubt  regarded  as  invaluable 
prizes. 

Shortly  after  leaving  this  deserted  camp,  and  re- 
embarking  in  the  canoes,  the  travellers  met  with  three 
of  the  Snakes  on  a  triangular  raft  made  of  flags  or 
reeds;  such  was  their  rude  mode  of  navigating  the 
river.  They  were  entirely  naked  excepting  small 
mantles  of  hare  skins  over  their  shoulders.  The  canoes 
approached  near  enough  to  gain  a  full  view  of  them, 
but  they  were  not  to  be  brought  to  a  parley. 

All  further  progress  for  the  day  was  barred  by  a 
fall  in  the  river  of  about  thirty  feet  perpendicular;  at 
the  head  of  which  the  party  encamped  for  the  night. 

The  next  day  was  one  of  excessive  toil  and  but  little 
progress :  the  river  winding  through  a  wild  rocky 
country,  and  being  interrupted  by  frequent  rapids, 
among  which  the  canoes  were  in  great  peril.  On  the 
succeeding  day  they  again  visited  a  camp  of  wander- 
ing Snakes,  but  the  inhabitants  fled  with  terror  at  the 
sight  of  a  fleet  of  canoes,  filled  with  white  men,  com- 
ing down  their  solitary  river. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  was  extremely  anxious  to  gain  in- 
formation concerning  his  route,  he  endeavored  by  all 
kinds  of  friendly  signs  to  entice  back  the  fugitives. 
At  length  one,  who  was  on  horseback,  ventured  back 
with  fear  and  trembling.     He  was  better  clad,  and  in 


ASTORIA 


259 


;  the 
;ngth- 

rose- 
aight- 
lor. 
ss,  so 
neatly 
)f  the 
cts  of 
sitors, 
re  left 
iluable 

nd  re- 
i  three 
ags  or 
ig  the 

small 
canoes 

them, 

by  a 
ar;  at 
ght. 

little 
rocky 
apids, 
)n  the 
ander- 
at  the 

com- 

,in  in- 
by  all 
itives. 
back 
md  in 


better  condition,  than  most  of  his  vagrant  tribe  that 
Mr.  Hunt  had  yet  seen.  The  chief  object  of  his  re- 
turn appeared  to  be  to  intercede  for  a  quantity  of 
dried  meat  and  salmon  trout,  which  he  had  left  be- 
hind; on  which,  probably,  he  depended  for  his  win- 
ter's subsistence.  The  poor  wretch  approached  with 
hesitation,  the  alternate  dread  of  famine  and  of  white 
men  operating  upon  his  mind.  He  made  the  most 
abject  signs,  imploring  Mr.  Hunt  not  to  carry  off  his 
food.  The  latter  tried  in  every  way  to  reassure  him, 
and  offered  him  knives  in  exchange  for  his  provisions ; 
great  as  was  the  temptation,  the  poor  Snake  could  only 
prevail  upon  himself  to  spare  a  part ;  keeping  a  fever- 
ish watch  over  the  rest,  lest  it  should  be  taken  away. 
It  was  in  vain  Mr.  Hunt  made  inquiries  of  him  con- 
cerning his  route,  and  the  course  of  the  river.  The 
Indian  was  too  much  frightened  and  bewildered  to 
comprehend  him  or  to  reply ;  he  did  nothing  but  alter- 
nately commend  himself  to  the  protection  of  the  Good 
Spirit,  and  supplicate  Mr.  Hunt  not  to  take  away  his 
fish  and  buffalo  meat ;  and  in  this  state  they  left  him, 
trembling  about  his  treasures. 

In  the  course  of  that  and  the  next  day  they  made 
nearly  eight  miles;  the  river  inclining  to  the  south  of 
west,  and  being  clear  and  beautiful,  nearly  half  a  mile 
in  width,  with  many  populous  communities  of  the 
beaver  along  its  banks.  The  28th  of  October,  how- 
ever, was  a  day  of  disaster.  The  river  again  became 
rough  and  impetuous,  and  was  chafed  and  broken  by 
numerous  rapids.  These  grew  more  and  more  danger- 
ous, and  the  utmost  skill  was  required  to  steer  among 
them.  Mr.  Crooks  was  seated  in  the  second  canoe  of 
the  squadron,  and  had  an  old  experienced  Canadian 
for  steersman,  named  Antoine  Clappine,  one  of  the 
most  valuable  of  the  voyageurs.  The  leading  canoe 
had  glided  safely  among  the  turbulent  and  roaring 
surges,  but  in  following  it,  Mr.  Crooks  perceived  that 


til 

li 
Ii 

4' 


I  ; 


¥  \\ 


i 


•141': 
1^ 


m 
If 


1:; 


r!|f 


ml 


i     !< 


:;!'  i: 


I   i 


I     -luil 


II 


260 


ASTORIA 


his  canoe  was  bearing  towards  a  rock.  He  called  out 
to  the  steersman,  but  his  warning  voice  was  either 
unheard  or  unheeded.  In  the  next  moment  they  struck 
upon  the  rock.  The  canoe  was  split  and  overturned. 
There  were  five  persons  on  board.  Mr.  Crooks  and 
one  of  his  companions  were  thrown  amidst  roaring 
breakers  and  a  whirling  current,  but  succeeded,  by 
strong  swimming,  to  reach  the  shore.  Clappine  and 
two  others  clung  to  the  shattered  bark,  and  drifted  with 
it  to  a  rock.  The  wreck  struck  the  rock  with  one  end, 
and  swinging  round,  flung  poor  Clappine  off  into 
the  raging  stream,  which  swept  him  away,  and  he  per- 
ished. His  comrades  succeeded  in  getting  upon  the 
rock,  from  whence  they  were  afterwards  taken  off. 

This  disastrous  event  brought  the  whole  squadron 
to  a  halt,  and  struck  a  chill  into  every  bosom.  In- 
deed, they  had  arrived  at  a  terrific  strait,  that  forbade 
all  further  progress  in  the  canoes,  and  dismayed  the 
most  experienced  voyageur.  The  whole  body  of  the 
river  was  compressed  into  a  space  of  less  than  thirty 
feet  in  width,  between  two  ledges  of  rocks,  upwards 
of  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  formed  a  w'hirling  and 
tumultuous  vortex,  so  frightfully  agitated,  as  to  re- 
ceive the  name  of  "  The  Caldron  Linn."  Beyond  this 
fearful  abyss,  the  river  kept  raging  and  roaring  on, 
until  lost  to  sight  among  impending  precipices. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  encamped  upon  the 
borders  of  the  Caldron  Linn,  and  held  gloomy  counsel 
as  to  their  future  course.  The  recent  wreck  had  dis- 
mayed even  the  voyageurs,  and  the  fate  of  their  popu- 
lar comrade,  Clappine,  one  of  the  most  adroit  and 
experienced  of  their  fraternity,  had  struck  sorrow  to 


ASTORIA 


261 


end, 
into 


the 

liinsel 

dis- 

)OpU- 

and 
Iw  to 


their  hearts,  for  with  all  their  levity,  these  thoughtless 
beings  have  great  kindness  towards  each  other. 

The  whole  distance  they  had  navigated  since  leaving 
Henry's  Fort,  was  computed  to  be  about  three  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles ;  strong  apprehensions  were  now 
entertained  that  the  tremendous  impediments  before 
them  would  oblige  them  to  abandon  their  canoes.  It 
was  determined  to  send  exploring  parties  on  each  side 
of  the  river  to  ascertain  whether  it  was  possible  to 
navigate  it  further.  Accordingly,  on  the  following 
morning,  three  men  were  dispatched  along  the  south 
bank,  while  Mr.  Hunt  and  three  others  proceeded  along 
the  north.  The  two  parties  returned  after  a  weary 
scramble  among  swamps,  rocks,  and  precipices,  and 
with  very  disheartening  accounts.  For  nearly  forty 
miles  that  they  had  explored,  the  river  foamed  and 
roared  along  through  a  deep  and  narrow  channel,  from 
twenty  to  thirty  yards  wide,  which  it  had  worn,  in  the 
course  of  ages,  through  the  heart  of  a  barren,  rocky 
country.  The  precipices  on  each  side  were  often  two 
and  three  hundred  feet  high,  sometimes  perpendicular, 
and  sometimes  overhanging,  so  that  it  was  impossible, 
excepting  in  one  or  two  places,  to  get  down  to  the 
margin  of  the  stream.  This  dreary  strait  was  ren- 
dered the  more  dangerous  by  frequent  rapids,  *and  oc- 
casionally perpendicular  falls  from  ten  to  forty  feet 
in  height;  so  that  it  seemed  almost  hopeless  to  at- 
tempt to  pass  the  canoes  down  it.  The  party,  however, 
who  had  explored  the  south  side  of  the  river  had  found 
a  place,  about  six  miles  from  the  camp,  where  they 
thought  it  possible  the  canoes  might  be  carried  down 
the  bank  and  launched  upon  the  stream,  and  from 
whence  they  might  make  their  way  with  the  aid  of 
occasional  portages.  Four  of  the  best  canoes  were 
accordingly  selected  for  the  experiment,  and  were 
transported  to  the  place  on  the  shoulders  of  sixteen 
of  the  men.    At  the  same  time  Mr.  Reed  the  clerk,  and 


I  i 


m 


■li'C 


l:^^"!**  I 


ill       *-^1l 


262 


ASTORIA 


three  men,  were  detached  to  explore  the  river  still 
further  down  than  the  previous  scouting  parties  had 
been,  and  at  the  same  time  to  look  out  for  Indians, 
from  whom  provisions  might  be  obtained,  and  a  sup- 
ply of  horses,  should  it  be  found  necessary  to  proceed 
by  land. 

The  party  who  had  been  sent  with  the  canoes  re- 
turned on  the  following  day,  weary  and  dejected.  One 
of  the  canoes  had  been  swept  away  with  all  the  weap- 
ons and  effects  of  four  of  the  voyageurs,  in  attempt- 
ing to  pass  it  down  a  rapid  by  means  of  a  line.  The 
other  three  had  stuck  fast  among  the  rocks,  so  that  it 
was  impossible  to  move  them ;  the  men  returned,  there- 
fore, in  despair,  and  declared  the  river  unnavigable. 

The  situation  of  the  unfortunate  travellers  was  now 
gloomy  in  the  extreme.  They  were  in  the  heart  of  an 
unknown  wilderness,  untraversed  as  yet  by  a  white 
man.  They  were  at  a  loss  what  route  to  take,  and  how 
far  they  were  from  the  ultimate  place  of  their  destina- 
tion, nor  could  they  meet  in  these  uninhabited  wilds 
with  any  human  being  to  give  them  information.  The 
repeated  accidents  to  their  canoes  had  reduced  their 
stock  of  provisions  to  five  days'  allowance,  and  there 
was  now  every  appearance  of  soon  having  famine 
added  to  their  other  sufferings. 

This  last  circumstance  rendered  it  more  perilous  to 
keep  together  than  to  separate.  Accordingly,  after  a 
little  anxious  but  bewildered  counsel,  it  was  deter- 
mined that  several  small  detachments  should  start  off 
in  different  directions,  headed  by  the  several  partners. 
Should  any  of  them  succeed  in  falling  in  with  friendly 
Indians,  within  a  reasonable  distance,  and  obtaining 
a  supply  of  provisions  and  horses,  they  were  to  return 
to  the  aid  of  the  main  body :  otherwise  they  were  to 
shift  for  themselves,  and  shape  their  course  according 
to  circumstances;  keeping  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
River  as  the  ultimate  point  of  their  wayfaring.     Ac- 


A 


ASTORIA 


263 


ter  a 
eter- 
off 


Hiing 


cordingly  three  several  parties  set  off  from  the  camp 
at  Caldron  Linn,  in  opposite  directions.  Mr.  M'Lellan, 
with  three  men,  kept  down  along  the  hank  of  the  river. 
Mr.  Crooks,  with  five  others,  turned  their  steps  up  it ; 
retracing  by  land  the  weary  course  they  had  made  by 
water,  intending,  should  they  not  find  relief  nearer  at 
hand,  to  keep  on  until  they  should  reach  Henry's  Fort, 
where  they  hoped  to  find  the  horses  they  had  left  there, 
and  to  return  with  them  to  the  main  body. 

The  third  party,  composed  of  five  men,  was  headed 
by  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  struck  to  the  northward,  across 
the  desert  plains,  in  hopes  of  coming  upon  the  main 
stream  of  the  Columbia. 

Having  seen  these  three  adventurous  bands  depart 
upon  their  forlorn  expeditions,  Mr.  Hunt  turned  his 
thoughts  to  provide  for  the  subsistence  of  the  main 
body  left  to  his  charge,  and  to  prepare  for  their  future 
march.  There  remained  with  him  thirty-one  men,  be- 
side the  squaw  and  two  children  of  Pierre  Dorion.  There 
was  no  game  to  be  met  with  in  the  neighborhood ;  but 
beavers  were  occasionally  trapped  about  the  river 
banks,  which  afforded  a  scanty  supply  of  food;  in 
the  meantime  they  comforted  themselves  that  some  one 
or  other  of  the  foraging  detachments  would  be  suc- 
cessful, and  return  with  relief. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  set  to  work  with  all  diligence,  to 
prepare  caches,  in  which  to  deposit  the  baj^^yige  and 
merchandise,  of  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  dis- 
burden themselves,  preparatory  to  their  weary  march 
by  land :  and  here  we  shall  give  a  brief  description  of 
those  contrivances,  so  noted  in  the  wilderness. 

A  cache  is  a  term  common  among  traders  and  hun- 
ters, to  designate  a  hiding-place  for  provisions  and 
effects.  It  is  derived  from  the  French  word  cachcr,  to 
conceal,  and  originated  among  the  early  colonists  of 
Canada  and  Louisiana ;  but  the  secret  depository  which 
it  designates  was  in  use  among  the  aboriginals  long 


'•1 

111 
f'l 


M 


f 


hI 


264 


ASTORIA 


I      .     <-l~&t  I   .w  ^  »"^       .4-* 


before  the  intrusion  of  the  white  men.  It  is,  in  fact, 
the  only  mode  that  migratory  hordes  liave  of  preserv- 
ing their  valuables  from  robbery,  during  their  long 
absences  from  their  villages  or  accustomed  haunts,  on 
hunting  expeditions,  or  during  the  vicissitudes  of  war. 
The  utmost  skill  and  caution  are  required  to  render 
these  places  of  concealment  invisible  to  the  lynx  eye  of 
an  Indian.  The  first  care  is  to  seek  out  a  proper  situa- 
tion, which  is  generally  some  dry,  low,  bank  of  clay, 
on  the  margin  of  a  w^ater-course.  As  soon  as  the  pre- 
cise spot  is  pitched  upon,  blankets,  saddle-cloths,  and 
other  coverings,  are  spread  over  the  surrounding  grass 
and  bushes,  to  prevent  foot-tracks,  or  any  other  de- 
rangement ;  and  as  few  hands  as  possible  are  employed. 
A  circle  of  about  two  feet  in  diameter  is  then  nicely  cut 
in  the  sod,  wdiich  is  carefully  removed,  with  the  loose 
soil  immediately  beneath  it,  and  laid  aside  in  a  place 
where  it  will  be  safe  from  anything  that  may  change 
its  appearance.  The  uncovered  area  is  then  digged 
perpendicularly  to  the  depth  of  about  three  feet,  and 
is  then  gradually  widened  so  as  to  form  a  conical 
chamber  six  or  seven  feet  deep.  The  whole  of  the 
earth  displaced  by  this  process,  being  of  a  different 
color  from  that  on  the  surface,  is  handed  up  in  a 
vessel,  and  heaped  into  a  skin  or  cloth,  in  which  it  is 
conveyed  to  the  stream  and  thrown  into  the  midst  of 
the  current,  that  it  may  be  entirely  carried  off.  Should 
the  cache  not  be  formed  in  the  vicinity  of  a  stream, 
the  earth  thus  thrown  up  is  carried  to  a  distance,  and 
scattered  in  such  manner  as  not  to  leave  the  minutest 
trace.  The  cave  being  formed,  is  well  lined  with  dry 
grass,  bark,  sticks,  and  poles,  and  occasionally  a  dried 
hide.  The  property  intended  to  be  hidden  is  then  laid 
in,  after  having  been  well  aired :  a  hide  is  spread  over 
it,  and  dried  grass,  brush,  and  stones  thrown  in,  and 
trampled  down  until  the  pit  is  filled  to  the  neck.  The 
loose  soil  which  had  been  put  aside  is  then  brought  and 


ASTORIA 


265 


ligged 
t,  and 
onical 
the 
erent 
in  a 
it  is 
St  of 
lould 
ream, 
and 
lutest 
h  dry 
dried 
laid 
over 
and 
The 
t  and 


rammed  down  firmly,  to  prevent  its  caving  in,  and  is 
frequently  sprinkled  with  water,  to  destroy  the  scent, 
lest  the  wolves  and  bears  should  be  attracted  to  the 
place,  and  root  up  the  concealed  treasure.  When  the 
neck  of  tlie  caciie  is  nearly  level  with  the  surrounding 
surface,  the  sod  is  again  fitted  in  with  the  utmost  exact- 
ness, and  any  bushes,  stocks,  or  stones,  that  may  have 
originally  been  about  the  spot,  are  restored  to  their 
former  places.  The  blankets  and  other  coverings  are 
then  removed  from  the  surrounding  herbage;  all 
tracks  are  obliterated ;  the  grass  is  gently  raised  by 
the  hand  to  its  natural  position,  and  the  minutest  chip 
or  straw  is  scrupulously  gleaned  up  and  thrown  into 
the  stream.  After  all  this  is  done,  the  place  is  aban- 
doned for  the  night,  and  if  all  be  right  next  morning, 
is  not  visited  again,  until  there  be  a  necessity  for 
reopening  the  cache.  Four  men  are  sufficient,  in  this 
way,  to  conceal  the  amount  of  three  tons  weight  of 
merchandise  in  the  course  of  two  days.  Nine  caches 
w^ere  required  to  contain  the  goods  and  baggage  which 
Mr.  Hunt  found  it  necessary  to  leave  at  this  place. 

Three  days  had  been  thus  employed  since  the  de- 
parture of  the  several  detachments,  when  that  of  Mr. 
Crooks  unexpectedly  made  its  appearance.  A  mo- 
mentary joy  was  diffused  through  the  camp,  for  they 
supposed  succor  to  be  at  hand.  It  was  soon  dispelled. 
Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions  had  been  completely 
disheartened  by  this  retrograde  march  through  a  bleak 
and  barren  country;  and  had  found,  computing  from 
their  progress  and  the  accumulating  difficulties  beset- 
ting every  step,  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach 
Henry's  Fort,  and  return  to  the  main  body  in  the 
course  of  the  winter.  They  had  determined,  therefore, 
to  rejoin  their  comrades,  and  share  their  lot. 

One  avenue  of  hope  was  thus  closed  upon  the  anx- 
ious sojourners  at  the  Caldron  Linn;  their  main 
expectation  of  relief  was  now  from  the  two  parties 


*    I 


'  1 

|4 

1 
/'  I 

tfl 
t   1 


I!i' 


266 


ASTORIA 


nd'r 


under  Reed  and  M'Lellan,  which  had  proceeded  down 
the  river;  for,  as  to  Mr.  M'Kenzic's  detachment, 
which  had  struck  across  the  phiins,  they  thought  it 
wrmld  have  sufficient  difficulty  in  strugghng  forward 
tlu-ough  the  trackless  wilderness.  For  five  days  they 
continued  to  support  themselves  by  trapping  and  fish- 
ing. Some  fish  of  tolerable  size  were  speared  at  night 
by  the  light  of  cedar  torches ;  others  that  were  very 
small,  were  caught  in  nets  with  fine  meshes.  The 
product  of  their  fishing,  however,  was  very  scanty. 
Their  trapping  was  also  precarious ;  and  the  tails  and 
bellies  of  the  beavers  were  dried  and  put  by  for  the 
journey. 

At  length  two  of  the  companions  of  Mr.  Reed  re- 
turned, and  were  hailed  with  the  most  anxious  eager- 
ness. Their  report  served  but  to  increase  the  general 
despondency.  They  had  followed  Mr,  Reed  for  some 
distance  below  the  point  to  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  ex- 
plored, but  had  met  with  no  Indians  from  whom  to 
obtain  information  and  relief.  The  river  still  pre- 
sented the  same  furious  aspect,  brawling  and  boiling 
along  a  narrow  and  rugged  channel,  between  rocks 
that  rose  like  walls. 

A  lingering  hope,  which  had  been  indulged  by  some 
of  the  party,  of  proceeding  by  water,  was  now  finally 
given  up :  the  long  and  terrific  strait  of  the  river  set 
all  further  progress  at  defiance,  and  in  their  disgust 
at  the  place,  and  their  vexation  at  the  disasters  sus- 
tained there,  they  gave  it  the  indignant,  though  not 
very  decorous,  appellation  of  the  Devil's  Scuttle  Hole. 


»H, 


ASTORIA 


267 


CHAPTER    XXXIV 

The  resolution  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  was 
now  taken  to  set  out  immediately  on  foot.  As  to  the 
other  detachments  that  had  in  a  manner  gone  forth  to 
seek  their  fortunes,  there  was  little  chance  of  their 
return ;  they  would  prohably  make  their  own  way 
through  the  wilderness.  At  any  rate,  to  linger  in  the 
vague  hope  of  relief  from  them,  wcjuld  be  to  run  the 
risk  of  perishing  with  hunger.  Besides,  the  winter 
was  rapidly  advancing,  and  they  had  a  long  journey 
to  make  through  an  unknown  country,  where  all  kinds 
of  perils  might  await  them.  They  were  yet,  in  fact, 
a  thousand  miles  from  Astoria,  but  the  distance  was 
unknown  to  them  at  the  time :  everything  before  and 
around  them  was  vague  and  conjectural,  and  wore  an 
aspect  calculated  to  inspire  despondency. 

In  abandoning  the  river,  they  would  have  to  launch 
forth  upon  vast  trackless  plains  destitute  of  all  means 
of  subsistence,  where  they  might  perish  of  hunger  and 
thirst.  A  dreary  desert  of  sand  and  gravel  extends 
from  Snake  River  almost  to  the  Columbia.  Here  and 
there  is  a  thin  and  scanty  herbage,  insufficient  for  the 
pasturage  of  horse  or  buffalo.  Indeed,  these  treeless 
wastes  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific, 
are  even  more  desolate  and  barren  than  the  naked, 
upper  prairies  on  the  Atlantic  side;  they  present  vast 
desert  tracts  that  must  ever  defy  cultivation,  and  inter- 
pose dreary  and  thirsty  wilds  between  the  habitations 
of  man,  in  traversing  which,  the  wanderer  will  often 
be  in  danger  of  perishing. 

Seeing  the  hopeless  character  of  these  wastes,  Mr. 
Hunt  and  his  companions  determined  to  keep  along 
the  course  of  the  river,  where  they  would  always  have 
vv^ater  at  hand,  and  would  be  able  occasionally  to  pro- 


t 


268 


ASTORIA 


^'^n 


I{;"«: 


'i;i.T' 


IH 


1 ' 

^'11  • 

y 

: 

1 

^^1  . 

cure  fish  and  beaver,  and  might  perchance  meet  with 
Indians,  from  whom  they  could  obtain  provisions. 

They  now  made  their  final  preparations  for  the 
march.  All  their  remaining  stock  of  provisions  con- 
sisted of  forty  pounds  of  Indian  corn,  twenty  pounds 
of  grease,  about  five  pounds  of  portable  soup,  and  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  dried  meat  to  allow  each  man  a 
pittance  of  five  pounds  and  a  quarter,  to  be  reserved 
for  emergencies.  This  being  properly  distributed,  they 
deposited  all  their  goods  and  superfluous  articles  in 
the  caches,  taking  nothing  with  them  but  what  was 
indispensable  to  the  journey.  With  all  their  manage- 
ment, each  man  had  to  carry  twenty  pounds'  weight 
beside  his  own  articles  and  equipments. 

That  they  might  have  the  better  chance  of  procur- 
ing subsistence  in  the  scanty  region  they  were  to 
traverse,  they  divided  their  party  into  two  bands,  Mr. 
Hunt,  with  eighteen  men,  beside  Pierre  Dorion  and 
his  family,  was  to  proceed  down  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  while  Mr.  Crooks,  with  eighteen  men,  kept  along 
the  south  side. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  October,  the  two 
parties  separated  and  set  forth  on  their  several  courses. 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  followed  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  which  made  its  way  far  below  them, 
brawling  at  the  foot  of  perpendicular  precipices  of 
solid  rock,  two  and  three  hundred  feet  high.  For 
twenty-eight  miles  that  they  travelled  this  day,  they 
found  it  impossible  to  get  down  to  the  margin  of  the 
stream.  At  the  end  of  this  distance  they  encamped 
for  the  night  at  a  place  which  admitted  a  scrambling 
descent.  It  was  with  the  greatest  dif^culty,  however, 
that  they  succeeded  in  getting  up  a  kettle  of  water 
from  the  river  for  the  use  of  the  camp.  As  some  rain 
had  fallen  in  the  afternoon,  they  passed  the  night 
under  the  shelter  of  the  rocks. 

The  next  day  they  continued  thirty-two  miles  to  the 


ASTORIA 


269 


right 

them, 

:es   of 

For 

they 

>f  the 
imped 

ibling 
Ivever, 
]  water 
le  rain 

night 

Ito  the 


northwest,  keeping  along  the  river,  Vv'hich  still  ran 
in  its  deep-cut  channel.  Here  and  there  a  shady  beach 
or  a  narrow  strip  of  soil,  fringed  with  dwarf  willows, 
would  extend  for  a  little  distance  along  the  foot  of 
the  cliffs,  and  sometimes  a  reach  of  still  w^ater  would 
intervene  like  a  smooth  mirror  between  the  foaming 
rapids. 

As  through  the  preceding  day.  they  journeyed  on 
without  finding,  except  in  one  instance,  any  place 
where  they  could  get  down  to  the  river's  edge,  and 
they  were  fain  to  allay  the  thirst  caused  by  hard  trav- 
elling, with  the  water  collected  in  the  hollow  of  the 
rocks. 

In  the  course  of  their  march  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, they  fell  into  a  beaten  horse  path  leading  along 
the  river,  which  showed  that  they  were  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  some  Indian  village  or  encampment.  They 
had  not  proceeded  far  along  it,  when  they  met  with 
two  Shoshonies,  or  Snakes.  They  approached  "  wnth 
some  appearance  of  uneasiness,  and  accosting  Mr. 
Hunt,  held  up  a  knife,  which  by  signs  they  let  him 
know  they  had  received  from  some  of  the  white  men 
of  the  advance  parties.  It  was  with  some  difficulty  that 
Mr.  Hunt  prevailed  upon  one  of  the  savages  to  con- 
duct him  to  the  lodges  of  his  people.  Striking  into 
a  trail  or  path  which  led  up  from  the  river,  he  guided 
them  for  some  distance  in  the  prairie,  until  they  came 
in  sight  of  a  number  of  lodges  made  of  straw,  and 
shaped  like  hay  stacks.  Their  approach,  as  on  former 
occasions,  caused  the  wildest  affright  among  the  in- 
habitants. The  women  hid  such  of  their  children  as 
were  too  large  to  be  carried,  and  too  small  to  take  care 
of  themselves,  under  strawy  and,  clasping  their  in- 
fants to  their  breasts,  fled  across  the  prairie.  The  men 
awaited  the  approach  of  the  strangers,  but  evidently 
in  great  alarm. 

Mr.  Hunt  entered  the  lodges,  and,  as  he  was  look- 


■  1 
I 

iii 

ill 
ill 


M 


2/0 


ASTORIA 


r  i  ;j 


lit; 


m\  I*! 


Ml )  *'NI 


ing  about,  observed  where  the  children  were  concealed ; 
their  black  eyes  glistening  like  those  of  snakes,  from 
beneath  the  straw.  He  lifted  up  the  covering  to  look 
at  them;  the  poor  little  beings  were  horribly  fright- 
ened, and  their  fathers  stood  trembling,  as  if  a  beast 
of  prey  were  about  to  pounce  upon  their  brood. 

The  friendly  manner  of  Mr.  Hunt  soon  dispelled 
these  apprehensions ;  he  succeeded  in  purchasing  some 
excellent  dried  salmon,  and  a  dog,  an  animal  much 
esteemed  as  food  by  the  natives ;  and  when  he  returned 
to  the  river  one  of  the  Indians  accompanied  him.  He 
now  came  to  where  the  lodges  were  frequent  along  the 
banks,  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of  twenty-six  miles 
to  the  northwest,  encamped  in  a  populous  neighbor- 
hood. Forty  or  fifty  of  the  natives  soon  visited  the 
camp,  conducting  themselves  in  a  very  amicable  man- 
ner. They  were  well  clad,  and  all  had  buffalo  robes, 
which  they  procured  from  some  of  the  hunting  tribes 
in  exchange  for  salmon.  Their  habitations  were  very 
comfortable;  each  had  its  pile  of  wormwood  at  the 
door  for  fuel,  and  within  was  abundance  of  salmon, 
some  fresh,  but  the  greater  part  cured.  When  the 
white  men  visited  the  lodges,  however,  the  women  and 
children  hid  themselves  through  fear.  Among  the 
supplies  obtained  here  were  two  dogs,  on  which  our 
travellers  breakfasted,  and  found  them  to  be  very 
excellent,  well-flavored,  and  hearty  food. 

In  the  course  of  the  three  following  days  they  made 
about  sixty-three  miles,  generally  in  a  northwest  direc- 
tion. They  met  with  many  of  the  natives  in  their 
straw-built  cabins,  who  received  them  without  alarm. 
About  their  dwellings  were  immense  quantities  of  the 
heads  and  skins  of  salmon,  the  best  part  of  which  had 
been  cured,  and  hidden  in  the  ground.  The  women 
were  badly  clad;  the  children  worse;  their  garments 
were  buffalo  robes,  or  the  skins  of  foxes,  hares,  and 
badgers,  and  sometimes  the  skins  of  ducks,  sewed  to- 


ASTORIA 


271 


very- 
made 
direc- 
their 
arm. 
f  the 

had 
omen 
nents 

and 
d  to- 


gether, with  the  plumage  on.  Most  of  the  skins  must 
have  been  procured  by  traffic  with  other  tribes,  or  in 
distant  hunting  excursions,  for  the  naked  prairies  in 
the  neighborhood  afforded  few  animals,  excepting 
horses,  which  were  abundant.  There  were  signs  of 
buffaloes  having  been  there,  but  a  long  time  before. 

On  the  15th  of  November  they  made  twenty-eight 
miles  along  the  river,  which  was  entirely  free  from 
rapids.  The  shores  were  lined  with  dead  salmon, 
which  tainted  the  whole  atmosphere.  The  natives 
whom  they  met  spoke  of  Mr.  Reed's  party  having 
passed  through  that  neighborhood.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  Mr.  Hunt  saw  a  few  horses,  but  the  owners 
of  them  took  care  to  hurry  them  out  of  the  way.  All 
the  provisions  they  were  able  to  procure,  were  two 
dogs  and  a  salmon.  On  the  following  day  they  were 
still  worse  off,  having  to  subsist  on  parched  corn,  and 
the  remains  of  their  dried  meat.  The. river  this  day 
had  resumed  its  turbulent  character,  forcing  its  way 
through  a  narrow  channel  between  steep  rocks,  and 
down  violent  rapids.  They  made  twenty  miles  over 
a  rugged  road,  gradually  approaching  a  mountain  in 
the  northwest,  covered  with  snow,  which  had  been 
in  sight  for  three  days  past. 

On  the  17th  they  met  with  several  Indians,  one  of 
whom  had  a  horse.  Mr.  Hunt  was  extremely  desirous 
of  obtaining  it  as  a  pack-horse;  for  the  men,  worn 
down  by  fatigue  and  hunger,  found  the  loads  of  twenty 
pounds'  weig  It  which  they  had  to  carry,  daily  growing 
heavier  and  more  galling.  The  Indians,  however, 
along  this  river,  were  never  willing  to  part  with  their 
horses,  having  none  to  spare.  The  owner  of  the  steed 
in  question  seemed  proof  against  all  temptation ;  ar- 
ticle after  article  of  great  value  in  Indian  eyes  was 
offered  and  refused.  The  charms  of  an  old  tin  kettle, 
however,  were  irresistible,  and  a  bargain  was  concluded. 

A  great  part  of  the   following  morning  was  con- 


*l    ♦' 


1H 

'■  1 
tt  1 

r.  ? 


|( 


M 


212 


ASTORIA 


Slimed  in  lightening  the  packages  of  the  men  and  ar- 
ranging the  load  for  the  horse.  At  this  encampment 
there  was  no  wood  for  fuel,  even  the  wormwood  on 
which  they  had  frequently  depended,  having  disap- 
peared. For  the  two  last  days  they  had  made  thirty 
miles  to  the  northwest. 

On  the  19th  of  November,  Mr.  Hunt  was  lucky 
enough  to  purchase  another  horse  for  his  own  use, 
giving  in  exchange  a  tomahawk,  a  knife,  a  fire  steel, 
and  some  beads  and  gartering.  In  an  evil  hour,  how- 
ever, he  took  the  advice  of  the  Indians  to  abandon  the 
river,  and  follow  a  road  or  trail,  leading  into  the 
prairies.  He  soon  had  cause  to  regret  the  change. 
The  road  led  across  a  dreary  waste,  w^ithout  verdure; 
and  where  there  was  neither  fountain,  nor  pool,  nor 
running  stream.  The  men  now  began  to  experience 
the  torments  of  thirst,  aggravated  by  their  usual  diet 
of  dried  fish.  The  thirst  of  the  Canadian  voyageurs 
became  so  insupportable  as  to  drive  them  to  the  most 
revolting  means  of  allaying  it.  For  twenty-five  miles 
did  they  toil  on  across  this  dismal  desert,  and  laid 
themselves  down  at  night,  parched  and  disconsolate, 
beside  their  wormwood  fires;  looking  forward  to  still 
greater  sufferings  on  the  following  day.  Fortunately 
it  began  to  rain  in  the  night,  to  their  infinite  relief; 
the  water  soon  collected  in  puddles  and  afforded  them 
delicious  draughts. 

Refreshed  in  this  manner,  they  resumed  their  way- 
faring as  soon  as  the  first  streaks  of  dawn  gave  light 
enough  for  them  to  see  their  path.  The  rain  continued 
all  day  so  that  they  no  longer  suffered  from  thirst, 
but  hunger  took  its  place,  for,  after  travelling  thirty- 
three  miles  they  had  nothing  to  sup  on  but  a  little 
parched  corn. 

The  next  day  brought  them  to  the  banks  of  a  beauti- 
ful little  stream,  running  to  the  west,  and  fringed 
with  groves  of  cottun-wood  and  willow.     On  its  bor- 


ASTORIA 


^7Z 


way- 
light 
inued 
hirst, 
lirty- 
little 

auti- 

nged 

bor- 


ders was  an  Indian  camp,  with  a  great  many  horses 
grazing  around  it.  The  inhabitants,  too,  appeared  to 
be  better  clad  than  usual.  The  scene  was  altogether 
a  cheering  one  to  the  poor  half-famished  wanderers. 
They  hastened  to  their  lodges,  but  on  arriving  at  them 
met  with  a  check  that  at  first  dampened  their  cheer- 
fulness. An  Indian  immediately  laid  claim  to  the  horse 
of  Mr.  Hunt,  saying  that  it  had  been  stolen  from  him. 
There  was  no  disproving  a  fact  supported  by  numerous 
bystanders,  and  which  the  horse-stealing  habits  of  the 
Indians  rendered  but  too  probable;  so  Mr.  Hunt  re- 
linquished his  steed  to  the  claimant,  not  being  able  to 
retain  him  by  a  second  purchase. 

At  this  place  they  encamped  for  the  night,  and  made 
a  sumptuous  repast  upon  fish  and  a  couple  of  dogs, 
procured  from  their  Indian  neighbors.  The  next  day 
they  kept  along  the  river,  but  came  to  a  halt  after  ten 
miles'  march,  on  account  of  the  rain.  Here  they  again 
got  a  supply  of  fish  and  dogs  from  the  natives;  and 
two  of  the  men  were  fortunate  enough  each  to  get  a 
horse  in  exchange  for  a  buffalo  robe.  One  of  these 
men  w^as  Pierre  Dorion,  the  half-breed  interpreter,  to 
whose  suffering  family  the  horse  was  a  timely  acquisi- 
tion. And  here  we  cannot  but  notice  the  wonderful 
patience,  perseverance,  and  hardihood  of  the  Indian 
women,  as  exemplified  in  the  conduct  of  the  poor 
squaw  of  the  interpreter.  She  was  now  far  advanced 
in  her  pregnancy,  and  had  two  children  to  take  care 
of;  one  four,  and  the  other  two  years  of  age.  The 
latter  of  course  she  had  frequently  to  carry  on  her 
back,  in  addition  to  the  burden  usually  imposed  upon 
the  squaw,  yet  she  had  borne  all  her  hardships  without 
a  murmur,  and  throughout  this  weary  and  painful 
journey  had  kept  pace  with  the  best  of  the  pedestrians. 
Indeed  on  various  occasions  in  the  course  of  this  enter- 
prise, she  displayed  a  force  of  character  that  won  the 
respect  and  applause  of  the  white  men. 

i8 


jh 


274 


ASTORIA 


sin  ; 


Mr.  Hunt  endeavored  to  gather  some  information 
from  these  Indians  concerning  the  coimtry  and  the 
course  of  the  rivers.  His  communications  with  them 
had  to  be  by  signs,  and  a  few  words  which  he  had 
learnt,  and  of  course  were  extremely  vague.  All  that 
he  could  learn  from  them  was,  that  the  great  river, 
the  Columbia,  was  still  far  distant,  but  he  could  ascer- 
tain nothing  as  to  the  route  he  ought  to  take  to  arrive 
at  it.  For  the  two  following  days  they  continued 
westward  upwards  of  forty  miles  along  the  little 
stream,  until  they  crossed  it  just  before  its  junction 
with  Snake  River,  which  they  found  still  running  to 
the  north.  Before  them  was  a  wintry-looking  mountain 
covered  with  snow  on  all  sides. 

In  three  days  more  they  made  about  seventy  miles; 
fording  two  small  rivers,  the  waters  of  which  were 
very  cold.  Provisions  were  extremely  scarce;  their 
chief  sustenance  was  portable  soup ;  a  meagre  diet  for 
weary  pedestrians. 

On  the  27th  of  November  the  river  led  them  into 
the  mountains  through  a  rocky  defile  where  there  was 
scarcely  room  to  pass.  They  were  frequently  obliged 
to  unload  the  horses  to  get  them  by  the  narrow  places ; 
and  sometimes  to  wade  through  the  water  in  getting 
round  rocks  and  butting  cliffs.  All  their  food  this  day 
was  a  beaver  which  they  had  caught  the  night  before ; 
by  evening,  the  cravings  of  hunger  were  so  sharp,  and 
the  prospect  of  any  supply  among  the  mountains  so 
faint,  that  they  had  to  kill  one  of  the  horses.  "  The 
men,"  says  Mr.  Hunt  in  his  journal,  ^'  find  the  meat 
very  good,  and,  indeed,  so  should  I,  were  it  not  for  the 
attachment  I  have  to  the  animal." 

Early  in  the  following  day,  after  proceeding  ten 
miles  to  the  north,  they  came  to  two  lodges  of  Sho- 
shonies,  who  seemed  in  nearly  as  great  an  extremity 
as  themselves,  having  just  killed  two  horses  for  food. 
They  had  no  other  provisions  excepting  the  seed  of  a 


ASTORIA 


275 


nation 

id  the 

1  them 

le  had 

.11  that 

river, 

ascer- 

arrive 

itinued 

;    little 

inction 

ling  to 

)untain 

miles ; 
1  were 
;  their 
iiet  for 

n  into 

re  was 

)bliged 

places ; 

etting 

is  day 

ef ore ; 

:),  and 

ms  so 

^The 

meat 

or  the 

g  ten 
Sho- 
emity 
food, 
of  a 


weed  which  they  gather  in  great  quantities,  and  pound 
fine.  It  resembles  hemp-seed.  Mr.  Hunt  purchased 
a  bag  of  it,  and  also  some  small  pieces  of  horse  flesh, 
which  he  began  to  relish,  pronouncing  them  "  fat  and 
tender." 

From  these  Indians  he  received  information  that 
several  white  men  had  gone  down  the  river,  some  one 
side,  and  a  good  many  on  the  other;  these  last  he 
concluded  to  be  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  party.  He  was 
thus  released  from  much  anxiety  about  their  safety, 
especially  as  the  Indians  spoke  about  Mr.  Crooks  hav- 
ing one  of  his  dogs  yet,  which  showed  that  he  and  his 
men  had  not  been  reduced  to  extremity  of  hunger. 

As  Mr.  Hunt  feared  that  he  might  be  several  days  in 
passing  through  this  mountain  defile,  and  run  the  risk 
of  famine,  he  encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Indians,  for  the  purpose  of  bartering  with  them  for  a 
horse.  The  evening  was  expended  in  ineffectual  trials. 
He  offered  a  gun,  a  buffalo  robe,  and  various  other 
articles.  The  poor  fellows  had,  probably,  like  himself, 
the  fear  of  starvation  before  their  eyes.  At  length 
the  women,  learning  the  object  of  his  pressing  solici- 
tations, and  tempting  offers,  set  up  such  a  terrible 
hue  and  cry,  that  he  was  fairly  howled  and  scolded 
from  the  ground. 

The  next  morning  early,  the  Indians  seemed  very 
desirous  to  get  rid  of  their  visitors,  fearing,  probably, 
for  the  safety  of  their  horses.  In  reply  to  Mr.  Hunt's 
inquiries  about  the  mountains,  they  told  him  that  he 
would  have  to  sleep  but  three  nights  more  among  them  ; 
and  that  six  days'  travelling  would  take  him  to  the 
falls  of  the  Columbia;  information  in  which  he  put 
no  faith,  believing  it  was  only  given  to  induce  him  to 
set  forward.  These,  he  was  told,  were  the  last  Snakes 
he  would  meet  with,  and  that  he  would  soon  come  to 
a  nation  called  Sciatogas. 

Forward  then  did  he  proceed  on  his  tedious  journey, 


1- 1 

M 

li' 


1<. 

'I 


n 


'■ill 

i:| 


i 

iijl 


11 


276 


ASTORIA 


•iifi 


|HI4«)j'"<  '19*1  I 

\:\f  ^^'«■<' 


{ft 

4'  f 


t- 


«  SI 


which,  at  every  step,  grew  more  painful.  The  road 
continued  for  two  days,  through  narrow  defiles,  where 
they  were  repeatedly  obliged  to  unload  the  horses. 
Sometimes  the  river  passed  through  such  rocky  chasms 
and  under  such  steep  precipices  that  they  had  to  leave 
it,  and  make  their  way,  with  excessive  labor,  over  im- 
mense hills,  almost  impassable  for  horses.  On  some  of 
these  hills  were  a  few  pine  trees,  and  their  summits 
were  covered  with  snow.  On  the  second  day  of  this 
scramble  one  of  the  hunters  killed  a  black-tailed  deer, 
which  afforded  the  half-starved  travellers  a  sumptuous 
repast.  Their  progress  these  two  days  was  twenty- 
eight  miles,  a  little  to  the  northward  of  east. 

The  month  of  December  set  in  drearily,  with  rain  in 
the  valleys,  and  snow  upon  the  hills.  They  had  to  climb 
a  mountain  with  snow  to  the  midleg,  which  increased 
their  painful  toil.  A  small  beaver  supplied  them  with 
a  scanty  meal,  which  they  eked  out  with  frozen  black- 
berries, haws,  and  choke-cherries,  which  they  found 
in  the  course  of  their  scramble.  Their  journey  this 
day,  though  excessively  fatiguing,  was  but  thirteen 
miles;  and  all  the  next  day  they  had  to  remain  en- 
camped, not  being  able  to  see  half  a  mile  ahead,  on  ac- 
count of  a  snow-storm.  Having  nothing  else  to  eat, 
they  were  compelled  to  kill  another  of  their  horses. 
The  next  day  they  resumed  their  march  in  snow  and 
rain,  but  with  all  their  efforts  could  only  get  forward 
nine  miles,  having  for  a  part  of  the  distance  to  un- 
load the  horses  and  carry  the  packs  themselves.  On 
the  succeeding  morning  they  were  obliged  to  leave  the 
river,  and  scramble  up  the  hills.  From  the  summit 
of  these,  they  got  a  wide  view  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  it  was  a  prospect  almost  sufficient  to 
make  them  despair.  In  every  direction  they  beheld 
snowy  mountains,  partially  sprinkled  with  pines  and 
other  evergreens,  and  spreading  a  desert  and  toilsome 
world  around  them.    The  wind  howled  over  the  bleak 


7 


ASTORIA 


277 


^ 


and  wintry  landscape,  and  seemed  to  penetrate  to  the 
marrow  of  their  bones.  They  waded  on  through  the 
snow,  which  at  every  step  was  more  tlian  knee  deep. 

After  toihng  in  this  way  all  day,  they  had  the  morti- 
fication to  find  that  they  were  but  four  miles  distant 
from  the  encampment  of  the  preceding  niglit,  such  was 
the  meandering  of  the  river  among  these  dismal  hills. 
Pinched  with  famine,  exhausted  with  fatigue,  with 
evening  approaching,  and  a  wintry  wild  still  lengthen- 
ing as  they  advanced ;  they  began  to  look  forward 
with  sad  forebodings  to  the  night's  exposure  upon  this 
frightful  waste.  Fortunately  they  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing a  cluster  of  pines  about  sunset.  Their  axes  were 
immediately  at  work ;  they  cut  down  trees,  piled  them 
in  great  heaps,  and  soon  had  huge  fires  "  to  cheer  their 
cold  and  hungry  hearts." 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  it  again  began 
to  snow,  and  at  daybreak  they  found  themselves,  as 
it  were,  in  a  cloud ;  scarcely  being  able  to  distinguish 
objects  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  yards.  Guiding 
themselves  by  the  sound  of  running  water,  they  set  out 
for  the  river,  and  by  slipping  and  sliding  contrived  to 
get  down  to  its  bank.  One  of  the  horses,  missing  his 
footing,  rolled  down  several  hundred  yards  with  his  load, 
but  sustained  no  injury.  The  weather  in  the  valley  was 
less  rigorous  than  on  the  hills.  The  snow  lay  but  ankle 
deep,  and  there  was  a  quiet  rain  now  falling.  After 
creeping  along  for  six  miles,  they  encamped  on  the 
border  of  the  river.  Being  utterly  destitute  of  pro- 
visions, they  were  again  compelled  to  kill  one  of  their 
horses  to  appease  their  famishing  hunger. 


'•1 

■"  1 
;«'  1 


I! 


t  . 


278 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  XXXV 


j{ 

III 

!' '' 

!'■ 

■*i; 

'  i 
t 

".■'■ 

,r 

w  ■ 

The  wanderers  had  now  accomplished  four  hundred 
and  seventy-two  miles  of  their  dreary  journey  since 
leaving  the  Caldron  Linn,  how  much  further  they  had 
yet  to  travel,  and  what  hardships  to  encounter,  no  one 
knew. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  December,  they  left 
their  dismal  encampment,  but  had  scarcely  begun  their 
march,  when,  to  their  surprise,  they  beheld  a  party  of 
white  men  coming  up  along  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river.  As  they  drew  nearer,  tNey  were  recognized  for 
Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions.  When  they  came  op- 
posite, and  could  make  themselves  heard  across  the 
murmuring  of  the  river,  their  first  cry  was  for  food; 
in  fact,  they  were  almost  starved.  Mr.  Hunt  immedi- 
ately returned  to  the  camp,  and  had  a  kind  of  canoe 
made  out  of  the  skin  of  the  horse,  killed  on  the  pre- 
ceding night.  This  was  done  after  the  Indian  fashion, 
by  drawing  up  the  edges  of  the  skin  with  thongs,  and 
keeping  them  distended  by  sticks  or  thwart  pieces.  In 
this  frail  bark,  Sardepie,  one  of  the  Canadians,  car- 
ried over  a  portion  of  the  flesh  of  the  horse  to  the 
famishing  party  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and 
brought  back  with  him  Mr.  Crooks,  and  the  Canadian, 
Le  Clerc.  The  forlorn  and  wasted  looks,  and  starving 
condition  of  these  two  men,  struck  dismay  to  the  hearts 
of  Mr.  Hunt's  followers.  They  had  been  accustomed 
to  each  other's  appearance,  and  to  the  gradual  opera- 
tion of  hunger  and  hardship  upon  their  frames,  but 
the  change  in  the  looks  of  these  men,  since  last  they 
parted,  was  a  type  of  the  famine  and  desolation  of  the 
land ;  and  they  now  began  to  indulge  the  horrible 
presentiment  that  they  would  all  starve  together,  or  be 
reduced  to  the  direful  alternative  of  casting:  lots! 


ASTORIA 


279 


/ 


When  Mr.  Crooks  had  appeased  his  hunger,  he  gave 
Mr.  Hunt  some  account  of  his  wayfaring.  On  tlie 
side  of  the  river,  along  which  he  had  kept,  he  had  met 
with  but  few  Indians,  and  those  were  too  miserably 
poor  to  yield  much  assistance.  For  the  first  eighteen 
days  after  leaving  the  Caldron  Linn,  he  and  his  men 
had  been  confined  to  half  a  meal  in  twenty-four  hours ; 
for  three  days  following,  they  had  subsisted  on  a  single 
beaver,  a  few  wild  cherries,  and  the  soles  of  old  moc- 
casins ;  and  for  the  last  six  days,  their  only  animal 
food  had  been  the  carcass  of  a  dog.  They  had  been 
three  days'  journey  further  down  the  river  than  Mr. 
Plunt,  always  keeping  as  near  to  its  banks  as  possible, 
and  frequently  climl)ing  over  sharp  and  rocky  ridges 
that  projected  into  the  stream.  At  length  they  had  ar- 
rived to  where  the  mountains  increased  in  height,  and 
came  closer  to  the  river,  with  perpendicular  precipices, 
which  rendered  it  impossible  to  keep  along  the  stream. 
The  river  here  rushed  with  incredible  velocity  through 
a  defile  not  more  than  thirty  yards  wide,  where  cas- 
cades and  rapids  succeeded  each  other  almost  without 
intermission.  Even  had  the  opposite  banks,  therefore, 
been  such  as  to  permit  a  continuance  of  their  journey, 
it  would  have  been  madness  to  attempt  to  pass  the  tu- 
multuous current,  either  on  rafts  or  otherwise.  Still 
bent,  however,  on  pushing  forw^ard,  they  attempted  to 
climb  the  opposing  mountains ;  and  struggled  on 
through  the  snow  for  half  a  day  until,  coming  to  where 
they  could  command  a  prospect,  they  found  that  they 
were  not  half  way  to  the  summit,  and  that  mountain 
upon  mountain  lay  piled  beyond  them,  in  wintry  deso- 
lation. Famished  and  emaciated  as  they  were,  to  con- 
tinue forward  would  be  to  perish;  their  only  chance 
seemed  to  be  to  regain  the  river,  and  retrace  their  steps 
up  its  banks.  It  was  in  this  forlorn  and  retrograde 
march  that  they  had  met  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 

Mr.  Crooks  also  gave  information  of  some  others 


it 


'ii 


28o 


ASTORIA 


I. 


,;i|   :, 


111  5  -  *f»J 
1         I®" 


of  their  fellow  adventurers.  He  had  spoken  several 
days  previously  with  Mr.  Reed  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie, 
who  with  their  men  were  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  where  it  was  impossible  to  get  over  to  them. 
They  informed  him  that  Mr.  M'Lellan  had  struck 
across  from  the  little  river  above  the  mountains,  in 
the  hope  of  falling  in  with  some  of  the  tribe  of  IHat- 
heads,  who  inhabit  the  western  skirts  of  the  Rocky 
range.  As  the  companions  of  Reed  and  M'Kenzie 
were  picked  men,  and  had  found  provisions  more 
abundant  on  their  side  of  the  river,  they  were  in  better 
condition,  and  more  fitted  to  contend  with  the  dif- 
ficulties of  the  country,  than  those  of  Mr.  Crooks,  and 
when  he  lost  sight  of  them,  were  pushing  onward, 
down  the  course  of  the  river. 

Mr.  Hunt  took  a  night  to  revolve  over  his  critical 
situation,  and  to  determine  what  was  to  be  done.  No 
time  was  to  be  lost;  he  had  twenty  men  and  more,  in 
his  own  party,  to  provide  for,  and  Mr.  Crooks  and  his 
men  to  relieve.  To  linger  would  be  to  starve.  The 
idea  of  retracing  his  steps  was  intolerable,  and,  not- 
withstanding all  the  discouraging  accounts  of  the  rug- 
gedness  of  the  mountains  lower  down  the  river,  he 
would  have  been  disposed  to  attempt  them,  but  the 
depth  of  the  snow  with  which  they  were  covertd 
deterred  him ;  having  already  experienced  the  ini- 
possibility  of  forcing  his  way  against  such  an 
impediment. 

The  only  alternative,  therefore,  appeared  to  be,  to 
return  and  seek  the  Indian  bands  scattered  along  the 
small  rivers  above  the  mountains.  Perhaps,  from  some 
of  these  he  might  procure  horses  enough  to  support 
him  until  he  could  reach  the  Columbia;  for  he  still 
cherished  the  hope  of  arriving  at  that  river  in  the 
course  of  the  winter,  though  he  was  apprehensive  that 
few  of  Mr.  Crooks'  party  would  be  sufficiently  strong 
to  follow  him.    Even  in  adopting  this  course,  he  had  to 


ritical 

.     No 

ire,  in 

1(1  his 

The 

not- 

rug- 

,  he 

the 

i^ertd 

iiii- 

an 

.  to 

the 

>ome 

•port 

still 

the 

that 

-ong 


ASTORIA 


281 


make  up  his  mind  to  the  certainty  of  several  days  of 
famine  at  tiie  outset,  for  it  would  take  that  time  to 
reach  the  last  Indian  lodges  from  which  he  had  parted, 
and  until  they  should  arrive  there,  his  people  would 
have  nothing  to  subsist  upon  l>ut  haws  and  wild  berries, 
excepting  one  miserable  burse,  which  was  little  better 
than  skin  and  hovt€. 

After  a  night  of  sleepless  cogitation,  Mr.  Hunt  an- 
nounced to  his  men  the  dreary  alternative  he  had 
adopted,  and  preparations  were  made  to  take  Mr. 
Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  across  the  river,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  meat,  as  the  other  party  were  to  keep 
up  along  the  opposite  bank.  The  skin  canoe  had  un- 
fortunately been  lost  in  the  night;  a  raft  was  con- 
structed therefore,  after  the  manner  of  the  natives,  of 
bundles  of  willows,  but  it  could  not  be  floated  across 
the  impetuous  current.  The  men  were  directed,  in 
consequence,  to  keep  on  along  the  river  by  themselves, 
while  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  would  proceed  with 
Mr.  Hunt.  They  all,  then,  took  up  their  retrograde 
march  with  drooping  spirits. 

In  a  little  while,  it  was  found  that  Mr.  Crooks  and 
Le  Clerc  were  so  feeble  as  to  walk  with  difficulty,  so 
that  Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  to  retard  his  pace,  that 
they  might  keep  up  with  him.  His  men  grew  impatient 
at  the  delay.  They  murmured  that  they  had  a  long 
and  desolate  region  to  traverse,  before  they  could  ar- 
rive at  the  point  where  they  might  expect  to  find 
horses;  that  it  was  impossible  for  Crooks  and  Le 
Clerc,  in  their  feeble  condition,  to  get  over  it ;  that  to 
remain  with  them  would  only  be  to  starve  in  their 
company.  They  importuned  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  to 
leave  these  unfortunate  men  to  their  fate,  and  think 
only  of  the  safety  of  himself  and  his  party.  Finding 
him  not  to  be  moved  either  by  entreaties  or  their 
clamors,  they  began  to  proceed  without  him,  singly 
and  in  parties.     Among  those  who  thus  went  off  was 


it 

( 
I 


I' I 


^1 


It 


it\n 


% 


I'll  T^« 


282 


ASTORIA 


Pierre  Dorion,  the  interpreter.  Pierre  owned  the  only 
remaining  horse,  which  was  now  a  mere  skeleton. 
Mr.  Hunt  had  suggested,  in  their  present  extremity, 
that  it  should  be  killed  for  food;  to  which  the  half- 
breed  flatly  refused  his  assent,  an  '  cudgelling  the  miser- 
able animal  forward,  pushed  on  sullenly,  with  the  air  of 
a  man  doggedly  determined  to  quarrel  for  his  right. 
In  this  way  Mr.  Hunt  saw  his  men,  one  after  another, 
break  away,  until  but  five  remained  to  bear  him 
company. 

On  the  following  morning,  another  raft  was  made, 
on  which  Mr.  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  again  attempted 
to  ferry  themselves  across  the  river,  but  after  re- 
peated trials  had  to  give  up  in  despair.  This  caused 
additional  delay;  after  which  they  continued  to  crawl 
forward  at  a  snail's  pace.  Some  of  the  men  who  had 
remained  with  Mr.  Hunt  now  became  impatient  of 
these  incumbrances,  and  urged  him  clamorously  to 
push  forward,  crying  out  that  they  should  all  starve. 
The  night  which  succeeded  was  intensely  cold,  so  that 
one  of  the  men  was  severely  frost-bitten.  In  the  course 
of  the  night,  Mr.  Crooks  was  taken  ill,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing was  still  more  incompetent  to  travel.  Their  situa- 
tion was  now  desperate,  for  their  stock  of  provisions 
was  reduced  to  three  beaver  skins.  Mr.  Hunt,  there- 
fore, resolved  to  push  on,  overtake  his  people,  and  in- 
sist upon  having  the  horse  of  Pierre  Dorion  sacrificed 
for  the  relief  of  all  hands.  Accordingly,  he  left  two 
of  his  men  to  help  Crooks  and  Le  Clerc  on  their  way, 
giving  them  two  of  the  beaver  skins  for  their  support ; 
the  remaining  skin  he  retained,  as  provision  for  him- 
self and  the  three  other  men  who  struck  forward  with 
him. 


1 


ASTORIA 


283 


CHAPTER   XXXVI 

All  that  day,  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  three  comrades 
travelled  without  eating.  At  night  they  made  a  tanta- 
lizing supper  on  their  beaver  skin,  and  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted by  hunger  and  cold.  The  next  day,  December 
loth,  they  overtook  the  advance  party,  who  were  all 
as  much  famished  as  themselves,  some  of  them  not 
having  eaten  since  the  morning  of  the  seventh.  Mr. 
Hunt  now  proposed  the  sacrifice  of  Pierre  Dorion's 
skeleton  horse.  Here  he  again  met  with  positive  and 
vehement  opposition  from  the  half-breed,  who  was 
too  sullen  and  vindictive  a  fellow  to  be  easily  dealt 
with.  What  was  singular,  the  men,  though  suffering 
such  pinching  hunger,  interfered  in  favor  of  the 
horse.  They  represented,  that  it  was  better  to  keep 
on  as  long  as  possible  without  resorting  to  this  last 
resource.  Possibly  the  Indians,  of  whom  they  were 
in  quest,  might  have  shifted  their  encampment,  in 
which  case  it  would  be  time  enough  to  kill  the  horse 
to  escape  starvation.  Mr.  Hunt,  therefore,  was  pre- 
vailed upon  to  grant  Pierre  Dorion's  horse  a  reprieve. 

Fortunately,  they  had  not  proceeded  much  further, 
when,  towards  evening,  they  came  in  sight  of  a  lodge 
of  Shoshonies,  with  a  number  of  horses  grazing  around 
it.  The  sight  was  as  unexpected  as  it  was  joyous. 
Having  seen  no  Indians  in  this  neighborhood  as  they 
passed  down  the  river,  they  must  have  subsequently 
come  out  from  among  the  mountains.  Mr.  Hunt,  who 
first  descried  them,  checked  the  eagerness  of  his  com- 
panions, knowing  the  unwillingness  of  these  Indians 
to  part  with  their  horses,  and  their  aptness  to  hurry 
them  off  and  conceal  them,  in  case  of  an  alarm.  This 
was  no  time  to  risk  such  a  disappointment.  Approach- 
ing, therefore,  stealthily  and  silently,  they  came  upon 


i 

1 


284 


ASTORIA 


n 


the  savages  by  surprise,  who  fled  in  terror.  Five  of 
their  horses  were  eagerly  seized,  and  one  was  dis- 
patched upon  the  spot.  The  carcass  was  immediately 
cut  up,  and  a  part  of  it  hastily  cooked  and  ravenously 
devoured.  A  man  was  now  sent  on  horseback  with  a 
supply  of  the  flesh  to  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions. 
He  reached  them  in  the  night;  they  were  so  famished 
that  the  supply  sent  them  seemed  but  to  aggravate 
their  hunger,  and  they  were  almost  tempted  to  kill  and 
eat  the  horse  that  had  brought  the  messenger.  Avail- 
ing themselves  of  the  assistance  of  the  animal,  they 
reached  the  camp  early  in  the  morning. 

On  arriving  there,  Mr.  Crooks  was  shocked  to  find 
that,  while  the  people  on  this  side  of  the  river  w^ere 
amply  supplied  with  provisions,  none  had  been  sent 
to  his  own  forlorn  and  famishing  men  on  the  op- 
posite bank.  He  immediately  caused  a  skin  canoe  to 
be  constructed,  and  called  out  to  his  men  to  fill  their 
camp-kettles  with  water  and  hang  them  over  the  fire, 
that  no  time  might  be  lost  in  cooking  the  meat  the 
moment  it  should  be  received.  The  river  was  so  nar- 
row, though  deep,  that  everything  could  be  distinctly 
heard  and  seen  across  it.  The  kettles  were  placed  on 
the  fire,  and  the  water  was  boiling  by  the  time  the 
canoe  was  completed.  When  all  was  ready,  however, 
no  one  would  undertake  to  ferry  the  meat  across.  A 
vague  and  almost  superstitious  terror  had  infected  the 
minds  of  Mr.  Hunt's  followers,  enfeebled  and  ren- 
dered imaginative  of  horrors  by  the  dismal  scenes  and 
sufferings  through  which  they  had  passed.  They  re- 
garded the  haggard  crew,  hovering  like  spectres  of 
famine  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  indefinite  feelings 
of  awe  and  apprehension:  as  if  something  desperate 
and  dangerous  was  to  be  feared  from  them. 

Mr.  Crooks  tried  in  vain  to  reason  or  shame  them 
out  of  this  singular  state  of  mind.  He  then  attempted 
to  navigate  the  canoe  himself,  but  found  his  strength 


ASTORIA 


ive  of 

.s  dis- 

diately 

nously 

with  a 

mions. 

iiished 

;ravate 

:ill  and 

Avail- 

1,  they 

to  find 
r  were 
m  sent 
;he  op- 
moe  to 
11  their 
he  fire, 
;at  the 
o  nar- 
itinctly 
ced  on 
me  the 
wever, 
ss.    A 
ed  the 
d  ren- 
es  and 
|iey  re- 
res  of 
[eehngs 
perate 

them 
nnpted 
Irength 


285 


incompetent  to  brave  the  impetuous  current.  The  good 
feehngs  of  Ben  Jones,  the  Kentuckian,  at  length  over- 
came his  fears,  and  he  ventured  over.  The  supply 
he  brought  was  received  wdth  trembling  avidity.  A 
poor  Canadian,  however,  named  Jean  Baptiste  Prevost, 
whom  famine  had  rendered  wild  and  desperate,  ran 
frantically  about  the  bank,  after  Jones  had  returned, 
crying  out  to  Mr.  Hunt  to  send  the  canoe  for  him,  and 
take  him  from  that  horrible  region  of  famine,  declar- 
ing that  otherwise  he  would  never  march  another  step, 
but  would  lie  down  there  and  die. 

The  canoe  was  shortly  sent  over  again,  under  the 
management  of  Joseph  Delaunay,  with  further  supplies. 
Prevost  immediately  pressed  forward  to  embark.  De- 
launay refused  to  admit  him,  telling  him  that  there 
was  now  a  sufficient  supply  of  meat  on  his  side  of  the 
river.  He  replied  that  it  was  not  cooked,  and  he 
should  starve  before  it  was  ready ;  he  implored,  there- 
fore, to  be  taken  where  he  could  get  something  to  ap- 
pease his  hunger  immediately.  Finding  the  canoe  put- 
ting off  without  him,  he  forced  himself  aboard.  As 
he  drew  near  the  opposite  shore,  and  beheld  meat 
roasting  before  the  fire,  he  jumped  up,  shouted,  clapped 
his  hands,  and  danced  in  a  delirium  of  joy,  until  he  up- 
set the  canoe.  The  poor  wretch  was  swept  away  by 
the  current  and  drowned,  and  it  was  with  extreme- 
difficulty  that  Delaunay  reached  the  shore. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  sent  all  his  men  forward  excepting 
two  or  three.  In  the  evening  he  caused  another  horse 
to  be  killed,  and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  the  skin, 
in  which  he  sent  over  a  further  supply  of  meat  to  the 
opposite  party.  The  canoe  brought  back  John  Day, 
the  Kentucky  hunter,  who  came  to  join  his  former  em- 
ployer and  commander,  Mr.  Crooks.  Poor  Day,  once 
so  active  and  vigorous,  was  now  reduced  to  a  condi- 
tion even  more  feeble  and  emaciated  than  his  com- 
panions.    Mr.  Crooks  had  such  a  value  for  the  man, 


it 


n 


liv 


286 


ASTORIA 


'■I  • 

I'fi '  ; 


.(■i(ii  , 


■Mmn 


fiv; 


on  account  of  his  past  services  and  faithful  character, 
that  he  determined  not  to  quit  him;  he  exhorted  Mr. 
Hunt,  however,  to  proceed  forward,  and  join  the  party, 
as  his  presence  was  all  important  to  the  conduct  of  the 
expedition.  One  of  the  Canadians,  Jean  Baptiste  Du- 
breuil,  likewise  remained  with  Mr.  Crooks. 

Mr.  Hunt  left  two  horses  with  them,  and  a  part 
of  the  carcass  of  the  last  that  had  been  killed.  This, 
he  hoped,  would  be  sufficient  to  sustain  them  until 
they  should  reach  the  Indian  encampment. 

One  of  the  chief  dangers  attending  the  enfeebled 
condition  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  companions,  was 
their  being  overtaken  by  the  Indians  whose  horses 
had  been  seized :  though  Mr.  Hunt  hoped  that  he  had 
guarded  against  any  resentment  on  the  part  of  the 
savages,  by  leaving  various  articles  in  their  lodge, 
more  than  sufficient  to  compensate  for  the  outrage 
he  had  been  compelled  to  commit. 

Resuming  his  onward  course,  Mr.  Hunt  came  up 
with  his  people  in  the  evening.  The  next  day,  Decem- 
ber 13th,  he  beheld  several  Indians,  with  three  horses, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  after  a  time 
came  to  the  two  lodges  which  he  had  seen  on  going 
down.  Here  he  endeavored  in  vain  to  barter  a  rifle 
for  a  horse,  but  again  succeeded  in  effecting  the  pur- 
chase with  an  old  tin  kettle,  aided  by  a  few  beads. 

The  two  succeeding  days  were  cold  and  stormy; 
the  snow  was  augmenting,  and  there  was  a  good  deal 
of  ice  running  in  the  river.  Their  road,  however,  was 
becoming  easier;  they  were  getting  out  of  the  hills, 
and  finally  emerged  into  the  open  country,  after  twenty 
days  of  fatigue,  famine,  and  hardship  of  every  kind, 
in  the  ineffectual  attempt  to  find  a  passage  down  the 
river. 

They  now  encamped  on  a  little  willowed  stream, 
running  from  the  east,  which  they  had  crossed  on  the 
26th  of  November.    Here  they  found  a  dozen  lodges 


a  part 

This, 

I  until 


tream, 
)n  the 
lodges 


ASTORIA 


287 


of  Shoshonies,  recently  arrived,  who  informed  them 
that  had  they  persevered  along  the  river,  they  would 
have  found  their  difficulties  augment  until  they  be- 
came absolutely  insurmountable.  This  intelligence 
added  to  the  anxiety  of  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  fate  of  Mr. 
M'Kenzie  and  his  people,  who  had  kept  on. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  followed  up  the  little  river,  and  en- 
camped at  some  lodges  of  Shoshonies,  from  whom  he 
procured  a  couple  of  horses,  a  dog,  a  few  dried  fish,  and 
some  roots  and  dried  cherries.  Two  or  three  days  were 
exhausted  in  obtaining  information  about  the  route, 
and  what  time  it  would  take  to  get  to  the  Sciatogas, 
a  hospitable  tribe,  on  the  west  of  the  mountains,  rep- 
resented as  having  many  horses.  The  replies  were 
various,  but  concurred  in  saying  that  the  distance  was 
great,  and  would  occupy  from  seventeen  to  twenty- 
one  nights.  Mr.  Hunt  then  tried  to  procure  a  guide; 
but  though  he  sent  to  various  lodges  up  and  down  the 
river,  offering  articles  of  great  value  in  Indian  estima- 
tion, no  one  would  venture.  The  snow,  they  said,  was 
waist  deep  in  the  mountains ;  and  to  all  his  offers  they 
shook  their  heads,  gave  a  shiver,  and  replied,  "  we 
shall  freeze !  we  shall  freeze !  "  at  the  same  time  they 
urged  him  to  remain  and  pass  the  winter  among  them. 

Mr.  Hunt  was  in  a  dismal  dilemma.  To  attempt 
the  mountains  without  a  guide,  would  be  certain  death 
to  him  and  all  his  people ;  to  remain  there,  after  hav- 
ing already  been  so  long  on  the  journey,  and  at  such 
great  expense,  was  worse  to  him,  he  said,  than  two 
"  deaths."  He  now  changed  his  tone  with  the  Indians, 
charged  them  with  deceiving  him  in  respect  to  the 
mountains-,  and  talking  with  a  "  forked  tongue,"  or, 
in  other  words,  with  lying.  He  upbraided  them  with 
their  want  of  courage,  and  told  them  they  were  women, 
to  shrink  from  the  perils  of  such  a  journey.  At  length 
one  of  them,  piqued  by  his  taunts,  or  tempted  by  his 
offers,  agreed  to  be  his  guide ;  for  which  he  was  to  re- 


m 


1 
1 


'I 


288 


ASTORIA 


II  ^«  I 

,  »  t  in 
L      ?  / 


ceive  a  gun,  a  pistol,  three  knives,  two  horses,  and  a 
little  of  every  article  in  possession  of  the  party;  a 
reward  sufficient  to  make  him  one  of  the  wealthiest  of 
his  vagabond  nation. 

Once  more,  then,  on  the  2ist  of  December,  they  set 
out  upon  their  wayfaring,  with  newly  excited  spirits. 
Two  other  Indians  accompanied  their  guide,  who  led 
them  immediately  back  to  Snake  River,  which  they 
followed  down  for  a  short  distance,  in  search  of  some 
Indian  rafts  made  of  reeds,  on  which  they  might  cross. 
Finding  none,  Mr.  Hunt  caused  a  horse  to  be  killed, 
and  a  canoe  to  be  made  out  of  its  skin.  Here,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  they  saw  the  thirteen  men  of  Mr. 
Crooks'  party,  who  had  continued  up  along  the  river. 
They  told  Mr.  Hunt,  across  the  stream,  that  they 
had  not  seen  Mr.  Crooks,  and  the  two  men  who  had 
remained  with  him,  since  the  day  that  he  had  sepa- 
rated from  them. 

The  canoe  proving  too  small,  another  horse  was 
killed,  and  the  skin  of  it  joined  to  that  of  the  first. 
Night  came  on  before  the  little  bark  had  made  more 
than  two  voyages.  Being  badly  made  it  was  taken 
apart  and  put  together  again,  by  the  light  of  the  fire. 
The  night  was  cold;  the  men  were  weary  and  dis- 
heartened with  such  varied  and  incessant  toil  and 
hardship.  They  crouched,  dull  and  drooping,  around 
their  fires ;  many  of  them  began  to  express  a  wish  to 
remain  where  they  were  for  the  winter.  The  very 
necessity  cf  crossing  the  river  dismayed  some  of  them 
in  their  present  enfeebled  and  dejected  state.  It  was 
rapid  and  turbulent,  and  filled  wath  floating  ice,  and 
they  remembered  that  two  of  their  comrades  had  al- 
ready perished  in  its  waters.  Others  looked  forward 
with  misgivings  to  the  long  and  dismal  journey 
through  lonesome  regions  that  awaited  them,  when 
they  should  have  passed  this  dreary  flood. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  morning,  December  ^yl, 


ASTORIA 


289 


very 

them 

It  was 

and 

id  al- 

-ward 

jurney 

I  when 


>'. 


y^> 


they  began  to  cross  the  river.  Much  ice  had  formed 
during  the  night,  and  they  were  obhged  to  break  it 
for  some  distance  on  each  shore.  At  length  they  all 
got  over  in  safety  to  the  west  side;  and  their  spirits 
rose  on  having  achieved  this  perilous  passage.  Here 
they  were  rejoined  by  the  people  of  Mr.  Crooks,  who 
had  with  them  a  horse  and  a  dog,  which  they  had  re- 
cently procured.  The  poor  fellows  were  in  the  most 
squalid  and  emaciated  state.  Three  of  them  were  so 
completely  prostrated  in  strength  and  spirits,  that  they 
expressed  a  wish  to  remain  among  the  Snakes.  Mr. 
Hunt,  therefore,  gave  them  the  canoe,  that  they  might 
cross  the  river,  and  a  few  articles,  with  which  to  pro- 
cure necessaries,  until  they  should  meet  with  Mr. 
Crooks.  There  was  another  man,  named  Michael 
Carriere,  who  was  almost  equally  reduced,  but  he 
determined  to  proceed  with  his  comrades,  who  were 
now  incorporated  with  the  party  of  Mr.  Hunt.  After 
the  day's  exertions  they  encamped  together  on  the 
banks  of  the  river.  This  was  the  last  night  they  were 
to  spend  upon  its  borders.  More  than  eight  hundred 
miles  of  hard  travelling,  and  many  weary  days,  had  it 
cost  them;  and  the  sufferings  connected  with  it  ren- 
dered it  hateful  in  their  remembrance,  so  that  the 
Canadian  voyageurs  always  spoke  of  it  as  "  La  maudite 
riviere  enragee  "  —  the  accursed  mad  river  —  thus 
coupling  a  malediction  with  its  name. 


CHAPTER    XXXVII 

On  the  24th  of  December,  all  things  being  arranged, 
Mr.  Hunt  turned  his  back  upon  the  disastrous  banks 
of  Snake  River,  and  struck  his  course  westward  for 
the  mountains.  His  party  being  augmented  by  the  late 
followers  of  Mr.  Crooks,  amounted  now  to  thirty-two 
white   men,   three   Indians,   and  the   squaw   and   two 

19 


m 


Bi^'n^ 


290 


ASTORIA 


VJ 


.'!;!!  .» 


■■!'!'■'  .' 

"   ■    i 


'■   I 

,       t 


I',!,) 


■' 

.-■'.'■'■ 

11. 

children  of  Pierre  Dorion.  Five  jaded,  half-starved 
horses  were  laden  with  their  luggage,  and,  in  case  of 
need,  were  to  furnish  them  with  provisions.  They 
travelled  painfully  about  fourteen  miles  a  day,  over 
plains  and  among  hills,  rendered  dreary  by  occasional 
falls  of  snow  and  rain.  Their  only  sustenance  was 
a  scanty  meal  of  horse  flesh  once  in  four-and-twenty 
hours. 

On  the  third  day  the  poor  Canadian,  Carriere,  one 
of  the  famished  party  of  Mr.  Crooks,  gave  up  in  de- 
spair, and  lying  down  upon  the  ground  declared  he 
could  go  no  further.  Efforts  were  made  to  cheer  him 
up,  but  it  was  found  that  the  poor  fellow  was  absolutely 
exhausted  and  could  not  keep  on  his  legs.  He  was 
mounted,  therefore,  upon  one  of  the  horses,  though 
the  forlorn  animal  was  in  little  better  plight  than 
himself. 

On  the  28th,  they  came  upon  a  small  stream  winding 
to  the  north,  through  a  fine  level  valley;  the  moun- 
tains receding  on  each  side.  Here  their  Indian  friends 
pointed  out  a  chain  of  woody  mountains  to  the  left, 
running  north  and  south,  and  covered  with  snow ;  over 
which  they  would  have  to  pass.  They  kept  along  the 
valley  for  twenty-one  miles  on  the  29th,  suffering  much 
from  a  continued  fall  of  snow  and  rain,  and  being  twice 
obliged  to  ford  the  icy  stream.  Early  in  the  following 
morning  the  squaw  of  Pierre  Dorion,  who  had  hitherto 
kept  on  without  murmuring  or  flinching,  was  suddenly 
taken  in  labor,  and  enriched  her  husband  with  another 
child.  As  the  fortitude  and  good  conduct  of  the  poor 
woman  had  gained  for  her  the  good-will  of  the  party, 
her  situation  caused  concern  and  perplexity.  Pierre, 
however,  treated  the  matter  as  an  occurrence  that 
could  soon  be  arranged  and  need  cause  no  delay.  He 
remained  by  his  wife  in  the  camp,  with  his  other  chil- 
dren and  his  horse,  and  promised  soon  to  rejoin  the 
main  body,  who  proceeded  on  their  march. 


X 


ASTORIA 


291 


)wing 
herto 
Idenly 
lother 
poor 
>arty, 
|ierre> 
that 
He 
chil- 
the 


Finding  that  the  Httle  river  entered  the  mountains, 
they  abandoned  it,  and  turned  off  for  a  few  miles 
among  hills.  Here  another  Canadian,  named  La 
Bonte,  gave  out,  and  had  to  be  helped  on  horseback. 
As  the  horse  was  too  weak  to  bear  both  him  and  his 
pack,  Mr.  Hunt  took  the  latter  upon  his  own  shoulders. 
Thus,  with  difficulties  augmenting  at  every  step,  they 
urged  their  toilsome  way  among  the  hills,  half  fam- 
ished and  faint  at  heart,  when  they  came  to  where  a 
fair  valley  spread  out  before  them,  of  great  extent  and 
several  leagues  in  width,  with  a  beautiful  stream 
meandering  through  it.  A  genial  climate  seemed  to 
prevail  here,  for  though  the  snow  lay  upon  all  the 
mountains  within  sight,  there  was  none  to  be  seen  in 
the  valley.  The  travellers  gazed  with  delight  upon  this 
serene,  sunny  landscape,  but  their  joy  was  complete  on 
beholding  six  lodges  of  Shoshonies  pitched  upon  the 
borders  of  the  stream,  with  a  number  of  horses  and 
dogs  about  them.  They  all  pressed  forward  with 
eagerness  and  soon  reached  the  camp.  Here  their  first 
attention  was  to  obtain  provisions.  A  rifle,  an  old 
musket,  a  tomahawk,  a  tin  kettle,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  ammunition,  soon  procured  them  four  horses,  three 
dogs,  and  some  roots.  Part  of  the  live-stock  was  im- 
mediately killed,  cooked  with  all  expedition,  and  as 
promptly  devoured.  A  hearty  meal  restored  every  one 
to  good  spirits.  In  the  course  of  the  following  morn- 
ing the  Dorion  family  made  its  reappearance.  Pierre 
came  trudging  in  the  advance,  followed  by  his  valued, 
though  skeleton  steed,  on  which  was  mounted  his 
squaw  with  the  new-born  infant  in  her  arms,  and  her 
b'jjy  of  two  years  old  wrapped  in  a  blanket  and  slung 
at  her  side.  The  mother  looked  as  unconcerned  as  if 
nothing  had  happened  to  her ;  so  easy  is  nature  in  her 
operations  in  the  wilderness,  when  free  from  the  en- 
feebling refinements  of  luxury,  and  the  tamperings  and 
appliances  of  art. 


•1 

I 

I 


li'!- 


292 


ASTORIA 


w 


IP 


'1 1 


■;;i!   il 
■'  U  111  J 

■  i'   'I 
'■■"    I 

■    * 


t' 


|1i 


m 


lUhr  581, 

■  lis  J 


The  next  morning  ushered  in  the  new  year  (1812). 
Mr.  Hunt  was  about  to  resume  his  march,  when  his 
men  requested  permission  to  celebrate  the  day.  This 
was  particularly  urged  by  the  Canadian  voyageurs, 
with  whom  New- Year's  day  is  a  favorite  festival ;  and 
who  never  willingly  give  up  a  holiday,  under  any  cir- 
cumstances. There  was  no  resisting  such  an  applica- 
tion ;  so  the  day  was  passed  in  repose  and  revelry ;  the 
poor  Canadians  contrived  to  sing  and  dance  in  de- 
fiance of  all  their  hardships ;  and  there  was  a  sumptu- 
ous New- Year's  banquet  of  dog's  meat  and  horse  flesh. 

After  two  days  of  welcome  rest,  the  travellers  ad- 
dressed themselves  once  more  to  their  painful  journey. 
The  Indians  of  the  lodges  pointed  out  a  distant  gap 
through  which  they  must  pass  in  traversing  the  ridge 
of  mountains.  They  assured  them  that  they  would 
be  but  little  incommoded  by  snow,  and  in  three  .iays 
would  arrive  among  the  Sciatogas.  Mr.  Hunt,  how- 
ever, had  been  so  frequently  deceived  by  Indian  ac- 
counts of  routes  and  distances,  that  he  gave  but  little 
faith  to  this  information. 

The  travellers  continued  their  course  due  west  for 
five  days,  crossing  the  valley  and  entering  the  moun- 
tains. Here  the  travelling  became  exi  essively  toil- 
some, across  rough  stony  ridges,  and  amidst  fallen 
trees.  They  w^ere  often  knee  deep  in  snow,  and  some- 
times in  the  hollows  between  the  ridges  sank  up  to 
their  waists.  The  weather  was  extremely  cold;  the 
sky  covered  with  clouds  so  that  for  days  they  had  not 
a  glimpse  of  the  sun.  In  traversing  the  highest  ridge 
they  had  a  wide  but  chilling  prospect  over  a  wilderness 
of  snowy  mountains. 

On  the  6th  of  January,  however,  they  had  crossed 
the  dividing  summit  of  the  chain,  and  were  evidently 
under  the  influence  of  a  milder  climate.  The  snow 
began  to  decrease;  the  sun  once  more  emerged  from 
the  thick  canopy  of  clouds,  and  shone  cheeringly  upon 


ASTORIA 


293 


a  ays 
liow- 


ist  for 
[oun- 
toil- 
fallen 
some- 
tip  to 
the 
(1  not 
ridge 
rness 

rossed 
lently 
snow 
from 
upon 


them,  and  they  caught  a  sight  of  what  ap  »eared  t  he 
a  plain,  stretching  out  in  the  west.  They  hailec.  it 
as  the  poor  Israehtes  hailed  the  first  glimpse  of  tiie 
promised  land,  for  they  flattered  themselves  that  this 
might  be  the  great  plain  of  the  Columbia,  and  that 
their  painful  pilgrimage  might  be  drawing  to  a  close. 

It  was  now  five  days  since  they  had  left  the  lodges 
of  the  Shoshonies,  during  which  they  had  come  about 
sixty  miles,  and  their  guide  assured  them  that  in  the 
course  of  the  next  day  they  would  see  the  Sciatogas. 

On  the  following  morning,  therefore,  they  pushed 
forward  with  eagerness,  and  soon  fell  upon  a  small 
stream  which  led  them  through  a  deep  narrow  defile, 
between  stupendous  ridges.  Here  among  the  rocks 
and  precipices  they  saw  gangs  of  that  mountain-loving 
animal,  the  black-tailed  deer,  and  came  to  where  great 
tracks  of  horses  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  made 
by  the  Indian  hunters. 

The  snow  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  hopes 
of  soon  coming  upon  some  Indian  encampment  induced 
Mr.  Hunt  to  press  on.  Many  of  the  men,  however, 
were  so  enfeebled  that  they  could  not  keep  up  with 
the  main  body,  but  lagged  at  intervals  behind;  and 
some  of  them  did  not  arrive  at  the  night  encampment. 
In  the  course  of  this  day's  march  the  recently-born 
child  of  Pierre  Dorion  died. 

The  march  was  resumed  early  the  next  morning, 
without  waiting  for  the  stragglers.  The  stream  which 
they  had  followed  throughout  the  preceding  day  was 
now  swollen  by  the  influx  of  another  river;  the  de- 
clivities of  the  hills  were  green  and  the  valleys  were 
clothed  with  grass.  At  length  the  jovial  cry  was  given 
of  "  an  Indian  camp !  "  It  was  yet  in  the  distance, 
in  the  bosom  of  the  green  valley,  but  they  could  per- 
ceive that  it  consisted  of  numerous  lodges,  and  that 
hundreds  of  horses  were  grazing  the  grassy  meadows 
around  it.     The  prospect  of  abundance  of  horse  flesh 


1 

t 


1 .1 


I, 
i 


294 


ASTORIA 


w 


'I'l;  1 
I'  ■ 


Mi; 

I  I 


diffused  universal  joy,  for  by  this  time  the  whole  stock 
of  travelling  provisions  was  reduced  to  the  skeleton 
steed  of  Pierre  Dorion,  and  another  wretched  animal, 
equally  emaciated,  that  had  been  repeatedly  reprieved 
during  the  journey. 

A  forced  march  soon  brought  the  weary  and  hungry 
travellers  to  the  camp.  It  proved  to  be  a  strong  party 
of  Sciatogas  and  Tus-che-pas.  There  were  thirty- 
four  lodges,  comfortably  constructed  of  mats;  the 
Indians,  too,  were  better  clothed  than  any  of  the  wan- 
dering bands  they  had  hitherto  met  on  this  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Indeed  they  were  as  well  clad  as 
the  generality  of  the  wild  hunter  tribes.  Each  had  a 
good  buffalo  or  deer-skin  robe ;  and  a  deer-skin  hunt- 
ing shirt  and  leggins.  Upwards  of  two  thousand 
horses  were  ranging  the  pastures  around  their  encamp- 
ment; but  what  delighted  Mr.  Hunt  was,  on  entering 
the  lodges,  to  behold  brass  kettles,  axes,  copper  tea- 
kettles, and  various  other  articles  of  civilized  manu- 
facture, which  showed  that  these  Indians  had  an  in- 
direct communication  with  the  people  of  the  sea-coast 
who  traded  with  the  \vhites.  He  made  eager  inquiries 
of  the  Sciatogas,  and  gathered  from  them  that  the 
great  river  (the  Columbia)  was  but  two  days'  march 
distant,  and  that  several  white  people  had  recently  de- 
scended it;  who  he  hoped  might  prove  fo  be  M'Lellan, 
M'Kenzie,  and  their  companions. 

It  was  with  the  utmost  joy  and  the  most  profound 
gratitude  to  heaven,  that  Mr.  Hunt  found  himself  and 
his  band  of  weary  and  famishing  wanderers  thus  safely 
extricated  from  the  most  perilous  part  of  their  long 
journey,  and  within  the  prospect  of  a  termination  of 
their  toils.  All  the  stragglers  who  had  lagged  behind 
arrived,  one  after  another,  excepting  the  poor  Cana- 
dian voyageur,  Carriere.  He  had  been  seen  late  in  the 
preceding  afternoon,  riding  behind  a  Snake  Indian, 
near  some  lodges  of  that  nation,  a  few  miles  distant 


:  Stock 
eleton 
ninial, 
Tieved 

iiingry 
■  party 
thirty- 
;;    the 
i  wan- 
of  the 
:la(l  as 
had  a 
1  hunt- 
ousand 
iicamp- 
iitering 
er  tea- 
manu- 
an  in- 
a-coast 
quiries 
at  the 
march 
[tly  de- 
ellan, 

rfound 
tlf  and 

safely 
long 
Hon  of 

)ehind 
1  Cana- 

in  the 
Indian, 

listant 


J 


ASTORIA 


^95 


from  the  last  night's  encampment ;  and  it  was  ex- 
pected that  he  would  soon  make  his  appearance. 

Tlie  tirst  ohject  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  to  ol)tain  provi- 
sions for  his  men.  A  little  venison  of  an  indifferent 
quality,  and  some  roots  were  all  that  could  he  pro- 
cured that  evening;  hut  the  next  day  he  succeeded  in 
purchasing  a  mare  and  coU,  which  were  immediately 
killed,  rnd  the  cravings  of  the  half-starved  people  in 
some  degree  appeased. 

For  several  days  they  remained  in  the  neighhorhood 
of  these  Indians,  reposing  after  all  their  hardships, 
and  feasting  upon  horse  Hesh  and  roots,  ohtained  in 
sul)se(iuent  traffic.  Many  of  the  people  ate  to  such  ex- 
cess as  to  render  themselves  sick,  others  were  lame 
from  their  past  journey ;  hut  all  gradually  recruited 
in  the  repose  and  ahundance  of  the  valley.  Horses 
were  ohtained  here  much  more  readily,  and  at  a  cheaper 
rate,  than  among  the  Snakes.  A  hlanket,  a  knife,  or 
a  half  pound  of  hlue  beads  would  purchase  a  steed, 
and  at  this  rate  many  of  the  men  bought  horses  for 
their  individual  use. 

This  tribe  of  Indians,  who  are  represented  as  a 
proud-spirited  race,  and  uncommonly  cleanly,  never  eat 
horses  or  dogs,  nor  would  they  permit  the  raw^  flesh  of 
either  to  be  brought  into  their  huts.  They  had  a  small 
quantity  of  venison  in  each  lodge,  but  set  so  high  a 
price  upon  it  that  the  white  men,  in  their  impoverished 
state,  could  not  afford  to  purchase  it.  They  hunted 
the  deer  on  horseback ;  **  ringing,"  or  surrounding 
them,  and  running  them  down  in  a  circle.  They  were 
admirable  horsemen,  and  their  weapons  were  bows 
and  arrows,  which  they  managed  with  great  dexterity. 
They  were  altogether  primitive  in  their  habits,  and 
seemed  to  cling  to  the  usages  of  savage  life,  even  when 
possessed  of  the  aids  of  civilization.  They  had  axes 
among  them,  yet  they  generally  made  use  of  a  stone 
mallet  wrought  into  the  shape  of  a  bottle  and  wedges 


1 

t 


296 


ASTORIA 


m 

ijf 

M'4i 

■■■'?;» 


'VV 


I    1  '-3JII 


11' 


r,        I 


\U^> 


J, 

I       : 


ill 


of  elk  horn,  in  splitting-  their  wood.  Though  they 
might  have  two  or  three  brass  kettles  hanging  in  their 
lodges,  yet  they  would  frequently  use  vessels  made  of 
willow,  for  carrying  water,  and  would  even  boil  their 
meat  in  them,  by  means  of  hot  stones.  Their  women 
wore  caps  of  willow  neatly  worked  and  figured. 

As  Carriere,  the  Canadian  straggler,  did  not  make 
his  appearance  for  two  or  three  days  after  the  encamp- 
ment in  the  valley,  two  men  were  sent  out  on  horse- 
back in  search  of  him.  They  returned,  however,  with- 
out success.  The  lodges  of  the  Snake  Indians  near 
which  he  had  been  seen  were  removed,  and  they  could 
find  no  trace  of  him.  Several  days  more  elapsed,  yet 
nothing  was  seen  or  heard  of  him,  or  of  the  Snake 
horseman,  behind  whom  he  had  been  last  observed. 
It  was  feared,  therefore,  that  he  had  either  perished 
through  hunger  and  fatigue;  had  been  murdered  by 
the  Indians;  or,  being  left  to  himself,  had  mistaken 
some  hunting  tracks  for  the  trail  of  the  party,  and 
been  led  astray  and  lost. 

The  river  on  the  banks  of  which  they  were  en- 
camped, emptied  into  the  Columbia,  was  called  by  the 
natives  the  Eu-o-tal-la,  or  Umatalla,  and  abounded  with 
beaver.  In  the  course  of  their  sojourn  in  the  valley 
which  it  watered,  they  twice  shifted  their  camp,  pro- 
ceeding about  thirty  miles  down  its  course,  which  was 
to  the  west.  A  heavy  fall  of  rain  caused  the  river  to 
overflow  its  banks,  dislodged  them  from  their  encamp- 
ment, and  drowned  three  of  their  horses  which  were 
tethered  in  the  low  ground. 

Further  conversation  with  the  Indians  satisfied  them 
that  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Columbia. 
The  number  of  the  white  men  who  they  said  had  passed 
down  the  river,  agreed  with  that  of  M'Lellan,  M'Ken- 
zie,  and  their  companions,  and  increased  the  hope  of 
Mr.  Hunt  that  they  might  have  passed  through  the 
wilderness  with  safety. 


en- 
)y  the 
1  with 
valley 
pro- 
1  was 
er  to 
amp- 
were 

them 
Imbia. 
lassed 
fKen- 
)e  of 
the 


ASTORIA 


297 


These  Indians  had  a  vague  story  that  white  men 
were  coming  to  trade  among  them ;  and  they  often 
spoke  of  two  great  men  named  Ke-Koosh  and  Jac- 
quean,  who  gave  them  tobacco,  and  smoked  with 
them.  Jacquean,  they  said,  had  a  house  somewhere 
upon  the  great  river.  Some  of  the  Canadians  sup- 
posed they  were  speaking  of  one  Jacquean  Finlay,  a 
clerk  of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  inferred  that 
the  house  must  be  some  trading  post  on  one  of  the 
tributary  streams  of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  were 
overjoyed  when  they  found  this  band  of  white  men 
intended  to  return  and  trade  wnth  them.  Thev 
promised  to  use  all  diligence  in  collecting  quantities 
of  beaver  skins,  and  no  doubt  proceeded  to  make 
deadly  war  upon  that  sagacious,  but  ill-fated  animal, 
who,  in  general,  lived  in  peaceful  insignificance  among 
his  Indian  neighbors,  before  the  intrusion  of  the  white 
trader.  On  the  20th  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt  took  leave 
of  these  friendly  Indians,  and  of  the  river  on  which 
they  encamped,  and  continued  westward. 

At  length,  on  the  following  day,  the  wayworn  travel- 
lers lifted  up  their  eyes  and  beheld  before  them  the 
long-sought  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The  sight  was 
hailed  w'ith  as  much  transport  as  if  they  had  already 
reached  the  end  of  their  pilgrimage ;  nor  can  we  won- 
der at  their  joy.  Two  hundred  and  forty  miles  had 
they  marched,  through  wintry  wastes  and  rugged 
mountains,  since  leaving  Snake  River ;  and  six  months 
of  perilous  wayfaring  had  they  experienced  since  their 
departure  from  the  Arickara  village  on  the  Missouri. 
Their  whole  route  by  land  and  water  from  that  point 
had  been,  according  to  their  computation,  seventeen 
hundred  and  fifty-one  miles,  in  the  course  of  which 
they  had  endured  all  kinds  of  hardships.  In  fact,  the 
necessity  of  avoiding  the  dangerous  country  of  the 
Black  feet  had  obliged  them  to  make  a  bend  to  the  south 
and  traverse  a  great  additional  extent  of  unknown 
wilderness. 


298 


ASTORIA 


i    u 


'*    ''"U 


The  place  where  they  struck  the  Columbia  was  some 
distance  below  the  junction  of  its  two  great  branches, 
Lewis  and  Clarke  rivers,  and  not  far  from  the  influx 
of  the  Wallah-Wallah.  It  was  a  beautiful  stream, 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  totally  free  from  trees ; 
bordered  in  some  places  with  steep  rocks,  in  others 
with  pebbled  shores. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  they  found  a  miser- 
able horde  of  Indians,  called  Akai-chies,  with  no  cloth- 
ing but  a  scanty  mantle  of  the  skins  of  animals,  and 
sometimes  a  pair  of  sleeves  of  wolf's  skin.  Their 
lodges  were  shaped  like  a  tent,  and  very  light  and 
warm,  being  covered  with  mats  of  rushes;  beside 
which  they  had  excavations  in  the  ground,  lined  with 
mats,  and  occupied  by  the  women,  who  were  even  more 
slightly  clad  than  the  men.  These  people  subsisted 
chiefly  by  fishing;  having  canoes  of  a  rude  construc- 
tion, being  merely  the  trunks  of  pine  trees  split  and 
hollowed  out  by  fire.  Their  lodges  were  well  stored 
with  dried  salmon,  and  they  had  great  quantities  of 
fresh  salmon  trout  of  an  excellent  flavor,  taken  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Umatalla;  of  which  the  travellers  ob- 
tained a  most  acceptable  supply. 

Finding  that  the  road  was  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  Mr.  Hunt  crossed,  and  continued  five  or  six 
days  travelling  rather  slowly  down  along  its  banks, 
being  much  delayed  by  the  straying  of  the  horses,  and 
the  attempts  made  by  the  Indians  to  steal  them.  They 
frequently  passed  lodges,  where  they  obtained  fish  and 
dogs.  At  one  place  the  natives  had  just  returned  from 
hunting,  and  had  brought  back  a  large  quantity  of 
elk  and  deer  meat,  but  asked  so  high  a  price  for  it  as 
to  be  beyond  the  funds  of  the  travellers,  so  they  had  to 
content  themselves  with  dog's  flesh.  They  had  by  this 
time,  however,  come  to  consider  it  very  choice  food, 
superior  to  horse  flesh,  and  the  minutes  of  the  expedi- 
tion speak  rather  exultingly  now  and  then,  of  their 


\ 


ASTORIA 


299 


/ 


)f  the 
)r   six 
)anks, 
>,  and 
They 
|h  and 
from 
|ty  of 
it  as 
kd  to 
this 
I  food, 
:pedi- 
their 


having  made  a  "  famous  repast,"  where  this  viand 
happened  to  be  unusually  plenty. 

They  again  learnt  tidings  of  some  of  the  scattered 
members  of  the  expedition,  supposed  to  be  M'Kenzie, 
M'Lellan,  and  their  men,  who  had  preceded  them  down 
the  river,  and  had  overturned  one  of  their  canoes,  by 
which  they  lost  many  articles.  All  these  floating  pieces 
of  intelligence  of  their  fellow  adventurers,  who  had 
separated  from  them  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness, 
they  received  with  eager  interest. 

The  weather  continued  to  be  temperate,  marking  the 
superior  softness  of  the  climate  on  this  side  of  the 
mountains.  For  a  great  part  of  the  time,  the  days  were 
delightfully  mild  and  clear,  like  the  serene  days  of 
October  on  the  Atlantic  borders.  The  country  in  gen- 
eral, in  the  neighborhood  of  the  river,  was  a  continual 
plain,  low  near  the  water,  but  rising  gradually ;  desti- 
tute of  trees,  and  almost  without  shrubs  or  plants  of 
any  kind,  excepting  a  few  willow  bushes.  After  travel- 
ling about  sixty  miles,  they  came  to  where  the  country 
became  very  hilly  and  the  river  made  its  way  between 
rocky  banks,  and  down  numerous  rapids.  The  Indians 
in  this  vicinity  were  better  clad  and  altogether  in  more 
prosperous  condition  than  those  above,  and,  as  Mr. 
Hunt  thought,  shov  ed  their  consciousness  of  ease  by 
something  like  sauciness  of  manner.  Thus  prosperity 
is  apt  to  produce  arrogance  in  savage  as  well  as  in 
civilized  life.  In  both  conditions,  man  is  an  animal 
that  will  not  bear  pampering. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Hunt  for  the  first  time  re- 
ceived vague,  but  deeply  interesting  intelligence  of  that 
part  of  the  enterprise  which  had  proceeded  by  sea  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  spoke  of  a 
number  of  white  men  who  had  built  a  large  house  at 
the  mouth  of  the  great  river,  and  surrounded  it  with 
palisades.  None  of  them  had  been  down  to  Astoria 
themselves;    but   rumors   spread   widely   and   rapidly 


i  :  I      I 


I 


■4 

,  1 


300 


ASTORIA 


'HO 


from  mouth  to  mouth  among-  the  Indian  tribes,  and  are 
carried  to  the  heart  of  the  interior  by  hunting  parties 
and  migratory  hordes. 

The  establishment  of  a  trading  emporium  at  such  a 
point,  also,  was  calculated  to  cause  a  sensation  to  the 
most  remote  parts  of  the  vast  wilderness  beyond  the 
mountains.  It  in  a  manner  struck  the  pulse  of  the 
great  vital  river,  and  vibrated  up  all  its  tributary 
streams. 

It  is  surprising  to  notice  how  well  this  remote  tribe 
of  savages  had  learnt  through  intermediate  gossips, 
the  private  feelmgs  of  the  colonists  at  Astoria:  it 
shows  that  Indians  are  not  the  incurious  and  indifferent 
observers  that  they  have  been  represented.  They  told 
Mr.  Hunt  that  the  white  people  at  the  large  house  had 
been  looking  anxiously  for  many  of  their  friends, 
whom  they  had  expected  to  descend  the  great  river; 
and  had  been  in  much  affliction,  fearing  that  they  were 
lost.  Nov/,  however,  the  arrival  of  him  and  his  party 
would  wipe  away  all  their  tears,  and  they  would  dance 
and  sing  for  joy. 

On  the  31st  of  January,  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  at  the 
falls  of  the  Columbia,  and  encamped  at  the  village  of 
the  Wish-ram,  situated  at  the  head  of  that  dangerous 
pass  of  the  river  called  "  the  Long  Narrows." 


•■itsiat 


'ill 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII 

Of  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  the  aborigines'  fishing 
mart  of  the  Columbia,  we  have  given  some  account  in 
an  early  chapter  of  this  work.  The  inhabitants  held  a 
traffic  in  the  productions  of  the  fisheries  of  the  falls, 
and  their  village  was  the  trading  resort  of  the  tribes 
from  the  coast  and  from  the  mountains.  Mr.  Hunt 
found  the  inhabitants  shrewder  and  more  intelligent 


and  are 
parties 

such  a 
I  to  the 
Diid  the 

of  the 
•ibutary 

ite  tribe 
g^ossips, 
>ria :  it 
iifferent 
ley  told 
use  had 
friends, 
t  river; 
ey  were 
is  party 
d  dance 

at  the 
|lage  of 
igerous 


ASTORIA 


301 


I  fishing 

)unt  in 

held  a 

falls, 

tribes 

Hunt 

[lligent 


than  any  Indians  he  had  met  with.  Trade  had  sharp- 
ened their  wits,  though  it  had  not  improved  their  hon- 
esty ;  for  they  were  a  community  of  arrant  rogues  and 
freebooters.  Their  habitations  comported  with  their 
circumstances,  and  were  superior  to  any  the  travellers 
had  yet  seen  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  general, 
the  dwellings  of  the  savages  on  the  Pacific  side  of 
that  great  barrier  were  mere  tents  and  cabins  of  mats, 
or  skins,  or  straw,  the  country  being  destitute  of  tim- 
ber. In  Wish-ram,  on  the  contrary,  the  houses  were 
built  of  wood,  with  long  sloping  roofs.  The  floor  was 
sunk  about  six  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
W'ith  a  low  door  at  the  gable  end,  extremely  narrow, 
and  partly  sunk.  Through  this  it  was  necessary  to 
crawl  and  then  to  descend  a  short  ladder.  This  incon- 
venient entrance  was  probably  for  the  purpose  of  de- 
fence; there  were  loop-holes  also  under  the  eaves,  ap- 
parently for  the  discharge  of  arrows.  The  houses 
were  large,  generally  containing  two  or  three  families. 
Immediately  within  the  door  were  sleeping  places, 
ranged  along  the  walls,  like  berths  in  a  ship;  and  fur- 
nished with  pallets  of  matting.  These  extended  along 
one  half  of  the  building;  the  remaining  half  was  ap- 
propriated to  the  storing  of  dried  fish. 

The  trading  operations  of  the  inhabitants  of  Wish- 
ram  had  given  them  a  wider  scope  of  information,  and 
rendered  their  village  a  kind  of  headquarters  of  intel- 
ligence. Mr.  Hunt  was  able,  therefore,  to  collect  more 
distinct  tidings  concerning  the  settlement  of  Astoria 
and  its  affairs.  One  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  at 
the  trading  post  established  by  David  Stuart  on  the 
Oakinagan,  and  had  picked  up  a  few  words  of  English 
there.  From  him,  Mr.  Hunt  gleaned  various  particu- 
lars about  that  establishment,  as  well  as  about  the  gen- 
eral concerns  of  the  enterprise.  Others  repeated  the 
name  of  Mr.  M'Kay,  the  partner  who  perished  in  the 
massacre  on  board  of  the  Tonquin,  and  gave  some 


I 


302 


ASTORIA 


ffr 


n 


una' 

■::;;i) 


m 


1 


'.ill- 


•!•■ 


account  of  that  melancholy  afifair.  They  said  Mr. 
M'Kay  was  a  chief  among  the  white  men,  and  had  built 
a  great  house  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  but  had  left  it 
and  sailed  away  in  a  large  ship  to  the  northward 
w^here  he  had  been  attacked  by  bad  Indians  in  canoes. 
Mr.  Hunt  was  startled  by  this  intelligence,  and  made 
further  inquiries.  They  informed  him  that  the  In- 
dians had  lashed  their  canoes  to  the  ship,  and  fought 
until  they  killed  him  and  all  his  people.  This  is  an- 
other instance  of  the  clearness  with  which  intelligence 
is  transmitted  from  mouth  to  mouth  among  the  In- 
dian tribes.  These  tidings,  though  but  partially 
credited  by  Mr.  Hunt,  filled  his  mind  with  anxious 
forebodings.  He  now  endeavored  to  procure  canoes, 
in  which  to  descend  the  Columbia,  but  none  suitable 
for  the  purpose  were  to  be  obtained  above  the  Nar- 
rows; he  continued  on,  therefore,  the  distance  of 
twelve  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 
The  camp  was  soon  surrounded  by  loitering  savages, 
who  went  prowling  about  seeking  what  they  might 
pilfer.  Being  baffled  by  the  vigilance  of  the  guard, 
they  endeavored  to  compass  their  ends  by  other  means. 
Towards  evening,  a  number  of  warriors  entered  the 
camp  in  ruffling  style;  painted  and  dressed  out  as  if 
for  battle,  and  armed  with  lances,  bows  and  arrows, 
and  scalping-knives.  They  informed  Mr.  Hunt  that  a 
party  of  thirty  or  forty  braves  were  coming  up  from 
a  village  below  to  attack  the  camp  and  carry  off  the 
horses,  but  that  they  were  determined  to  stay  with  him 
and  defend  him.  Mr.  Hunt  received  them  with  great 
coldness,  and,  when  they  had  finished  their  story,  gave 
them  a  pipe  to  smoke.  He  then  called  up  all  hands, 
stationed  sentinels  in  different  quarters,  but  told  them 
to  keep  as  vigilant  an  eye  within  the  camp  as  without. 
The  warriors  were  evidently  baffled  by  these  pre- 
cautions, and,  having  smoked  their  pipe,  and  vapored 
off  their  valor,  took  their  departure.     The  farce,  how- 


id   Mr. 
id  built 
1  left  it 
thward 
canoes. 
1  made 
the  In- 
foiight 
i  is  an- 
lligence 
the  In- 
lartially 
anxious 
canoes, 
suitable 
le  Nar- 
mce   of 
e  river, 
avages, 
might 
guard, 
means, 
ed  the 
t  as  if 
rrows, 
that  a 
[)  from 
ff  the 
Ith  him 
great 
gave 
|hands, 
them 
tthout. 
le  pre- 
^pored 
how- 


ASTORIA 


303 


ever,  did  not  end  here.  After  a  little  while  the  war- 
riors returned,  ushering  in  another  savage,  still  more 
heroically  arrayed.  This  they  announced  as  the  chief 
of  the  belligerent  village,  but  as  a  great  pacificator. 
His  people  had  been  furiously  bent  upon  the  attack, 
and  would  have  doubtless  carried  it  into  effect,  but 
this  gallant  chief  had  stood  forth  as  the  friend  of  white 
men,  and  had  dispersed  the  throng  by  his  own  authority 
and  prowess.  Having  vaunted  this  signal  piece  of  ser- 
vice, there  was  a  significant  pause ;  all  evidently  ex- 
pecting some  adequate  reward.  Mr.  Hunt  again  pro- 
duced the  pipe,  smoked  with  the  chieftain  and  his 
worthy  compeers;  but  made  no  further  demonstra- 
tions of  gratitude.  They  remained  about  the  camp  all 
night,  but  at  daylight  returned,  baffled  and  crestfallen, 
to  their  homes,  with  nothing  but  smoke  for  their  pains. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  endeavored  to  procure  canoes,  of 
which  he  saw  several  about  the  neighborhood,  ex- 
tremely well  made,  wnth  elevated  stems  and  sterns, 
some  of  them  capable  of  carrying  three  thousand 
ix)unds  w^eight.  He  found  it  extremely  difficult,  how- 
ever, to  deal  with  these  slippery  people,  who  seemed 
much  more  inclined  to  pilfer.  Notwithstanding  a  strict 
guard  maintained  round  the  camp,  various  implements 
were  stolen,  and  several  horses  carried  off.  Among 
the  latter,  we  have  to  include  the  long-cherished  steed 
of  Pierre  Dorion.  From  some  wilful  caprice  that 
worthy  pitched  his  tent  at  some  distance  from  the 
main  body,  and  tethered  his  invaluable  steed  beside  it, 
from  whence  it  was  abstracted  in  the  night,  to  the 
infinite  chagrin  and  mortification  of  the  hybrid 
interpreter. 

Having,  after  several  days'  negotiation,  procured 
the  requisite  number  of  canoes,  Mr.  Hunt  would  gladly 
have  left  this  thievish  neighborhood,  but  was  detained 
until  the  5th  of  February  by  violent  head  winds,  ac- 
companied by  snow  and  rain.     Even  after  he  was  en- 


f 


Ml 


304 


ASTORIA 


lit'* 
lifiiiiiit 

%\ 

:'"i.t 


t 


^li' 


:l|!lP 


«t 


'.": '  Mil 


abled  to  get  under  way,  he  bad  still  to  struggle  against 
contrary  winds  and  tempestuous  weather.  The  cur- 
rent of  the  river,  however,  was  in  his  favor;  having 
made  a  portage  at  the  grand  rapid,  the  canoes  met  with 
no  further  obstruction,  and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
15th  of  February,  swept  round  an  intervening  cape,  and 
came  in  sight  of  the  infant  settlement  of  Astoria.  Af- 
ter eleven  months  wandering  in  the  wilderness,  a  great 
part  of  the  time  over  trackless  wastes,  where  the  sight 
of  a  savage  wigwam  was  a  rarity,  we  may  imagine  the 
delight  of  the  poor  weather-beaten  travellers,  at  behold- 
ing the  embryo  establishment,  with  its  magazines,  habi- 
tations, and  picketed  bulwarks,  seated  on  a  high  point 
of  land,  dominating  a  beautiful  little  bay,  in  which  was 
a  trim-built  shallop  riding  quietly  at  anchor.  A  shout 
of  joy  burst  from  each  canoe  at  the  long-wished-for 
sight.  They  urged  their  canoes  across  the  bay,  and 
pulled  with  eagerness  for  shore,  where  all  hands  poured 
down  from  the  settlement  to  receive  and  welcome  them. 
Among  the  first  to  greet  them  on  their  landing,  were 
some  of  their  old  comrades  and  fellow-sufferers,  who, 
under  the  conduct  of  Reed,  M'Lellan,  and  M'Kenzie, 
had  parted  from  them  at  the  Caldron  Linn.  These 
had  reached  Astoria  nearly  a  month  previously,  and, 
judging  from  their  own  narrow  escape  from  starva- 
tion, had  given  up  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  followers  as  lost. 
Their  greeting  was  the  more  warm  and  cordial.  As 
to  the  Canadian  voyageurs.  their  mutual  felicitations, 
as  usual,  were  loud  and  vociferous,  and  it  was  almost 
ludicrous  to  behold  these  ancient  "  comrades "  and 
*'  confreres,"  hugging  and  kissing  each  other  on  the 
river  bank. 

When  the  first  greetings  were  over,  the  different 
bands  interchanged  accounts  of  their  several  wander- 
ings, after  separating  at  Snake  River ;  we  shall  briefly 
notice  a  few  of  the  leading  particulars.  It  will  be 
recollected  by  the  reader,  that  a  small  exploring  de- 


ASTORIA 


305 


t  against 
riie  ciir- 
i    having 
met  with 
n  of  the 
:ape,  and 
ria.    Af- 
;,  a  great 
the  sight 
igine  the 
,t  behold- 
les,  habi- 
igh  point 
hicli  was 
A  shout 
ished-for 
bay,  and 
Is  poured 
me  them, 
ng,  were 
lYS,  who, 
['Kenzie, 
These 
sly,  and, 
1  starva- 
5  as  lost, 
ial.     As 
itations. 
is  almost 
s"   and 
on  the 

tlifferent 

jwander- 

(1  briefly 

will  be 

[ing  de- 


tachment had  proceeded  down  the  river,  under  the  con- 
duct of  Mr.  John  Reed,  a  clerk  of  the  company ;  that 
another  had  set  off  under  M'Lellan,  and  a  third  in  a 
different  direction,  under  M'Kenzie.  After  wandering 
for  several  days  without  meeting  with  Indians,  or  ob- 
taining any  supplies,  they  came  together  fortuitously 
among  the  Snake  River  mountains,  some  distance  be- 
low that  disastrous  pass  or  strait  which  had  received 
the  appellation  of  the  Devil's  Scuttle  Hole. 

When  thus  united,  their  party  consisted  of  M'Ken- 
zie, M'Lellan,  Reed,  and  eight  men,  chiefly  Canadians. 
Being  all  in  the  same  predicament,  without  horses, 
provisions,  or  information  of  any  kind,  they  all  agreed 
that  it  would  be  worse  than  useless  to  return  to  Mr. 
Hunt  and  encumber  him  with  so  many  starving  men, 
and  that  their  only  course  was  to  extricate  themselves 
as  soon  as  possible  from  this  land  of  famine  and 
misery  and  make  the  best  of  their  way  for  the  Colum- 
bia. They  accordingly  continued  to  follow  the  down- 
w^ard  course  of  Snake  River;  clambering  rocks  and 
mountains,  and  defying  all  the  difficulties  and  dangers 
of  that  rugged  defile,  which  subsequently,  when  the 
snows  had  fallen,  was  found  impassable  by  Messrs. 
Hunt  and  Crooks. 

Though  constantly  near  to  the  borders  of  the  river, 
and  for  a  great  part  of  the  time  within  sight  of  its 
current,  one  of  their  greatest  sufferings  was  thirst. 
The  river  had  worn  its  way  in  a  deep  channel  through 
rocky  mountains,  destitute  of  brooks  or  springs.  Its 
banks  were  so  high  and  precipitous,  that  there  was 
rarely  any  place  where  the  travellers  could  get  down 
to  drink  of  its  waters.  Frequently  they  suffered  for 
miles  the  torments  of  Tantalus ;  water  continually 
within  sight,  yet  fevered  with  the  most  parching  thirst. 
Here  and  there  they  met  with  rain-water  collected  in 
the  hollows  of  the  rocks,  but  more  than  once  they  were 
reduced  to  the  utmost  extremity;    and  some  of  the 


20 


3o6 


ASTORIA 


m 

■;;iii) 

■■■"■•n 
..,>-t 


■'lis 


=  :!4:!n^r)ia| 


lii '  ;i '!»«» 


f 


men  had  recourse  to  the  last  expedient  to  avoid 
perishing. 

Their  sufferings  from  hunger  were  equally  severe. 
They  could  meet  with  no  game,  and  subsisted  for  a 
time  on  strips  of  beaver  skin,  broiled  on  the  coals. 
These  were  doled  out  in  scanty  allowances,  barely  suf- 
ficient to  keep  up  existence,  and  at  length  failed  them 
altogether.  Still  they  crept  feebly  on,  scarce  dragging 
one  limb  after  another,  until  a  severe  snow-storm 
brought  them  to  a  pause.  To  struggle  against  it,  in 
their  exhausted  condition,  was  impossible,  so  cowering 
under  an  impending  rock  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  moun- 
tain, they  prepared  themselves  for  that  wretched  fate 
which  seemed  inevitable. 

At  this  critical  juncture,  when  famine  stared  them 
in  the  face,  MT^ellan  casting  up  his  eyes,  beheld  an 
ahsahta,  or  bighorn,  sheltering  itself  under  a  shelving 
rock  on  the  side  of  the  hill  above  them.  Being  in  a 
more  active  plight  than  any  of  his  comrades,  and  an 
excellent  marksman,  he  set  off  to  get  within  shot  of 
the  animal.  His  companions  watched  his  movements 
with  breathless  anxiety,  for  their  lives  depended  upon 
his  success.  He  made  a  cautious  circuit;  scrambled 
up  the  hill  with  the  utmost  silence,  and  at  length  ar- 
rived, unperceived,  within  a  proper  distance.  Here 
levelling  his  rifle  he  took  so  sure  an  aim,  that  the  big- 
horn fell  dead  on  the  spot;  a  fortunate  circumstance, 
for,  to  pursue  it,  if  merely  wounded,  would  have  been 
impossible  in  his  emaciated  state.  The  declivity  of  the 
hill  enabled  him  to  roll  the  carcass  down  to  his  com- 
panions, who  were  too  feeble  to  climb  the  rocks.  They 
fell  to  work  to  cut  it  up ;  yet  exerted  a  remarkable  self- 
denial  for  men  in  their  starving  condition,  for  they  con- 
tented themselves  for  the  present  with  a  soup  made 
from  the  bones,  reserving  the  flesh  for  future  repasts. 
This  providential  relief  gave  them  strength  to  pursue 
their  journey,  but  they  were  frequently  reduced  to  al- 


avoid 

severe. 
1  for  a 
t  coals, 
sly  suf- 
;d  them 
-agging 
v-storm 
;t  it,  in 
)wering 
»  moun- 
led  fate 

:d  them 
held  an 
ihelving 
ng  in  a 
and  an 
shot  of 
ements 
d  upon 
ambled 
|gth  ar- 
Here 
he  big- 
stance, 
^e  been 
of  the 
IS  com- 
They 
He  self- 
ly  con- 
made 
[epasts. 
mrsue 
to  al- 


ASTORIA 


307 


n 


most  equal  straits,  and  it  was  only  the  smallness  of  their 
party,  requiring  a  small  supply  of  provisions,  that  en- 
abled them  to  get  through  this  desolate  region  with 
their  lives. 

At  length,  after  twenty-one  days  of  toil  and  suffering, 
they  got  through  these  mountains,  and  arrived  at  a  trib- 
utary stream  of  that  branch  of  the  Columbia  called 
Lewis  River,  of  which  Snake  River  forms  the  southern 
fork.  In  this  neighborhood  they  met  with  wild  horses, 
the  first  they  had  seen  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
From  hence  they  made  their  way  to  Lewis  River,  where 
they  fell  in  with  a  friendly  tribe  of  Indians,  who  freely 
administered  to  their  necessities.  On  this  river  they 
procured  two  canoes,  in  which  they  dropped  down  the 
stream  to  its  confluence*  with  the  Columbia,  and  then 
down  that  river  to  Astoria,  where  they  arrived  haggard 
and  emaciated,  and  perfectly  in  rags. 

Thus,  all  the  leading  persons  of  Mr.  Hunt's  expedi- 
tion were  once  more  gathered  together,  excepting  Mr. 
Crooks,  of  whose  safety  they  entertained  but  little 
hope,  considering  the  feeble  condition  in  which  they 
had  been  compelled  to  leave  him  in  the  heart  of  the 
wilderness. 

A  day  was  now  given  up  to  jubilee,  to  celebrate  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions,  and  the  joy- 
ful meeting  of  the  various  scattered  bands  of  adventur- 
ers at  Astoria.  The  colors  were  hoisted;  the  guns, 
great  and  small,  were  fired ;  there  was  a  feast  of  fish, 
of  beaver,  and  venison,  which  relished  well  with  men 
who  had  so  long  been  glad  to  revel  on  horse  flesh  and 
dogs'  meat;  a  genial  allowance  of  grog  was  issued, 
to  increase  the  general  animation,  and  the  festivities 
wound  up,  as  usual,  with  a  grand  dance  at  night,  by 
the  Canadian  voyageurs.^ 

*  The  distance  from  St.  Louis  to  Astoria,  by  the  route  travelled 
by  Hunt  and  M'Kenzie,  was  upwards  of  thirty-five  hundred  miles, 
though  in  a  direct  line  it  does  not  exceed  eighteen  hundred. 


3o8 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 


The  winter  passed  away  traiKjuilly  at  Astoria.  The 
apprehensions  of  hostihty  from  the  natives  had  suh- 
sided ;  indeed,  as  the  season  advanced,  the  Indians  for 
the  most  part  had  cHsappeared  from  the  neighborhood, 
and  abandoned  the  sea-coast,  so  that,  for  want  of  their 
aid,  the  colonists  had  at  times  suffered  considera1)ly  for 
want  of  provisions.  The  hunters  belonging  to  the  es- 
tablishment made  frequent  and  wide  excursions,  but 
with  very  moderate  success.  There  were  some  deer 
and  a  few  bears  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  elk 
in  great  numbers;  the  country,  however,  was  so  rough, 
and  the  woods  so  close  and  entangled  that  it  was  al- 
most impossible  to  beat  up  the  game.  The  prevalent 
rains  of  winter,  also,  rendered  it  difficult  for  the 
hunter  to  keep  his  arms  in  order.  The  quantity  of 
game,  therefore,  brought  in  by  the  hunters  was  ex- 
tremely scanty,  and  it  was  frequently  necessary  to  put 
all  hands  on  very  moderate  allowance.  Towards 
spring,  however,  the  fishing  season  commenced  — 
the  season  of  plenty  on  the  Columbia.  About  the  be- 
ginning of  February,  a  small  kind  of  fish,  about  six 
inches  long,  called  by  the  natives  the  uthlecan,  and 
resembling  the  smelt,  made  its  appearance  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river.  It  is  said  to  be  of  delicious  flavor,  and  so 
fat  as  to  burn  like  a  candle,  for  which  it  is  often  used 
by  the  natives.  It  enters  the  river  in  immense  shoals, 
like  solid  columns,  often  extending  to  the  depth  of  five 
or  more  feet,  and  is  scooped  up  by  the  natives  with 
small  nets  at  the  end  of  poles.  In  this  way  they  will 
soon  fill  a  canoe,  or  form  a  great  heap  upon  the  river 
banks.  These  fish  constitute  a  principal  article  of  their 
food ;  the  women  drying  them  and  stringing  them  on 
cords.    As  the  uthlecan  is  only  found  in  the  lower  part 


L'  1  "^ 


The 
I  siil)- 
ns  for 
rhuod. 
f  their 
)ly  for 
the  es- 
is,  hut 
e  deer 
nd  elk 
rough, 
vas  al- 
evalent 
or  the 
tity  of 
as  ex- 

0  put 
ards 

iced  — 
le  be- 
mt  six 

and 
mouth 
and  so 

used 
shoals, 
of  five 

with 
ty  will 

1  river 
f  their 
em  on 
ir  part 


3\V: 


ASTORIA 


309 


of  the  river,  the  arr^^•al  of  it  soon  hrouj^ht  hack  the 
natives  to  the  coast;  who  aj^^ain  resorted  to  the  factory 
to  trade,  and  from  that  time  furnished  plentiful  sup- 
plies of  fish. 

The  sturgeon  makes  its  appearance  in  the  river 
shortly  after  the  uthlecan,  and  is  taken  in  different 
ways  by  the  natives:  sometimes  they  spear  it;  hut 
oftener  they  use  the  hook  and  line,  and  the  net.  Oc- 
casionally, they  sink  a  cord  in  the  river  by  a  heavy 
weight,  with  a  bu(^y  at  the  upper  end,  to  keep  it  float- 
ing. To  this  cord  several  hooks  are  attached  by  short 
lines,  a  few  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  baited 
with  small  fish.  This  apparatus  is  often  set  towards 
night,  and  by  the  next  morning  several  sturgeon  will 
be  found  hooked  by  it ;  for  though  a  large  and  strong 
fish,  it  makes  but  little  resistance  when  ensnared. 

The  salmon,  which  are  the  prime  fish  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  as  important  to  the  piscatory  tribes  .as  are  the 
buffaloes  to  the  hunters  of  the  prairies,  do  not  enter 
the  river  until  towards  the  latter  part  of  May,  from 
which  time,  until  the  middle  of  August,  they  abound, 
and  are  taken  in  \ast  quantities,  either  with  the  spear 
or  seine,  and  mostly  in  shallow  water.  An  inferior 
species  succeeds,  and  continues  from  August  to  De- 
cember. It  is  remarkable  for  having  a  double  row  of 
teeth,  half  an  inch  long  and  extremely  sharp,  from 
whence  it  has  received  the  name  of  the  dog-toothed 
salmon.  It  is  generally  killed  with  the  spear  in  small 
rivulets,  and  smoked  for  winter  provision.  We  have 
noticed  in  a  former  chapter  the  mode  in  which  the 
salmon  are  taken  and  cured  at  the  falls  of  the  Colum- 
bia; and  put  up  in  parcels  for  exportation.  From 
these  different  fisheries  of  the  river  tribes,  the  estab- 
lishment at  Astoria  had  to  derive  much  of  its  precari- 
ous supplies  of  provisions. 

A  year's  residence  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
and  various  expeditions  in  the  interior,  had  now  given 


I 


I 


•  II 


3IO 


ASTORIA 


\, '  k'M"^* 


i 


:  41 


M,    I't"' 


the  Astorians  some  idea  of  the  country.  The  whole 
coast  is  described  as  remarkaljly  rugged  and  moun- 
tainous; with  dense  forests  of  hemlock,  spruce,  white 
and  red  cedar,  cotton-wood,  white  oak,  white  and 
swamp  ash,  willow,  and  a  few  walnut.  There  is  like- 
wise an  undergrowth  of  aromatic  shrul)S,  creepers,  and 
clambering  vines,  that  render  the  forests  almost  im- 
penetrable; together  with  berries  of  various  kinds, 
such  as  gooseberries,  strawberries,  raspberries,  both 
red  and  yellow,  very  large  and  finely  flavored  whortle- 
berries, cranberries,  serviceberries,  blackberries,  cur- 
rants, sloes,  and  wild  and  choke  cherries. 

Among  the  flowering  vines  is  one  deserving  of  par- 
ticular notice.  Each  flower  is  composed  of  six  leaves 
or  petals,  about  three  inches  in  length,  of  a  beautiful 
crimson,  the  inside  spotted  with  white.  Its  leaves,  of 
a  fine  green,  are  oval,  and  disposed  by  threes.  This 
plant  climbs  upon  the  trees  without  attaching  itself  to 
them :  when  it  has  reached  the  topmost  branches,  it 
descends  perpendicularly,  and  as  it  continues  to  grow, 
extends  from  tree  to  tree,  until  its  various  stalks  inter- 
lace the  grove  like  the  rigging  of  a  ship.  The  stems 
or  trunks  of  this  vine  are  tougher  and  more  flexible 
than  willow,  and  are  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  fathoms 
in  length.  From  the  fibres,  the  Indians  manufacture 
baskets  of  such  close  texture  as  to  hold  water. 

The  principal  quadrupeds  that  had  been  seen  by  the 
colonists  in  their  various  expeditions  were  the  stag, 
fallow  deer,  hart,  black  and  grizzly  bear,  antelope, 
ahsahta  or  bighorn,  beaver,  sea  and  river  otter,  musk- 
rat,  fox,  wolf,  and  panther,  the  latter  extremely  rare. 
The  only  domestic  animals  among  the  natives  were 
horses  and  dogs. 

The  country  abounded  with  aquatic  and  land  birds, 
such  as  swans,  wild  geese,  brant,  ducks  of  almost 
every  description,  pelicans,  herons,  gulls,  snipes,  cur- 
lews, eagles,  vultures,  crows,  ravens,  magpies,  wood- 


whole 
moun- 

white 
:e  and 
is  like- 
rs,  and 
)st  im- 

kinds, 
i,  both 
hortle- 
s,   cur- 

of  par- 
leaves 
autiful 
ves,  of 
This 
iself  to 
:hes,  it 
grow, 
inter- 
stems 
exible 
tlioms 
acture 

|by  the 
stag, 

|telope, 
musk- 
rare, 
were 

birds, 
dmost 
ciir- 
Iwood- 


ASTORIA 


311 


peckers,  pigeons,  partridges,  pheasants,  grouse,  and  a 
great  variety  of  singing  birds. 

There  were  few  reptiles;  the  only  dangerous  kinds 
were  the  rattlesnake,  and  one  striped  with  black,  yel- 
low, and  white,  about  four  feet  long.  Among  the 
lizard  kind  was  one  about  nine  or  ten  inches  in  length, 
exclusive  of  the  tail,  and  three  inches  in  circumfer- 
ence. The  tail  was  round,  and  of  the  same  length  as 
the  body.  The  head  was  triangular,  covered  with  small 
square  scales.  The  upper  part  of  the  b(xly  was  like- 
wise covered  with  small  scales,  green,  yellow,  black, 
and  blue.  Each  foot  had  five  toes,  furnished  with 
strong  nails,  probably  to  aid  it  in  burrowing,  as  it 
usually  lived  under  ground  on  the  plains. 

A  remarkable  fact,  characteristic  of  the  country  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  the  mildness  and  equability 
of  the  climate.  The  great  mountain  barrier  seems  to 
divide  the  continent  into  different  climates,  even  in 
the  same  degrees  of  latitude.  The  rigorous  winters 
and  sultry  summers,  and  all  the  capricious  inequalities 
of  temperature  prevalent  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the 
mountains,  are  but  little  felt  on  their  western  declivi- 
ties. The  countries  between  them  and  the  Pacific  are 
blessed  with  milder  and  steadier  temperature,  resem- 
bling the  climate  of  parallel  latitudes  in  Europe.  In 
the  plains  and  valleys  but  little  snow  falls  throughout 
the  winter,  and  usually  melts  while  falling.  It  rarely 
lies  on  the  ground  more  than  two  days  at  a  time,  ex- 
cept on  the  summits  of  the  mountains.  The  winters  are 
rainy  rather  than  cold.  The  rains  for  five  months, 
from  the  middle  of  October  to  the  middle  of  March, 
are  almost  incessant,  and  often  accompanied  by  tre- 
mendous thunder  and  lightning.  The  winds  prevalent 
at  this  season  are  from  the  south  and  southeast,  which 
usually  'oring  rain.  Those  from  the  north  to  the  south- 
west ari  tlie  harbingers  of  fair  weather  and  a  clear 
sky.     The  residue  of  the  year,   from  the  middle  of 


t  '■ 


312 


ASTORIA 


'^^1:1  lit' 


Mardi  to  the  middle  of  October,  an  interval  of  seven 
months,  is  serene  and  delightful.  There  is  scarcely 
any  rain  throughout  this  time,  yet  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  kept  fresh  and  verdant  by  nightly  dews,  and  oc- 
casionally by  humid  fogs  in  the  mornings.  These  are 
not  considered  prejudicial  to  health,  since  both  the 
natives  and  the  whites  sleep  in  the  open  air  with  per- 
fect impunity.  While  this  equable  and  bland  tempera- 
ture prevails  throughout  the  lower  country,  the  peaks 
and  ridges  of  the  vast  mountains  by  which  it  is  domi- 
nated, are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  This  renders 
them  discernible  at  a  great  distance,  shining  at  times 
like  bright  summer  clouds,  at  other  times  assuming  the 
most  aerial  tints,  and  always  forming  brilliant  and 
striking  features  in  the  vast  landscape.  The  mild  tem- 
perature prevalent  throughout  the  country  is  attributed 
by  some  to  the  succession  of  winds  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  extending  from  latitude  twenty  degrees  to  at 
least  fifty  degrees  north.  These  temper  the  heat  of 
summer,  so  that  in  the  shade  no  one  is  incommoded 
by  perspiration ;  they  also  soften  the  rigors  of  winter, 
and  produce  such  a  moderation  in  the  climate,  that 
the  inhabitants  can  wear  the  same  dress  throughout 
the  year. 

The  soil  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  sea-coast  is  of 
a  brown  color,  inclining  to  red,  and  generally  poor; 
being  a  mixture  of  clay  and  gravel.  In  the  interior, 
and  especially  in  the  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
the  soil  is  generally  blackish,  though  sometimes  yel- 
low. It  is  frequently  mixed  with  marl,  and  with  marine 
substances  in  a  state  of  decomposition.  This  kinJ  of 
soil  extends  to  a  considerable  depth,  as  may  be  per- 
ceived in  the  deep  cuts  made  by  ravines,  and  by  the 
beds  of  rivers.  The  vegetation  in  these  valleys  is  much 
more  abundant  than  near  the  coast ;  m  fact,  it  is  in 
these  fertile  intervals,  locked  up  between  rocky  sierras, 
or  scooped  out  from  barren  wastes,  that  population 


\^ 


ASTORIA 


313 


^ 


seven 
:arcely 
;  coiin- 
,nd  oc- 
2se  are 
th  the 
th  per- 
mpera- 
;  peaks 
,  domi- 
-enders 
t  times 
ing  the 
nt  and 
Id  tem- 
ribiited 

Pacific 
s  to  at 
heat  of 
imoded 
winter, 
;e,  that 
ughout 

is  of 
poor ; 
iterior. 
mtains. 
es  yel- 
marine 
inv^  of 
)e  per- 
by  the 
5  much 
t  is  in 
uerras, 
Illation 


must  extend  itself,  as  it  were,  in  veins  and  ramifica- 
tions, if  ever  the  regions  beyond  the  mountains  should 
become  civilized. 


CHAPTER  XL 

A  BRIEF  mention  has  already  been  made  of  the  tribes 
or  hordes  existing  about  the  lower  part  of  the  Colum- 
bia at  the  time  of  the  settlement;  a  few  more  par- 
ticulars concerning  them  may  be  acceptable.  The  four 
tribes  nearest  to  Astoria,  and  with  whom  the  traders 
had  most  intercourse,  were,  as  has  heretofore  been 
observed,  the  Chinooks,  the  Clatsops,  the  Wahkiacums, 
and  the  Cathlamets.  The  Chinooks  reside  chiefly  along 
the  banks  of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  running  parallel 
to  the  sea-coast,  through  a  low  country  studded  with 
stngnant  pools,  and  emptying  itself  into  Baker's  Bay, 
a  t<  v  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment.  This  was  the 
f"!  \.  oer  which  Comcomly,  the  one-eyed  chieftain, 
hek.  jway ;  it  boasted  two  hundred  and  fourteen  fight- 
ing men.  Their  chief  subsistence  was  on  fish,  with  an 
occasional  regale  of  the  flesh  of  elk  and  deer,  and  of 
wild-fowl  from  the  neighboring  ponds. 

The  Clatsops  resided  on  both  sides  of  Point  Adams ; 
they  were  the  mere  relics  of  a  tribe  which  had  been 
nearly  swept  off  by  the  small-pox,  and  did  not  num- 
ber more  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  fighting  men. 

I'he  Wahkiacums,  or  Waak-i-cums,  inhabited  the 
north  side  of  the  Columbia,  and  numbered  sixty-six 
warriors.  They  and  the  Chinooks  were  originally  the 
same;  but  a  dispute  arising  about  two  generations 
previous  to  the  time  of  the  settlement,  between  the 
rulinof  chief  and  his  brother  Wahkiacum,  the  latter 
seceded,  and  with  his  adherents  formed  the  present 
horde  which  continues  to  go  by  his  name.     In  this 


I 


I 


ill: 


ill  lli 


'I'J'Mr 


314 


ASTORIA 


^'Hlt 


t<ul 


li 


'mi 


way  new  tribes  or  clans  are  formed,  and  lurking  causes 
of  hostility  engendered. 

The  Cathlamets  lived  opposite  to  the  lower  vil- 
lage of  the  Wahkiacums,  and  numbered  ninety- four 
warriors. 

These  four  tribes,  or  rather  clans,  have  every  ap- 
pearance of  springing  from  the  same  origin,  resembling 
each  other  in  person,  dress,  language,  and  manners. 
They  are  rather  a  diminutive  race,  generally  below  five 
feet  five  inches,  with  crooked  legs  and  thick  ankles  — 
a  deformity  caused  by  their  passing  so  much  of  their 
time  sitting  or  squatting  upon  the  calves  of  their  legs 
and  their  heels,  in  the  bottom  of  their  canoes  —  a 
favorite  position,  which  they  retain,  even  when  on 
shore.  The  women  increase  the  deformity  by  wearing 
tight  bandages  round  the  ankles,  which  prevent  the 
circulation  of  the  blood,  and  causes  a  swelling  of  the 
muscles  of  the  leg. 

Neither  sex  can  boast  of  personal  beauty.  Their 
faces  are  round,  with  small  but  animated  eyes.  Their 
noses  are  broad  and  flat  at  top,  and  fleshy  at  the  end, 
with  large  nostrils.  They  have  wide  mouths,  thick 
lips,  and  short,  irregular  and  dirty  teeth.  Indeed  good 
teeth  are  seldom  to  be  seen  among  the  tribes  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  who  live  chiefly  on  fish. 

In  the  early  stages  of  their  intercourse  with  white 
men,  these  savages  were  but  scantily  clad.  In  summer 
time  the  men  went  entirely  naked;  in  the  winter  and 
in  bad  weather  the  men  wore  a  small  robe,  reaching  to 
the  middle  of  the  thigh,  made  of  the  skins  of  animals, 
or  of  the  wool  of  the  mountain  sheep.  Occasionally, 
they  wore  a  kind  of  mantle  of  matting,  to  keep  off 
the  rain ;  but,  having  thus  protected  the  back  and 
shoulders,  they  left  the  rest  of  the  body  naked. 

The  women  wore  similar  robes,  though  shorter,  not 
reaching  below  the  waist ;  beside  which,  they  had  a 
kind  of  petticoat,  or  fringe,  reaching  from  the  waist 


:auses 

r   vil- 
^-four 

T  ap- 
nbling 
liners, 
►w  five 
des  — 
[  their 
ir  legs 
2S  —  a 
en  on 
earing 
nt  the 
of  the 

Their 
Their 
e  end, 
thick 
[1  good 
est  of 

white 
limmer 

;r  and 
ling  to 
fimals, 

)nally, 
|ep  off 
and 

]r,  not 
Ihad  a 
waist 


ASTORIA 


315 


to  the  knee,  formed  of  the  fibres  of  cedar  bark.  1)roken 
into  strands,  or  a  tissue  of  silk  grass  twisted  and 
knotted  at  the  ends.  This  was  the  usual  dress  of  the 
women  in  summer;  should  the  weather  be  inclement, 
they  added  a  vest  of  skins,  similar  to  the  robe. 

The  men  carefully  eradicated  every  vestige  of  a 
beard,  considering  it  a  great  deformity.  They  looked 
with  disgust  at  the  whiskers  and  well-furnished  chins 
of  the  white  men,  and  in  derision  called  them  Long- 
beards.  Both  sexes,  on  the  other  hand,  cherished  the 
hair  of  the  head,  which  with  them  is  generally  black 
and  rather  coarse.  They  allowed  it  to  grow  to  a  great 
length  and  were  very  proud  and  careful  of  it,  some- 
times wearing  it  plaited,  sometimes  wound  round  the 
head  in  fanciful  tresses.  No  greater  affront  could  be 
offered  to  them  than  to  cut  off  their  treasured  locks. 

They  had  conical  hats  with  narrow  rims,  neatly 
woven  of  bear  grass  or  of  the  fibres  of  cedar  bark,  in- 
terwoven with  designs  of  various  shapes  and  colors ; 
sometimes  merely  squares  and  triangles,  at  other  times 
rude  representations  of  canoes,  with  men  fishing  and 
harpooning.  These  hats  were  nearly  waterproof,  and 
extremely  durable. 

The  favorite  ornaments  of  the  men  were  collars  of 
bears'  claws,  the  proud  trophies  of  hunting  exploits; 
while  the  women  and  children  wore  similar  decorations 
of  elks'  tusks.  An  intercourse  w^ith  the  white  traders, 
however,  soon  effected  a  change  in  the  toilets  of  both 
sexes.  They  became  fond  of  arraying  themselves  in 
any  article  of  civilized  dress  which  they  could  procure, 
and  often  made  a  most  grotesque  appearance.  They 
adapted  many  articles  of  finery,  also,  to  their  own 
previous  tastes.  Both  sexes  were  fond  of  adorning 
themselves  with  bracelets  of  iron,  brass,  or  copper. 
They  were  delighted,  also,  with  blue  and  white  beads, 
particularly  the  former,  and  wore  broad  tight  bands 
of  them  round  the  waist  and  ankles,  large  rolls  of  them 


^r' 


316 


ASTORIA 


n't 

X 

jiinl 

m 

"iiii 

I 
'<  iimP 
J) 


'    31 

'um 
t 

,ll3t 


'am 


! 


■    ft"- 


round  the  neck,  and  pendants  of  them  in  the  ears.  The 
men,  especially,  who  in  savage  Hfe  carry  a  passion  for 
personal  decoration  further  than  the  females,  did  not 
think  their  gala  equipments  complete  unless  they  had  a 
jewel  of  haiqua,  or  wampum,  dangling  at  the  nose. 
Thus  arrayed,  their  hair  besmeared  with  fish  oil,  and 
their  bodies  bedaubed  with  red  clay,  they  considered 
themselves  irresistible. 

When  on  warlike  expeditions,  they  painted  their 
faces  and  bodies  in  the  most  hideous  and  grotesque 
manner,  according  to  the  universal  practice  of  Ameri- 
can savages.  Their  arms  were  bows  and  arrows, 
spears,  and  war-clubs.  Some  wore  a  corselet,  formed 
of  pieces  of  hard  wood,  laced  together  with  bear  grass, 
so  as  to  form  a  light  coat  of  mail,  pliant  to  the  body; 
and  a  kind  of  casque  of  cedar  bark,  leather,  and  bear 
grass,  sufficient  to  protect  the  head  from  an  arrow  or 
war-club.  A  more  complete  article  of  defensive  armor 
was  a  buff  jerkin  or  shirt  of  great  thickness,  made  of 
doublings  of  elk  skin,  and  reaching  to  the  feet,  holes 
being  left  for  the  head  and  arms.  This  was  perfectly 
arrow-proof;  add  to  which,  it  was  often  endowed 
with  charmed  virtues,  by  the  spells  and  mystic  cere- 
monials of  the  medicine  man,  or  conjurer. 

Of  the  peculiar  custom,  prevalent  among  these  peo- 
ple, of  flattening  the  head,  we  have  already  spoken. 
It  is  one  of  those  instances  of  human  caprice,  like  the 
crippling  of  the  feet  of  females  in  China,  which  are 
quite  incomprehensible.  This  custom  prevails  prin- 
cipally among  the  tribes  on  the  sea-coast,  and  about 
the  lower  parts  of  the  rivers.  How  far  it  extends  along 
the  coast  we  are  not  able  to  ascertain.  Some  of  the 
tribes,  both  north  and  south  of  the  Columbia,  practise 
it ;  but  they  all  speak  the  Chinook  language,  and  prob- 
ably originated  from  the  same  stock.  As  far  as  we 
can  learn,  the  remoter  tribes,  which  speak  an  entirely 
different   language,    do   not   flatten   the   head.      This 


1 


I  A 


ASTORIA 


317 


absurd  custom  declines,  also,  in  receding  from  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific ;  few  traces  of  it  are  to  be  found 
among  the  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  after 
crossing  the  mountains  it  disappears  altogether. 
Those  Indians,  therefore,  about  the  head  waters  of  the 
Columbia,  and  in  the  solitary  mountain  regions,  who 
are  often  called  Flatheads,  must  not  be  supposed  to  be 
characterized  by  this  deformity.  It  is  an  appellation 
often  given  by  the  hunters  east  of  the  mountain  chain, 
to  all  the  western  Indians,  excepting  the  Snakes. 

The  religious  belief  )i  these  people  was  extremely 
limited  and  confined ;  or  rather,  in  all  probability, 
their  explanations  were  but  little  understood  by  their 
visitors.  They  had  an  idea  of  a  benevolent  and  omnip- 
otent spirit,  the  creator  of  all  things.  They  represent 
him  as  assuming  various  shapes  at  pleasure,  but  gener- 
ally that  of  an  immense  bird.  He  usually  inhabits  the 
sun,  but  occasionally  wings  his  way  through  the  aerial 
regions,  and  sees  all  that  is  doing  upon  earth.  Should 
anything  displease  him,  he  vents  his  wrath  in  terrific 
storms  and  tempests,  the  lightning  being  the  flashes 
of  his  eyes,  and  the  thunder  the  clapping  of  his  wings. 
To  propitiate  his  favor  they  offer  to  him  annual  sacri- 
fices of  salmon  and  venison,  the  first  fruits  of  their 
fishing  and  hunting. 

Beside  this  aerial  spirit  they  believe  in  an  inferior 
one,  who  inhabits  the  fire,  and  of  whom  they  are  in 
perpetual  dread,  as,  though  he  possesses  equally  the 
power  of  good  and  evil,  the  evil  is  apt  to  predominate. 
They  endeavor,  therefore,  to  keep  him  in  good-humor 
by  frequent  offerings.  He  is  supposed  also  to  have 
gre  influence  with  the  winged  spirit,  their  sovereign 
protector  and  benefactor.  They  implore  him,  there- 
fore, to  act  as  their  interpreter,  and  procure  them 
all  desirable  things,  such  as  success  in  fishing  and 
hunting,  abundance  of  game,  fleet  horses,  obedient 
wives,  and  male  children. 


I        > 


I 


3i8 


ASTORIA 


% 


il. 


'"sm 


r-sBi 


•^ 


I 

» 

J. 

i 
f 


I 


I 

I 


These  Indians  have  likewise  their  priests,  or  con- 
jurers, or  medicine  men,  who  pretend  to  be  in  the  con- 
fidence of  the  deities,  and  the  expounders  and  en- 
forcers of  their  will.  Each  of  these  medicine  men  has 
his  idols  carved  in  wood,  representing  the  spirits  of 
the  air  and  of  the  fire,  under  some  rude  and  grotesque 
form  of  a  horse,  a  bear,  a  beaver,  or  other  quadruped, 
or  that  of  bird  or  fish.  These  idols  are  hung  round 
with  amulets  and  votive  offerings,  such  as  beavers' 
teeth,  and  bears'  and  eagles'  claws. 

When  any  chief  personage  is  on  his  death-bed,  or 
dangerously  ill,  the  medicine  men  are  sent  for.  Each 
brings  with  him  his  idols,  with  which  he  retires  into  a 
canoe  to  hold  a  consultation.  As  doctors  are  prone 
to  disagree,  so  these  medicine  men  have  now  and  then 
a  violent  altercation  as  to  the  malady  of  the  patient,  or 
the  treatment  of  it.  To  settle  this  they  beat  their  idols 
soundly  against  each  other;  whichever  first  loses  a 
tooth  or  a  claw  is  considered  as  confuted,  and  his 
votary  retires  from  the  field. 

Polygamy  is  not  only  allowed,  but  considered  honor- 
able, and  the  greater  number  of  wives  a  man  can  main- 
tain, the  more  important  is  he  in  the  eyes  of  the  tribe. 
The  first  wife,  however,  takes  rank  of  all  the  others, 
and  is  considered  mistress  of  the  house.  Still  the  do- 
mestic establishment  is  liable  to  jealousies  and  cabals, 
and  the  lord  and  master  has  much  difficulty  in  main- 
taining harmony  in  his  jangling  household. 

In  the  manuscript  from  which  we  draw  many  of 
these  particulars,  it  is  stated  that  he  who  exceeds  his 
neighbors  in  the  number  of  his  wives,  male  children, 
and  slaves,  is  elected  chief  of  the  village ;  a  title  to 
office  which  we  do  not  recollect  ever  before  to  have 
met  with. 

Feuds  are  frequent  among  these  tribes,  but  are  not 
very  deadly.  They  have  occasionally  pitched  battles, 
fought  on  appointed  days,  and  at  specific  places,  which 


ASTORIA 


319 


ly  of 
lis  his 

Idren, 

:le  to 

have 

not 
ittles, 
4iich 


are  generally  the  banks  of  a  rivulet.  The  adverse  par- 
ties post  themselves  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  stream, 
and  at  such  distances  that  the  battles  often  last  a  long- 
while  before  any  blood  is  shed.  The  number  of  killed 
and  wounded  seldom  exceed  half  a  dozen.  Should  the 
damage  be  equal  on  each  side,  the  war  is  considered 
as  honorably  concluded;  should  one  party  lose  more 
than  the  other,  it  is  entitled  to  a  compensation  in  slaves 
or  other  property,  otherwise  hostilities  are  liable  to  be 
renewed  at  a  future  day.  They  are  much  given  also  to 
predatory  inroads  into  the  territories  of  their  enemies, 
and  sometimes  of  their  friendly  neighbors.  Should 
they  fall  upon  a  band  of  inferior  force,  or  upon  a  vil- 
lage, weakly  defended,  they  act  with  the  ferocity  of 
true  poltroons,  slaying  all  the  men,  and  carrying  off  the 
women  and  children  as  slaves.  As  to  the  property,  it 
is  packed  upon  horses  which  they  bring  with  them  for 
the  purpose.  They  are  mean  and  paltry  as  warriors, 
and  altogether  inferior  in  heroic  qualities  to  the  savages 
of  the  buffalo  plains  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains. 

A  great  portion  of  their  time  is  passed  in  revelry, 
music,  dancing,  and  gambling.  Their  music  scarcely 
deserves  the  name;  the  instruments  being  of  the 
rudest  kind.  Their  singing  is  harsh  and  discordant ; 
the  songs  are  chiefly  extempore,  relating  to  passing  cir- 
cumstances, the  persons  present,  or  any  trifling  ol)ject 
that  strikes  the  attention  of  the  singer.  They  have 
several  kinds  of  dances,  some  of  them  lively  and  pleas- 
ing. The  women  are  rarely  permitted  to  dance  with  the 
men,  but  form  groups  apart,  dancing  to  the  same  in- 
strument and  song. 

They  have  a  great  passion  for  play,  and  a  variety  of 
games.  To  such  a  pitch  of  excitement  are  they  some- 
times roused,  that  they  gamble  away  everything  they 
possess,  even  to  their  wives  and  children.  They  are 
notorious  thieves,  also,  and  proud  of  their  dexterity. 
He  who  is  frequently  successful,  gains  much  applause 


In'    ■ 


320 


ASTORIA 


r1 


m 


'4 
:f!: 


"^Sll 


«TI» 


7 


and  popularity ;  but  the  clumsy  thief,  who  is  detected 
in  some  bung-ling  attempt,  is  scoffed  at  and  despised, 
and  sometimes  severely  punished. 

Such  are  a  few  leading  characteristics  of  the  natives 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Astoria.  They  appear  to  us  in- 
ferior in  many  respects  to  the  tribes  east  of  the  moun- 
tains, the  bold  rovers  of  the  prairies ;  and  to  partake 
much  of  the  Esquimaux  character;  elevated  in  some 
degree  by  a  more  genial  climate,  and  more  varied  style 
of  living. 

The  habits  of  traffic  engendered  at  the  cataracts  of 
the  Columbia,  have  had  their  influence  along  the  coast. 
The  Chinooks  and  other  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  soon  proved  themselves  keen  traders,  and  in  their 
early  dealings  with  the  Astorians  never  hesitated  to  ask 
three  times  what  they  considered  the  real  value  of  an 
article.  They  were  inquisitive,  also,  in  the  extreme, 
and  impertinently  intrusive ;  and  were  prone  to  in- 
dulge in  scoffing  and  ridicule  at  the  expense  of  the 
strangers. 

In  one  thing,  however,  they  showed  superior  judg- 
ment and  self-command  to  most  of  their  race ;  this  was, 
in  their  abstinence  from  ardent  spirits,  and  the  abhor- 
rence and  disgust  with  which  they  regarded  a  drunk- 
ard. On  one  occasion,  a  son  of  Comcomly  had  been 
induced  to  drink  freely  at  the  factory,  and  went  home 
in  a  state  of  intoxication,  playing  all  kinds  of  mad 
pranks,  until  he  sank  into  a  stupor,  in  which  he  re- 
mained for  two  days.  The  old  chieftain  repaired  to 
his  friend,  M'Dougal,  with  indignation  flaming  in  his 
countenance,  and  bitterly  reproached  him  for  having 
permitted  his  son  to  degrade  himself  into  a  beast,  and 
to  render  himself  an  object  of  scorn  and  laughter  to 
his  slave. 


ASTORIA 


321 


tected 
pised, 

atives 
us  in- 
noun- 
artake 
some 
1  style 

cts  of 
coast, 
of  the 
1  their 
to  ask 
of  an 
treme, 
to  in- 
bf  the 

judg- 
was, 
3hor- 
r  link- 
been 
home 
mad 
le  re- 
ed to 
in  his 
laving 
t,  and 
ter  to 


CHAPTER  XLI 

As  the  spring  opened,  tlie  httle  settlement  of  Astoria 
was  in  agitation,  and  prepared  to  send  forth  various 
expeditions.  Several  important  things  were  to  be  done. 
It  was  necessary  to  send  a  supply  of  goods  to  the  trad- 
ing post  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  established  in  the  pre- 
ceding autumn  on  the  Oakinagan.  The  cache,  or  secret 
deposit,  made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Caldron  Linn,  was 
likewise  to  be  visited,  and  the  merchandise  and  other 
effects  left  there,  to  be  brought  to  Astoria.  A  third 
object  of  moment  was  to  send  dispatches  overland  to 
Mr.  Astor  at  New  YorK,  informing  him  of  the  state 
of  affairs  at  the  settlement,  and  the  fortunes  of  the 
several  expeditions. 

The  task  of  carrying  supplies  to  Oakinagan  was  as- 
signed to  Mr.  Robert  Stuart,  a  spirited  and  enterpris- 
ing young  man,  nephew  to  the  one  who  had  estrblished 
the  post.  The  cache  was  to  be  sought  out  by  two 
of  the  clerks,  named  Russell  Farnham  and  Donald 
M'Gilles,  conducted  by  a  guide,  and  accompanied 
by  eight  men,  to  assist  in  bringing  home  the  goods. 

As  to  the  dispatches,  they  were  confided  to  Air.  John 
Reed,  the  clerk,  the  same  who  had  conducted  one  of 
the  exploring  detachments  of  Snake  River.  He  was 
now  to  trace  back  his  way  across  the  mountains  by  the 
same  route  by  which  he  had  come,  with  no  other  com- 
panions or  escort  than  Ben  Jones,  the  Kentucky 
hunter,  and  two  Canadians.  As  it  was  still  hoped  that 
Mr.  Crooks  might  be  in  existence,  and  that  Mr.  Reed 
and  his  party  might  meet  with  him  in  the  course  of 
their  route,  they  were  charged  with  a  small  supply  of 
goods  and  provisions,  to  aid  that  gentleman  on  his 
way  to  Astoria. 

When  the  expedition  of  Reed  was  made  known,  Mr. 
M'Lellan  announced  his  determination  to  accompany 


I        1 1 


;l 


21 


Itr 


f:^      i 


2,22 


ASTORIA 


m 


■1 
.■•l> 
f 


r 


ITW 


Ml-' 


it.  lie  had  long  been  dissatisfied  with  the  smalhiess 
of  his  interest  in  the  eopartnership,  and  had  recjuested 
an  adchtional  number  of  shares ;  his  rctjuest  not  being 
conii)licd  with,  he  resolved  to  abandon  the  company. 
M'Lellan  was  a  man  of  a  singularly  self-willed  and  de- 
cided character,  with  whom  persuasion  was  useless; 
he  was  permitted,  therefore,  to  take  his  own  course 
without  opposition. 

As  to  Reed,  he  set  about  preparing  for  his  hazardous 
journey  with  the  zeal  of  a  true  Irishman.  He  had  a 
tin  case  made,  in  which  the  letters  and  papers  addressed 
to  Mr.  Astor  were  carefully  soldered  up.  This  case 
he  intended  to  strap  upon  his  shoulders,  so  as  to  bear 
it  about  with  him,  sleeping  and  waking,  in  all  changes 
and  chances,  by  land  or  by  water,  and  never  to  part 
with  it  but  with  his  life! 

As  the  route  of  these  several  parties  would  be  the 
same  for  nearly  four  hundred  miles  up  the  Columbia, 
and  within  that  distance  would  lie  through  the  piratical 
pass  of  the  rapids,  and  among  the  freebooting  tribes 
of  the  river,  it  was  thought  advisable  to  start  about  the 
same  time,  and  to  keep  together.  Accordingly,  on  the 
22d  of  March,  they  all  set  off,  to  the  number  of  seven- 
teen men,  in  two  canoes  —  and  here  we  cannot  but 
pause  to  notice  the  hardihood  of  these  several  expedi- 
tions, so  insignificant  in  point  of  force,  and  severally 
destined  to  traverse  immense  wildernesses,  where 
larger  parties  had  experienced  so  much  danger  and  dis- 
tress. When  recruits  were  sought  in  the  preceding 
year  among  experienced  hunters  and  voyageurs  at 
Montreal  and  St.  Louis,  it  was  considered  dangerous 
to  attempt  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  with  less  than 
sixty  men ;  and  yet  here  we  find  Reed  ready  to  push 
his  way  across  those  barriers  with  merely  three  com- 
panions. Such  is  the  fearlessness,  the  insensibility  to 
danger,  which  men  acquire  by  the  habitude  of  constant 
risk.  The  mind,  like  the  body,  becomes  callous  by 
exposure. 


ASTORIA 


323 


The  little  associated  hand  proceeded  up  the  river, 
under  the  coniniand  of  Mr.  Rohert  Stuart,  and  arrived 
early  in  the  month  of  April  at  the  Long"  Narrows,  that 
notorious  plunderiniT;'  i)lace.  Here  it  was  necessary  to 
unload  the  canoes,  and  to  transport  hoth  them  and 
their  cargoes  to  the  head  of  the  Narrows  hy  land. 
Their  party  was  too  few  in  numher  for  the  puri)()se. 
They  were  ohli^q-ed.  therefore,  to  seek  the  assistance  of 
the  Cathlasco  Indians,  who  undertook  to  carry  the 
goods  on  their  horses.  Forward  then  they  set,  the  In- 
dians with  their  horses  well  freighted,  and  the  first 
load  convoyed  by  Reed  and  five  men,  wrM  armed ;  the 
gallant  Irisliman  striding  along  at  the  l;oa..'i,  A^'ith  his 
tin  case  of  dispatches  gliuering  on  his  bfick,  In  pass- 
ing, however,  through  a  rocky  an  J  inricate  defile, 
some  of  the  freebooting  vagrants  turned  their  horses 
up  a  narrow  path  and  galloped  of/,  carryin,^  widi  t'lem 
two  bales  of  goods,  and  a  nu!:i1>er  of  smaller  ;.f  tides. 
To  follow  them  was  usele?'' ;  nirlce:!,  it  was  with  \uucb 
ado  that  the  convoy  got  into  p';rt  wii';  die  resilr^'  of 
the  cargoes;  for  some  of  the  guards  u'er^'  i>i!ki;.;;ed  of 
their  knives  and  pocket  handl.'<.;i'chiV:fs,  and  the  lus- 
trous tin  case  of  j\Ir.  John  Reed  was  in  fniminept 
jeopardy. 

Mr.  Stuart  heard  of  these  denrcdatlons,  and  has- 
tened forward  to  the  relief  of  tlie  convoy,  but  could 
not  reach  them  before  dusk,  by  wdiich  time  they  had  ci."- 
rived  at  the  village  of  Wish-ram,  already  noted  for  'ts 
great  fishery,  and  the  knavisli  propcns^'^'es  of  its  in- 
habitants. Here  they  found  themselves  benighted  in 
a  strange  place,  and  surrou.if'icd  by  sav.ges  bent  on 
pilfering,  if  not  upon  open  rj))bery.  Not  knowing 
what  active  course  to  tak-:",  they  rerna^ined  under  arms 
all  night,  without  clo^ir  sj  an  eye,  and  at  the  very  first 
peep  of  dawn,  v.'ien  objects  were  yet  scarce  visible, 
everything  was  hastily  embarked,  and,  without  seek- 
ing to  recover  the  stolen  effects,  they  pushed  off  from 


i^- 


m 

4$ 

:% 

„;r«J 


i 


324 


ASTORIA 


shore,  "  glad  to  bid  adieu,"  as  they  said,  *'  to  this 
abominable  nest  of  miscreants." 

The  worthies  of  Wish-ram,  however,  were  not  dis- 
posed to  part  so  easily  with  their  visitors.  Their 
cupidity  had  been  quickened  by  the  plunder  which  they 
had  already  taken,  and  their  confidence  increased  by  the 
impunity  with  which  their  outrage  had  passed.  They 
resolved,  therefore,  to  take  further  toll  of  the  travel- 
lers, and,  if  possible,  to  capture  the  tin  case  of  dis- 
patches; w^hich  shining  conspicuously  from  afar,  and 
being  guarded  by  John  Reed  with  such  especial  care, 
must,  as  they  su]:)posed,  be  "  a  great  medicine." 

Accordingly,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades  had  not 
proceeded  far  in  the  canoes,  when  they  beheld  the  whole 
rabble  of  Wish-ram  stringing  in  groups  along  the 
bank,  whooping  and  yelling,  and  gibbering  in  their 
wild  jargon,  and  when  they  landed  below  the  falls, 
they  were  surrounded  by  upwards  of  four  hundred  of 
these  river  ruffians,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  war- 
clubs,  and  other  sa\'age  weapons.  These  now  pressed 
forward,  with  offers  to  carry  the  canoes  and  effects 
up  the  portage.  Mr.  Stuart  declined  forwarding  the 
goods,  alleging  the  lateness  of  the  hour ;  but,  to  keep 
them  in  good-humor,  informed  them,  that,  if  they  con- 
ducted themselves  well,  their  offered  services  might 
probably  be  accepted  in  the  morning;  in  the  meanwhile, 
he  suggested  that  they  might  carry  up  the  canoes. 
They  accordingly  set  off  with  the  two  canoes  on  their 
shoulders,  accompanied  by  a  guard  of  eight  men  well 
armed. 

When  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  the  mischiev- 
ous spirit  of  the  savages  broke  out,  and  they  were  on 
the  point  of  destroying  the  canoes,  doubtless  with  a 
view  to  impede  the  white  men  from  carrying  forward 
their  goods,  and  laying  them  open  to  further  pilfering. 
They  were  with  S(^me  difficulty  prevented  from  com- 
mitting this  outrage  by  the  interference  of  an  old  man, 


iiev- 
on 
th  a 
^ard 
|ing. 
|om- 
lan, 


ASTORIA 


325 


who  appeared  to  have  authority  among  them ;  and,  in 
consequence  of  his  harangue,  the  whole  of  the  hostile 
band,  with  the  exception  of  about  fifty,  crossed  to  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  where  they  lay  in  wait,  ready 
for  further  mischief. 

In  the  meantime,  ?^Ir.  Stuart,  who  had  remained  at 
the  foot  of  the  falls  with  the  goods,  and  who  knew  that 
the  proffered  assistance  of  the  savages  was  only  for 
the  purpose  of  having  an  opportunity  to  plunder,  de- 
termined, if  possible,  to  steal  a  march  upon  them,  and 
defeat  their  machinations.  In  the  dead  of  the  night, 
therefore,  about  one  o'clock,  the  moon  shining  brightly, 
he  roused  his  party,  and  proposed  that  they  should  en- 
deavor to  transport  tlie  goods  themselves,  above  the 
falls,  before  the  sleeping  savages  could  be  aware  of 
their  operations.  All  hands  sprang  to  the  work  with 
zeal,  and  hurried  it  on  in  the  hope  of  getting  all  over 
before  daylight.  Mr.  Stuart  went  forward  with  the 
first  loads,  and  took  his  station  at  the  head  of  the  por- 
tage, while  Mr.  Reed  and  Mr.  M'Lellan  remained  at 
the  foot  to  forward  the  remainder. 

The  day  dawned  before  the  transportation  was  com- 
pleted. Some  of  the  fifty  Indians  who  had  remained 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  perceived  what  was 
going  on,  and,  feeling  themselves  too  weak  for  an 
attack,  gave  the  alarm  to  those  on  the  opposite  side, 
upwards  of  a  hundred  of  whom  embarked  in  several 
large  canoes.  Two  loads  of  goods  yet  remained  to  be 
brought  up.  Mr.  Stuart  dispatched  some  of  the  people 
for  one  c^f  the  loads,  with  a  request  to  Mr.  Reed  to  re- 
tain with  him  as  many  of  the  men  as  he  thought  neces- 
sary to  guard  the  remaining  load,  as  he  suspected  hos- 
tile intentions  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Mr.  Reed, 
however,  refused  to  retain  any  of  them,  saying  that 
M'Lellan  and  himself  were  sufficient  to  protect  the 
small  quantity  that  remained.  The  men  accordingly 
departed  with  the  load,  while  Reed  and  MT.ellan  con- 


/ 


'■         '! 


'1  ;: 


ill 


Ml 


S26 


ASTORIA 


* 


n  I 


^'4 

In 


11!! 


I 


'am 


tinned  to  mount  guard  over  the  residue.  By  this  time, 
a  number  of  the  canoes  had  arrived  from  the  opposite 
side.  As  they  approached  the  shore,  the  unhicky  tin 
box  of  John  Reed,  shining  afar  Hke  the  brilhant  hel- 
met of  Euryahis,  caught  their  eyes.  No  sooner  did 
the  canoes  touch  the  shore,  than  they  leaped  forward 
on  the  rocks,  set  up  a  war-whoop,  and  sprang  forward 
to  secure  the  glittering  prize.  Mr.  M'Lellan,  who  was 
at  the  river  bank,  advanced  to  guard  the  goods,  when 
one  of  the  savages  attempted  to  hoodwink  him  with  his 
buffalo  robe  with  one  hand,  and  to  stab  him  with  the 
other.  M'Lellan  sprang  back  just  far  enough  to 
avoid  the  blow,  and  raising  his  rifle,  shot  the  ruffian 
through  the  heart. 

In  the  meantime,  Reed,  who  with  the  want  of  fore- 
thought of  an  Irishman,  had  neglected  to  remove  the 
leathern  cover  from  the  lock  of  his  rifle,  was  fumbling 
at  the  fastenings,  when  he  received  a  blow  on  the  head 
with  a  war-club  that  laid  him  senseless  on  the  ground. 
In  a  twinkling  he  was  stripped  of  his  rifle  and  pistols, 
and  the  tin  box,  the  cause  of  all  this  onslaught,  was 
borne  off  in  triumph. 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Mr.  Stuart,  who  had  iieard 
the  war-whoop,  hastened  to  the  scene  of  action  with 
Ben  Jones,  and  seven  others  of  the  men.  When  he  ar- 
rived. Reed  was  weltering  in  his  blood,  and  an  Indian 
standing  over  him  and  about  to  dispatch  him  with  a 
tomahawk.  Stuart  gave  the  word,  when  Ben  Jones 
levelled  his  rifle,  and  shot  the  miscreant  on  the  spot. 
The  men  then  gave  a  cheer,  and  charged  upon  the 
main  body  of  the  savages,  who  took  to  instant  flight. 
Reed  was  now  raised  from  the  ground,  and  borne  sense- 
less and  bleeding  to  the  upper  end  of  the  portage. 
Preparations  were  made  to  launch  tlie  canoes  and  em- 
bnrk  in  all  haste,  when  it  was  found  that  they  were  too 
leaky  to  be  put  in  the  water,  and  that  the  oars  had 
been  left  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.    A  scene  of  confusion 


ASTORIA 


zv 


w 


iiearcl 
with 

le  ar- 

ndian 
ith  a 
ones 
spot. 
1  the 

Plight. 

sense- 

rtage. 
1  em- 

-e  too 
had 
usion 


s 


now  ensued.  The  Indians  were  whooping  and  yelHng, 
and  running  a1)OUt  hke  fiends.  A  panic  seized  upon 
the  men,  at  heing  thus  suddenly  checked,  the  hearts 
of  some  of  the  CanacHans  died  within  them,  and  two 
young  men  actuahy  fainted  away.  The  moment  they 
recovered  their  senses,  ]\Ir.  Stuart  ordered  that  they 
should  he  deprived  of  their  a  nis,  their  under  garments 
taken  off,  and  that  a  piece  of  Cioth  should  be  tied  round 
their  waists,  in  imitation  of  a  squaw ;  an  Indian  pun- 
ishment for  cowardice.  Thus  equipped,  they  were 
stowed  away  among  tl"^  goods  in  one  of  the  canoes. 
This  ludicrous  affair  excited  the  mirth  of  the  bolder 
spirits,  even  in  the  midst  of  their  perils,  and  roused  the 
pride  of  the  wavering.  The  Indians  having  crossed 
back  again  to  the  north  side,  order  was  restored,  S(Mue 
of  the  hands  were  sent  back  for  the  oars,  others  set 
to  work  to  calk  and  launch  the  canoes,  and  in  a  little 
while  all  were  embarked  and  were  continuing  their 
voyage  along  the  southern  shore. 

No  sooner  had  they  departed,  than  the  Indians  re- 
turned to  the  scene  of  action,  bore  off  their  two  com- 
rades who  had  been  shot,  one  of  whom  was  still  living, 
and  returned  to  their  village.  Here  they  killed  two 
horses ;  and  drank  the  hot  blood  to  give  fierceness  to 
their  courage.  They  painted  and  arrayed  themselves 
hideously  for  battle;  performed  the  dead  dance  round 
the  slain,  and  raised  the  war  song  of  vengeance.  Then 
mounting  their  horses,  to  the  number  of  four  hundred 
and  fifty  men,  and  brandishing  their  weapons,  they  set 
off  along  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  to  get  ahead 
of  the  canoes,  lie  in  wait  for  them,  and  take  a  terrible 
revenge  on  the  white  men. 

They  succeeded  in  getting  some  distance  above  the 
canoes  without  being  discovered,  and  were  crossing 
the  river  to  post  themselves  on  the  side  along  which 
the  white  men  were  coasting,  when  they  were  fortu- 
nately descried.     IMr.  Stuart  and  his  companions  were 


328 


ASTORIA 


!t 


m 

IliS 


::','IJ| 


1-:^^ 


immediately  on  the  alert.  As  they  drew  near  to  the 
place  where  the  savages  had  crossed,  they  observed 
them  posted  among  steep  and  overhanging  rocks, 
close  along  which,  the  canoes  would  have  to  pass. 
Finding  that  the  enemy  had  the  advantage  of  the 
ground,  the  whites  stopped  short  when  within  five 
hundred  yards  of  them,  and  discharged  and  reloaded 
their  pieces.  They  then  made  a  fire,  and  dressed  the 
wounds  of  Mr.  Reed,  who  had  received  fi\e  severe 
gashes  in  the  head.  This  being  done,  they  lashed  the 
canoes  together,  fastened  them  to  a  rock  at  a  small 
distance  from  the  shore,  and  there  awaited  the  menaced 
attack. 

They  had  not  been  long  posted  in  this  manner,  when 
they  saw  a  canoe  approaching.  It  contained  the  war- 
chief  of  the  tribe,  and  three  of  his  principal  warriors. 
He  drew  near,  and  made  a  long  harangue,  in  whic:  he 
informed  them  that  they  had  killed  one  and  wounded 
another  of  his  nation ;  that  the  relations  of  the  slain 
cried  out  for  vengeance,  and  he  had  been  compelled  to 
lead  them  to  fight.  Still  he  wished  to  spare  unnecessary 
bloodshed ;  he  proposed,  theref(^re.  that  Air.  Reed, 
who,  he  observed,  was  little  better  than  a  dead  man, 
might  be  given  up  to  be  sacrificed  to  the  manes  of  the 
deceased  warrior.  This  would  appease  the  fury  of  his 
friends ;  the  hatchet  would  then  be  buried,  and  all 
thence  forward  would  be  friends.  The  answer  was  a 
stern  refusal  and  a  defiance,  and  the  war-chief  saw  that 
the  canoes  were  well  prepared  for  a  vigorous  defence. 
He  withdrew,  therefore,  and  returning  to  his  warriors 
among  the  rocks  held  long  deliberations.  Blood  for 
blood  is  a  princi])le  in  Indian  equity  and  Indian  honor; 
but  though  the  inhabitants  of  Wish-ram  were  men  of 
war,  they  were  likewise  men  of  traffic,  and  it  was  sug- 
gested that  honor  for  once  might  give  way  to  profit. 
A  negotiation  was  accordingly  opened  with  the  white 
men,  and  after  some  diplomacy,  the  matter  was  com- 


ASTORIA 


329 


promised  for  a  blanket  to  cover  the  dead,  and  some 
tobacco  to  be  smoked  by  the  hving.  Tliis  being 
granted,  the  heroes  of  Wish-ram  crossed  the  river  once 
more,  returned  to  their  villages  to  feast  upon  the  horses 
whose  blood  they  had  so  vaingloriously  drunk,  and 
the  travellers  pursued  their  voyage  without  further 
molestation. 

The  tin  case,  however,  containing  the  important  dis- 
patches for  New  York,  was  irretrievably  lost ;  the  very 
precaution  taken  by  the  worthy  Hibernian  to  secure  his 
missives,  had,  by  rendering  them  conspicuous,  pro- 
duced their  robbery.  The  object  of  his  overland  jour- 
ney, therefore,  being  defeated,  he  gave  up  the  expedi- 
tion. The  whole  party  repaired  with  Mr.  Robert  Stuart 
to  the  establishment  of  Mr.  David  Stuart,  on  the 
Oakinagan  River.  yXfter  remaining  here  two  or  three 
clays,  they  all  set  out  on  their  return  to  Astoria,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  David  Stuart.  This  gentleman  had  a 
large  quantity  of  beaver  skins  at  his  establishment,  but 
did  not  think  it  prudent  to  take  them  with  him,  fearing 
the  levy  of  "  black  mail  "  at  the  falls. 

On  their  way  down,  when  below  the  forks  of  the 
Columbia,  they  were  hailed  one  day  from  the  shore  in 
English.  Looking  around,  they  descried  two  wretched 
men,  entirely  naked.  They  pulled  to  shore ;  the  men 
came  up  and  made  themselves  known.  They  proved 
to  l)e  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  faithful  follower,  John  Day. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that  Mr.  Crooks,  with  Day 
and  four  Canadians,  had  been  so  reduced  by  famine 
and  fatigue,  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  to  leave  them, 
in  the  month  of  December,  on  the  banks  of  tlie  Snake 
River.  Their  situation  was  the  more  critical,  as  they 
were  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  band  of  Shoshonies, 
whose  horses  had  been  forcibly  seized  by  Mr.  Hunt's 
party  for  provisions.  Mr.  Crooks  remained  here 
twenty  days,  detained  by  the  extremely  reduced  state 
of  John  Day,  who  was  utterly  unable  to  travel,  and 


1 

H 

p  ';< 

'■-  ■■'1 

i(f' 

f 

'■  "'  •  i 

,  .\ 

V 

'\ 

330 


ASTORIA 


»:' 


*:S( 


i; 


■1.' 


i 


■m 


.'^imA 


a  «]  ( 


•  .4.1 


j;;; 


whom  he  would  not  abandon,  as  Day  had  been  in  his 
employ  on  the  Missouri,  and  had  always  proved  him- 
self most  faithful.  Fortunately  the  Shoshonies  did  not 
offer  to  molest  them.  They  had  never  before  seen 
white  men,  and  seemed  to  entertain  some  su])erstitions 
with  regard  to  them,  for  though  they  would  encamp 
near  them  in  the  daytime,  they  would  move  off  with 
their  tents  in  the  night ;  and  finally  disappeared,  with- 
out taking  leave. 

When  Day  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  travel,  they 
kept  feebly  on,  sustaining  themselves  as  well  as  they 
could,  until  in  the  month  of  b^bruary,  when  three  of 
the  Canadians,  fearful  of  perishing  with  want,  left 
Mr.  Crooks  on  a  small  river,  on  the  road  by  which  Mr. 
Hunt  had  passed  in  quest  of  Indians.  Mr.  Crooks  fol- 
lowed Mr.  Hunt's  track  in  the  snow  for  several  days, 
sleeping  as  usual  in  the  open  air,  and  suffering  all  kinds 
of  hardships.  At  length,  coming  to  a  low  prairie,  he 
lost  every  appearance  of  the  "  trail."  and  wandered 
during  the  remainder  of  the  winter  in  the  mountains, 
subsisting  sometimes  on  horse  meat,  sometimes  on 
beavers  and  their  skins,  and  a  part  of  the  time  on  roots. 

About  the  last  of  March,  the  other  Canadian  gave 
out  and  was  left  with  a  lodge  of  Shoshonies ;  but  Mr. 
Crooks  and  John  Day  still  kept  on,  and  finding  the 
snow  sufficiently  diminished,  undertook,  from  Indian 
information,  to  cross  the  last  mountain  ridge.  They 
happily  succeeded,  and  afterwards  fell  in  with  the 
Wallah-Wallahs,  a  tribe  of  Indians  inhabiting  the 
banks  of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  and  reputed  as 
being  frank,  hospitable,  and  sincere.  They  proved 
w^orthy  of  the  character,  for  they  received  the  poor 
wanderers  kindly,  killed  a  horse  for  them  to  eat.  and 
directed  them  on  their  way  to  the  Columbia.  They 
struck  the  river  about  the  middle  of  April,  and  ad- 
vanced down  it  one  hundred  miles,  until  they  came 
within  about  twenty  miles  of  the  falls. 


ASTORIA 


33^ 


Here  they  met  with  some  of  the  "  chivalry  "  of  that 
noted  pass,  who  received  tliem  in  a  friendly  way,  and 
set  food  before  them;  hut,  while  they  were  satisfying 
their  hunger,  perfidiously  seized  their  rilies.  They 
then  stripped  them  naked,  and  drove  them  off,  refus- 
ing the  entreaties  of  Mr.  Crooks  for  a  fiint  and  ileel 
of  which  they  had  robbed  him ;  and  threatening  his 
life  if  he  did  not  instantly  depart. 

In  this  forlorn  plight,  still  worse  off  than  before, 
they  renewed  their  wanderings.  They  now  sought  to 
find  their  way  back  to  the  hospitable  Wallah-Wallahs, 
and  had  advanced  eighty  miles  along  the  river,  when 
fortunately,  on  the  very  morning  that  they  were  going 
to  leave  the  Columbia  and  strike  inland,  the  canoes  of 
Mr.  Stuart  hove  in  sight. 

It  is  needless  to  describe  the  joy  of  these  poor  men 
at  once  more  finding  themselves  among  countrymen 
and  friends,  or  of  the  honest  and  hearty  welcome  with 
which  they  were  received  by  their  fellow  adventurers. 
The  whole  party  now  continued  down  the  river,  passed 
all  the  dangerous  places  without  interruption,  and  ar- 
rived safely  at  Astoria  on  the  nth  of  May, 


CHAPTER  XLII 


the 
ed  as 
"oved 
poor 
.  and 
They 
id  ad- 
came 


Having  traced  the  fortunes  of  the  two  expeditions  by 
sea  and  land  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  pre- 
sented a  view  of  affairs  at  Astoria,  we  will  return  for  a 
moment  to  the  master  spirit  of  the  enterprise,  who 
regulated  the  springs  of  Astoria,  at  his  residence  in 
New  York. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  a  part  of  the  plan  of  Mr. 
Astor  was  to  furnish  the  Russian  fur  establishment  on 
the  northwest  coast  with  regular  supplies,  so  as  to 
render  it  independent  of  those  casual  vessels  which  cut 
up  the  trade  and  supplied  the  natives  with  arms.    This 


2>Z^ 


ASTORIA 


r 


m 


a 


i'9> 

("Hi 


■M 


^3) 


89 


-1 

4 


1 


plan  had  been  countenanced  by  onr  own  government, 
and  likewise  by  Count  Pahlen,  the  Russian  minister  at 
Washington,  As  its  views,  however,  were  important 
and  extensive,  and  might  eventually  affect  a  wide 
course  of  commerce,  Mr.  Astor  was  desirous  of  estab- 
lishing a  cdmplete  arrangement  on  the  subject  with  the 
Russian  American  Fur  Company,  under  the  sanction 
of  the  Russian  government.  For  this  purpose,  in 
March,  i8ii,  he  dispatched  a  confidential  agent  to  St. 
Pctersburgh,  fully  empowered  to  enter  into  the  requi- 
site negotiations.  A  passage  was  given  to  this  gentle- 
man by  the  government  of  the  United  States,  in  the 
John  Adams,  one  of  its  armed  vessels,  bound  to  a 
European  port. 

The  next  step  of  Mr.  Astor  was,  to  dispatch  the  an- 
nual ship  contemplated  on  his  general  plan.  He  had 
as  yet  heard  nothing  of  the  success  of  the  previous 
expeditions,  and  had  to  proceed  upon  the  presumption 
that  everything  had  been  effected  according  to  his  in- 
structions. Fie  accordingly  fitted  out  a  fine  ship  of 
four  hundred  and  ninety  tons,  called  the  Beaver,  and 
freighted  her  with  a  valuable  cargo  destined  for  the 
factory  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  the  trade  along 
the  coast,  and  the  supply  of  the  Russian  establishment. 
In  this  ship  embarked  a  reinforcement,  consisting  of  a 
partner,  five  clerks,  fifteen  American  laborers,  and  six 
Canadian  voyageurs.  In  choosing  his  agents  for  his 
first  expedition,  Mr.  Astor  had  been  obliged  to  have 
recourse  to  British  subjects  experienced  in  the  Cana- 
dian fur  trade;  henceforth  it  was  his  intention,  as 
much  as  possible,  to  select  Americans,  so  as  to  secure 
an  ascendency  of  American  influence  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  company,  and  to  make  it  decidedly 
national. 

Accordingly,  Mr,  John  Clarke,  the  partner  who  took 
the  lead  in  the  present  expedition,  was  a  native  of  the 
United  States,  though  he  had  passed  much  of  his  life 


nment, 
ister  at 
lortant 
I  wide 
'  estab- 
;ith  the 
auction 
ose,  in 
t  to  St. 
;  reqni- 
gcntle- 
in  the 
id  to   a 

the  an- 
He  had 
>revious 
imption 
his  in- 
ship  of 
er,  and 
for  the 
along 
hment. 
ig  of  a 
nd  six 
for  his 
o  have 
Cana- 
fon,   as 
secure 
[anage- 
:idedly 

io  took 
lof  the 
liis  life 


ASTORIA 


333 


I 


in  the  northwest,  having  been  employed  in  the  trade 
since  the  age  of  sixteen.  Most  of  the  clerks  were 
young  gentlemen  of  good  connections  in  the  American 
cities,  some  of  whom  embarked  in  the  hope  of  gain, 
others  through  the  mere  spirit  of  adventure  incident  lo 
youth. 

The  instructions  given  by  Mr.  Astor  to  Captain 
Sowle,  the  commander  of  the  Beaver,  were,  in  some 
respects,  hypothetical,  in  consequence  of  the  uncer- 
tainty resting  upon  the  previous  ste])s  of  the  enterprise. 

He  was  to  touch  at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  inf|uire 
about  the  fortunes  of  the  Tonquin,  and  whether  an  es- 
tablishment had  been  formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. If  so;  he  was  to  take  as  many  Sandwich 
Islanders  as  his  ship  would  accommodate,  and  proceed 
thither.  On  arriving  at  the  river,  he  was  to  observe 
great  caution,  for  even  if  an  establishment  should  have 
been  formed,  it  might  have  fallen  into  hostile  hands. 
He  was,  therefore,  to  put  in  as  if  by  casualty  or  dis- 
tress, to  give  himself  out  as  a  coastnig  trader,  and  to 
say  nothing  about  his  ship  being  owned  by  Mr.  Astor, 
until  he  had  ascertained  that  everything  was  right.  In 
that  case,  he  was  to  land  such  part  of  his  cargo  as  was 
intended  for  the  establishment,  and  to  proceed  to  New 
Archangel  with  the  supplies  intended  for  the  Russian 
post  at  that  place,  where  he  could  receive  peltries  in 
payment.  With  these  he  was  to  return  to  Astoria ; 
take  in  the  furs  collected  there,  and,  having  completed 
his  cargo  by  trading  along  the  coast,  was  to  proceed 
to  Canton.  The  captain  received  the  same  injunctions 
that  had  been  given  to  Captain  Thorn  of  the  Tonquin, 
of  great  caution  and  circumspection  in  his  intercourse 
with  the  natives,  and  that  he  should  not  permit  more 
than  one  or  two  to  be  on  board  at  a  time. 

The  Beaver  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  loth  of 
October,  i8it,  and  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands  with- 
out any  occurrence  of  moment.     Here  a  rumor  was 


-Tji 


'fit 

IS! 
t\  » 

I'M!     t 

:^ 
J 

'HISI 
J' 


'■Itm 


'^f 


If  I-;  •  'i  ?  5^  I 


334 


ASTORIA 


licatd  of  the  disastrous  fate  of  the  Tonquin.  Deep 
solicitude  was  felt  by  every  one  on  hoard  for  the  fate 
of  both  expe(htions,  Ijy  sea  and  land.  Doubts  were 
entertained  whether  any  establishment  had  been 
formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  whether  any 
of  the  company  would  be  found  there.  After  much 
deliberation,  the  captain  took  twelve  Sandwich  Island- 
ers on  board,  for  the  service  of  the  factory,  should 
there  be  one  in  existence,  and  proceeded  on  his  voyage. 

On  the  6th  of  May,  he  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  tlie 
Columbia,  and  running  as  near  as  possible,  fired  two 
signal  guns.  No  answer  was  returned,  nor  was  there 
any  signal  to  be  descried.  Night  coming  on,  the  ship 
stood  out  to  sea.  and  every  heart  drooped  as  the  land 
faded  away.  On  the  following  morning  they  again 
ran  in  within  four  miles  of  the  shore,  and  fired  other 
signal  guns,  but  still  without  reply.  A  boat  was  then 
dispatched,  to  sound  the  channel,  and  attempt  an  en- 
trance ;  but  returned  without  success,  there  being  a 
tremendous  swell,  and  breakers.  Signal  guns  were 
fired  again  in  the  evening,  but  equally  in  vain,  and  once 
more  the  ship  stood  off  to  sea  for  the  night.  The  cap- 
tain now  gave  up  all  hope  of  finding  any  establishment 
at  the  place,  and  indulged  in  the  most  gloomy  appre- 
hensions. He  feared  his  predecessors  had  been  mas- 
sacred before  they  had  reached  their  place  of  destina- 
tion;  or  if  they  should  have  erected  a  factory,  that  it 
had  been  surprised  and  destroyed  by  the  natives. 

In  this  moment  of  doubt  and  uncertainty.  Mr. 
Clarke  announced  his  determination,  in  case  of  the 
worst,  to  found  an  establishment  with  the  present 
party,  and  all  hands  bravely  engaged  to  stand  by  him 
in  the  undertaking.  The  next  morning  the  ship  stood 
in  for  the  third  time,  and  fired  three  signal  guns,  but 
with  little  hope  of  reply.  To  the  great  joy  of  the  crew, 
three  distinct  guns  were  heard  in  answer.  The  appre- 
hensions of  all  but  Captain  Sowle  were  now  at  rest. 


ASTORIA 


335 


/ 


Deep 

le  fate 

5  were 

l)een 

er  any 

much 
Island- 
should 
oyage. 
of  the 
ed  two 
s  there 
lie  ship 
le  land 
'  again 
d  other 
as  then 

an  en- 
»eing  a 
s  were 
id  once 
|ie  cap- 

;hment 

apprc- 
II  mas- 
lestina- 
Ithat  it 

Mr. 

.f  the 

Iresent 

him 

stood 

Is.  but 

I  crew, 

ppre- 

rest. 


That  cautious  commander  recollected  the  instructions 
given  iiim  l)y  Mr.  Astor,  and  determined  to  proceed 
with  great  circumspection,  lie  was  well  aware  of 
Indian  treachery  and  cunning.  It  was  not  impossible, 
he  observed,  that  these  cannon  might  have  been  tired 
by  the  savages  themselves.  They  might  have  sur- 
prised the  fort,  massacred  its  inmates;  and  these  signal 
guns  might  only  be  decoys  to  lure  him  across  the  bar. 
that  they  might  have  a  chance  of  cutting  him  off,  and 
seizing  his  vessel. 

At  length  a  white  flag  was  descried  hoisted  as 
a  signal  on  Cape  Disappointment.  The  passengers 
pointed  to  it  in  trium[)h.  but  the  captain  did  not  yet 
dismiss  his  doubts.  A  beacon  fire  blazed  through  the 
night  on  the  same  place,  but  the  captain  observed  that 
all  these  signals  might  l)e  treacherous. 

On  the  following  morning,  May  9th,  the  vessel  came 
to  anchor  off  Cape  Disappointment,  outside  of  the  bar. 
Towards  noon  an  Indian  canoe  was  seen  making  for 
the  ship  and  all  hands  were  ordered  to  be  on  the  alert. 
A  few  moments  afterwards,  a  barge  was  perceived  fol- 
lowing the  canoe.  The  hoi)es  and  fears  of  those  on 
board  of  the  ship  were  in  tumultuous  agitation,  as  the 
boat  drew  nigh  that  was  to  let  them  know  the  fortunes 
of  the  enterprise,  and  the  fate  of  their  predecessors. 
The  captain,  who  was  haunted  with  the  idea  of  j^ossible 
treacheiy,  did  not  suffer  his  curiosity  to  get  the  better 
of  his  caution,  but  ordered  a  party  of  his  men  under 
arms,  to  receive  the  visitors.  The  canoe  came  first 
alongside,  in  which  were  Comcomly  and  six  Indians; 
in  the  barge  were  M'Dougal,  MT.ellan,  and  eight  Cana- 
dians. A  little  conversation  with  these  gentlemen  dis- 
pelled all  the  captain's  fears,  and  the  l^eaver,  crossing 
the  bar  under  their  pilotage,  anchored  safely  in  Baker's 
Bay. 


I 


33^ 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER  XLIII 


•  -a 

;rf     f 


■jii» 


iilli  ' 


'J 


The  arrival  of  the  Beaver  with  a  reinforcement  and 
supphes,  i^avc  new  life  and  vii^or  to  affairs  at  Astoria. 
These  were  means  for  extendinj^  the  operations  of 
the  establisliment,  and  founding-  interior  tradinj^  ix)sts. 
Two  parties  were  immediately  set  on  foot  to  proceed 
severally  under  the  command  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and 
Clarke,  and  establish  posts  above  the  forks  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, at  points  where  most  rivalry  and  opposition 
were  apprehended  from  the  Northwest  Company. 

A  third  party,  headed  by  Mr.  David  Stuart,  was  to 
repair  with  supplies  to  the  post  of  that  gentleman  on 
the  Oakinagan.  In  addition  to  these  expeditions,  a 
ft)urth  was  necessary  to  convey  dispatches  to  Mr. 
Astor,  at  New  York,  in  place  of  those  unfortunately 
lost  by  John  Reed.  The  safe  conveyance  of  these  dis- 
patches was  highly  important,  as  by  them  Mr.  Astor 
would  receive  an  account  of  the  state  of  the  factory, 
and  regulate  his  reinforcements  and  supplies  accord- 
ingly. The  mission  was  one  of  peril  and  hardship 
and  required  a  man  of  nerve  and  vigor.  It  was  con- 
fided to  Robert  Stuart,  who,  though  he  had  never  been 
across  the  mountains,  and  a  very  young  man,  had 
given  proofs  of  his  competency  to  the  task,  h^our 
trusty  and  well-tried  men,  who  had  come  overland  in 
Mr.  Hunt's  expedition,  were  given  as  his  guides  and 
hunters.  These  were  Ben  Jones  and  John  Day,  the 
Kentuckians,  and  Andri  Vallar  and  Francis  Le  Clerc, 
Canadians.  Mr.  MT^ellan  again  expressed  his  de- 
termination to  take  this  opportunity  of  returning  to  the 
Atlantic  vStates.  In  this  he  was  joined  by  Mr.  Crooks, 
who,  notwithstanding  all  that  he  had  suffered  in  the 
dismal  journey  of  the  preceding  winter,  was  ready  to 
retrace  his  steps  and  brave  every  danger  and  hardship, 
rather  than  remain  at  Astoria.     This  little  handful  of 


ASTORIA 


337 


/ 


Mit  and 
Vstoria. 
ions  of 

L^  l>()StS. 

proceed 
izie  and 
the  Co- 
position 
ny. 
was  to 
man  on 
tions,   a 
to    Mr. 
tiinatcly 
lese  dis- 
•.  Aster 
factory, 
accord- 
ardship 
|as  con- 
er  been 
n.    had 
l^^our 
lland  in 
ties  and 
lay.  the 
Clerc, 
[lis   de- 
to  the 
rooks, 
in  the 
ady  to 
Irdshin, 
Iful  of 


adventurous  men  we  propose  to  accompany  in  its  lonj^ 
and  perilous  ])erej^rinati()ns. 

The  several  parties  we  have  mcntic^iicd  all  set  off  in 
company  on  the  29th  of  June,  under  a  sahite  of  cannon 
from  the  fort.  Tliey  were  to  keep  toj^elher  for  mutual 
protection  through  the  piratical  passes  of  tiie  river, 
and  to  separate,  on  their  different  destinations,  at  the 
forks  of  the  Columbia.  'IMieir  number,  collectively,  was 
nearly  sixty,  consisting  of  partners  and  clerks,  Cana- 
dian voyageurs.  Sandwich  Islanders,  and  American 
hunters ;  and  they  embarked  in  two  barges  aiul  ten 
canoes. 

They  had  scarcely  got  under  way,  when  John  Day, 
the  Kentucky  hunter,  became  restless  and  uneasy,  and 
extremely  wayward  in  his  deportment.  This  caused 
surprise,  for  in  general  he  was  remarkable  for  his 
cheerful,  manly  dei)ortment.  It  was  supposed  that  the 
recollection  of  past  sufferings  might  harass  his  mind  in 
undertaking  to  retrace  the  scenes  where  they  had  been 
experienced.  As  the  expedition  advanced,  however, 
his  agitation  increased.  He  began  to  talk  wildly  and 
incoherently,  and  to  show  manifest  symptoms  of 
derangement. 

Mr.  Crooks  now  informed  his  companions  that  in 
his  desolate  wanderings  through  the  Snake  River  coun- 
try during  the  preceding  winter,  in  which  he  had  been 
accompanied  by  John  Day,  the  poor  fellow's  wits  had 
been  partially  unsettled  by  the  sufferings  and  horrors 
through  which  they  had  passed,  and  he  doubted 
whether  they  had  ever  been  restored  to  perfect  sanity. 
It  was  still  hoped  that  this  agitation  of  spirit  might 
pass  aw^ay  as  they  proceeded ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  it 
grew  more  and  more  violent.  His  comrades  endeavored 
to  divert  his  mind  and  to  draw  him  into  rational  con- 
versation, but  he  only  became  the  more  exasperated, 
uttering  wild  and  incoherent  ravings.  I'iie  sight  of 
any  of  the  natives  put  him  in  an  absolute  fury,  and  he 


j^ 


22 


338 


ASTORIA 


li     ( 


^r 


fill   , 

I 


H:' 

n 

4 

«(!!• 

'.113 

■1 

J' 

ll»' 

t 

k 

m' 

M 

r 

•m 

Hi 

would  heap  on  them  the  most  opproljrioiis  epithets; 
recollecting',  no  doubt,  what  he  had  suffered  from  In- 
dian rohbers. 

On  the  evening  of  the  2d  of  July  he  became  abso- 
lutely frantic,  and  attempted  to  destroy  himself.  Being 
disarmed,  he  sank  into  quietude,  and  professed  the 
greatest  remorse  for  the  crime  he  had  meditated.  He 
then  pretended  to  sleep,  and  having  thus  lulled  sus- 
picion, suddenly  sprang  up.  just  before  daylight,  seized 
a  pair  of  lo>ided  pistols,  and  endeavored  to  blow  out  his 
brains.  In  his  hurry  he  fired  too  high,  and  the  balls 
passed  over  his  head.  He  was  instantly  secured  and 
placed  under  a  guard  in  one  of  the  boats.  How  to 
dispose  of  him  was  now  the  question,  as  it  w'as  im- 
possible to  keep  him  with  the  expedition.  Fortunately 
Mr.  Stuart  met  with  some  Indians  accustomed  to  trade 
with  Astoria.  These  undertook  to  conduct  John  Day 
back  to  the  factory,  and  deliver  him  there  in  safety. 
It  was  with  the  utmost  concern  that  h"s  comrades  saw 
the  poor  fellow  depart;  for,  independent  of  his  in- 
valuable services  as  a  first-rate  hunt(.'r,  his  frank  and 
loyal  (|ualities  had  made  him  a  universal  favorite.  It 
may  be  as  well  to  add  that  the  Indians  executed  their 
task  faithfully,  and  landed  John  Day  among  his  friends 
at  Astoria ;  but  his  constitution  was  completely  broken 
by  the  hardships  he  had  undergone,  and  he  died  w'ithin 
a  year. 

On  the  evening  of  the  r)th  of  July  the  party  arrived 
at  the  piratical  pass  of  the  river,  and  encamped  at  the 
foot  of  the  first  rapid.  The  next  day,  before  the  com- 
mencement of  the  portage,  the  greatest  precautions 
were  taken  to  guard  against, lurking  treachery,  or  open 
attack.  The  weapons  of  every  man  were  put  in  order, 
and  his  cartridge-box  replenished.  Each  one  wore  a 
kind  of  surcoat  made  of  riie  skin  of  the  elk,  reaching 
from  his  neck  to  his  knees,  and  answering  the  purpose 
of  a  shirt  of  mail,  for  it  was  arrow-proof,  and  could 


thets ; 
m  In- 

abso- 
Being 
id  the 
.     He 
d  siis- 
seized 
3nt  his 
e  balls 
^d  and 
^ow  to 
as  im- 
inately 
J  trade 
m  Day 
safety, 
es  saw 
his  in- 
ik  and 
te.     It 
1  their 
riends 
jroken" 
within 

irrived 
at  the 
com- 
lutions 
|r  open 
order, 
rorc  a 
idling 
Lirpose 
could 


ASTORIA 


339 


even  resist  a  musket  ball  at  the  distance  of  ninety  yards. 
Thus  arnieil  and  equipped,  they  posted  tlieir  forces  in 
military  style.  Five  of  the  officers  took  their  stations 
at  each  end  of  the  portage,  which  was  between  three 
and  four  miles  in  length;  a  number  of  men  mounted 
guard  at  short  distances  along  the  heights  immediately 
overlooking  the  river,  while  the  residue,  thus  pro- 
tected from  surprise,  employed  themselves  below  in 
dragging  up  the  barges  and  canoes,  and  carrying  up 
the  goods  along  the  narrow  margin  of  the  rapids. 
With  these  precautions  they  all  passed  unmolested. 
The  only  accident  that  happened  was  the  upsetting  of 
one  of  the  canoes,  by  which  some  of  the  goods  sunk, 
and  others  floated  down  the  stream.  The  alertness  and 
rapacity  of  the  hordes  which  infest  these  rapids,  were 
immediately  apparent.  They  pounced  upon  the  floating 
merchandise  with  the  keenness  of  regular  wreckers. 
A  bale  of  goods  which  landed  upon  one  of  the  islands 
was  immediately  ripped  open,  one  half  of  its  contents 
divided  among  the  caj)tors,  and  the  other  half  secreted 
in  a  lonely  hut  in  a  deep  ravme.  IMr.  Robert  Stuart, 
however,  set  out  in  a  canoe  with  five  men  and  an  inter- 
preter, ferreted  out  the  wreckers  in  their  retreat,  and 
succeeded  in  wresting  from  them  their  booty. 

Similar  precautions  to  those  already  mentioned,  and 
to  a  still  greater  extent,  were  observed  in  passing  the 
Long  Narrows,  and  the  falls,  where  they  would  be  ex- 
posed to  the  depredations  of  the  chivalry  of  Wish- 
ram,  and  its  freebooting  neighborhood.  In  fact,  they 
had  scarcely  set  their  first  watch  one  night,  when  an 
alarm  of  "Indians!  "  was  given.  ''To  arms"  was  the 
cry,  and  every  man  was  at  his  post  in  an  instant.  The 
alarm  was  explained ;  a  war  party  of  Shoshonies  had 
surprised  a  canoe  of  the  natives  just  below  the  encamp- 
ment, had  murdered  four  men  and  two  women,  and  it 
was  apiirehendcd  they  would  attack  the  camp.  The 
boats  and  canoes  were  immediately  hauled  up,  a  breast- 


/ 


I 


340 


ASTORIA 


I! 


?i? 


m 

;i»i} 

■'■4 


1                                                                                  (111 

/      si' 

i« 

1                     '"• 

[  ■  ■    '       ■ ' 

P- 

J 

It: 

work  was  made  of  them  and  the  packages,  forming 
three  sides  of  a  square,  with  the  river  in  the  rear,  and 
tluis  the  party  remained  fortified  throughout  tiie  niglit. 

The  dawn,  however,  dispelled  the  alarm ;  the  por- 
tage was  conducted  in  peace ;  the  vagabond  warriors 
of  the  vicinity  hovered  about  them  while  at  work,  but 
were  kept  at  a  wary  distance.  They  regarded  the  loads 
of  merchandise  with  wistful  eyes,  but  seeing  the  "  long- 
beards  "  so  formidable  in  number,  and  so  well  pre- 
])ared  for  action,  they  made  no  attempt  either  by  open 
force  or  sly  pilfering  to  collect  their  usual  toll,  but 
maintained  a  peaceful  demeanor,  and  were  afterwards 
rewarded  for  their  good  conduct  with  presents  of 
tobacco. 

Fifteen  days  were  consumed  in  ascending  from  the 
foot  of  the  first  rapid  to  the  head  of  the  falls,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  eighty  miles,  but  full  of  all  kinds  of 
obstructions.  Having  happily  accomplished  these  dif- 
ficult portages,  the  party,  on  the  19th  of  July,  arrived 
at  a  smoother  part  of  the  river,  and  pursued  their  way 
up  the  stream  with  greater  speed  and  facility. 

They  were  now  in  the  neighljorhood  where  ^^Fr. 
Crooks  and  John  Day  had  been  so  perfidiously  robbed 
and  stripped  a  few  months  previously,  when  confiding 
in  the  proffered  hospitality  of  a  rufTian  band.  On  land- 
ing at  night,  therefore,  a  vigilant  guard  was  main- 
tained about  the  camp.  On  the  following  morning  a 
number  of  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and  came 
prowling  round  tl  e  party  while  at  breakfast.  To  his 
great  delight.  Mr.  Crooks  recognized  among  them  two 
of  the  miscreants  by  whom  he  had  been  robbed.  They 
were  instantly  seized,  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  thrown 
into  one  of  the  canoes.  Here  they  lay  in  doleful  fright, 
expecting  summary  execution.  Mr.  Crooks,  ho\\(.'ver, 
was  not  of  a  revengeful  disposition,  and  agreed  to  re- 
lease the  culprits  as  soon  as  the  pillaged  j^roperty 
sliould    be    restored.      Several    savages    immediatelv 


ASTORIA 


341 


/ 


time 

his 

It  wo 

[hey 

l)\Vtl 

^^ht, 
|ver, 
re- 
M-ty 
Itely 


btartcd  off  in  different  directions,  and  before  ni.q:ht  the 
rilles  of  Crooks  and  Day  were  produced;  several  of 
the  smaller  articles  pilfered  from  them,  however,  could 
not  be  recovered. 

The  bands  of  the  culprits  were  then  removed,  and 
tlicy  lost  no  time  in  takin^;-  their  departure,  still  under 
the  influence  of  al)ject  terror,  and  scarcely  crcditinj^ 
their  sen^es  that  they  had  escaped  the  merited  i)unisli- 
nient  of  their  offences. 

The  country  on  each  side  of  the  river  now  be,2^an 
to  assume  a  different  character.  The  hills,  and  cliffs, 
and  forests  disa])i)eared ;  vast  sandy  plains,  scantily 
clothed  here  and  there  with  short  tufts  of  grass, 
parched  1>y  the  summer  sun,  stretched  far  away  to  the 
north  and  south.  The  river  was  occasionally  obstructed 
with  rocks  and  rapids,  but  often  there  were  smooth, 
placid  intervals,  where  the  current  w^as  gentle,  and  the 
boatmen  were  enabled  to  lighten  their  labors  with  the 
assistance  of  the  sail. 

The  natives  in  this  part  of  the  river  resided  entirely 
on  the  northern  side.  They  were  hunters,  as  well  as 
fishermen,  and  had  horses  in  plenty.  Some  of  these 
were  purchased  by  the  party,  as  provisions,  and  killed 
on  the  spot,  though  they  occasionally  found  a  difficulty 
in  procuring  fuel  wherewith  to  cook  them.  One  of  the 
greatest  dangers  that  beset  the  travellers  in  this  part 
of  their  expedition,  was  the  vast  number  of  ra:;tlesnakes 
which  infested  the  rocks  about  the  rapids  and  portages, 
and  on  which  the  men  were  in  danger  of  treading. 
'iMiey  were  often  found,  too,  in  cjuantitics  about  the 
encampments.  In  one  ])lace,  a  nest  of  them  lay  coile<l 
together,  basking  in  the  sun.  Several  guns  loaded  with 
shot  were  discharged  at  them,  and  thirty-seven  killed 
anrl  wounded.  To  prevent  any  unwelcome  visits  from 
them  in  the  night,  tobacco  was  occasionally  strewed 
around  the  tents,  a  weed  for  which  they  have  a  very 
proi)er  abhorrence. 


\. 


\  ■■ 


li 


342 


ASTORIA 


'1 


"J 

''mi 


9»  ] 


m 


'  i 

lid 

■J* 

(1 

:  1 

t 

:■ 
1. 

i 

(■• 

8 
1 
I 

I- 

il   1 

On  the  2Sth  of  July  the  travellers  arrived  at  the 
month  of  the  Wallah-Wallah,  a  bright,  clear  stream, 
abont  six  feet  deep,  and  fifty-live  yards  wide,  which 
flows  rapidly  over  a  bed  of  sand  and  gravel,  and  throws 
itself  into  the  Columbia,  a  few  miles  below  Lewis 
River.  Here  the  combined  parties  that  had  thus  fa* 
voyaged  together  were  to  separate,  each  for  its  par- 
ticular destination. 

On  the  banks  of  the  ^^'allah- Wallah,  lived  the  hos- 
pitable tribe  of  the  same  name  who  had  succored  Mr. 
Crooks  and  John  Day  in  the  time  of  their  extremity. 
No  sooner  did  they  hear  of  the  arrival  of  the  party, 
than  they  hastened  to  greet  them.  They  built  a  great 
bonfire  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  before  the  camp,  and 
men  and  women  danced  round  it  to  the  cadence  of 
their  songs,  in  which  they  sang  the  praises  of  the 
white  men,  and  welcomed  them  to  their  country. 

On  the  following  day  a  traffic  was  commenced,  to 
procure  horses  for  such  of  the  ])arty  as  intended  to 
proceed  l)y  land.  The  Wallah-Wallahs  are  an  ecjues- 
trian  tribe.  The  equipments  of  their  horses  were  rude 
and  inconvenient.  High  saddles,  roughly  made  of 
deer-skin,  stuffed  with  hair,  which  chafe  the  horse's 
back  and  leave  it  raw ;  wooden  stirrups,  with  a  th^ng 
of  raw  hide  wra|)ped  round  them  ;  and  for  bridles  they 
have  cords  of  twisted  horse-hair,  which  they  tie  round 
the  under  jaw.  They  are,  like  most  Indians,  bold  but 
hard  riders,  and  when  on  horseback  gallop  about  the 
most  dangerous  places,  without  fear  for  themselves, 
or  pity  for  their  steeds. 

From  these  people  Mr.  Stuart  purchased  twenty 
horses  for  his  party;  some  for  the  saddle,  and  others 
to  transport  the  baggage.  ?Ie  was  fortunate  in  pro- 
curing a  noble  animal  for  his  own  use.  which  was 
praised  by  the  Indians  for  its  great  speed  and  bottom, 
and  a  high  price  set  upon  it.  No  people  understand 
better  the  value  of  a  horse,  than  tliese  equestrian  tribes; 


ASTORIA 


343 


/ 


at  the 
treani, 

which 
throws 

Lewis 
lus  fa' 
ts  par- 

le  hos- 
ed Mr. 
remity. 
I  party, 
a  great 
np,  and 
ence  of 
of   the 

y- 

iced,  to 
ided  to 
I  eciiies- 
:re  rude 
lade   of 
horse's 
a  thong 
les  they 
le  round 
liold  hut 
lout  the 
Inselves, 

twenty 
|l  others 

in  pro- 
Ich   was 

|])Ott01TI, 

lerstand 
tril)es; 


and  nowliere  is  speed  a  greater  requisite,  as  they  fre- 
quently engage  in  the  chase  of  the  antelope,  oi  e  of  the 
iieetest  of  animals.  Even  after  the  Indian  who  sold 
this  boasted  horse  to  Air.  Stuart  had  concluded  his 
bargain,  he  lingered  about  the  animal,  seeming  loth  to 
part  from  him,  and  to  be  sorry  for  what  he  had  done. 

A  day  or  two  were  employed  by  Mr.  Stuart  in  ar- 
ranging packages  and  pack-saddles,  and  making  otlier 
preparations  for  his  long  and  arduous  journey.  His 
party,  by  the  loss  of  John  Day  was  now  reduced  to  six, 
a  small  number  for  such  an  expedition.  They  were 
young  men.  however,  full  of  courage,  health,  and  good 
spirits,  and  stimulated  rather  than  appalled  by  danger. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  July,  all  preparations 
being  concluded,  }h.  Stuart  and  his  little  band  mounted 
their  steeds  and  took  a  farewell  of  their  fellow-travel- 
lers, who  gave  them  three  hearty  cheers  as  they  set 
out  on  their  dangerous  journey.  The  course  they  took 
was  to  the  southeast,  towards  the  fated  region  of  the 
Snake  River.  At  an  immense  distance  rose  a  chain 
of  craggy  mountains,  which  they  would  have  to 
traverse;  they  were  the  same  among  which  the  travel- 
lers had  experienced  such  sufferings  froui  cold  during 
the  preceding  winter,  and  from  their  azure  tints,  when 
seen  at  a  distance,  had  received  the  name  of  the  Blue 
Mountains. 


/ 


CHAPTER    XLIV 


V. 


.0 

I 


v.^ 


i-  * 


vP- 


\ 


In  retracing  the  route  which  had  proved  so  disastrous 
to  Mr.  Hunt's  party  during  the  preceding  winter,  Mr. 
Stuart  had  trusted,  in  the  present  more  favorable 
season,  to  fmd  easy  travelling  and  abundant  sui)i)lies. 
On  these  great  wastes  and  wilds,  however,  each  season 
has  its  peculiar  liardships.  The  travellers  had  not 
proceeded   far,   before  they   found   themselves  among 


)  \ 


r'> 


^ 


m 

1             '>« 

\ 
1 

a 

i 

5 

in 

m 
m 

,  1 
1 

ir 


lit*  I 


■"'■■x 


1 

■.. 

t^ 

} 

1 

•■ 

1 

m 

^ 

1 

i 

ii^^_^i  ■ 

* 

344 


ASTORIA 


naked  and  arid  hills,  with  a  soil  composed  of  sand 
and  clay,  baked  and  brittle,  that  to  all  appearance  had 
never  been  visited  by  the  dews  of  heaven. 

Not  a  spring-,  or  pool,  or  rnnning  stream  was  to  be 
seen;  the  snnbnrnt  country  was  seamed  and  cut  np 
by  dry  ravines,  the  beds  of  winter  t(jrrents,  serving- 
only  to  balk  the  hopes  of  man  and  beast  with  the  sight 
of  dusty  channels,  where  water  had  once  poured  along 
in  floods. 

For  a  long  summer  day  they  continued  onward  with 
out  halting,  a  burning  sky  above  their  heads,  a  parched 
desert  beneath  their  feet,  with  just  wind  enough  to 
raise  the  light  sand  from  the  knolls,  and  envelop  them 
in  stilhng  clouds.  The  sufferings  from  thirst  became 
intense;  a  fine  young  dog,  their  only  companicni  of 
the  kind,  gave  out  and  expired.  Evening  drew  on 
without  any  prospect  of  relief,  and  they  were  almost 
reduced  to  despair,  when  they  descried  something  that 
looked  like  a  fringe  of  forest  along  the  horizon.  All 
were  inspired  with  new  hope,  for  they  knew  that  on 
these  arid  wastes,  in  the  neighborhood  of  trees,  there 
is  always  water. 

They  now  quickened  their  pace;  the  horses  seemed 
to  understand  their  motives,  and  to  partake  of  their 
anticipations;  for,  though  Ijefore  almost  ready  to  give 
out,  they  now  re([uired  neither  whip  nor  spur.  With 
all  their  exertions,  it  was  late  in  the  night  before  th.cy 
drew  near  to  the  trees.  As  they  api^roached,  they 
heard,  with  transport,  the  rii)pling  of  a  shallow  stream. 
No  sooner  did  tlie  refrcsliinfr  sound  reach  the  ears  of 
the  horses,  tlian  the  poor  animals  snuffed  the  air, 
rushed  forward  with  ungovernable  eagerness,  and 
plunging  their  nuizzles  into  the  water,  drank  until  -hey 
seemed  in  danger  of  bursting.  Their  riders  had  but 
little  more  discretion,  and  required  re])eated  draughts 
to  quench  their  excessive  thirst.  Their  weary  march 
that  dav  had  been   forty-five  miles,  over  a  tract  that 


ASTORIA 


345 


/ 


Imost 

;•  that 

All 

on 

here 


their 
give 
iWith 

th.cy 
they 
eaiii. 
s  of 

air, 
and 
ii>ey 

hnt 
i^iits 
a  roll 
that 


might  rival  the  deserts  of  Africa  for  aridity.  Indeed, 
the  sufferings  of  the  traveller  on  these  American  des- 
erts is  frecjuently  more  severe  than  in  the  wastes  of 
Africa  or  ^Vsia,  from  being  less  habituated  ruid  pre- 
pared to  cope  with  them. 

On  the  banks  of  this  blessed  stream  the  travellers 
encamped  for  the  night;  and  so  great  had  been  their 
fatigue,  and  so  sound  and  sweet  was  tlieir  sleep,  that  it 
was  a  late  hour  the  next  morniu"-  before  they  awoke. 
They  now  recognized  tlie  little  river  to  l)e  the  Uma- 
talla,  the  same  on  the  banks  of  which  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  followers  had  arrived  after  their  painful  struggle 
through  the  l>lue  iVIountains,  and  experienced  such  a 
kind  relief  in  the  friendly  camp  of  the  Sciat(\gas. 

That  range  of  Blue  Mountains  now  extended  in 
the  distance  before  them;  they  were  the  same  among 
which  poor  Michael  Carriere  had  perislicd.  They  form 
the  southeast  boundary  of  the  g"reat  plains  along  the 
Columbia,  dividing  the  waters  of  its  main  stream  from 
those  of  Lewis  River.  They  are,  in  fact,  a  part  of  a 
long  chain,  wliich  stretches  over  a  great  extent  of 
country,  and  includes  in  its  links  the  Snake  River 
Mountains. 

The  day  was  somewhat  advanced  before  the  travel- 
lers left  the  shady  banks  of  the  Umatalla.  Their  route 
gradually  took  them  among  the  Blue  Mountains,  which 
assumed  the  most  rugged  aspect  on  a  nc.u-  approach. 
'J'hey  were  shagged  with  dense  and  gloomy  forests, 
and  cut  up  by  deep  and  precipitous  ravines,  extremely 
toilsome  to  the  horses.  StMiietimes  the  travellers  had 
to  follow  the  course  of  some  brawling  stream,  with 
a  broken,  rocky  bed,  which  the  shouldering  cHffs  and 
promontories  on  either  side  obliged  them  frequently 
to  cross  and  recross.  For  some  miles  they  struggled 
forward  through  these  savage  and  darkly  wooded  de- 
files, when  all  at  once  t!ie  whole  landscape  changed,  as 
if  by  magic.    The  rude  mountains  and  rugged  ravines 


\ 


I"  :>•  ■ 


346 


ASTORIA 


l! 


1 

,..J ' 

:^) 

J) 

aii 

ii» 

■■II 

1;' 
1 1 


softened  into  lx?riutiful  hills,  and  intervcninj;^  meadows, 
with  rivulets  winding  through  fix'sh  herhage,  and 
sparkling  and  murmuring  over  gravelly  beds,  the  whole 
forming  a  verdant  antl  pastoral  scene,  which  derived 
additional  charms  from  being  locked  up  in  the  bosom 
of  such  a  hard-hearted  region. 

Emerging  from  the  chain  of  Blue  IVIountains,  they 
descended  upon  a  vast  plain,  almost  a  dead  level,  sixty 
miles  in  circumference,  of  excellent  soil,  with  line 
streams  meandering  through  it  in  every  direction,  their 
courses  marked  out  in  the  wide  landscape  by  serpentine 
lines  of  cotton-wood  trees,  and  willows,  which  fringed 
their  banks,  and  afforded  sustenance  to  great  numbers 
of  beavers  and  otters. 

In  traversing  this  plain,  they  passed,  close  to  the 
skirts  of  the  hills,  a  great  pool  of  water,  three  hun- 
dred yards  in  circumference,  fed  by  a  sulphur  spring, 
about  ten  feet  in  diameter,  boiling  up  in  one  corner. 
The  vapor  from  this  pool  was  extremely  n(jisome,  and 
tainted  the  air  for  a  considerable  distance.  The  place 
was  much  frequented  by  elk,  which  were  found  in  con- 
siderable numbers  in  the  adjacent  mountains,  and  their 
horns,  shed  in  the  spring-time,  were  strewed  in  every 
direction  around  the  pond. 

On  the  loth  of  August,  they  reached  the  main  body 
of  Woodvile  Creek,  the  same  stream,  which  Mr.  Hunt 
had  ascended  in  the  preceding  year,  shortly  after  his 
separation  from  Mr.  Crooks, 

On  the  banks  of  this  stream  they  saw  a  herd  of  nine- 
teen antelopes;  a  sight  so  unusual  in  that  part  of  the 
country,  that  at  first  they  doubted  the  evidence  of  their 
senses.  They  tried  by  every  means  to  get  within  shot 
of  them,  but  they  w^ere  too  shy  and  fleet,  and  after 
alternately  bounding  to  a  distance,  and  then  stopping 
to  gaze  with  capricious  curiosity  at  the  hunter,  they  at 
length  scampered  out  of  sight. 

On  the  1 2th  of  August,  the  travellers  arrived  on  the 


ASTORIA 


347 


nine- 
f  the 
their 
sliot 
after 
iping 
ley  at 


banks  of  Snake  River,  tlie  scene  of  so  many  trials  and 
mishaps  to  all  of  the  present  party  excepting  Mr. 
Stuart.  They  strnck  the  river  just  above  the  place 
where  it  entered  the  mountains,  tiinnigh  which  Messrs. 
Stuart  and  Crooks  had  vainly  endeavored  to  lind  a 
passage.  The  river  was  here  a  rai)id  stream,  four 
hundred  yards  in  width,  with  high  sandy  banks,  and 
here  and  there  a  scanty  growth  of  willow.  Up  the 
southern  side  of  the  river  they  now  bent  their  course, 
intending  to  visit  the  caches  made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the 
Caldron  Linn. 

On  the  second  evening,  a  solitary  Snake  Indian 
visited  their  camp,  at  a  late  hour,  and  informed  them 
that  there  was  a  whi^e  man  residing  at  one  of  the 
cantonments  of  his  tribe,  abtnit  a  day's  journey  higher 
up  the  river.  It  was  immediately  concluded,  that  he 
must  be  one  of  the  poor  fellows  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party, 
who  had  given  out,  exhausted  by  hunger  and  fatigue, 
in  the  wretched  journey  of  the  preceding  winter.  All 
present  who  had  borne  a  part  in  the  sufferings  of  that 
journey,  w'ere  eager  now  to  press  forward,  and  bring 
relief  to  a  lost  comrade.  Early  the  next  morning, 
therefore,  they  pushed  forward  witli  unusual  alacrity. 
For  two  days,  however,  did  they  travel  without  being 
able  to  find  any  trace  of  such  a  straggler. 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  they  arrived  at 
a  place  w  here  a  large  river  came  in  from  the  east,  which 
was  renowned  among  all  the  wandering  hordes  of  the 
Snake  nation  for  its  salmon  fishery,  that  fish  being 
taken  in  incredible  quantities  in  this  neighborhood. 
Here,  therefore,  during  the  fishing  season,  the  Snake 
Indians  resort  from  far  and  near,  to  lay  in  their  stock 
of  salmon,  which,  with  esculent  roots,  fonns  the  princi- 
pal food  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  barren  regions. 

On  the  bank  of  a  small  stream  emptying  into  Snake 
River  at  this  place,  Mr.  Stuart  found  an  encampment 
of  Shoshonies.     He  made  the  usual  inquiry  of  them 


I   I 


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348 


ASTORIA 


concerning  the  white  man  of  whom  he  h.'rl  received 
intelhgence.  No  snch  person  was  (hvclhni;  amonj^ 
them,  bnt  they  said  there  were  while  men  resichnj; 
with  some  of  their  nation  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  This  was  still  more  animating-  information. 
Mr.  Crooks  now  hoped  thai  these  mi<^ht  he  the  men  of 
his  party,  who,  disheartened  by  i)erils  and  hardships, 
had  preferred  to  remain  amonpf  the  Indians.  Others 
thought  they  might  he  Mr.  Miller  and  the  hunters 
who  had  left  the  main  body  at  Henry's  Fort,  to  traj) 
among  the  mouniain  streams.  Mr.  Stuart  hailed, 
therefore,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Shoshonie  lodges, 
and  sent  an  Indian  across  the  river  to  seek  out  the  while 
men  in  question,  and  bring  them  to  his  camp. 

The  travellers  passed  a  restless,  miserable  night. 
The  place  swarmed  with  myriads  of  musquitoes, 
which,  with  their  stings  and  their  music,  set  all  sleep 
at  defiance.  The  morning  dawn  found  them  in  a  fev- 
erish, irritable  mood,  and  their  splt'en  was  completely 
aroused  by  the  return  of  the  Indian  without  any  in- 
telligence of  the  white  men.  They  now  considered 
themselves  the  dupes  of  Indian  falsehoods,  and  re- 
solved to  put  no  more  confidence  in  Snakes.  They 
soon,  however,  forgot  this  resolution.  In  the  course 
of  the  morning,  an  Indian  came  galloping  after  them; 
Mr.  Stuart  waited  to  receive  him;  no  sooner  had  he 
come  up,  than,  dismounting  and  throwing  his  arms 
round  the  neck  of  Mr.  Stuart's  horse,  he  began  \.o  kiss 
and  caress  the  animal,  wdio,  on  his  part,  seemed  by 
no  means  surprised  or  displeased  with  his  salutation. 
Mr.  Stuart,  who  valued  his  horse  highly,  was  some- 
what annoyed  by  these  transports ;  the  cause  of  them 
was  soon  explained.  The  Snake  said  the  horse  had  be- 
longed to  him,  and  been  the  best  in  his  possession,  and 
that  it  had  been  stolen  by  the  Wallah-Wallahs.  Mr. 
Stuart  was  by  no  means  pleased  with  this  recognition 
of  his  steed,  nor  disposed  to  admit  any  claim  on  the 


-,;.'!. 
-.i-;:i.-i 


ASTORIA 


349 


/ 


They 

Icourse 

tliem ; 

ad  lie 

.'iriiis 

I)  kiss 

|ed  by 

ation. 

isonie- 

them 

d  l)e- 

|i,  and 

Air. 

nition 

In  the 


part  of  its  ancient  owner.  In  fact,  it  was  a  noble 
animal,  admirably  shai)ed,  of  free  and  j^-enerons  spirit, 
fjracefnl  in  movement,  and  fleet  as  an  antelope.  It  was 
his  intention,  if  ix)ssil)le,  to  take  the  horse  to  New 
York,  and  i)resent  him  to  Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  meantime,  some  of  the  party  came  up,  and 
immediately  recognized  in  the  Snake  an  old  friend  and 
ally,  lie  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  two  j^uides  who  had 
condncted  Mr.  Hunt's  party,  in  the  |)rece<lini!^  autumn, 
across  Mad  River  Mountain  to  Fort  Henry,  and  who 
sul)se(|uently  departed  with  Mr.  Miller  and  his  fellow 
trappers,  to  conduct  them  to  a  i^ckkI  trapping;"  j^round. 
'l"he  reader  may  recollect  that  these  two  trusty  Snakes 
were  enj^'a.i^'ed  by  Mr.  Hunt  to  return  and  take  charii^'e 
of  the  horses  which  the  party  intended  to  leave  at  Fort 
Henry,  when  they  should  embark  in  canoes. 

The  party  now  crowded  round  the  Snake,  and  began 
to  (picstion  him  with  eagerness.  His  replies  were 
somewhat  vag^ue.  and  but  partially  understood.  He 
told  a  long  story  about  the  horses,  from  which  it  a|)- 
])eare(l  that  they  had  been  stolen  by  various  wandering 
l)ands,  and  scattered  in  different  directions.  The 
cache,  too,  had  been  plundered,  and  the  saddles  and 
other  equipments  carried  off.  His  information  con- 
cerning Mr.  Miller  and  his  comrades  was  not  more 
satisfactory.  They  had  trapped  for  some  time  about 
the  upi)er  streams,  but  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
a  marauding  party  of  Crows,  who  had  robbed  them 
of  horses,  weapons,  and  everything. 

Further  questioning  brought  forth  further  intelli- 
gence, but  all  of  a  disastrous  kind.  About  ten  days 
])reviously,  he  had  met  with  three  other  white  men, 
in  very  miserable  plight,  having-  one  horse  each,  and 
but  one  rifle  among-  them.  They  also  had  been  plun- 
dered and  maltreated  by  the  Crows,  those  universal 
freel)ooters.  The  Snake  endeavored  to  pronounce  the 
names  of  these  three  men,  and  as  far  as  his  imperfect 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


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350 


ASTORIA 


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Bl 


sounds  could  be  understood,  they  were  supposed  to  be 
three  of  the  party  of  four  hunters,  namely,  Carson, 
St.  Michael,  Detaye,  and  Delaunay,  who  were  detached 
from  Mr.  Hunt's  party  on  the  28th  of  September,  to 
trap  beaver  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  the  Indian  informed 
them  that  the  route  by  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountains  was  very  bad  and  circuitous,  and 
that  he  knew  one  much  shorter  and  easier.  Mr.  Stuart 
urged  him  to  accompany  them  as  guide,  promising  to 
reward  him  with  a  pistol  with  powder  and  ball,  a  knife, 
an  awl,  some  blue  beads,  a  blanket,  and  a  looking- 
glass.  Such  a  catalogue  of  riches  was  too  tempting 
to  be  resisted ;  beside  the  poor  Snake  languished  after 
the  prairies;  he  was  tired,  he  said,  of  salmon,  and 
longed  for  buffalo  meat,  and  to  have  a  grand  buffalo 
hunt  beyond  the  mountains.  He  departed,  therefore, 
with  all  speed,  to  get  his  arms  and  equipments  for  the 
journey,  promising  to  rejoin  the  party  the  next  day. 
He  kept  his  word,  and,  as  he  no  longer  said  anything 
to  Mr.  Stuart  on  the  subject  of  the  pet  horse,  they 
journeyed  very  harmoniously  together;  though  now 
and  then,  the  Snake  would  regard  his  quondam  steed 
with  a  wistful  eye. 

They  had  not  travelled  many  miles,  when  they  came 
to  a  great  bend  in  the  river.  Here  the  Snake  informed 
them  that,  by  cutting  across  the  hills  they  would  save 
many  miles  of  distance.  The  route  across,  however, 
would  be  a  good  day's  journey.  He  advised  them, 
therefore,  to  encamp  here  for  the  night,  and  set  off 
early  in  the  morning.  They  took  his  advice,  though 
they  had  come  but  nine  miles  that  day. 

On  the  following  morning  they  rose,  bright  and 
early,  to  ascend  the  hills.  On  mustering  their  little 
party,  the  guide  was  missing.  They  supposed  him  to 
be  somewhere  in  the  neighborhood,  and  proceeded  to 
collect  the  horses.     The  vaunted  steed  of  Mr.  Stuart 


ASTORIA 


351 


^ 


»g 


and 


was  not  to  be  found.  A  suspicion  flashed  upon  his 
mind.  Search  for  the  horse  of  the  Snake!  He  Hke- 
wise  was  gone  —  the  tracks  of  two  horses,  one  after 
the  other,  were  found,  making  off  from  the  camp. 
They  appeared  as  if  one  horse  had  been  mounted,  and 
the  other  led.  They  were  traced  for  a  few  miles  above 
the  camp,  until  they  both  crossed  the  river.  It  was 
plain  the  Snake  had  taken  an  Indian  mode  of  recover- 
ing his  horse,  having  quietly  decamped  with  him  in 
the  night. 

New  vows  were  made  never  more  to  trust  in  Snakes, 
or  any  other  Indians.  It  was  determined,  also,  to 
maintain,  hereafter,  the  strictest  vigilance  over  their 
horses,  dividing  the  night  into  three  watches,  and  one 
person  mounting  guard  at  a  time.  They  resolved,  also, 
to  keep  along  the  river,  instead  of  taking  the  short  cut 
recommended  by  the  fugitive  Snake,  whom  they  now 
set  down  for  a  thorough  deceiver.  The  heat  of  the 
weather  was  oppressive,  and  their  horses  were,  at 
times,  rendered  almost  frantic  by  the  stings  of  the 
prairie  flies.  The  nights  were  suffocating,  and  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  sleep,  from  the  swarms  of 
musquitoes. 

On  the  20th  of  August  they  resumed  their  march, 
keeping  along  the  prairie  parallel  to  Snake  River. 
The  day  was  sultry,  and  some  of  the  party,  being 
parched  with  thirst,  left  the  line  of  march,  and  scram- 
bled down  the  bank  of  the  river  to  drink.  The  bank 
was  overhung  with  willows,  beneath  which,  to  their 
surprise,  they  beheld  a  man  fishing.  No  sooner  did 
he  see  them,  than  he  uttered  an  exclamation  of  joy. 
It  proved  to  be  John  Hoback,  one  of  their  lost  com- 
rades. They  had  scarcely  exchanged  greetings,  when 
three  other  men  came  out  from  among  the  willows. 
They  were  Joseph  Miller,  Jacob  Rezner,  and  Robin- 
son, the  scalped  Kentuckian,  the  veteran  of  the  Bloody 
Ground. 


I       ii 


4- 


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t 


i 


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l/'if: 


■  tm 


i^iiup: 


■MBI 


'■(.,.. 


I  raw 


_  J. ,-  -  —- *.-^; 


352 


ASTORIA 


The  reader  will  i)erhaps  recollect  the  abrupt  and 
wilful  manner  in  which  Mr.  Miller  threw  up  his  in- 
terest as  a  partner  of  the  company,  and  departed  from 
Fort  Henry,  in  company  with  these  three  trappers,  and 
a  fourth,  named  Cass.  He  may  likewise  recognize 
in  Robinson,  Rezner,  and  Hoback,  the  trio  of  Kentucky 
hunters  who  had  originally  been  in  the  service  of  Mr. 
Henry,  and  whom  Mr.  Hunt  found  floating  down  the 
Missouri  on  their  way  homeward ;  and  prevailed  upon, 
once  more,  to  cross  the  mountains.  The  haggard  looks 
and  naked  condition  of  these  men  proved  how  much 
they  had  suffered.  After  leaving  Mr.  Hunt's  party, 
they  had  made  their  way  about  two  hundred  miles  to 
the  southward,  where  they  trapped  beaver  on  a  river 
which,  according  to  their  account,  discharged  itself 
into  the  ocean  to  the  south  of  the  Columbia,  but  which 
we  apprehend  to  be  Bear  River,  a  stream  emptying 
itself  into  Lake  Bonneville,  an  immense  body  of  salt 
water,  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Having  collected  a  considerable  quantity  of  beaver 
skins,  they  made  them  into  packs,  loaded  their  horses. 
and  steered  two  hundred  miles  due  east.  Here  they 
came  upon  an  encampment  of  sixty  lodges  of  Ara- 
pahays,  an  outlawed  band  of  the  Arrapahoes,  and  no- 
torious robbers.  These  fell  upon  the  poor  trappers; 
robbed  them  of  their  peltries,  most  of  their  clothing, 
and  several  of  their  horses.  They  were  glad  to  escape 
with  their  lives,  and  without  being  entirely  stripped, 
and  after  proceeding  about  fifty  miles  further,  made 
their  halt  for  the  winter. 

Early  in  the  spring  they  resumed  their  wayfaring, 
but  were  unluckily  overtaken  by  the  same  ruffian  horde, 
who  levied  still  further  contributions,  and  carried  off 
the  remainder  of  their  horses,  excepting  two.  With 
these  they  continued  on,  suffering  the  greatest  hard- 
ships. They  still  retained  rifles  and  ammunition,  but 
were  in  a  desert  country,  where  neither  bird  nor  beast 


ASTORIA 


353 


t  and 
lis  in- 
.  from 
s,  and 
Dgnize 
itucky 
)f  Mr. 
vn  the 

upon, 
I  looks 

much 

party, 

liles  to 

1  river 

itself 

which 
iptying 
of  salt 

1  beaver 
lorses, 
they 
Ara- 
nd  no- 
Lppers ; 
Dthing, 
escape 
ripped, 
made 

taring, 
Ihorde, 
ted  off 
With 
hard- 
|n,  but 
beast 


was  to  be  found.  Their  only  chance  was  to  keep  along 
the  rivers  and  subsist  by  fishing;  but  at  times  no  fish 
were  to  be  taken,  and  then  their  sufferings  were  horrible. 
One  of  their  horses  was  stolen  among  the  mountains 
by  the  Snake  Indians ;  the  other,  they  said,  was  carried 
off  by  Cass,  who,  according  to  their  account,  "  vil- 
lainously left  them  in  their  extremities."  Certain  dark 
doubts  and  surmises  were  afterwards  circulated  con- 
cerning the  fate  of  that  poor  fellow,  which,  if  true, 
showed  to  what  a  desperate  state  of  famine  his  com- 
rades had  been  reduced. 

Being  now  completely  unhorsed,  Mr.  Miller  and  his 
three  companions  wandered  on  foot  for  several  hun- 
dred miles,  enduring  hunger,  thirst,  and  fatigue,  while 
traversing  the  barren  wastes  which  abound  beyond  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  At  the  time  they  were  discovered 
by  Mr.  Stuart's  party,  they  were  almost  famished, 
and  were  fishing  for  a  precarious  meal.  Had  Mr. 
Stuart  made  the  short  cut  across  the  hills,  avoiding 
this  bend  of  the  river,  or  had  not  some  of  his  party 
accidentally  gone  down  to  the  margin  of  the  stream 
to  drink,  these  poor  wanderers  might  have  remained 
undiscovered,  and  have  perished  in  the  wilderness. 
Nothing  could  exceed  their  joy  on  thus  meeting  wath 
their  old  comrades,  or  the  heartiness  with  which  they 
were  welcomed.  All  hands  immediately  encamped; 
and  the  slender  stores  of  the  party  were  ransacked  to 
furnish  out  a  suitable  regale. 

The  next  morning  they  all  set  out  together;  Mr. 
Miller  and  his  comrades  being  resolved  to  give  up  the 
Hfe  of  a  trapper,  and  accompany  Mr.  Stuart  back  to 
St.  Louis. 

For  several  days  they  kept  along  the  course  of  Snake 
River,  occasionally  making  short  cuts  across  hills  and 
promontories,  where  there  were  bends  in  the  stream. 
In  their  way  they  passed  several  camps  of  Shoshonies, 
from  some  of  whom  they  procured  salmon,   but  in 

23 


^ 


li 


jl    u 


354 


ASTORIA 


y 


'■t»^ 


W3 


general  they  were  too  wretchedly  poor  to  furnish 
anything.  It  was  the  wish  of  Mr.  Stuart  to  pur- 
chase horses  for  the  recent  recruits  of  his  party;  but 
the  Indians  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  part  with 
any,  alleging  that  they  had  not  enough  for  their 
own  use. 

On  the  25th  of  August  they  reached  a  great  fishing 
place,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  the  Salmon 
Falls.  Here  there  is  a  perpendicular  fall  of  twenty 
feet  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  while  on  the  south 
side  there  is  a  succession  of  rapids.  The  salmon  are 
taken  here  in  incredible  quantities,  as  they  attempt  to 
shoot  the  falls.  It  was  now  a  favorable  season,  and 
there  were  about  one  hundred  lodges  of  Shoshonies 
busily  engaged  killing  and  drying  fish.  The  salmon 
begin  to  leap  shortly  after  sunrise.  At  this  time  the 
Indians  swim  to  the  centre  of  the  falls,  where  some 
station  themselves  on  rocks,  and  others  stand  to  their 
waists  in  the  water,  all  armed  with  spears,  with  which 
they  assail  the  salmon  as  they  attempt  to  leap,  or  fall 
back  exhausted.  It  is  an  incessant  slaughter,  so  great 
is  the  throng  of  the  fish. 

The  construction  of  the  spears  thus  used  is  peculiar. 
The  head  is  a  straight  piece  of  elk  horn,  about  seven 
inches  long,  on  the  point  of  which  an  artificial  barb 
is  made  fast,  with  twine  well  gummed.  The  head  is 
stuck  on  the  end  of  the  shaft,  a  very  long  pole  of  wil- 
low, to  which  it  is  likewise  connected  by  a  strong  cord, 
a  few  inches  in  length.  When  the  spearsman  makes 
a  sure  blow,  he  often  strikes  the  head  of  the  spear 
through  the  body  of  the  fish.  It  comes  off  easily,  and 
leaves  the  salmon  struggling  with  the  string  through 
its  body,  while  the  pole  is  still  held  by  the  spearsman. 
Were  it  not  for  the  precaution  of  the  string,  the  willow 
shaft  would  be  snapped  by  the  struggles  and  the  weight 
of  the  fish.  Mr.  Miller,  in  the  course  of  his  wander- 
ings, had  been  at  these  falls,  and  had  seen  several  thou- 


ASTORIA 


355 


A/ 


iirnish 
0  pur- 
y;  but 
rt  with 
r   their 

fishing 
Salmon 
twenty 
e  south 
ion  are 
inipt  to 
Dn,  and 
)shonies 
salmon 
ime  the 
re  some 
to  their 
h  which 
,  or  fall 
o  great 

leculiar. 
Lit  seven 
lial  barb 
head  is 
of  wil- 
ig  cord, 
makes 
le  spear 
;ily,  and 
[through 
larsman. 
willow 
weight 
Iwander- 
lal  thou- 


sand salmon  taken  in  the  course  of  one  afternoon.  He 
declared  that  he  had  seen  a  salmon  leap  a  distance  of 
about  thirty  feet,  from  the  commencement  of  the  foam 
at  the  foot  of  the  fall,  completely  to  the  top. 

Having  purchased  a  good  supply  of  salmon  from 
the  fishermen,  the  party  resumed  their  journey,  and 
on  the  twenty-ninth,  arrived  at  the  Caldron  Linn,  the 
eventful  scene  of  the  preceding  autumn.  Here,  the 
first  thing  that  met  their  eyes  was  a  memento  of  the 
perplexities  of  that  period ;  the  wreck  of  a  canoe, 
lodged  between  two  ledges  of  rocks.  They  endeavored 
to  get  down  to  it,  but  the  river  banks  were  too  high 
and  precipitous. 

They  now  proceeded  to  that  part  of  the  neighbor- 
hood where  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  had  made  the 
caches,  intending  to  take  from  them  such  articles  as 
belonged  to  Mr.  Crooks,  M'Lellan,  and  the  Canadians. 
On  reaching  the  spot,  they  found,  to  their  astonish- 
ment, six  of  the  caches  open  and  rifled  of  their  con- 
tents, excepting  a  few  books  which  lay  scattered  about 
the  vicinity.  They  had  the  appearance  of  having  been 
plundered  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  There  were 
tracks  of  wolves  in  every  direction,  to  and  from  the 
holes,  from  which  Mr.  Stuart  concluded  that  these 
animals  had  first  been  attracted  to  the  place  by  the 
smell  of  the  skins  contained  in  the  caches,  which  they 
had  probably  torn  up,  and  that  their  tracks  had  be- 
trayed the  secret  to  the  Indians. 

The  three  remaining  caches  had  not  been  molested : 
they  contained  a  few  dry  goods,  some  ammunition, 
and  a  number  of  beaver  traps.  From  these  Mr.  Stuart 
took  whatever  was  requisite  for  his  party;  he  then 
deposited  within  them  all  his  superfluous  baggage,  and 
all  the  books  and  papers  scattered  around;  the  holes 
were  then  carefully  closed  up,  and  all  traces  of  them 
effaced.  And  here  we  have  to  record  another  instance 
of  the  indomitable  spirit  of  the  western  trappers.     No 


M 


356 


ASTORIA 


■m 


sooner  did  the  trio  of  Kentucky  hunters,  Rohinson, 
Rezner,  and  Hoback,  find  that  they  could  once  more 
be  fitted  out  for  a  campaign  of  beaver  trapping,  than 
they  forgot  all  that  they  had  suffered,  and  determined 
upon  another  trial  of  their  fortunes;  preferring  to 
take  their  chance  in  the  wilderness,  rather  than  return 
home  ragged  and  penniless.  As  to  Mr.  Miller,  he 
declared  his  curiosity  and  his  desire  of  travelling 
through  the  Indian  countries  fully  satisfied ;  he  ad- 
hered to  his  detennination,  therefore,  to  keep  on  with 
the  party  to  St.  Louis,  and  to  return  to  the  bosom  of 
civilized  society. 

The  three  hunters,  therefore,  Robinson,  Rezner,  and 
Hoback,  were  furnished,  as  far  as  the  caches  and  the 
means  of  Mr.  Stuart's  party  afforded,  with  the  requi- 
site munitions  and  equipments  for  a  "  two  years' 
hunt";  but  as  their  fitting  out  was  yet  incomplete, 
they  resolved  to  wait  in  this  neighborhood  until  Mr. 
Reed  should  arrive;  whose  arrival  might  soon  be 
expected,  as  he  was  to  set  out  for  the  caches  about 
twenty  days  after  Mr.  Stuart  parted  with  him  at  the 
Wallah- Wallah  River. 

Mr.  Stuart  gave  in  charge  to  Robinson  a  letter  to 
Mr.  Reed,  reporting  his  safe  journey  thus  far,  and  the 
state  in  which  he  had  found  the  caches.  A  duplicate 
of  this  letter  he  elevated  on  a  pole,  and  set  it  up  near 
the  place  of  deposit. 

All  things  being  thus  arranged,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his 
little  band,  now  seven  in  number,  took  leave  of  the 
three  hardy  trappers,  wishing  them  all  possible  success 
in  their  lonely  and  perilous  sojourn  in  the  wilderness; 
and  we,  in  like  manner,  shall  leave  them  to  their  for- 
tunes, promising  to  take  them  up  again  at  some  future 
page,  and  to  close  the  story  of  their  persevering  and 
ill-fated  enterprise. 


ASTORIA 


357 


f 


er  to 
d  the 
Dlicate 
near 


CHAPTER    XLV 

On  the  ist  of  September,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  com- 
panions resumed  their  journey,  benchng  their  course 
eastward,  along  the  course  of  Snake  River.  As  they 
advanced,  the  country  opened.  The  hills  which  had 
hemmed  in  the  river  receded  on  either  hand,  and 
great  sandy  and  dusty  plains  extended  before  them. 
Occasionally  there  were  intervals  of  pasturage,  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  were  fringed  with  willows  and 
cotton-wood,  so  that  its  course  might  be  traced  from 
the  hill-tops,  winding  under  an  umbrageous  covert, 
through  a  wide  sunburnt  landscape.  The  soil,  how- 
ever, was  generally  poor;  there  was  in  some  places  a 
miserable  growth  of  wormwood,  and  a  plant  called 
saltweed,  resembling  pennyroyal ;  but  the  summer  had 
parched  the  plains,  and  left  but  little  pasturage.  The 
game,  too,  had  disappeared.  The  hunter  looked  in 
vain  over  the  lifeless  landscape;  now  and  then  a  few 
antelope  might  be  seen,  but  not  within  reach  of  the 
rifle.  We  forbear  to  follow  the  travellers  in  a  week's 
wandering  over  these  barren  wastes,  where  they  suf- 
fered much  from  hunger,  having  to  depend  upon  a 
few  fish  from  the  streams,  and  now  and  then  a  little 
dried  salmon,  or  a  dog,  procured  from  some  forlorn 
lodge  of  Shoshonies. 

Tired  of  these  cheerless  wastes,  they  left  the  banks 
of  Snake  River  on  the  7th  of  September,  under  guid- 
ance of  Mr.  Miller,  who  having  acquired  some  knowl- 
edge of  the  country  during  his  trapping  campaign, 
undertook  to  conduct  them  across  the  mountains  by 
a  better  route  than  that  by  Fort  Henry,  and  one  more 
out  of  the  range  of  the  Blackfeet.  He  proved,  how- 
ever, but  an  indifferent  guide,  and  they  soon  became 
bewildered  among  rugged  hills  and  unknown  streams, 
and  burnt  and  barren  prairies. 


358 


ASTORIA 


ii 


f-      I* 


H.6 


I 

t 


At  length  they  came  to  a  river  on  which  Mr.  Miller 
had  trapped,  and  to  which  they  gave  his  name;  though, 
as  before  observed,  we  presume  it  to  be  the  same 
called  Bear  River,  which  empties  itself  into  Lake 
Bonneville.  Up  this  river  and  its  branches  they  kept 
for  two  or  three  days,  supporting  themselves  precari- 
ously upon  fish.  They  soon  found  that  they  v/ere  in  a 
dangerous  neighborhood.  On  the  12th  of  September, 
having  encamped  early,  they  sallied  forth  with  their 
rods  to  angle  for  their  supper.  On  returning,  they 
beheld  a  number  of  Indians  prowling  about  their  camp, 
whom,  to  their  infinite  disquiet,  they  soon  perceived 
to  be  Upsarokas,  or  Crows.  Their  chief  came  for- 
ward with  a  confident  air.  He  was  a  dark  herculean 
fellow,  full  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  with  a  min- 
gled air  of  the  ruffian  and  the  rogue.  He  conducted 
himself  peaceably,  however,  and  dispatched  some  of 
his  people  to  their  camp,  which  was  somewhere  in  the 
neighborhood,  from  whence  they  returned  with  a  most 
acceptable  supply  of  buffalo  meat.  He  now  signified 
to  Mr.  Stuart  that  he  was  going  to  trade  with  the 
Snakes  who  reside  on  the  west  base  of  the  mountains, 
below  Henry's  Fort.  Here  they  cultivate  a  delicate 
kind  of  tobacco,  much  esteemed  and  sought  after  by 
the  mountain  tribes.  There  was  a  something  sinister, 
however,  in  the  look  of  this  Indian,  that  inspired  dis- 
trust. By  degrees,  the  number  of  his  people  increased, 
until,  by  midnight,  there  were  twenty-one  of  them 
about  the  camp,  who  began  to  be  impudent  and  trouble- 
some. The  greatest  uneasiness  was  now  felt  for  the 
safety  of  the  horses  and  effects,  and  every  one  kept 
vigilant  watch  throughout  the  night. 

The  morning  dawned,  however,  without  any  un- 
pleasant occurrence,  and  Mr.  Stuart,  having  purchased 
all  the  buffalo  meat  that  the  Crows  had  to  spare,  pre- 
pared to  depart.  His  Indian  acquaintances,  however, 
were  disposed   for  further  dealings;    and  above  all, 


ASTORIA 


359 


Miller 
loiigh, 
same 
Lake 
^  kept 
recari- 
-e  in  a 
smber, 
1  their 
:,  they 
camp, 
•ceived 
le  for- 
■culean 
a  m in- 
ducted 
)me  of 
in  the 
a  most 
gnified 
ith  the 
ntains, 
lelicate 
Fter  by 
inister, 
ed  dis- 
reased, 
them 
rouble- 
or  the 
le  kept 

ly  un- 
chased 
e,  pre- 
iwever, 
ve  all, 


anxious  for  a  supply  of  gunpowder,  for  which  they 
offered  horses  in  exchange.  Mr.  Stuart  declined  to 
furnish  them  with  the  dangerous  commodity.  They 
became  more  importunate  in  their  solicitations,  until 
they  met  with  a  flat  refusal. 

The  gigantic  chief  now  stepped  forward,  assumed 
a  swelling  air,  and,  slapping  himself  upon  the  breast, 
gave  Mr.  Crooks  to  understand  that  he  was  a  chief 
of  great  power  and  importance.  He  signified,  further, 
that  it  was  customary  for  great  chiefs  when  they  met, 
to  make  each  other  presents.  He  requested,  therefore, 
that  Mr.  Stuart  would  alight,  and  give  him  the  horse 
upon  which  he  was  mounted.  This  was  a  noble  ani- 
mal, of  one  of  the  wild  races  of  the  prairies;  on  which 
Mr.  Stuart  set  great  value;  he,  of  course,  shook  his 
head  at  the  request  of  the  Crow  dignitary.  Upon  this 
the  latter  strode  up  to  him,  and  taking  hold  of  him, 
moved  him  backwards  and  forwards  in  his  saddle, 
as  if  to  make  him  feel  that  he  was  a  mere  child  within 
his  grasp.  Mr.  Stuart  preserved  his  calmness,  and  still 
shook  his  head.  The  chief  then  seized  the  bridle,  and 
gave  it  a  jerk  that  startled  the  horse,  and  nearly 
brought  the  rider  to  the  ground.  Mr.  Stuart  instantly 
drew  forth  a  pistol,  and  presented  it  at  the  head  -of 
the  bully-ruffian.  In  a  twinkling  his  swaggering  w^as 
at  an  end,  and  he  dodged  behind  his  horse  to  escape 
the  expected  shot.  As  his  subject  Crows  gazed  on 
the  affray  from  a  little  distance,  Mr.  Stuart  ordered 
his  men  to  level  their  rifles  at  them,  but  not  to  fire. 
The  whole  crew  scampered  among  the  bushes,  and 
throwing  themselves  upon  the  ground,  vanished  from 
sight. 

The  chieftain  thus  left  alone,  was  confounded  for 
an  instant;  but,  recovering  himself  with  true  Indian 
shrewdness,  burst  into  a  loud  laugh,  and  affected  to 
turn  off  the  whole  matter  as  a  piece  of  pleasantry. 
Mr.  Stuart  by  no  means  relished  such  equivocal  jok- 


i 


fii 


P 


360 


ASTORIA 


ing-,  but  it  was  not  liis  policy  to  ^ei  into  a  quarrel ;  so 
he  joined  with  the  best  grace  he  could  assume  in  the 
merriment  of  the  jocular  giant;  and,  to  console  the 
latter  for  the  refusal  of  the  horse,  made  him  a  present 
of  twenty  charges  of  powder.  They  parted,  accord- 
ing to  all  outward  professions,  the  best  friends  in  the 
world;  it  was  evident,  however,  that  nothing  but  the 
smallness  of  his  own  force,  and  the  martial  array  and 
alertness  of  the  white  men,  had  prevented  the  Crow 
chief  from  proceeding  to  open  outrage.  As  it  was, 
his  worthy  followers,  in  the  course  of  tlieir  brief  inter- 
view, had  contrived  to  purloin  a  bag  containing  almost 
all  the  culinary  utensils  of  the  party. 

The  travellers  kept  on  their  way  due  east,  over  a 
chain  of  hills.  The  recent  rencontre  showed  them  that 
they  were  now  in  a  land  of  danger,  subject  to  the  wide 
roamings  of  a  predaceous  tribe ;  nor,  in  fact,  had  they 
gone  many  miles,  before  they  beheld  sights  calculated 
to  inspire  anxiety  and  alarm.  From  the  summits  of 
some  of  the  loftiest  mountains,  in  different  directions, 
columns  of  smoke  began  to  rise.  These  they  concluded 
to  be  signals  made  by  the  runners  of  the  Crow  chief- 
tain, to  summon  the  stragglers  of  his  band,  so  as  to 
pursue  them  with  greater  force.  Signals  of  this  kind, 
made  by  out-runners  from  one  central  point,  will  rouse 
a  wide  circuit  of  the  mountains  in  a  wonderfully  short 
space  of  time;  and  bring  the  straggling  hunters  and 
warriors  to  the  standard  of  their  chieftain. 

To  keep  as  much  as  possible  out  of  the  way  of  these 
freebooters,  Mr.  Stuart  altered  his  course  to  the  north, 
and,  quitting  the  main  stream  of  Miller's  River,  kept 
up  a  large  branch  that  came  in  from  the  mountains. 
Here  they  encamped,  after  a  fatiguing  march  of 
twenty-five  miles.  As  the  night  drew  on  the  horses 
were  hobbled  or  fettered,  and  tethered  close  to  the 
camp;  a  vigilant  watch  was  maintained  until  morn- 
ing, and  every  one  slept  with  his  rifle  on  his  arm. 


ASTORIA 


361 


I 


these 
lorth, 

kept 
(tains. 
Ih  of 
lorses 
the 

lorn- 


At  sunrise,  they  were  again  on  the  march,  still  keep- 
ing to  the  north.  They  soon  began  to  ascend  tlie 
mountains,  and  occasionally  had  wide  prosi)ects  over 
the  surrounding  country.  Not  a  sign  of  a  Crow  w'as 
to  be  seen ;  but  this  did  not  assure  them  of  their  se- 
curity, well  knowing  the  perseverance  of  these  savages 
in  dogging  any  party  they  intend  to  rob,  and  the 
stealthy  way  in  which  they  can  conceal  their  move- 
ments, keeping  along  ravines  and  defiles.  After  a 
mountain  scramble  of  twenty-one  miles,  they  encamped 
on  the  margin  of  a  stream  running  to  the  north. 

In  the  evening  there  was  an  alarm  of  Indians,  and 
every  one  was  instantly  on  the  alert.  They  proved  to 
be  three  miserable  Snakes,  who  were  no  sooner  in- 
formed that  a  band  of  Crows  was  prowling  in  the 
neighborhood,  than  they  made  off  with  great  signs  of 
consternation. 

A  couple  more  of  weary  days  and  watchful  nights 
brought  them  to  a  strong  and  rapid  stream,  running 
due  north,  which  they  concluded  to  be  one  of  the  upper 
branches  of  Snake  River.  It  was  probably  the  same 
since  called  Salt  River. 

They  determined  to  bend  their  course  down  this 
river,  as  it  would  take  them  still  further  out  of  the 
dangerous  neighborhood  of  the  Crows.  They  then 
would  strike  upon  Mr.  Hunt's  track  of  the  preceding 
autumn,  and  retrace  it  across  the  mountains.  The 
attempt  to  find  a  better  route  under  guidance  of  Mr. 
Miller  had  cost  them  a  large  bend  to  the  south ;  in 
resuming  Mr.  Hunt's  track,  they  would  at  least  be 
sure  of  their  road.  They  accordingly  turned  down 
along  the  course  of  this  stream  and  at  the  end  of  three 
days'  journey,  came  to  where  it  was  joined  by  a 
larger  river,  and  assumed  a  more  impetuous  character, 
raging  and  roaring  among  rocks  and  precipices.  It 
proved,  in  fact,  to  be  Mad  River,  already  noted  in  the 
expedition  of  Mr.  Hunt.     On  the  banks  of  this  river, 


)  i 


J    .1 


I  m 


%0, 


362 


ASTORIA 


they  encamped  on  the  i8th  of  September,  at  an  early 
hour. 

Six  days  had  now  elapsed  since  their  interview  with 
the  Crows;  during  that  time  they  had  come  nearly  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  north  and  west,  without 
seeing  any  signs  of  those  marauders.  They  considered 
themselves,  therefore,  beyond  the  reach  of  molestation, 
and  began  to  relax  in  their  vigilance,  lingering  oc- 
casionally for  part  of  a  day,  where  there  was  good 
pasturage.     The  poor  horses  needed  repose. 

They  had  been  urged  on,  by  forced  marches,  over 
rugged  heights,  among  rocks  and  fallen  timber,  or 
over  low  swampy  valleys,  inundated  by  the  labors  of 
the  beaver.  These  industrious  animals  abounded  in 
all  the  mountain  streams  and  water-courses,  wherever 
'lere  were  willows  for  their  subsistence.     Many  of 

an  they  had  so  completely  dammed  up  as  to  inundate 
.  .e  low  grounds,  making  shallow  pools  or  lakes,  and 
extensive  quagmires ;  by  which  the  route  of  the  travel- 
lers was  often  impeded. 

On  the  19th  of  September,  they  rose  at  early  dawn; 
some  began  to  prepare  breakfast,  and  others  to  arrange 
the  packs  preparatory  to  a  march.  The  horses  had 
been  hobbled,  but  left  at  large  to  graze  upon  the  ad- 
jacent pasture.  Mr.  Stuart  was  on  the  bank  of  a 
river,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  when  he  heard 
the  alarm  cry  —  "  Indians !  Indians !  —  to  arms !  to 
arms ! " 

A  mounted  Crow  galloped  past  the  camp,  bearing 
a  red  flag.  He  reined  his  steed  on  the  summit  of  a 
neighboring  knoll,  and  waved  his  flaring  banner.  A 
diabolical  yell  now  broke  forth  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  camp,  beyond  where  the  horses  were  grazing,  and 
a  small  troop  of  savages  came  galloping  up,  whooping 
and  making  a  terrific  clamor.  The  horses  took  fright, 
and  dashed  across  the  camp  in  the  direction  of  the 
standard-bearer,    attracted   by   his   waving   flag.      He 


a  early 

w  with 
early  a 
without 
Lsidered 
;station, 
ing  oc- 
is  good 

es,  over 
iher,  or 
ibors  of 
nded  in 
/herever 
lany  of 
inundate 
kes,  and 
e  travel- 

y  dawn ; 
arrange 
•ses  had 
the  ad- 
ik  of  a 
le  heard 
rms !    to 

bearing 
bit  of  a 
Iner.     A 
side  of 
and 


ASTORIA 


363 


cr 


ng, 

|hoopin 

fright, 

of  the 

He 


&• 


instantly  put  spurs  to  his  steed,  and  scoured  off  fol- 
lowed by  the  panic-stricken  herd,  their  fright  being 
increased  by  the  yells  of  the  savages  in  their  rear. 

At  the  first  alarm,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades 
had  seized  their  rifles,  and  attempted  to  cut  off  the 
Indians  who  were  pursuing  the  horses.  Their  atten- 
tion was  instantly  distracted  by  whoops  and  yells  in 
an  opposite  direction. 

They  now  apprehended  that  a  reserve  party  was 
about  to  carry  off  their  baggage.  They  ran  to  secure 
it.  The  reserve  party,  however,  galloped  by,  whoop- 
ing and  yelling  in  triumph  and  derision.  The  last  of 
them  proved  to  be  their  commander,  the  identical  giant 
joker  already  mentioned.  He  was  not  cast  in  the 
stern  poetical  mould  of  fashionable  Indian  heroism, 
but  on  the  contrary,  was  grievously  given  to  vulgar 
jocularity.  As  he  passed  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  com- 
panions, he  checked  his  horse,  raised  himself  in  the 
saddle,  and  clapping  his  hand  on  the  most  insulting 
part  of  his  body,  uttered  some  jeering  words,  which, 
fortunately  for  their  delicacy,  they  could  not  under- 
stand. The  rifle  of  Ben  Jones  was  levelled  in  an 
instant,  and  he  was  on  the  point  of  whizzing  a  bullet 
into  the  target  so  tauntingly  displayed.  "  Not  for 
your  life!  not  for  your  life!"  exclaimed  Mr.  Stuart, 
"  you  will  bring  destruction  on  us  all !  " 

It  was  hard  to  restrain  honest  Ben,  when  the  mark 
was  so  fair  and  the  insult  so  foul.  "  O,  Mr.  Stuart," 
exclaimed  he,  "  only  let  me  have  one  crack  at  the 
infernal  rascal,  and  you  may  keep  all  the  pay  that  is  due 
to  me." 

"  By  heaven,  if  you  fire,"  cried  Mr.  Stuart,  "  I  '11 
blow  your  brains  out." 

By  this  time  the  Indian  was  far  out  of  reach,  and 
had  rejoined  his  men,  and  the  whole  daredevil  band, 
with  the  captured  horses,  scuttled  off  along  the  defiles, 
their  red   flag   flaunting   over   head,    and   the   rocks 


364 


ASTORIA 


echoing  to  their  whoops  and  yells,  and  demoniac 
laughter. 

The  unhorsed  travellers  gazed  after  them  in  silent 
mortification  and  despair;  yet  Mr.  Stuart  could  not 
but  admire  the  style  and  spirit  with  which  the  whole 
exploit  had  been  managed,  and  pronounced  it  one  of 
the  most  daring  and  intrepid  actions  he  had  ever  heard 
of  among  Indians.  The  whole  number  of  the  Crows 
did  not  exceed  twenty.  In  this  way  a  small  gang  of 
lurkers  will  hurry  off  the  cavalry  of  a  large  war  party, 
for  when  once  a  drove  of  horses  are  seized  with  panic, 
they  become  frantic,  and  nothing  short  of  broken  necks 
can  stop  them. 

No  one  was  more  annoyed  by  this  unfortunate  oc- 
currence than  Ben  Jones.  He  declared  he  would 
actually  have  given  his  whole  arrears  of  pay,  amount- 
ing to  upwards  of  a  year's  wages,  rather  than  be  balked 
of  such  a  capital  shot.  Mr.  Stuart,  however,  repre- 
sented what  might  have  been  the  consequence  of  so 
rash  an  act.  Life  for  life  is  the  Indian  maxim.  The 
whole  tribe  would  have  made  common  cause  in 
avenging  the  death  of  a  warrior.  The  party  were  but 
seven  dismounted  men,  with  a  wide  mountain  region 
to  traverse,  infested  by  these  people,  and  which  might 
all  be  roused  by  signal-fires.  In  fact,  the  conduct  of 
the  band  of  marauders  in  question,  showed  the  perse- 
verance of  savages  when  once  they  have  fixed  their 
minds  upon  a  project.  These  fellows  had  evidently 
been  silently  and  secretly  dogging  the  party  for  a  week 
past,  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
keeping  out  of  sight  by  day,  lurking  about  the  encamp- 
ment at  night,  watching  all  their  movements,  and  wait- 
ing for  a  favorable  moment  when  they  should  be  ofiF 
their  guard.  The  menace  of  Mr.  Stuart,  in  their  first 
interview,  to  shoot  the  giant  chief  with  his  pistol,  and 
the  fright  caused  among  the  warriors  by  presenting  the 
rifles,  had  probably  added  the  stimulus  of  pique  to  their 


<5. 


1^^ 


Vi.<>. 


'/. 


d<^ 


-^'^ 


^ 

c 


Tioniac 

I  silent 
lid  not 

whole 
one  of 
r  heard 

Crows 
ang  of 
:  party, 
1  panic, 
n  necks 

late  oc- 
would 
imount- 
i  balked 
,  repre- 
p  of  so 
1.     The 
luse    in 
ere  but 
region 
might 
duct  of 
perse- 
;d  their 
/idently 
a  week 
miles, 
ncamp- 
d  wait- 
l  be  oflE 
eir  first 
ol,  and 
ing  the 
to  their 


^  c> 


^    ^^   O 


<^  '^  Oo  9-  ^  'o  ^^'^ 

horses,  he  would 

the   Pacific  side 

»      iv^  -,   ^       ^  '>k  ->  ,1.  '>r       ^   ^>  ^     -"  the  head  waters  of 

\  1  V  ^  '^'^ .1^  "^  "i  -^  ""n      %'''^  ^^^"^  obsen^ed  in  taking 

'^'^v   '^Oj'^'^l^^y^^'^i      '^s  not  absolutely  necessary, 

^"^  -;:•' Si.'^ '$'  ^  ^^  "^ '^ '^•^.^^    -^'^  heavily   laden,    and   their 

%%.^  <:!%y^%>  %%%,^-<atigues  of  their  rugged  road. 

^'i''%>1j''o'c>%'^'^'^V'^^^°'    ^^°""^   hunger.     The  trout 

t"^  "^    ^  ^  "^  *o  ^  ^  *    %  "^poo^  ^^  yield  much  nourishment ; 

V,'^  ^^    %\  ^"^^^^ence,    therefore,   was  upon  an   old 

1%%^  %^^^.^'^^W^-^  ^^^^y  ^^^  providentially  retained. 
'^,  <i    ^  <^'^^'\%  ^'^Q^^w^ere   fortunate  enough   to  entrap  a 


^  ^.  -e.'^^  •<> 


^<^  '«>  ^ 


r>'^  '^  ^5  ^  ^.^ut  up  immediately  and  distributed,  that 


'^  ^  ?o.  1p  '^^^  '^^^  '^^  '^^  '5'ht  carry  his  share 


.^.. 


J  La 


.-■  '^^  o^^  9\  "^  $b  days  of  toilsome  travel,  during  which 

'v\  %  ^    <^%  t^'^t)^^^  eighteen  miles,  they  stopped  on  the  2ist, 

%.<^'^ ^  ^  'C5  '^  9wo  rafts  on  which  to  cross  to  the  north  side 

^%  ^   "^  ?^  "^  <^'er.    On  these  they  embarked,  on  the  following 

'^o.<^*%  ^  %*^^^   ^oi-^'"  o"  one  raft,  and  three  on  the  other, 

r<  ^'    ^"^^."^  .^jushed  boldly  from  shore.     Finding  the  rafts  suf- 

"^  ^  "^  %  Cntly  firm  and  steady  to  withstand  the  rough  and 

'^  ^^  d   pid  water,  they  changed  their  minds,  and  instead  of 

crrossing,   ventured   to   float   down   with  the   current. 

•^  <^  The  river  was,  in  general,  very  rapid,  and  from  one 

I    ^3   '     to  two  hundred  yards  in  width,  winding  in  every  di- 

W      J      rection  through  mountains  of  hard  black  rock,  covered 

I     /      with  pines  and  cedar^ .     The  mountains  to  the  east  of 

I  /        the  river  were  spurs  of  the  Rocky  range,  and  of  great 

1/  magnitude;    those  on  the  west  were  little  better  than 

hills,  bleak  and  barren,  or  scantily  clothed  with  stunted 

grass. 

Mad  River,  though  deserving  its  name  from  the 
impetuosity  of  its  current,  was  free  from  rapids  and 
cascades,  and  flowed  on  in  a  single  channel  between 
gravel  banks,  often  fringed  with  cotton-wood  and 
dwarf  willows  in  abundance.     These  gave  sustenance 


\  \ 


ill 


I^^S 


364 


ASTORIA 


.  '  kl 


in 


i»     'It 


•|  : 


echoing  to  their  ^\As  he  continued  on,  he  now  and 
laughter.  the  heads  were  still  there,  looking 

The  unhorsed  travehatchful  gaze.  A  suspicion  now 
mortification  and  despail  that  they  might  be  Indian 
but  admire  the  style  and  '  been  far  above  the  reach  of 
exploit  had  been  managed, ^dly  have  regaled  them  with 
the  most  daring  and  intrepid 

of  among  Indians.  The  whohe  directed  the  attention 
did  not  exceed  twenty.  In  thii  observers.  The  same 
lurkers  will  hurry  off  the  cavalry  at  they  were  wolves ; 
for  when  once  a  drove  of  horses  a.  soon  satisfied  every 
they  become  frantic,  and  nothing  shtvas  concluded  that 
can  stop  them.  of  the  party,  to 

No  one  was  more  annoyed  by  this"  such  articles  as 
currence  than  Ben  Jones.  He  decla<l.  There  was 
actually  have  given  his  whole  arrears  of  pe'the  search 
ing  to  upwards  of  a  year's  wages,  rather  thqiagers,  and 
of  such  a  capital  shot.  Mr.  Stuart,  howeoty  should 
sented  what  might  have  been  the  consequenherefore 
rash  an  act.  Life  for  life  is  the  Indian  maxiiicles  de- 
whole  tribe  would  have  made  common  cauo-  that 
avenging  the  death  of  a  warrior.  The  party  wer<)nfire 
seven  dismounted  men,  with  a  wide  mountain  reg  the 
to  traverse,  infested  by  these  people,  and  which  migl^- 
all  be  roused  by  signal-fires.  In  fact,  the  conduct  o^^ 
the  band  of  marauders  in  question,  showed  the  perse- 
verance of  savages  when  once  they  have  fixed  their 
minds  upon  a  project.  These  fellows  had  evidently 
been  silently  and  secretly  dogging  the  party  for  a  week 
past,  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
keeping  out  of  sight  by  day,  lurking  about  the  encamp- 
ment at  night,  watching  all  their  movements,  and  wait- 
ing for  a  favorable  moment  when  they  should  be  off 
their  guard.  The  menace  of  Mr.  Stuart,  in  their  first 
interview,  to  shoot  the  giant  chief  with  his  pistol,  and 
the  fright  caused  among  the  warriors  by  presenting  the 
rifles,  had  probably  added  the  stimulus  of  pique  to  their 


ASTORIA 


Z^7 


w  and 
ooking 
m  now 
Indian 
;ach  of 
m  with 

tention 
e  same 
A^olves ; 
d  every 
ed  that 
irty,  to 
:icles  as 
ere  was 
:  search 
jrs,  and 
should 
erefore, 
cles  de- 
w  that 
er^nfire 
reg  the 
niig'-k- 

luCt   Ox. 

perse- 
Id  their 
^idently 
a  week 
miles, 
Incamp- 
|d  wait- 
be  off 
;ir  first 
[ol,  and 
ling  the 
(to  their 


Should  he  fail,  however,  of  obtaining  horses,  he  would 
probably  be  compelled  to  winter  on  the  Pacific  side 
of  the  mountains,  somewhere  on  the  head  waters  of 
the  Spanish  or  Colorado  River. 

With  all  the  care  that  had  been  obsen^ed  in  taking 
nothing  with  them  that  was  not  absolutely  necessary, 
the  poor  pedestrians  were  heavily  laden,  and  their 
burdens  added  to  the  fatigues  of  their  rugged  road. 
They  suffered  much,  too,  from  hunger.  The  trout 
they  caught  were  too  poor  to  yield  much  nourishment ; 
their  main  dependence,  therefore,  was  upon  an  old 
beaver  trap,  which  they  had  providentially  retained. 
Whenever  they  were  fortunate  enough  to  entrap  a 
beaver,  it  was  cut  up  immediately  and  distributed,  that 
each  man  might  carry  his  share. 

After  two  days  of  toilsome  travel,  during  which 
they  made  but  eighteen  miles,  they  stopped  on  the  21st, 
to  build  two  rafts  on  which  to  cross  to  the  north  side 
of  the  river.  On  these  they  embarked,  on  the  following 
morning,  four  on  one  raft,  and  three  on  the  other, 
and  pushed  boldly  from  shore.  Finding  the  rafts  suf- 
ficiently firm  and  steady  to  withstand  the  rough  and 
rapid  water,  they  changed  their  minds,  and  instead  of 
crossing,  ventured  to  float  down  with  the  current. 
The  river  was,  in  general,  very  rapid,  and  from  one 
to  two  hundred  yards  in  width,  winding  in  every  di- 
rection through  mountains  of  hard  black  rock,  covered 
with  pines  and  cedars.  The  mountains  to  the  east  of 
the  river  were  spurs  of  the  Rocky  range,  and  of  great 
magnitude;  those  on  the  west  were  little  better  than 
hills,  bleak  and  barren,  or  scantily  clothed  with  stunted 
grass. 

Mad  River,  though  deserving  its  name  from  the 
impetuosity  of  its  current,  was  free  from  rapids  and 
cascades,  and  flow'ed  on  in  a  single  channel  between 
gravel  banks,  often  fringed  with  cotton-wood  and 
dwarf  willows  in  abundance.     These  gave  sustenance 


M 


368 


ASTORIA 


ir*      ; «« 


■&. 


to  immense  quantities  of  beaver,  so  that  the  voyagers 
found  no  difficulty  in  procuring  food.  Ben  Jones,  also, 
killed  a  fallow  deer  and  a  wolverine,  and  as  they  were 
enabled  to  carry  the  carcasses  on  their  rafts,  their 
larder  was  well  supplied.  Indeed,  they  might  have  oc- 
casionally shot  beavers  that  were  swimming  in  the 
river  as  they  floated  by,  but  they  humanely  spared 
their  lives,  being  in  no  want  of  meat  at  the  time.  In 
this  way,  they  kept  down  the  river  for  three  days, 
drifting  with  tlie  current  and  encamping  on  land 
at  night,  when  they  drew  up  their  rafts  on  shore. 
Towards  the  evening  of  the  third  day,  they  came  to  a 
little  island  on  which  they  descried  a  gang  of  elk.  Ben 
Jones  landed,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  wound  one, 
which  immediately  took  to  the  water,  but,  being  unable 
to  stem  the  current,  drifted  above  a  mile,  when  it  was 
overtaken  and  drawn  to  shore.  As  a  storm  was  gath- 
ering, they  now  encamped  on  the  margin  of  the  river, 
where  they  remained  all  the  next  day,  sheltering  them- 
selves as  well  as  they  could  from  the  rain  and  snow  — 
a  sharp  foretaste  of  the  impending  winter.  During 
their  encampment,  they  employed  themselves  in  jerk- 
ing a  part  of  the  elk  for  future  supply.  In  cutting  up 
the  carcass,  they  found  that  the  animal  had  been 
wounded  by  hunters,  about  a  week  previously,  an 
arrow  head  and  a  musket  ball  remaining  in  the  wounds. 
In  the  wilderness,  every  trivial  circumstance  is  a  matter 
of  anxious  speculation.  The  Snake  Indians  have  no 
guns ;  the  elk,  therefore,  could  not  have  been  wounded 
Dy  one  of  them.  They  w^ere  on  the  borders  of  the 
country  infested  by  the  Blackfeet,  who  carry  fire-arms. 
It  was  concluded,  therefore,  that  the  elk  had  been 
hunted  by  some  of  that  wandering  and  hostile  tribe, 
who,  of  course,  must  be  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
idea  put  an  end  to  the  transient  solace  they  had  enjoyed 
in  the  comparative  repose  and  abundance  of  the  river. 
For  three  days  longer  they  continued  to  navigate  with 


ASTORIA 


369 


yagers 
3,  also, 
y  were 
,  their 
ive  oc- 
in  the 
spared 
le.     In 
;  days, 
1    land 
shore. 
ae  to  a 
:.    Ben 
lid  one, 
unable 
it  was  ■ 
s  gath- 
e  river, 
r  them- 
now  — 
During 
1  jerk- 
ing up 
been 
ly,    an 
ounds. 
matter 
Lve  no 
)unded 
lof  the 
-arms, 
been 
tribe, 
The 
1  joyed 
river. 
te  with 


their  rafts.  The  recent  storm  had  rendered  the  weather 
extremely  cold.  They  had  now  floated  down  the  river 
about  ninety-one  miles,  when,  finding  the  mountains 
on  the  right  diminished  to  moderate  sized  hills,  they 
landed,  and  prepared  to  resume  their  journey  on  foot. 
Accordingly,  having  spent  a  day  in  preparations,  mak- 
ing moccasins,  and  parcelling  out  their  jerked  meat  in 
packs  of  twenty  pounds  to  each  man,  they  turned  their 
backs  upon  the  river  on  the  29th  of  September  and 
struck  off  to  the  northeast,  keeping  along  the  southern 
skirt  of  the  mountain  on  which  Henry's  Fort  was 
situated. 

Their  march  was  slow  and  toilsome;  part  of  the 
time  through  an  alluvial  bottom,  thickly  grown  with 
cotton-wood,  hawthorn,  and  willows,  and  part  of  the 
time  over  rough  hills.  Three  antelopes  came  within 
shot,  but  they  dared  not  fire  at  them,  lest  the  report  of 
their  rifles  should  betray  them  to  the  Blackfeet.  In 
the  course  of  the  day,  they  came  upon  a  large  horse- 
track  apparently  about  three  weeks  old,  and  in  the  even- 
ing encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream,  on  a 
spot  which  had  been  the  camping  place  of  this  same 
band. 

On  the  following  morning  they  still  observed  the 
Indian  track,  but  after  a  time  they  came  to  where  it 
separated  in  every  direction,  and  was  lost.  This 
showed  that  the  band  had  dispersed  in  various  hunt- 
ing parties,  and  was,  in  all  probability,  still  in  the  neigh- 
borhood; it  was  necessary, 'therefore,  to  proceed  with 
the  utmost  caution.  They  kept  a  vigilant  eye  as  they 
majTched,  upon  every  height  where  a  scout  might  be 
posted,  and  scanned  the  solitary  landscapes  and  the 
distant  ravines,  to  observe  any  column  of  smoke;  but 
nothing  of  the  kind  was  to  be  seen;  all  was  indescrib- 
ably stern  and  lifeless. 

Towards  evening  they  came  to  where  there  were 
several  hot  springs,  strongly  impregnated  with   iron 

24 


zyo 


ASTORIA 


mk  I 


and  sulphur,  and  sending  up  a  volume  of  vapor  that 
tainted  the  surrounding  atmosphere,  and  might  be  seen 
at  the  distance  of  a  couple  of  miles. 

Near  to  these  they  encamped,  in  a  deep  gully  which 
afforded  some  concealment.  To  their  great  concern, 
Mr.  Crooks,  who  had  been  indisposed  for  the  two  pre- 
ceding days,  had  a  violent  fever  in  the  night. 

Shortly  after  daybreak  they  resumed  their  march. 
On  emerging  from  the  glen,  a  consultation  was  held 
as  to  their  course.  Should  they  continue  round  the 
skirt  of  the  mountain,  they  would  be  in  danger  of  fall- 
ing in  with  the  scattered  parties  of  Blackfeet,  who 
were  probably  hunting  in  the  plain.  It  was  thought 
most  advisable,  therefore,  to  strike  directly  across  the 
mountain,  since  the  route,  though  rugged  and  difficult, 
would  be  most  secure.  This  counsel  was  indignantly 
derided  by  M'Lellan  as  pusillanimous.  Hot-headed  and 
impatient  at  all  times,  he  had  been  rendered  irascible 
by  the  fatigues  of  the  journey,  and  the  condition  of  his 
feet,  which  were  chafed  and  sore.  He  could  not  en- 
dure the  idea  of  encountering  the  difficulties  of  the 
mountain,  and  swore  he  would  rather  face  all  the  Black- 
feet  in  the  country.  He  was  overruled,  however,  and 
the  party  began  to  ascend  the  mountain,  striving,  with 
the  ardor  and  emulation  of  young  men,  who  should  be 
first  up.  M'Lellan,  who  was  double  the  age  of  some 
of  his  companions,  soon  began  to  lose  breath,  and  fall 
in  the  rear.  In  the  distribution  of  burdens,  it  was  his 
turn  to  carry  the  old  beaver  trap.  Piqued  and  irri- 
tated, he  suddenly  came  to  a  halt,  swore  he  would 
carry  it  no  further,  and  jerked  it  half-way  down  the 
hill.  He  was  offered  in  place  of  it  a  package  of  dried 
meat,  but  this  he  scornfully  threw  upon  the  ground. 
They  might  carry  it,  he  said,  who  needed  it;  for  his 
part,  he  could  provide  his  daily  bread  with  his  rifle. 
He  concluded  by  flinging  oft'  from  the  party,  and  keep- 
ing along  the  skirts  of  the  mountain,  leaving  those,  he 


ASTORIA 


371 


Dr  that 
be  seen 

which 
oncern, 
vo  pre- 

march. 
as  held 
ind  the 
of  fau- 
lt,  who 
;hoiight 
OSS  the 
Hfficult, 
gnantly 
led  and 
rascible 
ti  of  his 
not  en- 
of  the 
t  Black- 
er, and 
g,  with 
ould  be 
f  some 
nd  fall 
A^as  his 
id  irri- 
would 
wn  the 
:  dried 
round, 
for  his 
rifle. 
1  keep- 
ose,  he 


said,  to  climb  rocks,  who  were  afraid  to  face  Indians. 
It  was  in  vain  that  Mr.  Stuart  represented  to  him  the 
rashness  of  his  conduct,  and  the  dangers  to  which  he 
exposed  himself :  he  rejected  such  counsel  as  craven. 
It  was  equally  useless  to  represent  the  dangers  to  which 
he  subjected  his  companions ;  as  he  could  be  discovered 
at  a  great  distance  on  those  naked  plains,  and  the  In- 
dians, seeing  him,  would  know  that  there  must  be 
other  white  men  within  reach.  M'Lellan  turned  a 
deaf  ear  to  every  remonstrance,  and  kept  on  his  wilful 
way. 

It  seems  a  strange  instance  of  perverseness  in  this 
man  thus  to  fling  himself  off  alone,  in  a  savage  region, 
where  solitude  itself  was  dismal,  and  every  encounter 
with  his  fellow-man  full  of  peril.  Such,  however,  is 
the  hardness  of  spirit,  and  the  insensibility  to  danger, 
that  grow  upon  men  in  the  wilderness.  M'Lellan, 
moreover,  was  a  man  of  peculiar  temperament,  un- 
governable in  his  will,  of  a  courage  that  absolutely 
knew  no  fear,  and  somewhat  of  a  braggart  spirit,  that 
took  a  pride  in  doing  desperate  and  hair-brained  things. 

Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  found  the  passages  of  the 
mountain  somewhat  difficult,  on  account  of  the  snow, 
which  in  many  places  was  of  considerable  depth, 
though  it  was  now  but  the  ist  of  October.  They 
crossed  the  summit  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  beheld 
below  them  a  plain  about  twenty  miles  w^de,  bounded 
on  the  opposite  side  by  their  old  acquaintances,  the 
Pilot  Knobs,  those  towering  mountains  which  had 
served  Mr.  Hunt  as  landmarks  in  part  of  his  route  of 
the  preceding  year.  Through  the  intermediate  plain 
wandered  a  river  about  fifty  yards  wide,  sometimes 
gleaming  in  open  day,  but  oftener  running  through 
willowed  banks,  whic^"     ^'^rked  its  serpentine  course. 

Those  of  the  party  ad  been  across  these  moun- 

tains, pointed  out  much  01  the  bearings  of  the  country 
to  Mr.  Stuart.     They  showed  him  in  what  direction 


i      1 


'    .1 


372 


ASTORIA 


I  ', 


{U 


NOf 


must  He  the  deserted  post  called  Henry's  Fort,  where 
they  had  abandoned  their  horses  and  ernlxirked  in 
canoes,  and  they  informed  him  tliat  the  stream  which 
wandered  through  the  plain  below  them,  fell  into 
Henry  River,  half  way  between  the  fort  and  the  mouth 
of  Mad  or  Snake  River.  The  character  of  all  this 
mountain  region  was  decidedly  volcanic;  and  to  the 
northwest,  between  Henry's  Fort  and  the  source  of 
the  Missouri,  Mr.  Stuart  observed  several  very  high 
peaks  covered  with  snow,  from  two  of  which  smoke 
ascended  in  considerable  volumes,  apparently  from 
craters  in  a  state  of  eruption. 

On  their  way  down  the  mountain,  when  they  had 
reached  the  skirts,  they  descried  M'Lellan  at  a  distance, 
in  the  advance,  traversing  the  plain.  Whether  he  saw 
them  or  not,  he  showed  no  disposition  to  rejoin  them, 
but  pursued  his  sullen  and  solitary  way. 

After  descending  into  the  plain,  they  kept  on  about 
six  miles,  until  they  reached  the  little  river,  which  was 
here  about  knee  deep,  and  richly  fringed  with  willow. 
Here  they  encamped  for  the  night.  At  this  encamp- 
ment the  fever  of  Mr.  Crooks  increased  to  such  a 
degree  that  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  travel.  Some 
of  the  men  were  strenuous  for  Mr.  Stuart  to  proceed 
without  him,  urging  the  imminent  danger  they  were 
exposed  to  by  delay  in  that  unknown  and  barren  region, 
infested  by  the  most  treacherous  and  inveterate  foes. 
Tliey  represented  that  the  season  was  rapidly  advanc- 
ing ;  the  weather  for  some  days  had  been  extremely  cold ; 
the  mountains  were  already  almost  impassable  from 
snow,  and  would  soon  present  effectual  barriers.  Their 
provisions  were  exhausted,;  there  was  no  game  to  be 
seen,  and  they  did  not  dare  to  use  their  rifles,  through 
fear  of  drawing  upon  them  the  Blackfeet. 

The  picture  thus  presented,  was  too  true  to  be  con- 
tradicted, and  made  a  deep  impression  on  the  mind  of 
Mr.  Stuart ;  but  the  idea  of  abandoning  a  fellow  being. 


ASTORIA 


373 


where 
keel    in 

which 
:11    into 

mouth 
all  this 

to  the 
irce  of 
•y  high 

smoke 
f    from 

ley  had 
istance, 
he  saw 
n  them, 

n  about 
ich  was 
willow. 
;nc  amp- 
such  a 
Some 
proceed 
y  were 
region, 
;e  foes, 
idvanc- 
ly  cold ; 
from 
Their 
to  be 
hrough 

)e  con- 
hind  of 
being, 


and  a  comrade,  in  such  a  forlorn  situation,  was  too  re- 
pugnant to  his  feelings  to  he  admitted  for  an  instant. 
He  represented  to  the  men  that  the  malady  of  Mr. 
Crooks  could  not  be  of  long  duration,  and  that,  in  all 
probability,  he  would  be  al)le  to  travel  in  the  course  of 
a  few  days.  It  was  with  great  difficulty,  however,  that 
he  prevailed  upon  them  to  abide  the  event. 


CHAPTER  XLVII 

As  the  travellers  were  now  in  a  dangerous  neighbor- 
hood, where  the  report  of  a  rifle  might  bring  the  sav- 
ages upon  them,  they  had  to  depend  upon  their  old 
beavcr-trap  for  subsistence.  The  little  river  on  which 
they  were  encamped  gave  many  "  beaver  signs,"  and 
Ben  Jones  set  otf  at  daybreak,  along  the  willowed 
banks,  to  find  a  proper  trapping-place.  As  he  was 
making  his  way  among  the  thickets,  with  his  trap  on 
his  shoulder  and  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  he  heard  a  crush- 
ing sound,  and  turning,  beheld  a  huge  grizzly  bear 
advancing  upon  him,  with  terrific  growl.  The  sturdy 
Kentuckian  was  not  to  be  intimidated  by  man  or  mon- 
ster. Levelling  his  rifle,  he  pulled  the  trigger.  The 
bear  was  wounded,  but  not  mortally:  instead,  how- 
ever, of  rushing  upon  his  assaiknt,  as  is  generally  the 
case  with  this  kind  of  bear,  he  retreated  into  the  bushes. 
Jones  followed  him  for  some  distance,  but  with  suitable 
caution,  and  Bruin  effected  his  escape. 

As  there  was  every  prospect  of  a  detention  of  some 
days  in  this  place,  and  as  the  supplies  of  the  beaver- 
trap  were  too  precarious  to  be  depended  upon,  it  be- 
came absolutely  necessary  to  run  some  risk  of  discovery 
by  hunting  in  the  neighborhood.  Ben  Jones,  therefore, 
obtained  permission  to  range  with  his  rifle  some  dis- 
tance from  the  camp,  and  set  off  to  beat  up  the  river 
banks,  in  defiance  of  bear  or  Blackfeet. 


a 


Ui 


JUt 


iii 


i    li 


374 


ASTORIA 


..i  ! 


He  returned  in  great  spirits  in  the  course  of  a  few 
hours,  having  come  upon  a  gang  of  elk  about  six  miles 
off,  and  killed  five.  This  was  joyful  news,  and  the 
party  immediately  moved  forward  to  the  place  where 
he  had  left  the  carcasses.  They  were  obliged  to  sup- 
port Mr.  Crooks  the  whole  distance,  for  he  was  unable 
to  walk.  Here  they  remained  for  two  or  three  days, 
feasting  heartily  on  elk  meat,  and  drying  as  much  as 
they  would  be  able  to  carry  away  with  them. 

By  the  5th  of  October,  some  simple  prescriptions, 
together  with  an  "  Indian  sweat,"  had  so  far  benefited 
Mr.  Crooks,  that  he  was  enabled  to  move  about;  they 
therefore  set  forward  slowly,  dividing  his  pack  and 
accoutrements  among  them,  and  made  a  creeping  day's 
progress  of  eight  miles  south.  Their  route  for  the 
most  part  lay  through  swamps  caused  by  the  indus- 
trious labors  of  the  beaver;  for  this  little  animal  had 
dammed  up  numerous  small  streams,  issuing  from  the 
Pilot  Knob  Mountains,  so  that  the  low  grounds  on  their 
borders  were  completely  inundated.  In  the  course  of 
their  march  they  killed  a  grizzly  bear,  with  fat  on  its 
flanks  upwards  of  three  inches  in  thickness.  This  was 
an  acceptable  addition  to  their  stock  of  elk  meat.  The 
next  day  Mr.  Crooks  was  sufficiently  recruited  in 
strength  to  be  able  to  carry  his  rifle  and  pistols,  and 
they  made  a  mardi  of  seventeen  miles  along  the  borders 
of  the  plain. 

Their  journey  daily  became  more  toilsome,  and  their 
sufferings  more  severe,  as  they  advanced.  Keeping  up 
the  channel  of  a  river,  they  traversed  the  rugged  sum- 
mit of  the  Pilot  Knob  Mountain,  covered  with  snow 
nine  inches  deep.  For  several  days  they  continued, 
bending  their  course  as  much  as  possible  to  the  east, 
over  a  succession  of  rocky  heights,  deep  valleys,  and 
rapid  streams.  Sometimes  their  dizzy  path  lay  along 
the  margin  of  perpendi'ular  precipices,  several  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  where  a  single  false  step  might 


ASTORIA 


375 


a  few 
c  miles 
nd  the 

where 

0  sup- 
unable 

1  days, 
uch  as 

ptions, 
nefited 

;  they 
:k  and 
^  day's 
or  the 

indus- 
lal  had 
om  the 
fn  their 
irse  of 

on  its 
lis  was 
The 
ted    in 

s,  and 

orders 

their 
ngup 
1  sum- 
snow 
inued, 

east, 

s,  and 

along 

I  hun- 

might 


precipitate  them  into  the  rocky  bed  of  a  torrent  which 
roared  below.  Not  the  least  part  of  their  weary  task 
was  the  fording  of  the  numerous  windings  and  branch- 
ings of  the  mountain  rivers,  all  boisterous  in  their 
currents,  and  icy  cold. 

Hunger  was  added  to  their  other  sufferings,  and 
soon  became  the  keenest.  The  small  supply  of  bear 
and  elk  meat  which  they  had  Ijeen  able  to  carry,  in 
addition  to  their  previous  burdens,  served  but  for  a 
short  time.  In  their  anxiety  to  struggle  forward,  they 
had  but  little  time  to  hunt,  and  scarce  any  game  in 
their  path.  For  three  days  they  had  nothing  to  eat 
but  a  small  duck,  and  a  few  poor  trout.  They  occa- 
sionally saw  numbers  of  the  antelopes,  and  tried  every 
art  to  get  within  shot;  but  the  timid  animals  were 
more  than  commonly  wild,  and  after  tantalizing  the 
hungry  hunters  for  a  time,  bounded  away  beyond  all 
chance  of  pursuit.  At  length  they  were  fortunate 
enough  to  kill  one:  it  was  extremely  meagre,  and 
yielded  but  a  scanty  supply ;  but  on  this  they  subsisted 
for  several  days. 

On  the  nth,  they  encamped  on  a  small  stream,  near 
the  foot  of  the  Spanish  River  Mountain.  Here  they 
met  with  traces  of  that  wayward  and  solitary  being, 
M'Lellan,  who  was  still  keeping  on  ahead  of  them 
through  these  lonely  mountains.  He  had  encamped  the 
night  before  on  this  stream;  they  found  the  embers 
of  the  fire  by  which  he  had  slept,  and  the  remains  of  a 
miserable  wolf  on  which  he  had  supped.  It  was  evi- 
dent he  had  suffered,  like  themselves,  the  pangs  of 
hunger,  though  he  had  fared  better  at  this  encampment ; 
for  they  had  not  a  mouthful  to  eat. 

The  next  day,  they  rose  hungry  and  alert,  and  set 
out  with  the  dawn  to  climb  the  mountain,  which  was 
steep  and  difficult.  Traces  of  volcanic  eruptions  were 
to  be  seen  in  various  directions.  There  was  a  species 
of  clay  also  to  be  met  with,  out  of  which  the  Indians 


Z7^ 


ASTORIA 


P  h 


it* 

X 


JHll 


MS*  j" 
JIIJB 

M 

it*! 


n 


m\ 


iS; 


tj«*r 


manufacture  pots  and  jars,  and  dishes.  It  is  very  fine 
and  light,  of  an  agreeable  smell,  and  of  a  brown  color 
spotted  with  yellow,  and  dissolves  readily  in  the  mouth. 
Vessels  manufactured  of  it  are  said  to  impc  rt  a  pleas- 
ant smell  and  flavor  to  any  liquids.  These  mountains 
abound  also  with  mineral  earths,  or  chalks  of  various 
colors;  especially  two  kinds  of  ochre,  one  a  pale,  the 
other  a  bright  red,  like  vermilion ;  much  used  by  the 
Indians,  in  painting  their  bodies. 

About  noon,  the  travellers  reached  the  "  drains  "  and 
brooks  that  formed  the  head  waters  of  the  river,  and 
later  in  the  day,  descended  to  where  the  main  body,  a 
shallow  stream,  about  a  hundred  and  sixty  yards  wide, 
poured  through  its  mountain  valley. 

Here  the  poor  famishing  wanderers  had  expected  to 
find  buffalo  in  abundance,  and  had  fed  their  hungry 
hopes  during  their  scrambling  toil,  with  the  thoughts 
of  roasted  ribs,  juicy  humps,  and  broiled  marrow  bones. 
To  their  great  disappointment,  the  river  banks  were 
deserted;  a  few  old  tracks,  showed  where  a  herd  of 
bulls  had  some  time  before  passed  along,  but  not  a  horn 
nor  hump  was  to  be  seen  in  the  sterile  landscape.  A 
few  antelopes  looked  down  upon  them  from  the  brow 
of  a  crag,  but  flitted  away  out  of  sight  at  the  least  ap- 
proach of  the  hunter. 

In  the  most  starving  mood  they  kept  for  several 
miles  further,  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  seeking  for 
"  beaver  signs."  Finding  some,  they  encamped  in  the 
vicinity,  and  Ben  Jones  immediately  proceeded  to  set 
the  trap.  They  had  scarce  come  to  a  halt,  when  they 
perceived  a  large  smoke  at  some  distance  to  the  south- 
west. The  sight  was  hailed  with  joy,  for  they  trusted 
it  might  rise  from  some  Indian  camp,  where  they  could 
procure  something  to  eat,  and  the  dread  of  starvation 
had  now  overcome  even  the  terror  of  the  Black  feet. 
I.e  Clerc,  one  of  the  Canadians,  was  instantly  dis- 
patched by  Mr.  Stuart,  to  reconnoitre ;  and  the  travel- 


I 


ASTORIA 


Z77 


ry  fine 
n  color 
mouth. 
L  pleas- 
Ltntains 
various 
lie,  the 
by  the 

s  "  and 
er,  and 
body,  a 
s  wide, 

icted  to 
hungry 
loughts 
/  bones. 
p  were 
lerd  of 
a  horn 
ipe.     A 

i. 

le  brow 
ast  ap- 

several 
ing  for 

in  the 
I  to  set 
tw  they 
,  south- 
trusted 
y  could 
r  vat  ion 
ickfeet. 
;ly   dis- 

travel- 


lers  sat  up  till  a  late  hour,  watching  and  listening  for 
his  return,  hoping  he  might  bring  them  food.  Mid- 
night arrived,  bat  Le  Clerc  did  not  make  his  appear- 
ance, and  they  laid  down  once  more  supperless  to  sleep, 
comforting  themselves  with  the  hopes  that  their  old 
beaver  trap  might  furnish  them  with  a  breakfast. 

At  daybreak  they  hastened  with  famished  eagerness 
to  the  trap.  They  found  in  it  the  fore  paw  of  a  beaver, 
the  sight  of  which  tantalized  their  hunger,  and  added 
to  their  dejection.  They  resumed  their  journey  with 
flagging  spirits,  but  had  not  gone  far  when  they  per- 
ceived Le  Clerc  approaching  at  a  distance.  They  has- 
tened to  meet  him,  in  hopes  of  tidings  of  good  cheer. 
He  had  none  to  give  them ;  but  news  of  that  strange 
wanderer,  M'Lellan.  The  smoke  had  risen  from  his 
encampment,  which  took  fire  while  he  was  at  a  little 
distance  from  it  fishing.  Le  Clerc  found  him  in  forlorn 
condition.  His  fishing  had  been  unsuccessful.  During 
twelve  days  that  he  had  been  wandering  alone  through 
these  savage  mountains,  he  had  found  scarce  anything 
to  eat.  He  had  been  ill,  wayworn,  sick  at  heart,  still 
he  had  kept  forward ;  but  now  his  strength  and  his 
stubbornness  were  exhausted.  He  expressed  his  satis- 
faction at  hearing  that  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  were 
near,  and  said  he  would  wait  at  his  camp  for  their 
arrival,  in  hopes  they  would  give  him  something  to  eat, 
for  without  food  he  declared  he  should  not  be  able  to 
proceed  much  further. 

When  the  party  reached  the  place,  they  found  the 
poor  fellow  lying  on  a  parcel  of  withered  grass,  wasted 
to  a  perfect  skeleton,  and  so  feeble  that  he  could  scarce 
raise  his  head  or  speak.  The  presence  of  his  old  com- 
rades seemed  to  revive  him ;  but  they  had  no  food  to 
give  him,  for  they  themselves  were  almost  starving. 
They  urged  him  to  rise  and  accompany  them,  but  he 
shook  his  head.  It  was  all  in  vain,  he  said ;  there  was 
no  prospect  of  their  getting  speedy  relief,  and  without 


1, 


■(:■  A 


r 


'iS 


4     '«» 


i{u! 


Jlwt 


'liii, 


in* 


378 


ASTORIA 


it  he  should  perish  by  the  way ;  he  might  as  well,  there- 
fore, stay  and  die  where  he  was.  At  length,  after 
much  persuasion,  they  got  him  upon  his  legs ;  his  rifle 
and  other  effects  were  shared  among  them,  and  he  was 
cheered  and  aided  forward.  In  this  way  they  pro- 
ceeded for  seventeen  miles,  over  a  level  plain  of  sand, 
until  seeing  a  few  antelopes  in  the  distance,  they  en- 
camped on  the  margin  of  a  small  stream.  All  now  that 
were  capable  of  the  exertion,  turned  out  to  hunt  for  a 
meal.  Their  efforts  were  fruitless,  and  after  dark  they 
returned  to  their  camp,  famished  almost  to  desperation. 

As  they  were  preparing  for  the  third  time  to  lay 
down  to  sleep  without  a  mouthful  to  eat,  Le  Clerc,  one 
of  the  Canadians,  gaunt  and  wild  with  hunger,  ap- 
proached Mr.  Stuart  with  his  gun  in  his  hand.  "  It 
was  all  in  vain,"  he  said,.  "  to  attempt  to  proceed  any 
further  without  food.  They  had  a  barren  plain  before 
them,  three  or  four  days'  journey  in  extent,  on  which 
nothing  was  to  be  procured.  They  must  all  perish  be- 
fore they  could  get  to  the  end  of  it.  It  was  better, 
therefore,  that  one  should  die  to  save  the  rest."  He 
proposed,  therefore,  that  they  should  cast  lots ;  adding, 
as  an  inducement  for  Mr.  Stuart  to  assert  to  the  prop- 
osition, that  he,  as  leader  of  the  party,  should  be 
exempted. 

Mr.  Stuart  shuddered  at  the  horrible  proposition, 
and  endeavored  to  reason  with  the  man,  but  his  words 
were  unavailing.  At  length,  snatching  up  his  rifle,  he 
threatened  to  shoot  him  on  the  spot  if  he  persisted. 
The  famished  wretch  dropped  on  his  knees,  begged 
pardon  in  the  most  abject  terms,  and  promised  never 
again  to  offend  him  with  such  a  suggestion. 

Quiet  being  restored  to  the  forlorn  encampment, 
each  one  sought  repose.  Mr.  Stuart,  however,  was  so 
exhausted  by  the  agitation  of  the  past  scene,  acting 
upon  his  emaciated  frame,  that  he  could  scarce  crawl 
to  his  miserable  couch;    where,  notwithstanding  his 


\' 


ASTORIA 


379 


there- 
,  after 
is  rifle 
he  was 
y  pro- 
f  sand, 
ley  en- 
)\v  that 
t  for  a 
rk  they 
;ration. 
to  lay 
Tc,  one 
er,  ap- 
1.     "  It 
eel  any 
before 
which 
ish  be- 
better, 
"     He 
idding, 
i  prop- 
uld  be 

)sition, 
words 

ifle,  he 

•sisted. 

pegged 
never 

3ment, 
tvas  so 
acting 
crawl 
ig  his 


fatigues,  he  passed  a  sleepless  night,  revolving  upon 
their  dreary  situation,  and  the  desperate  prospect  before 
them. 

Before  daylight  the  next  morning,  they  were  up  and 
on  their  way;  they  had  nothing  to  detain  them;  no 
breakfast  to  prepare,  and  to  linger  was  to  perish.  They 
proceeded,  however,  but  slowly,  for  all  were  faint  and 
weak.  Here  and  there  they  passed  the  skulls  and  bones 
of  buffaloes,  which  showed  that  these  animals  must 
have  been  hunted  here  during  the  past  season ;  the  sight 
of  these  bones  served  only  to  mock  their  misery.  After 
travelling  about  nine  miles  along  the  plain,  they  as- 
cended a  range  of  hills,  and  had  scarcely  gone  two  miles 
further,  when,  to  their  great  joy,  they  discovered  '*  an 
old  run-down  buffalo  bull " ;  the  laggard  probably  of 
some  herd  that  had  been  hunted  and  harassed  through 
the  mountains.  They  now  all  stretched  themselves  out 
to  encompass  and  make  sure  of  this  solitary  animal,  for 
their  lives  depended  upon  their  success.  After  consid- 
erable trouble  and  infinite  anxiety,  they  at  length  suc- 
ceeded in  killing  him.  He  was  instantly  flayed  and  cut 
up,  and  so  ravenous  was  their  hunger,  that  they  de- 
voured some  of  the  flesh  raw.  The  residue  they  carried 
to  a  brook  near  by,  where  they  encamped,  lit  a  fire,  and 
began  to  cook. 

Mr.  Stuart  was  fearful  that  in  their  famished  state 
they  would  eat  to  excess  and  injure  themselves.  He 
caused  a  soup  to  be  made  of  some  of  the  meat,  and  that 
each  should  take  a  quantity  of  it  as  a  prelude  to  his 
supper.  This  may  have  had  a  beneficial  effect,  for 
though  they  sat  up  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  cook- 
ing and  cramming,  no  one  suffered  any  inconvenience. 

The  next  morning  the  feasting  was  resumed,  and 
about  mid-day,  feeling  somewhat  recruited  and  re- 
freshed, they  set  out  on  their  journey  with  renovated 
spirits,  shaping  their  course  towards  a  mountain,  the 
summit  of  which  they  saw  towering  in  the  east,  and 


f 


t,y 


1:F 

E'l 


wm 


380 


ASTORIA 


f<i  ' 


■  m 


1^ 


Mtsai 


.4f« 


near  to  which  they  expected  to  find  the  head  waters  of 
the  Missouri. 

As  they  proceeded,  they  continued  to  see  the  skele- 
tons of  buffaloes  scattered  about  the  plain  in  every 
direction,  which  showed  that  there  had  been  much 
hunting"  here  by  the  Indians  in  the  recent  season.  Fur- 
ther on  they  crossed  a  large  Indian  trail  forming  a  deep 
path,  about  fifteen  days  old,  which  went  in  a  north 
direction.  They  concluded  it  to  have  been  made  by 
some  numerous  band  of  Crows,  who  had  hunted  in  this 
country  for  the  greater  part  of  the  summer. 

On  the  following  day  they  forded  a  stream  of  con- 
siderable magnitude,  with  banks  clothed  with  pine  trees. 
Among  these  they  found  the  traces  of  a  large  Indian 
camp,  which  had  evidently  been  the  headquarters  of  a 
hunting  expedition,  from  the  great  quantities  of  buffalo 
bones  strewed  about  the  neighborhood.  The  camp  had 
apparently  been  abandoned  about  a  month. 

In  the  centre  was  a  singular  lodge  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  circumference,  supported  by  the  trunks  of 
twenty  trees,  about  twelve  inches  in  diameter  and  forty- 
four  feet  long.  Across  these  were  laid  branches  of  pine 
and  willow  trees,  so  as  to  yield  a  tolerable  shade.  At 
the  west  end,  immediately  opposite  to  the  door,  three 
bodies  lay  interred  with  their  feet  towards  the  east.  At 
the  head  of  each  grave  was  a  branch  of  red  cedar  firmly 
planted  in  the  ground.  At  the  foot  was  a  large  buf- 
falo's skull,  painted  black.  Savage  ornaments  were 
suspended  in  various  parts  of  the  edifice,  and  a  great 
number  of  children's  moccasins.  From  the  magnitude 
of  this  building,  and  the  time  and  labor  that  must  have 
been  expended  in  erecting  it,  the  bodies  which  it  con- 
tained were  probably  those  of  noted  warriors  and 
hunters. 

The  next  day,  October  17th,  they  passed  two  large 
tributary  streams  of  the  Spanish  River.  They  took 
their  rise  in  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  which  ranged 


ASTORIA 


381 


of 


along  to  the  east,  stupendously  high  and  rugged,  com- 
posed of  vast  masses  of  black  rock,  almost  destitute  of 
wood,  and  covered  in  many  places  with  snow.  This 
day  they  saw  a  few  buffalo  bulls,  and  some  antelopes, 
but  could  not  kill  any;  and  their  stock  of  provisions 
began  to  grow  scanty  as  well  as  poor. 

On  the  1 8th,  after  crossing  a  mountain  ridge,  and 
traversing  a  plain,  they  waded  one  of  the  branches  of 
Spanish  River,  and  on  ascending  its  bank,  met  with 
about  a  hundred  and  thirty  Snake  Indians.  They  were 
friendly  in  their  demeanor,  and  conducted  them  to  their 
encampment,  which  was  about  three  miles  distant.  It 
consisted  of  about  forty  wigwams,  constructed  prin- 
cipally of  pine  branches.  The  Snakes,  like  most  of 
their  nation,  were  very  poor;  the  marauding  Crows, 
in  their  late  excursion  through  the  country,  had  picked 
this  unlucky  band  to  the  very  bone,  carrying  off  their 
horses,  several  of  their  squaws,  and  most  of  their  ef- 
fects. In  spite  of  their  poverty,  they  were  hospitable 
in  the  extreme,  and  made  the  hungry  strangers  wel- 
come to  their  cabins.  A  few  trinkets  procured  from 
them  a  supply  of  buffalo  meat,  and  of  leather  for  moc- 
casins, of  which  the  party  were  greatly  in  need.  The 
most  valuable  prize  obtained  from  them,  however,  was 
a  horse :  it  was  a  sorry  old  animal  in  truth,  but  it  was 
the  only  one  that  remained  to  the  poor  fellows,  after  the 
fell  swoop  of  the  Crows;  yet  this  they  were  prevailed 
upon  to  part  with  to  their  guests  for  a  pistol,  an  axe, 
a  knife,  and  a  few  other  trifling  articles. 

They  had  doleful  stories  to  tell  of  the  Crows,  who 
were  encamped  on  a  river  at  no  great  distance  to  the 
east,  and  were  in  such  force  that  they  dared  not  ven- 
ture to  seek  any  satisfaction  for  their  outrages,  or  to 
get  back  a  horse  or  squaw.  They  endeavored  to  excite 
the  indignation  of  their  visitors  by  accounts  of  rob- 
beries and  murders  committed  on  lonely  white  hunters 
and  trappers  by  Crows  and  Black  feet.    Some  of  these 


;^:l 


mi 


I 


ii/ 


m  ri 


382 


ASTORIA 


were  exaggerations  of  the  outrages  already  mentioned, 
sustained  by  some  of  the  scattered  members  of  Mr. 
Hunt's  expedition ;  others  were  in  all  probability  sheer 
fabrications,  to  which  the  Snakes  seem  to  have  been  a 
little  prone.  Mr.  Stuart  assured  them  that  the  day  was 
not  far  distant  when  the  whites  would  make  their  power 
to  be  felt  throughout  that  country,  and  take  signal  ven- 
geance on  the  perpetrators  of  these  misdeeds.  The 
Snakes  expressed  great  joy  at  the  intelligence,  and 
offered  their  services  to  aid  the  righteous  cause,  bright- 
ening at  the  thoughts  of  taking  the  field  with  such  po- 
tent allies,  and  doubtless  anticipating  their  turn  at  steal- 
ing horses  and  abducting  squaws.  Their  offers,  of 
course,  were  accepted;  the  calumet  of  peace  was  pro- 
duced, and  the  two  forlorn  powers  smoked  eternal 
friendship  between  themselves,  and  vengeance  upon 
their  common  spoilers,  the  Crows. 


CHAPTER  XLVni 

By  sunrise  on  the  following  morning  (October  19th), 
the  travellers  had  loaded  their  old  horse  with  buffalo 
meat,  sufficient  for  five  days'  provisions,  and,  taking 
leave  of  their  new  allies,  the  poor,  but  hospitable 
Snakes,  set  forth  in  somewhat  better  spirits,  though  the 
increasing  cold  of  the  weather,  and  the  sight  of  the 
snovvy  mountains  which  they  had  yet  to  traverse,  were 
enough  to  chill  their  very  hearts.  The  country  along 
this  branch  of  the  Spanish  River,  as  far  as  they  could 
see,  was  perfectly  level,  bounded  by  ranges  of  lofty 
mountains,  both  to  the  east  and  west.  They  proceeded 
about  three  miles  to  the  south,  where  they  came  again 
upon  the  large  trail  of  Crow  Indians,  which  they  had 
crossed  four  days  previously,  made,  no  doubt,  by  the 
same  marauding  band  that  had  plundered  the  Snakes ; 
and  which,  according  to  the  account  of  the  latter,  was 


ioned, 
f  Mr. 
sheer 
)een  a 
.y  was 
power 
il  ven- 
The 
;,  and 
)ri  glit- 
ch po- 
;  steal- 
Ts,  of 
Ls  pro- 
sternal 
;  upon 


>uffalo 

taking 

pi  table 

gh  the 

of  the 

;,  were 

along 

could 

I  lofty 

ceeded 

again 

ey  had 

by  the 

nakes ; 

IV,  was 


ASTORIA 


383 


now  encamped  on  a  stream  to  the  eastward.  The  trail 
kept  on  to  the  southeast,  and  was  so  well  beaten  by  horse 
and  foot,  that  they  supposed  at  least  a  hundred  lodges 
had  passed  along  it.  As  it  formed,  therefore,  a  con- 
venient highway,  and  ran  in  a  proper  direction,  they 
turned  into  it,  and  determined  to  keep  along  it  as  far 
as  safety  would  permit;  as  the  Crow  encampment 
must  be  some  distance  off,  and  it  was  not  likely  those 
savages  would  return  upon  their  steps.  They  trav- 
elled forward,  therefore,  all  that  day,  in  the  track  of 
their  dangerous  predecessors,  which  led  them  across 
mountain  streams,  and  long  ridges,  and  through  nar- 
row valleys,  all  tending  generally  towards  the  southeast. 
The  wind  blew  coldly  from  the  northeast,  with  occa- 
sional flurries  of  snow,  which  made  them  encamp  early, 
on  the  sheltered  banks  of  a  brook.  The  two  Cana- 
dians, Vallee  and  Le  Clerc,  killed  a  young  buffalo  bull 
in  the  evening,  which  was  in  good  condition,  and  af- 
forded them  a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  beef.  They 
loaded  their  spits,  therefore,  and  crammed  their  camp- 
kettle  with  meat,  and  while  the  wind  whistled,  and  the 
snow  whirled  around  them,  huddled  round  a  rousing 
fire,  basked  in  its  warmth,  and  comforted  both  soul  and 
body  with  a  hearty  and  invigorating  meal.  No  enjoy- 
ments have  greater  zest  than  these,  snatched  in  the  very 
midst  of  difficulty  and  danger;  and  it  is  probable  the 
poor  wayworn  and  weather-beaten  travellers  relished 
these  creature  comforts  the  more  highly  from  the  sur- 
rounding desolation,  and  the  dangerous  proximity  of 
the  Crows. 

The  snow  which  had  fallen  in  the  night  made  it  late 
in  the  morning  before  the  party  loaded  their  solitary 
pack-horse,  and  resumed  their  march.  They  had  not 
gone  far  before  the  Crow  trace  which  they  were  fol- 
lowing changed  its  direction,  and  bore  to  the  north  of 
east.  They  had  already  begun  to  feel  themselves  on 
dangerous  ground  in  keeping  along  it,  as  they  might 


384 


ASTORIA 


■I 


■i 
h 


VA 


be  descried  by  some  scouts  and  spies  of  that  race  of 
Ishmaelites,  whose  predatory  hfe  required  them  to  be 
constantly  on  the  alert.  On  seeing  the  trace  turn  so 
much  to  the  north,  therefore,  they  abandoned  it,  and 
kept  on  their  course  to  the  southeast  for  eighteen  miles, 
through  a  beautifully  undulating  country,  having  the 
main  chain  of  mountains  on  the  left,  and  a  consider- 
ably elevated  ridge  on  the  right.  Here  the  mountain 
ridge  which  divides  Wind  River  from  the  head  waters 
of  the  Columbia  and  Spanish  Rivers,  end  abruptly, 
and  winding  to  the  north  of  east,  becomes  the  dividing 
barrier  between  a  branch  of  the  Big  Horn  and  Chey- 
enne Rivers,  and  those  head  waters  which  flow  into  the 
Missouri  below  the  Sioux  country. 

The  ridge  which  lay  on  the  right  of  the  travellers 
having  now  become  very  low,  they  passed  over  it,  and 
came  into  a  level  plain,  about  ten  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  incrusted  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  with  salt  as  white  as  snow.  This  is  furnished 
by  numerous  salt  springs  of  limpid  water,  which  are 
continually  welling  up,  overflowing  their  borders,  and 
forming  beautiful  crystallizations.  The  Indian  tribes 
of  the  interior  are  excessively  fond  of  this  salt,  and 
repair  to  the  valley  to  collect  it,  but  it  is  held  in  dis- 
taste by  the  tribes  of  the  sea-coast,  who  will  eat  noth- 
ing that  has  been  cured  or  seasoned  by  it. 

This  evening  they  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small 
stream,  in  the  open  prairie.  The  northeast  wind  was 
keen  and  cutting;  they  had  nothing  wherewith  to 
make  a  fire,  but  a  scanty  growth  of  sage,  or  wormwood, 
and  were  fain  to  wrap  themselves  up  in  their  blanl^ets, 
and  huddle  themselves  in  their  "  nests,"  at  an  early 
hour.  In  the  course  of  the  evening,  Mr.  M'Lellan, 
wdio  had  now  regained  his  strength,  killed  a  buffalo, 
but  it  was  some  distance  from  the  camp,  and  they  post- 
poned supplying  themselves  from  the  carcass  until  the 
following  morning. 


ASTORIA 


38s 


«■! 


The  next  day  (October  21st),  the  cold  continued, 
accompanied  by  snow.  They  set  forward  on  their  bleak 
and  toilsome  way,  keeping  to  the  east-northeast, 
towards  the  lofty  summit  of  a  mountain,  which  it  was 
necessaiy  for  them  to  cross.  Before  they  reached  its 
base  they  passed  another  large  trail,  steering-  a  little 
to  the  right  of  the  point  of  the  mountain.  This  they 
presumed  to  have  been  made  by  another  band  of 
Crows,  who  had  probably  been  hunting  lower  down 
on  the  Spanish  River. 

The  severity  of  the  weather  compelled  them  to  en- 
camp at  the  end  of  fifteen  miles,  on  the  skirts  of  the 
mountain,  where  they  found  sufiicient  dry  aspen  trees 
to  supply  them  with  fire,  but  they  sought  in  vain  about 
the  neighborhood  for  a  spring  or  rill  of  water. 

At  daybreak  they  were  up  and  on  the  march,  scram- 
bling up  the  mountain  side  for  the  distance  of  eight 
painful  miles.  From  the  casual  hints  given  in  the  trav- 
elling memoranda  of  Mr.  Stuart,  this  mountain  would 
seem  to  offer  a  rich  field  of  speculation  for  the  geolo- 
gist. Here  was  a  plain  three  miles  in  diameter,  strewed 
with  pumice  stones  and  other  volcanic  reliques,  with  a 
lake  in  the  centre,  occupying  what  had  probably  been 
the  crater.  Here  were  also,  in  some  places,  deposits 
of  marine  shells,  indicating  that  this  mountain  crest 
had  at  some  remote  period  been  below  the  weaves. 

After  pausing  to  repose,  and  to  enjoy  these  grand 
but  savage  and  awful  scenes,  they  began  to  descend 
the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain.  The  descent  was 
rugged  and  romantic,  along  deep  ravines  and  defiles, 
overhung  with  crags  and  cliffs,  among  which  they  be- 
held numbers  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  skipping  fear- 
lessly from  rock  to  rock.  Two  of  them  they  succeeded 
in  bringing  down  with  their  rifles,  as  they  peered  fear- 
lessly from  the  brow  of  their  airy  precipices. 

Arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the  travellers 
found  a  rill  of  water  oozing  out  of  the  earth,  and  re- 

25 


HI 


386 


ASTORIA 


mf' 


If .  ■  ''•[  I 


1^*    'LJ 


sem1)ling  in  look  and  taste,  the  water  of  the  Missouri. 
Here  they  encamped  for  the  night,  and  supped  sumptu- 
ously upon  their  mountain  mutton,  which  they  found 
in  good  condition,  and  extremely  well  tasted. 

Tlie  morning  was  bright,  and  intensely  cold.  Early 
in  the  day  they  came  upon  a  stream  running  to  the 
east,  between  low  hills  of  bluish  earth,  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  copperas.  Mr.  Stuart  supposed  this 
to  be  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  and  de- 
termined to  follow  its  banks.  After  a  march  of 
twenty-six  miles,  however,  he  arrived  at  the  summit 
of  a  hill,  the  prospect  of  which  induced  him  to  alter 
his  intention.  He  beheld,  in  every  direction  south  of 
east,  a  vast  plain,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  through 
which  wandered  the  stream  in  question,  in  a  south- 
southeast  direction.  It  could  not,  therefore,  be  a 
branch  of  the  Missouri.  He  now  gave  up  all  idea  of 
taking  the  stream  for  his  guide,  and  shaped  his  course 
towards  a  range  of  mountains  in  the  east,  about  sixty 
miles  distant,  near  which  he  hoped  to  find  another 
stream. 

The  weather  was  now  so  severe,  and  the  hardship? 
of  travelling  so  great,  that  he  resolved  to  halt  for  tlie 
winter,  at  the  first  eligible  place.  That  night  they  had 
to  encamp  on  the  open  prairie,  near  a  scanty  pool  of 
water,  and  without  any  wood  to  make  a  fire.  The 
northeast  wind  blew  keenly  across  the  naked  waste, 
and  they  were  fain  to  decamp  from  their  inhospitable 
bivouac  before  the  dawn. 

For  two  days  they  kept  on  in  an  eastward  direction, 
against  wintry  blasts  and  occasional  snow-storms. 
They  suffered,  also,  from  scarcity  of  water,  having 
occasionally  to  use  melted  snow;  this,  with  the  want 
of  pasturage,  reduced  their  old  pack-horse  sadly.  They 
saw  many  tracks  of  buffalo,  and  some  few  bulls,  which, 
however,  got  the  wind  of  them,  and  scampered  off. 

On  the  26th  of  October,  they  steered  east-northeast, 


■fdfM- 


'I 


ASTORIA 


3>^7 


5souri. 
imptii- 
founcl 

Early 
to  the 
ly  im- 
d  this 
nd  de- 
•ch  of 
ummit 
3  alter 
uth  of 
1  rough 
south- 
be  a 
dea  of 
course 
t  sixty 
nother 

dship? 
"or  tlie 
ey  had 
)ool  of 
The 
waste, 
pitable 

ection, 
jtorms. 
having 
;  want 
They 
which, 
off. 
-theast, 


for  a  wooded  ravine  in  a  mountain,  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  base  of  which,  to  their  great  joy,  they  dis- 
covered an  abundant  stream,  running  between  willowed 
banks.  Here  they  halted  for  the  night,  and  Ben  Jones 
having  luckily  trapped  a  beaver,  and  killed  two  buffalo 
bulls,  they  remained  all  the  next  day  encamped,  feast- 
ing and  reposing,  and  allowing  their  jaded  horse  to 
rest  from  his  labors. 

The  little  stream  on  which  they  were  encamped,  was 
one  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Platte  River,  which  flows 
into  the  Missouri;  it  was,  in  fact,  the  northern  fork, 
or  branch  of  that  river,  though  this  the  travellers  did 
not  discover  until  long  afterwards.  Pursuing  the 
course  of  this  stream  for  about  twenty  miles,  they 
came  to  where  it  forced  a  passage  through  a  range  of 
high  hills,  covered  with  cedars,  into  an  extensive  low 
country,  affording  excellent  pasture  to  numerous  herds 
of  buffalo.  Here  they  killed  three  cows,  which  were 
the  first  they  had  been  able  to  get,  having  hitherto  had 
to  content  themselves  with  bull  beef,  which  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year  is  very  poor.  The  hump  meat  afforded 
them  a  repast  fit  for  an  epicure. 

Late  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th,  they  came  to 
where  the  stream,  now  increased  to  a  considerable  size, 
poured  along  in  a  ravine  between  precipices  of  red 
stone,  two  hundred  feet  in  height.  For  some  distance 
it  dashetl  along,  over  huge  masses  of  rock,  with  foam- 
ing violence,  as  if  exasperated  by  being  compressed 
into  so  narrow  a  channel,  and  at  length  leaped  down  a 
chasm  that  looked  dark  and  frightful  in  the  gathering 
twilight. 

For  a  part  of  the  next  day,  the  wild  river,  in  its 
capricious  wanderings,  led  them  through  a  variety  of 
striking  scenes.  At  one  time  they  were  upon  high 
plains,  like  platforms  among  the  mountains,  with  herds 
of  buffaloes  roaming  about  them;  at  another,  among 
rude  rocky  defiles,  broken  into  cliffs  and  precipices, 


388 


ASTORIA 


^n^ ' 


I 

'it: 


pi)  .fs 


S  -Ijl 


lrw»> 


where  the  black-tailed  deer  hounded  off  amonj^  the 
crags,  and  the  bighorn  basked  in  the  sunny  brow  of 
the  precipice. 

In  the  after  part  of  the  day,  they  came  to  another 
scene,  surpassing  in  savage  grandeur  those  already  de- 
scribed. They  had  been  travelling  for  some  distance 
through  a  pass  of  the  mountains,  keeping  parallel  with 
the  river,  as  it  roared  along,  out  of  sight,  through  a 
deep  ravine.  Sometimes  their  devious  path  ap- 
proached the  margin  of  cliffs  below  which  the  river 
foamed,  and  boiled,  and  whirled  among  the  masses  of 
rock  that  had  fallen  into  its  channel.  As  they  crept 
cautiously  on,  leading  their  solitary  pack-horse  along 
these  giddy  heights,  they  all  at  once  came  to  where  the 
river  thundered  down  a  succession  of  precipices,  throw- 
ing up  clouds  of  spray,  and  making  a  prodigious  din 
and  uproar.  The  travellers  remained,  for  a  time,  gaz- 
ing with  mingled  awe  and  delight,  at  this  furious  cata- 
ract, to  which  Mr.  Stuart  gave,  from  the  color  of  the 
impending  rocks,  the  name  of  "  The  Fiery  Narrows." 


CHAPTER  XLIX 


The  travellers  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  below  the  cataract.  The  night  was  cold, 
with  partial  showers  of  rain  and  sleet.  The  morning 
daw^ned  gloomily,  the  skies  were  sullen  and  overcast, 
and  threatened  further  storms;  but  the  little  band  re- 
sumed their  journey,  in  defiance  of  the  weather.  The 
increasing  rigor  of  the  season,  however,  which  makes 
itself  felt  early  in  these  mountainous  regions,  and  on 
these  naked  and  elevated  plains,  brought  them  to  a 
pause,  and  a  serious  deliberation,  after  they  had  de- 
scended about  thirty  miles  further  along  the  course  of 
the  river. 


ASTORIA 


389 


111":  the 
row  of 

another 
ady  de- 
Hstance 
lei  with 
•ough  a 
Lth  ap- 
le  river 
isses  of 
7  crept 
e  along 
riere  the 
,  throw- 
ous  din 
ne,  gaz- 
ms  cata- 
r  of  the 
rrows." 


All  were  convinced  that  it  was  in  vain  to  attempt  to 
accomplish  their  journey  on  foot  at  this  inclement  sea- 
son. They  had  still  many  hundred  miles  to  traverse 
before  they  should  reach  the  main  course  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  their  rente  would  lay  over  immense  prairies, 
naked  and  bleak,  and  destitute  of  fuel.  The  question 
then  was,  where  to  choose  their  wintering  place,  and 
whether  or  not  to  proceed  further  down  the  river. 
They  had  at  first  imagined  it  to  be  one  of  the  head 
w^aters,  or  tributary  streams,  of  the  Missouri.  After- 
wards they  had  believed  it  to  be  the  Rapid,  or  Ouicourt 
River,  in  which  opinion  they  had  not  come  nearer  to 
the  truth;  they  now,  however,  were  persuaded,  with 
equal  fallacy,  by  its  inclining  somewhat  to  the  north 
of  east,  that  it  was  the  Cheyenne.  If  so,  by  continuing 
down  it  much  further  they  must  arrive  among  the 
Indians,  from  whom  the  river  takes  its  name.  Among 
these  they  would  be  sure  to  meet  some  of  the  Sioux 
tribe.  These  would  apprise  their  relatives,  the  pirati- 
cal Sioux  of  the  Missouri,  of  the  approach  of  a  band  of 
white  traders;  so  that,  in  the  spring-time,  they  would 
be  likely  to  be  waylaid  and  robbed  on  their  way  down 
the  river,  by  some  party  in  ambush  upon  its  banks. 

Even  should  this  prove  to  be  the  Quicourt  or  Rapid 
River,  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  winter  much  further 
down  upon  its  banks,  as,  though  they  might  be  out  of 
the  range  of  the  Sioux,  they  would  be  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Poncas,  a  tribe  nearly  as  dangerous.  It 
was  resolved,  therefore,  since  they  must  winter  some- 
where on  this  side  of  the  Missouri,  to  descend  no  lower, 
but  to  keep  up  in  these  solitary  regions,  where  they 
would  be  in  no  danger  of  molestation. 

They  were  brought  the  more  promptly  and  unani- 
mously to  this  decision,  by  coming  upon  an  excellent 
wintering  place,  that  promised  everything  requisite  for 
their  comfort.  It  was  on  a  fine  bend  of  the  river,  just 
below  where  it  issued  out  from  among  a  ridge  of  moun- 


ii-S 


rl 


390 


ASTORIA 


-m  'M 


tains,  and  bent  towards  the  northeast.  Here  was  a 
beautiful  low  point  of  land,  covered  by  cotton-wood, 
and  surrounded  by  a  thick  growth  of  willow,  so  as  to 
yield  both  shelter  and  fuel,  as  well  as  materials  for 
building".  The  river  swept  by  in  a  strong  current, 
about  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide.  To  the  south- 
east were  mountains  of  moderate  height,  the  nearest 
about  two  miles  off,  but  the  whole  chain  ranging  to 
the  east,  south,  and  southwest,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  Their  summits  were  crowned  with  extensive 
tracts  of  pitch  pine,  checkered  with  small  patches  of 
the  quivering  aspen.  Lower  down  were  thick  forests 
of  firs  and  red  cedars,  growing  out  in  many  places 
from  the  very  fissures  of  the  rocks.  The  mountains 
were  broken  and  precipitous,  with  huge  bluffs  pro- 
truding from  among  the  forests.  Their  rocky  recesses, 
and  beetling  cliffs,  afforded  retreats  to  innumerable 
flocks  of  the  bighorn,  while  their  woody  summits  and 
ravines  abounded  with  bears  and  black-tailed  deer. 
These,  with  the  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  that  ranged 
the  lower  grounds  along  the  river,  promised  the  trav- 
ellers abundant  cheer  in  their  winter  quarters. 

On  the  2d  of  November,  therefore,  they  pitched  their 
camp  for  the  winter,  on  the  woody  point,  and  their  first 
thought  was  to  obtain  a  supply  of  provisions.  Ben 
Jones  and  the  two  Canadians  accordingly  sallied  forth, 
accompanied  by  two  others  of  the  party,  leaving  but 
one  to  watch  the  camp.  Their  hunting  was  uncom- 
monly successful.  In  the  course  of  two  days,  they 
killed  thirty-two  buffaloes,  and  collected  their  meat  on 
the  margin  of  a  small  brook,  about  a  mile  distant. 
Fortunately,  a  severe  frost  froze  the  river,  so  that  the 
meat  was  easily  transported  to  the  encampment.  On 
a  succeeding  day,  a  herd  of  buffalo  came  trampling 
through  the  woody  bo^^om  on  the  river  banks,  and  fif- 
teen more  were  killed. 

It  was  soon  discovered,  however,  that  there  was 


i; 


ASTORIA 


391 


was  a 
i-wood. 

0  as  to 
als  for 
;iirrent, 

south- 
nearest 
^ing  to 
e  could 
[tensive 
:hes  of 
forests 

places 
untains 
fs  pro- 
ecesses, 
nerable 
lits  and 

1  deer, 
ranged 
le  trav- 

d  their 
eir  first 
Ben 
I  forth, 
ng  but 
Lincom- 
s,  they 
leat  on 
listant. 
lat  the 
On 
mpling 
md  fif- 


'e   was 


t 


game  of  a  more  dangerous  nature  in  the  neighborhood. 
On  one  occasion,  Mr.  Crooks  had  wandered  about  a 
mile  from  the  camp,  and  had  ascended  a  small  hill  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  river.  He  was  without  his  rifle, 
a  rare  circumstance,  for  in  these  wild  regions,  where 
one  may  put  up  a  wild  animal,  or  a  wild  Indian,  at 
every  turn,  it  is  customary  never  to  stir  from  the  camp- 
fire  unarmed.  The  hill  where  he  stood  overlooked  the 
place  where  the  massacre  of  the  buffalo  had  taken 
place.  As  he  was  looking  around  on  the  prospect,  his 
eye  was  caught  by  an  object  below,  moving  directly 
towards  him.  To  his  dismay,  he  discovered  it  to  be  a 
grizzly  bear,  with  two  cubs.  There  was  no  tree  at  hand 
into  which  he  could  climb;  to  run,  would  only  be  to 
provoke  pursuit,  and  he  should  soon  be  overtaken.  He 
threw  himself  on  the  ground,  therefore,  and  lay  mo- 
tionless, watching  the  movements  of  the  animal  with 
intense  anxiety.  It  continued  to  advance  until  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  when  it  turned,  and  made  into  the 
woods,  having  probably  gorged  itself  with  buffalo  flesh. 
Mr.  Crooks  made  all  haste  back  to  the  camp,  rejoicing 
at  his  escape,  and  determining  never  to  stir  out  again 
without  his  rifle.  A  few  days  after  this  circumstance, 
a  grizzly  bear  was  shot  in  the  neighborhood,  by  Mr. 
Miller. 

As  the  slaughter  of  so  many  buffaloes  had  provided 
the  party  with  beef  for  the  winter,  in  case  they  met 
with  no  further  supply,  they  now  set  to  work,  heart 
and  hand,  to  build  a  comfortable  wigwam.  In  a  little 
while  the  woody  promontory  rang  with  the  unwonted 
sound  of  the  axe.  Some  of  its  lofty  trees  were  laid 
low,  and  by  the  second  evening  the  cabin  was  complete. 
It  was  eight  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  feet  long.  The 
walls  were  six  feet  high,  and  the  whole  was  covered 
with  buffalo  skins.  The  fireplace  was  in  the  centre, 
and  the  smoke  found  its  way  out  by  a  hole  in  the  roof. 

The  hunters  were  next  sent  out  to  procure  deer-skins 


B.1 


/ 


392 


ASTORIA 


'.m  i 


for  garments,  moccasins,  and  other  purposes.  They 
made  the  mountains  echo  with  their  rifles,  and,  in  the 
course  of  two  days'  hunting,  killed  twenty-eight  big- 
horns and  black-tailed  deer. 

The  party  now  revelled  in  abundance.  After  all  that 
they  had  suffered  from  hunger,  cold,  fatigue  and 
watchfulness;  after  all  their  perils  from  treacherous 
and  savage  men,  they  exulted  in  the  snugness  and  se- 
curity of  their  isolated  cabin,  hidden,  as  they  thought, 
even  from  the  prying  eyes  of  Indian  scouts,  and  stored 
wnth  creature  comforts ;  and  they  looked  forward  to 
a  winter  of  peace  and  quietness ;  of  roasting  and  boil- 
ing, and  broiling,  and  feasting  upon  venison,  and 
mountain  mutton,  and  bear's  meat,  and  marrow  bones, 
and  buffalo  humps,  and  other  hunter's  dainties,  and  of 
dozing  and  reposing  round  their  fire,  and  gossiping 
over  past  dangers  and  adventures,  and  telling  long 
hunting  stories,  until  spring  should  return ;  when  they 
would  make  canoes  of  buffalo  skins  and  float  them- 
selves down  the  river. 

From  such  halcyon  dreams,  they  were  startled  one 
morning,  at  dayl3reak,  by  a  savage  yell.  They  started 
up  and  seized  their  rifles.  The  yell  was  repeated  by 
two  or  three  voices.  Cautiously  peeping  out,  they  be- 
held, to  their  dismay,  several  Indian  warriors  among 
the  trees,  all  armed  and  painted  in  warlike  style;  being 
evidently  bent  on  some  hostile  purpose. 

Miller  changed  countenance  as  he  regarded  them. 
"  We  are  in  trouble,"  said  he,  "  these  are  some  of  the 
rascally  Arapahays  that  robbed  me  last  year."  Not  a 
word  was  uttered  by  the  rest  of  the  party,  but  they 
silently  slung  their  powder  horns  and  ball  pouches,  and 
prepared  for  battle.  M'Lellan,  who  had  taken  his  gun 
to  pieces  the  evening  before,  put  it  together  in  all  haste. 
He  proposed  that  they  should  break  out  the  clay  from 
between  the  logs,  so  as  to  be  able  to  fire  upon  the 
enemy. 


,1) 


They 
in  the 
ht  big- 
all  that 
xe   and 
:herous 
and  se- 
iiought. 
1  stored 
vard  to 
lid  boil- 
)n,    and 
/  bones, 
,  and  of 
Dssiping 


ig 


long 


len  they 
,t  them- 

;led  one 
started 

■ated  by 
hey  bc- 
among 
;  being 

them. 

of  the 

Not  a 

kit  they 

pes,  and 

his  gun 

111  haste. 

ly  from 

Don  the 


ASTORIA 


393 


,0 


Or 


replied  Stuart ;   "  it  will  not  do  to  show 
^^ ;    we  must  first  hold  a  parley.     Some 
'd  meet  them  as  a  friend." 

^'e  the  task!    It  was  full  of  peril, 
'lown  at  the  threshold. 

'^1  Miller,  "  always  takes 


<^  'zf  ^  r:r  -j^  Nf^ 


6 


:r^ 


:^v 


idv."     He  im~ 

"s  followed 

"son,  to 


^^ 


<> 
<■ 


"=5     ^ 


^'S  S 


and,  and 

ared  to  be 

cook  it ;   his 

V  hands  with 

now  explained 

.y  of  Arapahay 

am  several  days' 

oeen  attacked  and 

jand  of  Crows,  who 

women,  and  most  of 

jst  of  vengeance.     For 

acking  the  Crows  about 

yet  come  upon  them.     In 

,t  with  scarcely  any  game. 

About  two  days  previously, 

/ort  of   fire-arms   among  the 

i'ching  in  the  direction  of  the 

X  place  where  a  deer  had  been 

mediately  put  themselves  upon  the 

s,  and  by  following  it  up,  had  ar- 


w  invited  the  chief  and  another,  who 

his  lieutenant,  into  the  hut,  but  made 

jne  else  was  to  enter.    The  rest  halted  at 

.hers  came  straggling  up,  until  the  whole 

.le  number  of  twenty-three,  were  gathered 


i 


392 


ASTORIA 


^|#-.^wm 


for  garments,  moccasins,  and  other  pur*- 
made  the  moimtains  echo  with  their  - " 
course  of  two  days'  hunting,  ki^' 
horns  and  ])lack-tailed  deer. 

The  party  now  reveller' 
they   had    suffered    ^ 
watchfulness;    " ' 
and  savage 
curity  «^ " 
even  fi 
with  crc 
a  winter  v 
ing,    and    . 
mountain  m 
and  buffalo  h 
dozing  and  re^ 
over  past  dangv 
hunting  stories,  u 
would  make  canot 
selves  down  the  rive. 

From  such  halcyot. 
morning,  at  daybreak, 
up  and  seized  their  rifk 
two  or  three  voices.     Cai, 
held,  to  their  dismay,  sevt 
the  trees,  all  armed  and  pain 
evidently  bent  on  some  hostile 

Miller  changed  countenance 
"  We  are  in  trouble,"  said  he,  *" 
rascally  ^'Vrapahays  that  robbed  n 
word  was  uttered  by  the  rest  of 
silently  slung  their  powder  horns  am 
prepared  for  battle.    M'Lellan,  who  K 
to  pieces  the  evening  before,  put  it  toge^ 
He  proposed  that  they  should  break  out 
between  the  logs,  so  as  to  be  able  to  i 
enemy. 


of 


<>. 


-..^„'?.;^-" 


^^    kS>    -O.    O     CK,  <>^   <\    "X    o    V-   V   <> 


^ 


ASTORIA 


393 


(( 


n    <^   ^   ^^      >   <. . 


V    >$.   <^  •;  v>^/> 


^  <>  ^  -^  '^A  ■ 


Not  yet,"  replied  Stuart ;  "  it  will  not  do  to  show 
fear  or  distrust ;  we  must  first  hold  a  parley.  Some 
one  must  go  out  and  meet  them  as  a  friend." 

Who  was  to  undertake  the  task !  It  was  full  of  peril, 
as  the  envoy  might  be  shot  down  at  the  threshold. 

"  The  leader  of  a  party,"  said  Miller,  **  always  takes 
the  advance." 

"Good!"  replied  Stuart;  "I  am  ready."  He  im- 
mediately went  forth ;  one  of  the  Canadians  followed 
him ;  the  rest  of  the  party  remained  in  the  garrison,  to 
keep  the  savages  in  check. 

Stuart  advanced  holding  his  rifle  in  one  hand,  and 
extending  the  other  to  the  savage  that  appeared  to  be 
the  chief.  The  latter  stepped  forward  and  took  it ;  his 
men  followed  his  example,  and  all  shook  hands  with 
Stuart,  in  token  of  friendship.  They  now  explained 
their  errand.  They  were  a  war  party  of  Arapahay 
braves.  Their  village  lay  on  a  stream  several  days' 
journey  to  the  eastward.  It  had  been  attacked  and 
ravaged  during  their  a1)sence,  by  a  band  of  Crows,  who 
had  carried  off  several  of  their  women,  and  most  of 
their  horses.  They  were  in  quest  of  vengeance.  For 
sixteen  days  they  had  been  tracking  the  Crows  about 
the  mountains,  but  had  not  yet  come  upon  them.  In 
the  meantime,  they  had  met  with  scarcely  any  game, 
and  were  half  famished.  About  two  days  previously, 
they  had  heard  the  report  of  fire-arms  among  the 
mountains,  and  on  searching  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound,  had  come  to  a  place  where  a  deer  had  been 
killed.  They  had  immediately  put  themselves  upon  the 
track  of  the  hunters,  and  by  following  it  up,  had  ar- 
rived at  the  cabin. 

Mr.  Stuart  now  invited  the  chief  and  another,  who 
appeared  to  be  his  lieutenant,  into  the  hut,  but  made 
signs  that  no  one  else  was  to  enter.  The  rest  halted  at 
the  door;  others  came  straggling  up,  until  the  whole 
party,  to  the  number  of  twenty-three,  were  gathered 


'Mi 


i  'I 

i  11 


.1 


394 


ASTORIA 


ir\ 


before  the  hut.  They  were  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  tomahawks  and  scalping-knives,  and  some  few 
with  guns.  All  were  painted  and  dressed  for  war,  and 
had  a  wild  and  fierce  appearance.  Mr.  Miller  recog- 
nized among  them  some  of  tlie  very  fellows  who  had 
robbed  him  in  the  preceding  year;  and  put  his  com- 
rades upon  their  guard.  Every  man  stood  ready  to 
resist  the  first  act  of  hostility;  the  savages,  however, 
conducted  themselves  peaceably,  and  showed  none  of 
that  swaggering  arrogance  which  a  war  party  is  apt 
to  assume. 

On  entering  the  hut  the  chief  and  his  lieutenant  cast 
a  wistful  look  at  the  rafters,  laden  with  venison  and 
buffalo  meat.  Mr.  Stuart  ma:le  a  merit  of  necessity, 
and  invited  them  to  help  themselves.  They  did  not 
wait  to  be  pressed.  The  rafters  were  soon  eased  of 
their  burden ;  venison  and  beef  were  passed  out  to  the 
crew  before  the  door,  and  a  scene  of  gormandizing 
commenced,  of  which  few  can  have  an  idea,  who  have 
not  witnessed  the  gastronomic  powers  of  an  Indian, 
after  an  interval  of  fasting.  This  was  kept  up 
throughout  the  day;  they  paused  now  and  then,  it  is 
true,  for  a  brief  interval,  but  only  to  return  to  the 
charge  with  renewed  ardor.  The  chief  and  the  lieu- 
tenant surpassed  all  the  rest  in  the  vigor  and  perse- 
verance of  their  attacks;  as  if  from  their  station  they 
were  bound  to  signalize  themselves  in  all  onslaughts. 
Mr.  Stuart  kept  them  well  supplied  with  choice  bits, 
for  it  was  his  policy  to  overfeed  them,  and  keep  them 
from  leaving  the  hut,  where  they  served  as  hostages 
for  the  good  conduct  of  their  followers.  Once,  only, 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  did  the  chief  sally  forth.  Mr. 
Stuart  and  one  of  his  men  accompanied  him,  armed 
with  their  rifles,  but  without  betraying  any  distrust. 
The  chieftain  soon  returned,  and  renewed  his  attack 
,  upon  the  larder.  In  a  word,  he  and  his  worthy  coad- 
jutor, the  lieutenant,  ate  until  they  were  both  stupefied. 


ASTORIA 


395 


Towards  evening  the  Indians  made  their  prepara- 
tions for  the  night  according  to  the  practice  of  war 
parties.  Those  outside  of  the  hut  threw  up  two  breast- 
works, into  which  they  retired  at  a  tolerably  early  hour, 
and  slept  like  overfed  hounds.  As  to  the  chief  and  his 
lieutenant,  they  passed  the  night  in  the  hut,  in  the 
course  of  which,  they,  two  or  three  times,  got  up  to 
eat.  The  travellers  took  turns,  one  at  a  time,  to  mount 
guard  until  the  morning. 

Scarce  had  the  day  dawned,  when  the  gormandizing 
was  renewed  by  the  whole  band,  and  carried  on  with 
surprising  vigor  until  ten  o'clock,  when  all  prepared 
to  depart.  They  had  six  days'  journey  yet  to  make, 
they  said,  before  they  should  come  up  with  the  Crows, 
who,  tliey  understood,  were  encamped  on  a  river  to 
the  northward.  Their  way  lay  through  a  hungry  coun- 
try where  there  was  no  game;  they  would,  moreover, 
have  but  little  time  to  hunt;  they,  therefore,  craved  a 
small  supply  of  provisions  for  their  journey.  Mr. 
Stuart  again  invited  them  to  help  themselves.  They 
did  so  with  keen  forethought,  loading  themselves  with 
the  choicest  parts  of  the  meat,  and  leaving  the  late 
plenteous  larder  far  gone  in  a  consumption.  Their 
next  request  was  for  a  supply  of  ammunition,  having 
guns,  but  no  powder  and  ball.  They  promised  to  pay 
magnificently  out  of  the  spoils  of  their  foray.  "  We 
are  poor  now,"  said  they,  "  and  are  obliged  to  go  on 
foot,  but  we  shall  soon  come  back  laden  with  booty, 
and  all  mounted  on  horseback,  with  scalps  hanging 
at  our  bridles.  We  will  then  give  each  of  you 
a  horse  to  keep  you  from  being  tired  on  your 
journey." 

*'  Well,"  said  Mr.  Stuart,  "  when  you  bring  the 
horses,  you  shall  have  the  ammunition,  but  not  before." 
The  Indians  saw  by  his  determined  tone,  that  all  fur- 
ther entreaty  would  be  unavailing,  so  they  desisted,  with 
a  good-humored  laugh,  and  went  off  exceedingly  well 


I  I 


Kir'  / 


II 


396 


ASTORIA 


freighted,  both  within  and  without,  promising  to  be 
back  again  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight. 

No  sooner  were  they  out  of  hearing,  than  the  luck- 
less travellers  held  another  council.  The  security  of 
tlieir  cabin  was  at  an  end,  and  with  it  all  their  dreams 
of  a  quiet  and  cozey  winter.  They  were  between  two 
fires.  On  one  side  were  their  old  enemies,  the  Crows ; 
on  the  other  side,  the  Arapahays,  no  less  dangerous 
freebooters.  As  to  the  moderation  of  this  war  party, 
they  considered  it  assumed,  to  put  them  off  their  guard 
against  some  more  favorable  opportunity  for  a  sur- 
prisal.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  not  to  await 
their  return,  but  to  abandon,  with  all  speed,  this  dan- 
gerous neighborhood.  From  the  accounts  of  their 
recent  visitors,  they  were  led  to  believe,  though  erro- 
neously, that  they  were  upon  the  Quicourt,  or  Rapid 
River.  They  proposed  now  to  keep  along  it  to  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Missouri ;  but,  should  they  be  pre- 
vented by  the  rigors  of  the  season  from  proceeding 
so  far,  at  least  to  reach  a  part  of  the  river  where  they 
might  be  able  to  construct  canoes  of  greater  strength 
and  durability  than  those  of  buffalo  skins. 

Accordingly,  on  the  13th  of  December,  they  bade 
adieu,  with  many  a  regret,  to  their  comfortable  quar- 
ters where  for  five  weeks  they  had  been  indulging  the 
sweets  of  repose,  of  plenty,  and  of  fancied  security. 
They  were  still  accompanied  by  their  veteran  pack- 
horse,  which  the  Arapahays  had  omitted  to  steal  either 
because  they  intended  to  steal  him  on  their  return,  or 
because  they  thought  him  not  worth  stealing. 


P?i 


ASTORIA 


397 


ng  to  be 

the  luck- 
ciirity  of 
r  dreams 
A'een  two 
e  Crows ; 
langerous 
ar  party, 
eir  guard 
3r  a  sur- 
to  await 
this  dan- 

of  their 
ugh  erro- 
or  Rapid 
o  its  con- 
y  be  pre- 
roceeding 
here  they 

strength 

ey  bade 
:)le  quar- 
ging  the 
security, 
an  pack- 
eal  either 
eturn,  or 


CHAPTER  L 

The  interval  of  comfort  and  repose  which  the  party 
had  enjoyed  in  their  wigwam,  rendered  the  renewal  of 
their  fatigues  intolerable  for  the  first  two  or  three  days. 
The  snow  lay  deep,  and  was  slightly  frozen  on  the  sur- 
face, but  not  sufficiently  to  bear  their  weight.  Their 
feet  became  sore  by  breaking  through  the  crust,  and 
their  limbs  weary  by  floundering  on  without  firm  foot- 
hold. So  exhausted  and  dispirited  were  they,  that 
they  began  to  think  it  would  be  better  to  remain  and 
run  the  risk  of  being  killed  by  the  Indians,  than  to  drag 
on  thus  painfully,  with  the  probability  of  perishing 
by  the  way.  Their  miserable  horse  fared  no  better 
than  themselves,  having  for  the  first  day  or  two  no 
other  fodder  than  the  ends  of  willow  twigs,  and  the 
bark  of  the  cotton- wood  tree. 

They  all,  however,  appeared  to  gain  patience  and 
hardihood  as  they  proceeded,  and  for  fourteen  days 
kept  steadily  on,  making  a  distance  of  about  three  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles.  For  some  days,  the  range  of 
mountains  which  had  been  near  to  their  wigwam  kept 
parallel  to  the  river  at  no  great  distance,  but  at  length 
subsided  into  hills.  Sometimes  they  found  the  river 
bordered  with  alluvial  bottoms,  and  groves  with  cotton- 
wood  and  willows;  sometimes  the  adjacent  country 
was  naked  and  barren.  In  one  place  it  ran  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  between  rocky  hills  and  promon- 
tories covered  with  cedar  and  pitch  pines,  and  peopled 
with  the  bighorn  and  the  mountain  deer;  at  other 
places  it  wandered  through  prairies  well  stocked  with 
buffaloes  and  antelopes.  As  they  descended  the  course 
of  the  river,  they  began  to  perceive  the  ash  and  white 
oak  here  and  there  among  the  cotton-wood  and  willow ; 
and  at  length  caught  a  sight  of  some  wild  horses  on  the 
distant  prairies. 


ii' 


<  >i 


I  >i 


'\n\ 


BN? 


398 


ASTORIA 


The  weather  was  various ;  at  one  time  the  snovy  lay 
deep;  then  they  had  a  genial  day  or  two,  with  the 
mildness  and  serenity  of  autumn ;  then,  again,  the 
frost  was  so  severe  that  the  river  was  sufficiently 
frozen  to  bear  them  upon  the  ice. 

During  the  last  three  days  of  their  fortnight's  travel, 
however,  the  face  of  the  country  changed.  The  timber 
gradually  diminished,  until  they  could  scarcely  find  fuel 
sufficient  for  culinary  purposes.  The  game  grew  more 
and  more  scanty,  and,  finally,  none  were  to  be  seen 
but  a  few  miserable  broken-down  buffalo  bulls,  not 
worth  killing.  The  snow  lay  fifteen  inches  deep,  and 
made  the  travelling  grievously  painful  and  toilsome. 
At  length  they  came  to  an  immense  plain,  where  no 
vestige  of  timber  was  to  be  seen;  nor  a  single  quad- 
ruped to  enliven  the  desolate  landscape.  Here,  then, 
their  hearts  failed  them,  and  they  held  another  consul- 
tation. The  width  of  the  river,  which  was  upwards  of 
a  mile,  its  extreme  shallowness,  the  frequency  of  quick- 
sands, and  various  other  characteristics,  had  at  length 
made  them  sensible  of  their  errors  with  respect  to  it, 
and  they  now  came  to  the  correct  conclusion,  that  they 
were  on  the  banks  of  the  Platte  or  Shallow  River. 
What  were  they  to  do?  Pursue  its  course  to  the  Mis- 
souri? To  go  on  at  this  season  of  the  year  seemed 
dangerous  in  the  extreme.  There  was  no  prospect  of 
obtaining  either  food  or  firing.  The  country  was  desti- 
tute of  trees,  and  though  there  might  be  driftwood 
along  the  river,  it  lay  too  deep  beneath  the  snow  for 
them  to  find  it. 

The  weather  was  threatening  a  change,  and  a  snow- 
storm on  these  boundless  wastes  might  prove  as  fatal 
as  a  whirlwind  of  sand  on  an  Arabian  desert.  After 
much  dreary  deliberation,  it  was  at  length  determined 
to  retrace  their  three  last  days'  journey,  of  seventy- 
seven  miles,  to  a  place  which  they  had  remarked  where 
there  was  a  sheltering  growth  of  forest  trees,  and  a 


ASTORIA 


399 


sno\y  lay 

witli  the 

gain,  the 

efficiently 

t's  travel, 
he  timber 
■  find  fuel 
rew  more 
)  be  seen 
:)ulls,   not 
deep,  and 
toilsome, 
where  no 
gle  qitad- 
ere,  then, 
tr  consul- 
)wards  of 
of  quick- 
at  length 
)ect  to  it, 
hat  they 
w  River, 
the  Mis- 
seemed 
ospect  of 
as  desti- 
riftwood 
snow  for 

a  snow- 
as  fatal 
After 
termined 
seventy- 
ed  where 
;s,  and  a 


country  abimdant  in  game.  Here  they  would  once 
more  set  up  their  winter  cjuarters,  and  await  the  open- 
ing of  the  navigation  to  launch  themselves  in  canoes. 

Accordingly,  on  the  27th  of  December,  tliey  faced 
about,  retraced  their  steps,  and  on  tlie  30th,  regained 
the  part  of  the  river  in  question.  Here  the  alluvial 
bottom  was  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  and  thickly 
covered  with  a  forest  of  cotton-wood  trees ;  while 
herds  of  buffalo  were  scattered  about  the  neighboring 
prairie,  several  of  which  soon  fell  beneath  their  rifles. 

They  encamped  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  in  a 
grove  where  there  were  trees  large  enough  for  canoes. 
Here  they  put  up  a  shed  for  immediate  shelter,  and 
immediately  proceeded  to  erect  a  hut.  New- Year's 
day  dawned  when,  as  yet,  but  one  wall  of  their  cabin 
was  completed ;  the  genial  and  jovial  day,  however, 
was  not  permitted  to  pass  uncelebrated,  even  by  this 
weather-beaten  crew  of  wanderers.  All  work  was  sus- 
pended, except  that  of  roasting  and  boiling.  The 
choicest  of  the  buffalo  meat,  with  tongues,  and  humps, 
and  marrow  bones,  were  devoured  in  quantities  that 
would  astonish  any  one  that  has  not  lived  among 
hunters  or  Indians;  and  as  an  extra  regale,  having 
no  tobacco  left,  they  cut  up  an  old  tobacco  pouch,  still 
redolent  with  the  potent  herb,  and  smoked  it  in  honor 
of  the  day.  Thus  for  a  time,  in  present  revelry,  how- 
ever uncouth,  they  forgot  all  past  troubles  and  all 
anxieties  about  the  future,  and  their  forlorn  wigwam 
echoed  to  the  sound  of  gayety. 

The  next  day  they  resumed  their  labors,  and  by  the 
6th  of  the  month  it  was  complete.  They  soon  killed 
abundance  of  buffalo,  and  again  laid  in  a  stock  of 
winter  provisions. 

The  party  were  more  fortunate  in  this  their  second 
cantonment.  The  winter  passed  away  without  any 
Indian  visitors,  and  the  game  continued  to  be  plenty 
in  the  neighborhood.    They  felled  two  large  trees,  and 


3 


400 


ASTORIA 


shaped  them  into  canoes ;  and,  as  the  spring  opened, 
and  a  thaw  of  several  days'  continuance  melted  the  ice 
in  the  river,  they  made  every  preparation  for  embark- 
ing. On  the  8th  of  March  they  launched  forth  in  their 
canoes,  but  soon  found  that  the  river  had  not  depth 
sufficient  even  for  such  slender  barks.  It  expanded 
into  a  wide  but  extremely  shallow  stream,  w4th  many 
sand-bars,  and  occasionally  various  channels.  They 
got  one  of  their  canoes  a  few  miles  down  it,  with  ex- 
treme difficulty,  sometimes  wading,  and  dragging  it 
over  the  shoals;  at  length  they  had  to  abandon  the 
attempt,  and  to  resume  their  journey  on  foot,  aided 
by  their  faithful  old  pack-horse,  who  had  recruited 
strength  during  the  repose  of  the  winter. 

The  weather  delayed  them  for  a  few  days,  having 
suddenly  become  more  rigorous  than  it  had  been  at  any 
time  during  the  winter ;  but  on  the  20th  of  March  they 
were  again  on  their  journey. 

In  two  days  they  arrived  at  the  vast  naked  prairie, 
the  wintry  aspect  of  which  had  caused  them,  in  Decem- 
ber, to  pause  and  turn  back.  It  was  now  clothed  in  the 
early  verdure  of  spring,  and  plentifully  stocked  with 
game.  Still,  when  obliged  to  bivouac  on  its  bare  sur- 
face, without  any  shelter,  and  by  a  scanty  fire  of  dry 
buffalo  dung,  they  found  the  night  blasts  piercing  cold. 
On  one  occasion,  a  herd  of  buffalo  straying  near  their 
evening  camp,  they  killed  three  of  them  merely  for 
their  hides,  wherewith  to  make  a  shelter  for  the 
night. 

They  continued  on  for  upwards  of  a  hundred  miles ; 
with  vast  prairies  extending  before  them  as  they  ad- 
vanced ;  sometimes  diversified  by  undulating  hills,  but 
destitute  of  trees.  In  one  place  they  saw  a  gang  of 
sixty-five  wild  horses,  but  as  to  the  buffaloes,  they 
seemed  absolutely  to  cover  the  country.  Wild  geese 
abounded,  and  they  passed  extensive  swamps  that  were 
alive  with  innumerable  flocks  of  water-fowl,  among 


ASTORIA 


401 


g  opened, 
ed  the  ice 
r  enil)ark- 
th  in  their 
not  depth 
expanded 
kvith  many 
ils.     They 
t,  with  ex- 
ragging  it 
jandon  the 
foot,  aided 
1  recruited 

:iys,  having 
been  at  any 
March  they 

ked  prairie, 
in  Decem- 

Dthed  in  the 

ocked  with 

ts  bare  sur- 
fire  of  dry 

lercing  cold. 

e;  near  their 
merely  for 

ter    for    the 


idred  miles ; 

as  they  ad- 

.ng  hills,  but 

a  gang  of 

ffaloes,  they 

Wild  geese 

ps  that  were 

owl,  among 


V 


which  were  a  few  swans,  hut  an  endless  variety  of 
ducks. 

The  river  continued  a  winding  course  to  the  cast- 
northeast,  nearly  a  mile  in  width,  hut  too  shallow  to 
float  even  an  empty  canoe.  The  country  spread  out 
into  a  vast  level  plain,  bounded  by  the  horizon  alone, 
excepting  to  the  north,  where  a  line  of  hills  seemed  hke 
a  long  promontory  stretching  into  the  bosom  of  the 
ocean.  The  dreary  sameness  of  the  prairie  wastes 
began  to  grow  extremely  irksome.  The  travellers 
longed  for  the  sight  of  a  forest,  or  grove,  or  single 
tree,  to  break  the  level  uniformity,  and  began  to  notice 
every  object  that  gave  reason  to  hope  they  were  draw- 
ing towards  the  end  of  this  weary  wilderness.  Thus 
the  occurrence  of  a  particular  kind  of  grass  was  hailed 
as  a  proof  that  they  could  not  be  far  from  the  bottoms 
of  the  Missouri ;  and  they  were  rejoiced  at  putting  up 
several  prairie  hens,  a  kind  of  grouse  seldom  found 
far  in  the  interior.  In  picking  up  driftwood  for  fuel, 
also,  they  found  on  some  pieces  the  mark  of  an  axe, 
which  caused  much  speculation  as  to  the  time  when  and 
the  persons  by  whom  the  trees  had  been  felled.  Thus 
they  went  on,  like  sailors  at  sea,  who  perceive  in  every 
floating  weed  and  wandering  bird,  harbingers  of  the 
wished-for  land. 

By  the  close  of  the  month  the  weather  became  very 
mild,  and,  heavily  burdened  as  they  were,  they  found 
the  noontide  temperature  uncomfortably  warm.  On 
the  30th,  they  came  to  three  deserted  hunting  camps, 
either  of  Pawnees  or  Ottoes,  about  which  were  buffalo 
skulls  in  all  directions;  and  the  frames  on  which  the 
hides  had  been  stretched  and  cured.  ^  They  had  appar- 
ently been  occupied  the  preceding  autumn. 

For  several  days  they  kept  patiently  on,  watching 
every  sign  that  might  give  them  an  idea  as  to  where 
they  were,  and  how  near  to  the  banks  of  the  Missouri. 

Though   there   were    numerous   traces   of   hunting 

26 


/ 


.  ^ 


402 


ASTORIA 


parties  and  encampments,  they  were  not  of  recent  date. 
The  country  seemed  deserted.  The  only  human  beings 
they  met  with  were  three  Pawnee  squaws,  in  a  hut  in 
the  midst  of  a  deserted  camp.  Their  people  had  all 
gone  to  the  south,  in  pursuit  of  the  buffalo,  and  had 
left  these  poor  women  behind,  being  too  sick  and  in- 
firm to  travel. 

It  is  a  common  practice  with  the  Pawnees,  and  prob- 
ably with  other  roving  tribes,  when  departing  on  a  dis- 
tant expedition,  which  will  not  admit  of  incumbrance 
or  delay,  to  leave  their  aged  and  infirm  with  a  supply 
of  provisions  sufficient  for  a  temporary  subsistence. 
When  this  is  exhausted,  they  must  perish ;  though 
sometimes  their  sufferings  are  abridged  by  hostile 
prowlers  who  may  visit  the  deserted  camp. 

The  poor  squaws  in  question  expected  some  such 
fate  at  the  hands  of  the  white  strangers,  and  though 
the  latter  accosted  them  in  the  kindest  manner,  and 
made  them  presents  of  dried  buffalo  meat,  it  was  im- 
possible to  soothe  their  alarm,  or  get  any  information 
from  them. 

The  first  landmark  by  which  the  travellers  were 
enabled  to  conjecture  their  position  with  any  degree  of 
confidence,  was  an  island  about  seventy  miles  in  length, 
which  they  presumed  to  be  Grand  Isle.  If  so,  they 
were  within  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  of  the  Mis- 
souri. They  kept  on,  therefore,  with  renewed  spirit, 
and  at  the  end  of  three  days  met  with  an  Otto  Indian, 
,by  whiom  they  vvere  confirmed  in  their  conjecture. 
They  learnt  at  the  same  time  another  piece  of  informa- 
tion, of  an  uncomfortable  nature.  According  to  his 
account,  there  was  war  between  the  United  States  and 
England,  and  in  fact  it  had  existed  for  a  whole  year, 
during  which  time  they  had  been  beyond  the  reach  of 
all  knowledge  of  the  affairs  of  the  civilized  world. 

The  Otto  conducted  the  travellers  to  his  village,  situ- 
ated a  short  distance  from  the  banks  of  the  Platte. 


ASTORIA 


403 


cent  date, 
an  beings 
I  a  hut  in 
e  had  all 
and  had 
k  and  in- 

and  prob- 
•  on  a  dis- 
umbrance 
I  a  supply 
ibsistence. 
;  though 
)y   hostile 

jome  such 
id  though 
nner,  and 
t  was  im- 
formation 

Hers  were 
degree  of 
in  length, 
■  so,  they 

the  Mis- 

ved  spirit. 

o  Indian, 

onjecture. 

informa- 
ng  to  his 
States  and 
hole  year, 

reach  of 
vorld. 
lage,  situ- 
he  Platte. 


Here  they  were  delighted  to  meet  with  two  white  men, 
Messrs.  Dornin  and  Roi,  Indian  traders  recently  from 
St.  Louis.  Of  these  they  had  a  thousand  inquiries  to 
make  concerning  all  affairs,  foreign  and  domestic,  dur- 
ing their  year  of  sepulture  in  the  wilderness;  and  espe- 
cially about  the  events  of  the  existing  war. 

They  now  prepared  to  abandon  their  weary  travel 
by  land,  and  to  embark  upon  the  water.  A  bargain 
was  made  with  Mr.  Dornin,  who  engaged  to  furnish 
them  with  a  canoe  and  provisions  for  the  voyage,  in 
exchange  for  their  venerable  and  well-tried  fellow- 
traveller,  the  old  Snake  horse. 

Accordingly,  in  a  couple  of  days,  the  Indians  em- 
ployed by  that  gentleman  constructed  for  them  a  canoe 
twenty  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  inches 
deep.  The  frame  was  of  poles  and  willow  twigs,  on 
which  were  stretched  five  elk  and  buffalo  hides,  sewed 
together  with  sinews,  and  the  seams  payed  with  unctu- 
ous mud.  In  this  they  embarked  at  an  early  hour  on 
the  1 6th  of  April,  and  drifted  down  ten  miles  with  the 
stream,  when  the  wind  being  high  they  encamped,  and 
set  to  work  to  make  oars,  which  they  had  not  been  able 
to  procure  at  the  Indian  village. 

Once  more  afloat,  they  went  merrily  down  the 
stream,  and  after  making  thirty-five  miles,  emerged 
into  the  broad  turbid  current  of  the  Missouri.  Here 
they  were  borne  along  briskly  by  the  rapid  stream ; 
though,  by  the  time  their  fragile  bark  had  floated  a 
couple  of  hundred  miles,  its  frame  began  to  show  the 
effects  of  the  voyage.  Luckily  they  came  to  the  de- 
serted wintering  place  of  some  hunting  party,  where 
they  found  two  old  wooden  canoes.  Taking  possession 
of  the  largest,  they  again  committed  themselves  to  the 
current,  and  after  dropping  down  fifty-five  miles  fur- 
ther, arrived  safely  at  l^ort  Osage. 

Here  they  found  Lieutenant  Brownson  still  in  com- 
mand ;  the  ofiicer  who  had  given  the  expedition  a  hos- 


404 


ASTORIA 


m"  ''* 


pitable  reception  on  its  way  up  the  river,  eighteen 
months  previously.  He  received  this  remnant  of  the 
party  with  a  cordial  welcome,  and  endeavored  in  every 
way  to  promote  their  comfort  and  enjpyment  during 
their  sojourn  at  the  fort.  The  greatest  luxury  they 
met  with  on  their  return  to  the  abode  of  civilized  man, 
was  bread,  not  having  tasted  any  for  nearly  a  year. 

Their  stay  at  Fort  Osage  was  but  short.  On  re- 
embarking  they  were  furnished  with  an  ample  supply 
of  provisions  by  the  kindness  of  Lieutenant  Brownson, 
and  performed  the  rest  of  their  voyage  without  ad- 
verse circumstance.  On  the  30th  of  April  they  ar- 
rived in  perfect  health  and  fine  spirits  at  St.  Louis, 
having  been  ten  months  in  performing  this  perilous 
expedition  from  Astoria.  Their  return  caused  quite  a 
sensation  at  the  place,  bringing  the  first  intelligence  of 
the  fortune  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  in  their  ad- 
venturous route  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  of 
the  new  establishment  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER  LI 

It  is  now  necessary,  in  linking  together  the  parts  of 
this  excursive  narrative,  that  we  notice  the  proceed- 
ings of  Mr.  Astor  in  support  of  his  great  undertaking. 
His  project  with  respect  to  the  Russian  establishments 
along  the  northwest  coast  had  been  diligently  prose- 
cuted. The  agent  sent  by  him  to  St.  Petersburgh,  to 
negotiate  in  his  name  as  president  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  had,  under  sanction  of  the  Russian  govern- 
ment, made  a  provisional  agreement  with  the  Russian 
company. 

By  this  agreement,  which  was  ratified  by  Mr.  Astor 
in  18 1 3,  the  two  companies  bound  themselves  not  to 
interfere  with  each  other's  trading  and  hunting 
grounds,  nor  to  furnish  arms  and  ammunition  to  the 


l#- 


eighteen 
It  of  the 

in  every 
[t  during 
ury  they 
zed  man, 
a  year. 

On  re- 
ile  supply 
;  row  n  son, 
thout  ad- 

they  ar- 
5t.  Louis, 
3  perilous 
2d  quite  a 
ligence  of 

their  ad- 
is,  and  of 
^acific. 


ASTORIA 


405 


e  parts  of 
proceed- 
dertaking. 
)lishments 
tly  prose- 
sburgh,  to 
erican  Fur 
in  govern- 
le  Russian 

Mr.  Astor 
ves  not  to 
1  hunting 
;ion  to  the 


neighborhood 
irregular  trade 


Indians.  They  were  to  act  in  concert,  also,  against 
all  interlopers,  and  to  succor  each  other  in  case  of 
danger.  The  American  company  was  to  have  the  ex- 
clusive right  of  supplying  the  Russian  posts  with 
goods  and  necessaries,  receiving  peltries  in  payment  at 
stated  prices.  They  were,  also,  if  so  requested  by  the 
Russian  governor,  to  convey  the  furs  of  the  Russian 
company  to  Canton,  sell  them  on  commission,  and 
bring  back  the  proceeds,  at  such  freight  as  might  be 
agreed  on  at  the  time.  This  agreement  was  to  con- 
tinue in  operation  four  years,  and  to  be  renewable  for 
a  similar  term,  unless  some  unforeseen  contingency 
should  render  a  modification  necessary. 

It  was  calculated  to  be  of  great  service  to  the  infant 
establishment  at  Astoria ;  dispelling  the  fears  of  hos- 
tile rivalry  on  the  part  of  the  foreign  companies  in  its 
nnd  giving  a  formidable  blow  to  the 
^r-.^g  the  coast.  It  was  also  the  inten- 
tion of  Mr.  A  .  <o  have  coasting  vessels  of  his  own, 
at  Astoria,  of  small  tonnage  and  draft  of  water,  fitted 
for  coasting  service.  These,  having  a  place  of  shelter 
and  deposit,  could  ply  about  the  coast  in  short  voyages, 
in  favorable  weather,  and  would  have  vast  advantage 
over  chance  ships,  which  must  make  long  voyages, 
maintain  numerous  crews,  and  could  only  approach  the 
coast  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  He  hoped,  there- 
fore, gradually  to  make  Astoria  the  great  emporium 
of  the  American  fur  trade  in  the  Pacific,  and  the  nu- 
cleus of  a  powerful  American  state.  Unfortunately 
for  these  sanguine  anticipations,  before  Mr.  Astor  had 
ratified  the  agreement,  as  above  stated,  war  broke  out 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  He  per- 
ceived at  once  the  peril  of  the  case.  The  harbor  of 
New  York  would  doubtless  be  blockaded,  and  the  de- 
parture of  the  annual  supply  ship  in  the  autumn  pre- 
vented; or,  if  she  should  succeed  in  getting  out  to 
sea,  she  might  be  captured  on  her  voyage.  '^ 


'  ii 


i ! 


4o6 


ASTORIA 


In  this  emergency,  he  wrote  to  Captain  Sowle,  com- 
mander of  the  Beaver.  The  letter,  which  was  ad- 
dressed to  him  at  Canton,  directed  him  to  proceed  to 
the  factory  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cohimhia,  with  such 
articles  as  the  establishment  might  need ;  and  to  re- 
main there,  subject  to  the  orders  of  Air.  Hunt,  should 
that  gentleman  be  in  command  there. 

The  war  continued.  No  tidings  had  yet  been  re- 
ceived from  Astoria;  the  dispatches  having  been  de- 
layed by  the  misadventure  of  Mr.  Reed  at  the  falls 
of  the  Columbia,  and  the  unhorsing  of  Mr.  Stuart  by 
the  Crows  among  the  mountains.  A  painful  uncer- 
tainty, also,  prevailed  about  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party. 
Nothing  had  been  heard  of  them  since  their  departure 
from  the  Arickara  village ;  Lisa,  who  parted  from 
them  there,  had  predicted  their  destruction ;  and  some 
of  the  traders  of  the  Northwest  Company  had  actually 
spread  a  rumor  of  their  having  been  cut  off  by  the 
Indians. 

It  waL  a  hard  trial  of  the  courage  and  means  of  an 
individual  to  have  to  fit  out  another  costly  expedition, 
where  so  much  had  already  been  expended,  so  much  un- 
certainty prevailed,  and  where  the  risk  of  loss  was  so 
greatly  enhanced,  that  no  insurance  could  be  effected. 

In  spite  of  all  these  discouragements,  Mr.  Astor  de- 
termined to  send  another  ship  to  the  relief  of  the  set- 
tlement. He  selected  for  this  purpose  a  vessel  called 
the  Lark,  remarkable  for  her  fast  sailing.  The  dis- 
ordered state  of  the  times,  however,  caused  such  a 
delay,  that  February  arrived,  while  the  vessel  was  yet 
lingering  in  port. 

At  this  juncture,  Mr.  Astor  learnt  that  the  North- 
west Company  were  preparing  to  send  out  an  armed 
ship  of  twenty  guns,  called  the  Isaac  Todd,  to  form  an 
establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  These 
tidings  gave  him  great  uneasiness.  A  considerable 
proportion  of  the  persons  in  his  employ  were  Scotch- 


ASTORIA 


407 


'le,  corn- 
was  ad- 
oceed  to 
nth  such 
id  to  re- 
t,  should 

been  re- 
been  de- 
the  falls 
Stuart  by 
ul  uncer- 
tiis  party, 
departure 
ted   from 
and  some 
d  actually 
)ff  by  the 

ans  of  an 
xpedition, 
much  un- 
)ss  was  so 
e  effected. 
Astor  de- 
3f  the  set- 
ssel  called 
The  dis- 
ed  such  a 
el  was  yet 

;he  North- 

an  armed 

o  form  an 

ia.     These 

nsiderable 

tre  Scotch- 


men and  Canadians,  and  several  of  them  had  been  in 
the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company.  Should  Mr. 
Hunt  have  failed  to  arrive  at  Astoria,  the  whole  es- 
tablishment would  be  under  the  control  of  Mr.  M'Dou- 
gal,  of  whose  fidelity  he  had  received  very  disparaging 
accounts  from  Captain  Thorn.  The  British  govern- 
ment, also,  might  deem  it  worth  while  to  send  a  force 
against  the  establishment,  having  been  urged  to  do 
so  some  time  previously  by  the  Northwest  Company. 

Under  all  these  circumstances,  Mr.  Astor  wTote  to 
Mr.  Monroe,  then  secretary  of  state,  requesting  pro- 
tection from  the  government  of  the  United  States. 
He  represented  the  importance  of  his  settlement,  in 
a  commercial  point  of  view,  and  the  shelter  it  might 
afford  to  the  American  vessels  in  those  seas.  All  he 
asked  was  that  the  American  government  would  throw 
forty  or  fifty  men  into  the  fort  at  his  establishment, 
which  would  be  sufficient  for  its  defence  until  he  could 
send  reinforcements  over  land. 

He  waited  in  vain  for  a  reply  to  this  letter,  the  gov- 
ernment, no  doubt,  being  engrossed  at  the  time  by  an 
overwhelming  crowd  of  affairs.  The  month  of  March 
arrived,  and  the  Lark  was  ordered  by  Mr.  Astor  to 
put  to  sea.  The  officer  who  was  to  command  her, 
shrunk  from  his  engagement,  and  in  the  exigency  of 
the  moment,  she  was  given  in  charge  to  Mr.  Northrop, 
the  mate.  Mr.  Nicholas  G.  Ogden,  a  gentleman  on 
whose  talents  and  integrity  the  highest  reliance  could 
be  placed,  sailed  as  supercargo.  The  Lark  put  to  sea 
in  the  beginning  of  March,  181 3. 

By  this  opportunity,  Mr.  Astor  wrote  to  Mr.  Hunt, 
as  head  of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, for  he  would  not  allow  himself  to  doubt  of 
his  welfare.  "  I  always  think  you  are  well,"  said  he, 
**  and  that  I  shall  see  you  again,  which  Heaven,  I 
hope,  will  grant." 

He  warned  him  to  be  on  his  guard  against  any  at- 


!     1 


4o8 


ASTORIA 


w 


4. 


tempts  to  surprise  the  post;  suggesting  the  prob- 
ability of  armed  hostility  on  the  part  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  expressing  his  indignation  at  the 
ungrateful  returns  made  by  that  association  for  his 
frank  and  open  conduct,  and  advantageous  overtures. 
"  Were  I  on  the  spot,"  said  he,  "  and  had  the  manage- 
ment of  affairs,  I  would  defy  them  all;  but,  as  it  is, 
everything  depends  upon  you  and  your  friends  about 
you.  Our  enterprise  is  grand,  and  deserves  success, 
and  I  hope  in  God  it  zvill  meet  it.  If  my  object  was 
merely  gain  of  money,  I  should  say,  think  whether  it 
is  best  to  save  what  we  can,  and  abandon  the  place; 
but  the  very  idea  is  like  a  dagger  to  my  heart."  This 
extract  is  sufficient  to  show  the  spirit  and  the  views 
which  actuated  Mr.  Astor  in  this  great  undertaking. 

Week  after  week  and  month  after  month  elapsed, 
without  anything  to  dispel  the  painful  incertitude  that 
hung  over  every  part  of  this  enterprise.  Though  a 
man  of  resolute  spirit,  and  not  easily  cast  down,  the 
dangers  impending  over  this  darling  scheme  of  his 
ambition,  had  a  gradual  effect  upon  the  spirits  of  Mr. 
Astor.  He  was  sitting  one  gloomy  evening  by  his 
window,  revolving  over  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin  and 
the  fate  of  her  unfortunate  crew,  and  fearing  that 
some  equally  tragical  calamity  might  have  befallen 
the  adventurers  across  the  mountains,  when  the  even- 
ing newspaper  was  brought  to  him.  The  first  para- 
graph that  caught  his  eye,  announced  the  arrival  of 
Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  at  St.  Louis,  with  intelligence 
that  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  had  effected  their 
perilous  expedition  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
This  was  a  gleam  of  sunshine  that  for  a  time  dispelled 
every  cloud,  and  he  now  looked  forward  with  san- 
guine hope  to  the  accomplishment  of  all  his  plans. 


■y: 


ASTORIA 


409 


le  prob- 
er th  west 
at  the 
for  his 
overtures, 
manage- 
as  it  is, 
ds  about 
■  success, 
)ject  was 
hether  it 
he  place; 
t."  This 
he  views 
taking. 

elapsed, 

tude  that 

'hough  a 

own,  the 

e  of  his 

s  of  Mr. 

g  by  his 

quin  and 

that 

befallen 

the  even- 

rst  para- 

rrival  of 

elligence 

ted  their 

olumbia. 

dispelled 

vith  san- 

lans. 


ring 


1 1 
1 1 


CHAPTER   LII 

The  course  of  our  narrative  now  takes  us  back  to  the 
regions  beyond  the  mountains,  to  dispose  of  the  par- 
ties that  set  out  from  Astoria,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Robert  Stuart,  and  whom  he  left  on  the  banks  of  the 
Wallah-Wallah.  Those  parties  likewise  separated 
from  each  other  shortly  after  his  departure,  proceed- 
ing to  their  respective  destinations,  but  agreeing  to 
meet  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wallah- Wallah  about  the  be- 
ginning of  June  in  the  following  year,  with  such  pel- 
tries as  they  should  have  collected  in  the  interior,  so 
as  to  convoy  each  other  through  the  dangerous  passes 
of  the  Columbia. 

Mr.  David  Stuart,  one  of  the  partners,  proceeded 
with  his  men  to  the  post  already  established  by  him 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Oakinagan ;  having  furnished  this 
with  goods  and  ammunition,  he  proceeded  three  hun- 
dred miles  up  that  river,  where  he  established  another 
post  in  a  good  trading  neighborhood. 

Mr.  Clarke,  another  partner,  conducted  his  little 
band  up  Lewis  River  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream 
coming  in  from  the  north,  to  which  the  Canadians 
gave  the  name  of  the  Pavion.  Here  he  found  a  vil- 
lage or  encampment  of  forty  huts  or  tents,  covered 
with  mats,  and  inhabited  by  A^^^  Perccs,  or  Pierced- 
nose  Indians.  '  they  are  called  by  the  traders;  but 
Chipunnish,  a.  iiey  are  called  by  themselves.  They 
are  a  hardy,  laborious,  and  somewhat  knavish  race, 
who  lead  a  precarious  life,  fishing  and  digging  roots 
during  the  summer  and  autumn,  hunting  the  deer  on 
snow-shoes  during  the  winter,  and  traversing  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  the  spring,  to  trade  for  buffalo 
skins  with  the  hunting  tribes  of  the  Missouri.  In 
these  migrations  they  are  liable  to  be  waylaid  and  at- 


4IO 


ASTORIA 


« 


.(( 


tacked  by  the  Black  feet,  and  otlier  warlike  and  pred- 
atory tribes,  and  driven  back  across  the  mountains 
with  the  loss  of  their  horses,  and  of  many  of  their 
comrades. 

A  life  of  this  unsettled  and  precarious  kind  is  apt 
to  render  man  selfish,  and  such  Mr.  Clarke  found  the 
inhabitants  of  this  village,  who  were  deficient  in  the 
usual  hospitality  of  Indians;  parting  with  everything 
with  extreme  reluctance,  and  showing  no  sensibility  to 
any  act  of  kindness.  At  the  time  of  his  arrival,  they 
w^ere  all  occupied  in  catching  and  curing  salmon.  The 
men  were  stout,  robust,  active,  and  good-looking,  and 
the  women  handsomer  than  those  of  the  tribes  nearer 
to  the  coast. 

It  was  the  plan  of  Mr.  Clarke  to  lay  up  his  boats 
here,  and  proceed  by  land  to  his  place  of  destination, 
which  was  among  the  Spokan  tribe  of  Indians,  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant.  He  accordingly  en- 
deavored to  purchase  horses  for  the  journey,  but  in 
this  he  had  to  contend  with  the  sordid  disposition  of 
these  people.  They  asked  high  prices  for  their  horses, 
and  were  so  difficult  to  deal  with,  that  Mr.  Clarke  was 
detained  seven  days  among  them,  before  he  could  pro- 
cure a  sufficient  number.  During  that  time  he  was  an- 
noyed by  repeated  pilferings,  for  which  he  could  get 
no  redress.  The  chief  promised  to  recover  the  stolen 
articles ;  but  failed  to  do  so,  alleging  that  the  thieves 
belonged  to  a  distant  tribe,  and  had  made  off  with  their 
booty.  With  this  excuse  Mr.  Clarke  was  fain  to  con- 
tent himself,  though  he  laid  up  in  his  heart  a  bitter 
grudge  against  the  whole  Pierced-nose  race  wdiich  it 
will  be  found  he  took  occasion  subsequently  to  gratify 
in  a  signal  manner. 

Having  made  arrangements  for  his  departure,  Mr. 
Clarke  laid  up  his  barge  and  canoes  in  a  sheltered 
place,  on  the  banks  of  a  small  bay,  overgrown  with 
shrubs  and  willows,  confiding  them  to  the  care  of  the 


ASTORIA 


411 


xl  precl- 
)untains 
ji  their 

d  is  apt 
)und  the 
t  in  the 
erything 
ibiUty  to 
val,  they 
311.    The 
:ing,  and 
es  nearer 

his  boats 
stination, 
ns,  about 
fingly  en- 
but  in 
)sition  of 
ir  iiorses, 
larke  was 
ould  pro- 
e  was  an- 
could  get 
he  stolen 
.e  thieves 
ith  their 
n  to  con- 
It  a  bitter 
which  it 
o  gratify 

iture,  Mr. 
sheltered 
)wn  with 
ire  of  the 


Nez  Perce  chief,  who,  on  being  promised  an  ample 
compensation,  engaged  to  have  a  guardian  eye  upon 
them;  then  mounting  his  steed,  and  putting  himself 
at  the  head  of  his  little  caravan,  he  shook  the  dust  off 
his  feet  as  he  turned  his  back  upon  this  village  of 
rogues  and  hard  dealers.  We  shall  not  follow  him 
minutely  in  his  journey;  which  lay  at  times  over  steep 
and  rocky  hills,  and  among  crags  and  precipices ;  at 
other  times  over  vast  naked  and  sunburnt  plains, 
abounding  with  rattlesnakes,  in  traversing  which,  both 
men  and  horses  suffered  intolerably  from  heat  and 
thirst.  The  place  on  which  he  fixed  for  a  trading  post, 
was  a  fine  point  of  land,  at  the  junction  of  the  Pointed 
Heart  and  Spokan  Rivers.  His  establishment  was 
intended  to  compete  with  a  trading  post  of  the  North- 
west Company,  situated  at  no  great  distance,  and  to 
rival  it  in  the  trade  with  the  Spokan  Indians,  as  well 
as  with  the  Cootonais  and  Flatheads.  In  this  neigh- 
borhood we  shall  leave  him  for  the  present. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie,  who  conducted  the  third  party  from 
the  Wallah-Wallah,  navigated  for  several  days  up  the 
south  branch  of  the  Columbia,  named  the  Camoenum 
by  the  natives,  but  commonly  called  Lewis  River,  in 
honor  of  the  first  explorer.  Wandering  bands  of  va- 
rious tribes  were  seen  along  this  river,  travelling  in 
various  directions;  for  the  Indians  generally  are  rest- 
less, roving  beings,  continually  intent  on  enterprises 
of  war,  traffic,  and  hunting.  Some  of  these  people 
were  driving  large  gangs  of  horses,  as  if  to  a  distant 
market.  Having  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sha- 
haptan,  he  ascended  some  distance  up  that  river,  and 
established  his  trading  post  upon  its  banks.  This  ap- 
peared to  be  a  great  thoroughfare  for  the  tribes  from 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  in  their 
expeditions  to  make  war  upon  the  tribes  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains ;  to  hunt  buffalo  on  the  plains  beyond,  or  to 
traffic  for  roots  and  buffalo  robes.     It  was  the  season 


!■    ! 


412 


ASTORIA 


mm .' 


of  migration,  and  the  Indians  from  various  distant 
parts  were  passing  and  repassing  in  great  numbers. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  now  detached  a  small  band,  under 
the  conduct  of  Mr.  John  Reed,  to  visit  the  caches 
made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Caldron  Linn,  and  to 
bring  the  contents  to  his  post ;  as  he  de^^nded,  in 
some  measure,  on  them  for  his  supplies  of  goods  and 
ammunition.  They  had  not  been  gone  a  week,  when 
two  Indians  arrived  of  the  Pallatapalla  tribe,  who  live 
upon  a  river  of  the  same  name.  These  communicated 
the  unwelcome  intelligence  that  the  caches  had  been 
robbed.  They  said  that  some  of  their  tribe  had,  ni 
the  course  of  the  preceding  spring,  been  across  the 
mountains,  which  separated  them  from  Snake  River, 
and  had  traded  horses  with  the  Snakes  in  exchange 
for  blankets,  robes,  and  goods  of  various  descriptions. 
These  articles  the  Snakes  had  procured  from  caches 
to  which  they  were  guided  by  some  white  men  who 
resided  among  them,  and  who  afterwards  accom- 
panied them  across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  in- 
telligence was  extremely  perplexing  to  Mr.  M'Kenzie, 
but  the  truth  of  part  of  it  was  confirmed  by  the  two 
Indians,  who  brought  them  an  English  saddle  and 
bridle,  which  was  recognized  as  having  belonged  to 
Mr.  Crooks.  The  perfidy  of  the  wdiite  men  who  re- 
vealed the  secret  of  the  caches,  was,  however,  per- 
fectly inexplicable.  We  shall  presently  account  for 
it  in  narrating  the  expedition  of  Mr.  Reed. 

That  w^orthy  Hibernian  proceeded  on  his  mission 
with  his  usual  alacrity.  His  forlorn  travels  of  the 
preceding  winter  had  made  him  acquainted  with  the 
topography  of  the  country,  and  he  reached  Snake 
River  without  any  material  difficulty.  Here,  in  an  en- 
campment of  the  natives,  he  met  with  six  white  men, 
wanderers  from  the  main  expedition  of  Mr.  Hunt, 
who,  after  having  had  their  respective  shares  of  ad- 
ventures and  mishaps,  had  fortunately  come  together 


distant 

ibers. 

,  under 

I  caches 
and   to 

ided,   in 

.ods  and 

:k,  when 

who  Uve 

lunicated 

lad  been 

;  had,  ni 

:ross  the 

<e  River, 

exchange 

,criptions. 

,m  caches 

men  who 
accom- 
This  in- 

VL'Kenzie, 

^  the  two 
ddle  and 
onged  to 
1  who  re- 
ever,  per- 
count  for 

Is  mission 
lis  of  the 
with  the 
ed    Snake 
in  an  en- 
hite  men, 
S/[\\  Hunt, 
res  of  ad- 
ic  together 


ASTORIA 


413 


I 


at  this  place.  Three  of  these  men  were  Turcotte,  La 
Chapelle,  and  Francis  Landry;  the  three  Canadian 
voyageurs  who,  it  may  be  recollected,  had  left  Mr. 
Crooks  in  T^ebruary,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Snake 
River,  being  dismayed  by  the  increasing  hardships 
of  the  journey,  and  fearful  of  perisliing  of  hunger. 
They  had  returned  to  a  Snake  encampment,  wher-  'iiey 
passed  the  residue  of  the  winter. 

Early  in  the  spring,  being  utterly  destitute,  and  in 
great  extremity,  and  having  worn  out  the  hospitality 
of  the  Snakes,  they  determined  to  avail  themselves  of 
the  buried  treasures  within  their  knowledge.  They 
accordingly  informed  the  Snake  chieftains  that  they 
knew  where  a  great  c[uantity  of  goods  had  been  left 
in  caches,  enough  to  enrich  the  whole  tribe;  and  of- 
fered to  conduct  them  to  the  place,  on  condition  of 
being  rewarded  with  horses  and  provisions.  The  chief- 
tains pledged  their  faith  and  honor  as  great  men  and 
Snakes,  and  the  three  Canadians  conducted  them  to 
the  place  of  deposit  at  the  Caldron  Linn.  This  is  the 
way  that  the  savages  got  knowledge  of  the  caches,  and 
not  by  following  the  tracks  of  wolv'"^  as  Mr.  Stuart 
had  supposed.  Never  did  money  diggers  turn  up  a 
miser's  hoard  with  more  eager  delight,  than  did  the 
savages  lay  open  the  treasures  of  the  caches.  Blankets 
and  robes,  brass  trinkets  and  blue  beads  w'ere  drawn 
forth  with  chuckling  exultation,  and  long  strips  of 
scarlet  cloth  produced  yells  of  ecstasy. 

The  rifling  of  the  caches  effected  a  change  in  the 
fortunes  and  deportment  of  the  whole  party.  The 
Snakes  were  better  clad  and  equipped  than  ever  were 
Snakes  before,  and  the  three  Canadians,  suddenly  find- 
ing themselves  w-ith  horse  to  ride  and  weaix)n  to  wear, 
were,  like  beggars  on  horseback,  ready  to  ride  on  any 
wild  scamper.  An  opportunity  soon  presented.  The 
Snakes  determined  on  a  hunting  match  on  the  buffalo 
prairies,  to  lay  in  a  supply  of  beef,  that  they  might 


it 


T 


1 


IW 

3 


;iiii^  ■:?■ 


il  A  '•• 


I'l 


414 


ASTORIA 


live  in  plenty,  as  became  men  of  their  improved 
condition.  The  three  newly  mounted  cavahers  must 
fain  accompany  them.  Tliey  all  traversed  tlie  Rc^ky 
Mountains  in  safety,  descended  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Missouri,  and  made  great  havoc  among  the 
buffaloes. 

Their  hunting  camp  was  full  of  meat ;  tliey  were 
gorging  themselves,  like  true  Indians,  with  present 
plenty,  and  drying  and  jerking  great  (|uantities  for  a 
winter's  supply.  In  the  midst  of  their  revelry  and 
good  cheer,  the  camp  was  surprised  by  die  Blackfeet. 
Several  of  the  Snakes  were  slain  on  the  spot;  the 
residue,  with  their  three  Canadian  allies,  fled  to  the 
mountains,  stripped  of  horses,  buffalo  meat,  every- 
thing; and  made  their  way  back  to  the  old  encamp- 
ment on  Snake  River,  poorer  than  ever,  but  esteeming 
themselves  fortunate  in  having  escaped  with  their  lives. 
They  had  not  been  long  there  when  the  Canadians  were 
cheered  by  the  sight  of  a  companion  in  misfortune, 
Dubreuil,  the  poor  voyageur  who  had  left  Mr.  Crooks 
in  March,  being  too  much  exhausted  to  keep  on  with 
him.  Not  long  afterwards,  three  other  straggling 
members  of  the  main  expedition  made  their  appear- 
ance. These  were  Carson,  St.  Michael,  and  Pierre 
Delaunay,  three  of  the  trappers,  who,  in  company  with 
Pierre  Detaye,  had  been  left  among  the  mountains  by 
Mr.  Hunt,  to  trap  l:)eaver,  in  the  preceding  month  of 
September.  They  had  departed  from  the  main  body 
well  armed  and  provided,  with  horses  to  ride,  and 
horses  to  carry  the  peltries  they  were  to  collect.  They 
came  wandering  into  the  Snake  camp  as  ragged  and 
destitute  as  their  predecessors.  It  appears  that  they 
had  finished  their  trapping,  and  were  making  their  way 
in  the  spring  to  the  Missouri,  when  they  were  met  and 
attacked  by  a  powerful  band  of  the  all-pervading 
Crows.  They  made  a  desperate  resistance,  and  killed 
seven  of  the  savages,  but  were  overpowered  by  num- 


ASTORIA 


415 


iproved 
s  must 

Rocky 

waters 
mg  the 

zy  were 
present 
2S  for  a 
;lry   and 
lackfcet. 
)ot;    the 
d  to  the 
[,   every- 
encanip- 
steeming 
leir  Uves. 
ians  were 
s  fortune, 
-.  Crooks 
on  with 
raggUng 
appear- 
id   Pierre 
)any  with 
ntains  by 
month  of 
lain  body 
ride,  and 
ct.    They 
gged  and 
that  they 
their  way 
e  met  and 
pervading 
and  killed 
I  by  num- 


bers. Pierre  Detayc  was  slain,  the  rest  were  robl)ed 
of  horses  and  effects,  and  obliged  to  turn  back,  when 
they  fell  in  with  their  old  companions,  as  already 
mentioned. 

We  should  observe,  that  at  the  heels  of  Pierre  De- 
launay  came  draggling  an  Indian  wife,  whom  he  had 
picked  up  in  his  wanderings ;  having  grown  weary  of 
celibacy  among  the  savages. 

The  whole  seven  of  this  forlorn  fraternity  of  ad 
venturers,  thus  accidentally  congregated  on  the  banks 
of  Snake  River,  were  making  arrangements  (  "ice  more 
to  cross  the  mountains,  when  some  Indii'i)  scntits 
brought  word  of  the  approach  of  the  little  band  lieaded 
by  John  Reed. 

The  latter,  having  heard  the  several  stories  uf  thcjse 
wanderers,  took  them  all  into  his  party  and  set  oul.  for 
the  Caldron  Linn,  to  clear  out  two  or  ihrec  ni  the 
caches  which  had  not  been  revealed  to  the  lr.<hans. 

At  that  place  he  met  with  Robinson,  the  Kentucky 
veteran,  who,  with  his  two  comrades,  Rc-UiC"  and 
Hoback,  had  remained  there  when  Mr.  Stuart  wcm 
on.  This  adventurous  trio  had  been  trapping  lii^^her 
up  the  river,  but  Robinson  had  come  down  in  a  canoe, 
to  await  the  expected  arrival  of  the  party,  and  oljlain 
horses  and  equipments.  He  told  Reed  the  story  of  the 
robbery  of  his  party  by  the  Arapahays,  but  it  differf^d, 
in  some  particulars,  from  the  account  given  by  hini 
to  Mr.  Stuart.  In  that,  he  had  represented  Cass  as 
having  shamefully  deserted  his  companions  in  \\  eir 
extremity,  carrying  off  with  him  a  horse-  in  the  one 
now  given,  he  spoke  of  him  as  havinjB"  been  killed  in 
the  affray  with  the  Arapahays.  Thi;>  discrepancy,  of 
which,  of  course.  Reed  could  have  had  no  knowledge 
at  the  time,  concurred  Mith  other  circumstances,  to 
occasion  afterwards  some  mysterious  speculations  and 
dark  surmises  as  to  the  real  fate  of  Cass ;  but  as  no 
substantial  grounds  were  ever  adduced  for  them,  we 


i' 


I 


■n 


m 


if'-'!':, 


I?'.- 


*"   % 


lb''. 


.  > 


416 


ASTORIA 


forbear  to  throw  any  deeper  shades  into  this  story  of 
sufferings  in  the  wilderness. 

Mr.  Reed,  having  gathered  tlie  remainder  of  the 
goods  from  the  caches,  put  himself  at  the  head  of  his 
party,  now  augmented  by  the  seven  men  thus  casually 
picked  up,  and  the  squaw  of  Pierre  Delaunay,  and 
made  his  way  successfully  to  M'Kenzie's  Post,  on  the 
waters  of  the  Shahaptan. 


CHAPTER  LIII 

After  the  departure  of  the  different  detachments,  or 
bri^^adcs,  as  they  are  called  by  the  fur  traders,  the 
Beaver  prepared  for  her  voyage  along  the  coast,  and 
her  visit  to  the  Russian  establishment,  at  New  Arch- 
angel, where  she  was  to  carry  supplies.  It  had  been 
determined  in  the  council  of  partners  at  Astoria,  that 
Mr.  Hunt  should  embark  in  this  vessel,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  acquainting  himself  with  the  coasting  trade, 
and  of  making  arrangements  with  the  commander  of 
the  Russian  post,  and  that  he  should  be  relanded  in 
October,  at  Astoria,  by  the  Beaver,  on  her  way  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands  and  Canton. 

The  Beaver  put  to  sea  in  the  month  of  August.  Pier 
departure,  and  that  of  tlie  various  brigades,  left  the 
fortress  of  Astoria  but  slightly  garrisoned.  This  was 
soon  perceived  by  some  of  the  Indian  tribes,  and  the 
consequence  was,  increased  insolence  of  deportment, 
and  a  disposition  to  hostility.  It  was  now  the  fishing 
season,  when  the  tribes  from  the  northern  coast  drew 
into  the  neighborhood  of  the  Columbia.  These  were 
warlike  and  perfidious  in  their  dispositions ;  and  noted 
for  their  attempts  to  surprise  trading  ships.  Among 
them  were  numbers  of  the  Neweetees,  the  ferocious 
tribe  that  massacred  the  crew  of  the  Tonquin. 

Great    precautions,    therefore,    were    taken    at    the 


.1 


ASTORIA 


417 


orv 


of 


of  the 
i  of  his 
:asually 
\y,  and 
.  on  the 


lents,  or 
lers,  the 
5ast,  and 
;w  Arch- 
had  heen 
nria,  that 
1  the  pnr 


ng 


trade, 
lander  of 
anded  hi 
ay  to  the 

ust.    Her 
left  the 
This  was 
and  the 
portment, 
le  fishing 
oast  drew 
lese  were 
and  noted 
Among 
ferocious 


■■ 


m 


at   the 


factory,  to  guard  against  surprise  while  these  danger- 
ous intruders  were  in  the  vicinity.  Galleries  were  con- 
structed inside  of  the  palisades ;  the  bastions  were 
heightened,  and  sentinels  were  ix)ste{l  day  and  night. 
Fortunately,  the  Chinooks  and  other  tribes  resident  in 
the  vicinity  manifested  the  most  pacific  disposition. 
Old  Comcomly,  who  held  sway  over  them,  was  a 
shrewd  calculator.  He  was  aware  of  the  advantages 
of  having  the  whites  as  neighbors  and  allies,  and  of  the 
consecfuence  derived  to  himself  and  his  people  from 
acting  as  intermediate  traders  between  them  and  the 
distant  tribes.  He  had,  therefore,  by  this  time,  become 
a  firm  friend  of  the  Astorians,  and  formed  a  kind  of 
barrier  between  them  and  the  hostile  intruders  from 
the  north. 

The  summer  of  181 2  passed  away  without  any  of 
the  hostilities  that  had  been  apprehended ;  the  Newee- 
tees,  and  other  dangerous  visitors  to  the  neighborhood, 
finished  their  fishing  and  returned  home,  and  the  in- 
mates of  the  factory  once  more  felt  secure  from  attack. 

It  now  became  necessary  to  guard  against  other 
evils.  The  season  of  scarcity  arrived,  which  com- 
mences in  October,  and  lasts  until  the  end  of  January. 
To  provide  for  the  support  of  the  garrison,  the  shallop 
was  employed  to  forage  about  the  shores  of  the  river. 
A  number  of  the  men,  also,  under  the  command  of 
some  of  the  clerks,  were  sent  to  quarter  themselves  on 
the  banks  of  the  Wollamut  (the  Multnomah  of  Lewis 
and  Clarke),  a  fine  river  which  disembogues  itself  into 
the  Columbia,  about  sixty  miles  above  Astoria.  The 
country  bordering  on  the  river  is  finely  diversified  with 
prairies  and  hills,  and  forests  of  oak,  ash,  maple  and 
cedar.  It  abounded,  at  that  time,  with  elk  and  deer, 
and  the  streams  were  well  stocked  with  beaver.  Here 
the  party,  after  supplying  their  own  wants,  were  en- 
abled to  pack  up  quantities  of  dried  meat,  and  send  it 

by  canoes  to  Astoria. 

27 


p    \ 


418 


ASTORIA 


'."Si 


fite 


i^;«i 


|i-fl!»*f 


>  i» : 


Hl^ii 


f 


The  month  of  October  elapsed  without  the  return 
of  the  Beaver.  November,  December,  January,  passed 
away,  and  still  nothing  was  seen  or  heard  of  her. 
Gloomy  apprehensions  now  began  to  be  entertained : 
she  might  have  been  wrecked  in  the  course  of  her 
coasting  voyage,  or  surprised,  like  the  Tonquin,  by 
some  of  the  treacherous  tribes  of  the  north. 

No  one  indulged  more  in  these  apprehensions  than 
M'Dougal,  who  had  now  the  charge  of  the  establish- 
ment. He  no  longer  evinced  the  bustling  confidence 
and  buoyancy  which  once  characterized  hiin.  Com- 
mand seemed  to  have  lost  its  charms  for  him,  or  rather, 
he  gave  way  to  the  most  abject  despondency,  decrying 
the  whole  enterprise,  magnifying  every  untoward  cir- 
cumstance, and  foreboding  nothing  but  evil. 

While  in  this  moody  state,  he  was  surprised,  on  the 
16th  of  January,  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  M'Ken- 
zie,  wayworn  and  weather-beaten  by  a  long  wintry 
journey  from  his  post  on  the  Shahaptan,  and  with  a 
face  the  very  frontispiece  for  a  volume  of  misfortune. 
M'Kenzie  had  been  heartily  disgusted  and  disappointed 
at  his  post.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  the  Tushepaws,  a 
powerful  and  warlike  nation,  divided  into  many  tribes, 
under  dififerent  chiefs,  who  possessed  innumerable 
horses,  but,  not  having  turned  their  attention  to 
beaver  trapping,  had  no  furs  to  offer.  According  to 
M'Kenzie,  they  were  but  a  "  rascally  tribe " ;  from 
which  VvC  may  infer  that  they  were  prone  to  consult 
their  own  interests,  more  than  comported  with  the  in- 
terests of  a  greedy  Indian  trader. 

Game  being  scarce,  he  was  obliged  to  rely,  for  the 
most  part,  on  horse  flesh  for  subsistence,  and  the  In- 
dians discovering  his  necessities,  adopted  a  policy  usual 
in  civilized  trade,  and  raised  the  price  of  horses  to  an 
exorbitant  rate,  knowing  that  he  and  his  men  must  eat 
or  die.  In  this  way,  the  goods  he  had  brought  to 
trade  for  beaver  skins  were  likely  to  be  bartered  for 


ASTORIA 


i 


419 


return 
passed 
){   her. 
tained : 
of  her 
urn,  by 

ns  than 
stabhsh- 
nfidence 
Coni- 
,r  rather, 
decrying 
,vard  cir- 

:d,  on  the 
{  M'Ken- 
ig  wintry 
id  Nvith  a 
misfortune, 
.appointed 
Ihepaws,  a 
tny  tribes, 
[numerable 
ention    to 
;ording  to 
,e  " ;  from 
to  consult 
ith  the  in- 
ly, for  the 
Ind  the  In- 
loUcy  usual 
jrses  to  an 
^n  must  eat 
fhrought  to 
lartcred  for 


horse  flesh,  and  all  the  proceeds  devoured  upon  the 
spot. 

He  had  dispatched  trappers  in  various  directions, 
but  the  country  around  did  not  offer  nior'.'  neaver  than 
his  own  station.  In  this  emergency  he  boT  m  to  think 
of  abandoning  his  unprofitable  post,  sending  his  goods 
to  the  posts  of  Clarke  and  L».;"id  Stuart,  who  could 
make  a  better  use  of  them,  as  they  were  in  a  g(X)d 
beaver  country,  and  returning  with  his  party  to  As- 
toria, to  seek  some  better  destinati(^n.  WiHi  this  view 
he  repaired  to  the  post  of  Air.  Clarke,  to  hold  a  con- 
sultation. While  the  two  partners  were  in  conference 
in  Mr.  Clarke's  wigwam,  an  unexpected  visitor  came 
bustling  in  upon  them. 

This  was  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish,  a  partner  of 
the  Northwest  Com.pany,  wlio  had  charge  of  the  rival 
trading  posts  established  in  that  neighl)orhood.  Mr. 
M'Tavish  was  the  delighted  messenger  of  bad  news. 
He  had  been  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  where  he  received  an 
express  from  Canada,  containing  the  declaration  of 
war,  and  President  Madison's  proclamation,  which  he 
handed  with  the  most  officious  complaisance  to  Messrs. 
Clarke  and  M'Kenzie.  He  moreover  told  tiiem  that 
he  had  received  a  fresh  supply  of  goods  from  ^he 
Nortliwest  posts  on  the  other  side  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  was  prepared  for  vigorous  opposition 
to  the  establishment  of  the  American  Company.  He 
capped  the  climax  of  this  obliging,  but  belligerent  in- 
telligence, by  informing  them  that  the  armed  ship, 
Isaac  Todd,  was  to  be  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
abont  the  beginning  of  March,  to  get  possession  of  the 
trade  of  the  river,  and  that  he  was  ordered  to  join 
her  there  at  that  time. 

The  receipt  of  this  news  determined  M'Kenzie.  He 
immediately  returned  to  the  Shahaptan,  broke  up  his 
estal)lishment,  deposited  his  goods  in  cache,  and  has- 
tened with  all  his  people  to  Astoria. 


ii 


f    V 


4i< 


■f -i  ■ 

fit*  *»*• 


I 

i 


420 


ASTORIA 


The  intelligence  thus  brought,  completed  the  dismay 
of  Al'Dougal,  and  seemed  to  produce  a  complete  con- 
fusion of  mind.  He  held  a  council  of  war  with  M'Ken- 
zie,  at  which  some  of  the  clerks  were  present,  but  of 
course  had  no  votes.  They  gave  up  all  hope  of  main- 
taining their  post  at  Astoria.  The  Beaver  had  prob- 
ably been  lost ;  they  could  receive  no  aid  from  the 
United  States,  as  all  the  ports  would  be  blockaded. 
From  England  nothing  could  be  expected  but  hostility. 
It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  abandon  the  establis*  - 
ment  in  the  course  of  the  following  spring,  and  return 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

In  pursuance  of  this  resolution,  they  suspended  all 
trade  with  the  natives,  except  for  provisions,  having 
already  more  peltries  than  they  could  carry  away,  and 
having  need  of  all  the  goods  for  the  clothing  and 
subsistence  of  their  people,  during  the  remainder  of 
their  sojourn,  and  on  their  journey  across  the  moun- 
tains. This  intention  of  abandoning  Astoria  was, 
however,  kept  secret  from  the  men,  lest  they  should 
at  once  give  up  all  labor,  and  become  restless  and 
insubordinate. 

In  the  meantime,  M'Kenzie  set  off  for  his  post  at  the 
Shahaptan,  to  get  his  goods  from  the  caches,  and  buy 
horses  and  provisions  with  them  for  the  caravan  across 
the  mountains.  He  was  charged  with  dispatches  from 
M'Dougal  to  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke,  apprising 
them  of  the  intended  migration,  that  they  might  make 
timely  preparations. 

M'Kenzie  was  accompanied  by  two  of  the  clerks, 
Mr.  John  Reed,  the  Irishman,  and  Mr.  Alfred  Seton, 
of  New  York.  They  embarked  in  two  canoes,  manned 
by  seventeen  men,  and  ascended  the  river  without  any 
incident  of  importance,  until  they  arrived  in  the  event- 
ful neighborhood  of  the  rapids.  They  made  the  por- 
tage of  the  narrows  and  the  falls  early  in  the  after- 
noon, and,  having  partaken  of  a  scanty  meal,  had 
now  a  long  evening  on  their  hands. 


ASTORIA 


421 


lismay 
te  con- 
A' Ken- 
but  of 
I  main- 
i  prob- 
om  the 
ickadecl 
lostility- 
^tablis' 
J  return 

nded  all 
,  having 
,vay,  and 
ling   and 
tinder  of 
le  moun- 
>ria    was, 
should 
ess  and 

ost  at  the 
and  buy 

an  across 
les  from 

apprising 

Pfht  make 

he  clerks, 
ed  Seton, 

manned 
thout  any 
the  event- 

the  por- 
the  after- 
Ineal,  had 


On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  lay  the  village  of 
Wish-ram,  of  free])ooting  renown.  Here  lived  the 
savages  who  had  robl)ed  and  maltreated  Reed,  when 
bearing  his  tin  box  of  dispatches.  It  was  known  that 
the  rille  of  which  he  was  despoiled  was  retained  as  a 
trophy  at  the  village.  M'Kenzie  offered  to  cross  the 
river,  and  demand  the  rifle,  if  any  one  would  accom- 
pany him.  It  was  a  hare-brained  project,  for  these 
villages  were  noted  for  the  ruffian  character  of  tlieir 
inhabitants ;  yet  two  volunteers  promptly  stepped  for- 
ward;  Alfred  Seton,  the  clerk,  and  Joe  de  la  Pierre, 
the  cook.  The  trio  soon  reached  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  On  landing,  they  freshly  primed  their  rifles 
and  pistols.  A  path  winding  for  about  a  hundred 
yards  among  rocks  and  crags,  led  to  the  village.  No 
notice  seemed  to  be  taken  of  their  approach.  Not  a 
solitary  being,  man,  woman,  or  child,  greeted  them. 
The  very  dogs,  those  noisy  pests  of  an  Indian  town, 
kept  silence.  On  entering  the  village,  a  boy  made  his 
appearance,  and  ^x^inted  to  a  house  of  larger  dimensions 
than  the  rest.  They  had  to  stoop  to  enter  it ;  as  soon 
as  they  had  passed  the  threshold,  the  narrow  passage 
behind  them  was  filled  up  by  a  sudden  rush  of  In- 
dians, who  had  before  kept  out  of  sight. 

M'Kenzie  and  his  companions  found  themselves  in 
a  rude  chamber  of  a1)out  twenty-five  feet  long,  and 
twenty  wide.  A  bright  fire  was  blazing  at  one  end, 
near  which  sat  the  chief,  about  sixty  years  old.  A 
large  number  of  Indians,  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes, 
were  squatted  in  rows,  three  deep,  forming  a  semi- 
circle round  three  sides  of  the  room.  A  single  glance 
around  sufficed  to  show  them  the  grim  and  dangerous 
assembly  into  which  they  had  intruded,  and  that  all 
retreat  was  cut  off  by  the  mass  which  blocked  up  the 
entrance. 

The  chief  pointed  to  the  vacant  side  of  the  room 
opposite  to  the  door,  and  motioned  for  them  to  take 


'I 


f 


422 


ASTORIA 


rt*,'  ■  i 


»:■? 


their  seats.  They  compHed.  A  dead  pause  ensued. 
The  grim  warriors  around  sat  like  statues ;  each 
muffled  in  his  robe,  with  liis  fierce  eyes  bent  on  the 
intruders.  The  latter  felt  they  were  in  a  perilous 
predicament. 

"  Keep  your  eyes  on  the  chief  while  I  am  addressinj[*- 
him,"  said  M'Kenzie  to  his  coni]xuiions.  "  Should  he 
give  any  sign  to  his  band,  shoot  him,  and  make  for  the 
door." 

M'Kenzie  advanced,  and  offered  the  pipe  of  peace 
to  the  chief,  but  it  was  refused.  Tie  then  made  a 
regular  speech,  explaining  the  o1)ject  of  their  visit, 
and  proposing  to  give  in  exchange  for  the  rifle  two 
blankets,  an  axe,  some  beads  and  tobacco. 

When  he  had  done,  the  chief  rose,  began  to  address 
him  in  a  low  voice,  but  soon  became  loud  and  violent, 
and  ended  by  working  himself  up  into  a  furious  pas- 
sion. He  upbraided  the  white  men  for  their  sordid 
conduct  in  passing  and  repassing  through  their  neigh- 
borhood, without  giving  them  a  blanket  or  any  other 
article  of  goods,  merely  because  they  had  no  furs  to 
barter  in  exchange,  and  he  alluded,  with  menaces  of 
vengeance,  to  the  death  of  the  Indian  killed  by  the 
whites  in  the  skirmish  at  the  falls. 

Matters  were  verging  to  a  crisis.  It  was  evident  the 
surrounding  savages  were  only  waiting  a  signal  from 
the  chief  to  spring  upon  their  prey.  M'Kenzie  and  his 
companions  had  gradually  risen  on  their  feet  during 
the  speech,  and  had  brought  their  rifles  to  a  horizontal 
position,  the  barrels  resting  in  their  left  hands;  the 
mu  .  ;le  of  M'Kenzie's  piece  was  within  three  feet  of 
the  speaker's  heart.  They  cocked  their  rifles;  the  click 
of  the  locks  for  a  moment  suffused  the  dark  cheek  of 
the  savage,  and  there  was  a  pause.  They  coolly,  but 
promptly  advanced  to  the  door;  the  Indians  fell 
back  in  awe,  and  suft'ered  them  to  pass.  The  sun  was 
just  setting,  as  they  emerged  from  this  dangerous  den. 


1 


ASTORIA 


423 


f|,i 
I 


ensued. 
;    each 
on  the 
perilous 

dressing 
lould  he 
-  for  the 

of  peace 

made  a 

eir   visit, 

rifle  two 

o  address 
1(1  violent, 
rious  pas- 

ir  sordid 
eir  neigh - 
any  other 
no  furs  to 

enaces  of 
ed  hy  the 

evident  the 
[gnal  from 
tie  and  his 
iet  during 
I  horizontal 
ands;    the 
lee  feet  of 
;  the  click 
Ik  cheek  of 
IcooUy,  lit^t 
idians    fell 
lie  sun  was 
Irerous  den. 


They  took  the  precaution  to  keep  along  the  tops  of  the 
rocks  as  much  as  possihle  on  their  way  back  to  the 
canoe,  and  reached  their  camp  in  safety,  congratulat- 
ing themselves  on  their  escape,  and  feeling  no  desire 
to  make  a  second  visit  to  the  grim  warriors  of 
Wish-ram. 

M'Kenzie  and  his  party  resumed  their  journey  the 
next  morning.  At  some  distance  above  the  falls  of 
the  Columbia,  they  observed  two  bark  canoes,  filled 
with  white  men,  coming  down  the  river,  to  the  full 
chant  of  a  set  of  Canadian  voyageurs.  A  parley  en- 
sued. It  was  a  detachment  of  Northwesters,  under 
the  command  of  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish,  bound, 
full  of  song  and  spirit,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Todd. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Tavish  came  to  a  halt,  and 
landing,  encamped  together  for  the  night.  The  voy- 
ageurs of  either  party  hailed  each  other  as  brothers, 
and  okl  "comrades,"  and  they  mingled  together  as  if 
united  Iw  one  common  interest,  instead  of  belonging 
to  rival  companies,  and  trading  under  hostile  flags. 

In  the  morning  they  proceeded  on  their  different 
ways,  in  style  corresponding  to  their  different  for- 
tunes: the  one  toiling  painfully  against  the  stream, 
the  other  sweeping  down  gayly  with  the  current. 

M'Kenzie  arrived  safely  at  his  deserted  post  on  the 
Shahaptan.  but  found,  to  his  chagrin,  that  his  caches 
had  been  discovered  and  rifled  by  the  Indians.  Here 
was  a  dilemma,  for  on  the  stolen  goods  he  had  de- 
pended to  purchase  horses  of  the  Indians.  He  sent 
out  men  in  all  directions  to  endeavor  to  discover  the 
thieves,  and  dispatched  Mr.  Reed  to  the  posts  of 
Messrs.  Clarke  and  David  Stuart,  with  the  letters  of 
Mr.  M'Dougal. 

The  resolution  announced  in  these  letters,  to  break 
up  and  depart  from  Astoria,  was  condemned  by  both 
Clarke  and  Stuart.     These  two  gentlemen  had  been 


^. 


<m 


I 


424 


ASTORIA 


very  successful  at  their  posts,  and  considered  it  rash 
and  pusillanimous  to  abandon,  on  the  first  difficulty, 
an  enterprise  of  such  great  cost  and  ample  promise. 
They  made  no  arrangements,  therefore,  for  leaving  the 
country,  but  acted  with  a  view  to  the  maintenance  of 
their  new  and  prosperous  establishments. 

The  regular  time  approached,  when  the  partners  of 
the  interior  posts  were  to  rendezvous  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Wallah-Wallah,  on  their  way  to  Astoria,  with  the 
peltries  they  had  collected.  Mr.  Clarke  accordingly 
packed  all  his  furs  on  twenty-eight  horses,  and,  leaving 
a  clerk  and  four  men  to  take  charge  of  the  post,  de- 
parted on  the  25th  of  May  with  the  residue  of  his 
force. 

On  the  30th,  he  arrived  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Pavion  and  Lewis  Rivers,  where  he  had  left  his  barge 
and  canoes,  in  the  guardianship  of  the  old  Pierced- 
nosed  chieftain.  That  dignitary  had  acquitted  himself 
more  faithfully  of  his  charge  than  Mr.  Clarke  had  ex- 
pected, and  the  canoes  were  found  in  very  tolerable 
order.  Some  repairs  were  necessary,  and,  while  they 
were  making,  the  party  encamped  close  by  the  village. 
Plaving  had  repeated  and  vexatious  proofs  of  the 
pilfering  propensities  of  this  tribe  during  his  former 
visit,  Mr.  Clarke  ordered  that  a  wary  eye  should  be 
kept  upon  them. 

He  was  a  tall,  good-looking  man,  and  somewhat 
given  to  pomp  and  circumstance,  which  made  him  an 
object  of  note  in  the  eyes  of  the  wondering  savages. 
He  was  stately,  too,  in  his  appointments,  and  had  a 
silver  goblet  or  drinking  cup,  out  of  which  he  would 
drink  with  a  magnificent  air,  and  then  lock  it  up  in  a 
large  garde  vin,  which  accompanied  him  in  his  travels, 
and  stood  in  his  tent.  This  goblet  had  originally  been 
sent  as  a  present  from  Mr.  Astor  to  Mr.  M'Kay,  the 
partner  who  had  unfortunately  been  blown  up  in  the 
Tonquin.    As  it  reached  Astoria  after  the  departure  of 


ASTORIA 


425 


it  rash 
ficulty, 
-omise. 
ing  the 
mce  of 

ners  of 
DUth  of 
nth  the 
►rdingly 
leaving 
ost,  de- 
;  of  his 

;  of  the 
lis  barge 
Pierced- 
i  himself 
had  ex- 
tolerable 
hile  tliey 
village, 
of   the 
former 
-lould  be 

)mewhat 

him  an 

savages. 

id  had  a 

lie  would 

(t  up  in  a 

Is  travels, 

[ally  been 

jKay,  the 

Itp  in  the 

larture  of 


that  gentleman,  it  had  remained  in  the  possession  of 
Air.  Clarke. 

A  silver  goblet  was  too  glittering  a  prize  not  to 
catch  the  eye  of  a  Pierced-nose.  It  was  like  the  shin- 
ing tin  case  of  John  Reed.  Such  a  wonder  had  never 
been  seen  in  the  land  before.  The  Indians  talked 
about  it  to  one  another.  They  marked  the  care  with 
which  it  was  deposited  in  the  i^ardc  z'iii,  like  a  relic  in 
its  shrine,  and  concluded  that  it  must  be  a  "  great  med- 
icine." That  night  Mr.  Clarke  neglected  to  lock  up 
his  treasure ;  in  the  morning  the  sacred  casket  was 
open  —  the  precious  relic  gone! 

Clarke  was  now  outrageous.  All  the  past  vexations 
that  he  had  suffered  from  this  pilfering  community 
rose  to  mind,  and  he  threatened,  that,  unless  the  goblet 
was  promptly  returned,  he  would  hang  the  thief,  should 
he  eventually  discover  him.  The  day  passed  away, 
however,  without  the  restoration  of  the  cup.  At 
night  sentinels  were  secretly  posted  about  the  camp. 
With  all  their  vigilance,  a  Pierced-nose  contrived  to 
get  into  the  camp  unperceived,  and  to  load  himself  with 
booty;  it  was  only  on  his  retreat  that  he  was  dis- 
covered and  taken. 

At  daybreak  the  culprit  was  brought  to  trial,  and 
promptly  convicted.  He  stood  responsible  for  all  the 
spoliations  of  the  camp,  the  precious  goblet  among  the 
number,  and  Mr.  Clarke  passed  sentence  of  death  upon 
him. 

A  gibbet  was  accordingly  constructed  of  oars :  the 
chief  of^  the  village  and  his  people  were  assembled, 
and  the  culprit  was  produced,  with  his  legs  and  arms 
pinioned.  Clarke  then  made  a  harangue.  He  re- 
minded the  tribe  of  the  benefits  he  had  bestowed  upon 
them  during  his  former  visits,  and  the  many  thefts 
and  other  misdeeds  which  he  had  overlooked.  The 
prisoner,  especially,  had  always  been  peculiarly  well 
treated  by  the  white  men,  but  had   repeatedly  been 


!i 


.it, 


III.'  i* 


M 


426 


ASTORIA 


guilty  of  pilfering".    He  was  to  be  punished  for  his  own 
misdeeds,  and  as  a  warnin,£,r  to  his  trihc. 

The  Indians  now  gathered  round  Mr.  Clarke,  and 
intereeded  for  the  culprit.  They  were  willing  he 
should  be  punished  severely,  but  implored  that  his  life 


ight  l>e 


d.     Th( 


too,  of  Mr.  Clark 


companioi 

considered  the  sentence  too  severe,  and  advised  liim 
to  mitigate  it;  but  he  was  inexorable.  He  was  not 
naturally  a  stern  or  cruel  man ;  but  from  his  boyhood 
he  had  lived  in  the  Indian  country  among  Indian  trad- 
ers, and  held  the  life  of  a  savage  extremely  cheap. 
He  was,  moreover,  a  firm  believer  in  the  doctrine  of 
intimidation. 

Farnham,  a  clerk,  a  tall  "  Green  Mountain  boy  " 
from  Vermont,  who  had  been  robbed  of  a  pistol,  acted 
as  executioner.  The  signal  was  given,  and  the  poor 
Pierced-nose  resisting,  struggling,  and  screaming,  in 
the  most  frightful  manner,  was  launched  into  eternity. 
The  Indians  stood  round  gazing  in  silence  and  mute 
awe,  but  made  no  attempt  to  oppose  the  execution,  nor 
testified  any  emotion  when  it  was  over.  They  locked 
up  their  feelings  within  their  bosoms  until  an  oppor- 
tunity should  arrive  to  gratify  them  with  a  bloody 
act  of  vengeance. 

To  say  nothing  of  the  needless  severity  of  this  act, 
its  impolicy  was  glaringly  obvious.  Mr.  M'Lennan 
and  three  men  were  to  return  to  the  i)ost  with  the 
horses,  their  loads  having  been  transferred  to  the 
canoes.  They  would  have  to  pass  through  a  tract  of 
country  infested  by  this  tribe,  who  were  all  horsemen 
and  hard  riders,  and  might  pursue  them  to  take  ven- 
geance for  the  death  of  their  comrade.  MT.ennan. 
however,  was  a  resolute  fellow,  and  made  light  of  all 
dangers.  He  and  his  three  men  were  present  at  the 
execution,  and  set  off  as  soon  as  life  was  extinct  in  the 
victim;  but,  to  use  the  words  of  one  of  their  com- 
rades,  "  they  did  not   let   the  grass  grow   under  the 


ASTORIA 


427 


lis  own 

<e,  and 
ing   he 
bis  life 
Clarke 
icd  liini 
^vas  not 
x)ybood 
an  trad- 
er cheap, 
rlrine  of 

in  boy  " 
:ol  acted 
tbe  poor 
ming.  in 
eternity, 
ind  mute 
Uion,  nor 
y  locked 
n  oppor- 
a  bloody 

tbis  act, 
I'Lennan 
witb  tbe 
cl   to  tbe 
tract  of 
borsemen 
take  ven- 
I'Lennan, 
obt  of  all 
'nt  at  tbe 
linct  in  tbe 
beir  com- 
under  tbe 


beels  of  their  horses,  as  they  clattered  out  of  the 
Pierced-nose  country,"  and  were  glad  to  find  them- 
selves in  safety  at  the  post. 

Mr.  Clarke  and  his  party  embarked  about  the  same 
time  in  their  canoes,  and  early  on  the  following  day 
readied  the  mouth  of  the  Wallah-Wallah  where  they 
found  Messrs.  Stuart  and  M'Kenzie  awaiting  thcMu; 
the  latter  having  recovered  part  of  the  goods  stolen 
from  his  cache.  Clarke  informed  them  of  the  signal 
punishment  he  had  inflicted  on  the  Pierced-nose,  evi- 
dently expecting  to  excite  their  admiration  by  such  a 
hardy  act  of  justice,  performed  in  the  very  midst  of 
the  Indian  country,  but  was  mortified  at  finding  it 
strongly  censured  as  inhuman,  unnecessary,  and  likely 
to  provoke  hostilities. 

The  parties  thus  united  formed  a  squadron  of  two 
boats  and  six  canoes,  with  which  they  performed  their 
voyage  in  safety  down  the  river,  and  arrived  at  As- 
toria on  the  1 2th  of  June,  bringing  witb  them  a  valu- 
able stock  of  peltries. 

About  ten  days  previously,  the  brigade  which  had 
been  quartered  on  the  banks  of  the  Wollamut,  had  ar- 
rived with  numerous  packs  of  beaver,  the  result  of  a 
few  months'  sojourn  on  that  river.  These  were  the 
first  fruits  of  the  enterprise,  gathered  by  men  as  yet 
mere  strangers  in  the  land ;  but  they  were  such  as  to 
give  substantial  grounds  for  sanguine  anticipations  of 
profit,  when  the  country  should  be  more  completely 
explored,  and  the  trade  established. 


CHAPTER  LIV 

The  partners  found  Mr.  M'Dougal  in  all  the  bustle 
of  preparation ;  having  about  nine  days  previously 
announced  at  the  factory,  his  intention  of  breaking  up 
the  establishment,  and  fixed  upon  the  ist  of  July  for 


428 


ASTORIA 


tlie  time  of  departure.  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke  felt 
hif^hly  displeased  at  his  taking  so  precipitate  a  step, 
without  waiting  for  their  concurrence,  when  he  must 
have  known  that  their  arrival  could  not  he  far  distant. 

Indeed,  the  whole  conduct  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  was 
such  as  to  awaken  strong  doubts  as  to  his  loyal  devo- 
tion to  the  cause.  His  old  sympathies  with  the  North- 
west Company  seem  to  have  revived.  He  had  received 
M'Tavish  and  his  party  with  uncalled  for  hospitality, 
as  though  they  were  friends  and  allies,  instead  of 
being  a  party  of  observation,  come  to  reconnoitre  the 
state  of  affairs  at  Astoria,  and  to  await  the  arrival  of 
a  hostile  ship.  Had  they  been  left  to  themselves,  they 
would  have  been  starved  off  for  want  of  provi- 
sions, or  driven  away  by  the  Chinooks,  who  only 
wanted  a  signal  from  the  factory  to  treat  them  as  in- 
truders and  enemies.  M'Dougal,  on  the  contrary,  had 
supplied  them  from  the  stores  of  the  garrison,  and  had 
gained  them  the  favor  of  the  Indians,  by  treating  them 
as  friends. 

Having  set  his  mind  fixedly  on  the  project  of  break- 
ing up  the  establishment  at  Astoria,  in  the  current  year, 
M'Dougal  was  sorely  disappointed  at  finding  that 
Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke  had  omitted  to  comi)ly 
with  his  request  to  purchase  horses  and  provisions  for 
the  caravan  across  the  mountains.  It  was  now  too 
late  to  make  the  necessary  preparations  in  time  for 
traversing  the  mountains  before  winter,  and  the  project 
had  to  be  postponed. 

In  the  meantime,  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual  ship, 
and  the  apprehensions  entertained  of  the  loss  of  the 
Beaver  and  of  Mr.  Hunt,  had  their  effect  upon  the 
minds  of  Messrs.  Stuart  "nd  Clarke.  They  began  to 
listen  to  the  desponding  representations  of  M'Dougal, 
seconded  by  M'Kenzie,  who  inveighed  against  their 
situation  as  desperate  and  forlorn;  left  to  shift  for 
themselves,  or  perish  upon  a  barbarous  coast;    neg- 


ASTORIA 


429 


.rke  felt 

a  step, 
he  must 

distant, 
gal  was 
'al  clcvo- 
e  X(irth- 

receivecl 
(spitality, 
stead  of 
loitre  the 
irrival  of 
Ives,  they 
)i    provi- 
,vho   only 
em  as  in- 
rary,  had 
1,  and  had 
|ting  them 

of  break- 
rent  year, 
ling  that 
o  comply 
isions  for 
now  too 
time  for 
he  project 

nual  ship, 

3SS  of  the 
upon  the 
began  to 

M'Dougal, 

inst  their 

shift  for 

)ast;    neg- 


lected by  those  who  sent  them  there,  and  threatened 
with  dangers  of  every  kind.  In  this  way  they  were 
brought  to  consent  to  the  plan  of  abandoning  the  coun- 
try in  the  ensuing  year. 

About  this  time,  M'Tavish  applied  at  the  factory  to 
purchase  a  small  supply  of  goods  wherewith  to  trade 
his  way  back  to  his  post  on  the  upper  waters  of  tlic 
Columbia,  having  waited  in  vain  for  tlie  arrival  of 
the  Isaac  Todd.  His  request  brought  on  a  consulta- 
tion among  the  partners.  M'Dougal  urged  that  it 
should  be  complied  with.  He  furthermore  proposed, 
that  they  should  give  up  to  M'Tavish,  for  a  proper  con- 
sideration, the  post  on  the  Spokan,  and  all  its  depend- 
encies, as  they  had  not  sufficient  goods  on  hand  to 
supply  that  post  themselves,  and  to  keep  up  a  competi- 
tion with  the  Northwest  Company  in  the  trade  with 
the  neighboring  Indians.  This  last  representation  has 
since  been  proved  incorrect.  By  inventories,  it  ap- 
pears that  their  stock  in  hand  for  the  supply  of  the 
interior  posts,  was  superior  to  that  of  the  Northwest 
Company;  so  that  they  had  nothing  to  fear  from 
competition. 

Through  the  influence  of  Messrs.  M'Dougal  and 
M'Kenzie,  this  proposition  was  adopted,  and  was 
promptly  accepted  by  M'Tavish.  The  merchandise 
sold  to  him  amounted  to  eight  hundred  and  fifty-eight 
dollars,  to  be  paid  for,  in  the  following  spring,  in 
horses,  or  in  any  other  manner  most  acceptable  to  the 
partners  at  that  period. 

This  agreement  being  concluded,  the  partners 
formed  their  plans  for  the  year  that  they  would  yet 
have  to  pass  in  the  country.  Their  objects  were, 
chiefly,  present  subsistence,  and  the  purchase  of  horses 
for  the  contemplated  journey,  though  they  were  like- 
wise to  collect  as  much  peltries  as  their  diminished 
means  would  command.  Accordingly,  it  was  ar- 
ranged, that  David  Stuart  should  return  to  his  former 


fii-  ':.  ■ 


I  •     'Si!*' 


« 


'■"ill 

^■:^ 

■am 

■I 


'H^j 


|.i|f 


il^P 


430 


ASTORIA 


:inagan, 


and  Mr.  Clarke  should  make 
nis  sojourn  among  tne  Flalhcads.  John  Reed,  the 
sturdy  Hihernian,  was  to  undertake  tlie  Snake  River 
country,  accompanied  hy  Pierre  Dorion  and  Pierre 
Delaunay,  as  hunters,  and  Francis  Landry,  Jean  Bap- 
tiste  Turcotte,  Andre  la  Chapelle,  and  Gillcs  le  Clerc, 
Canadian  voyageurs. 

Astoria,  however,  was  the  post  about  which  tiiey 
felt  the  greatest  solicitude,  and  on  which  they  all  more 
or  less  depended.  The  maintenance  of  this  in  safety 
throughout  the  coming  year,  was,  therefore,  their 
grand  consideration.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  to  continue 
in  command  of  it,  with  a  party  of  forty  men.  They 
would  have  to  depend  chiefly  upon  the  neighboring 
savages  for  their  subsistence.  These,  at  present,  were 
friendly,  but  it  was  to  be  feared  that,  when  they  snould 
discover  the  exigencies  of  the  post,  and  its  real  weak- 
n<-3S,  they  might  proceed  to  hostilities ;  or,  at  any  rate, 
might  cease  to  furnish  their  usual  supplies.  It  was  im- 
portant, therefore,  to  render  the  i)lace  as  independent 
as  possible,  of  the  surrounding  tribes  for  its  support ; 
and  it  was  accordingly  resolved  that  M'Kenzie,  with 
four  hunte"s,  and  eiglit  comi^on  men,  shoidd  WMter 
in  the  abundant  country  of  Wollamut,  from  whence 
they  might  be  enal)led  to  furnish  a  constant  supply  of 
provisions  to  Astoria. 

As  there  was  too  great  a  proportion  of  clerks  for  the 
number  of  privates  in  the  service,  the  engagements  of 
three  of  them,  Ross  Cox,  Ross,  and  M'i^ennan,  were 
surrendered  to  them,  and  they  immediately  enrolled 
themselves  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company; 
glad,  no  doul)t,  to  escape  from  what  they  considered 
a  sinking  ship. 

Having  made  all  these  arrangements,  the  four  part- 
ners, on  the  first  of  July,  signed  a  formal  manifesto, 
stating  tlie  alarming  state  of  their  affairs,  from  the 
nun-arrival  of  the  annual  ship,  and  the  absence  and 


ASTORIA 


431 


lid  make 
e^d.  the 
<e  River 
:1  Pierre 
san  Bap- 
le  Clerc, 

lich  tiiey 
all  more 
in  safety 
)re,    their 
continue 
n.     They 
ijrhhoring 
lent,  were 
icy  siiouUl 
cal  weak- 
;  any  rate, 
;t  was  im- 
depjndcnt 
support ; 
ii/.ie,  with 
lid  wMter 
n  whence 
supply  of 

ks  for  the 
ements  of 
nan,  were 
y  enrolled 
Company ; 
considered 


apprehended  loss  of  the  Beaver,  their  want  of  goods, 
their  despair  of  receiving  any  furtlier  supply,  their 
ignorance  of  tlie  coast,  and  their  disappointment  as  to 
the  interior  trade,  which  tiiey  pronounced  unec|ual  tc 
the  expenses  incurred,  and  incompetent  to  stand  against 
the  powerful  opposition  of  the  Northwest  Company. 
And  as  hy  the  i6th  article  of  the  company's  agreement, 
they  were  authorized  to  a])an(l()n  this  undertaking,  and 
dissolve  the  concern,  if  hefore  the  period  of  live  years 
it  sJionld  he  found  uni)ro(ital)le,  they  now  formally 
announced  their  intention  to  do  so  on  the  ist  day 
of  June,  of  the  ensuing  year,  unless  in  the  interim 
they  should  receive  the  necessary  support  and  supplies 
from  Mr.  Astor,  or  the  stockholders,  with  orders  to 
continue. 

This  instrument,  accompanied  hy  private  letters  of 
similar  import,  was  delivered  to  Mr.  M'Tavish,  who 
departed  on  the  5th  of  July,  lie  engaged  to  forward 
the  (lis])atchcs  to  Mr.  Astor,  hy  the  usual  wmter  ex- 
press sent  overland  hy  the  Northwest  Company. 

The  manifesto  was  signed  with  great  reluctance  hy 
Messrs.  Clarke  and  D.  Stuart,  whose  experience  hy  no 
means  justified  the  discouraging  account  given  in  it 
of  the  internal  trade,  and  who  considered  the  main 
difficulties  of  exploring  an  unknown  and  savage  coun- 
try, and  of  ascertaining  the  hest  trading  and  trapping- 
grounds,  in  a  great  measure  overcome.  They  were 
overruled,  however,  hy  the  in\gent  instances  of  M'Dou- 
gal  and  M'Kenzie,  who,  having  resolved  upon  ahandcjn- 
ing  the  entcr])rise.  were  desirous  of  making  as  strong 
a  case  a?,  possihle  to  excuse  their  conduct  to  Mr.  Astor 
and  to  the  world. 


four  part- 
manifesto, 
from  the 
■)sence  and 


f.^  \ 


sM'w 


IS  ■':«£.'■  ','  "* 


■( 


432 


ASTORIA 


CHAPTER   LV 

While  difficulties  and  disasters  had  been  gathering- 
about  the  infant  settlement  of  Astoria,  the  mind  of  its 
projector  at  New  York  was  a  prey  to  great  anxiety. 
The  ship  Lark,  dispatched  by  hi  n  with  supplies  fur 
the  establishment,  sailed  on  the  6th  of  March,  18 13. 
Within  a  fortnight  afterwards,  he  received  intelligence 
which  justified  all  his  apprehensions  of  hostility  t)n  the 
part  of  the  British.  Ulie  Northwest  Company  had 
made  a  second  memorial  to  that  government,  repre- 
senting Astoria  as  an  American  establishment,  stating 
the  vast  scope  of  its  contemplated  operations,  magni- 
fying the  strength  of  its  fortifications,  and  expressing 
their  fears  that,  unless  crushed  in  the  bud,  it  would 
effect  the  downfall  of  their  trade. 

Influenced  by  these  representations,  the  British  gov- 
ernment ordered  the  frigate  Phcebe  to  be  detached  as 
a  convoy  for  the  armed  ship,  Isaac  Todd,  which  was 
ready  to  sail  with  men  and  munitions  for  forming  a 
new  establishment.  They  were  to  proceed  together  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  capture  or  destroy  what- 
ever i\merican  fortress  they  sliould  find  there,  and 
plant  the  British  flag  on  its  ruins. 

Informed  of  these  movements,  Mr.  Astor  lost  no 
time  in  addressing  a  second  letter  to  the  secretary  of 
state,  communicating  this  intelligence,  and  re(|uesting 
it  might  be  laid  before  the  President ;  as  no  notice, 
however,  had  been  taken  of  his  i)revious  letter,  he  con- 
tented himself  with  this  simple  communication,  and 
made  no  further  application  for  aid. 

Awakened  now  to  the  danger  that  menaced  the  es- 
tablishment at  Astoria,  and  aware  of  the  importance 
of  protecting  this  foothold  of  American  commerce  and 
empire  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  the  government  de- 


ASTORIA 


433 


atherinpj 

nd  of  il^ 

anxiety. 

plies  for 

:h.   1813- 
[cUi^aMice 

ly  cm  the 
)any  iiad 
It,  repre- 
it.  stating 
s,  magni- 
xpressing 
it  Nvoukl 

•itish  gov- 

;t ached  as 

vhich  was 

orming  a 

^oether  to 

[r(^y  what- 

here,   and 

hr  lost  no 
cretary  of 
Ireciiiesting 
Ino  notice, 
Lr,  he  con- 
dition, and 

[ed  the  es- 

Iniportance 

Inierce  and 

•nnient  de- 


termined to  send  the  frigate  Adams,  Captain  Crane, 
upon  this  serv  ice.  On  hearing  of  this  determination, 
Mr.  Astor  immechately  j^roceeded  to  fit  out  a  ship 
called  the  Enterprise,  to  sail  in  company  with  the 
Adams,  freighted  with  additional  supplies  and  rein- 
forcements for  Astoria. 

About  th'  middle  of  June,  while  in  the  midst  of 
these  preparations,  Mr.  Astor  received  a  letter  from 
Mr.  R.  Stuart,  dated  St.  Louis,  May  ist,  confirming 
the  intelligence  already  received  through  the  public 
newspapers,  of  his  safe  return,  and  of  the  arrival  of 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  at  Astoria,  and  giving  the 
most  flattering  accounts  of  the  prosperity  of  the 
enter])rise. 

So  deep  had  been  the  anxiety  of  ^Iv.  Astor,  for  the 
success  of  this  great  object  of  his  ambition,  that  this 
gleam  of  good  news  was  almost  overpowering.  **  I  felt 
ready,"  said  he,  '*  to  fall  upon  my  knees  in  a  transport 
of  gratitude." 

At  the  same  time  he  heard  that  the  Beaver  had  made 
good  her  voyage  from  Xew  ^'ork  to  the  Columbia. 
This  was  additional  ground  of  hope  for  the  welfare 
of  the  little  colony.  The  post  being  thus  relieved  and 
strengthened,  with  an  American  at  its  head,  and  a 
ship  of  war  about  to  sail  for  its  protection,  the  prospect 
for  the  future  seemed  full  of  encouragement,  and  Mr. 
Aistor  proceeded  with  fresh  vigor  to  fit  out  his  mer- 
chant ship. 

Unfortunately  for  Astoria,  this  bright  gleam  of 
sunshine  was  soon  overclouded.  Just  as  the  Adams 
had  received  her  complement  of  men,  and  the  two 
vessels  were  ready  for  sea.  news  came  from  Com- 
modore Chauncey,  commanding  on  Lake  Ontario,  that 
a  reinforcement  of  seamen  was  wanted  in  that  quarter. 
The  demand  was  urgent,  the  crew  of  the  Adams  was 
immediately  transferred  to  that  service,  and  the  ship 
was  laid  up. 

98 


!        i 


I 


41F 

K 
21 

III 

*!H| 


434 


ASTORIA 


This  was  a  most  ill-timed  and  discourajT^ing  blow, 
but  Mr.  Astor  would  not  yet  allow  himself  to  pause 
in  his  undertaking".  He  determined  to  send  the  Enter- 
prise to  sea  alone,  and  let  her  take  the  chance  of  mak- 
ing- her  unprotected  way  across  the  ocean.  Just  at 
th'c  time,  however,  a  British  force  made  its  appear- 
ance off  the  Hook ;  and  the  port  of  New  York  was 
efYectUPlly  blockaded.  To  send  a  ship  to  sea  under 
thes':  circumstances,  would  be  to  expose  her  to  almost 
certain  capture,  'i  he  Enterprise  was,  therefore,  un- 
loaded and  dismantled,  and  Mr.  Astor  was  obliged  to 
comfort  himself  with  the  hope  that  the  Lark  might 
reach  Astoria  in  safety,  and  that,  aided  by  her  sup- 
plies, and  by  the  good  management  of  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  associates,  the  little  colony  might  be  able  to  main- 
tain itself  until  the  return  of  peace. 


CHAPTER  LVI 

We  have  hitherto  had  so  much  to  relate  of  a  p^loomy 
and  disastrous  nature,  that  it  is  with  a  feeling  of  mo- 
mentary relief  we  turn  to  something'  of  a  more  pleas- 
ing complexion,  and  record  the  first,  and  indeed  only 
nuptials  in  high  life  that  took  place  in  the  infant  settle- 
ment of  Astoria. 

M'Dougal,  who  appears  to  have  been  a  man  of  a 
thousand  projects,  and  of  great,  though  somewhat 
irregular  ambition,  suddenly  conceived  the  idea  of 
seeking  the  hand  of  one  of  the  native  princesses,  a 
daughter  of  the  one-eyed  potentate  Comcomly,  who 
held  sway  over  the  fishing  tribe  of  the  Chinooks,  and 
had  long  supplied  the  factory  with  smelts  and 
sturgeons. 

Some  accounts  give  rather  a  romantic  origin  to  this 
afYair,  tracing  it  to  the  stormy  night  when  M'Dougal, 
in  the  course  of  an  exploring  expedition,  was  driven  by 


ASTORIA 


435 


r   blow, 

)  pause 
;  Enter- 
)f  niak- 
Just  at 
a])pear- 
Dik  was 
a  under 
-)  almost 
ore,  un- 
)lif;e(l  to 
k  mii:;lit 
her  sup- 
hint  and 
to  main- 


gloomy 
[P^  of  mo- 
)rc  pleas- 
Iced  only 
:inl  settle- 


In  an  of  a 
.omewhat 
idea  of 
hcesses,  a 
mly,  who 
:)oks,  and 
lelts    and 

rin  to  this 

fl'Dougal, 

driven  by 


stress  of  weather  to  seek  shelter  in  the  royal  abode 
of  Comcomly.  Then  and  there  he  was  first  struck 
with  the  charms  of  this  piscatory  princess,  as  she 
exerted  herself  to  entertain  her  father's  guest. 

The  "  journal  of  Astoria,"  h(nvever,  which  was  kept 
under  his  own  eye,  records  this  union  as  a  high  state 
alliance,  and  great  stroke  of  policy.  The  factory  had 
to  depend,  in  a  great  measure,  on  tlie  Cliinooks  for 
provisions.  They  were  at  present  friendly,  but  it  was 
to  be  feared  they  would  ])rove  otherwise,  should  they 
discover  the  weakness  and  the  exigencies  of  the  post, 
and  the  intention  to  leave  thf*  country.  This  alliance, 
therefore,  would  infallibly  rivet  ».'omcomly  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  Astorians,  and  with  him  the  powerful 
tribe  of  the  Cliinooks.  Be  this  as  it  may,  and  it  is 
hard  to  fathom  the  real  policy  of  governors  and 
princes,  M'Dougal  dispatched  two  of  the  clerks  as  am- 
bassadors extraordinary,  to  wait  upon  the  one-eyed 
chieftain,  and  make  overtures  for  the  hand  of  his 
daughter. 

The  Cliinooks,  though  not  a  very  reilned  nation, 
have  notions  of  matrimonial  arrangements  that  wou^d 
not  disgrace  th.emost  refined  sticklers  for  settlements  and 
pin  money.  The  suitor  repairs  not  to  the  bower  of  his 
mistress,  but  to  her  father's  lodge,  and  throws  down  a 
present  at  his  feet.  His  wishes  are  then  disclosed  by 
some  discreet  friend  employed  by  him  for  the  purpose. 
If  the  suitor  and  his  present  find  'avor  in  the  eyes  of 
the  father,  he  breaks  the  matter  to  his  daughter,  and 
iiKpiires  into  the  state  of  her  inclinations.  Should 
her  answer  be  favorable  the  suit  is  acce])ted  and  the 
lover  has  to  make  further  presents  to  the  father,  of 
horses,  canoes,  and  other  valuables,  according  to  the 
beauty  and  merits  of  the  bride ;  looking  forward  to  a 
return  in  kind  whenever  they  shall  go  to  housekeeping. 

We  have  more  than  once  had  occasion  to  speak  of 
the  shrewdness  of  Comcomly ;    but  never  was  it  ex- 


1/f 


•>'■  m 


43^> 


ASTORIA 


ertcd  more  adroitly  than  on  this  occasion.  Tie  was  a 
great  friend  of  M'Dougal,  and  ])lease(l  with  the  idea 
of  having  so  distingnished  a  son-in-law;  but  so  fa- 
vorable an  opportunity  of  benefiting  his  own  fortune 
was  not  likely  to  occur  a  second  time,  and  he  de- 
termined to  make  the  most  of  it.  Accordingly,  the 
negotiation  was  protracted  with  true  dii)lomatic  skill. 
Conference  after  conference  was  held  with  the  two 
ambassadors.  Comcomly  was  extravagant  in  his 
terms ;  rating  the  charms  of  his  daughter  at  the  highest 
price,  and  indeed  she  is  represented  as  having  one  of  the 
flattest  and  most  aristocratical  heads  in  the  tribe.  At 
length  the  preliminaries  were  all  happily  adjusted.  On 
the  20th  of  July,  early  in  the  aftenKJon,  a  s(|uadn)n  of 
canoes  crossed  over  from  the  village  of  the  Chinooks, 
bearing  the  royal  family  of  Comcomly,  and  all  his 
court. 

That  worthy  sachem  landed  in  princely  state,  ar- 
rayed in  a  bright  blue  blanket  and  red  breech  clout, 
with  an  extra  quantity  of  paint  and  feathers,  attended 
by  a  train  of  half-naked  warriors  and  no1)les.  A 
horse  was  in  waiting  to  receive  the  princess,  who  was 
mounted  behind  one  of  the  clerks,  and  thus  conveyed, 
coy  but  compliant,  to  the  fortress.  Here  she  was  re- 
ceived with  devout,  though  decent  joy,  by  her  expect- 
ing bridegroom. 

Her  bridal  adornments,  it  is  true,  at  first  caused 
some  little  dismay;  she  having  painted  and  anointed 
herself  for  the  occasion  according  to  the  Chinook  toilet ; 
by  dint,  however,  of  copious  ablutions,  she  was  freed 
from  all  adventitious  tint  and  fragrance,  and  entered 
into  the  nuptial  state,  the  cleanest  princess  that  had  ever 
been  known,  of  the  somewhat  unctuous  tribe  of  the 
Chinooks. 

From  that  time  forward,  Comcomly  was  a  daily 
visitor  at  the  fort,  and  was  admitted  into  the  most  in- 
timate councils  of  his  son-in-law.     He  took  an  interest 


iLr^ 


ASTORIA 


437 


he  idea 

so  fa- 
fortune 

he  de- 
Tly,  the 
:ic  skill, 
the  two 

in  his 
:  highest 
le  of  the 
•ihc.  At 
Led.  On 
ad  rem  of 
'hinooks, 
\  all   his 

^tate,  ar- 
ch clout, 
attended 
hies.  A 
who  was 
onveyed, 
was  re- 
r  expect- 

M  caused 
anointed 

k)k  toilet; 

vas  freed 

[1  entered 
had  ever 

DC  of  the 

a   daily 
most  in- 
|n  interest 


in  evcrythii  £^  that  was  g'oin^-  forward,  but  was  par- 
ticularly fre(|nent  in  his  visits  to  the  blacksmith's  shop; 
taskini,''  the  labors  of  the  artificer  in  iron  for  every  kind 
of  weapon  and  imi)lement  suited  to  the  savage  state, 
insonuich  that  the  necessary  business  of  the  factory 
was  often  postponed  to  attend  to  his  recpiisitions. 

The  honey-moon  had  scarce  passed  away,  and 
M'Dougal  was  seated  with  his  bride  in  the  fortress  of 
Astoria,  when,  about  noon  of  the  20th  of  August, 
Gassacop,  the  son  of  Comcomly,  hurried  into  his  jires- 
ence  with  great  agitation,  and  annonnced  a  ship  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  news  produced  a  vast 
sensation.  Was  it  a  ship  of  peace  or  war?  Was  it 
American  or  British?  Was  it  the  Beaver  or  the  Isaac 
Todd?  M'Dougal  hurried  to  the  water-side,  threw 
himself  iiUo  a  boat,  and  ordered  the  hands  to  pull 
with  all  speed  for  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  Those  in 
the  fort  remained  watching  the  entrance  of  the  river, 
anxious  to  know  whether  they  were  to  prepare  for 
greeting  a  friend  or  fighting  an  enemy.  At  length  the 
ship  was  descried  crossing  the  bar,  and  bending  her 
course  towards  Astoria.  Every  gaze  was  fixed  upon 
her  in  sdent  scrutiny,  until  the  American  flag  was 
recognized.  A  general  shout  was  the  first  expression 
of  joy,  and  next  a  salutation  was  thundered  from  the 
cannon  of  the  fort. 

The  vessel  came  to  anchor  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  and  returned  the  salute  The  boat  of  Mr. 
M'Dougal  went  on  board,  and  was  seen  returning  late 
in  the  afternoon.  The  Astorians  watched  her  with 
straining  eyes,  to  discover  who  were  on  board,  but  the 
sun  went  down,  and  the  evening  close:!  in,  before  she 
was  sufficiently  near.  At  length  she  reached  the  land, 
and  Mr.  Hunt  stepped  on  shore.  He  was  hailed  as  one 
risen  from  the  dead,  and  his  return  was  a  signal  for 
nerriment  almost  equal  to  that  which  prevailed  at  the 
nuptials  ,.f  M'Dougal. 


f? 


^ 

If  / 

i 

V 

\ 

1 

Iwi 


'I" 


1  '» 

1    -y*'  ^^ 

.--  -■'« 

'    i1 

ft 

HHk^^ ... 

43» 


ASTORIA 


Wq  must  now  explain  the  cause  of  this  gentleman's 
long  absence,  which  had  given  rise  to  such  gloomy  and 
dispiriting  surmises. 

CHAPTER  LVII 

It  will  be  recollected,  that  the  destination  of  the 
I>eaver,  when  she  sailed  from  Astoria  on  the  4th  of 
August  in  18 1 2,  was  to  proceed  northwardly  along 
the  coast  to  Shcetka,  or  New  Archangel,  there  to  dis- 
pose of  that  part  of  her  cargo  intended  for  the  supply 
of  the  Russian  establishment  at  that  place,  and  then 
to  return  to  Astoria,  where  it  was  expected  she  would 
arrive  in  October. 

New  Archangel  is  situated  in  Norfolk  Sound,  lat. 
57°  2'  N.,  long.  135°  50'  W.  It  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  different  colonies  of  the  Russian  Fur  Company, 
and  tlie  common  rendezvous  of  the  American  vessels 
trading  along  the  coast. 

The  Beaver  met  with  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
mention  in  her  voyage,  and  arrived  at  New  Archangel 
on  the  19th  of  August.  The  place  at  that  time  was  llie 
residence  of  Count  T^^aranhoff,  the  govenuor  of  the 
different  colonies;  a  /caigh,  rugged,  hospitable,  hard- 
drinking  old  Russian;  somewhat  of  a  soldier,  some- 
what of  a  trader;  above  all,  a  b(3on  companion  of  the 
old  roystering  school,  with  a  strong  cross  of  the  bear. 

Air.  Hunt  found  this  hyperborean  veteran  ensconced 
in  a  fort  which  crested  the  whole  of  a  high  rocky  prom- 
ontory. It  mounted  one  hundred  guns,  large  and 
small,  and  was  impregnable  to  Indian  attack,  unaided 
by  artillery.  Here  the  old  governor  lorded  it  over 
sixty  Russians,  who  formed  the  corps  of  the  trading 
establishment,  besides  an  indefinite  number  of  Indian 
hunters  of  the  Kodiak  tribe,  who  were  continually 
coming  and  going,  or  lounging  and  loitering  about  the 
fort  like  so  many  hounds  round  a  sportsman's  hunting 


ASTORIA 


439 


enian  s 
ny  and 


of  the 
4th  of 
^  along 
!  to  dis- 
j  supply 
nd  then 
e  would 

ind,  lat. 
quarters 
jmpany, 
1  vessels 


ticular 
ch  angel 
was  llie 
of   the 
c,  hard- 
sonie- 
11  of  the 
hear, 
isconced 
y  prom- 
ge   and 
unaidetl 
it  over 
trading 
Indian 
tinually 
)out  the 
hunting 


quarters.  Though  a  loose  liver  among  his  guests,  the 
governor  was  a  strict  disciplinarian  among  his  men; 
keeping  tliem  in  ])erfect  subjection,  and  having  seven 
on  guard  night  anil  day. 

Beside  those  immediate  serfs  and  dependents  just 
mentioned,  tiie  old  Russian  potentate  exerted  a  con- 
siderable sway  over  a  numerous  and  irregular  class 
of  maritime  traders,  who  looked  to  him  for  aid  and 
munitions,  and  through  whom  he  may  be  said  to  have, 
in  some  degree,  extended  his  po  ver  along  the  whole 
northwest  coast.  These  were  American  captains  of 
vessels  engaged  in  a  particular  department  of  the  trade. 
One  of  these  captains  would  come,  in  a  manner,  empty- 
handed  to  New  Archangel.  Here  his  ship  would  be 
furnished  with  about  tifty  canoes  and  a  hundred 
Kodiak  hunters,  and  fitted  out  with  provisions,  and 
everything  necessary  for  hunting  the  sea-otter  on  the 
coast  of  California,  where  the  Russians  have  another 
establishment.  The  ship  would  ply  along  the  Cali- 
fornian  coast  from  place  to  place,  dropping  parties  of 
otter  hunters  in  their  canoes,  furnishing  them  only 
with  water,  and  leaving  them  to  depend  upon  their 
own  dexterity  for  a  maintenance.  \\'hen  a  sufficient 
cargo  was  collected,  she  would  gather  up  her  canoes 
and  hunters,  and  return  with  them  to  Archangel ; 
where  the  captain  would  render  in  the  returns  of  his 
voyage,  and  receive  one  half  of  the  skins  for  his  share. 

Over  these  coasting  captains,  as  we  have  hinted,  the 
veteran  governor  exerted  some  sort  of  sway,  but  it 
w-as  of  a  peculiar  and  characteristic  kind ;  it  was  the 
tyranny  of  the  table.  They  were  obliged  to  join  him 
in  his  "  prosnics  "  or  carousals,  and  to  drink  "  pota- 
tions pottle  deep."  His  carousals,  too,  were  not  of 
th°  most  quiet  kind,  nor  were  his  potations  as  mild  as 
nectar.  "  He  is  continually,"  said  Mr.  Hunt,  *'  giving 
entertainments  by  way  of  parade,  and  if  you  do  not 
drink  raw  rum,  and  boiling  punch  as  strong  as  sulphur, 


I 


m 


■    1 
I    ; 


*. 


440 


ASTORIA 


lie  will  insult  you  as  soon  as  lie  gets  drunk,  which  is 
very  shortly  after  sitting,''  liown  t(j  table." 

As  U)  any  '*  temperance  captain  "  who  stood  fast  to 
his  faith,  and  refused  to  give  up  his  sobriety,  he  might 
go  elsewhere  for  a  market,  for  he  stood  no  chance  with 
the  governor.  Rarely,  however,  did  any  cold-water 
caitiif  of  the  kind  darken  the  duor  of  old  liaranhoff; 
the  coasting  captains  knew  too  well  his  humor  and 
their  own  interests;  they  joined  in  his  revels,  they 
drank,  and  sang,  and  whooped,  and  hiccuped,  until 
they  all  got  "half  seas  over,"  and  then  affairs  went 
on  swimmingly. 

An  awful  warning  to  all  "  tlinchers "  occurred 
shortly  before  Mr.  Hunt's  arrival.  A  young  naval 
officer  had  recently  been  sent  out  by  the  emperor  to 
take  command  of  one  of  the  company's  vessels.  The 
governor,  as  usual,  had  him  at  his  **  prosnics,"  and 
plietl  him  with  tiery  potations.  The  young  man  stood 
on  the  defensive  until  the  old  count's  ire  was  completely 
kindled;  he  carried  his  ])oint,  and  made  the  green- 
horn tipsy,  willy  nilly.  In  proportion  as  they  grew 
fuddled  they  grew  noisy,  they  quarrelled  in  their 
cui)s;  the  youngster  paid  old  liaranhoff  in  his  own 
coin  by  rating  him  soundly ;  in  reward  for  which,  when 
sober,  he  was  taken  the  rounds  of  four  pickets,  and 
received  seventy-nine  lashes,  taled  out  with  Russian 
punctuality  of  punishment. 

Such  was  the  old  grizzled  bear  with  whom  Mr.  Hunt 
had  to  do  his  business.  How  he  managed  t(^  cope  with 
his  humor;  whether  he  pledged  himself  in  raw  rum 
and  blazing  punch,  and  '*  clinked  the  can  "  with  him 
as  they  made  their  bargains,  does  not  appear  upon 
record;  we  must  infer,  however,  from  his  general  ob- 
servations on  the  absolute  sway  of  this  hard-drinking 
potentate,  that  he  had  to  conform  to  the  customs  of 
his  court,  and  that  their  business  transactions  pre- 
sented a  maudlin  mixture  of  punch  and  peltry. 


-..  I, 


ASTORIA 


441 


lich  is 

fast  to 
mi^lit 
:c  with 
l-watcr 
inhnlY ; 
or  and 
s,  tlicy 
I,  until 
•s  went 

iccurred 
^-   naval 
)erur  to 
s.     The 
;s,"   and 
\n  stood 
npletely 
;  trreen- 
t'V   i^rew 
in  their 
lis  own 
h,  when 
lets,  and 
Russian 

A\  ITunt 
hj)e  with 
law  rum 
lith  him 
|ar  upon 
leral  ob- 
llrinkin.c^ 
toms  of 
l)ns   pre- 


'I'hc  j^reatcst  annoyance  to  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  was 
the  delay  to  which  he  was  subjected,  in  disposin.s^  of 
tlie  c'dVij^o  ui  the  shij).  and  .i^ettiu},^  the  requisite  returns. 
With  all  the  j^'overnor's  devotions  to  the  bottle,  he 
never  obfuscated  his  faculties  sutViciently  to  lose  sij^^ht 
of  his  interest,  and  is  represented  by  Mr.  Hunt  as  keen, 
not  to  say  crafty,  at  a  bar<^^ain,  as  the  most  arrant  water 
drinker.  A  |onjL>;  time  was  expended  nej^^jtiatinf^  with 
him,  and  by  the  time  the  bargain  was  concluded,  the 
moiuh  of  October  had  arrived.  To  add  to  the  delay 
he  was  to  be  ])aid  for  his  car,L!^o  in  seal  skins.  Now 
it  so  hai)pened  that  there  was  none  of  this  kind  of  peltry 
at  the  fort  of  old  Raranhoff.  It  was  necessary,  there- 
fore, for  Mr.  II1..1I  to  proceed  to  a  seal-catchinjj^  estaly- 
lishment,  which  the  Russian  company  had  at  the  island 
of  St.  Raul  in  the  sea  of  Kanitschatka.  He  accord- 
iui^ly  set  sail  on  the  4th  of  October,  after  havini,''  spent 
forty-five  days  at  Xev.'  Archanj;el  boosinj^^  and  bar- 
staining  with  its  roystering  conuiiander,  and  right  glad 
was  he  to  escape  from  the  clutches  of  "  this  old  man 
of  the  sea." 

The  Beaver  arrived  at  St.  Paul's  on  the  31st  of 
October;  by  which  time,  according  to  arrangement, 
he  ought  to  have  been  back  at  Astoria.  The  Island 
of  St.  Paul's  is  in  latitude  57°  N.,  longitude  170°  or 
171  W.  Its  shores,  in  certain  i)laces,  and  at  certain 
seasons,  are  covered  with  seals,  while  others  are  play- 
ing about  in  the  water.  Of  these,  the  Russians  take 
only  the  small  ones,  from  seven  to  ten  months  old,  and 
carefully  select  the  males,  giving  the  females  their 
freedom,  that  the  breed  may  not  be  diminished.  The 
islanders,  however,  kill  the  large  ones  for  provisions, 
and  for  skins  wherewith  to  cover  their  canoes.  They 
drive  them  from  the  shore  over  the  rocks,  until  within 
a  short  distance  of  their  habitations,  where  they  kill 
them.  By  this  means,  they  save  themselves  the  trouble 
of  carrying  the  skins  and  have  the  flesh  at  hand.    This 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


nf 


jfj 


* 


442 


ASTORIA 


is  thrown  in  heaps,  and  when  the  season  for  skinning 
is  over,  they  take  out  the  entrails  and  make  one  heap 
of  the  blubber.  This,  with  driftwood,  serves  for  fuel, 
for  the  island  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  They  make 
another  heap  of  the  flesh,  which,  with  the  eggs  of  sea- 
fowls,  preserved  in  oil,  an  occasional  sea-lion,  a  few 
ducks  in  winter,  and  some  wild  roots,  compose  their 
food. 

Mr.  Hunt  found  seven  Russians  at  the  island,  and 
one  hundred  hunters,  natives  of  Oonalaska,  with  their 
families.  They  lived  in  cabins  that  looked  like  canoes ; 
being,  for  the  most  part,  formed  of  the  jaw-bone  of 
a  whale,  put  up  as  rafters,  across  which  were  laid  pieces 
of  driftwood  covered  over  with  long  grass,  the  skins 
of  large  sea  animals,  and  earth ;  so  as  to  be  quite  com- 
fortable, in  despite  of  the  rigors  of  the  climate;  though 
we  are  told  they  had  as  ancient  and  fish-like  an  odor, 
"  as  had  the  quarters  of  Jonah,  when  he  lodged  within 
the  whale." 

In  one  of  these  odoriferous  mansions,  Mr.  Hunt 
occasionally  took  up  his  abode,  that  he  might  be  at 
hand  to  hasten  the  loading  of  the  ship.  The  operation, 
however,  was  somewhat  slow,  for  it  was  necessary  to 
overhaul  and  inspect  every  pack  to  prevent  imposition, 
and  the  peltries  had  then  to  be  conveyed  in  large  boats, 
made  of  skins,  to  the  ship,  which  was  some  little  dis- 
tance from  the  shore,  standing  off  and  on. 

One  night,  while  Mr.  Hunt  was  on  shore,  with  some 
others  of  the  crew,  there  arose  a  terrible  gale.  When 
the  day  broke,  the  ship  was  not  to  be  seen.  He  watched 
for  her  with  anxious  eyes  until  night,  but  in  vain. 
Day  after  day  of  boisterous  storms,  and  howling  wintry 
weather,  were  passed  in  watchfulness  and  solicitude. 
Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  a  dark  and  angry  sea,  and 
a  scowling  northern  sky ;  and  at  night  he  retired  within 
the  jaws  of  the  whale,  and  nestled  disconsolately 
among   seal   skins. 


skinning 
)ne  heap 
for  fuel, 
ley  make 
s  of  sea- 
1,  a  few 
3se  their 

and,  and 
nth  their 
i  canoes ; 
-bone  of 
lid  pieces 
the  skins 
Liite  com- 
;  though 
an  odor, 
ed  within 

r.  Hunt 
•ht  be  at 
peration, 
|essary  to 
position, 
ge  boats, 
ittle  dis- 

dth  some 
.    When 

watched 

in  vain, 
[g  wintry 

)Ucitude. 

sea,  and 
fcd  within 
(nsolately 


ASTORIA 


443 


At  length,  on  the  13th  of  November,  the  Beaver 
made  her  appearance;  much  the  worse  for  the  stomiy 
conflicts  she  had  sustained  in  those  hyperborean  seas. 
She  had  been  obliged  to  carry  a  press  of  sail  in  heavy 
gales  to  be  able  to  hold  her  ground,  and  had  conse- 
quently sustained  great  damage  in  her  canvas  and  rig- 
ging. Mr.  Hunt  lost  no  time  in  hurrying  the  residue 
of  the  cargo  on  board  of  her;  then,  bidding  adieu  to 
his  seal-fishing  friends,  and  his  whalebone  habitation, 
he  put  forth  once  more  to  sea. 

He  was  now  for  making  the  best  of  his  way  to 
Astoria,  and  fortunate  would  it  have  been  for  the  in- 
terests of  that  place,  and  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor, 
had  he  done  so;  but,  unluckily,  a  perplexing  question 
rose  in  his  mind.  The  sails  and  rigging  of  the  Beaver 
had  been  much  rent  and  shattered  in  the  late  storm; 
would  she  be  able  to  stand  the  hard  gales  to  be  expected 
in  making  Columbia  River  at  this  season?  Was  it 
prudent,  also,  at  this  boisterous  time  of  the  year  to  risk 
the  valuable  cargo  which  she  now  had  on  board,  by 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  dangerous  bar  of  that 
river?  These  doubts  were  probably  suggested  or  en- 
forced by  Captain  Sowle,  who,  it  has  already  been 
seen,  was  an  over-cautious,  or  rather,  a  timid  seaman, 
and  they  may  have  had  some  weight  with  Mr.  Hunt ; 
but  there  were  other  considerations,  which  more 
strongly  swayed  his  mind.  The  lateness  of  the  season, 
and  the  unforeseen  delays  the  ship  had  encountered 
at  New  Archangel,  and  by  being  obliged  to  proceed 
to  St.  Paul's,  had  put  her  so  much  back  in  her  calcu- 
lated time,  that  there  was  a  risk  of  her  arriving 
so  late  at  Canton,  as  to  come  to  a  bad  market,  both 
for  the  sale  of  her  peltries,  and  the  purchase  of  a  re- 
turn cargo.  He  considered  it  to  the  ins-^rest  of  the 
company,  therefore,  that  he  should  proceed  at  once 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands;  there  wait  the  arrival  of 
the  annual  vessel  from  New  York,  take  passage  in 


444 


ASTORIA 


1 1      *  >  i 


'    1  ; 


her  to  Astoria,  and  suffer  the  Beaver  to  continue  on 
to  Canton. 

On  the  other  hand,  he  was  urged  to  the  other  course 
by  his  engagements ;  by  the  plan  of  the  voyage  marked 
out  for  the  Beaver,  by  Mr.  Astor;  by  his  inchnation, 
and  the  possibihty  that  the  estabhshment  might  need 
his  presence,  and  by  the  recollection  that  there  must 
already  be  a  large  amount  of  peltries  collected  at  As- 
toria, and  waiting  for  the  return  of  the  Beaver,  to 
convey  them  to  market. 

These  conflicting  questions  perplexed  and  agitated 
his  mind  and  gave  rise  to  much  anxious  reflection,  for 
he  was  a  conscientious  man  that  seems  ever  to  have 
aimed  at  a  faithful  discharge  of  his  duties,  and  to  have 
had  the  interests  of  his  employers  earnestly  at  heart. 
His  decision  in  the  present  instance  was  injudicious, 
and  proved  unfortunate.  It  was,  to  bear  away  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  He  persuaded  himself  that  it  was 
a  matter  of  necessity,  and  that  the  distressed  condition 
of  the  ship  left  him  no  other  alternative ;  but  we  rather 
suspect  he  was  so  persuaded  by  the  representations  of 
the  timid  captain.  They  accordingly  stood  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  arrived  at  Woahoo,  where  the  ship 
underwent  the  necessary  repairs,  and  again  put  to  sea 
on  the  1st  of  January,  1813;  leaving  Mr.  Hunt  on  the 
island. 

We  will  follow  the  Beaver  to  Canton,  as  her  for- 
tunes, in  some  measure,  exemplify  the  evil  of  com- 
manders of  ships  acting  contrary  to  orders;  and  as 
they  form  a  part  of  the  tissue  of  cross-purposes  that 
marred  the  great  commercial  enterprise  we  have  under- 
taken to  record. 

The  Beaver  arrived  safe  at  Canton,  where  Captain 
Sowle  found  the  letter  of  Mr.  Astor,  giving  him  in- 
formation of  the  war  and  directing  him  to  convey  the 
intelligence  to  Astoria.  He  wrote  a  reply,  dictated 
either  by  timidity  or  obstinacy,  in  which  he  declined 


ASTORIA 


445 


tinue  on 

:r  course 
i  marked 
;lination, 
ght  need 
ere  must 
id  at  As- 
eaver,  to 

agitated 
ction,  for 
■  to  have 
,d  to  have 

at  heart, 
judicious, 
ly  for  the 
lat  it  was 
condition 
we  rather 
tations  of 
for  the 
e  the  ship 

ut  to  sea 

nt  on  the 

her  for- 

of  com- 

and  as 

)oses  that 

ive  under- 

[e  Captain 
\g  him  in- 
jonvey  the 
dictated 
le  declined 


complying  with  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor,  but  said  he 
would  wait  for  the  return  of  peace,  and  then  come 
home.  The  other  proceedings  of  Captain  Sowle  were 
equally  wrongheaded  and  unlucky.  He  was  offered 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  for  the  fur  he 
had  taken  on  board  at  St.  Paul's.  The  goods  for  which 
it  had  been  procured,  cost  but  twenty-five  thousand 
dollars  in  New  York.  Had  he  accepted  this  offer,  and 
re-invested  the  amount  in  nankeens,  which  at  that  time, 
in  consequence  of  the  interruption  to  commerce  by  the 
war,  were  at  two  thirds  of  their  usual  price,  the  whole 
would  have  brought  three  hundred  thousand  dollars 
in  New  York.  It  is  true,  the  war  would  have  rendered 
it  unsafe  to  attempt  the  homeward  voyage,  but  he 
might  have  put  the  goods  in  store  at  Canton,  until  after 
the  peace,  and  have  sailed  without  risk  of  capture  to 
Astoria ;  bringing  to  the  partners  at  that  place  tidings 
of  the  great  profits  realized  on  the  outward  cargo,  and 
the  still  greater  to  be  expected  from  the  returns.  The 
news  of  such  a  brilliant  commencement  to  their  under- 
taking would  have  counterbalanced  the  gloomy  tidings 
of  the  war;  it  would  have  infused  new  spirit  into  them 
all,  and  given  them  courage  and  constancy  to  persevere 
in  the  enterprise.  Captain  Sowle,  however,  refused 
the  offer  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars, 
and  stood  wavering  and  chaffering  for  higher  terms. 
The  furs  began  to  fall  in  value ;  this  only  increased  his 
irresolution;  they  sunk  so  much  that  he  feared  to  sell 
at  all ;  he  borrowed  money  on  Mr.  Astor's  account  at 
an  interest  of  eighteen  per  cent.,  and  laid  up  his  ship 
to  await  the  return  of  peace. 

In  the  meanwhile,  Mr.  Hunt  soon  saw  reason  to 
repent  the  resolution  he  had  adopted  in  altering  the 
destination  of  the  ship.  His  stay  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands  was  prolonged  far  beyond  all  expectation.  He 
looked  in  vain  for  the  annual  ship  in  the  spring.  Month 
after  month  passed  by,  and  still  she  did  not  make  her 


446 


ASTORIA 


UfPi 


f,a»  *! 


appearance.  He,  too,  proved  the  danger  of  departing 
from  orders.  Had  he  returned  from  St.  Paul's  to 
Astoria,  all  the  anxiety  and  despondency  about  his  fate, 
and  about  the  whole  course  of  the  undertaking,  would 
have  been  obviated.  The  Beaver  would  have  received 
the  furs  collected  at  the  factory  and  taken  them  to 
Canton,  and  great  gains,  instead  of  great  losses,  would 
have  been  the  result.  The  greatest  blunder,  however, 
was  that  committed  by  Captain  Sowle. 

At  length,  about  the  20th  of  June,  the  ship  Albatross, 
Captain  Smith,  arrived  from  China,  and  brought  the 
first  tidings  of  the  war  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Mr. 
Hunt  was  no  longer  in  doubt  and  perplexity  as  to  the 
reason  of  the  non-appearance  of  the  annual  ship.  His 
first  thoughts  were  for  the  welfare  of  Astoria,  and, 
concluding  that  the  inhabitants  would  probably  be  in 
want  of  provisions,  he  chartered  the  Albatross  for  two 
thousand  dollars,  to  land  him,  with  some  supplies,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  where  he  arrived,  as  we 
have  seen,  on  the  20th  o.f  August,  after  a  year's  sea- 
faring that  might  have  furnished  a  chapter  in  the 
wanderings  of  Sinbad. 


CHAPTER   LVIII 

Mr.  Hunt  was  overwhelmed  with  surprise  when  he 
learnt  the  resolution  taken  by  the  partners  to  abandon 
Astoria.  He  soon  found,  however,  that  matters  had 
gone  too  far,  and  the  minds  of  his  colleagues  had  be- 
come too  firmly  bent  upon  the  measure,  to  render  any 
opposition  of  avail.  He  was  beset,  too,  with  the  same 
disparaging  accounts  of  the  interior  trade,  and  of  the 
whole  concerns  and  prospects  of  the  company  that  had 
been  rendered  to  Mr.  Astor.  His  own  experience  had 
been  full  of  perplexities  and  discouragements.    He  had 


ASTORIA 


447 


lepartlng 
Paul's  to 
:  his  fate, 
g,  would 
received 
them  to 
es,  would 
however, 

Vlbatross, 
DUght  the 
ids.     Mr. 

as  to  the 
hip.  His 
3ria,  and, 
ibly  be  in 
;s  for  two 
ipplies,  at 
ed,  as  we 

ear's  sea- 
er  in  the 


when  he 
abandon 
itters  had 
s  had  be- 
ender  any 
the  same 
nd  of  the 
that  had 
ience  had 
He  had 


a  conscientious  anxiety  for  the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor, 
and,  not  comprehending  the  extended  views  of  that 
gentleman,  and  his  habit  of  operating  with  great 
amounts,  he  had  from  the  first  been  daunted  by  the 
enormous  expenses  required,  and  had  become  disheart- 
ened by  the  subsequent  losses  sustained,  which  ap- 
peared to  him  to  be  ruinous  in  their  magnitude.  By 
degrees,  therefore,  he  was  brought  to  acquiesce  in  the 
step  taken  by  his  colleagues,  as  perhaps  advisable  in 
the  exigencies  of  the  case;  his  only  care  was  to  wind 
up  the  business  with  as  little  further  loss  as  possible 
to  Mr.  Astor. 

A  large  stock  of  valuable  furs  was  collected  at  the 
factory,  which  it  was  necessary  to  get  to  a  market. 
There  were  twenty-five  Sandwich  Islanders  also  in 
the  employ  of  the  company,  whom  they  were  bound, 
by  express  agreement,  to  restore  to  their  native  country. 
For  these  purposes  a  ship  was  necessary. 

The  Albatross  was  bound  to  the  Marquesas,  and 
thence  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  was  resolved  that 
Mr.  Hunt  should  sail  in  her  in  quest  of  a  vessel,  and 
should  return,  if  possible,  by  the  ist  of  January,  bring- 
ing with  him  a  supply  of  provisions.  Should  anything 
occur,  however,  to  prevent  his  return,  an  arrangement 
was  to  be  proposed  to  Mr.  M'Tavish,  to  transfer  such 
of  the  men  as  were  so  disposed,  from  the  service  of 
the  American  Fur  Company  into  that  of  the  Northwest, 
the  latter  becoming  responsible  for  the  wages  due 
them,  on  receiving  an  equivalent  in  goods  from  the 
store-house  of  the  factory.  As  a  means  of  facilitating 
the  dispatch  of  business,  Mr.  M'Dougal  proposed,  that 
in  case  Mr.  Hunt  should  not  return,  the  whole  arrange- 
ment with  Mr.  M'Tavish  should  be  left  solely  to  him. 
This  was  assented  to;  the  contingency  being  consid- 
ered possible,  but  not  probable. 

It  is  proper  to  note,  that,  on  the  first  announcement 
by  Mr.  M'Dougal  of  his  intention  to  break  up  the 


448 


ASTORIA 


r'[^i 


establishment,  three  of  the  clerks,  British  subjects,  had, 
with  his  consent,  passed  into  tl*.^  service  of  the  North- 
west Company,  and  departed  with  Mr.  M'Tavish  for 
his  post  in  the  interior. 

Having  arranged  all  these  ma<^<^ers  during  a  sojourn 
of  six  days  at  Astoria,  Mr.  Hunt  set  sail  in  the  Alba- 
tross on  the  26th  of  August,  and  arrived  without  acci- 
dent at  the  Marquesas.  He  had  not  been  there  long, 
when  Porter  arrived  in  the  frigate  Essex,  bringing  in 
a  number  of  stout  London  wdialers  as  prizes,  having 
made  a  sweeping  cruise  in  the  Pacific.  From  Commo- 
dore Porter  he  received  the  alarming  intelligence  that 
the  British  frigate  Phoebe,  with  a  storeship  mounted 
with  battering  pieces,  calculated  to  attack  forts,  had 
arrived  at  Rio  Janeiro,  where  she  had  been  joined  by 
the  sloops  of  war  Cherub  and  Raccoon,  and  that  they 
had  all  sailed  in  company  on  the  6th  of  July  for  the 
Pacific,  bound,  as  it  was  supposed,  to  Columbia  River. 

Here,  then,  was  the  death-warrant  of  unfortunate 
Astoria!  The  anxious  mind  of  Mr.  Hunt  was  in 
greater  perplexity  than  ever.  He  had  been  eager  to 
extricate  the  property  of  Mr.  Astor  from  a  failing 
concern  with  as  little  loss  as  possible ;  there  was  now 
danger  that  the  whole  would  be  swallowed  up.  How 
was  it  to  be  snatched  from  the  gulf  ?  It  was  impossible 
to  charter  a  ship  for  the  purpose,  now  that  a  British 
squadron  was  on  its  way  to  the  river.  He  applied  to 
purchase  one  of  the  whale  ships  brought  in  by  Commo- 
dore Porter.  The  commodore  demanded  twenty-five 
thousand  dollars  for  her.  The  price  appeared  exorbi- 
tant, and  no  bargain  could  be  made.  Mr.  Hunt  then 
urged  the  commodore  to  fit  out  one  of  his  prizes,  and 
send  her  to  Astoria,  to  bring  ofif  the  property  and  part 
of  the  people,  but  he  declined,  "  from  want  of  au- 
thority." He  assured  Mr.  Hunt,  however,  that  he 
would  endeavor  to  fall  in  with  the  enemy,  or,  should 
he  hear  of  their  having  certainly  gone  to  the  Columbia, 


ASTORIA 


449 


cts,  had, 
2  North- 
,vish  for 

sojourn 
he  Alba- 
out  acci- 
ere  long, 
nging  in 
;,  having 
Commo- 
ence  that 
mounted 
orts,  had 
joined  by 
that  they 
y  for  the 
)ia  River. 
[fortunate 
I  was   in 
eager  to 
failing 
was  now 
p.     How 
npossible 
British 
)plied  to 
Commo- 
/enty-five 
d  exorbi- 
unt  then 
izes,  and 
and  part 
it  of  au- 
that  he 
r,  should 
olumbia, 


he  would  either  follow  or  anticipate  them,  should  his 
circumstances  warrant  such  a  step. 

In  this  tantalizing  state  of  suspense,  Mr.  Hunt  was 
detained  at  the  Marquesas  until  November  23d,  when 
he  proceeded  in  the  Albatross  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
He  still  cherished  a  faint  hope  that,  notwithstanding 
the  war,  and  all  other  discouraging  circumstances,  the 
annual  ship  might  have  been  sent  by  Mr.  Astor,  and 
might  have  touched  at  the  islands,  and  proceeded  to 
the  Columbia.  He  knew  the  pride  and  interest  taken 
by  that  gentleman  in  his  great  enterprise,  and  that  he 
would  not  be  deterred  by  dangers  and  difficulties  from 
prosecuting  it;  much  less  would  he  leave  the  infant 
establishment  without  succor  and  support  in  the  time 
of  trouble.  In  this,  we  have  seen,  he  did  but  justice 
to  Mr.  Astor;  and  we  must  now  turn  to  notice  the 
cause  of  the  non-arrival  of  the  vessel  which  he  had 
dispatched  with  reinforcements  and  supplies.  Her 
voyage  forms  another  chapter  .of  accidents  in  this  event- 
ful story. 

The  Lark  sailed  from  New  York  on  the  6th  of 
March,  18 13,  and  proceeded  prosperously  on  her 
voyage,  until  within  a  few  degrees  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Here  a  gale  sprang  up  that  soon  blew  with 
tremendous  violence.  The  Lar\  was  a  stanch  and 
noble  ship,  and  for  a  time  buffeted  bravely  with  the 
storm,  fjnluckily,  however,  she  "  broached  to,"  and 
was  struck  by  a  heavy  sea,  that  hove  her  on  her  beam- 
ends.  The  helm,  too,  was  knocked  to  leeward,  all  com- 
mand of  the  vessel  was  lost,  and  another  mountain 
wave  completely  overset  her.  Orders  w^ere  given  to 
cut  away  the  masts.  In  the  hurry  and  confusion,  the 
boats  also  were  unfortunately  cut  adrift.  The  wreck 
then  righted,  but  was  a  mere  hulk,  full  of  water,  with 
a  heavy  sea  washing  over  it,  and  all  the  hatches  off. 
On  mustering  the  crew,  one  man  was  missing,  who  was 
discovered  below  in  the  forecastle,  drowned. 

29 


450 


ASTORIA 


I 


,i   i 


i''i  ,ff 


),t: 


In  cutting  away  the  masts,  it  had  been  utterly  im- 
possible to  observe  the  necessary  precaution  of  com- 
mencing- with  the  lee  rigging,  that  being,  from  the 
position  of  the  ship,  completely  under  water.  The 
masts  and  spars,  therefore,  being  linked  to  the  wreck 
by  the  shrouds  and  the  rigging,  remained  alongside 
for  four  days.  During  all  this  time  the  ship  lay  rolling 
in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  the  heavy  surges  breaking  over 
her,  and  the  spars  heaving  and  banging  to  and  fro, 
bruising  the  half -drowned  sailors  that  clung  to  the 
bowsprit  and  the  stumps  of  the  mast.  The  sufferings 
of  these  poor  fellows  were  intolerable.  They  stood  to 
their  waists  in  water,  in  imminent  peril  of  being  washed 
off  by  every  surge.  In  this  position  they  dared  not 
sleep,  lest  they  should  let  go  their  hold  and  be  swept 
away.  The  only  dry  place  on  the  wreck  was  the  bow- 
sprit. Here  they  took  turns  to  be  tied  on,  for  half  an 
hour  at  a  time,  and  in  this  way  gained  short  snatches 
of  sleep. 

On  the  14th,  the  first  mate  died  at  his  post,  and  was 
swept  off  by  the  surges.  On  the  17th,  two  seamen, 
faint  and  exhausted,  were  washed  overboard.  The 
next  wave  threw  their  bodies  back  upon  the  deck, 
where  they  remained,  swashing  backward  and  forward, 
ghastly  objects  to  the  almost  perishing  survivors.  Mr. 
Ogden,  the  supercargo,  who  was  at  the  bowsprit,  called 
to  the  men  nearest  to  the  bodies,  to  fasten  them  to  the 
wreck;  as  a  last  horrible  resource  in  case  of  being 
driven  to  extremity  by  famine! 

On  the  17th  the  gale  gradually  subsided,  and  the 
sea  became  calm.  The  sailors  now  crawled  feebly  about 
the  wreck,  and  began  to  relieve  it  from  the  main  in- 
cumbrances. The  spars  were  cleared  away,  the  an- 
chors and  guns  heaved  overboard;  the  sprit-sail  yard 
was  rigged  for  a  jury-mast,  and  a  mizzen  topsail  set 
upon  it.  A  sort  of  stage  was  made  of  a  few  broken 
spars,  on  which  the  crew  were  raised  above  the  surface 


^'  'W 


ASTORIA 


451 


terly  im- 
of  com- 
rom  the 
ir.  The 
le  wreck 
ilongsicle 
ly  rolHng 
cing  over 
and  fro, 
g  to  the 
,ufferings 

stood  to 
g  washed 
lared  not 
be  swept 

the  bow- 
>r  half  an 
:  snatches 

,  and  was 
seamen, 

rd.  The 
he  deck, 
forward, 

ors.    Mr. 

rit,  called 

em  to  the 
of  being 

and  the 
bly  about 
main  in- 

the  an- 
-sail  yard 
opsail  set 
w  broken 
le  surface 


of  the  water,  so  as  to  be  enabled  to  keep  themselves 
dry,  and  to  sleep  comfortably.  Still  their  sufferings 
from  hunger  and  thirst  were  great ;  but  there  was  a 
Sandwich  Islander  on  board,  an  expert  swimmer,  who 
found  his  way  into  the  cabin,  and  occasionally  brought 
up  a  few  bottles  of  wine  and  porter,  and  at  length  got 
into  the  run,  and  secured  a  quarter  cask  of  wine.  A 
little  raw  pork  was  likewise  procured,  and  dealt  out 
with  a  sparing  hand.  The  horrors  of  their  situation 
were  increased  by  the  sight  of  numerous  sharks,  prowl- 
ing about  the  wreck,  as  if  waiting  for  their  prey.  On 
the  24th,  the  cook,  a  black  man,  died,  and  was  cast 
into  the  sea,  when  he  was  instantly  seized  on  by  these 
ravenous  monsters. 

They  had  been  several  days  making  slow  headway 
under  their  scanty  sail,  when,  on  the  25th,  they  came 
in  sight  of  land.  It  was  about  fifteen  leagues  distant, 
and  they  remained  two  or  three  days  drifting  along 
in  sight  of  it.  On  the  28th,  they  descried,  to  their  great 
transport,  a  canoe  approaching,  managed  by  natives. 
They  came  alongside,  and  brought  a  most  welcome 
supply  of  potatoes.  They  informed  them  that  the  land 
they  had  made  was  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The 
second  mate  and  one  of  the  seamen  went  on  shore  in 
the  canoe  for  water  and  provisions,  and  to  procure  aid 
from  the  islanders,  in  tow  ing  the  wreck  into  a  harbor. 

Neither  of  the  men  returned,  nor  was  any  assistance 
sent  from  shore.  The  next  day,  ten  or  twelve  canoes 
came  alongside,  but  roamed  round  the  wreck,  like  so 
many  sharks,  and  would  render  no  aid  in  towing  her 
to  land. 

The  sea  continued  to  break  over  the  vessel  with  such 
violence,  that  it  was  impossible  to  stand  at  the  helm 
without  the  assistance  of  lashings.  The  crew  were  now 
so  worn  down  by  famine  and  thirst,  that  the  captain 
saw  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  withstand  the 
breaking  of  the  sea,  when  the  ship  should  ground;  he 


yi'i 


45^ 


ASTORIA 


deemed  the  only  chance  for  their  lives,  therefore,  was 
to  get  to  land  in  the  canoes,  and  stand  ready  to  receive 
and  protect  the  wreck  wlien  she  should  drift  to  shore. 
Accordingly,  they  all  got  safe  to  land,  hut  had  scarcely 
touched  the  beach  when  they  were  surrounded  by  the 
natives,  who  stripped  them  almost  naked.  The  name 
of  this  inhospitable  island  was  Tahoorowa. 

In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  wreck  came  drifting* 
to  the  strand,  with  the  surf  thundering  around  her, 
and  shortly  afterwards  bilged.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing, numerous  casks  of  provisions  floated  on  shore. 
The  natives  staved  them  for  the  sake  of  the  iron  hoops, 
but  would  not  allow  the  crew  to  help  themselves  to  the 
contents,  or  to  go  on  board  of  the  wreck. 

As  the  crew  were  in  want  of  everything,  and  as  it 
might  be  a  long  time  before  any  opportunity  occurred 
for  them  to  get  away  from  these  islands,  Mr.  Ogden, 
as  soon  as  he  could  get  a  chance,  made  his  way  to  the 
island  of  Owyhee,  and  endeavored  to  make  some  ar- 
rangement with  the  king  for  the  relief  of  his  compan- 
ions in  misfortune. 

The  illustrious  Tamaahmaah,  as  we  have  shown  on 
a  former  occasion,  was  a  shrewd  bargainer,  and  in 
the  present  instance  proved  himself  an  experienced 
wrecker.  His  negotiations  with  M'Dougal,  and  the 
other  "  Eris  of  the  great  American  Fur  Company," 
had  but  little  effect  on  present  circumstances,  and  he 
proceeded  to  avail  himself  of  their  misfortunes.  He 
agreed  to  furnish  the  crew  with  provisions  during  their 
stay  in  his  territories,  and  to  return  to  them  all  their 
clothing  that  could  be  found,  but  he  stipulated  that  the 
wreck  should  be  abandoned  to  him  as  a  waif  cast  by 
fortune  on  his  shores.  With  these  conditions  Mr.  Og- 
den was  fain  to  comply.  Upon  this  the  great  Tamaah- 
maah deputed  his  favorite,  John  Young,  the  tarpaulin 
governor  of  Owyhee,  to  proceed  with  a  number  of  the 
royal  guards,  and  take  possession  of  the  wreck  on  be- 


ASTORIA 


453 


fore,  was 
to  receive 
to  shore. 
1  scarcely 
ed  by  the 
rhe  name 

e  drifting* 
ound  her, 
ing  morn- 
on  shore, 
ron  hoops, 
Ives  to  the 

and  as  it 
{  occurred 
[r.  Ogden, 
A^ay  to  the 
;  some  ar- 
s  compan- 

shown  on 

r,  and  in 

xperienced 

and  the 

ompany," 

s,  and  he 

unes.     He 

ring  their 

all  their 
id  that  the 
if  cast  by 

Mr.  Og- 
;  Tamaah- 

tarpaulin 
ber  of  the 
;ck  on  be- 


n 


half  of  the  crown.  This  was  done  accordingly,  and 
the  property  and  crew  were  removed  to  Owyhee.  Tlie 
royal  bounty  appears  to  have  been  but  scanty  in  its 
dispensations.  The  crew  fared  but  meagrely ;  though, 
on  reading  the  journal  of  the  voyage,  it  is  singular  to 
find  them,  after  all  the  hardships  they  had  suffered, 
so  sensitive  about  petty  inconveniences,  as  to  exclaim 
against  the  king  as  a  "  savage  monster,"  for  refusing 
them  a  "  pot  to  cook  in,"  and  denying  Mr.  Ogden  the 
use  of  a  knife  and  fork  which  had  been  saved  from  the 
wreck. 

Such  was  the  unfortunate  catastrophe  of  the  Lark; 
had  she  reached  her  destination  in  safety,  affairs  at 
Astoria  might  have  taken  a  different  course.  A  strange 
fatality  seems  to  have  attended  all  the  expeditions  by 
sea,  nor  were  those  by  land  much  less  disastrous. 

Captain  Northrop  was  still  at  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
on  December  20th,  when  Mr.  Hunt  arrived.  The  latter 
immediately  purchased,  for  ten  thousand  dollars,  a 
brig  called  the  Pedler,  and  put  Captain  Northrop  in 
command  of  her.  They  set  sail  for  Astoria  on  the  22d 
January,  intending  to  remove  the  property  from  thence 
as  speedily  as  possible  to  the  Russian  settlements  on 
the  northwest  coast,  to  prevent  it  from  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  British.  Such  were  the  orders  of  Mr. 
As  tor,  sent  out  by  the  Lark. 

We  will  now  leave  Mr.  Hunt  on  his  voyage,  and 
return  to  see  what  has  taken  place  at  Astoria  during 
his  absence. 


CHAPTER    LIX 

On  the  2d  of  October,  about  five  weeks  after  Mr.  Hunt 
had  sailed  in  the  Albatross  from  Astoria,  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
set  off  with  two  canoes,  and  twelve  men,  for  the  posts 
of  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke,  to  apprise  them  of  the 


1: 


454 


ASTORIA 


'  w 


ij 


<.' 


new  arrangements  determined  upon  in  the  recent  con- 
ference of  the  partners  at  the  factory. 

He  had  not  ascended  the  river  a  hundred  miles,  when 
he  met  a  squadron  of  ten  canoes,  sweeping  merrily 
down  under  British  colors,  the  Canadian  oarsmen,  as 
usual,  in  full  song. 

It  was  an  armament  fitted  out  by  M'Tavish,  who 
had  with  him  Mr.  J.  Stuart,  another  partner  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  together  with  some  clerks,  and 
sixty-eight  men  —  seventy-five  souls  in  all.  They  had 
heard  of  the  frigate  Phoebe  and  the  Isaac  Todd  being 
on  the  high  seas,  and  were  on  their  way  down  to  await 
their  arrival.  In  one  of  the  canoes  Mr.  Clarke  came 
passenger,  the  alarming  intelligence  having  brought 
him  down  from  his  post  on  the  Spokan.  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
immediately  determined  to  return  with  him  to  Astoria, 
and,  veering  about,  the  two  parties  encamped  together 
for  the  night.  The  leaders,  of  course,  observed  a  due 
decorum,  but  some  of  the  subalterns  could  not  restrain 
their  chuckling  exultation,  boasting  that  they  would 
soon  plant  the  British  standard  on  the  walls  of  Astoria, 
and  drive  the  Americans  out  of  the  country. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  had  a 
secret  conference  with  Mr.  Clarke,  in  which  they  agreed 
to  set  off  privately,  before  daylight,  and  get  down  in 
time  to  apprise  M'Dougal  of  the  approach  of  these 
Northwesters.  The  latter,  however,  were  completely 
on  the  alert;  just  as  M'Kenzie's  canoes  were  about  to 
push  off,  they  were  joined  by  a  couple  from  the  North- 
west squadron,  in  which  was  M'Tavish,  with  two 
clerks,  and  eleven  men.  With  these,  he  intended  to 
push  forward  and  make  arrangements,  leaving  the  rest 
of  the  convoy,  in  which  was  a  large  quantity  of  furs^ 
to  await  his  orders. 

The  two  parties  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  7th  of 
October.  The  Northwesters  encamped  under  the  guns 
of  the  fort,  and  displayed  the  British  colors.     The 


ASTORIA 


455 


cent  con- 
ies, when 
r  merrily 
•smen,  as 

ash,  who 
sr  of  the 
erks,  and 
They  had 
)dd  being 
1  to  await 
.rke  came 
;  brought 
M'Kenzie 
3  Astoria, 
1  together 
ved  a  due 
it  restrain 
ey  would 
Astoria, 

:ie  had  a 

;y  agreed 

down  in 

of  these 

)mpletely 

about  to 

le  North- 

Ivith   two 

lended  to 

the  rest 

of  fursj 

le  7th  of 

[the  guns 

-s.     The 


young  men  in  the  fort,  natives  of  the  United  States, 
were  on  the  point  of  hoisting  the  American  flag,  but 
were  forbidden  by  Mr.  M'Dougal.  They  were  aston- 
ished at  such  a  prohibition,  and  were  exceedingly  galled 
by  the  tone  and  manner  assumed  by  the  clerks  and  re- 
tainers of  the  Northwest  Company,  who  ruffled  about 
in  that  swelling  and  braggart  style  which  grows  up 
among  these  heroes  of  the  wilderness;  they,  in  fact, 
considered  themselves  lords  of  the  ascendant,  and  re- 
garded the  hampered  and  harassed  Astorians  as  a  con- 
quered people. 

On  the  following  day  M'Dougal  convened  the  clerks, 
and  read  to  them  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  his  uncle, 
Mr.  Angus  Shaw,  one  of  the  principal  partners  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  announcing  the  coming  of  the 
Phoebe  and  Isaac  Todd,  *'  to  take  and  destroy  every- 
thing American  on  the  northwest  coast." 

This  intelligence  was  received  without  dismay  by 
ciich  of  the  clerks  as  were  natives  of  the  United  States. 
They  had  felt  indignant  at  seeing  their  national  flag 
struck  by  a  Canadian  commander,  and  the  British  flag 
flowed,  as  it  were,  in  their  faces.  They  had  been  stung 
to  the  quick,  also,  by  the  vaunting  airs  assumed  by  the 
Northwesters.  In  this  mood  of  mind,  they  would  will- 
ingly have  nailed  their  colors  to  the  staff,  and  defied 
the  frigate.  She  could  not  come  within  many  miles 
of  the  fort,  they  observed,  and  any  boats  she  might 
send  could  be  destroyed  by  their  cannon. 

There  were  cooler  and  more  calculating  spirits,  how- 
ever, who  had  the  control  of  affairs,  and  felt  nothing 
of  the  patriotic  pride  and  indignation  of  these  youths. 
The  extract  of  the  letter  had,  apparently,  been  read  by 
M'Dougal,  merely  to  prepare  the  way  for  a  precon- 
certed stroke  of  management.  On  the  same  day  Mr. 
M'Tavish  proposed  to  purchase  the  whole  stock  of 
goods  and  furs  belonging  to  the  company,  both  at 
Astoria  and  in  the  interior,  at  cost  and  charges.    Mr. 


'.t 


,'  }■ 


I: 


M 


456 


ASTORIA 


'fSK 


II'" 


■wy 


M'Dougal  undertook  to  comply;  assuming  the  whole 
management  of  the  negotiation  in  virtue  of  the  power 
vested  in  him,  in  case  of  the  non-arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt. 
That  power,  however,  was  limited  and  specific,  and  did 
not  extend  to  an  operation  of  this  nature  and  extent; 
no  objection,  however,  was  made  to  his  assumption, 
and  he  and  M'Tavish  soon  made  a  preliminary  arrange- 
ment, perfectly  satisfactory  to  the  latter. 

Mr.  Stuart,  and  the  reserve  party  of  Northwesters, 
arrived  shortly  afterwards,  and  encamped  with  M'Tav- 
ish. The  former  exclaimed  loudly  against  the  terms 
of  the  arrangement,  and  insisted  upon  a  reduction 
of  the  prices.  New  negotiations  had  now  to  be  en- 
tered into.  The  demands  of  the  Northwesters  were 
made  in  a  peremptory  tone,  and  they  seemed  disposed 
to  dictate  like  conquerors.  The  Americans  looked  on 
with  indignation  and  impatience.  They  considered 
M'Dougal  as  acting,  if  not  a  perfidious,  certainly  a 
craven  part.  He  was  continually  repairing  to  the  camp 
to  negotiate,  instead  of  keeping  within  his  walls  and 
receiving  overtures  in  his  fortress.  His  case,  they 
observed,  was  not  so  desperate  as  to  excuse  such 
crouching.  He  might,  in  fact,  hold  out  for  his  own 
terms.  The  Northwest  party  had  lost  their  ammuni- 
tion ;  they  had  no  goods  to  trade  with  the  natives  for 
provisions;  and  they  were  so  destitute  that  M'Dougal 
had  absolutely  to  feed  them,  while  he  negotiated  with 
them.  He,  on  the  contrary,  was  well  lodged  and 
victualled;  had  sixty  men,  with  arms,  ammunition, 
boats,  and  everything  requisite  either  for  defence  or 
retreat.  The  party,  beneath  the  guns  of  his  fort,  were 
at  his  mercy;  should  an  enemy  appear  in  the  offing, 
he  could  pack  up  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  property 
and  retire  to  some  place  of  concealment,  or  make  off 
for  the  interior. 

These  considerations,  however,  had  no  weight  with 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  or  were  overruled  by  other  motives. 


!'.   ! 


ASTORIA 


457 


tie  whole 
tie  power 
[r.  Hunt. 
,  and  did 
d  extent; 
iiimption, 
arrange- 

hwesters, 
h  M'Tav- 
the  terms 
reduction 
to  be  en- 
ters were 
I  disposed 
looked  on 
:onsidered 
ertainly  a 
the  camp 
walls  and 
ase,   they 
use   such 
his  own 
animuni- 
atives  for 
VI'Dougal 
ated  with 
Iged   and 
munition, 
efence  or 
ort,  were 
tie  offing, 
property 
make  off 

light  with 
motives. 


The  terms  of  sale  were  lowered  by  him  to  the  standard 
fixed  by  Mr.  Stuart,  and  an  agreement  executed  on  the 
1 6th  of  October,  by  which  the  furs  and  merchandise 
of  all  kinds  in  the  country,  belonging  to  Mr.  Astor, 
passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Northwest  Company 
at  about  a  third  of  their  real  value.^  A  safe  passage 
through  the  Northwest  posts  was  guaranteed  to  such 
as  did  not  choose  to  enter  into  the  service  of  that  Com- 
pany, and  the  amount  of  wages  due  to  them  was  to  be 
deducted  from  the  price  paid  for  Astoria. 

The  conduct  and  motives  of  Mr.  M'Dougal,  through- 
out the  whole  of  this  proceeding,  have  been  strongly 
questioned  by  the  other  partners.  He  has  been  accused 
of  availing  himself  of  a  wrong  construction  of  powers 
vested  in  him  at  his  own  request,  and  of  sacrificing 
the  interests  of  Mr.  Astor  to  the  Northwest  Company, 
under  the  promise  or  hope  of  advantage  to  himself. 

He  always  insisted,  however,  that  he  made  the  best 
bargain  for  Mr.  Astor  that  circumstances  would 
permit;    the  frigate  being  hourly  expected,  in  which 

'  Not  quite  $40,000  were  allowed  for  furs  worth  upwards  of 
$100,000.  Beaver  was  valued  at  two  dollars  per  skin,  though 
worth  five  dollars.  Land  otter  at  fifty  cents,  though  worth  five 
dollars.  Sea-otter  at  twelve  dollars,  worth  from  forty-five  to 
sixty  dollars;  and  for  several  kinds  of  furs  nothing  was  allowed. 
Moreover,  the  goods  and  merchandise  for  the  Tndian  trade  ought 
to  have  brought  three  times  the  amount  for  which  they  were  sold. 

Th  >  following  estimate  ha?  been  made  of  the  articles  on  hand, 
and  t  le  prices:  — 

17,705  lbs.  beaver  parchment,  valued  at  $2.00  worth      $  5.00 


465  old  coat  beaver 
907  land  otter  ..... 

68  sea-otter 

30     "      "•     

Nothing  was  allowed  for 

179  mink  skins,  worth  each 

22  raccoon 

28  lynx 

18  fox 

106    " 

71  black  bear 

16  grizzly  bear 


1.66 

•50 

12.00 

5-00 


350 

5.00 

45  to  60.00 

25.00 


.40 
.40 
2.00 
1. 00 
1.50 
4.06 
10.00 


■;  ■:■ 


458 


ASTORIA 


i  I, 
i4^ 


ImH  'i 


case  the  whole  property  of  that  gentleman  would  be 
liable  to  capture.  That  the  return  of  Mr.  Hunt  was 
problematical ;  the  frigate  intending  to  cruise  along  the 
coast  for  two  years,  and  clear  it  of  all  American  ves- 
sels. He  moreover  averred,  and  M'Tavish  corrobo- 
rated his  averment  by  certificate,  that  he  proposed  an 
arrangement  to  that  gentleman,  by  which  the  furs  were 
to  be  sent  to  Canton,  and  sold  there  at  Mr.  Astor's  risk, 
and  for  his  account;  but  the  proposition  was  not  ac- 
ceded to. 

Notwithstanding  all  his  representations,  several  of 
the  persons  present  at  the  transaction,  and  acquainted 
with  the  whole  course  of  the  affair,  and  among  the 
number  Mr.  M'Kenzie  himself,  his  occasional  coad- 
jutor, remained  firm  in  the  belief  that  he  had  acted  a 
hollow  part.  Neither  did  he  succeed  in  exculpating 
himself  to  Mr.  Astor;  that  gentleman  declaring,  in  a 
letter  written  some  time  afterwards,  to  Mr.  Hunt,  that 
he  considered  the  property  virtually  given  away.  "  Had 
our  place  and  our  property,"  he  adds,  "  been  fairly 
captured,  I  should  have  preferred  it ;  I  should  not  feel 
as  if  I  were  disgraced." 

All  these  may  be  unmerited  suspicions;  but  it  cer- 
tainly is  a  circumstance  strongly  corroborative  of  them, 
that  Mr.  M'Dougal,  shortly  after  concluding  this  agree- 
ment, became  a  member  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  received  a  share  productive  of  a  handsome  income. 


CHAPTER   LX 


It    ' 


On  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  November,  a  sail  was 
descried  doubling  Cape  Disappointment.  It  came  to 
anchor  in  Baker's  Bay,  and  proved  to  be  a  ship  of  war. 
Of  what  nation?  was  now  the  anxious  inquiry.  If 
English,  why  did  it  come  alone?  where  was  the  mer- 
chant vessel  that  was  to  have  accompanied  it?     If 


an  would  be 
r.  Hunt  was 
lise  along  the 
merican  ves- 
nsh  corrobo- 

proposed  an 

:he  furs  were 

Astor's  risk, 

was  not  ac- 

s,  several  of 
d  acquainted 
1  among  the 
isional  coad- 
had  acted  a 
exculpating 
jclaring,  in  a 
r.  Hunt,  that 
Lway.  "  Had 
"  been  fairly 
ould  not  feel 

;  but  it  cer- 
tive  of  them, 
ig  this  agree- 
:st  Company, 
some  income. 


ASTORIA 


459 


:r,  a  sail  was 
It  came  to 

ship  of  war. 

inquiry.  If 
*vas  the  mer- 
nied   it?     If 


American,  what  was  to  become  of  the  newly  acquired 
possession  of  the  Northwest  Company? 

In-  this  dilemma,  MTavish,  in  all  haste,  loaded  two 
barges  with  all  the  packages  of  furs  bearing  the  mark 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  and  made  off  for  Tongue 
Point,  three  miles  up  the  river.  There  he  was  to  await 
a  preconcerted  signal  from  M'Dougal,  on  ascertaining 
the  character  of  the  ship.  If  it  should  prove  American, 
M'Tavish  would  have  a  fair  start,  and  could  bear  off 
his  rich  cargo  to  the  interior.  It  is  singular  that  this 
prompt  mode  of  conveying  valuable,  but  easily  trans- 
portable effects  beyond  the  reach  of  a  hostile  ship  should 
not  have  suggested  itself  while  the  property  belonged  to 
Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  meantime,  M'Dougal,  who  still  remained 
nominal  chief  at  the  fort,  launched  a  canoe,  manned 
by  men  recently  in  the  employ  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  and  steered  for  the  ship.  On  the  way,  he 
instructed  his  men  to  pass  themselves  for  Americans 
or  Englishmen,  according  to  the  exigencies  of  the  case. 

The  vessel  proved  to  be  the  British  sloop  of  war 
Raccoon,  of  twenty-six  guns,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty  men,  commanded  by  Captain  Black.  Accord- 
ing to  the  account  of  that  officer,  the  frigate  Phoebe, 
and  the  two  sloops  of  war  Cherub  and  Raccoon,  had 
sailed  in  convoy  of  the  Isaac  Todd  from  Rio  Janeiro. 
On  board  of  the  Phoebe,  Mr.  John  M'Donald,  a  partner 
of  the  Northwest  Company,  embarked  as  passenger, 
to  profit  by  the  anticipated  catastrophe  at  Astoria.  The 
convoy  was  separated  by  stress  of  weather  off  Cape 
Horn.  The  three  ships  of  war  came  together  again 
at  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez,  their  appointed  rendez- 
vous, but  waited  in  vain  for  the  Isaac  Todd. 

In  the  meantime,  intelligence  was  received  of  the 
mischief  that  Commodore  Porter  was  doing  among  the 
British  whale  ships.  Commodore  Hillyer  immediately 
set  sail  in  quest  of  him,  with  the  Phoebe  and  the  Cherub, 


460 


ASTORIA 


h    m 


M*|i 


transferring  Mr.  M'Donald  to  the  Raccoon,  and  order- 
ing that  vessel  to  proceed  to  the  Columbia. 

The  officers  of  the  Raccoon  were  in  high  spirits.  Tlie 
agents  of  the  Northwest  Company,  in  instigating  the 
expedition,  had  talked  of  immense  booty  to  be  made 
by  the  fortunate  captors  of  Astoria.  Mr.  M'Donald 
had  kept  up  the  excitement  during  the  voyage,  so  that 
not  a  midshipman  but  revelled  in  dreams  of  ample 
prize-money,  nor  a  lieutenant  that  would  have  sold  his 
chance  for  a  thousand  pounds.  Their  disappointment, 
therefore,  may  easily  be  conceived,  when  they  learned 
that  their  warlike  attack  upon  Astoria  had  been  fore- 
stalled by  a  snug  commercial  arrangement;  that  their 
anticipated  booty  had  become  British  property  in  the 
regular  course  of  traffic,  and  that  all  this  had  been 
effected  by  the  very  Company  which  had  been  instru- 
mental in  getting  them  sent  on  what  they  now  stigma- 
tized as  a  fool's  errand.  They  felt  as  if  they  had  been 
duped  and  made  tools  of,  by  a  set  of  shrewd  men  of 
traffic,  who  had  employed  them  to  crack  the  nut,  while 
they  carried  off  the  kernel.  In  a  word,  M'Dougal 
found  himself  so  ungraciously  received  by  his  country- 
men on  board  of  the  ship,  that  he  was  glad  to  cut  short 
his  visit,  and  return  to  shore.  He  was  busy  at  the  fort, 
making  preparations  for  the  reception  of  the  captain 
of  the  Raccoon,  when  his  one-eyed  Indian  father-in- 
law  made  his  appearance,  with  a  train  of  Chinook 
warriors,  all  painted  and  equipped  in  warlike  style. 

Old  Comcomly  had  beheld,  with  dismay,  the  arrival 
of  a  "  big  war  canoe  "  displaying  the  British  flag.  The 
shrewd  old  savage  had  become  something  of  a  poli- 
tician in  the  course  of  his  daily  visits  at  the  fort.  He 
knew  of  the  war  existing  between  the  nations,  but 
knew  nothing  of  the  arrangement  between  M'Dougal 
and  M'Tavish.  He  trembled,  therefore,  for  the  power 
of  his  white  son-in-law,  and  the  new-fledged  grandeur 
of  his  daughter,  and  assembled  his  warriors  in  all  haste. 


ASTORIA 


461 


"  King  George,"  said  he,  "  has  sent  his  great  canoe  to 
destroy  the  fort,  and  make  slaves  of  all  the  inhabitants. 
Shall  we  suffer  it?  The  Americans  are  the  first  white 
men  that  have  fixed  themselves  in  the  land.  They 
have  treated  us  like  brothers.  Their  great  chief  has 
taken  my  daughter  to  be  his  squaw :  we  are,  therefore, 
as  one  people." 

His  warriors  all  determined  to  stand  by  the  Ameri- 
cans to  the  last,  and  to  this  effect  they  came  painted 
and  armed  for  battle.  Comcomly  made  a  spirited  war- 
speech  to  his  son-in-law.  He  offered  to  kill  every  one 
of  King  George's  men  that  should  attempt  to  land. 
It  was  an  easy  matter.  The  ship  could  not  approach 
within  six  miles  of  the  fort ;  the  crew  could  only  land 
in  boats.  The  woods  reached  to  the  water's  edge;  in 
these,  he  and  his  warriors  would  conceal  themselves, 
and  shoot  down  the  enemy  as  fast  as  they  put  foot  on 
shore. 

M'Dougal  was,  doubtless,  properly  sensible  of  this 
parental  devotion  on  the  part  of  his  savage  father-in- 
law,  and  perhaps  a  little  rebuked  by  the  game  spirit,  so 
opposite  to  his  own.  He  assured  Comcomly,  however, 
that  his  solicitude  for  the  safety  of  himself  and  the 
princess  was  superfluous ;  as,  though  the  ship  belonged 
to  King  George,  her  crew  would  not  injure  the  Ameri- 
cans, or  their  Indian  allies.  He  advised  him  and  his 
warriors,  therefore,  to  lay  aside  their  weapons  and  war 
shirts,  wash  off  the  paint  from  their  faces  and  bodies, 
and  appear  like  clean  and  civil  savages,  to  receive  the 
strangers  courteously. 

Comcomly  was  sorely  puzzled  at  this  advice,  which 
accorded  so  little  with  his  Indian  notions  of  receiving 
a  hostile  nation,  and  it  was  only  after  repeated  and 
positive  assurances  of  the  amicable  intentions  of  the 
strangers  that  he  was  induced  to  lower  his  fighting  tone. 
He  said  something  to  his  warriors  explanatory  of  this 
singular  posture  of  affairs,  and  in  vindication,  perhaps, 


it  i 


462 


ASTORIA 


? 


I"  'P 


'A'  A 


of  the  pacific  temper  of  his  son-in-law.  Tliey  all  gave 
a  shrug  and  an  Indian  grunt  of  acquiescence,  and  went 
off  sulkily  to  their  village,  to  lay  aside  their  weapons 
for  the  present. 

The  proper  arrangements  being  made  for  the  recep- 
tion of  Captain  Black,  that  officer  caused  his  ship's 
boats  to  be  manned,  and  landed  with  befitting  state  at 
Astoria.  From  the  talk  that  had  been  made  by  the 
Northwest  Company  of  the  strength  of  the  place,  and 
the  armament  they  had  required  to  assist  in  its  reduc- 
tion, he  expected  to  find  a  fortress  of  some  importance. 
When  he  beheld  nothing  but  stockades  and  bastions, 
calculated  for  defence  against  naked  savages,  he  felt 
an  emotion  of  indignant  surprise,  mingled  with  some- 
thing of  the  ludicrous.  "  Is  this  the  fort,"  cried  he, 
"  about  which  I  have  heard  so  much  talking?  D — n 
me,  but  I  'd  batter  it  down  in  two  hours  with  a  four 
pounder! " 

When  he  learned,  however,  the  amount  of  rich  furs 
that  had  been  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Northwesters, 
he  was  outrageous,  and  insisted  that  an  inventory 
should  be  taken  of  all  the  property  purchased  of  the 
Americans,  "  with  a  view  to  ulterior  measures  in  Eng- 
land, for  the  recovery  of  the  value  from  the  Northwest 
Company." 

As  he  grew  cool,  however,  he  gave  over  all  idea  of 
preferring  such  a  claim,  and  reconciled  himself,  as  well 
as  he  could,  to  the  idea  of  having  been  forestalled  by 
his  bargaining  coadjutors. 

On  the  1 2th  of  December,  the  fate  of  Astoria  was 
consummated  by  a  regular  ceremonial.  Captain  Black, 
attended  by  his  officers,  entered  the  fort,  caused  the 
British  standard  ^o  be  erected,  broke  a  bottle  of  wine, 
and  declared,  in  a  loud  voice,  that  he  took  possession  of 
the  establishment  and  of  the  country,  in  the  name  of 
his  Britannic  Majesty,  changing  the  name  of  Astoria 
to  that  of  Fort  George. 


ASTORIA 


463 


y  all  gave 

and  went 

*  weapons 

the  recep- 
his  ship's 
g  state  at 
:le  by  the 
place,  and 
its  reduc- 
iportance. 
bastions, 
:s,  he  felt 
ith  some- 
cried  he, 
r?  D— n 
th  a  four 


The  Indian  warriors,  who  had  offered  their  services 
to  repel  the  strangers,  were  present  on  this  occasion. 
It  was  explained  to  them  as  being  a  friendly  arrange- 
ment and  transfer,  but  they  shook  their  heads  grimly, 
and  considered  it  an  act  of  subjugation  of  their  ancient 
allies.  They  regretted  that  they  had  complied  with 
M'Dougal's  wishes,  in  laying  aside  their  arms,  and 
remarked,  that,  however  the  Americans  might  con- 
ceal the  fact,  they  were  undoubtedly  all  slaves ;  nor 
could  they  be  persuaded  of  the  contrary,  until  they 
beheld  the  Raccoon  depart  without  taking  away  any 
prisoners. 

As  to  Comcomly,  he  no  longer  prided  himself  upon 
his  white  son-in-law,  but,  whenever  he  was  asked  about 
him,  shook  his  head,  and  replied,  that  his  daughter  had 
made  a  mistake,  and,  instead  of  getting  a  great  warrior 
for  a  husband,  had  married  herself  to  a  squaw. 


rich  furs 
Iiwesters, 
inventory 
id  of  the 
>  in  Eng- 
Forthwest 


1 


idea  of 
,  as  well 
ailed  by 


oria  was 
in  Black, 
used  the 
of  wine, 
sssion  of 
name  of 
Astoria 


CHAPTER  LXI 

Having  given  the  catastrophe  at  the  Fort  of  Astoria, 
it  remains  now  but  to  gather  up  a  few  loose  ends  of  this 
widely  excursive  narrative  and  conclude.  On  the  28th 
of  February  the  brig  Pedler  anchored  in  Columbia 
River.  It  will  be  recollected  that  Mr.  Hunt  had  pur- 
chased this  vessel  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  to  take  off 
the  furs  collected  at  the  factory,  and  to  restore  the 
Sandwich  Islanders  to  their  homes.  When  that  gentle- 
man learned,  however,  the  precipitate  and  summary 
manner  in  which  the  property  had  been  bargained 
away  by  M'Dougal,  he  expressed  his  indignation  in 
the  strongest  terms,  and  determined  to  make  an  effort 
to  get  back  the  furs.  As  soon  as  his  wishes  were  known 
in  this  respect,  M'Dougal  came  to  sound  him  on  be- 
half of  the  Northwest  Company,   intimating  that  he 


464 


ASTORIA 


£>     T* 


.U. 


,:<*   1 


¥ 


!■    f.    ' 


liad  no  doubt  the  peltries  might  be  repurchased  at  an 
advance  of  fifty  per  cent.  This  overture  was  not  cal- 
culated to  soothe  the  angry  feelings  of  Mr.  Hunt,  and 
his  indignation  was  complete,  when  he  discovered  that 
M'Dougal  had  become  a  partner  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  had  actually  been  so  since  the  23d  of 
December.  He  had  kept  his  partnership  a  secret, 
however;  had  retained  the  papers  of  the  Pacific  Fur 
Company  in  his  possession;  and  had  continued  to  act 
as  Mr.  Astor's  agent,  though  two  of  the  partners  of 
the  other  company,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  Mr.  Clarke, 
were  present.  He  had,  moreover,  divulged  to  his  new 
associates  all  that  he  knew  as  to  Mr.  Astor's  plans  and 
affairs,  and  had  made  copies  of  his  business  letters  for 
their  perusal. 

Mr.  Hunt  now  considered  the  whole  conduct  of 
M'Dougal  hollow  and  collusive.  His  only  thought  was, 
therefore,  to  get  all  the  papers  of  the  concern  out  of  his 
hands,  and  bring  the  business  to  a  close ;  for  the  inter- 
ests of  Mr.  Astor  were  yet  completely  at  stake;  the 
drafts  of  the  Northwest  Company  in  his  favor,  for  the 
purchase  money,  not  having  yet  been  obtained.  With 
some  difficulty  he  succeeded  in  getting  possession  of  the 
papers.  The  bills  or  drafts  were  delivered  without  hes- 
itation. The  latter  he  remitted  to  Mr.  Astor  by  some 
of  his  associates,  who  were  about  to  cross  the  conti- 
nent to  New  York.  This  done,  he  embarked  on  board 
the  Pedler,  on  the  3d  of  April,  accompanied  by  two 
of  the  clerks,  Mr.  Seton  and  Mr.  Halsey,  and  bade  a 
final  adieu  to  Astoria. 

The  next  day,  April  4th,  Messrs.  Clarke,  M'Kenzie, 
David  Stuart,  and  such  of  the  Astorians  as  had  not 
entered  into  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  set 
out  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is  not  our  inten- 
tion to  take  the  reader  another  journey  across  those 
rugged  barriers;  but  we  will  step  forward  with  the 
travellers  to  a  distance  on  their  way,  merely  to  relate 


ASTORIA 


465 


their  interview  with  a  character  already  noted  in  this 
work. 

As  the  party  were  proceeding-  up  the  Cohimbia,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Wallali- Wallah  River,  several  Indian 
canoes  put  off  from  the  shore  to  overtake  them,  and  a 
voice  called  upon  them  in  French  and  requested  them 
to  stop.  They  accordingly  put  to  shore,  and  were 
joined  by  those  in  the  canoes.  To  their  surprise,  they 
recognized  in  the  person  who  had  hailed  them  the  In- 
dian wife  of  Pierre  Dorion,  accompanied  by  her  two 
children.  She  had  a  story  to  tell,  involving  the  fate 
of  several  of  our  unfortunate  adventurers. 

Mr.  John  Reed,  the  Hibernian,  it  will  be  remembered, 
had  been  detached  during-  the  summer  to  the  Snake 
River.  His  party  consisted  of  four  Canadians,  Giles 
Le  Clerc,  Frangois  Landry,  Jean  Baptiste  Turcot,  and 
Andre  La  Chapelle,  together  with  two  hunters,  Pierre 
Dorion  and  Pierre  Delaunay;  Dorion,  as  usual,  being 
accompanied  by  his  wife  and  children.  The  objects 
of  this  expedition  were  twofold ;  to  trap  beaver,  and 
to  search  for  the  three  hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback,  and* 
Rezner. 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn.  Reed  lost  one  man, 
Landry,  by  death ;  another  one,  Pierre  Delaunay,  who 
was  of  a  sullen,  perverse  disposition,  left  him  in  a 
moody  fit,  and  was  never  heard  of  afterwards.  The 
number  of  his  party  was  not,  however,  reduced  by 
these  losses,  as  the  three  hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback, 
and  Rezner,  had  joined  it. 

Reed  now  built  a  house  on  the  Snake  River,  for  their 
winter  quarters;  which  being  completed,  the  party  set 
about  trapping.  Rezner,  Le  Clerc,  and  Pierre  Dorion, 
went  about  five  days'  journey  from  the  wintering  house, 
to  a  part  of  the  country  well  stocked  with  beaver. 
Here  they  put  up  a  hut,  and  proceeded  to  trap  with 
great  success.  While  the  men  were  out  hunting,  Pierre 
Dorion's  wife  remained  at  home  to  dress  the  skins  and 

30 


466 


ASTORIA 


u» 


flPrt 


•  m 


prepare  the  meals.  She  was  tliiis  employed  one  even- 
ing ahout  tlie  hcji^inning-  of  January,  cooking  the  sup- 
per of  the  hunters,  when  she  heard  footsteps,  and  Le 
Clerc  staggered,  pale  and  bleeding,  into  the  hut.  He 
informed  her  that  a  party  of  savages  had  surprised 
them,  while  at  tlieir  traps,  and  had  killed  Rezner  and 
her  husband.  He  had  barely  strength  left  to  give  this 
information,  when  he  sank  upon  the  ground. 

The  poor  woman  saw  that  the  only  chance  for  life 
was  instant  flight,  but,  in  this  exigency,  showed  that 
presence  of  mind  and  force  of  character  for  which  she 
had  frequently  been  noted.  With  great  difficulty,  she 
caught  two  of  the  horses  Ijelonging  to  the  party.  Then 
collecting  her  clothes  and  a  small  quantity  of  beaver 
meat  and  dried  salmon,  she  packed  them  upon  one  of 
the  horses,  and  helped  the  wounded  man  to  mount  upon 
it.  On  the  other  horse  she  mounted  with  her  two  chil- 
dren, and  hurried  away  from  this  dangerous  neighbor- 
hood, directing  her  flight  to  Mr.  Reed's  establishment. 
On  the  third  day,  she  descried  a  number  of  Indians 
on  horseback  proceeding  in  an  easterly  direction.  She 
immediately  dismounted  with  her  children,  and  helped 
Le  Clerc  likewise  to  dismount,  and  all  concealed  them- 
selves. Fortunately  they  escaped  the  sharp  eyes  of 
the  savages,  but  had  to  proceed  with  the  utmost  cau- 
tion. That  night  they  slept  without  fire  or  water;  she 
managed  to  keep  her  children  warm  in  her  arms;  but 
before  morning  poor  Le  Clerc  died. 

With  the  daw'n  of  day  the  resolute  woman  resumed 
her  course,  and,  on  the  fourth  day,  reached  the  house 
of  Mr.  Reed.  It  was  deserted,  and  all  round  were 
marks  of  blood  and  signs  of  a  furious  massacre.  Not 
doubting  that  Mr.  Reed  and  his  party  had  all  fallen 
victims,  she  turned  in  fresh  horror  from  the  spot.  For 
two  days  she  continued  hurrying  forward,  ready  to 
sink  for  want  of  food,  but  more  solicitous  about  her 
children  than  herself.    At  length  she  reached  a  range 


ASTORIA 


467 


of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  upper  part  of  the 
Wallah  Walluh  iviver.  Here  she  chose  a  wild  lonely 
ravine,  as  lier  place  of  winter  refuge. 

Shr  had  fortunately  a  buffalo  robe  and  three  deer- 
skins; of  these,  and  of  pine  bark  and  cedar  branches, 
she  constructed  a  rude  wigwam,  which  she  pitched 
beside  a  mountain  spring.  1  laving  no  other  food,  she 
killed  the  two  horses,  and  smoked  their  flesh.  The 
skins  aided  to  cover  her  hut.  Here  she  dragged  out 
the  winter,  with  no  other  company  than  her  two  chil- 
dren. Towards  the  middle  of  March,  her  provisions 
were  nearly  exhausted.  She  therefore  packed  up  the 
remainder,  slung  it  on  her  back,  and,  with  her  helpless 
little  ones,  set  out  again  on  her  wanderings.  Crossing 
the  ridge  of  mountains,  she  descended  to  the  banks  of 
the  Wallah-Wallah,  and  kept  along  them  until  she  ar- 
rived where  that  river  throws  itself  into  the  Columbia. 
She  was  hospitably  received  and  entertained  by  the 
Wallah- Wallahs,  and  had  been  nearly  two  weeks  among 
them  when  the  two  canoes  passed. 

On  being  interrogated,  she  could  assign  no  reason 
for  this  murderous  attack  of  the  savages;  it  appeared 
to  be  perfectly  wanton  and  unprovoked.  Some  of  the 
Astorians  supposed  it  an  act  of  butchery  by  a  roving 
band  of  Blackfeet;  others,  however,  and  with  greater 
probability  of  correctness,  have  ascribed  it  to  the  tribe 
of  Pierced-nose  Indians,  in  revenge  for  the  death  of 
their  comrade  hanged  by  order  of  Mr.  Clarke.  If  so, 
it  shows  that  these  sudden  and  apparently  wanton  out- 
breakings  of  sanguinary  violence  on  the  part  of  the 
savages,  have  often  some  previous,  though  perhaps 
remote,  provocation.        ■'■■' 

.  The  narrative  of  the  Indian  woman  closes  the 
checkered  adventures  of  some  of  the  personages  of 
this  motley  story ;  such  as  the  honest  Hibernian  Reed, 
and  Dorion  the  hybrid  interpreter.  Turcot  and  La 
Chapelle  were  two  of  the  men  who  fell  off  from  Mr. 


w  ^ 


.».ri 


468 


ASTORIA 


Crooks  in  the  course  of  his  wintry  journey,  and  had 
subsequently  such  di  \strous  times  among  the  In- 
dians. We  cannot  but  feel  some  sympathy  with  that 
persevering  trio  of  Kentuckians,  Robinson,  Rezner, 
and  Hoback;  who  twice  turned  back  when  on  their 
way  homeward,  and  lingered  in  the  wilderness  to  perish 
by  the  hands  of  savages. 

The  return  parties  from  Astoria,  both  by  sea  and 
land,  experienced  on  the  way  as  many  adventures,  vicis- 
situdes, and  mishaps,  as  the  far-famed  heroes  of  the 
Odyssey;  they  reached  their  destination  at  different 
times,  bearing  tidings  to  Mr.  Astor  of  the  unfortunate 
termination  of  his  enterprise. 

That  gentleman,  however,  was  not  disposed,  even 
yet,  to  give  the  matter  up  as  lost.  On  the  contrary, 
his  spirit  was  reused  by  what  he  considered  ungener- 
ous and  unmerited  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  North- 
west Company.  **  After  their  treatment  of  me,"  said 
he,  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Hunt,  *'  I  have  no  idea  of  re- 
maining quiet  and  idle."  He  detemiined,  therefore, 
as  soon  as  circumstances  would  permit,  to  resume  his 
enterprise. 

At  the  leturn  of  peace,  Astoria,  w^ith  the  adjacent 
country,  reverted  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty 
of  Ghent,  on  the  principle  of  status  ante  bcllum,  and 
Captain  Biddle  was  dispatched  in  the  sloop  of  war 
Ontario,  to  take  formal  possession. 

In  the  winter  of  181 5,  a  law  was  passed  by  Con- 
gress prohibiting  all  traffic  of  British  traders  within 
the  territories  of  the  United  States. 

The  favorable  moment  seemed  now  to  Mr.  Astor 
to  have  arrived  for  the  revival  of  his  favorite  enter- 
prise, but  new  difficulties  had  grown  up  to  impede  it. 
The  .Northwest  Company  were  now  in  complete  occu- 
pation of  the  Columbia  River,  and  its  chief  tributary 
streams,  holding  the  posts  which  he  had  established, 
and  carrying  on  a  trade  throughout  the  neighboring 


ASTORIA 


469 


and  had 
the    In- 

ivith  that 
Rezner, 

on  their 

to  perish 

sea  and 

res,  vicis- 

is  of  the 

different 

fortunate 

;ed,  even 
contrary, 
ungener- 
e  North- 
ne,"  said 
ba  of  re- 
herefore, 
sume  his 

adjacent 
le  treaty 
II 111,  and 
of  war 

by  Con- 
s  within 

r.  Astor 
e  enter- 
ipede  it. 
te  occu- 
ributary 
iblished, 
hboring 


region,  in  defiance  of  the  prohibitory  law  of  Con- 
gress, which,  in  effect,  was  a  dead  letter  beyond  the 
mountains. 

To  dispossess  them,  would  be  an  undertaking  of 
almost  a  belligerent  nature;  for  tb.eir  agents  and  re- 
tainers were  well  armed,  and  skilled  in  the  use  of 
weapons,  as  is  usual  with  Indian  traders.  The  ferocious 
and  bloody  contests  which  had  taken  place  between 
the  rival  trading  parties  of  the  Northwest  and  Hud- 
son's Bay  Companies,  had  shown  what  might  be  ex- 
pected from  commercial  feuds  in  the  lawless  depths  of 
the  wilderness.  Mr.  Astor  did  not  think  it  advisable, 
therefore,  to  attempt  the  matter  without  the  protection 
of  the  American  flag;  under  which  his  people  might 
rally  in  case  of  need.  He  accordingly  made  an  in- 
formal overture  to  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
Mr.  Madison,  through  Mr.  Gallatin,  offering  to  renew 
his  enterprise,  and  to  reestablish  Astoria,  provided  it 
would  be  protected  by  the  American  flag,  and  made  a 
military  post;  stating  that  the  whole  force  required 
would  not  exceed  a  lieutenant's  command. 

The  application,  approved  and  recommended  by  Mr. 
Gallatin,  one  of  the  most  enlightened  statesmen  of  our 
country,  was  favorably  received,  but  no  step  was 
taken  in  consequence;  the  President  not  being  dis- 
posed, in  all  probability,  to  commit  himself  by  any 
direct  countenance  or  overt  act.  Discouraged  by  this 
supineness  on  the  part  of  the  government,  Mr.  Astor 
did  not  think  fit  to  renew  his  overtures  in  a  more  for- 
mal manner,  and  the  favorable  moment  for  the  re- 
occupation  of  Astoria  was  suffered  to  pass  unimproved. 

The  British  trading  establishments  were  thus  en- 
abled, without  molestation,  to  strike  deep  their  roots, 
and  extend  their  ramifications,  in  despite  of  the  prohi- 
bition of  Congress,  until  they  had  spread  themselves 
over  the  rich  field  of  enterprise  opened  by  Mr.  Astor. 
The  British  government  soon  began  to  perceive  the  im- 


470 


ASTORIA 


f: 


I-.' 


ifi 


portance  of  this  region,  and  to  desire  to  include  it 
within  their  territorial  domains.  A  question  has  con- 
sequently risen  as  to  the  right  to  the  soil,  and  has  be- 
come one  of  the  most  perplexing  now  open  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  In  the  first 
treaty  relative  to  it,  under  date  of  October  20th,  1818, 
the  question  was  left  unsettled,  and  it  was  agreed  that 
the  country  on  the  northwest  coast  of  America,  west- 
ward of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  claimed  by  either  na- 
tion, should  be  open  to  the  inhabitants  of  both  for  ten 
years,  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  with  the  equal  right 
of  navigating  all  its  rivers.  When  these  ten  years 
had  expired,  a  subsequent  treaty,  in  1828,  extended 
the  arrangement  to  ten  additional  years.  So  the  matter 
stands  at  present. 

On  casting  back  our  eyes  over  the  series  of  events 
we  have  recorded,  we  see  no  reason  to  attribute  the 
failure  of  this  great  commercial  undertaking  to  any 
fault  in  the  scheme,  or  omission  in  the  execution  of  it, 
on  the  part  of  the  projector.  It  was  a  magnificent  en- 
terprise ;  well  concerted  and  carried  on,  without  re- 
gard to  difficulties  or  expense.  A  succession  of  adverse 
circumstances  and  cross-purposes,  however,  beset  it 
almost  from  the  outset ;  some  of  them,  in  fact,  arising 
from  neglect  of  the  orders  and  instructions  of  Mr. 
Astor.  The  first  crippling  blow  was  the  loss  of  the 
Tonquin,  which  clearly  would  not  have  happened,  had 
Mr.  Astor's  earnest  injunctions  with  regard  to  the  na- 
tives been  attended  to.  Had  this  ship  performed  her 
voyage  prosperously,  and  revisited  Astoria  in  due 
time,  the  trade  of  the  establishment  would  have  taken 
its  preconcerted  course,  and  the  spirits  of  all  con- 
cerned been  kept  up  by  a  confident  prospect  of  success. 
Her  dismal  catastrophe  struck  a  chill  into  ^^ery  heart, 
and  prepared  the  way  for  subsequent  despondency. 

Another  cause  of  embarrassment  and  loss  was  the 
departure  from  the  plan  of  Mr.  Astor,  as  to  the  voy- 


ASTORIA 


471 


icliide  it 
has  con- 
has  be- 
between 
the  first 
:h,  1818. 
eed  that 
:a,  west- 
ther  na- 
1  for  ten 
jal  right 
en  years 
extended 
le  matter 

)f  events 
ibute  the 
r  to  any 
^on  of  it, 
kent  en- 
hout  re- 
adverse 
beset   it 
,  arising 
of  Mr. 
s  of  the 
ed,  had 
the  na- 
med her 
in   due 
e  taken 
lall  con- 
success. 
y  heart, 
ncy. 

was  the 
he  voy- 


age of  the  Beaver,  subsequent  to  her  visiting  Astoria. 
The  variation  from  this  plan  produced  a  series  of  cross- 
purposes,  disastrous  to  the  estabUshment,  and  detained 
Mr.  Hunt  absent  from  his  post,  when  his  presence 
there  was  of  vital  importance  to  the  enterprise;  so 
essential  is  it  for  an  agent,  in  any  great  and  complicated 
undertaking,  to  execute  faithfully,  and  to  the  letter, 
the  part  marked  out  for  him  by  the  master  mind  which 
has  concerted  the  whole. 

The  breaking  out  of  the  war  between  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain,  multiplied  the  hazards'  and 
embarrassments  of  the  enterprise.  The  disappoint- 
ment as  to  convoy,  rendered  it  difficult  to  keep  up  re- 
inforcements and  supplies;  and  the  loss  of  the  Lark 
added  to  the  tissue  of  misadventures. 

That  Mr.  Astor  battled  resolutely  against  every 
difficulty,  and  pursued  his  course  in  defiance  of  every 
loss,  has  been  sufficiently  shown.  Had  he  been  sec- 
onded by  suitable  agents,  and  properly  protected  by 
government,  the  ultimate  failure  of  his  plan  might  yet 
have  been  averted.  It  was  his  great  misfortune,  that 
his  agents  were  not  imbued  with  his  own  spirit.  Some 
had  not  capacity  sufficient  to  comprehend  the  real  na- 
ture and  extent  of  his  scheme;  others  were  alien  in 
feeling  and  interest,  and  had  been  brought  up  in  the 
service  of  a  rival  company.  Whatever  sympathies 
they  might  originally  have  had  with  him,  were  im- 
paired, if  not  destroyed,  by  the  war.  They  looked 
upon  his  cause  as  desperate,  and  only  considered  how 
they  might  make  interest  to  regain  a  situation  under 
their  former  employers.  The  absence  of  Mr.  Hunt, 
the  only  real  representative  of  Mr.  Astor,  at  the  time 
of  the  capitulation  with  the  Northwest  Company,  com- 
pleted the  series  of  cross-purposes.  Had  that  gentle- 
man been  present,  the  transfer,  in  all  probability, 
would  not  have  taken  place. 

It  is  painful,  at  all  times,  to  see  a  grand  and  bene- 


li-:r  -n- 


472 


ASTORIA 


ficial  stroke  of  genius  fail  of  its  aim :  but  we  regret 
the  failure  of  this  enterprise  in  a  national  point  of  view ; 
for,  had  it  been  crowned  with  success,  it  would  have 
redounded  greatly  to  the  advantage  and  extension  of 
our  commerce.  The  profits  drawn  from  the  country 
in  question  by  the  British  Fur  Company,  though  of 
ample  amount,  form  no  criterion  by  which  to  judge 
of  the  advantages  that  w'ould  have  arisen  had  it  been 
entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  citizens  of  the  United 
States.  That  company,  as  has  been  shown,  is  limited 
in  the  nature  and  scope  of  its  operations,  and  can 
make  but  little  use  of  the  maritime  facilities  held  out 
by  an  emporium  and  a  harbor  on  that  coast.  In  our 
hands,  besides  the  roving  bands  of  trappers  and  trad- 
ers, the  country  would  have  been  explored  and  settled 
by  industrious  husbandmen;  and  the  fertile  valleys 
bordering  its  rivers,  and  shut  up  among  its  mountains, 
would  have  been  made  to  pour  forth  their  agricultural 
treasures  to  contribute  to  the  general  wealth. 

In  respect  to  commerce,  we  should  have  had  a  line 
of  trading  posts  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  forming  a  high  road 
from  the  great  regions  of  the  west  to  the  shores  of 
the  Pacific.  We  should  have  had  a  fortified  post  and 
port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  commanding  the 
trade  of  that  river  and  its  tributaries,  and  of  a  wide 
extent  of  country  and  sea-coast ;  carrying  on  an  active 
and  profitable  commerce  with  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  a  direct  and  frequent  communication  w^ith  China. 
In  a  word,  Astoria  might  have  realized  the  anticipa- 
tions of  Mr.  Astor,  so  well  understood  and  appreciated 
by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  gradually  becoming  a  commercial 
empire  beyond  the  mountains,  peopled  by  "  free  and 
independent  Americans,  and  linked  with  us  by  ties  of 
blood  and  interest." 

We  repeat,  therefore,  our  sincere  regret,  that  our 
government  should  have  neglected  the  overture  of  Mr. 


ASTORIA 


473 


e  regret 
of  view ; 
lid  have 
iision  of 
country 
ough  of 
to  judge 
1  it  been 
;  United 
s  limited 
and  can 
held  out 
In  our 
md  trad- 
id  settled 
e  valleys 
ountains, 
ricultural 

ad  a  line 
Missouri 
gh   road 
lores  of 
DOst  and 
iding  the 
a  wide 
an  active 
Islands, 
China, 
anticipa- 
Dreciated 
nmercial 
free  and 
>y  ties  of 

that  our 
•e  of  Mr. 


h 


Astor,  and  suffered  the  moment  to  pass  by,  when  full 
possession  of  this  region  might  have  been  taken 
quietly,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  a  military  post  es- 
tablished, without  dispute,  at  Astoria.  Our  statesmen 
have  become  sensible,  when  too  late,  of  the  impor- 
tance of  this  measure.  Bills  have  repeatedly  been 
brought  into  Congress  for  the  purpose,  but  without 
success;  and  our  rightful  possessions  on  that  coast, 
as  well  as  our  trade  on  the  Pacific,  have  no  rallying 
point  protected  by  the  national  flag,  and  by  a  military 
force. 

In  the  meantime,  the  second  period  of  ten  years  is 
fast  elapsing.  In  1838,  the  question  of  title  will  again 
come  up,  and  most  probably,  in  the  present  amicable 
state  of  our  relations  with  Great  Britain,  will  be  again 
postponed.  Every  year,  however,  the  litigated  claim 
is  growing  in  importance.  There  is  no  pride  so  jeal- 
ous and  irritable  as  the  pride  of  territory.  As  one 
wave  of  emigration  after  another  rolls  into  the  vast 
regions  of  the  west,  and  our  settlements  stretch  towards 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  eager  eyes  of  our  pioneers 
will  pry  beyond,  and  they  will  become  impatient  of 
any  barrier  or  impediment  in  the  way  of  what  they 
consider  a  grand  outlet  of  our  empire.  Should  any 
circumstance,  therefore,  unfortunately  occur  to  dis- 
turb the  present  harmony  of  the  two  nations,  this  ill- 
adjusted  question,  which  now  lies  dormant,  may  sud- 
denly start  up  into  one  of  belligerent  import,  and 
Astoria  become  the  watchword  in  a  contest  for  do- 
minion on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 


Since  the  above  was  written,  the  question  of  domin- 
ion over  the  vast  territory  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, which  for  a  time  threatened  to  disturb  the  peace- 
ful relations  with  our  transatlantic  kindred,  has  been 
finally  settled  in  a  spirit  of  mutual  concession,  and  the 


m'\ 


^ 


3f: 


474 


ASTORIA 


venerable  projector  whose  early  enterprise  forms  the 
subject  of  this  work  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing, 
ere  his  eyes  closed  upon  the  world,  that  the  flag  of  his 
country  again  waved  over  "  Astoria/' 


APPENDIX 

Draught  of  a  Petition  to  Congress,  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  in  1812 

To  the  honorable  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of 

the  United  States,  in  Congress  assembled, 
The  petition  of  the  American  Fur  Company  respectfully  showeth : 

That  the  trade  with  the  several  Indian  tribes  of  North  America, 
has,  for  many  years  past,  been  almost  exclusively  carried  on  by 
the  merchants  of  Canada;  who,  having  formed  powerful  and  ex- 
tensive associations  for  that  purpose,  being  aided  by  British  capi- 
tal, and  being  encouraged  by  the  favor  and  protection  of  the 
British  government,  could  not  be  opposed,  with  any  prospect  of 
success  by  individuals  of  the  United  States. 

That  by  means  of  the  above  trade,  thus  systematically  pursued, 
not  only  the  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  have  been  deprived 
of  commercial  profits  and  advantages,  to  which  thej'  appear  to 
have  just  and  natural  pretensions,  but  a  great  and  dangerous  in- 
fluence has  been  established  over  the  Indian  tribes,  difficult  to  be 
counteracted,  and  capable  of  being  exerted  at  critical  periods,  to 
the  great  injury  and  annoyance  of  our  frontier  settlements. 

That  in  order  to  obtain  at  least  a  part  of  the  above  trade,  and 
more  particularly  that  which  is  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
United  States,  your  petitioners,  in  the  year  1808,  obtained  an  act 
of  incorporation  from  the  State  of  New  York,  whereby  they  are 
enabled,  with  a  competent  capital,  to  carry  on  the  said  trade  with 
the  Indians  in  such  a  manner  as  may  be  conformable  to  the  laws 
and  regulations  of  the  United  States,  in  relation  to  such  a 
commerce. 

That  the  capital  mentioned  in  the  said  act,  amounting  to  one 
million  of  dollars,  having  been  duly  formed,  your  petitioners  en- 
tered with  zeal  and  alacrity  into  those  large  and  important  ar- 
rangements which  were  necessary  for,  or  conducive  to  the  object 
of  their  incorporation ;  and,  among  other  things,  purchased  a  ^^reat 
part  of  the  stock  in  trade,  and  trading  esti'^ 'i^-hrnents,  of  the 
Michilimackinac  Company  of  Canada.  —  Yolt  petitioners  also, 
with  the  expectation  of  great  public  and  private  advantage  from 
the  use  of  the  said  establishments,  ordered,  during  the  spring  and 
summer  of  1810,  an  assortment  of  goods  from  England,  suitable 
for  the  Indian  trade;    which,  in  consequence  of  the  President's 


APPENDIX 


475 


orms  the 
knowing, 
ag  of  his 


r  in  1812 
ntatives  of 

ly  showeth : 

th  America, 
rried  on  by 
ful  and  ex- 
iritish  capi- 
tion  of  the 
prospect  of 

lly  pursued, 
en  deprived 

appear  to 
ngerous  in- 
fficult  to  be 

periods,  to 
ents, 

trade,  and 
ries  of  the 
nied  an  act 

Dy  they  are 

trade  with 
to  the  laws 

to   such   a 

ting  to  one 
itioners  en- 
portant  ar- 

the  object 
ised  a  .-yreat 
nts,  of  the 
oners  also, 
ntage  from 

spring  and 
nd,  suitable 

President's 


proclamation  of  November  of  that  year,  were  shipped  to  Canada 
instead  of  New  York,  and  have  been  transported,  under  a  very 
heavy  expense,  into  the  interior  of  the  country.  But  as  they  could 
not  legally  be  brought  into  the  Indian  country  within  the  bound- 
aries of  the  United  States,  they  have  been  stored  on  the  Island 
of  St.  Joseph,  in  Lake  Huron,  where  they  now  remain. 

Your  petitioners,  with  great  deference  and  implicit  submission 
to  the  wisdom  of  the  national  legislature,  beg  leave  to  suggest  for 
consideration,  whether  they  have  not  some  claim  to  national  at- 
tention and  encouragement,  from  the  nature  and  importance  of 
their  undertaking;  which  though  hazardous  and  uncertain  as  it 
concerns  their  private  emolument,  must,  at  any  rate,  redound  to 
the  public  security  and  advantage.  If  their  undertaking  shall  ap- 
pear to  be  of  the  description  given,  they  would  further  suggest 
to  your  honorable  bodies,  that  unless  they  can  procure  a  regular 
supply  for  the  trade  in  which  they  are  engaged,  it  may  languish, 
and  be  finally  abandoned  by  American  citizens;  when  it  will  re- 
vert to  its  former  channel,  with  additional,  and  perhaps  with  irre- 
sistible, power. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  upon  all  those  considerations 
of  public  policy  which  will  present  themselves  to  your  honorable 
bodies,  in  connection  with  those  already  mentioned,  your  peti- 
tioners respectfully  pray  that  a  law  may  be  passed  to  enable  the 
President,  or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments  acting  under  his 
authority,  to  grant  permits  for  the  introduction  of  goods  neces- 
sary for  the  supply  of  the  Indians,  into  the  Indian  country  that 
is  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States,  under  such  regula- 
tions, and  with  such  restrictions,  as  may  secure  the  public  revenue 
and  promote  the  public  welfare. 

And  your  petitioners  shall  ever  pray,  &c. 
In  witness  whereof,  the  common  seal  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany is  hereunto  affixed,  the  day  of  March,  1812. 
By  order  of  the  Corporation. 


AN  ACT  to  enable  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  other  citi- 
zens, to  introduce  goods  necessary  for  the  Indian  trade  into 
the  territories  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States. 

Whereas,  the  public  peace  and  welfare  require  that  the  native 
Indian  tribes,  residing  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United  States, 
should  receive  their  necessary  supplies  under  the  authority  and 
from  the  citizens  of  the  United  States :  Therefore,  be  it  enacted 
by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States, 
in  Congress  assembled,  that  it  shall  be  lawful  for  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  or  any  of  the  heads  of  departments  there- 
unto by  him  duly  authorized,  from  time  to  time  to  grant  permits 
to  the  American  Fur  Company,  their  agents  or  factors,  or  any 
other  citizens  of  the  United  States  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade, 
to  introduce  into  the  Indian  country,  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
United  States,  such  goods,  wares,  and  merchandise,  as  may  be 


■ 

w 

■m ™  -  ■  1 

m 

11  -  V 

1 

%Y  ' 

n 

Mr 

H 

» 

9 

'd , 

J 

1 1 

*■ 

rjl    1 

.  11 

1 

1 

■i 

I 

•1 

476 


ASTORIA 


necessary  for  the  said  trade,  under  such  regulations  and  restric- 
tions as  the  said  President  or  heads  of  departments  may  judge 
proper;  any  law  or  regulation  to  the  contrary,  in  anywise, 
notwithstanding. 

Letter  from  Mr.  Gallatin  to  Mr.  Astor,  dated 

New  York,  August  S,  1835. 

Dear  Sir,  —  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I  will  state  such 
facts  as  I  recollect  touching  the  subjects  mentioned  in  your  letter 
of  28th  ult.  I  may  be  mistaken  respecting  dates  and  details,  and 
will  only  relate  general  facts,  which  I  well  remember. 

In  conformity  with  the  treaty  of  1794  with  Great  Britain,  the 
citizens  and  subjects  of  each  country  were  permitted  to  trade  with 
the  Indians  residing  in  the  territories  of  the  other  party.  The 
reciprocity  was  altogether  nominal.  Since  the  conquest  of  Canada,  • 
the  British  had  inherited  from  the  French  the  whole  fur  trade, 
through  the  great  lakes  and  their  communications,  with  all  the 
western  Indians,  whether  residing  in  the  British  dominions  or  the  • 
United  States.  They  kept  the  important  western  posts  on  those 
lakes  till  about  the  year  1797.  And  the  defensive  Indian  war, 
which  the  United  States  had  to  sustain  from  1776  to  1795,  had  still 
more  alienated  the  Indians,  and  secured  to  the  British  their  ex- 
clusive trade,  carried  through  the  lakes,  wherever  the  Indians  in 
that  quarter  lived.  No  A.merican  could,  without  imminent  danger 
of  property  and  life,  carry  on  that  trade,  even  within  the  United 
States,  by  the  way  of  either  Michilimackinac  or  St.  Mary's.  And 
independent  of  the  loss  of  commerce,  Great  Britain  was  enabled 
to  preserve  a  most  dangerous  influence  over  our  Indians. 

It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  you  communicated  to 
our  government  the  prospect  you  had  to  be  able,  and  your  inten- 
tion, to  purchase  one  half  of  the  interest  of  the  Canadian  Fur 
Company,  engaged  in  trade  by  the  way  of  Michilimackinac  with 
our  own  Indians.  You  wished  to  know  whether  the  plan  met  with 
the  approbation  of  government,  and  how  far  you  could  rely  on 
its  protection  and  encouragement.  This  overture  was  received 
with  great  satisfaction  by  the  administration,  and  Mr.  Jefferson, 
then  President,  wrote  you  to  that  effect.  I  was  also  directed,  as 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  to  write  to  you  an  official  letter  to  the 
same  purpose.  On  investigating  the  subject,  it  was  found  that  the 
Executive  had  no  authority  to  give  you  any  direct  aid ;  and  I 
believe  you  received  nothing  more  than  an  entire  approbation  of 
your  plan,  and  general  assurances  of  the  protection  due  to  every 
citizen  engaged  in  lawful  and  useful  pursuits. 

You  did  effect  the  contemplated  purchase,  but  in  what  year  I 
do  not  recollect.  Immediately  before  the  war,  you  represented 
that  a  large  quantity  of  merchandise,  intended  for  the  Indian 
trade,  and  including  arms  and  munitions  of  war,  belonging  to 
that  concern  of  which  you  owned  one  half,  was  deposited  at  a 
post  on  Lake  Huron,  within  the  British  dominions ;  that,  in  order 


APPENDIX 


477 


md  restric- 

may  judge 

n    anywise, 


i 

t  5,  1835. 

:  state  such 
your  letter 
details,  and 

Britain,  the 

trade  with 

arty.     The 

of  Canada, 

fur  trade, 
_ith  all  the 
ions  or  the  • 
s  on  those 
idian  war, 
15,  had  still 
1  their  ex- 
Indians  in 
^nt  danger 
:he  United 
ry's.  And 
as  enabled 
s. 

nicated  to 

our  inten- 

idian  Fur 

inac  with 

met  with 
d  rely  on 

received 
Jefferson, 
rected,  as 
ter  to  the 
d  that  the 
d ;  and  I 
bation  of 

to  every 

at  year  I 
presented 
le  Indian 
•nging  to 
ited  at  a 
in  order 


to  prevent  their  ultimately  falling  into  the  hands  of  Indians  who 
might  prove  hostile,  you  were  desirous  to  try  to  have  them  con- 
veyed into  the  United  States;  but  that  you  were  prevented  by  the 
then  existing  law  of  non-intercourse  with  the  British  dominions. 

The  Executive  could  not  annul  the  provisions  of  that  law.  But 
I  was  directed  to  instruct  the  collectors  on  the  lakes,  in  case  you 
and  your  agents  should  voluntarily  bring  in  and  deliver  to  them 
any  part  of  the  goods  above  mentioned,  to  receive  and  keep  them 
in  their  guard,  and  not  to  commence  prosecutions  until  further 
instructions :  the  intention  being  then  to  apply  to  Congress  for 
an  act  remitting  the  forfeiture  and  penalties.  1  wrote  accordingly, 
to  that  effect,  to  the  collectors  of  Detroit  and  Michilimackinac. 

The  attempt  to  obtain  the  goods  did  not,  however,  succeed; 
and  I  cannot  say  how  far  the  failure  injured  you.  But  the  war 
proved  fatal  to  another  much  more  extensive  and  important 
enterprise. 

Previous  to  that  time,  but  I  also  forgot  the  year,  you  had 
undertaken  to  carry  on  a  trade  on  your  own  account,  though  I 
believe  under  the  New  York  charter  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, with  the  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  proj- 
ect was  also  communicated  to  government,  and  met,  of  course, 
with  its  full  approbation,  and  best  wishes,  for  your  success.  You 
carried  it  on,  on  the  most  extensive  scale,  sending  several  ships 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  a  large  party  by  land 
across  the  mountains,  and  finally  founding  the  establishment  of 
Astoria. 

This  unfortunately  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy  during 
the  war,  from  circumstances  with  which  I  am  but  imperfectly 
acquainted  —  being  then  absent  on  a  foreign  mission.  I  returned 
in  September  1815,  and  sailed  again  on  a  mission  to  France  in 
June,  1816.  During  that  period  I  visited  Washington  twice  —  in 
October  or  November,  181 5,  and  in  March,  1816.  On  one  of  these 
occasions,  and  I  believe  on  the  last,  you  mentioned  to  me  that  you 
were  disposed  once  more  to  renew  the  attempt,  and  to  reestablish 
Astoria,  provided  you  had  the  protection  of  the  American  flag; 
for  which  purpose,  a  lieutenant's  command  would  be  sufficient  to 
you.  You  requested  me  to  mention  this  to  the  President,  which 
I  did.  Mr.  Madison  said  he  would  consider  the  subject,  and, 
although  he  did  not  commit  himself,  I  thought  that  he  received 
the  proposal  favorably.  The  message  was  verbal,  and  I  do  not 
know  whether  the  application  was  ever  renewed  in  a  more  formal 
manner.  I  sailed  soon  after  for  Europe,  and  was  seven  years 
absent.  I  never  had  the  pleasure,  since  1816,  to  see  Mr.  Madison, 
and  never  heard  again  any  thing  concerning  the  subject  in 
question. 

I  remain,  dear  sir,  most  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

ALBERT   GALLATIN. 
John  Jacob  Astor,  Esq., 

New  York. 


478 


ASTORIA 


i). 


a: 


ii 


1^ 

Hit 

% 


:i 


if* 


!*^9    4 


'      ,' '  (in 
1    ?!  / 


IV 


lit-. 


H 


Notices  of  the  Present  State  of  the  Fur  Trade,  chiefly  extracted 
from  an  article  published  in  Silliman's  Magazine  for  January, 
1834 

The  Northwest  Company  did  not  long  enjoy  the  sway  they 
had  acquired  over  the  trading  regions  of  the  Columbia.  A  com- 
petition, ruinous  in  its  expenses,  which  had  long  existed  between 
them  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  ended  in  their  downfall 
and  the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners.  The  relict  of  the  company 
became  merged  in  the  rival  association,  and  the  whole  business 
was  conducted  under  the  name  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

This  coalition  took  place  in  1821.  They  then  abandoned  As- 
toria, and  built  a  large  establishment  sixty  miles  up  the  river,  on 
the  right  bank,  which  they  called  P'ort  Vancouver.  This  was  in 
a  neighborhood  where  provisions  could  be  more  readily  pro- 
cured, and  where  there  was  less  danger  from  molestation  by  any 
naval  force.  The  company  are  said  to  carry  on  an  active  and 
prosperous  trade,  and  to  give  great  encouragement  to  settlers. 
They  are  extremely  jealous,  however,  of  any  interference  or  par- 
ticipation in  their  trade,  and  monopolize  it  from  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  to  the  mountains,  and  for  a  considerabl-^.  extent  north  and 
south.  The  American  traders  and  trappers  v^tio  venture  across 
the  mountains,  instead  of  enjoying  the  participation  in  the  trade 
of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  that  had  been  stipulated  by  treaty, 
are  obliged  to  keep  to  the  south,  out  of  the  track  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  parties. 

Mr.  Astor  has  withdrawn  entirely  from  the  American  Fur 
Company,  as  he  has,  in  fact,  from  active  business  of  every  kind. 
That  company  is  now  headed  by  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks;  its  princi- 
pal establishment  is  at  Michilimackinac,  and  it  receives  its  furs 
from  the  posts  depending  on  that  station,  and  from  those  on  the 
Mississippi,  Missouri,  and  Yellow  Stone  rivers,  and  the  great 
range  of  country  extending  thence  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This 
company  has  steamboats  in  its  employ,  with  which  it  ascends  the 
rivers,  and  penetrates  to  a  vast  distance  into  the  bosom  of  those 
regions  formerly  so  painfully  explored  in  keel-boats  and  barges, 
or  by  weary  parties  on  horseback  and  on  foot.  The  first  irrup- 
tion of  steamboats  into  the  heart  of  these  vast  wildernesses  is 
said  to  have  caused  the  utmost  astonishment  and  affright  among 
their  savage  inhabitants. 

In  addition  to  the  main  companies  already  mentioned,  minor 
associations  have  been  formed,  which  push  their  way  in  the  most 
intrepid  manner  to  the  remote  parts  of  the  far  West,  and  beyond 
the  mountain  barriers.  One  of  the  most  noted  of  these  is  Ash- 
ley's company,  from  St.  Louis,  who  trap  for  themselves,  and  drive 
an  extensive  trade  with  the  Indians.  The  spirit,  enterprise,  and 
hardihood  of  Ashley,  are  themes  of  the  highest  eulogy  in  the  far 
West,  and  his  adventures  and  exploits  furnish  abundance  of 
frontier  stories. 

Another  company  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons  from  New 
York,  formed  in  1831,  and  headed  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  the 


APPENJjlX 


479 


extracted 
•  January, 


;way  they 
A  com- 
i  between 
downfall 
company 
;  business 
)mpany, 
!onecl  As- 
river,  on 
is  was  in 
dily  pro- 
5n  by  any 
ctive  and 
)  settlers. 
:e  or  par- 
ist  of  the 
north  and 
re  across 
the  trade 
by  treaty, 
Hudson's 

ican  Fur 
ery  kind, 
ts  princi- 
>  its  furs 
se  on  the 
he  great 
ns.  This 
:ends  the 
of  those 
d  barges, 
St  irrup- 
nesses  is 
It  among 

d,  minor 
the  most 
d  beyond 
is  Ash- 
md  drive 
rise,  and 
1  the  far 
lance   of 

om  New 
e  of  the 


'leforc 
.)f  fur* . 
oasts  o  ^ 
nd  Tim-- 


United  States  army,  has  pushed  its  enterprise  into  tra 
but  little  known,  and  has  brought  considerable  quantit 
from  the  region  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  th 
Monterey  and  Upper  California,  on  the  Buenaventura 
panogos  rivers. 

The  fur  countries,  from  the  Pacific,  east  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, are  now  occupied  (exclusive  of  private  combinations  and 
individual  trappers  and  traders)  by  the  Russians ;  and  on  the 
northwest  from  Behring's  Strait  to  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  in 
north  latitude  fifty-three  degrees,  and  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany thence,  south  of  the  Columbia  River;  while  Ashley's  com- 
pany, and  that  under  Captain  Bonneville,  take  the  remainder  of 
the  region  to  California.  Indeed,  the  whole  compass  from  the 
Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  traversed  in  every  direction. 
The  mountains  and  forests,  from  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  are  threaded,  through  every  maze,  by  the  hunter.  Every 
river  and  tributary  stream,  from  the  Columbia  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte,  and  from  the  M'Kenzie  to  the  Colorado  of  the 
West,  from  their  head  springs  to  their  junction,  are  searched  and 
trapped  for  beaver.  Almost  all  the  American  furs,  which  do  not 
belong  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  find  their  way  to  New  York, 
and  are  either  distributed  thence  for  home  consumption,  or  sent 
to  foreign  markets. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ship  their  furs  from  their  fac- 
tories of  York  Fort  and  from  Moose  River,  on  Hudson's  Bay; 
their  collection  from  Grand  River,  &c.,  they  ship  from  Canada ; 
and  the  collection  from  Columbia  goes  to  London.  None  of  their 
furs  come  to  the  United  States,  except  through  the  London 
market. 

The  export  trade  of  furs  from  the  United  States  is  chiefly  to 
London.  Some  quantities  have  been  sent  to  Canton,  and  some  few 
to  Hamburgh ;  and  an  increasing  export  trade  in  beaver,  otter, 
nutria,  and  vicunia  wool,  prepared  for  the  hatter's  use,  is  carried 
on  in  Mexico.  Some  furs  are  exported  from  Baltimore,  Phila- 
delphia, and  Boston ;  but  the  principal  shipments  from  the  United 
States  are  from  New  York  to  London,  from  whence  they  are 
sent  to  Leipsic,  a  well-known  mart  for  furs,  where  they  are  dis- 
posed of  during  the  great  fair  in  that  city,  and  distributed  to 
every  part  of  the  continent. 

The  United  States  import  from  South  America,  nutria,  vicunia, 
chinchilla,  and  a  few  deer-skins ;  also  fur  seals  from  the  Lobos 
Islands,  off  the  river  Plate.  A  quantity  of  beaver,  otter,  &c.,  are 
brought  annually  from  Santa  Fe.  Dressed  furs  for  edgings,  lin- 
ings, caps,  muffs,  &c.,  such  as  squirrel,  genet,  fitch  skins,  and  blue 
rabbit,  are  received  from  the  north  of  Europe;  also  cony  and 
hare's  fur;  but  the  largest  importations  are  from  London,  where 
is  concentrated  nearly  the  whole  of  the  North  American  fur 
trade. 

Such  is  the  present  state  of  the  fur  trade,  by  which  it  will 
appear  that  the  extended  sway  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  its  monopoly  of  the  region  of  which  Astoria  was  the  key, 


m 


480 


ASTORIA 


has  operated  to  turn  the  main  current  of  this  opulent  trade  into 
the  coffers  of  Great  liritain,  and  to  render  London  the  emporium 
instead  of  New  York,  as  Mr.  Astor  had  intended. 

We  will  subjoin  a  few  observations  on  the  atiimals  sought 
after  in  this  traffic,  extracted  from  the  same  intelligent  source 
with  the  preceding  remarks. 

Of  the  fiir-bcariiig  animals,  "  the  precious  ermine,"  so  called 
by  way  of  preeminence,  is  found,  of  the  best  quality,  only  in  the 
cold  regions  of  Europe  and  Asia.'  Its  fur  is  of  the  most  perfect 
whiteness,  except  the  tip  of  its  tail,  which  is  of  a  brilliant  shining 
black.  With  these  black  tips  tacked  on  the  skins,  they  are  beau- 
tifully spotted,  producing  an  effect  often  imitated,  but  never 
equalled  in  other  furs.  The  ermine  is  of  the  genus  mustela 
(weasel),  and  resembles  the  common  weasel  in  its  form;  is  from 
fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  from  the  tip  of  the  nose  to  the  end  of 
the  tail.  The  body  is  from  ten  to  twelve  inches  long.  It  lives  in 
hollow  trees,  river  banks,  and  especially  in  beech  forests;  preys 
on  small  birds,  is  very  shy,  sleeping  during  the  day,  and  employ- 
ing the  Jiight  in  search  of  food.  The  fur  of  the  older  animals  is 
preferred  to  the  younger.  It  is  taken  by  snares  and  traps,  and 
sometimes  shot  with  blunt  arrows.  Attempts  have  been  made  to 
domesticate  it;  but  it  is  extremely  wild,  and  has  been  found 
untameable. 

The  sable  can  scarcely  be  called  second  to  the  ermine.  It  is  a 
native  of  Northern  Europe  and  Siberia,  and  is  also  of  the  genus 
mustela.  In  Samoieda,  Yakutsk,  Kamtschatka,  and  Russian  Lap- 
land, it  is  found  of  the  richest  quality,  and  darkest  color.  In  its 
habits,  it  resembles  the  ermine.  It  preys  on  small  squirrels  and 
birds,  sleeps  by  day,  and  prowls  for  food  during  the  night.  It  is 
so  like  the  marten  in  every  particular  except  its  size,  and  the 
dark  shade  of  its  color,  that  naturalists  have  not  decided  whether 
it  is  the  richest  and  finest  of  the  marten  tribe,  or  a  variety  of  that 
species."    It  varies  in  dimensions  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches. 

The  rich  dark  shades  of  the  sable,  and  the  snowy  whiteness  of 
the  ermine,  the  great  depth,  and  the  peculiar,  almost  flowing  soft- 
ness of  their  skins  and  fur,  have  combined  to  gain  them  a  prefer- 
ence in  all  countries,  and  in  all  ages  of  the  world.  In  this  age, 
they  maintain  the  same  relative  estimate  in  regard  to  other  furs, 
as  when  they  marked  the  rank  of  the  proud  crusader,  and  were 
emblazoned  in  heraldry :  but  in  most  European  nations,  they  are 
now  worn  promiscuously  by  the  opulent. 


m  ■ 


I    I 


*  An  animal  called  the  stoat,  a  kind  of  ermine,  is  said  to  be 
found  in  North  America,  but  very  inferior  to  the  European  and 
Asiatic. 

'  The  finest  fur  and  the  darkest  color  are  most  esteemed ;  and 
whether  the  difference  arises  from  the  age  of  the  animal,  or  from 
some  peculiarity  of  location,  is  not  known.  They  do  not  vary 
more  from  the  common  marten  than  the  Arabian  horse  from  the 
shaggy  Canadian. 


^± 


APPENDIX 


481 


trade  into 
cmporiuin 

lis   sought 
:nt  source 

so  called 
nly  in  the 
)st  perfect 
nt  shining 
are  beau- 
hut  never 
s  mustela 
1 ;  is  from 
;he  end  of 
It  lives  in 
sts;  preys 
d  employ- 
animals  is 
traps,  and 
n  made  to 
een  found 

le.    It  is  a 

the  genus 

ssian  Lap- 

or.    In  its 

irrels  and 

ght.    It  is 

and  the 

whether 

ty  of  that 

y  inches. 

iteness  of 

ing  soft- 

a  prefer- 

this  age, 

thcr  furs, 

and  were 

they  are 


aid  to  be 
)pean  and 

ned ;   and 
or  from 
not  vary 
from  the 


The  martens  from  Northern  Asia  and  the  Mountains  of  Kamt- 
schatka  are  much  sui)erior  to  the  American,  though  in  every  pack 
of  American  marten  skins  there  are  a  certain  immber  which  are 
beautifully  shaded,  and  of  a  dark  brown  olive  color  of  great 
depth  and  richness. 

Next  these  in  value,  for  ornament  and  utility,  are  the  sea-otter, 
the  mink,  and  the  liery  fox. 

The  liery  fox  is  the  bright  red  of  Asia;  is  more  brilliantly 
colored  and  of  finer  fur  than  any  other  of  the  genus.  It  is  highly 
valued  for  the  splendor  of  its  red  color  and  the  fmcness  of  its 
fur.  It  is  the  standard  of  value  on  the  northeastern  coast  of 
Asia. 

The  sea-otter,  which  was  first  introduced  into  commerce  in 
1725,  from  the  Aleutian  and  Kurile  Islands,  is  an  exceedingly  line, 
soft,  close  fur,  jet  black  in  winter,  with  a  silken  gloss.  The  fur 
of  the  young  animal  is  of  a  beautiful  brown  color.  It  is  met  with 
in  great  abundance  in  Hehring's  Island,  Kamtschatka,  Aleutian 
and  Fox  Islands,  and  is  also  taken  on  the  opposite  coasts  of  North 
America.  It  is  sometimes  taken  with  nets,  but  more  frequently 
with  clubs  and  spears.  Their  food  is  principally  lobster  and  other 
shell-fish. 

In  1780  furs  had  become  so  scarce  in  Siberia,  that  the  supply 
was  insufficient  for  the  demand  in  the  Asiatic  countries.  It  was 
at  this  time  that  the  sea-otter  was  introduced  into  the  markets 
for  China.  The  skins  brought  such  incredible  prices,  as  to  origi- 
nate immediately  several  American  and  British  expeditions  to 
the  northern  islands  of  the  Pacific,  to  Nootka  Sound,  and  the 
northwest  coast  of  America;  but  the  Russians  already  had  pos- 
session of  the  tract  which  they  now  hold,  and  had  arranged  a 
trade  for  the  sea-otter  with  the  Koudek  tribes.  They  do  not 
engross  the  trade,  however ;  the  American  northwest  trading 
ships  procure  them,  all  along  the  coast,  from  the  Indians, 

At  one  period,  the  fur  seals  formed  no  inconsiderable  item  in 
the  trade.  South  Georgia,  in  south  latitude  fifty-five  degrees,  dis- 
covered in  1675,  was  explored  by  Captain  Cook  in  1771.  The 
Americans  immediately  commenced  carrying  seal  skins  thence  to 
China,  where  they  obtained  the  most  exorbitant  prices.  One 
million  two  hundred  thousand  skins  have  been  taken  from  that 
island  alone,  and  nearly  an  equal  number  from  the  Island  of 
Desolation,  since  they  were  first  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
commerce. 

The  discovery  of  the  South  Shetlands,  sixty-three  degrees 
south  latitude,  in  1818,  added  surprisingly  to  the  trade  in  fur 
seals.  The  number  taken  from  the  South  Shetlands  in  1821  and 
1822  amounted  to  three  hundred  and  twenty  thousand.  This 
valuable  animal  is  now  almost  extinct  in  all  these  islands,  owing 
to  the  exterminating  system  adopted  by  the  hunters.  They  are 
still  taken  on  the  Lobos  Islands,  where  the  provident  government 
of  Montevideo  restrict  the  fishery,  or  hunting,  within  certain 
limits,  which  insures  an  annual  return  of  the  seals.  At  certain 
seasons,  these  amphibia,  for  the  purpose  of  renewing  their  coat, 

31 


482 


ASTORIA 


1        ,!  • 


come  up  on  the  dark  frowning  rocks  and  precipices,  where  there 
is  not  a  trace  of  vegetation.  In  the  middle  of  January,  the  islands 
are  partially  cleared  of  snow,  where  a  few  patches  of  short 
straggling  grass  spring  up  in  favorable  situations;  but  the  seals 
do  not  resort  to  it  for  food.  They  remain  on  the  rocks  not  less 
than  two  months,  without  any  sustenance,  when  they  return  much 
emaciated  to  the  sea. 

Bears  of  various  species  and  colors,  many  varieties  of  the  fox, 
the  wolf,  the  beaver,  the  otter,  the  marten,  the  raccoon,  the  badger, 
the  wolverine,  the  mink,  the  lynx,  the  muskrat,  the  woodchuck,  the 
rabbit,  the  hare,  and  the  squirrel,  are  natives  of  North  America. 

The  beaver,  otter,  lynx,  fisher,  hare,  and  raccoon,  are  used 
principally  for  hats;  while  the  bears  of  several  varieties  furnish 
an  excellent  material  for  sleigh  linings,  for  cavalry  caps,  and  other 
military  equipments.  The  fur  of  the  black  fox  is  the  most  valu- 
able of  any  of  the  American  varieties;  and  next  to  that  the  red, 
which  is  exported  to  China  and  Smyrna.  In  China,  the  red  is 
employed  for  trimmings,  linings,  and  robes;  the  latter  being 
variegated  by  adding  the  black  fur  of  the  paws,  in  spots  or  waves. 
There  are  many  other  varieties  of  American  fox,  such  as  the 
gray,  the  white,  the  cross,  the  silver,  and  the  dun-colored.  The 
silver  fox  is  a  rare  animal,  a  native  of  the  woody  country  below 
the  falls  of  the  Columbia  River.  It  has  a  long,  thick,  deep  lead- 
colored  fur,  intermingled  with  long  hairs,  invariably  white  at  the 
top,  forming  a  bright  lustrous  silver  gray,  esteemed  by  some  more 
beautiful  than  any  other  kind  of  fox. 

The  skins  of  the  buffalo,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  of 
various  deer,  and  of  the  antelope,  are  included  in  the  fur  trade 
with  the  Indians  and  trappers  of  the  north  and  west. 

Fox  and  seal  skins  are  sent  from  Greenland  to  Denmark.  The 
white  fur  of  the  arctic  fox  and  polar  bear  is  sometimes  found  in 
the  packs  brought  to  the  traders  by  the  most  northern  tribes  of 
Indians,  but  is  not  particularly  valuable.  The  silver-tipped  rabbit 
is  peculiar  to  England,  and  is  sent  thence  to  Russia  and  China. 

Other  furs  are  employed  and  valued  according  to  the  caprices 
of  fashion,  as  well  in  those  countries  where  they  are  needed  for 
defences  against  the  severity  of  the  seasons,  as  among  the  in- 
habitants of  milder  climates,  who,  being  of  Tartar  or  Sclavonian 
descent,  are  said  to  inherit  an  attachment  to  furred  clothing.  Such 
are  the  inhabitants  of  Poland,  of  Southern  Russia,  of  China,  of 
Persia,  of  Turkey,  and  all  the  nations  of  Gothic  origin  in  the 
middle  and  western  parts  of  Europe.  Under  the  burning  suns  of 
Syria  and  Egypt,  and  the  mild  climes  of  Bucharia  and  Independent 
Tartary,  there  is  also  a  constant  demand,  and  a  great  consump- 
tion, where  there  exists  no  physical  necessity.  In  our  own  tem- 
perate latitudes,  besides  their  use  in  the  arts,  they  are  in  request 
for  ornament  and  warmth  during  the  winter,  and  large  quantities 
a»c  annually  consumed  for  both  purposes  in  the  United  States. 

From  the  foregoing  statements,  it  appears  that  the  fur  trade 
must  henceforward  decline.  The  advanced  state  of  geographical 
science  shows  that  no  new  countries  remain  to  be  explored.    In 


APPENDIX 


483 


sre  there 
e  islands 
of  short 
the  seals 
;  not  less 
irn  much 

the  fox, 
e  badger, 
huck,  the 
.merica. 
are  used 
s  furnish 
and  other 
lost  valu- 
t  the  red, 
he  red  is 
ter  being 
or  waves. 
:h  as  the 
red.  The 
try  below 
ieep  lead- 
lite  at  the 
pme  more 

sheep,  of 
fur  trade 

ark.    The 

found  in 

tribes  of 

led  rabbit 

China. 

caprices 
ceded  for 
ig  the  in- 
clavonian 
ng.    Such 
China,  of 
in  in  the 
ig  suns  of 
dependent 
consump- 
own  tem- 
in  request 
quantities 
States, 
fur  trade 
ographical 
lored.     In 


North  America  the  animals  are  slowly  decreasing,  from  the  per- 
severing efforts  and  the  indiscriminate  slaughter  practised  by  the 
hunters,  and  by  the  appropriation  to  the  uses  of  man  of  those 
forests  and  rivers  which  have  afforded  them  food  and  protection. 
They  recede  with  the  aborigines,  before  the  tide  of  civilization; 
but  a  diminished  supply  will  remain  in  the  mountains  and  uncul- 
tivated tracts  of  this  and  other  countries,  if  the  avidity  of  the 
hunter  can  be  restrained  within  proper  limitations. 


Height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 

Various  estimates  have  been  made  of  the  height  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  any  have,  as  yet,  done  jus- 
tice to  their  real  altitude,  which  promises  to  place  them  only 
second  to  the  highest  mountains  of  the  known  world.  Their  height 
has  been  diminished  to  the  eye  by  the  great  elevation  of  the  plains 
from  which  they  rise.  They  consist,  according  to  Long,  of  ridges, 
knobs,  and  peaks,  variously  disposed.  The  more  elevated  parts 
are  covered  with  perpetual  snows,  which  contribute  to  give  them 
a  luminous,  and,  at  a  great  distance,  even  a  brilliant  appearance; 
whence  they  derived,  among  some  of  the  first  discoverers,  the 
name  of  the  Shining  Mountains. 

James's  Peak  has  generally  been  cited  as  the  highest  of  the 
chain ;  and  its  elevation  above  the  common  level  has  been  ascer- 
tained, by  a  trigonometrical  measurement,  to  be  about  eight  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet.  Mr.  Long,  however,  judged,  from  the 
position  of  the  snow  near  the  summits  of  other  peaks  and  ridg'^s 
at  no  great  distance  from  it,  that  they  were  much  higher.  Having 
heard  Professor  Renwick,  of  New  York,  express  an  opinion  of 
the  altitude  of  these  mountains  far  beyond  what  had  usually  been 
ascribed  to  them,  we  applied  to  him  for  the  authority  on  which  he 
grounded  his  observation,  and  here  subjoin  his  reply :  — 

Columbia  College,  New  York,  February  23,  1836. 

Dear  Sir,  —  In  compliance  with  your  request,  I  have  to  com- 
municate some  facts  in  relation  to  the  heights  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  the  sources  whence  I  obtained  the  information. 

In  conversation  with  Simon  M'Gillivray,  Esq.,  a  partner  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  he  stated  to  me  his  impression,  that  the 
mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  traders  of 
that  company  were  nearly  as  high  as  the  Himalayas.  He  had 
himself  crossed  by  this  route,  seen  the  snowy  summits  of  the 
peaks,  and  experienced  a  degree  of  cold  which  required  a  spirit 
thermometer  to  indicate  it.  His  authority  for  the  estimate  of  the 
heights  was  a  gentleman  who  had  been  employed  for  several 
years  as  surveyor  of  that  company.  This  conversation  occurred 
about  sixteen  years  since. 

A  year  or  two  afterwards,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  dining,  at 
Major  Delafield's,  with  "dr.  Thompson,  the  gentleman  referred 


484 


ASTORIA 


to  by  Mr.  M'GilHvray.  I  inquired  of  him  in  relation  to  the  cir- 
cumstances mentioned  by  Mr.  M'Gillivray,  and  he  stated,  that,  by 
the  joint  means  of  the  barometric  and  trigonometric  measure- 
ment, he  had  ascertained  the  height  of  one  of  the  peaks  to  be 
about  twenty-five  thousand  feet,  and  there  were  others  of  nearly 
the  same  height  in  the  vicinity. 

I  am,  dear  sir, 

Yours  truly, 

JAMES   RENWICK. 
To  W.  Irving,  Esq. 


Suggestions  with  respect  to  the  Indian  tribes,  and  the  protection 

of  our  Trade 

In  the  course  of  this  work,  a  few  general  remarks  have  been 
hazarded  respecting  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  prairies,  and  the 
dangers  to  be  apprehended  from  them  in  future  times  to  our  trade 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  with  the  Spanish  frontiers. 
Since  writing  those  remarks,  we  have  met  with  some  excellent 
observations  and  suggestions,  in  manuscript,  on  the  same  subject, 
written  by  Captain  Bonneville,  of  the  United  States  army,  who 
has  lately  returned  from  a  long  residence  among  the  tribes  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Captain  B.  approves  highly  of  the  plan  re- 
cently adopted  by  the  United  States  government  for  the  organiza- 
tion of  a  regiment  of  dragoons  for  the  protection  of  our  western 
frontier,  and  the  trade  across  the  prairies.  "  No  other  species  of 
military  force,"  he  observes,  "  is  at  all  competent  to  cope  with 
these  restless  and  wandering  hordes,  who  require  to  be  opposed 
with  swiftness  quite  as  much  as  with  strength;  and  the  conscious- 
ness that  a  troop,  uniting  these  qualifications,  is  always  on  the 
alert  to  avenge  their  outrages  upon  the  settlers  and  traders,  will 
go  very  far  towards  restraining  them  from  the  perpetration  of 
those  thefts  and  murders  which  they  have  heretofore  committed 
with  impunity,  whenever  stratagem  or  superiority  of  force  has 
given  them  the  advantage.  Their  interest  already  has  done  some- 
thing towards  their  pacification  with  our  countrymen.  From  the 
traders  among  them,  they  receive  their  supplies  in  the  greatest 
abundance,  and  upon  very  equitable  terms ;  and  when  it  is  remem- 
bered that  a  very  considerable  amount  of  property  is  yearly  dis- 
tributed among  them  by  the  government,  as  presents,  it  will  readily 
be  perceived  that  they  are  greatly  dependent  upon  us  for  their 
most  valued  resources.  If,  superadded  to  this  inducement,  a  fre- 
quent display  of  military  power  be  made  in  their  territories,  there 
can  be  little  doubt  that  the  desired  security  and  peace  will  be 
speedily  afforded  to  our  own  people.  But  the  idea  of  establishing 
a  permanent  amity  and  concord  amongst  the  various  east  and 
west  tribes  themselves,  seems  to  me,  if  not  wholly  impracticable, 
at  least  infinitely  more  difficult  than  many  excellent  philanthropists 
have  hoped  and  believed.     Those  nations  which  have  so  lately 


APPENDIX 


48= 


o  the  cir- 
i,  that,  by 

measure- 
aks  to  be 

of  nearly 


lNWICK. 


protection 


have  been 

I,  and  the 

1  our  trade 

frontiers. 

I  excellent 

le  subject, 

irmy,  who 

bes  of  the 

plan  re- 

organiza- 

tr  western 

species  of 

cope  with 

e  opposed 

:onscious- 

ys  on  the 

iders,  will 

ration  of 

ommitted 

orce  has 

)ne  somc- 

^rom  the 

greatest 

is  remem- 

early  dis- 

ill  readily 

for  their 

nt,  a  fre- 

ies,  there 

will  be 

tablishing 

east  and 

•acticable, 

ithropists 

so  lately 


emigrated  from  the  midst  of  our  settlements  to  live  upon  our 
western  borders,  and  have  made  some  progress  in  agriculture  and 
the  arts  of  civilization,  have,  in  the  property  they  have  acquired, 
and  the  protection  and  aid  extended  to  them,  too  many  advantages 
to  be  induced  readily  to  take  up  arms  against  us,  particularly  if 
they  can  be  brought  to  the  full  conviction  that  their  new  homes 
will  be  permanent  and  undisturbed;  and  there  is  every  reason 
and  motive,  in  policy  as  well  as  humanity,  for  our  ameliorating 
their  condition  by  every  means  in  our  power.  But  the  case  is  far 
different  with  regard  to  the  Osages,  the  Kanzas,  the  Pawnees,  and 
other  roving  hordes  beyond  the  frontiers  of  the  settlements.  Wild 
and  restless  in  their  character  and  habits,  they  are  by  no  means 
so  susceptible  of  control  or  civilization ;  and  they  are  urged  by 
strong,  and,  to  them,  irresistible  causes  in  their  situation  and 
necessities,  to  the  daily  perpetration  of  violence  and  fraud.  Their 
permanent  subsistence,  for  example,  is  derived  from  the  buffalo 
hunting  grounds,  which  lie  a  great  distance  from  their  towns. 
Twice  a  year  they  are  obliged  to  make  long  and  dangerous  ex- 
peditions, to  procure  the  necessary  provisions  for  themselves  and 
their  families.  For  this  purpose  horses  are  absolutely  requisite, 
for  their  own  comfort  and  safety,  as  well  as  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  their  food,  and  their  little  stock  of  valuables;  and  with- 
out them  they  would  be  reduced,  during  a  great  portion  of  the 
year,  to  a  state  of  abject  misery  and  privation.  They  have  no 
brood  mares,  nor  any  trade  sufficiently  valuable  to  supply  their 
yearly  losses,  and  endeavor  to  keep  up  their  stock  by  stealing 
horses  from  the  other  tribes  to  the  west  and  southwest.  Our  own 
people,  and  the  tribes  immediately  upon  our  borders,  may  indeed 
be  protected  from  their  depredations;  and  the  Kanzas,  Osages, 
Pawnees,  and  others,  may  be  induced  to  remain  at  peace  among 
themselves,  so  long  as  they  are  permitted  to  pursue  the  old  custom 
of  levying  .pon  the  Camanches  and  other  remote  nations  for 
their  complement  of  steeds  for  the  warriors,  and  pack-horses  for 
their  transportations  to  and  from  the  hunting  ground.  But  the 
instant  they  are  forced  to  maintain  a  peaceful  and  inoffensive 
demeanor  towards  the  tribes  along  the  Mexican  border,  and  find 
that  every  violation  of  their  rights  is  followed  by  the  avenging 
arm  of  our  government,  the  result  must  be,  that,  reduced  to  a 
wretchedness  and  want  which  they  can  ill  brook,  and  feeling  the 
certainty  of  punishment  for  every  attempt  to  ameliorate  their  con- 
dition .in  the  only  way  they  as  yet  comprehend,  they  will  abandon 
their  unfruitful  territory  and  remove  to  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Mexican  lands,  and  there  carry  on  a  vigorous  predatory  warfare 
indiscriminately  upon  the  Mexicans  and  our  own  people  trading 
or  travelling  in  that  quarter. 

"The  Indians  of  the  prairies  are  almost  innumerable.  Their 
superior  horsemanship,  which,  in  my  opinion,  far  exceeds  that  of 
any  other  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  their  daring  bravery, 
their  cunning  and  skill  in  the  warfare  of  the  wilderness,  and  the 
astonishing  rapidity  and  secrecy  with  which  they  are  accustomed 
to  move  in  their  martial  expeditions,  will  always  render  them 


486 


ASTORIA 


HI 


,'m 


'il' 


most  dangerous  and  vexatious  neighbors,  when  their  necessities 
or  their  discontents  may  drive  them  to  hostility  with  our  fron- 
tiers. Their  mode  and  principles  of  warfare  will  always  protect 
them  from  final  and  irretrievable  defeat,  and  secure  their  families 
from  participating  in  any  blow,  however  severe,  which  our  retri- 
bution might  deal  out  to  them. 

"  The  Camanches  lay  the  Mexicans  under  contribution  for 
horses  and  mules,  which  they  are  always  engaged  in  stealing  from 
them  in  incredible  numbers ;  and  from  the  Camanches,  all  the  rov- 
ing tribes  of  the  far  West,  by  a  similar  exertion  of  skill  and 
daring,  supply  themselves  in  turn.  It  seems  to  me,  therefore, 
under  all  these  circumstances,  that  the  apparent  futility  of  any 
philanthropic  schemes  for  the  benefit  of  these  nations,  and  a  re- 
gard for  our  own  protection,  concur  in  recommending  that  we 
remain  satisfied  with  maintaining  peace  upon  our  own  immediate 
borders,  and  leave  the  Mexicans  and  the  Camanches,  and  all  the 
tribes  hostile  to  these  last,  to  settle  their  differences  and  difficul- 
ties in  their  own  way. 

"  In  order  to  give  full  security  and  protection  to  our  trading 
parties  circulating  in  all  directions  through  the  great  prairies,  I 
am  under  the  impression,  that  a  few  judicious  measures  on  the 
part  of  the  government,  involving  a  very  limited  expense,  would 
be  sufficient.  And,  in  attaining  vhis  end,  which  of  itself  has  al- 
ready become  an  object  of  public  interest  and  import,  another,  of 
much  greater  consequence,  might  be  brought  about,  namely,  the 
securing  to  the  States  a  most  valuable  and  increasing  trade,  now 
carried  on  by  caravans  directly  to  Santa  Fe. 

"  As  to  the  first  desideratum :  the  Indians  can  only  be  made  to 
respect  the  lives  and  property  of  the  American  parties,  by  render- 
ing them  dependent  upon  us  for  their  supplies;  which  can  alone 
be  done  with  complete  effect  by  the  estalDlishment  of  a  trading 
post,  with  resident  traders,  at  some  point  which  will  unite  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  advantages  to  attract  the  several  tribes  to  itself, 
in  preference  to  their  present  places  of  resort  for  that  purpose; 
for  it  is  a  well-known  fact,  that  the  Indians  will  always  protect 
their  trader,  and  those  in  whom  he  is  interested,  so  long  as  they 
derive  benefits  from  him.  The  alternative  presented  to  those  at 
the  north,  by  the  residence  of  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  amongst  them,  renders  the  condition  of  our  people  in 
that  quarter  less  secure ;  but  I  think  it  will  appear  at  once,  upon 
the  most  cursory  examination,  that  no  such  opposition  further 
south  could  be  maintained,  so  as  to  weaken  the  benefits  of  such 
an  establishment  as  is  here  suggested. 

"  In  considering  this  matter,  the  first  question  which  presents 
itself  is,  where  do  these  tribes  now  make  their  exchanges,  and 
obtain  their  necessary  supplies.  They  resort  almost  exclusively 
to  the  Mexicans,  who,  themselves,  purchase  from  us  whatever  the 
Indians  most  seek  for.  In  this  point  of  view,  therefore,  cccteris 
paribus,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  for  us  to  monopolize  the 
whole  traffic.  All  that  is  wanting  is  some  location  more  conven- 
ient for  the  natives  than  that  offered  by  the  Mexicans,  to  give  us 


APPENDIX 


487 


ecessities 
)ur  fron- 
s  protect 
•  families 
)ur  retri- 

ition  for 
ling  from 
I  the  rov- 
skill  and 
;hercfore, 
y  of  any 
and  a  re- 
[  that  we 
mmediate 
id  all  the 
d  difficul- 

ir  trading 
)rairies,  I 
es  on  the 
se,  would 
If  has  al- 
nother,  of 
imely,  the 
rade,  now 

made  to 
render- 
can  alone 
trading 
e  a  suffi- 
to  itself, 
purpose; 
s  protect 
as  they 
those  at 
on's  Bay 
people  in 
ice,  upon 
further 
of  such 

presents 
igcs,  and 
:clusively 
tever  the 
cater  is 
olize  the 

conven- 
I  give  us 


the  undisputed  superiority;  and  the  selection  of  such  a  point  re- 
quires but  a  knowledge  of  the  single  fact,  that  these  nations  in- 
variably winter  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  and  there 
prepare  all  their  buffalo  robes  for  trade.  These  robes  are  heavy, 
and,  to  the  Indian,  very  difficult  of  transportation.  Nothing  but 
necessity  induces  them  to  travel  any  great  distance  with  such  in- 
convenient baggage.  A  post,  therefore,  established  upon  the  head 
waters  of  the  Arkansas,  must  infallibly  secure  an  uncontested 
preference  over  that  of  the  Mexicans;  even  at  their  prices  and 
rates  of  barter.  Then  let  the  dragoons  occasionally  move  about 
among  these  people  in  large  parties,  impressing  them  with  the 
proper  estimate  of  our  power  to  protect  and  to  punish,  and  at 
once  we  have  complete  and  assured  security  for  all  citizens  whose 
enterprise  may  lead  them  beyond  the  border,  and  an  end  to  the 
outrages  and  depredations  which  now  dog  the  footsteps  of  the 
traveller,  in  the  prairies,  and  arrest  and  depress  the  most  advan- 
tageous commerce.  Such  a  post  need  not  be  stronger  than  fifty 
men ;  twenty-live  to  be  employed  as  hunters,  to  supply  the  garri- 
son, and  the  residue  as  a  defence  against  any  hostility.  Situated 
here  upon  the  good  lands  of  the  Arkansas,  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance of  timber,  while  it  might  be  kept  up  at  a  most  inconsider- 
able expense,  such  an  establishment  within  ninety  miles  of  Santa 
Fe  or  Taos  would  be  more  than  justified  by  the  other  and  more 
important  advantages  before  alluded  to,  leaving  the  protection  of 
the  trader."  with  the  Indian  tribes  entirely  out  of  the  question. 

"  lliis  great  trade,  carried  on  by  caravans  to  Santa  ¥i,  annually 
loads  one  hundred  wagons  with  merchandise,  which  is  bartered 
in  the  northern  provinces  or  Mexico  for  cash  and  for  beaver  furs. 
The  numerous  articles  excluded  as  contraband,  and  the  exorbitant 
duties  laid  upon  all  those  that  are  admitted  by  the  Mexican  gov- 
ernment, present  so  many  obstacles  to  commerce,  that  I  am  well 
persuaded,  that  if  a  post,  such  as  is  here  suggested,  should  be 
established  on  the  Arkansas,  it  would  become  the  place  of  de- 
posit, not  only  for  the  present  trade,  but  for  one  infinitely  more 
extended.  Here  the  Mexicans  might  purchase  their  supplies,  and 
might  well  afford  to  sell  them  at  prices  which  would  silence  all 
competition  from  any  other  quarter. 

"  These  two  trades,  with  the  Mexicans  and  the  Indians,  cen- 
tring at  this  post,  would  give  rise  to  a  large  village  of  traders 
and  laborers,  and  would  undoubtedly  be  hailed,  by  all  that  section 
of  country,  as  a  permanent  and  invaluable  advantage.  A  few 
pack-horses  would  carry  all  the  clothing  and  ammunition  neces- 
sary for  the  post  during  the  first  year,  and  two  light  field-pieces 
would  be  all  the  artillery  required  for  its  defence.  Afterwards, 
all  the  horses  required  for  the  use  of  the  establishment  might  be 
purchased  from  the  Mexicans  at  the  low  price  of  ten  dollars  each; 
and,  at  the  same  time,  whatever  animals  might  be  needed  to 
supply  the  losses  among  the  dragoons  traversing  the  neighbor- 
hood, could  be  readily  procured.  The  Upper  Missouri  Indians 
can  furnish  horses,  at  very  cheap  rates,  to  any  number  of  the 
same  troops  who  might  be  detailed  for  the  defence  of  the  northern 


:>/ 


488 


ASTORIA 


Rv  iia 


frontier;   and,  in  other  respects,  a  very  limited  outlay  of  money 
would  suffice  to  maintain  a  post  in  that  section  of  the  country. 

"  From  these  considerations,  and  my  own  personal  observation, 
I  am,  therefore,  disposed  to  believe,  that  two  posts  established  by 
the  government,  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  and 
one  on  the  Arkansas,  would  completely  protect  all  our  people  in 
every  section  of  the  great  wilderness  of  the  West;  while  other 
advantages,  at  least  with  regard  to  one  of  them,  confirm  and  urge 
the  suggestion.  A  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  garri- 
soned by  tifty  men,  would  be  perfectly  safe.  The  establishment 
might  be  constructed  simply  with  a  view  to  the  stores,  stables  for 
the  dragoons'  horses,  and  quarters  for  the  regular  garrison ;  the 
rest  being  provided  with  sheds  or  lodges,  erected  in  the  vicinity, 
for  their  residence  during  the  winter  months." 


THE  END 


•tj     .3 


of  money 
:ountry. 
bservation, 
iblished  by 
River,  and 
■  people  in 
?hile  other 
1  and  urge 
)ne,  garri- 
ablishment 
stables  for 
rison ;  the 
le  vicinity, 


